Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium (PRO/RTR)

[Strike 4]

What's the difference between the Lightning Stadium Pro and the Lightning Stadium RR besides the aluminum arms?

[xxxkat]

Shocks (3.5mm vrs. 3.0mm)Clutch(3 shoe vrs.2)Brakes(2F 1R vrs. 1F 1R)Mach. steering arm vrs. cast,differential gear set hardened,center diff,rubber sealed bearings vrs. metal sealed,universal center shaft(rear),alum suspension holder,I feel thats it's worth the money to get the Pro and replace the alum. arms with the plastic ones.

[winning edge designs]

For servos I definately like the Airtronics, then Futaba, the KO, then maybe Hitec after them...Hitec is inexpensive and has good customer service, but I'm not sure how the Futaba and Airtonics customer servie are because i've never sent anything back to them?....;), Jim

[Fantom 15 gt]

Hows the durability on one of these?

[CRSMP5]

duribility is great on it.....

[Monsterbrad]

I have had no issues with mine but it has its stupid little things..
Nothing thats not fixable.
I am still running mine bone stock
I love to race it its awesome...

[Walter T Flower Jr]

Who makes a good hardened 15 tooth clutch bell? I put an HPI bell from my Savage on and it is showing alot of wear for only 2 tanks of fuel.
Walter

[CRSMP5]

has to be hardened.. i myself like the ofna vnted hardened cb's.. BUT you require the 5$ shim kit that comes with pilot shaft extensions, the stock flywheel is thick and the ofna cb teeth are longer then stock so unless you shim out the crank shaft on the engine a tad they will bind when trying to tighten down the retainer screw.. another soulution is to use a savage 3 shoe flywheel which eliminates the need for the extension, its the same diameter and all and makes it a perfect fit well still need to properly shim the cb, but will have to do that with any cbs you use..

[Monsterbrad]

I have had no issues with anything related to drive train yet...
But my truck does not have that much time on it yet..
Next week I am going to try to hit the track again...

[Keith-OH]

I just ordered my Lightning stadium pro from TH for $469.99

[CRSMP5]

sweet

[proraptor2625]

Hey guys I was sick of us not having boards just for truggies so I whipped one up real quick:

http://proraptor.proboards44.com/index.cgi

[Nitro-Olli]

Who makes a good hardened 15 tooth clutch bell? I put an HPI bell from my Savage on and it is showing alot of wear for only 2 tanks of fuel.
Walter

Can´t understand that, HPI clutchbells are simply greeeat :D

http://www.literacer.de/bilder/Modellbau/defglocke.jpg

[Monsterbrad]

Check your mesh..
I would say that there is too much gap between the gears judging by how that gears looks.
Try this and see what happens..

[CRSMP5]

:D actually mb.. thats a HPI cb on a lightning... HPI cannot stand steel spurs as the photo is the end result in a few tanks.. ive done it just to see what happens, i love my hardened bells.. last forver on savage and never yet a issue on the lightnings i have..

[Walter T Flower Jr]

My HPI 15 tooth bell is half as chewed as the one above after 2 tanks of fuel, who makes the best hardend bells?

[Nitro-Olli]

My HPI 15 tooth bell is half as chewed as the one above after 2 tanks of fuel, who makes the best hardend bells?

Those Ofna Buggy bells are fine..

My gear mesh was okay, those HPI bells are simply crap, but, well, they are not designed for steel spurs..

[Monsterbrad]

I did not have any issues with the stocker..

[winning edge designs]

It's more about the material compatibility then the quality of the part. Use a soft metal clutch bell on a steel spur gear and it ends up as above, no matter who made it...Stay with Ofna, Mugen, or Kyosho(big dolla) clutch bells and you'll be all set.......Jim

[Keith-OH]

I was thinking about getting a new body for my truck. Where is the best place to buy one? How do I know what will fit and what wont?

[xxxkat]

From what I have tried(took truck to LHS)The only bodys that looked good on the truck(just an opinion :D )were in the MGT size,the Maxx size just did not really fit.I'm sticking to the stocker.

[CRSMP5]

well the body needs to be wide and long, the hpi bronco will work with removing the wheel flares so you can leagthen th erear well openings, the cuda also fits.. look back a few pages for the ones ive used...

[Monsterbrad]

I like the stocker again
It works great and looks good I think and its thick which is nice also.
A little tip use a hole saw to cut the vent in for the engine keeps the body from tearing as bad in wrecks.

[KansasCajun]

I have a few questions to the people who own this truck. I posted this same setup on another board, and I got one response. I'm hoping I get a better response here.

I am looking to replace my Savage, and I think this HotBodies Truck is the truck I'm gonna do that with.

Here is what I have planned, please let me know if you think these are good things, and if there is something else I am missing that I should do.

I am planning on getting the Pro Version, selling the motor and pipe, selling the tires too, and replacing them with my Werks P3, with a OFNA Jammin JP1 Pipe, and possibly using the new Pro-Line 40 Series Wheels with 40 Series Bowties. For steering, I'll use an Airtronics 94358Z (200 oz, .10 sec). I see a popular mod is to use 1/2 fuel line on the shocks (front and rear I assume?) for limiters, so I'll probably do that too. The RotoStart will get dumped and I'll purchase an Associated Starter Box to kick things off. I may get the pro version and plastic arms and swap em out.

Anything else I should do? What mods should I do before I even run the truck?

[Monsterbrad]

Well that all sounds good.
But from what I can say after running mine stock you are going to be ahead of the game.
The only thing I can say is don't shoot down the stock tires they work great on hard packed clay CR will test to that time and time again.
The stock wheels are junk so you will have to bake the wheels a couple times to get them off the rims.
I like RPM wheels with the wide maxx offset.
I would change the front dif oil to 30,000 or so depending on the track you are running on.
Enjoy
this truck is awesome!!!!

[CRSMP5]

im the guy who posted on the other board.. :)

kep the stock tires and try them if you are on hard clay/bluegroove surface, then decide after you try

i changed my engine and electronics before i ever used mine, change the center diff oil to 50k, look thru the thread on tips for improvement on questionable engineering of the truck to resolve those few simple to fix issues, and you will like it..

[winning edge designs]

Kieth, check out our J Concepts MGT/LST Illuzion truck body at www.jconcepts.net. It also fits all other big trucks, in fact I have it on my LSP and it's in the video clips listed on starting grid at the beginning and end of the vid. It's of course under the Maxy's thread....:).

Kansascajun, I liked 30K center diff, 5,000 front and 50 wt front shocks, 55 rear. I also installed the included suspesion stop(aka grub) screws in the arms with locktite to prevent shock breakage trouble. We also double up the front hinge pin plate, then use a drill and tap to install a set screw to hold the hinge pins in the rear block, rather then e-clips, since it will be a little short after the mod. Some racers here are even drilling the chassis to bolt the front,rear, suspension pin mount to the chassis with two nuts and bolts. I have not done that mod yet. The Ofna Jammin X1 center chassis brace looks like it may cure our center flexing problem too, once it's available?......good luck, Jim, Winning Edge Designs, J concepts

[KansasCajun]

Kansascajun,
We also double up the front hinge pin plate, then use a drill and tap to install a set screw to hold the hinge pins in the rear block, rather then e-clips, since it will be a little short after the mod. .....good luck, Jim, Winning Edge Designs, J concepts

Hey Jim,
You are the guy who I bought a painted body from
My T4 (http://www.kickingchicken.com/kickingchicken/homepage.nsf/T4?ReadForm) .

Ok can someone show me a good picture of what we are talking about with that front hinge pin plate? Where are you drilling and tapping a set screw?

CRSMP5 - I figured I'd find another forum with a bit more activity... that other one just seems dead.

[xxxkat]

DONT i repeat DONT run bowtie 40's,you will tear up the truck(trust me on this one)If you must run bowties use the Maxx ones,The kit tires are great(the inserts blow)I just got my plastic arm set so I will replace the alum. ones asap,Why does everyone want to get rid of the roto start??? I like mine..dont care much for bump boxes..and I hate pull starts.I also changed the radio system..first thing.

[winning edge designs]

Kansas, cool ,glad to see good customers floating around the net! I'll take some pics in between the hustle and bustle of the weekend asap of the mod.

I like the aluminum arms, the plastic seems to "floppy", but a bit more durable perhaps. The mods I've done make it so you must do reallt, really, dumb stuff to bust the truck.

I don't care for roto starts, or pullstarts, although the roto start eliminates the broken pull cord syndrome, it doesn't help the slipping one way bearing or reduce the drag of a pullstart.................It's all good, Jim

[KansasCajun]

Bowties are what hooks up on our track, and I'd thought I'd try running those new pro-line wheels with the 23mm hex adapter. I'll see how it reacts to those adapters.

As far as the bump box for me, its an "ease of use" thing for me. Most of the guys I race with either have run 1/10 truck or 1/8 scale buggies and they are "used to" starting with a bump box. When you have a new pit guy every weekend, its just easy to have them use the bump box and then you don't have to worry about a busted one-way if they crank too much on the roto-start.

The reason I'm going to swap the arms out are from a replacement point of view. Replacement plastic arms are $8, aluminum arms are $70. OUCH!

[xxxkat]

If you bend the stock arms..ouch,You will be replacing alot more than the arms..LOL.If bowties hook up so will the stock tires,Just use a different rim and insert.On the 40's,You just dont bend the rims on them,it is such a big tire(weight)that when you crash it's very hard on your stock parts,the stock steering link will bend(use 2)you will break the rear block.I know that the LST,MGT and Savage racers use the bowtie 40's..they need to,it helps their trucks from rolling over..A problem the LSP does not suffer from.Big tires = sprung weight,the less your tires weigh the better your truck will work.

