Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium (PRO/RTR)

[Monsterbrad]

Aluminum arms are nice!
Forget the servo saver on a truggy that will be no good.
I am running the Airtronics 94359 and like it alot.
Has enough torque and the speed is good
I run a JR 590 on the throttle in my one truggy and the pro-r gets the JR 9000s which is very fast.

[jmcn r]

thanks alot for the quick response MB!!
i am trying to buy every accessory i will want by tomorow so everything arrives one time and it will be ready for me when i next come up there.

have seen quite a few little odds and ends i want to buy and tryout. fuel line clips, servo connector clamps...many other minor little *** tats like that i want to pick up as well.


probably just get the Futaba servo arm, but not before i check out those hot JR units i keep hearing about. somebody else just reccomended i try them too.

have never really thought about not running a servo saver, lol....hmmm

[CRSMP5]

the servo saver is built into the bellcrank.. does not go on teh servo..

[Joe Tanto]

CRS what do you think about the STS engine 21, with turbo plug?

Joe F

[Monsterbrad]

Stay away from Turbo plugs for off road
they are not necessary
Stick with standard

[CRSMP5]

the one engine i had that used turbo plugs was not reliable.. it sucked.. my non turbo plug engines never let me down..

[Monsterbrad]

there are alot of engine's out there
don't go for a turbo head one
they suck
everybody that I have talked to does not like them.
The new 528X Novarossi engine has the turbo head

[Joe Tanto]

Thanks guys, definatly I wont buy one!!!!

[badboy2]

so a picco28 wont be a good choice?

[Monsterbrad]

They are ok cause picco are ok engine's.
I would go with the Novarossi 528x and the standard plug button insert.
They do have that engine that way looked into it.
Plus it's the most powerful engine on the market right now.
Other then that I would say the 3 or 5 port Novarossi are great engine's also.
I have had enough of the ready to run engine blues.
The only one I have seen to fairly well and survive the test of time is the Mach 26 but that takes some shimming to get it into this truggy stock but it can be done I have one in mine. with the roto start on it :)

[badboy2]

i might end up with collari32 not for my lsp but for either mgt or lst..

[badd_maxx.25]

whats a good stater box that can be used with the pro-r

[badboy2]

the ofna chrome top was their choice ..

[badd_maxx.25]

do you have a link or part #

[badboy2]

ofn10253 is the part number

[Monsterbrad]

FOR SALE
LOT OF LSP STUFF
2 truggies one pro run for 2 seasons just rebuilt
Brand new Pro-r never run has a bunch of Kingz Headz stuff on it
Pics will be available soon
let me know if any of you are interested
ExExCR@aol.com
I will have pics and prices very soon
Switching to buggy

[CRSMP5]

LOL... buggy.. *** brad.. thats not like you.. be honest.. you want teh 777 st..

[Monsterbrad]

I like the new 777
I have one of the buggies SP-1
Don't get me wrong the truck looks good but I am giving truggies a break for a while.
Going to try buggy

[badd_maxx.25]

will the stock flywheel work with the stater box or do i need a deffernt fly wheel

[Monsterbrad]

I don't think so
you will need a Mugen one but be careful when you put the Mugen one in there that it does not hit the brake screw that holds the pads on when you hit big jumps.
I Mine was actually hitting the ground.
You may be able to make the stock one work if you grind the chassis out around the fly wheel hole till it clears enough to hit the wheel on the box.
I have always used Roto start in my stuff.
Also
FOR SALE !
Completely decked out PRO-R
Roller as it comes new NEVER RAN AT ALL.
Has the new BCE chassis 7075
Custom arm stops
Kingz headz radio tray posts
Kingz Headz Duall front braces
Large Fuel tank (ofna violator) installed
this thing is ready for radio equiptment and engine.
Comes with all the pro-r goodies extra springs and things.
$525.00 this truggy is sweet
pics available
ExExCR@aol.com

[Monsterbrad]

another

[Monsterbrad]

chassis BCE 7075

[Joe Tanto]

I am going to start using a Starter box, do I have to change the fly wheel aswell, I am still using the one that came with the kit(Pro R).

Joe F

[CRSMP5]

no pro-r has cnc motor mounts that drop the engine.. no mods needed. stock flywheel works just fine..

[Monsterbrad]

U still may want to chamfer the edges around the fly wheel under the truck.
Just to keep it from tearing up the starter wheel.

[Joe Tanto]

Thanks CRS, at the moment my PR0 R is working brilliantly, I will be trying an STS 21 engine soon, and see how it goes.

Joe F

[badd_maxx.25]

thanks guys for the help.
how is the mach .28 non p/s engine

[CRSMP5]

brad it no hit with ofna crome top ;) with teh drop mounts..

no prob joe.. im glad she is workign for ya..

the mach 28 will most likely be a copy of the sh 28 and i think they did not use the good double bushed rod sh used on their 28 pro version.. so they will pop rods..

[Monsterbrad]

I have to say that after running the Mach's with the new rod that is not double bushed they run great.
They may not last that long I only have about a gallon through the one that is going to finish out the truggy race at Jefferson.
Point here is for the money and the power you can't go wrong.
The mach is a strong torque little engine that runs awesome.
I can't complain about the ones I run.
Truggy and LST had the LST out today and it's crazy powerful wheelies on Command.
For those guys looking to buy a new 777 truggy
There is a guy on ebay right now selling them
Bobc9473
He is cheaper then amain
and has good feed back 100%

[Joe Tanto]

Chris any views about the STS 21 engine, to put on my Truggy???

Joe F :)

[CRSMP5]

i have not seen one run.. the question is bottom end torque.. unless it has gobbs of it i would keep looking..

[Monsterbrad]

Get the Novarossi 528X
That will be pleanty of power for ya!

[CRSMP5]

heck.. brad sells his crap and no one posts.. LOL..

[Monsterbrad]

I see you noticed that CR
truggy racers I had way more people ask about it.
People want me to give them the ****
I am not giving away a brand new truck
SICK OF THAT
I'll keep it before I give it away
I really don't think 550 is too much for a brand new truck and the BCE chassis already installed ready to go

[Monsterbrad]

I don't think so
you will need a Mugen one but be careful when you put the Mugen one in there that it does not hit the brake screw that holds the pads on when you hit big jumps.
I Mine was actually hitting the ground.
You may be able to make the stock one work if you grind the chassis out around the fly wheel hole till it clears enough to hit the wheel on the box.
I have always used Roto start in my stuff.
Also
FOR SALE !
Completely decked out PRO-R
Roller as it comes new NEVER RAN AT ALL.
Has the new BCE chassis 7075
Custom arm stops
Kingz headz radio tray posts
Kingz Headz Duall front braces
Large Fuel tank (ofna violator) installed
this thing is ready for radio equiptment and engine.
Comes with all the pro-r goodies extra springs and things.
$525.00 this truggy is sweet
pics available
ExExCR@aol.com
Still for sale guys

[badboy2]

will u part some of it ?im interested on th etank and the KH radio tray posts..lmk if u part it out..

[Joe Tanto]

Hi I have my Pro R, and the chassis it is bumping alot to the ground, the track is dry and became more bumpy. What's the best thing I can do?

Joe F

[CRSMP5]

honestly.. its pretty common due to the whole low center of gravity.. you can try the blu esprings to see if it helps.. or more shock preload..

yea i did notice brad.. LOL.. but i made everyone go away due to tr.. LOL..

[Monsterbrad]

well its posted over there
I have been spending alot of time over there.
I likey! :D

[Monsterbrad]

Well the old LSP put the whooping on the new CRT tonight!
:D

[Joe Tanto]

Is there a new shock tower hop up for the Pro R? they told me it looks like of the CRT.......

Joe F

[CRSMP5]

the only new shock tower i know of on the market is the one BCE is workign on but has not finished up..

[Monsterbrad]

the pro r is on ebay
ITEM # 6050459273

[Joe Tanto]

hi guys I am heading for a CRT from Hongnor!!!!

Joe F

[CRSMP5]

ok... :(

[badd_maxx.25]

who makes some good hop up parts for the pro-r

[Joe Tanto]

ok... :(

hi CRS it seem's you dont like the idea!!!

sorry mate

joe F

[CRSMP5]

vertigo, bce, kmw, racers edge, king headz.. they all mak eparts for it..

well what is the jammin doing for you the lsp cannot is my only worry joe..

[Monsterbrad]

I have to say that after watching the Jammin truggy for 3 weeks now I am impressed. I just don't like there set up with the huge spur gear.
That's STUPID raises everything up too much in the center.
But it does run well.
But the bottom line is it's still OFNA and there Plastic is **** :rolleyes:

[CRSMP5]

brad.. you need to talk to scrappy.. he ran tripods truggy for a few tanks yesterday.. LOL.. lets just say.. i mentioned how your new pro-r has the bce chassis already.. LOL.. and he is lookign to sell off a few things which will let him buy one.. :)

[jmcn r]

LADIES AND GENTS...

do any of you happen to have some sort of a parts list that shows the sizes of the various screws on the LSP? specifically for the bolts for the engine mounts (the screws on the underside of the chassis).

maybe even a part number for those particular screws mentioned above? need to get working back on my LSP before i get depressed...holiday weekend is done so i need to go chop chop!

thanks :)

[702nitro]

If you go to This Link (http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/pdf_files/hotbodies.pdf), you'll find what you're looking for.