[CRSMP5]

i found on loose dusty stuff that the bowties work on the stockers do not, different track that mb has yet to see, the 23mm hex adapter you need are the savage ones, and thats my planned 40 series wheel for it, dso i can get a even better truggy look to the truck, but why did the one person say they will tear up the truck??

yea the hb lightning has a following on this forum, i actually started it back in july on the buggy thread... im just glad its picking up :)

cannot wait to see your photos of what you have done to your truck..

[xxxkat]

The reason why I said that it would tear up the truck..is that the only times I have broke is running the 40's thats why,Tacoed the steering link(it looked like a U)Have broken the rear mount 2 times.All due to the force of tires that weigh 2 times what the stock ones do.

[winning edge designs]

I have had some terrible crashes, at boggy creek, trying to clear a 25 foot jump and landing directly on the front arms and suspension, which broke the front suspension pin holder. The arms looked perfect, not even a scratch....i'll be surprised if they ever bend?

As far as tires go, i've found that the kit tires will work great if your able to run holeshots in gas truck, or if your running taper pins. Any other tire in gas truck and the kit tires are sketchy at best.

XXXkat, we are doubling up the steering rack, by using longer bolts thru the two peices, works great, no more bent parts!........Jim

[CRSMP5]

ahh the 40 series with bowties weigh as much as stockers and are lighter then standard bowties on standard wheels.. i actually have a whole bunch weighed out and will have to find that thread on central to post those findings here, im thinking about mounting up my plowboys on mine and hitting some snowbanks today.. :)

still unsure as to why your breaking rear suspention holder though...

yep double that baby up.. thats what my rc driver tip was..

[Monsterbrad]

I have yet to mess with the truck in any way but then again I have only had a chance to race it once other than breaking it in right before all this white **** fell.
I will have to get my hands on another drag link for the steering I see thats a problem bending.
And for the tire and wheel thing going on here
THATS WHY WE SHOULD ALL RUN KOMODO DRAGON'S
they are awesome and light and look GREAT!

[xxxkat]

I'll start running them(Komodo's)as soon as it's a 1/8th stadium truck class,As it stands right now the MT guys are PO'ed that our local track lets us truggys run with them now..they would go freaking insane if I used the Komodo's(LOL)I'm already 1 to 2 laps faster now with the Maxx size tires.CRSMP5,I don't know about your scale but on mine,Bow Tie 40's weighed 248 grams,Maxx Bow Tie's weighed 209 grams and the stock tires weighed 196 grams.The Komodo low pro weighed 145 grams.that was with rim and insert.

[Monsterbrad]

The Komodo's look awesome too
I will run them wherever I can.
just lookin at this truck with no wheels on it seeing its stance !
Its just awesome with those arms hanging out there
Love it
AWESOME!!!

[CRSMP5]

as soon as they allow komotos, then you will not need mt or even a hb lightning truggy.. just any buggy will do with a wheel change.. the only real issue with them in the 1st place.. yes i was one of the 1st with a set before pictures existed...

[Keith-OH]

So whats the deal with Komodos? Are you not allowed to race with them? If not why not? I never raced before so I have alot to learn before I go.

[xxxkat]

Where I race at(3 different tracks)They all have different rules on MT's.. :confused: One track in this area wont allow the LSP to even race at their track :rolleyes: and yet you can run a hardcore maxx,For me I dont think they should allow the use of the Komodos..at least not in MT racing(it's a scale "thing"..LOL)If you wanted to start a stadium truggy class and use the Komodos that would be cool.I just think that we racers/owners of the LSP need to understand where the other drivers are at..they own a truck that was not really designed to be a race truck,I would rather race with the sut's and the sst's..truggys.

[CRSMP5]

pg 8 has photos of komotos on it... they are max 1/8" taller then 1/8th scale buggy wheels and tires..

[VMach]

What motor header/pipe combo are you running on the LSP?

[winning edge designs]

On rough tracks the Komoto's may be slower? At the Maxys Challenge I qualified 2nd on maxx bowties and wheels, Bill Hagen qualified 3rd on max bowties and wheels....there were alot of "Komodo's" behind us on the grid and after the main was over........I've tried gluing together two sets of 1/8th scale tires with the sidewalls removed so they are twice as wide, same height. This seems like the best combination by far. It's alot of work and alot of money, but it's unlimited right?......Jim

[xxxkat]

I'm running a Peak .28 with an RD Logics pipe.

[CRSMP5]

i have my rossi 28 3 port in it, waiting on the rb 28 RACE version though with pull start for it.. i have the "original" tsais pro pipe on it and stock header.. compairing that pipe to the rb 063 pipe there is very little differance except it is much more quiet.. my rb 28 is in the savage still..

honestly, unless your running buggy gearing there is a big disadvantage to the komoto tires.. will loose major top end speed.. you could never gear a savage/lst to make up for the tire size.. note how th epg8 photos are on my lightning pro1 buggy, that was made up BEFORE the stadium was revieled.. it also has a ofna clutch shoe style 2 speed in it :)

[winning edge designs]

For power in my Truck i'm running a Novarossi BX21, it's actually an engine that I listed on E bay for $139 and nobody bid on it, LOL. I'm also using a polished Jammin pipe. I'm thinking of going to the Rex .28, but I like the 8 minutes on tank i'm getting now, :)...........Jim

[VMach]

Well I'm still waiting on my truck to arrive but I'll put a P5 or a VZ-B V-Spec on it. I have both of them NIB.

[Monsterbrad]

I have a spare Mach .26 not so thats going to be my new engine but the stocker will do for a while till I get outside in the spring I hope.
I do like the Mach 26 for power and its cheap no big loss if it over heats or anything like that.

[Keith-OH]

Does anyone have a video racing the LSP? I have only found 2 vidoes online, but neather where of racing. I would like to see a video of the truck racing another truck.

Keith

[CRSMP5]

i do but no where to host them..

[Keith-OH]

CRSMP5: I just sent you a PM to where to host it at. But we cant leave it there for very long. So someone else will need to host it if we want to keep it online.

Keith

[CRSMP5]

its uploading now.. :) it is not a very good vid (i need to get a faster computer as if i do anything on it at the same time of upload it causes weird speed issues in the vid), but it is 8 min of revo, lst, lsp (one with lights) and a savage.. on clay, this is the track im no longer using that mb is now using...

let me know if it uploaded.. got weird no page to disply after i clicked upload..

[Keith-OH]

i dont think it worked. if you want you can log onto aol messenger and send it to me for me to upload it. typhoon1133 is my aol name.

[Monsterbrad]

What servo are you guys running for steering????

[CRSMP5]

my 3+ year old fma finally died, im going to get one of the new hitech ti ones, but since the thing is so light im going to get the 180oz one thats speed is i beleive .13, as the 250oz one is too slow for me at .18

[Monsterbrad]

Well I was thinking about something faster than the 645 I have in there now.
It's a little slow and I want something faster but I don't want to spend a bunch

[CRSMP5]

the 100$ ti one is fast.. LOL the middle one with 180oz

[Freedom]

Does anyone have a video racing the LSP? I have only found 2 vidoes online, but neather where of racing. I would like to see a video of the truck racing another truck.

Keith

yes please post the vid, this is going to be my next kit and I would really like to see it run, thanks guys.

[winning edge designs]

There is a link of the Maxys race at the Starting Grid on line.............Jim

[xxxkat]

Or you could get an airtronics 94358..200 at .10.You guys will learn someday that hitec is junk..the k mart of servos.. :eek:

[Keith-OH]

Freedom: here are links to the ones i found. I am not sure how to find the one winning edge designs has.

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/movies/stadiumrr.mov

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=42317

[Keegy]

hey all...just registered just to get on the LSP forum!
anyhoo...mine should be here by the end of the week, and i have a question about the tire and wheel size... i am aware that it can accept any TMaxx wheel, but are they the same size tire or is it going to add much more height and girth? just wondering cuz i do know the Tmaxx is a 1/10 scale truck where as the LSP is a 1/8...
one more thing...besides the one Quick Time video above are there any others for the Mac Quick Time program? all ones around the web are Real Player or Windows...
THANKS
john john

[Keith-OH]

I just uploaded CRSMP5 racing video.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=45579

[Keegy]

i cant see it as its a Windows program and i only have Quick Time :(

[xxxkat]

Cool video..But that track is a little on the small side for MT racing..or so it looks.

[CRSMP5]

its the indoor track that all the cheating goes on at.. that was the 1st day of racing before cheating became common.. yes its a windows program...

yes tmaxx wheels and tires are actually wider then whats stock on it, the tires are pretty narrow...

airtronics to me is junk.. ive had so many electrical issues with airtronics stuff ill never use it again.. now i will not say hitech does nto have its issues.. i try to stay away from them too, but compaired to airtronics id buy hitech 1st... wonder what good futaba servos there are...

[Keegy]

thanks... but are the tires the same height at least?... i didnt want to add any height or too much unnecessary weight to the truck...i was going to use Tmaxx sized bow ties or these pin dawg tires on them...
still trying to shop around for the best motor for her... i dont want a pull start thats for sure...ive had 2 other trucks and buggies w that and it stresses me out when it breaks or jamms up...argh!!!!

[CRSMP5]

i say for engine, the new RB 28 Race version, its non pull start, i want one but have to wait for pull start version as i hate being forced to use a starter box..

yea they same height as the bowties.. not a issue.. ive run stock, bowties on maxx sized wheels and 40 series bowties on mine.. the 40 series is actually slightly shorter..

[Walter T Flower Jr]

Does anyone know what the torque and model number, (Futaba ???), is of the stock steering servo? Also my servo saver broke on tank two, anyone else find them fragile?
Walter

[CRSMP5]

few.. very few servo savers i know of have broken.. i think they have a defective airbubble or something (a few buggies break it, your the first stadium i beleive).. call hb on that, and servo is same as a savage..

[Freedom]

Freedom: here are links to the ones i found. I am not sure how to find the one winning edge designs has.

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/contents/movies/stadiumrr.mov

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=42317

Keith,

I have already seen those two, I would like to see an actual race footage, thanks any way.

[CRSMP5]

did you see the one he uploaded for me?

[Keith-OH]

Here is on more video of racing.


http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=44770

[KansasCajun]

Here is on more video of racing.


http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=44770

Good lord man.. that race was a truggy festival. LOL. But that is what I call a monster truck track though. Nice and big. I wish the video had more of the LSP though, it wasn't on the LSP all that much.

Ya know.. watching all this video is making me want to go outside and run mine. Winter sucks. :)

[Keegy]

i wish someone had some Quicktime LSP videos...
ARGH!!!!
mine should be here anyday now... but its cold outside and probably wont be able to break it in till spring... any suggestions? if its gets to around 50 something degrees is that too cold to break her in?

[xxxkat]

I broke mine in and it was colder than that..runs great.

[winning edge designs]

Keith, sweet, you found it on S-grid, persistance pays off, :).

That's my truck at the very beginning and at the end during a fuel stop and final lap of the video........I sure wish I would have started on the same lap, but missed the first two because I broke the front plate in the warm-up.....Oh well, next race, ;)......Jim

[Monsterbrad]

this truck rules!

[xxxkat]

That has been my opinion as well.. :cool:

[Monsterbrad]

Every time I look at this truck sitting on the stand I am glad that I bought it.
All the aluminum is just awesome!!!!!
Looks sweet

[Keegy]

i had this Kyosho Ultima upgraded to get that LSP vibe... but my LSP should be here by Sat or Mon...is there mail on New Years Day? here s a pic of the Ultima...i had someone custom machine the parts... nice! its something nice to toy w when i suppose i have to waut for new parts when i break stuff on the LSP...

[Keegy]

couldnt get the pics to upload sorry... well it has the machined billet aluminum arms front and rear and so forth...

[winning edge designs]

Keegy, the HB LSP has proven to be very durable after tweaking a few things. Cruise thru the thread and you'll see them all posted.....If you can't find them we will gladly post the tips again......Jim

[Keegy]

Keegy, the HB LSP has proven to be very durable after tweaking a few things. Cruise thru the thread and you'll see them all posted.....If you can't find them we will gladly post the tips again......Jim

yes could you post the tips again! thanks alot

[winning edge designs]

Keegy, ok, here goes......

Biggest thing is adding the included droop, or stop screws in the arms. Use loctite and be sure to tighten them enough to take the load off the shocks. Or you'll pop the shock ends off regularly.

Second, add another rack bar, or centerlink(aluminum between the bellcranks), so there are two stacked on each other, using 5 or 6mm longer bolts to do so. Otherwise you will eventually bend the center rack.

Third, heavier rear shock oil, this helps keep the truck from bottoming and jumping nose down over bigger jumps. I like 50wt TeamLosi oil in front and 60wt TeamLosi in back.

Fourth, I have doubled my front hinge pin plate. This requires a modified rear front suspension mount to use a set screw to lock the pins in place, since an E clip no longer fits after this mod. File a flat onto the hing pin and the set screw will bite very well. Use a 3mm tap and the proper size drill available at any good hardware stores.

Fifth, I added a spacer(stacked washers) to the rear brace, where there is a gap. It is in the case, or tower area, because it can't be properly tightened with a space in the material and a long bolt passing thru everything.

Sixth and final tip, I mounted our Monster Illuzion body, which fits way better and doesn't look like a 10th scale on the truck! see www.jconcepts.net

Hope this helps.......Jim, Winning Edge Designs, J Concepts

[CRSMP5]

6th add 1/4" fuel tubing to the front shocks as a bump stop, or mod the diff outdrives, or mgt axels to prevent breakign the cross pin due to cup bind on the diff

7th center diff oil change, stock stuff to thin, rear tires seem to unload power to the front tires, pay attention to how th tires are ballooning..

note on the 4th, you can use the stock hingpins if you do as i did reverse the pins so the mushroom head is on the bell crank side, eclip is on the front crossbrace, (also makes it much easier to change out the front diff and rear diff if set up with the eclips easy to get too, its a few pages back with photos,) the bumper will also need a slight trim to clear the extra tooth, but 2 shims between the doubled up front arm brace on the screws keeps it all good..

add on to 5th also, th eplastic Ls where it goes to the chassis need tightened up also, mine were not tight, mine also lacked loctite..

[Keegy]

thanks you both...
can i see pics of everyones LSPs?

[winning edge designs]

crsmp5, you have a problem with the axle pins bottoming in the outdrive cups? Mine are fine, in fact they have almost an 1/8th inch gap on full compression? Maybe they have updated that?

7 is a good one that I did not mention, I used 30k in the center diff and 2000 in the rear to add acceleration....Thanks, Jim

[winning edge designs]

Here is a pic of mine....if this works, :).....http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/images/illuzion_Monster_1.jpg ....Jim, J Concepts, Winning Edge Designs

[CRSMP5]

well if it is updated, then the factory must have added fuel tubing to the shock shafts.. take a look for me as the 1st version the cvd locks up in the diff outdrive under full compression... or they made the cvd shorter.. but yes original ones have a bottoming issue.. you can ask robert next time you talk to him as his is like mine.. i cut my diff outdrives to eliminate the issue

id liek to hear that they solved this issue as it was the 2nd dumbest design flaw, 1st being the rear brace at the bulk..

this thread is full of my photos..

what body is that? does it cover the bumpers or you remove them?

[xxxkat]

It does look like he removed most of the bumper.

[winning edge designs]

Ya, i'll look into the possiblity of an update....

The bumpers were removed from my truck for the weight savings. Alot of guys here are using the lightning buggy front bumper. Our Illuzion body does a much better job of fitting the truck, imo, with or without the bumpers intact, since I tried it both ways, no pics with bumper though..............Jim

[Keegy]

it looks great! anyone else has any pics of their LSP besides CRSMP5 and Jim?
OH quick painting question...i've always painted the lexan body from the inside of course... but i was looking to do some parts on the top of the hood of the lexan body with a matte black as the polycarb paint seems to dry flat on the inside... not alot..will it chip real easy? is it an all out bad idea? have any of you painted an entire body from the outside with good or bad results?

[gcobra16]

I have been watching this forum since it first started. I am now running the Wasp 28 with Jammer Pipe good luck so far. This is the big Croudpleazer body (LST,MGT). I will post a pict of the upgrade I did with T-Maxx Titanium tie rods to stiffen the chasis. Also is it true that the LSP pro has 3.5 mm shock shafts but are threaded for 3 mm shock ends?

[Monsterbrad]

Sweet looking rides guys!!!!!

[CRSMP5]

shock end question is correct.. they are 3mm ends but 3.5mm shaft, this step in the shaft is also the weak link as thats where my lp2 buggy breaks shafts.. rember argument a few pages ago over this discussion of racers edge aluminum shock ends... that guy is major wrong

me ive painted bodies on the outside, make sure to use waterbased paint, it drys flat/semi gloss, im usign createx, but parma is same stuff just alot more expensive (1-3$), both broncos bodies i have on my lsp the roll bars are painted from the outside and the black hood section on the silver/purple one is also from the outside..

ohh also, if you plan to paint it from the outside.. have some fun 1st, use some brown, copper, silver, chrome on the inside, then paint the outside, if the paint scratches/gets damaged it will look as if in real accedent and paint is damaged :D yes ive done that too..

[winning edge designs]

Keegy, I have painted alot of bodies from the outside for details, like lights, rollbar, bed covers, etc. anything you want to look flat in color. I use only Pactra paints, since they are the most durable and won't wash off if they get wet, etc. Some use Parma, etc. with good success though, but usually back it with pactra or similar for durabilty....kind if defeats the purpose of a water base if you use both typs, imo.

As far as shock ends go(not trying to fire it up, but...) I ran Racers Edge ends on my Revo, but Steve Slayden and the Traxxas engineer with him said it would cause broken shock ends......never broke though, but makes sense, since there is no Flex, just like our aluminum arms.......Jim

[CRSMP5]

no im talking about the argument on the 3.5mm vs the 3mm ends.. :) order 40$ worth and the 3.5mm no fit wanna talk about mad LHS owner...

have you ever tried createx? ive found that if i do not add any water, shoot at 60psi, and let it dry for a min of 2 days, in the summer i set body in trunk of car for 2 days which works even better (bakes the paint), that the paint is more durable then pactrica.. and to wash it, never been a issue with parma or createx if it sets for a few days to dry.. now if i set it in a bucket of hot soapy water for a few days i can get the paint back off, but it takes work to do it.. i tend to use a wet washcloth or babywipe to clean the bodies..

[winning edge designs]

Ah, I see......Couldn't a mugen or kyosho shaft work in the HB shocks using a 3.5mm end?

Well, as far as createx, unfortunatly I never have that kind of time. In fact i've frequently had to paint bodies in one night for a racer to run the next day.....This is with them getting me the body at 5pm that afternoon, LOL.....Sure gets expensive though! :).

I have seen bodies painted by others locally who use water base and i've seen and heard horror stories....I once saw a guy who washed out his body with simple green and the material washed off the lexan, apparently it hadn't been backed at all.

I guess like anything once you get a good system in place and are used to it, then it will treat you right...........I used to hate liquid mask, now I use it almost exclusively, LOL............Jim

[Keith-OH]

I am getting ready to place a order for more stuff so I can set it up right when it gets here. Can you tell me if this is good stuff to get?