[jmcn r]

hehe thanks 702!! i was thinking of looking up that manual since i know it was scanned somewhere on TR. i had no idea though the Buggy manual is so much better than the truggy manual. lol.....why are we so neglected?

4x12 screw is what i am looking for :)
lol choice now is either just try find some basic screw packs for the areas i know i will need it from a place like Amain (they usually that kinda stuff) or just get a proper Tony setup :cool:

[702nitro]

Jmnc, you can go with the Dubro Hex Screws. They're very durable just like the Tony Screws. But the Tony's Screws are always a good bet. Everythings all organized in little teeny weeny zip bags and you'll have more than enough spares to last you for a very long time.

[jmcn r]

thanks again 702,
will figure out this evening if i just do the whole screw kit or pick out a few packs of the ones i want most of all so i can also have plenty of extras of them.

can't wait to get some little annoyances sorted out with my LSP and get going. next thing is to get rid of the last little bit of bind in the steering from the ackerman nut touching that pesky screw on the top of the radio plate.

[CRSMP5]

from tony you can buy like 20 for under $4 vs durbro 4 = 2$ LOL.. i would also get the ones for the bulks/center diffs too..

[badboy2]

do u know if any of the other truggies shocks works/fits on lsp?

[racer3]

ok so i am trying to decide what truggy i should get because i am going to step into the truggy class. i dont mind if it is a kit or rtr but i am really looking for the best racer for not a whole lot of cash. I was lookin at the jammin crt rtr. But i do like the lsp because it is a kit and has been out for a while so it has been revamped a couple times. I just basically want to know what is going to be better for some one who is just getting into truggies. I am not new to rc i have been in it for 6 years. Any help would be greatly apreciated.

[CRSMP5]

any buggy rear show will work ASLONG as you can use normal buggy springs.. MUST use the hb stadium blue, red, black as the others are not close to the right spring weight.. so if big bore will not fit the stock springs if you know what i mean.. the stock HB pro ones are top notch though.. no reason to replace them UNLESS its with a set of KMW threaded bodies :)

IMO i feel the lsp is a great truggy, cheap, does not break unless in the cold.. aka the plastic gets brittle..

[jmcn r]

from tony you can buy like 20 for under $4 vs durbro 4 = 2$ LOL.. i would also get the ones for the bulks/center diffs too..

thanks CR. from everything i have seen tonys stuff is the way to go without a second thought. i am finally getting around to ordering some, i have been a long believer that replacing most RCs stock screws is one of the first mods to do but thus far the couple cheap aluminum sets i have used were nothing to be happy with other than a bunch of spare crap.

i am going to order right now...just have to make some decisions. i am definatley getting a full set for the LSP....maybe for the Savages too. i don't mind the ones on the Savy from HPI...i don't think in the years i have owned my Savages i have stripped a stock screw. i have had a couple diff screws want to back out on me but thats it. i also broke a screw in the rear bumper...

so right now i am wondering if i should buy a couple types for the Savy rather than the full sets. LSP is a go for the set though....even though i had no problems with the LSP screws except for the crap that was in the linkages.

[CRSMP5]

i would buy extra bellcrank/roll bar screws, upgrade the engine mount screws to the $$ flanged cap head... the stock bulit/replacement bulit style engine mount screws suck.. the flanged ones will ast longer then all the other screws you buy.. and i use bell crank/roll bar ones in th eengine purple plates as i use them the most as i take them out 98% of the time over the engine mount ones... also buy 20 of the ones for diff cases.. those pan head screws are the most worn ones.. i got thru 1-2 sets a season.. once they feel alittle loose i toss them and replace them.. LOL..

[Monsterbrad]

ok so i am trying to decide what truggy i should get because i am going to step into the truggy class. i dont mind if it is a kit or rtr but i am really looking for the best racer for not a whole lot of cash. I was lookin at the jammin crt rtr. But i do like the lsp because it is a kit and has been out for a while so it has been revamped a couple times. I just basically want to know what is going to be better for some one who is just getting into truggies. I am not new to rc i have been in it for 6 years. Any help would be greatly apreciated.
Here is what I can say after racing the LSP for almost 2 years.
The truck is very solid and bang for your buck by far the best and most easy to set up out of any that I have seen.
Ofna is not in the question cause ofna's plastic is junk I don't care what anybody says, and there set up in the center diff is stupid!
The Kyosho truggy is awesome I like what I see but is very expensive.
Try the Hot Bodies I have a pro-r for sale look a few pages back and you will see the pics of it.You will be amazed at how well the truck drives and it does not have 40 different set up options like Kyosho does.
Good luck with your decision but I would say get the LSP pro or PRO-R
to start with.

[Pat Fierle]

Thank you very much, I am for sure getting either the crt rtr or pro r. Car action gave the crt rtr a GREAT review. I just wish they would have tested the pro r. Thanks again. ohh and sry this is under a diff user name but i have a diff user name on my other comp.

[CRSMP5]

rc driver did a review of the pro last year..

all i can say is for the money.. the pro-r is the way to go.. i would say go look at a certin forum.. see what others say on the crt rtr vs its pro version then decide if its worth it.. but then id get in trouble by those who yell when i post my photos..

[Monsterbrad]

I am not going to take anything away from the CRT but I don't like what I have seen.
The LSP and the STR are going to be the truggies in my mind
but on the national level its going to be the
STR
CRT
new mugen long arm truggy

[Ball Racing]

Brad ,that center diff being up 8 mm higer only makes the truck as bad as the driver, and Mugen does it.
So does X-Ray..

If "I" was so good of a driver that I could "honestly" say -you know this truck just doesn't drive right ,,, I think it's diameter of the spur gear- I might have one of those trophies from the worlds..

[badboy2]

does kyosho have 2 truggies on the market?i thot it was only the green one..i saw one with a yellow and black body for $339 nib it says readyset truck..is that a good truggy also ?

[Ball Racing]

ready sets are ready to run which has less "pro" pieces..
and isn't the ready set based on the 7.5 and not the 777

[CRSMP5]

correct.. 2 versions.. ready set based on the 7.5 and the kit based on the 777

[Monsterbrad]

Brad ,that center diff being up 8 mm higer only makes the truck as bad as the driver, and Mugen does it.
So does X-Ray..

If "I" was so good of a driver that I could "honestly" say -you know this truck just doesn't drive right ,,, I think it's diameter of the spur gear- I might have one of those trophies from the worlds..
I did not say that it was not a worthy truggy
I was saying that I don't like that set up.
LSP and STR are not like that.

[Ball Racing]

I know you didn't say it wasn't worthy, I'm just stating that I think you would have to be a "world" class driver to notice what size the spur gear was if you didn't see it before you drove it.

[Monsterbrad]

I am world class :D
Ok so maybe not
any ways
yes I am going to agree that 95% is driver the rest is truck or car!

[Monsterbrad]

WOW
that's all I can say about this forum

[Ball Racing]

Oh, come on Brad, remeber when=

But as was mentioned before that I have a tendency to jump the band wagon I refuse to give up on the Hot Bodies LSP.
It is here to stay and the pro will be ordered here in a month or so.
But in saying all that watch out for the Mayhem with a good driver like today they are a pretty good running truggy.

[CRSMP5]

Roflao...

[GasGod]

Anyone know if the front cvd,s are a drop in for the LSP?? I want to convert to 17mm and am on a budget.I heard somewhere that they fit without any mods-- :confused:

[Monsterbrad]

Cr will know that answer!
Guys My Brand new Pro-R is waiting an engine and radio gear :D

[CRSMP5]

thats the expensive budget way of doing it... LOL..

i hear people say they fit with no issues.. but the hellcrap i had, the joint section is further back then stock lsp, so IMO you will loose turning as the joint will be much closer to the c hub..

if you wanna do it cheap.. set of hb buggy rear stubs for the back, like 8
sporterks stubs, like 6 a pair for the cvds
then set of hb 17mm hexes, pins, set screws for the buggy

now if you want long life.. set of kmw stubs for 20 a pair.. the sportwerks work.. just not hardened and i have seen 1 photo of a broken 1..

this all is listed on the place im not allowed to mention as the ******** who run this board bitch when i post a link..

[GasGod]

Thanx-- so the front stubs from the mayhem will work with the lsps front bones?I already run a mayhem buggy--- :D well i used to-- its on the shelf now- I am addicted to truggys-- :eek: The .26 from it is now in my LSP--lol

[badboy2]

chris i cant log on to your site..is there a problem with it?its 10AM et.. its just trying to load but wont load up..