For my center diff. Good stuff?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFTX7&P=7

Back up glow starter. Is there a better one?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXME72&P=ML

shock oils. How much do i need per shock?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMZ16&P=7
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXMZ17&P=7

I need a good loctite to hold screws in place. Does it really matter what one I get?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=glue&FVPROFIL=++&search=Go

front hinge pin plate: can I buy this online? My LHS is about 1 hour away. If so where at?

Air filter oil
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDDN4&P=ML


Thanks for the help guys,

Keith

[winning edge designs]

Same center diff fluid i'm using, so it must be good, :).

I'd prefer a glow ignitor with a meter, so you can see it's state of charge, as well as glow plug condition(open/bad or not).

I use TeamLosi shock oil ,but you won't find that at Tower, only a Horizon dealer, the A/E will work well also.

I'd just buy the loctite at the local auto parts....same stuff, much less money, or more loctite for the same price. By the way, Loctite is a brand, thread lock is the material, ;).

I got my Front plate from RCI Hobbies....I'll try and find the link.

That is good filter oil.....Jim

[CRSMP5]

look on tower.. they probally have the plate.. else atomic motorsports..

yea im also bad for the buy night before then use next day bodies...

yep kyosho/mugen/ofna 3.5mm fit.. just if i wanted to do that i could get bunches of plastic ends for less.. :) jut hb ends i have yet to find anyone with..

[Monsterbrad]

Anybody know where I can get the steering center link to make that stronger.
I have not bent it yet but I am sure this will happen

[Keegy]

thanks for the painting tips!

[gcobra16]

Thanks for clearing up the shock shaft issue. I think I will get alum. 3 mm. here is the pict of my chasis braces. They are the Proline Titanium ones for a T-Maxx. Perfect fit. I was surprized by the amount of flex in the LSP chasis. Most of the flex was were the clutch bell met the spur gear. These brases eliminated most all of the flex.

[Keegy]

what engine are you running in that? also what kind of air filter is that? i need a good upgraded engine but i am by no means a super tuning guru of any sorts...something thats powerful as hell but super easy to tune and install...also want to keep the rotostart happening...

[gcobra16]

This is the Wasp 28 with jammin pipe. The air filter is a Motor Saver. If you want easy tuning (this is just my opinion) I would look at an OS. I only have 7 tanks through this motor and now we have about 6" of snow. So far as I can tell this thing is going to rock. I am race director at our local track wich had 40 entries at our last race in the fall mostly MT. I won most of the big block races with a built Savage SS. With my new LSP it's going to be a cake walk.Selah R/C Raceway (http://selahrcraceway.homestead.com/index.html) Here is a pict. from the other side.

[CRSMP5]

id say mach 26 or the sport werks 26, you will have to do a back plate mod to reuse roto start, but on savage-central there is a parts list in the engine section index sticky...

[winning edge designs]

Sweet truck....I have been working on a similar chassis brace set-up, nice job.....Jim

[Keegy]

hi gcobra-
i poked around the web for the chassis brace and the TMaxx ones dont seem to be the same shape... did you find the chassis flex a big issue? would you recommend the upgrade? i couldnt fint the titanium ones by ProLine...where did you find them?
thanks!

[gcobra16]

These are the long tie rods that come in the Pro-Line A arm kit for the T-Maxx. I believe Lunsford supplies the tie rods for that kit. As I mentioned earier I was concerned with the flex. If you hold your truck by both bumpers and try to bend it in half you will see what I am talking about. It seems to me that this could have a negative effect on the clutch bell spur gear mesh.

[gcobra16]

I definetly agree with CRSMP5. The Mach 26 is real easy to tune, makes good power, and runs cool with stock head. That is the motor I raced last year. In fact I would of used it in my LSP but with center dif. configuration I believe RPMs are a plus and the Wasp will rev over 42,000.

[Monsterbrad]

I to am a fan of the Mach 26
its an awesome engine and its cheap and holds a tune very well.
I bought a new one and I am rebuilding my existing one for under 50 bucks.
I like the tie rod mod.
Do you have any part #'s for those rods?????
I would like to do that cause the chassis does flex a little to much which I have noticed with all flat chassis trucks and cars.

[gcobra16]

Here is a link for Titanium Tie Rods. Lundsford Tie Rods (https://www.ssl-stormerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/seekpart.pl?pn=PRO601300)

[Monsterbrad]

Thanks
what did you use for the hardware???
rod ends and all that???

[xxxkat]

Cobra are you using the stock servo?? Does anyone know the numbers of the stock servo..speed,torque.

[gcobra16]

Monsterbrad I acctually used Savage shock ends. xxxkat your correct I am using the stock steering servo. I have ordered the new titanium Hi-Tec servo, and will move the hot bodies steering servo to the throttle/brake. I read that these Hot Bodies servos are the same that come on a Savage RTR. I have built a couple of T-Maxxes, and a Savage SS so my tool box has lots of parts for both, thats how I came up whith the chasis braces. I am machining front/front, and front/rear hinge pin braces (thicker than stock). I will send picts. when complete. I wish Hot Bodies would do it to save me the trouble.

[Keith-OH]

Would these tires and rims be a good combo for my truck?

Pro-Line 40 Series Mambo Wheel 2.5 Maxx/Savage
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFSM6&P=ML


Pro-Line Bow Tie 40 Tires M2 (2)
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFNF9&P=ML

[Keegy]

as i heard from the rep at Hot Bodies, if you use a 40 series then you have to upgrade that steering servo...
i personally went for the IMEX pin dawgs and a back up set of regular TMaxx bowties using RC Raven machined aluminum lightweight 5 hole rims...
A question for who knows:
can u use the RCScrews set for the Savage for this LSP?
does the LSP share any of the same parts as the Savage? like the aluminum fiff cup upgrade???
thanx!

[Keegy]

hi GCobra-
will that motor saver filter fit on the stock LSP engines carb? i'm gonna run that stock for a little while till funds grow...
cheers.
keegy
PS. nice starter box!

[CRSMP5]

yes the motor saver fits, you will have to reuse th eoriginal 90* elbow unless you get one thats got that elbow

i would not change the diffcup unless your going for bling, ive changed alot of savages to lightning diffcups cause they are better then stock ones, cost 1/4 of aluminum and ill never have to worry that the diff pins will wear into said diffcup filling the diff with metal.


mambo wheels suck, they warp/bend/break, heck all the 14mm hex 40 series wheels do (or run the lovely spinner nuts at 6$ each has to be ordered direct thru proline), either go for the new 23mm hexes, or the sc adapters for a savage and outback welds.. no matter what you will require 24-40$ in adaprets/hexes/lugs

[xxxkat]

I share the same opinion about the 40's,I dont think you need that big of a tire on the LSP,I wish proline would make a lo pro tire that was as wide as the maxx bow tie.

[CRSMP5]

honestly the proline 40 series bowtie is only slightly wider then teh normal bowtie.. the 40 series wighs less also.. less rubber, rember rubber weighs more then plastic.. i love my 40 series bowties on outback weld wheels, i only use normal bowties when i want the sidewall to roll in teh turns for added traction, the 40s slide easier.. between teh 2 you can dial the truck in for the track your on

[Monsterbrad]

I also run the 40 series fuzzy and they work great.
I like to slide the truck through the corner and proved to work on the last race cause I kicked butt all three races including the main.
I have not had any serious crashes yet to bend the wheels so I can't say that they are the toughest but i have seen alot of other older regular style monster wheels bend.
Gcobra16
Hey let me know how much you will want for a set of those thicker holders and post the pics asap.
I might pick up a set from ya.

[gcobra16]

I actually have three Motor Savers. The one that fits the Savage also fits LSP but it comes up against the roll bar. This one has a shorter elbow, nice fit I thaught. I also agree with you guys about the 40 series, although my experience is with them was on a Savage (over 11 lbs.). Depending on the track suface I kind of have to lean torwards the standard Bowties. With the 40 series on a hard track it was real easy just to spin the tires. For instance look at a dragster with wrinkle walls, 40s with the short side walls are just to rigid. I have been able to run my LSP a few times with the stock motor before the snow came. With the standard Bowties I was able to throw that thing into a burm as I hard as I could, and it would roost around it like a M-Xer. it's awsome. The 40s true probably give a truck more stability through the turns providing you need it. I don't think the LSP needs it.

[spesh]

Got my Lightning last week and have loved every minute of it so far, some good tips in this thread with regards to what to sort before it breaks too :D Running pretty much out the box at the moment, only changed the shock oil so far although some heavy diff oil is going in the centre as soon as i can get some, front wheels ballooning like crazy on clay and a little on grass. Most of my racing over the summer (when it finally gets here) will be on grass so thats the setup i need to aim for, stock motor is staying for now also as its more than plenty for the class i will be in :D

[Monsterbrad]

Get some ofna 100,00 in the center diff
that will stop the wheels balooning on ya.
Grass racing thats something new?????

[CRSMP5]

grass.. got to try some panther plowboyz.. they shred grass when its well groomed.. :)

id rather clairify this on the forum rather then the PM sent to me.. id like all to see it...
steering servo for 40 series.. IMO it needs changed from the get go, it has plastic gears and well not ment for a offroad vehicle that gets jumped, so yes change it.. does not matter if 40 series or not. as far as needing one for 40 series, no, not if your running a light weight tire like a road rage or a bowtie.. the weight will be slightly different and not a issue, BUT throw a big joe on it the thing will laugh at ya..

ok.. 40 rim thats good
the outback weld with savage-central adapters for a savage
possibly the NEW still untested 23mm Hex ones that require hexadapters
and well.. the other 40 series wheels if you buy from proline the spinner nut directly at 6$ each..

[CRSMP5]

project ive been workign on since last thurs night, stripping down the pro1 and 2 buggies and tonight i finally got the lsp stripped down. im going thru each one for cleaning/race prep for this upcoming season, but the question is anyone need any specific pics of anything? it will probally be this weekend when i go to rebuild them all and now is the time for compairison photos or such, so let me know what ya wanna see

[spesh]

Grass is what the local club race on here, UK weather doesnt really favour clay/dirt tracks outdoors ;)

http://pwned.me.uk/~admin/June27-02.jpg <- the track as it was last year.


As for getting oils in the diff's - it would seem that i can get oil in the centre without removing it as there is a small grub allen bolt there so can pump some in via that with a syringe but i guess the front/rear will require dissasembling to get oil in them.

Could you suggest oil weights for front/rear/centre for grass running? The grass there is kept pretty well groomed.

are these the tires you mean?
http://www.teamduze.com/i/plowboy2.jpg

If so, could you suggest some wheels to fit them too?

and CRSMP5 - some pics of your setup with regards to droop would be good, if possible as, still being kinda new to this, its got me a little puzzled :p

[CRSMP5]

http://www.panther-rc.com/tmaxx.htm plowboy... any maxx sized wheel, i suggest rpm monster claws as they are lightweight and strong..

droop.. hmmm cannot say i can photo that, the screw goes into the control arm, it raises the arm upwards, i and many others use the screw to limit how far down the arm goes, do not want the shock limiting this as it breaks the shock end... i suggest stick a screw in, tighten her down and you will see what it does.. you will see the arm move upwards..

[Keegy]

i use the Panther bow ties TMaxx size and also really like the Imex pin dawgs as they are slightly shorter and less rounded than the panthers... they have just small rounded pins w/o the step...and theyre just a little cheaper...

[Keith-OH]

I was told yesterday the Panther Python is the new tire everyone likes at my local track.

http://www.panther-rc.com/Python-Flyer-10-04.gif

http://forums.******.net/showthread.php?t=55&page=2&pp=10&highlight=panther+python

[sutman]

Just like to say hello, got my self a LSP for Christmas and i am well impressed so far . I am from the UK and raced a SUT last year which I one the outlaw class at my local club :D "The Maxbashing Track" in Guildford, and got a prize of a sirio 27 10 port which i have fitted to my LSP. I have done couple of modes so far, but there's no rush as the race season doesn't start till the end of March :( , keep up the good work. Kev
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/sutman/Picture016b.jpg

[Keegy]

I was told yesterday the Panther Python is the new tire everyone likes at my local track.

http://www.panther-rc.com/Python-Flyer-10-04.gif

http://forums.******.net/showthread.php?t=55&page=2&pp=10&highlight=panther+python


yeh those panthers look awesome...
may get a pair when my Imex and Bowties are done...

[Monsterbrad]

Those panther tires look good but i did notice one thing.
They are alot like the bow ties and also the ones pictured are the direct fit for the Revo rims and remember the revo rims DO NOT have the standard lip that all other MT truck wheels do!!!
Sweet pic of the new LSP
sutman>
How do you like that .27 engine with the 10 ports????

[CRSMP5]

sweet xmas gift..

the revo wheels need to be modded, Robert knows the mod and yes im trying to decide if im going that way or with 40 series..

http://www.atomicmotorsports.com/main.htm is roberts webpages, he also sells HB parts and is a direct sales for them now also.. he was also dealign with panther, so check with him for the BEST deals on panther tires..

[Monsterbrad]

HEy CR havn't talked with you in a while.
Here is what I am dealing with here
Changing to the new 23mm adapters and what tire for bashing
???????????????????????????
I like the bow ties for racing so thats that.
I like the new 23 mm rims and adapters so thats what I am going with.
Any sugestions for tires would be cool
Race and Bash
???????
another race session this weekend for the LSP

[CRSMP5]

bashing on what kind of surface?

IMO the joe/masher weigh way too much for this truck..

[Monsterbrad]

This truck will just have the bow ties on it.
I mean for the other trucks.
Hey cr try to be on the net in the evening
want to chat with ya about this.
One of you guys that has done all the hop ups for this truck making it tougher.
List everything if you would for us reading this all the time and the new guys.

[sutman]

Monsterbrad well impressed with the .27 sirio so far its only had about six tanks so far, so much quicker than my SUT can't wait till racing starts.
Got a set of komodo dragons on RPM today, has anyone tired to dye RPM? what dye do you use?
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v488/sutman/Picture022a.jpg

[VMach]

What Clutchbell comes on the truck? What CB are you running for a small, med and large track and with what engine? I plan on pttuing a P5 or a VZ-B on my LSP when my order finially arrives.

[CRSMP5]

comes with a 13t cb, 50t spur, im using a 15t cb with my rossie 28 and use figer control for different size tracks

dye, rit is best, powder not liquid, find it in most stors around the laundry detergnt, i have 2 tone ones even

[Keegy]

here are my wheels and tires for the LSP... they are RC Raven wheels w IMEX pin dawg tires...
OH and CRSMP5- i loved your purple Bronco body and it totally inspired me to make one like yours...so in a way its a tribute to yours... i used silver metalflake and metallic purple backed with indy silver....it doesnt show in the lite but it totally sparkles like an old school Coney Island bumper car!

[CRSMP5]

kewl.. me and mb takled lastnight... i have some clear lsp bodies on order and im goign to paint him one to copy this..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/oldbodies/mk5.bmp

he likes the flames, the colors and how im goign to do ti will be unique.. he wants chrome/silver flames, black body, but then i suggested some candy tiips and coat the black section in candy red, spray it with silver metal flake, he likes metalic black, but IMO the black metalic lacks metalic to be real noticable, but the candy red will make the silver metal flake red =) and the candy red will give a sligh hue to th black to make it real deep looking.. now just gotta get teh bodies..

i called Robert of http://www.atomicmotorsports.com/main.htm today to ask how he was and check lightning and panther status, he says he has all the lightning parts thats avaliable in stock, his parts sheet needs updated, but today he was sendign parts to utah to get them cut in cf to sell, like radio tray, rear brace, center diff flex plate thinggy, and some other ods and ends, he also sent off instructions and screw bags to someone who is making us a alloy steel screw kit to sell for this beast thats supposed to be able to be gottn in a few weeks.. so it was a much worth while conversation like it always is..

he has chopped over a pound off his lsp also at the moment, we discussed the new panther tires for revo wheels and well cut bowties weigh 70 grams each less then they do.. so that kinda throws the panther tires out the window for now..

[winning edge designs]

sutman, that pic looks like a 1/6th scale buggy, LOL......People here have said they bottomed out way too much with the small diameter tires.....Have you run it yet with them?.......Jim, www.jconcepts.net

[Monsterbrad]

Well I ran mine a couple laps with the Komodos on and it was not bottoming out on me.
But then again I was not jumping any crazy jumps or anything like that but I was getting pretty good air over the camel back.
I liked them but to be honest I did not notice anything different in handleing other than the truck had more low end but not that much compared to the bow ties 40 series.
that was mt take on the komodos
but they do make this truck look crazy
Also when mounted on the imex rims with the super off set they look really really awesome and the truck is super wide!!

[andersun16]

I have found the ultimate upper chassis braces for the LSP - Use a set of Traxxas Revo P3 Rocker Arms (Part No. 5319X = $9.99/pr.). They require very little alteration to fit. They come in 7075 Aluminum and look pro. I originally got them to use one for the rear brace, then I found I could replace the turn buckle I was using in the front and have a matched set. The red doesn't go with the purple anno, but I like the pro look.

Front: Note - The rod is actually a smidge too long so I unthreaded one end, cut about 1/8 inch of the threads off with a pair of big wire cutter and cut about 1/8 inch off the plastic end and adjusted the length as needed. (You could probably muscle it on there without cutting it but you might get some adverse tweak in the chassis - I still thought about it though . . ). I used a throttle linkage collar as a standoff for clearance in the front - this will put added stress on the bolt, but I think overall stiffness should be better as this setup ties directly into the bulkhead (and bolts are cheap). I used a long bolt to get good bite in the bulkhead.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52002&stc=1

[andersun16]

Rear: Note-used a throttle linkage collar as a standoff to get enough clearance where it mounts to the rear lower chassis brace. The radio box opens/closes without any problem. Structurally, they will be strongest if you make them parallel with the chassis so plan accordingly. Also had to turn the throttle arm on the throttle barrel to eliminate interference - a small price to pay for such pimpin' style. :D

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52003&stc=1

[andersun16]

Here is the parts header from the package. They look so good you'll want to race with your body off.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=52004&stc=1

[sutman]

sutman, that pic looks like a 1/6th scale buggy, LOL......People here have said they bottomed out way too much with the small diameter tires.....Have you run it yet with them?.......Jim, www.jconcepts.net
Hi Jim no I haven't run them yet as we are having a talk about them on our forum maxbashing (http://www.maxbashing.com) at the moment to see if we can use them at the track. Don't want to get them dirty in case I have to sell them, would be a same. How big are the revo wheels compared to the 40 series? and are there any low profile tyres for them? kev

[CRSMP5]

revo wheels are close to 40 series, as i stated somewhere else, cut bowties weigh less then the new panther tires though.. rember the revo wheels need moded as their webbing is a issue on the lsp suspention..

lastnight i went to reassmble my LSP.. now that i have both the pro1 and pro2 buggies clean and the lsp, i was able to compair some parts.. a thing i found that i did not relize.. they also made the front longer besides the rear.. they are using a buggy rear driveshaft/cvd for the front center on the lsp.. they molded the shock towers out of a cut down and reinforced buggy front shock tower, and if you want lower cg yet, put the 47t spur in it with buggy diff holder to reduce the diff down another 1/8th inch :) the rossie with pull start max cb size with 50t spur (stock) is 15t due to pull start size, but with the 47t buggy spur you can fit the 18t cb also... but there is a negative to this mod.. the buggy diff holder is not as reinforced as the lsp one is..

the pro1/series 1 buggy tank is a direct fit to the lsp also, also the old 3mm series 1 engine plates, the purple pieces the engine bolts to is 4mm stock. we are talking about little changes that most will not feel, BUT for ultimate racers, cg is cg right?

i also found my rear suspention 4mm aluminum suspention plate was bent :( so its another item to keep a eye on...