[badboy2]

its working now its just shows a different web addres it doesnt show the name of the site..

[CRSMP5]

i had server issues yesterday morning... somethign crashed somewhere.. was off line from 2am till like 10:30a est..

[Monsterbrad]

CR the site looks good
I would mention the name but I don't want you to get into trouble

[CRSMP5]

well 8 more days.. hopefully K&B opening day.. :P your stuff ready? it looks like im headed to browns sunday.. i need som epractice time.. june 10th is almost here.. wanna be ready fro mi pro series again..

[Monsterbrad]

Well after today
:D
I am ready
Can't wait to see what you think CR
K&B next weekend

[CRSMP5]

http://i67.photobucket.com/albums/h287/chim13/cc314a616b16.jpg

wow my track idea made it brad.. LOL.. this will be a hell of a fun weekend.. only 6 more days..

[Monsterbrad]

I am not a fan of the loop at all
we'll see how it goes
my stuff is ready :D

[CRSMP5]

you meant your kyosho.. should have brought the good truck out.. LOL..

well it was a great day brad.. i hope you decide to come back out.. theedog blew his kyosho ring/pinions today and bent only 2 cvds all day..

sunday is my last k&b day till july.. mi is commin, i need to do crcrc, i need to do ky, i need to do ny.. LOL.. ill probally hit k&b the week before the tripple crown, tripple crown weekend and continue the truggyracers.com track tour... LOL..

[auto2]

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/autoauto2/DSC04444.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/autoauto2/DSC04443.jpg

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y293/autoauto2/DSC04442.jpg

what do you think?

[Monsterbrad]

thats cool how fast is it???
CR I will be back with my Pro-R
the Kyosho will be for sale
Working on the LSP today and this week to get it ready
I have to say that I am very dissapointed in the Kyosho STR.
I may not be giving it a chance but the LSP is just way too realiable to not run it.

[Ball Racing]

I have to say that I am very dissapointed in the Kyosho STR

Well I have to admit I am tired of the sloppy handling of the LSP.
Its a great truck don't get me wrong but man is it sloppy. :D

Brad, you need to find a story to stick too :) :D

[Monsterbrad]

The LSP is sloppy
But I am used to it and the STR is a good truck just has too many issues that need to be worked out the LSP is all ready worked out
Mine is ready for the track again
new LSP Pro-R
BCE chassis and some other goodies

[CRSMP5]

shims fix sloppy.. LOL..

im ready for sunday..

[CRSMP5]

thats a neet brushless too.. i have alot of photos from someone else on my server..

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/pre_10_05/electric/

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/pre_10_05/electric/15.JPG
just for a taste.. above is the directory of photos i have of it..

[Ball Racing]

Wow ,all that money for brushless, and still use the factory radio?

[CRSMP5]

LOL.. yea the guy spent alot on makign it.. it was more of a project aka can it be done things.. they did great..

[Monsterbrad]

I can see the future in RC is going to be very interesting.
brushless is changing everything for the Nitro guys!
Buy one motor and one good lipo battery and you can run for a 1/2 hr on one charge.
That is awesome and no tuning smoke or anything like that.
NITRO out doors
ELECTRIC Indoors

[drummin82]

I recently bought a mach 28 because the hobby shop guy told me it would fit in the lsp. Now I'm finding the mounts aren't wide enough. After searching this thread I see that others have made it fit but am confused on what all I actually need to make it work. Can anyone point me in the right direction please? Thanks

Edit...I found post 788 and think I ordered everything that I needed. I bought the following:

148191 XTM backplate with one way bearing
148188 XTM pull start assemblie
148214 XTM pullstart cushion spring
148210 xtm shaft for pull start engines

Is this all that I need? Or did I miss something?

I saw that someone said that the stock roto start will fit this backplate. Do I just screw it on and it works? I'm pretty new to this so sorry for any dumb questions.

[CRSMP5]

you could have bought a xtm kit aka backplate, screws, 1 way, shaft for 19ish, pullstart comes with the spring.. but yep looks like it..

! THING YOU HAVE TO DO... the 28's piston is bigger diameter.. you will have to work on the top of the new backplate to miss the piston skirt with a dremal.. just compair what comes off it, mod the new one into the same shape ;)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

hey guys, i wanted to share my new skin with you guys, it was done by thunder design by thunder wessel..i think he did a very nice job. the paint scheme basicly had no errors and i backed the paint with some aluminum tape. looks great i think.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/noximus/trackLSP.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/noximus/JesseM1.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v679/noximus/trackLSP001.jpg

[CRSMP5]

i am waiting on my 2 RC Body Works bodies to show up.. shoudl be here tomarrow.. :)

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/rcbodyworks/r1_lsp/demo/cf3%20001.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/rcbodyworks/r1_lsp/demo/cf3%20003.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/rcbodyworks/r1_lsp/demo/cf3%20005.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/rcbodyworks/r1_lsp/demo/cf3%20008.jpg

we know where the info is.. LOL.. their webpage will be up on july 1st.. cost is 30+8 in shipping, he can ship multi ones for same fee though till like 4/5

i gave 2 away this past weekend at the mi rc pro series races as door prizes :) everyone who saw the clear ones loved them..

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

i like the body you got CRSMP5, i like how the engine has lots of breathing room, the thing is, its open in the back not the front, which is cool i guess, so no dirt can hit the engine but remain cool.

considering its only 6 dollars more than a jconcepts body shipped, that might be the ideal body to get.

[CRSMP5]

i was thinking of if i spent some time with scrap lexan, the tanks splash gaurd.. doing a hole in the windshiled direct it to the engine via the splash guard.. walla.. straight thru air flow.. :) then a set of smaller hoels onthe other side for the air filter

ill be checking my po today.. should have my clear ones those were his demo photos of a painted one, and ill be workign on mine this week.. the ones i received last week were sponsor fees and given up for door prizes at the mi rc pro series round 2 this past weekend.. :D gives a oppertunity for others to see his work and all.. what i try to do with all my mfg sponsors is give their stuff away for others to play with.. the feedback that was received was sooooo good he got a major boost.. :D

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

that would be pretty cool, a ram air system lol i did notice my engine ran better when i cut out the whole front window in comparison to some small hole. when you get er done, post it if you can, will be cool to try it myself. :D

[CRSMP5]

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/inital/1.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/inital/2.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/inital/3.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/inital/4.jpg


the body mount holes have dimples so i used them.. i took the wing off to fit it by the way.. made it easier..

lots of room around the pipe :) i might have to so stone gaurds now.. :D

the scoop aroudn the engine head is semi tricky to use a dremal on, but it can be done.. just take your time..

the front end allows you to keep the stock lights on the bumper :D the lexan goes between them and the bumper so if you like your lights for other bodies they do not have to be removed..

the lines fo rcutting it out are a little difficult.. use a marker to mark it out to cut, this is a good thing though.. you could eliminate the wheel arches and stuff for a different look

now time to think of a paint scheme :D

ill be working on the shield after the liquid mask drys up.. ;) but the rear section that comes with the body that you cut off is big enough to make it from :D

[CRSMP5]

man i need to clean my truck.. LOL.. mi dirt.. full of sand..

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/shield/1.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/shield/2.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/shield/3.jpg

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

ahh ok. thats a good idea, i will do that on my next body. thanks for the pictures.

[CRSMP5]

the roof line of the R1 is lower then the LSP stock.. also the windshiled is further forward.. so the lexan fits with the stock body no problem ;)

[CRSMP5]

cannot beleive i dont have a single truggyracers sticker.. LOL.. i must fix that..

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/1st/1.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/1st/2.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/1st/3.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/1st/4.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/1st/5.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/1st/6.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/1st/7.jpg

wanted the effect of the lines it has to show.. its a simple paint job.. looks great fits very well.. :D my 2nd one though will be the show piece/big race body

[auto2]

what is the difference between the aluminum arms and the plastic ones? weight wise. do the plastic ones hold up about equal to any other brand buggy arm?

[CRSMP5]

the plastic arms bend like rubber when in sunlight...

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/1.jpg


tomarrow daylight photos.. LOL..

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/2.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/3.jpg

my 2nd RC Body Works R1 for LSP..

[badboy2]

the plastic ones tends to bend..wiegth wise i guess theres not much of a difference..

[auto2]

Ok I certanilly dont want rubber bands holding my wheels to the chassis. lol!
%90 chance of heavy rain today.YUCK!!

[CRSMP5]

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/4.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/5.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/6.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/7.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/rcbodyworks/2nd/8.jpg

pic of plastic arms..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/sutman/Picture035.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/sutman/picture137.jpg

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

ewww weee

plastic arms on truggy's arent a great idea i think. its not like buggy arms to where they arent lengthened..longer in length> the more it will lose its Tensile strength, Impact resistance, Fatigue...

http://www.sdplastics.com/plasfig22.gif

from what i can see, it looks like most manufacturers use the same grade of plastic they use on their buggy's to their truggy's...i cant say thats true for ALL, but it does look that way and you will have to consider..cost.

they would need to strengthen their material to compensate for the increase in length to provide as much strength as seen in most buggy's.

look at MT's, their arms arent as long.... and as we already know, the same for buggy's. Aluminum seems to be ideal, but however, it would be great if the manufacturer would just compensate.

and then like what was mentioned above, environment comes into play...

after looking at some of the newer truggies hitting the scene, you have to consider what they have done to compensate. HB just did it easy...Aluminum .

[CRSMP5]

i know what ya mean.. one fo my fellow racers got a kyosho st-r.. he had no issues when it was cool out fo rindoor season, his 1st 2 days out side though was bendign cvds like wet noodles.. these 2 days were bery very hott.. the 3rd time out was a cool day again no issue.. your right.. they need a much more solid plastic, one with more "glass" in it due to the added length..

just rember boys.. when your "wrench or rachet" will not break loose a rusty bolt what do ya do??? grab the cheater pipe to help break it free... LOL.. same effect on th eplastic arms..

yep hb did cheat.. aluminum was avaliable 1st.. then plastic.. rember the pro version came out 1st..

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

have you seen pictures of the new mugen truggy? one thing i noticed, its arms arent as wide as most other truggys, they look slim and long..

[CRSMP5]

not yet.. i think they have a reason for that.. tony of tony's screws was discussing it on my board..

[Ball Racing]

You should see a Mammoth st arms on a 100 degree day , (the whole truck for that matter) TAFFY. Including the plastic arm of the stock servo saver .

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

not yet.. i think they have a reason for that.. tony of tony's screws was discussing it on my board..

im wondering whats their reasoning for it.

[balang_479]

Yeah plastic arms which are long are not good for racing or bashing, when racing they will flex a considerable amount and give inconsistent damping and make the car more unstable and there is more weight tranfer, when bashing the arms will brake more easily basically

[CRSMP5]

i cannot say i have ever seen a broken plastic lsp arm.. they flex too much to break..

[jamesbernatchez]

Hey guys,

Look what im getting. Ive always wanted a truggy. I should have it by saturday at the latest. I cant wait!!!!

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=221824

[CRSMP5]

get rid of the 23mm wheels.. you will have all kinds of issues..

they break stubaxels very easy.. also 40 series really ruins how it turns..

[jamesbernatchez]

i did just read that in this forum. i probably will do just that.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

yea i agree with CRSMP5, those 23mm hubs do more bad than good. go with 17mm. also, i suggest to add on STR ball ends, with this, you can run zero offset without any issues. i have tried them and its awesome, cheap and easy to do. here are the part numbers

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_246/products_id/6047

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_246/products_id/4021

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_246/products_id/4017

[jamesbernatchez]

cool thanks. any idea where to get the hubs and such to convert to 17mm?

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

here are the parts i used to change over,

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=SWK3177&x=81&y=11

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=LOSB3502&x=86&y=11

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=LOSB3505&x=93&y=7

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/32/products_id/2717

http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=HBSC8096&x=60&y=8

i added CVD's all around and got rid of the rear dog bones. you can save allot of money if you reuse your drive shafts in the front and use the old set screw/pin from your old CVD's..

[CRSMP5]

i suggest 2 sets of these over the sportwerks ones..
http://www.kmwracing.com/cart/product.php?productid=16153&cat=258&page=1

they are hardened, include the pins, aka his last link and set screws which he did not list.. :)

[jamesbernatchez]

so all i would need are those 8mm axles and the hubs right?

On another note i bought the truck today. It is sweeeeeet. Ill have some pics up soon!

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

i ordered a set of those KMW stub axels..they look nice, but i have used both and i honestly cannot tell the difference between the two and both have yet to break on me. but it wouldnt hurt to spend an extra 20 dollars or so, also like what was said, the KMW axels come with set screws. i already have a kyosho screw kit which came with set screws and so on..so i forgot to add.

[jamesbernatchez]

All right, i have hexes off an old buggy. either the gs storm or a kyosho 7.5, i cant remember. all i would need are the stub axels with set screws. Right? which monster truck rims fit these. sorry for the seemingly stupid questions. :)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

yea, you can salvage everything else and just buy the KMW axels.

if you are going to apply those STR steering ball ends, then i suggest to buy these rims which have worked very well for me and i am eating up the corners considering they are zero offset:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/26_57/products_id/6939

now if you dont want to install those STR ball ends, then i suggest to buy these:

http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/26_57/products_id/4415

if you are going to run the 23mm offset OFNA rims, then i suggest to increase your steering throw.

regardless its a good idea to dremel your C-hubs if it wasnt already done to your kit, it will help prevent you from breaking them and it will allow you to gain more steering.

[jamesbernatchez]

cool thanks im gonna look into the proline truggy rims. any normal mt tire will fit those right?

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

cool thanks im gonna look into the proline truggy rims. any normal mt tire will fit those right?

yea, but you will want to see what fits your track conditions. like for instance, at sun valley, i noticed my crimefighter MT's worked great, as for my local track conditions, my Bowtie MT's worked great. i suggest to try and find out what everybody else is running before you mount up.

i forgot to add, remember, if you are going to run zero offset (proline rims suggested) you will need to run the STR ball ends, but if you arent running the STR ball ends, then buy the OFNA rims. the 23mm offset clears the ball ends and so will the zero offset if you do what was mentioned before.

and remember to adjust your camber/toe once you add on those STR ball ends.

[jamesbernatchez]

i think bow ties are really hookin up at my track. thanks Jimmy and crsmp5 for all the help so far :)

[CRSMP5]

wow.. i missed out lastnight.. LOL..

looks good.. it also looks like jim' spent lots of reserch time.. i really need to try the kyosho ball end thing.. you need the kyosho balls too as the stock balls are tight..

ive had a set of kyosho 0 offset wheels in orange ive wanted to try.. but need that mod 1st to see if i can keep full steering.. mine with the 28mm off set jammin or ttr offset has so much steering..

Jim's list is for cvds on all 4.. if your not adding cvds to the rear.. you need a pair of the HB buggy rear stubs, like 7$ from horizon, amain really needs to get some in stock.. LOL..

the kyosho hexes will also need the hole opened up to 3mm for the pin... its a different size on jammin, kyosho, hb/hpi/gs but all fit the 8mm axel..

Jim the differance in sportwerks vs KMW is simple.. as the sportwerks will wear where the cvd rebuild kit goes, wearing the pin and the hole in the stub, Pop's aka KMW hardeed ones should not wear and just wear said pin.. :D after 3 sets of worn sportwerks ones.. KMW is the better deal as it has the set screws and drive pins.. :D someone also posted a pic of a broken sportwerks one..

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

well then i am glad i brought myself some KMW axels then!! i will take out my sportwerks ones and throw in my KMW ones up front.

CR is right as well as buying the kyosho balls to go into the STR ball ends. which is why i included them in the list of part numbers. i too tried using the stock ones, they fit tight, i worked them in a bit, but when i just brought me a set of kyosho 6.8mm balls, its a match made in heaven! lol

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

ive had a set of kyosho 0 offset wheels in orange ive wanted to try.. but need that mod 1st to see if i can keep full steering.. mine with the 28mm off set jammin or ttr offset has so much steering..

i tried the OFNA 28mm offset, they dont have as much as when i run zero offset.

i had to get a longer servo horn and dremel out my C-hubs even more to come close running zero offset rims along with a regular sized servo arm. also, when you run longer servo arms, especially aluminum ones, they tend to add allot of stress to your servos. i wont go back to 23mm offset, you dont need as much steering throw when you run zero offset. i increased my lap times ever since i switched.

also, i wouldnt run the kyosho or ST1 stock rims, they crack easily. i had waayyy better luck running the proline zero offset rims, they hold up great.

[jamesbernatchez]

Im gonna list everything i think i need to convert to 17mm. Please let me know if there is anything else that i would need if im forgeting something in this list :)

From what i understand...i can use the driveshafts that are on the LSP-R right? I dont need to get the LST ones....??