[Monsterbrad]

Those are some good pics of a mod!!!!!!!!!
Thats what we need to see more of
I am going to do that mod when i can get to the HS and buy those rods.
Thats sweet!
andurson16
Hey how much does that improve the chassis flex
stock it does flex a bit in the center!
??????????????

[winning edge designs]

Anderson, you beat me to it, those are the parts i've been trying to find time to fit......Between Painting Bodies for customers, manufacturing bodies and my regular job, whew.....Anyway, good job!.......Jim, www.jconcepts.net

[Monsterbrad]

Well the truck is ready to rock for tomorow.
Looked everything over nothing looks bad checked all the screws and that the truck looks good after last time.
I am going to race it completely stock again minus the air filter and some oil changes and the Bow ties.
I'll let ya all know how it goes tomorrow night
c-ya

[CRSMP5]

the LHS i hate has more then 1 pair on the wall.. MB think i gave ya my # if you want some speak up cause if bruce comes out tomarrow he can bring them for ya..

[Monsterbrad]

Well I bought the 5318x ones I hope that they will work I am going to work on it now.
I like this idea it will get rid of the chassis flex I hope.

[andersun16]

MonsterBrad - This mod all but eliminates flex. The front was never really too bad after using the brace from the Lightning buggy, but the rod did help a bit. The rear was terrible - tons of flex despite the big plate brace that comes stock - I thing the plate is stiff enough, but the mounting method leaves a lot to be desired. With these rods it feels really stiff - like my BMI TC3 chassis! Any turnbuckle would work, but these rods just look more pro.

I'm planning on racing it tomorrow at a big indoor race in PA (Bumps & Jumps) so I'll know how it fares in the real world. I'm still running the stock motor/pipe so I may be down on power - it's a short track though so all I need is low end grunt.

Winning Edge - You guys sure do turn out some nice bodies - can't wait til you do the Jammin X1 (hint, hint). What do you charge for painting up a body? Also, how are things going with the BJ4 production? (I have no patience so I picked up the new Academy SB Pro.).

[Monsterbrad]

Where in PA are you racin andursun16??????
I am racing in Jefferson tomorrow.
I just did the tie rod mod first mod to the truck.
Works well but I can still flex the chassis a little by hand.
Oh well that makes it just that much stronger.
Can one of you guys post the pics of the a-arm mount mod again.
I am thinking about doing that also.
I know that cr had problems with his truck and the aluminum part that bolts to the gear boxes comming lose.
Let see some pics again!!!
Please????????

[CRSMP5]

as im rebuilding mine im retakign photos.. so ill get some "updated? ones after i get her all back together with things compairing thats ive been finding..

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR
how about the aluminum front brace ?????
you put that on yours yet.
I want one on mine

[andersun16]

The track is just outside of Harrisburg PA. The site is here. (http://www.bumpsandjumpsrc.com) Where is the track in Jefferson (where is Jefferson) and is it any good?

It's kind of tight but the surface is a phenomenal clay. Tomorrow is the first time they are doing 1/8 scale buggies there so I'm going for that and I'll probably drag the lsp along for some extra track time.

[Monsterbrad]

Its in Ohio at the Jefferson fair grounds.
Its tight and small but I like it.
It's a good challenge for the truck and there are alot of 1/8 scale buggies too.
I have the truck all ready to rip.
We'll see how tomorrow goes.

[winning edge designs]

Hey, for those interested in another bracing alternative I'm going to try......I have a Jammin X1(still haven't run it) that came with a center Z brace, it's a brace for the chassis center and looks like it will fit our LSP. The Ofna part number is #40579 and it will of course require drilling of the matching holes for the 4 mounting screws. It makes a bend right around the clutch bell, spur ger area in a Z kind of shape......Check it out at Ofna or Jammin's site.....Jim

[CRSMP5]

ive seen the z brace photos.. and yep that may work for it.. but on technical difficulty i give that a 10 for only the experianced users..

yea mine now has th ealuminum front brace and double stacked cross brace.. rember my 50$ lightning pro buggy i got used? well im taking things from it.. :) since i plan to get a xray in a month no need for 3 buggies right? so i have a box of a lightning pro 1 for spares, going to build the diffs and such for it, but then im covered, ill also have a buggy chassis i can throw on the stadium for short tracks where i want more steering and such... thats still one of the best investments ive ever made.. eventually ill get some plastic stadium suspention and build a 2 speed truggy from it for screwing around...

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean002.jpg
the purple one is a pro2 chassis, as you can seee th buggy front is more narrow, and total length differance is, see the 2 yellow dots, those are the rear most diff bulk screw holes, so they moved the rear diff a diff back.. can you see a 6 wheeled one of these? yes im demented..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean003.jpg
lsp shock tower sitting on a buggy frotn shock tower, you would have to redrill the current shock position holesbut if some sick person wanted to put LST shocks on their truggy, i think this would do it..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean004.jpg
size differance in the center diff holder pieces, it may not be much, but to lower the cg a tad more it would work

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean005.jpg
buggy brace all nestled into place.. :) if i went to a sries 1 fuel tank... you can mount a 2nd one on the other side of the driveshaft, i have not decided on to do or not to do as of yet.. im actually thinking a square piece of 4mm thick aluminum, placed under the center diff, going up to these lower mount holes may make the best front brace, i dislike mounting the rod as he has it above as that screw does get a work out and id rather mount it via the aluminum plate rather then the bulk screw.

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean006.jpg
double stacked draglink.. note how th esilver one is still bowed back a titch, even with all the holes lining up, beleive me when i found mine was bent in a bow (frown/smile) i was like this is unreal.. ive bent it 3x now.. so hope this will work..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean008.jpg
originally when i installed the rossie 28 i shimmed the engine up 3mm with brace pieces from a savage.. i finally cut out the chassis to drop it into place.. damb big pull starts..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/clean007.jpg
at the moment i have my added on rear brace like so, ive got a issue with the engine clearance and it will not fit on the engine side... but once i have the engine and radio box installed ill relook at it..

[sutman]

Good news, Boss man says yes we can use the komodo dragons at my local track which is great :) . So I can take them for a spin now, I'll let you know what I think Later.

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR that rear support rod may hit the radio box if you have not figured that out already.
Mine is all done raced it today.
1st place again took second in the second race cause the engine was 40 degree's and it would not start but still came out 2 laps down and took second.
Those guy are just crazy throttle lovers oh well
It was fun and the truck performed well.
I did how ever break the shock end off so here is the question.
Should I order more stockers or go with something else???????????
I put the Ofna one on for now but I want it right.
Shock ends though???????????????????????????????????
which ones????????????

[CRSMP5]

what ofna one did ya use that fit? and i have not seen stock ends anywhere avaliable ever over the past 2+ years..

if all else fails.. change shafts to mugen/ofna/kyosho 3.5mm ones and use their ends..

[Monsterbrad]

I have a set of 9.5 ofna ones that fit.
I had to move the screw over one position but it worked.
I am going to try the SUT ones and see if they will fit down in the arm.
Also how did you remedy the screws that hold the arms mounts to the gear cases???????
Mine are a little loose managed to get them snuged up but i was wondering how you fixed this???
Anybody else I know this was brought up a while ago?????????
Arms mounts that hook to the gear boxes??????????

[Keith-OH]

I just got home from the local track. There was 2 LSP there today. One guy tried 4 differernt kinds of tires. Other guy was using stock tires cut down to fit on 40 series rims. Those stock tired hooked very well cut down and put on 40 series on the damp track. I cant wait to get my truck. It should be here next week.


Keith

[CRSMP5]

i used lots of ca.. seems to work good.. use ca like its loctite on the diff mounting bolts to the chassis, the brace to the bellcranks, and that mount.. the plastic diff case gets a major workout.. but then there is nothing else that gives the screws have too.. diff case =5$ so its a cheap fit though..

my lsp and pro2 are backtogther.. i need to get a few bags of screws or the screw kit Robert is working on then ill be able to put the pro1 backtogether, well its major components at least, still have to decide what im going to do with it..

[Monsterbrad]

Well I will try that.
I have to do something about the shock ends though.
you on cr sign on aim I am on right now!

[CRSMP5]

your not on now.. LOL..

[andersun16]

Things went OK with the LSP. got a good 1st qualifier in, then broke a front hub carrier in the second qualifier. Used zip ties to hold it together for the A main but the didn't last (I didn't think they would, but you gotta try ;) Are the hub carriers on the LSP the same as on the Lightning buggy?

Also, forget what I said about the stock motor - the boys brought some hardware this weekend and I was out-motored. This is unacceptable. I want to get something real good (Rossi 28?, Sirio 27?) but I have a Mach 26 new in the box with a rotostart on it so it would go right on (I am DONE with pull starts - never again).

My question is: Has anybody used a Mach 26 on an MT and will it hold it's own on the track?

[Bibious]

Hello Everyone,
I've reading your forum for the last couple of weeks and recently bought a Lightning stadium RR.
Well my truck finally arrived last week and I broke it in this past weekend. I have to say I already love this truck! I am having one issue with it that I was hoping someone could give me some pointers on. The truck is one hundred percent pure stock right now.
I have some difficulty getting the engine started - I usually have to open the throttle up a bit before it will start. I have to hold the throttle open slightly to keep the truck idling. Also when I give it some gas at this point the truck sometimes shuts down on me. This all usually happens at low temps when I get the temp up (if I get it up) it seems to run a lot better. Any ideas on how/what I should be tuning to fix this problem?


And man does this truck have a tremendous amount of low end! I took it out to a dusty area and it was spitting clouds of dust everywhere! :)

[Monsterbrad]

bib
you either have the idle to low or your high end is to rich that will make it stall when trying to start.
So check those 2
also what temps are the engine at??
you want about 230 with this engine depending on weather...
andursun
I broke a shock end but I think it was due to the fact that there was 2 races on the truck with no limiters in the rear to stop the arm from using the shock as a stop.
Plus the little track is not full of jumps so it gives the suspension a work out.
I did really well except for when the motor cooled down to 40 degree's and I could not get it fired so I was down almost to laps and still came in second.
After that I kept the engine temps higher and got first place again in the other 2 heats and the main.
As far as the Mach .26 I have 2 one is new the other is being rebuilt and the LST rips for being stock but you are comparing a geared monster truck to a single speed truck so I am not sure but that's what I am going to try when the summer gets here.
If thats not enough then I am going to go with something rossi or picco because I don't like to fight with engines that won't run the same all the time but the Mach over all is a good engine.
Just don't run 30% in it with out a head shim :-)

[winning edge designs]

Bibious, if your truck runs good at higher throttle positions and once a little warmer, your settings are too rich, most likely on the bottom end. If the top end is off, it will run rich all the time, but could still run decent on the bottom if the bottom was set closer to perfect. Try turning in the bottom a 1/4 turn(clockwise) leaner and retest it, if it gets a little better, but still isn't running right, after clearing it out with a couple throttle openings to rev the engine a little, try another 1/4 turn. The trick is to sneek up on the right settings without over doing it. Once it runs fair at low speed use smaller adjustments, usually 1/16th turn at a time.............The thing to remember is if your top end needle is way off, you'll have to reset the low end as well, small changes won't be a problem, but big ones will require resetting it...................Hope this helps, Jim

[CRSMP5]

one thing no one asked.. bibious what glow plug? if its the original one change her out, you will be suprised at how a bad glow plug is th eroot of all evil in cooler weather..

next, mb, his truck could also be rich on the LSN OR too lean.. ive found the LSN causes more issues on start up then anything else..

so my suggestions, change glow plug, if its under 40f outside get a hot plug for the next few months till temps go up.. i run HOT plug year round with no issue.. set the mixture where th smoke is steady.. mb tell him this trick that i showed you, maybe you can word it better then me..

now mach with "roto start" if your speakign of the lst start system, not going to work.. the back plate is way too big for this truggy, you need to do the xtm backplate mod, use the original roto start set up at that point.. its listed in the index of savage-central in the engine section, titled something like who to fit roto start to your mach 26... it uses a xtm backplate and 1 way bearing, but makes the back plate the size of the stock one...

[CRSMP5]

c hub.. almost forgot.. yes same as the series 1 version buggy, the series 2 is different and with out knowing what your doing is not a good thing to try, it is also the same as the gs storm, kyosho buggies..

[spesh]

25% ok on the stock motor?

[Monsterbrad]

spesh
you should be ok but remember that these engines are designed to run with 20% so that is what they will run the best on.
But 25% you should have no problems cause its only 5% more but I would try to stick with 20%.
Ok here is what CR was talkin about with the smoke thing.
Yeah some guys don't agree with this but I do so just bear with us on this.
When you are running the truck at WOT (wide open throttle) for extended periods of time and you see no more smoke that means that you are leaning the truck out past the safe limit and there is very little oil in the engine damage is occuring yeah the engine will take alot of this but try to avoid this unless you just don't care about the engine anymore.
When tuning for the track try to tune the engine so that you have a steady stream of smoke all the way down the straight away and it should lessen right before you let off to turn the corner.
I like this idea but I just try to tune for best power and temperature....
Just keep in mind that there engine's are liquid cooled by the oil as well as outside air temperature.
No smoke not that much oil inside the engine, yeah some newer fuels provide cooling even with little smoke but then again we are trying to get alot of use out of our engines too.
Hope this helps

[Bibious]

You guys rock, thanks for helping me out.
Here is some more information on my settings.
Temp here is always between 73-80 Degrees F
I fouled out the stock plug during break in, and switched to a LC 3 Plug (I think its an OS plug) said it was long and hot, I fouled that also after a few tanks. Right now I think I am using a Mcoy #9. It was the only plug I had left over from my T-Maxx. I though the LSN was running to lean when I was out before, I turned it about 1/8 richer and it seems to get better but could not really tell as it still bogged out on me a few times. Also my temps are definitely hotter than 230 degrees. On sunday I ran it hard it hard for a few mins half-full throttle burst and brough it in for a temp check and it was clocking around 280 degrees. At one point I hit 305! I am guesssing this is cause I had the body on (non-cut) I quickly shut it down and let it cool. CR you suggest I use a hot plug? Hope this info helps and thanks agian for all the help!

[Keegy]

cut the body holes! and i use OS medium hot long plugs... you need like 2-3 for break in... i keep like 5 around always...

[CRSMP5]

mc9 is a cold plug, it fouls out easy which is how it stalls easily... ive never had success with a cold plug, the most ill go is a med plug, but its got to be close to 90f for me to do that.. just rember the fuel's oil fouls the plug.. if you have the LSN rich it does not help.. also a thing alot of people do is run the LSN rich, then lean the HSN to compensate for it but all this does is makes it run hot and inconsistant..

mb did not hit the nail on the head, so ill state a tuning trick that i showed him, he left out the LSN aspect to it..

the trick is to make the smoke steady, basically do a few WOT passes, then come to a stop, count to 3 then ease into the throttle till back at WOT. pay attention to teh smoke trail, if you see more smoke at take off then steady less till the engine rpm is peaked out then the bottom end is too rich and most likely the high speed is too lean, bring it back to you, lean out the LSN 1/16th a turn and do it again.. what you will find is if the HSN is too rich/lean the smoke will become more/less at half throttle.. once you have the smoke steady and consistant you will find the bog at idle is far less, starting is much easier.

i take this theory a step further... i find the longest section of the track, add on 25-50ft and use this longest point at the WOT timming for the pass.. the goal is to not be lean at the end of the longest point, but also not be rich so the power is smooth comming out of turns.. this helps when i get to the diffrent tracks i run on, some small.. some with over 200ft long straights.. if i run a big track tune on a small track i loose alot of responsiveness in turns, ive actually found that on soem of the smaller tracks, like the one i showed mb on, ive foudn that im running on the LSN 90% of the time and for the few under 5 sec the straight is is the only point where im in the HSN, so i lean the LSN as much as possible, and richen the HSN for added cooling in this point.. but the track with the 200ft straight is slightly different, you run so much on the HSN that you need it to be right where its not lean, but have to be carefull with tuning as when you richen the LSN to help cool it most do the bad thing of compensation by leaning the HSN more.. if you follow the smoke, if its consistant, oil residue is comming from the pipe, then check temps just as a point of referance..

another thing, i have yet to find any 2 temp guns, even the pricy raytech, to give the same temps on different engines, with a duratrash one, radio shack one, raytech one, on 3 different engines each would show different temps in different ranges.. one engine the rat shack one would show a good tmp, others too cold too hot, then another engine the raytech is in the middle so on.. i do not trust any temp guns.. they are made for a referance to know what your setting is, but dont beleive the number you see..

next os makes short plugs.. not long ones.. a mc is a long plug.. so if you did not know that keegy take a mc and a os, set them side by side, there is about 1.5 threads more on the long plug.. thats whats ment by a long vs short plug..

[Monsterbrad]

Wel said cr
My engine in the LSP likes to run about 240 250 range to run good!
I have just gotten used to tuning by smoke and using the temp gun as a reference.
Many people have all kinds of different ways of tuning these little engine's.
some guys tune for maximum everything and some guys like me try to go for the most amount of power well still being safe about it.

[CRSMP5]

i know mb.. but i can say after years of these little engines, so far this is the most consistant way ive found to be good for months on tune.. i was runnign a tune on a engine from 80f to under 40f and it was still stayign as constant as it ever was, still putting oil out of the pipe, and engine temps same as the hot days.. rember im using a temp as a ref.. was 268f on the rossie 28, same fuel, same glow plugs, just ambeient temps changed.. then i went and changed the pipe, ended up leaning the lsn a bit too much, when too lean by 1/16th a turn it smokes clutch shoes, after 4min due to all the power it has.. pretty bad when your racing and can tell when your too lean/rich.. by ho wthe clutch works..

also if you start to follow the smoke now, during a race, when you notice a hesitation/bog at a point on the track, as the temps change during the day or say you changed the glow plug, you know what needle to turn what direction.. there is a definate change in the smoke between lsn and hsn, just for most to learn where this takes place is difficult..

i think i spent around a tank of fuel with mb on this.. he changed the settings after that and found himself going back to what i had done..

all i can say is this.. put the temp gun away and give this method a try.. also do it when its not real cold out.. try it when you no have smoke comming from your mouth unless you can see the differance in that smoke comming from teh pipe..

[Monsterbrad]

This just gets to technical sometimes and everybody has a different way of tuning for the best power.
CR goes by sound and smoke
others go by temp and response
oh well

[winning edge designs]

It's really just a matter of weighing your desired power vs. your wallet depth. Te deeper your wallet is, the further you can push the tune-up. If you don't have a deep pocket, then it is always better to error on the rich side, as long as the engine will idle for 10-15 seconds and gets down the straight at a decent pace, your fine.