So i would only need:

KY0IS053 - Kyosho 6.8mm ball end offset (8)
KY0W0202 - Kyosho 6.8mm steel balls (10)
KY0W0141V -Kyosho 3x6mm taperd washers (10) what are these for??
HBSC8040-2 -Hot Bodies 6.7mm Purple 17mm hex wheel adaptor (2) need 2 sets
HBSC8096 -Hot Bodies 3x17mm wheel adaptor shafts (4)
????????? -KMW Hot Bodies axle upgrades (2) need 2
LOSB3505 -Team Losi CV Driveshaft Rebuild Set: LST (2) need 2
PRO269004 -Proline 1/8 17mm Truggy rims standard offset (0mm) (2) need 2

And whatever tires i decide to mount. Is that everything??? So i can convert my LSP to 17mm with everything here? Please let me know if something was left out as im gonna purchase everything from a master list so i am not forgeting anything. I hopefully will be buying it all within the next few days depending on how quick i get an answer. Thanks Guys :)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

the stock truck uses 14mm hex wheel hubs. is that the same as the tmaxx and revo? couldnt i just get the 14mm hex wheel hubs(part # c8171), take off the 23mm hubs and put the 14mm on and run the proline bow ties mounted on proline velocity rims that i was using for my revo? or is it more complicated. i just want to know if its possible. thanks i will get the 17mm conversion in the next few weeks but i want to run it now and i would be able to just buy the $7 part and run rims i already have. then i can sell teh 23mm and with the cash convert to 17mm.

you can run 14mm on the LSP, in fact it comes stock with 14mm. the reason why i like the STR ball ends, cause you will be able to run either 14mm rims or 17mm rims at zero offset and still will not have any rubbing issues.

as for the 23mm offset idea, you are stuck with that as your only option,. as others have tried adapters and such. if i was you, to save yourself some money, i would just buy the STR ball ends and the needed balls to insert into the ball ends, run the 14mm tires/rims till you got enough funds for the complete 17mm conversion.

i think it was 5.99 for the ball ends, 8.99 for the balls...thats 15 bucks...UNLESS the 14mm rims you ahve already are offset rims. then they will clear your ball ends regardless. but you wont have near as much steering as you would with zero offset.

hope that helps some. but thats what i would do.

forgot to add, yes the Tmaxx/revo does have 14mm sized hubs.

[jamesbernatchez]

Jimmy see my post above and let me know if thats everything. Thanks :)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

ok, i will ist it for you:

you will need one order of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/products_id/6047

need one order of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_246/products_id/4021

need one order of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/25_246/products_id/4017

that will cover your STR ball end conversion...and the reason why you need the tapered washers, its to place them underneath the ball end to get a nice even flushed mount into your steering knuckle. if you need more info, i can take a pic for you.

here is the list for a complete 17mm conversion for CVD's all around:

you will need to order 2 of these:
http://www.kmwracing.com/cart/product.php?productid=16153&cat=0&page=1

two of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=LOSB3502&x=86&y=11

two of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=LOSB3505&x=93&y=7

two of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/manufacturers_id/32/products_id/2717

and you will need two of these:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php/cPath/26_57/products_id/6939

now, if you already have the hex wheel adapters from another kit, you will not need those, if you can salvage your old CVD shafts and pin and set screw, you will not need to buy another set. the LST drive shafts just seemed to be more durable than the stock ones.

what you can do is order one set of the LST shafts and use the stock shafts for the rear.

[jamesbernatchez]

Thanks Jimmy thats awesome. are you only using the LST driveshafts because they seem more durable. If i was really scraping money i could just use the stock ones all the way around though right?

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Thanks Jimmy thats awesome. are you only using the LST driveshafts because they seem more durable. If i was really scraping money i could just use the stock ones all the way around though right?

yea, you can, but the thing is, the LSP doesnt come with CVD's in the rear, so you will still need to buy another set of shafts regardless, unless the kit comes with CVD's in the rear already, and you can save some cash for sure.

also, like i said before, i have used the sportwerks axels with zero issues, and they are allot more cheaper than the KMW axels. if they break on you, then by then i am sure you will have the 19 bucks to buy a more durable set, but i have been to some hard tracks out on the west coast, and i ran both, both have yet to break on me. you will save money if you went with the sportwerks axels.

here is the part number for those:
http://www.amainhobbies.com/advanced_search_result.php?search_in_description=1&keywords=SWK3177&x=81&y=11

BUT if you get those, then you will have to buy set screws and pins, but if you already have the ones from your other kit, you should be good to go.

[jamesbernatchez]

Im just gonna go with the KMW ones. I didnt even realize the LSP had dogbones in the rear. Ill def. get a set of the LST ones. Maybe 2 just to have incase. I just put up the proline 23mm setup for sale so if i can sell that then that will help me get the 17mm conversion. It'll cost around $170 for the whole setup including rims and tires. Kinda steep but id rather do that then put stress on the axles. And the fact that with the 17mm setup it will be a bit lighter and should be able to turn better too. It proably helps that i have the airtronics 200oz .10 transit time steering servo :)

Thanks so much for your help. ill post up pics when i get it all set up. I think ill order an extra steering ackerman to as i heard to double up so its a little more beefier.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

doubling up your steering ackerman is a great idea. i have done that as well. works great.

170 dollars?? wow i guess you are right if you include the KMW axels, the LST shafts, ball ends, tires/rims and everything else you will be buying new right off the bat.

i guess mine was cheaper cause i didnt buy everything all at once, but i am sure i probably paid the same amount...if not more considering LOL

[jamesbernatchez]

well im hoping to offset the cost by selling the 23mm stuff.

[CRSMP5]

selling 23mm stuff sux as no one is buying it lately.. LOL..

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

selling 23mm stuff sux as no one is buying it lately.. LOL..

yeup..im on your page man.

[CRSMP5]

some action shots :D

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/9.jpg
yep it landed real bad.. LOL..

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/13.jpg
sadly the new crimefighters that i picked up "used with 2 stage foams, balanced but on jammin yellow wheels" trust me when i say i stole them.. LOL..do not match my paint scheme :( though..

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/15.jpg
how i got a still shot is not known to me

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/27.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/33.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/41.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/43.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/Deanos_07_08_06/54.jpg

this is from my weekend in KY aka this past weekend at Deano's rc raceway..

[jamesbernatchez]

well---im having problems with the clutch slipping. its a werks racing clutch. i put the first 5 tanks through it and when i try to go i have to rev almost full thottle to get it to move...and i know thats not good. what clutch do u reccomend. i have it for sale or trade right now just because its pissing me off LOL if i get a clutch soon ill just keep it! I can tell it will be nuts if the clutch didnt slip and im only on tank 5!!

[CRSMP5]

yea i saw that you were having issues with that.. sadly it is #1 reason why i stick to my clutch set up..

there are lots fo things that can be causing the issue..
1.) id of the cb is too big
2.) have too much spring tension
3.) spring can be too strong

with the picco.. i would use mugen composites, 0.9mm springs its what i am using with success on the 28s.. i get months of life.. if i goto a 1.0mm spring i get maybe 1 weekend.. took me a while to find the right spring..

[jamesbernatchez]

i tightend the tension nut so if that doesnt work then ill try your setup. What flywheel are you using? thanks cr!

[badboy2]

man mine goes quicker now with mugen springs and i just put the ofna shoes and idk which flywheel im using its just a random flywheel i got in my tool box..

[CRSMP5]

the stock hb flywheel, mugen mbx 4 or 5, hpi savage 3 shoe, hellcrap, are all ones i know will work..

[jamesbernatchez]

well tightening the nut did nothing for the werks clutch. im just gonna get a normal clutch for now. i just got a 9.5 and heli today. the heli is great but in a crash i lost 2 main bearings so i need to order them. when i went to get the 9.5 going i hooked up the batt to the switch that was installed on the buggy, pluged it into my specktrum that i use in my revo and poof!!!! the reciever went up in smoke and the inside was glowing red hot!!! now im down one receiver :mad: on top of that i was gonna take the clutch out of the buggy and put it on the lsp and when i took the clutch bell off the clutch shoes were in pieces :eek: . its days like these that make me want to sell everything!!! sorry for the rant but im not in the best mood right now!

[badboy2]

man we have the same luck...i took out 2 of my wasps to put it on my twin titan and guess what no matter how i pull the carb off on 1 engine it wont go off, its so tight..im using a s25 carb on one of my wasp26 but since i converted my sav to electric i was gonna use engine but some reason it just turns but i cant take it off..im pissed too..

[CRSMP5]

make sure the retaining bolt/pinch sleve is loose from the carb.. they will stick at times and need a light tap to break them free.. the s-25 carb sounds to have broken free on the metal ring to plastic too which is why it turns but no come out.. will need to replace it..

that sux on the 9.5... but ofna.. gotta love it.. LOL..

[jamesbernatchez]

o yeah, i loosened the nut so well see if that works tonight after work!

[jamesbernatchez]

I got the clutch working....sort of! it was working for almost a full tank and towards the end it seems like its slipping again. Im gonna take off the clutch to check it out. Any idea as the needle settings as they come from the factory on a werks picco .27? i cant keep it running and being stupid, i adjusted the low and high speed needles all over the place. its not running over 230 but i cant keep it running for over 30 sec. or so. it'll idle for a bit and go and then when i stop it will shut off or when i let off the throttle it will stall. factory settings would be o so helpful :)

Thanks
James

[Ball Racing]

If you tighten the spring too much or if the low needle is rich a werks clutch does not engage fast.
The tune of the motor is critical to fast engagment on this clutch, but the same is true with all clutches, just this clutch lets you know the prob...

Also this werks clutch expands forward to let the shoes come out of the cone,
if you don't shim the clutch properly, from the bearing that rest against the flywheel its possible for the front of the pressure plate to "rub" the clutch bell inside face(look for the anodizing to be wore on the pressure plate.

Also check how many threads you see with the nut tightned down,
I use the medium spring, and look for one or so threads and start from there.

Which shoes are you using? The pinkish ones are rulon , and hook the hardest, then carbon blacks medium hook, then the white teflon- slips for low traction tracks..

And when you lossen or tighten the nut it takes more than a half or one turn to make a difference if it's not doing right,
If it's a newere werks with the nut ring that has the notch for external adjustment,
Take a diamond bit in the dremel, cut a hole in your bell, and you can adjust this clutch in seconds...

[jamesbernatchez]

im not worried about the clutch at the moment anymore. im trying to find the stock settings on the motor because its not consistant right now. i know it has to do with me messing with the low and high when i never should have touched the low to begin with. i just want to go back to stock to start again.

Thanks for the help so far everyone.

[Ball Racing]

Do the pinch test for the low needle.
Stock settings are out the window once you break it in, because each day,
altitude,
humidty,
barmeter readings,
tuned pipe,
fuel type,
clutch settings,
will decide where the low needle should be.

[jamesbernatchez]

well i got a mugen clutch with mugen aluminum shoes and 1.1mm springs. that is what someone reccommended at the track.

i tried using an 1/8 scale axle from a 9.5 and when all put together with the driveshaft its.....too long!!! it doesnt fit??!?! Nothing is going right for me. I bought ofna 17mm 28mm offset rims and tires for the conversion and was planning on using it tomorrow. looks like ill have to keep the 23mm proline setup on until i figure it out.

[badboy2]

make sure the retaining bolt/pinch sleve is loose from the carb.. they will stick at times and need a light tap to break them free.. the s-25 carb sounds to have broken free on the metal ring to plastic too which is why it turns but no come out.. will need to replace it..

that sux on the 9.5... but ofna.. gotta love it.. LOL..


any ideas which carb fits?aside from stock?

[jamesbernatchez]

Well guys i did it.... i ordered all this. Hopefully will have it for next weekend!! I hope it all goes together fine. I tried using axles from an Ofna 9.5 with the stock front cv driveshafts and it was too long and would bind. Plus i couldnt screw the c-hub back in place casue it wasnt lining up with the holes. Here is everything i got.

2x Hot Bodies 6.7mm Hex Wheel Adapter Purple(2)
1x Hot Bodies 7075 3mm Steering Ackerman Purple(so i can double up)
1x 3x17mm Hot Bodies Wheel Adapter shafts(4)
1x Kyosho 3x6mm Blue aluminum tapered washers(10)
1x Kyosho 6.8mm Steel Balls(10)
3x Sportwerks F/R CVD axles(2) i got 3 to have a few spares
2x Team Losi F/R driveshaft: LST(2) i figured ill do it all the way around and save the stock ones as spares.
2x Team Losi CV driveshaft rebuild set: LST
1x Kyosho 6.8mm ball end offset(8)
1x Sportwerks clutch shim bag to shim my clutchs right

I got it all for $96 shipped 2-3 day! Plus i just spent $200 at the lhs on ofna truggy rims, proline crimefighers, 1400mah hump pack, .21 airfilter, all the clutch parts, and 2 glow plugs.

Let me know if i forgot something :) Thanks

Hoping to get the motor running tomorrow. I bought a mugen flywheel, aluminum shoes, 13t mugen clutch bell, and 1.1mm springs(this is what one of the guys there recommended there) hopefully this works, i guess ill find out tomorrow!

[CRSMP5]

looks good sir.. hop eyou have a few set screws though ;)

also aluminum shoes, 1.1 prings, picco.. i think after the 1st race day you will find the springs to break on you.. try a set of .9 springs and composite shoes.. i think you will find clutch bearing life, shoe life, and spring life to be much better..

[jamesbernatchez]

looks good sir.. hop eyou have a few set screws though ;)

also aluminum shoes, 1.1 prings, picco.. i think after the 1st race day you will find the springs to break on you.. try a set of .9 springs and composite shoes.. i think you will find clutch bearing life, shoe life, and spring life to be much better..

yep i got some set screws laying around. if i have problems with the clutch..ill switch to the 0.9mm springs with composite shoes. I have composite shoes with springs from a mugen mbx5..just not sure which springs they are.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

I got it all for $96 shipped

thats not bad at all, also you could have probably saved another 30 to 40 dollars if you would have only went with CVD's up front. you have to consider, for somebody who will pay 400 dollars for the LSP-R brand new and then spend the 96 dollars (596 total) be more durable, stable and if you hit a dremel to the C-hub, you can very well have more turning radius than the CRT with your zero offset.

the CRT costs around 569 brand new, but then you still have to buy the steering ball ends to run zero offset AND you have to cut the rims at the same time. even then, the CRT chassis is too wide to compensate JMHO. you can get them dialed for sure with minor upgrades but i dont see them being the most cost effective. the STR is 640 dollars right off the bat, so honestly, the LSP-R is the most cost effective truggy on the market i think personally.

can it perform as well as the STR? i think it comes close, but on certain tracks the STR will eat the CRT and the LSP, but in some cases, it can be nimble in certain instances.

just remember to shim your diffs correctly, keep up on the maintenance and you will be good to go. i love bringing out my LSP, its gobs of fun. :D part of the build and break down process is also part of the fun for me as well.

[jamesbernatchez]

I bought the ofna rims with proline crimefighters as that was the only truggy rims they had at the time. The ofnas are offset 28mm. So with the conversion on it will only make it wider than if i was using the 0mm offset proline rims. Ill pick those up when they have them in stock. Im just waiting for the parts. Should be here in the next few days. :) Then i can FINALLY race it this weekend if everything works out.

On another note....the motor is rippin now that i finally tuned it :D Its sooo fast and it has crazy torque(plus im using a 13t clutch bell :) ) Its temping around 250-260 when i had it out. I ran in thick grass for a few minutes so i could jump it off a 2 foot dirt mound to check out how it is in the air. The dirt is not right for a jump...no lip and looking at it you would think the truck would fly front end way higher than rear, but it was level and landed like nothing happened. Its a decent mound pile. It was big enough for my revo to do back flips off of. When i temped it after being in the grass it was hitting like 340 :eek: So i took it out of the grass and richened it up a bit. So far so good.....hoping to race this weekend with it..... :cool:

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

I bought the ofna rims with proline crimefighters as that was the only truggy rims they had at the time. The ofnas are offset 28mm. So with the conversion on it will only make it wider than if i was using the 0mm offset proline rims. Ill pick those up when they have them in stock. Im just waiting for the parts. Should be here in the next few days. :) Then i can FINALLY race it this weekend if everything works out.

yea, i am never going back to those 28mm offset rims, i didnt get near as much steering as i got now, you will have to do some mods in order to get the same with just running zero offset.

two guys here locally did the 17mm conversion along with the 28mm offset, i break them on the inside everytime. they also installed longer servo arm on the steering servo and they dremeled down their C-hubs and other parts on their LSP's. you gain more without doing much but just hitting a dremel to the C-hub by just running zero.

[jamesbernatchez]

Well all my parts came. It took me about a half hour to swap everything over. Using all the parts i listed above seems to be the easiest!!! I had no problems at all. Im using Ofna 28mm offset truggy rims with proline crimefighters and it has a turning radius that is the 3ft, maybe less. Its a good deal lighter without the 23mm setup too :) I ran about half a tank through it in the street to check it all out and tune it some more. It runs great...possibly a bit too much low end :) I highly recommend the conversion over the 23mm setup. Also note that i have yet to put the kyosho offset ball ends on or the steering ackerman. Those will be done tonight. You didnt need to put the kyosho offset ball ends on UNLESS you are running 0 offset rims which should give you more steering! Pics with conversion soon :)

[CRSMP5]

good deal :D

[badd_maxx.25]

where can i find a good screw set for the lsp

[Duster_360]

where can i find a good screw set for the lsp


These screw kits are excellent, hardened steel, good count, and reasonably priced - one of the 1st things I do with a new rc is change to one of Tony's screw kits -

http://www.tony1034.com/prod04.htm

[jamesbernatchez]

I finally ran it on the track...and let me say OMG its nuts. I was the first one on the new track they built for the trophy race the next day. Unfortunatly the weather wasnt agreeing with me and it poured earlier so the track had puddles and was very muddy. I was able to clear everything except the triple. It was built to double single it and the straight before it was VERY short. The closest i came was casing the third jump. I broke nothing and was running it pretty hard. I want another :) It was really dirty and i cleaned it up and cant wait to race it!!! HB LSP-R = Awesome!!!!

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

You didnt need to put the kyosho offset ball ends on UNLESS you are running 0 offset rims which should give you more steering! Pics with conversion soon

that is correct, which is why i asked you why did you buy the 28mm offset. but i guess if you are wanting to run zero offset in the future, you have them already so you will be set regardless.

glad to hear you had a good time at the track.

[jamesbernatchez]

i bought the 28mm offset rims before i bought all the parts i listed for the 17mm conversion. I was planning on using parts of my ofna buggy to do it. I bought the ofna rims and I realized i didnt have everything i needed on the buggy so i then ordered the right parts(lst drive shafts, kyosho ball ends, etc.) . thats why im using the ofna rims for now.

I did just buy some 0mm offset prolines though:) I only need tires.

I went to the track again and this time i was able to see how i fared against a revo and a 1/8 scale buggy. The revo didnt stand a chance but in its defense a 10 year old kid was driving it and it was his first time on the track. He would be halfway down the straight and i could come from behind and pass him. LOL.

I wanted to see how my truggy faired against a buggy. Im not sure what the guy was running but it was fast. It was a non pull start motor and im pretty sure it was a kyosho buggy. on the jumps, turns, moguls we hung together. on the straight he didnt pull on me and i didnt pull on him!!! It was incredible. I think he was suprised that he couldnt shake me :) A few times i passed him by clearing the triple insted of doubling, singling it.

I could clear everything on the track except for the quad(2 doubles) I came very close but that leads me to this: I only broke the rear plastic rear arm mount and because that broke i also bent the rear front toe in plate. The only reason it happend was because i figured that i could clear everything else on the track why not try to clear the quads :rolleyes: I just ordered:

King Headz Hot Bodies Lightning Rear Arm Mount 0mm (Standard) - Black
King Headz Hot Bodies Lightning Toe-In Plate Set 59mm - Black

to replace the stock ones. These should help to make the truck bullet proof. Im planning on getting another truggy in the next few weeks. Im looking at either the jammin rtr or another lightning. Do they make a RTR lightning with the aluminum arms?

[chestnut007]

wow this thread is old.. anyways i am thinking about getting this puppy the (rr non-pro verison)for my b-day from ultimate hobbies and i was wondering if i use this fuel http://www.shopatron.com/img/product_images/158/TRNMH0010.jpg first then swich to a better fuel because i don't think that my parents want to spend anymore after buying this and im chipping in so i'll be broke when i first get it. Thanks!

[chestnut007]

i have this fuel for my rc10gt if you were wondering

[jamesbernatchez]

im running trinity 20% in mine and im not planning on switching....definitly plenty of power!!!

[chestnut007]

oh thats good to hear! I love that fuel and don't feel like buying two seprate fuels and it cheap! :)

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

King Headz Hot Bodies Lightning Rear Arm Mount 0mm (Standard) - Black

smart move by upgrading specific parts as you tend to find weak spots for your style of driving.

i never broke the rear toe in plate, but i have bent the front suspension holder, so i changed over to king headz, zero problems ever since.

buggy's can be harder to race against depending on the track configeration. for instance, the truggy will eat up the rough stuff as for the buggy will have to lay back on the ruff stuff.

we use to have buggy/truggy mahem is what they would call it, at that specific track, i was killing them buggies, because i had more stability, and there were many sections to where you need stability, such as double sided burms, burms leading to quads, rythum section, and a triple leading to a table top, step ups and so on.

you wont be able to out gun a buggy, BUT you can out handle a buggy, eat those burms right up, lay in the throttle coming out of the turns, and let the trug hit the jumps all nice and steady. if you are the better driver, you will eat a buggy in certain situations, but if you simply not the better driver, the other individual will get you no matter what you drive.

and if i was shopping for a buggy, i would look into the hyper 8, its cheap and pretty much dialed, i liked it anyhow when i drove it.

or you can get a lightning pro buggy, either one will do you just fine.

[jamesbernatchez]

Thanks Jimmy! Im hoping to have the parts tomorrow so i can check them out on the track. As for a buggy....i dont want one. Ive had Kanai 2's, MBX-5, etc. and would rather run the truggy class any day of the week. Im thinking of getting a rtr truggy but am wondering if you can get the lightning stadium rtr with the aluminum arms.

[Ball Racing]

Trinity fuel (monster blends) leave carbon build-up,
and when run on thewarmer side, the crank, rod, and bottom of piston turn amber...
Platinum trinity is not as bad but has less oil.

[jamesbernatchez]

Ive used trinity for a long time and have never had a problem with my engines.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Thanks Jimmy! Im hoping to have the parts tomorrow so i can check them out on the track. As for a buggy....i dont want one. Ive had Kanai 2's, MBX-5, etc. and would rather run the truggy class any day of the week. Im thinking of getting a rtr truggy but am wondering if you can get the lightning stadium rtr with the aluminum arms.

i wouldnt buy a rtr anything JMHO, especially if you are considering racing. its great for a newb coming into the hobby, but not the racing scene.

but if you are haqrd pressed on buying something rtr you can get the LSP, CRT, ST1 and so on. the LSP comes with the aluminum arms and so on.

[JIMMYBANGBANG]

Trinity fuel (monster blends) leave carbon build-up,
and when run on thewarmer side, the crank, rod, and bottom of piston turn amber...
Platinum trinity is not as bad but has less oil.


i agree, i have always liked OD best.

[jamesbernatchez]

i wouldnt buy a rtr anything JMHO, especially if you are considering racing. its great for a newb coming into the hobby, but not the racing scene.

but if you are haqrd pressed on buying something rtr you can get the LSP, CRT, ST1 and so on. the LSP comes with the aluminum arms and so on.


I understand where your coming from but im not a newbie at all! Ive been doing this for around 6 years and have had over 40 or so R/c's, some rtr but most kits. I raced 1/8 scale buggies mostly but have had almost every different type of r/c but no planes :) I just wanted something to mess with so i dont have to run my race setup lspr when i want to go run at the track for fun. I actually just picked up an emaxx so im planning on converting my revo to a brushless revo w/ lipo! Should be fun!

[jamesbernatchez]

It seems that not many people are posting pics on this thread anymore. Heres some up to date pictures of my truck with a short description of the mods:

Hot Bodies LSP-R w/ Picco .27 plus alot of other mods. 17mm hub conversion, LST driveshafts, Sportwerks stub axles, hub carrier steering mod, doubled up steering ackerman, King Headz rear arm mount and rear toe-in plate, and Ofna JP-1 pipe. This is definitley the best vehicle I own. Very very strong and fast :)

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/My%20Vehicles/LSPR.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/My%20Vehicles/LSPR2.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/My%20Vehicles/LSPR3.jpg

[CRSMP5]

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Tracks/tripplecrown_pt1_06/ook7_woman/12.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Tracks/tripplecrown_pt1_06/ook7_woman/9.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Tracks/tripplecrown_pt1_06/ook7_woman/8.jpg

above were from round 1 of the ohip tripple crown series..

http://www.truggyracers.com/TRIPOD/Track_photos/mi_rd3_06/51.jpg
is from rd3 of the mi rc pro series.. only LSP i have photo of.. my photographer and i were in the same qualifiers so no shots of me.. LOL..

[jamesbernatchez]

nice pics cs :)

I got to get some out on the track!

[CRSMP5]

yep track shots are great to have.. the trick is finding someone who can take good shots..

[chestnut007]

ok i try OD fuel (i guessing you mean o'donnell) thanks!

[jamesbernatchez]

Well i bought another LSP-R from a local guy here in CT. The truggy itself looks good. It has:

17mm conversion
King Headz rear chassis brace
King Headz front chassis brace
King Headz extended motor mount
Racers Edge aluminum shock ends
22 degree buggy hubs w/ front setup
Ofna 150cc fuel tank
Plus a plastic container of parts.

It came with an Ofna Picco .28 w/ roto-start but the roto start doesnt work. I took it apart and the shaft that slips into the one way bearing is too small. Its not the right one, but i can always use the starter box with it. The guy i bought it from said he was having trouble getting it to stay running. When i got home i did a quick once over on the chassis and took the head and button off the motor. What did i find......a piston that's top was black. Im thinking it was run too lean. I wiped it all down and put some after run oil in it. It has pretty good compression still so i think if i retune it, it will run fine. I put in a new glow plug also.

He also gave me a set of proline 0mm offset rims mounted with crime fighers and a set of ofna 28mm offset rims new. Plus i got the stock rims/tires that came in the kit.I got all this for the great deal of $325!!!! Even if the motor wont run im still very happy with the truck...it looks like it was well taken care of and only time will tell! Now on to the pictures:

The new truggy described here is the one with the blue, yellow, and checkerd flag paint scheme.

http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2877.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2881.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2882.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2885.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2887.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2888.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2892.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2893.jpg
http://i78.photobucket.com/albums/j98/jamesbernatchez/HB%20LSP-R/DSCN2894.jpg

[badboy2]

thats a good buy...but youre confusing heheheh ..someday u sell them then the next day u keep them..hehe..well im like that too...sometimes i fell like im gonna have a getting out of the hobby sale hehehe

[jamesbernatchez]

Badboy- I know, I know....I have a bunch of different hobbies(rc, 1:1 cars, photography) so i sometimes i think about selling everything and getting back into airsoft, photography, etc. I change my mind alot!!! When i actually sit down and think about it...the truggies are just too much fun to get rid of. Im the type of person that as soon as i get rid of them, ill want to buy them again sooner or later :)

[CRSMP5]

LOL.. i was wondering when you were going to bump the thread here.. LOL..

[chestnut007]

wow what an awesome deal, im jealous

[jamesbernatchez]

wow what an awesome deal, im jealous

:) By the way..i ran about 1/4 tank through the motor and as i was trying to start it i was hoping for the best and..........it started up!!!! It ran no problem and was temping around 225 after a few high speed passes. It did die on me twice but started right back up. I think i need to fiddle a bit with the low end/idle screw. Im soooo stoked right now. The other one is fixed and they are both ready to be tuned this weekend. I just need to do the doubled steering draglink tonight and im set!

[chestnut007]

yea i would be stoked too

[badd_maxx.25]

hey all, i have a lsp pro-r my rear diff keeps locking up enyone know how to fix it or to prevent it from happening again

[jamesbernatchez]

is it shimmed? should have very little play in it.

[CRSMP5]

set of kyosho/jammin internal diff gears..

[badd_maxx.25]

do u have a part number for the jammin gears

[CRSMP5]

nope

[jamesbernatchez]

Well im selling one of mine..trying to get into electric also:

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=224057

:)

[badd_maxx.25]

does enyone have a parts list for the 17mm conversion
with part numbers

[jamesbernatchez]

check back on page like 95-96 i listed everything i used.

[badd_maxx.25]

i was really looking for the part numbers so i would every thing i need

[badd_maxx.25]

found your list
thanks

[jamesbernatchez]

No problem...i got everything from Amainhobbies.com and have had no problems with them. Quick service.

I managed to bend one of the lst driveshafts so i just ordered an extra set plus some other little things!

[chestnut007]

its me again, i just got mine and im almost finished break-in, i got this steering servo that my lhs said was the best (airtronics 94358) and i noticed that the fuel tubing from the tank to the engine was really long so i cut it, is this bad because i've seen all you guys have at the original length. Tell me what you think. Thanks

[jamesbernatchez]

your servo is a great servo. I have it in my xx4 now(i sold both of my truggies, going to electric for now) The fuel tubing being short from the tank to the engine isnt bad, but it wont run as long when your upside down.

[chestnut007]

oh i see, i'll put it back in there

[Ball Racing]

Wheres Monster Brad?

[chestnut007]

i don't know, any ways heres an pic of my lsp after a day of good practice
http://static.flickr.com/95/226687454_80a3a55c94_o.jpg
i was almost about to not drive itte track for thisreason but since its so far away i figured what the heck

[jamesbernatchez]

Chestnut- thats why i quit running nitro for now. Electric stays much cleaner and is just as fast!!!! :)

[chestnut007]

lol yea i actually drive both

[chestnut007]

also the track was muddy

[CRSMP5]

no idea where brad is....

:)

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/rc_edit/rear_uprights/mi4%20001.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/rc_edit/rear_uprights/mi4%20002.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/rc_edit/rear_uprights/mi4%20003.jpg

i was playign with these this past weekend..

[chestnut007]

why do you guys use the alumium arms? whouldn't that put a lot of presure on the hing pins? thanks

[CRSMP5]

the hb plastic arms are garbage.. for the 22+ gal of the aluminum ones i have.. the hing pin holes are finally worn into a key hole shape.. but ive never had a issue with hingpin issues in the 365+363 days ive had mine.. turns 2 years old on fri :D

[Monsterbrad]

I am still around funny to see someone ask about me!
I am taking a little break from RC at the moment cause I purchased a home.
I am pretty much out of running truggy don't even have one anymore.
Buggy seems to be my thing but I have to admit I am liking the looks of electric again.
Time will tell what I go to next.
Good to see the originals of the Hot Bodies are still in here.
Have fun guys
C-ya
MonsterBrad :D

[jamesbernatchez]

Well.....im selling mine on the bay right now :(

I LOVE it but im getting into 4wd electric racing and am having a blast. I would hold on to it but i could use the cash right now and i figured ill let somebody else get use out of it instead of me just letting it sit in the basement. Ill probably pick one up again next year but for now I gotta fund my new BJ4 WE that i want :D

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hot-Bodies-Lightning-Stadium-truggy-HB-LSP-LSP-R-Jammin_W0QQitemZ260028556234QQihZ016QQcategoryZ492 15QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item260028556234

[chestnut007]

well i have had no problems with the plastic arms yet and im 4+ tanks through

[chestnut007]

awwww, i wish i had money for your truck. It looks sooooo sweet

[jamesbernatchez]

LOL....thanks man, and yes it is as sweet as it looks! The winning bidder wont be disappointed.

[CRSMP5]

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/arm1.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/arm2.jpg

the famous pics of the plastic arms... they also allow you to bend cvds/shock shafts in ways that never happens on aluminum arms..

[chestnut007]

wow!!! i really never expect them to bend that bad, i guess i souldn't listen to my lhs poeple some times

[CRSMP5]

well when i built my son a stadium from spare parts i put plastic arms on it.. every weekend he would bend a cvd..

set the truck out in the sun for a couple hours.. the arms turn to jello.. LOL..

[chestnut007]

lol, wow, you must really have a lot of spare parts!

[CRSMP5]

well whats stock on my lsp?

front/rear/center diffs
arms, upper/lower
center cvds

ohhh body mounts/wing mount..

everythign else is Vertigo cf, bce chassis, KMW shocks, 17mm conversion, racers edge knuckles, re shock ends, cnc motor mounts, cnc pipe hanger.. ofna 150cc tank so on.. so had lots of original stuff kickin round..

so in theory.. all i needed was front/rear/center diffs/bulks = ebay for under 100$ 18$ in plastic arms.. so on.. ;) rember hb plastic parts are cheap.. :) i think i had 156$ tied up in it till electronics/engine..

[Monsterbrad]

The BEST arm fLeX I ever have seen is the new STR.
WHAt a complete piece of **** it is.
The Ofna Mugen and LSP are the ones that I can see being contenders in the truggy wars.

[CRSMP5]

no brad the best is the hellcrap.. that stuff moves front/back is so crappy..

[jamesbernatchez]

Well youll be happy to know that I am keeping my LSPR :) :) :) :)



ITS GOING BRUSHLESS!!!!! I just got back from the track and was watching a lst, lspr, 2 jammin truggies and a emaxx(all brushless) race. Everything excpe the emaxx was from find designs........they have some sick setups. Very nice people too. Im hoping to order a setup within a few weeks :D

[CRSMP5]

sweet.. make sure to look in my pinned index.. there is somethign there you should look at.. ;)

[jamesbernatchez]

Yeah im trying to figure out what to do. Ive read alot of crap on fine design so if i do it im piecing a kit together myself.

[Ball Racing]

I think the Mammoth ST is hands down the jello king.
At least the one I had when they first came out..
On a hot day you could work on almost work on the diffs without taking out the screws,,,,, (well almost) :)

[chestnut007]

what weight diff oils are you guys using, im using 10k front, 30kcenter, 3k rear

[Keith-OH]

7,10,3

[jasong]

Guys,

I just got my LSP pro-r. My kit was missing the 5x10 bearings for the clutch. Luckily i had some laying around from another project. What bearings are being used in the clutch as i'm sure the ones I have are not the right type.

Also, I'm going to put a picco .28 team turbo in it. What tooth clutch bell would be a good combination for this engine? Is anyone running this engine? I'm hoping to begin the break in process tomorrow.

Jason

[CRSMP5]

most people have issues with that engine.. so no gearign reccomendations i know of as they become paper weights..

5x10 is correct..

[chestnut007]

thanks keith-oh

[jasong]

CRSMP5,

Man, that doesnt sound good. I read up on it and it sounded like a decent engine, just a little finnicky to tune.

Another question as this is my first 1/8th scale i'm not that familiar with the clutch setups on these buggies. This one has springs that are always in contact with the clutch bell and they are stiff enough to kill the engine at idle. Should they be this tight? Are they necessary?

Thanks,
Jason

[CRSMP5]

spring should NEVER touch the cb.... its built wrong

translation
finnicky = your going to paper weight it as it will never run right..

[Ball Racing]

Spring tension should not have a affect at idle, unless they are throwing the shoes out, instead of holding them back.

[CRSMP5]

ball.. the fact the spring is touching the cb is why its stalling.. he built somethign wrong.. no idea what he did.. but something is in error...

[jasong]

CRSMP5,
I was able to get it sorted out. Thanks for telling me I built it wrong....the directions had a picture with an exploded diagram, but no assembled picture. This is my first 1/8 scale car and there are no people around me to ask for help.

So far I have to disagree with you on this engine. Since i've corrected the clutch problem, it has been very consistent. It starts easier than my OS 18TZ and has been easier to tune as well. I really havent peaked it yet as i only have about three tanks through it.

Jason