I don't think any one tuning aid is more important then the others, I always tune for power, while watching the temps, trying to stay under a certain thresh hold, based on cooling head size, engine size, fuel type, etc. As long as an engine is tuned from the rich side and kept in a reasonable range from the rich side, there will be no need for a temp probe. Temp probes are best for when your pushing the tune-up to the edge....You can't properly tune any engine for near maximum performance without considering every possibility, sound, feel, temp, smoke from exhaust. The best use every method to be sure they are headed in the right direction. Even though reading a glow plug is the number one way to tell what is going on in any engine, most don't spend much time looking for signs of trouble in the plug, but should......Jim

[andersun16]

On Sunday I broke my right front hub carrier. The LHS had none but they did have an OFNA hub carrier. It mounted up perfectly and they cost about $10.00 a set. I got the 17 degree C hubs as that is what comes stock (and that is all they had!). I had to reset the front camber a bit so there must be a slight difference, but that's not too bad. It's kind of nice that a lot of the buggy stuff is becoming standardized allowing you to "outsource" parts.

Also, if anybody is interested, I'm going to sell my stock engine/pipe/RotoStart - only has about 12 tanks through it - First $75 takes it.

(I'm canning the Mach 26 idea - I'm just going to bite the bullet and get a Novarossi 28 and a starter box and be done with it!)

[Monsterbrad]

let us know how that new Rossi goes....
I have wanted to do that but my job is getting slow and the lay off probably is comming.
But keep us posted cause I am sick of the stick starter.
Yeah alot of parts are retro fit for this truck it's cool...

[CRSMP5]

i like my rossi 28... but i really want the new rb 28 race version (i also have the original rb 28 5 port in my savage i like it a titch more then the rossi, but rossi has smaller less cooling head for this time of year), but i have a thing for pullstarts that it lacks..

[andersun16]

I think once we get to this high-end level of motor (RB, Rossi, O.S., Sirio) it's kind of a wash - they are all pretty good. I'm actually even considering getting an O.S. Vspec for it. I have one in my Jammin buggy and that motor is just awesome. I just thought the extra grunt from a bigger motor might do better in an MT even if it is a truggy. I'm still on the fence.

[CRSMP5]

id go for bigger then 21 for only 1 reason.. bottom end torque.. i have a ws7II and have had it in the savage, it pulls wheelies with ease, but the 28 5 port just has so much more bottom end that it makes it very impressive, i can gear it up with no issues where a 17t on the savage is pushing it with a ws7II as it starts to put a big load on the engine..

os does not make a bigger then 21 yet that i know of, and ive tried a sirro 27 and was unimpressed vs the rossie/rb.. but the rb race uses a completly different block then the rossie or even the original rb 28.. im just waiting for th epull start version of it to test it out... im working on taliking mike into a rossie 8 port for the lsp he has on order.. so they can be compaired.. :)

[Bibious]

Hey CR what would you suggest...
My glow plug choices down here are pretty limited (Island on only one hobby shop)
So here are my choices.
OS #3
OS #5
OS #8
LC #3

I just bought two number 8s but I can exchange them if need be. I couldnt seem to find any info on the burn styles of them (hold cold med etc)

Thank again for your help.

[CRSMP5]

http://members.aol.com/crsmp5/rc/glowplug.jpg

;)

[Monsterbrad]

WEll I am happy to say that my plug that I pulled out of the 26 look like # 4.
This engine runs great right where it is at but I do think that's its a little lean but I have it tuned that way for racing.
It's hard to run the engines this time of year at the track cause they go from 40 degrees to 250 in 2 mins.
Kinda hard on them so I was trying to keep the Truck infront of the heater to keep the block and head warm.
I did notice when I was at the track the this stock engine would not start when it was below 60 degrees.

[CRSMP5]

yea engines are hard to start when cold.. the above photo, is just a great referance for glow plug looks and it has the temp ranges of them also...

i was talking to glenn from http://www.get-screwed.com/ and well, i may have a lsp screw kit next week to test fit to my lsp.. :) his savage kits are great, he is thinking of making a revo, hpi mt2, and a few other kits also.. so if your interested in one, give him a shout and let him know.. i compiled a massive screw list for him lastnight of the v1 buggy, v2 buggy and the stadium and he is planning on making 1 kit to cover all of them.. this gives a advantage as it will have the steering knuckle screws for the 22* v2 caster blocks (aka c hubs also the stock can be modded for this fitting for less caster aka stock stadium set up) that i bet can be retro fitted to the stadium very easily which will also change/lower the roll center on the front end..

just wanted to keep ya up to date.. im still waiting for roberts screw kit info to be presented.. then it will be a real tough choice on which i prefer to have..

[Monsterbrad]

I too tore that article out of the mag and kept it for reference.
Hey CR any word on that LSP body yet??????
I can't wait for a new look!!!!!!

[Keith-OH]

I am tired of waiting for my truck to come in. They have the non pro in stock. Should i wait for the pro or not? They said it will be 10 more days untill the pro comes in.

[Monsterbrad]

wait for the pro version......
it's worth it trust me
CR will agree with me also!!!!!

[CRSMP5]

should be getting the body next week it shipps to the lhs on the 14th aka today if all goes as expected.. the lsp mike ordered is supposed to be shipped to the lhs tomarrow, so wait for your pro version, the draglinks are also supposed to be there with the bodies.. :)

also, not next weekend, hmm will be weekend your in columbus, ill be in erie for the indoor track there.. someone ive known for a few years lives 2 blocks away.. his friend just got a revo and he is thinking of buying a truck now.. so he wants to see what ive got.. :D

[andersun16]

Screw kits for the LSP at www.tonysscrews.com!!!

http://www.tony1034.com/prod04.htm

[vbgagnon]

Hey guys, Between the stock engine and a hyper 8 port which one would you go with?

[CRSMP5]

well they 8 port has 1 bad feature.. teh carb is junk, it requires a good carb to keep aconsistant tune, its like 60$ new from os.. with that carb, a 12t cb, maybe 13t gotta try it, it should be nice, but it will lack the torque to have a big cb on it

[vbgagnon]

Thats what I was wondering, I'm gettin the truck in a trade and I'm not sure if I should keep my engine or get the one that comes on the truck. Ahhhh....what to do...what to do...

[CRSMP5]

well 130$ engine, 60$ carb is almost 200.. can find a hell fo a engine for that IMO

[GasGod]

Hey John--I think that >26 will look good in my Sav-- If ya still want ta get rid of it -- I'll take it ;) And that pro hangin' up is calling to me-- :D What da ya think-- :eek: wonder what kind of deal Greg will give me??

[kuhn2373]

what motor are you guys running in your stadiums?I need to make a decision

[spesh]

still stock in mine, and will be until the summer season starts and i see how well it does. Still half tempted to go the hyper7 route for racing and keep this for bashing, but untill i see what pans out with my local club class wise I aint making a decision or spending a big chunk on a posh motor ;)

[gcobra16]

Not a bad Fit.

Check out my new Web site. It shows the LST pro with the big Crowdpleazer body. The Pit Stop (http://www.elltel.net/thepitstop/)

[spesh]

that looks pretty funky :)

Hows the thickness compare of that shell with the stock one? am impressed at how the stock shell is holding up to the abuse i am giving it at the moment

[gcobra16]

I agree the stock body holds up really well. If you go to the web site I linked and look at the Photo album there is a pict of my race body.

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/cuda3004.jpg

my cuda.. LOL..

but mine looks alot lower.. what ya got holding yours up?

[gcobra16]

Just baught new body mounts. They come really long. You have to cut them to the length you need.

[loadleft]

what motor are you guys running in your stadiums?I need to make a decision

V-Spec and Loving it!!!

[gcobra16]

Wasp 28, UE 4 shoe clutch, & Jammin Pipe.

[sutman]

Mine has sirio .27 8 port with a fioroni turbo sliding clutch.

[gcobra16]

How do you like the fioroni Clutch. There are a couple of clutches out there like that one, and I am looking to try one. That's one thing about running these big block motors getting a clutch to hold up.

[gcobra16]

Check out my new web site. The photo album shows my LSP. The Pit Stop (http://www.elltel.net/thepitstop/)

[Monsterbrad]

I am still running the stock clutch and it seems to be holding up well..
The only real problem I am having is the drag link on the steering is bending up a little and the stock shock ends suck.
Other than that this truck is really really impressing me.
Love it on the track!!!!!
Hey CR I will be in erie this weekend!!!
Check aol this week I will be on probably every night for a little bit any way..

[CRSMP5]

i know.. im planning to paint yup your body fri night/sat to delever it to ya at the track sunday.. just hope hb sent it to the LHS. :) and with all luck the draglink will be there too..

i have the gpm slider on my rb 28 with aluminum shoes.. works great, but the flywheel is starting to wear alittle.. so far from cost effective.. i knwo of othrs that used th eflourini one, but they melt clutch shoes easily and are also not cheap to buy..

[Monsterbrad]

Hey how about the mugen aluminum shoes
I have heard they are good also....

[spesh]

with regards to bowties ... 40 series or not?

[gcobra16]

So the GPM clutch holds up o-k. You said the flywheel is wearing out. Would that be the two ears that stick out? What spring combo are you using (1,2,3)? I am thinking about getting this clutch for my Wasp 28. looks like there only about $40.00. Do recomend Aluminum Shoes for this set up?

[sutman]

How do you like the fioroni Clutch. There are a couple of clutches out there like that one, and I am looking to try one. That's one thing about running these big block motors getting a clutch to hold up.
I raced all last season with the fioroni clutch fitted with carbon shoes in my SUT with the mt 25 engine and had no problems, great clutch :)

[Monsterbrad]

Fioroni clutches are expensive though!!!
I like the ofna composit shoes and I have heard like I said earlier that the new Mugen aluminum shoes are awesome also!!!!

[gcobra16]

I raced all last season with the fioroni clutch fitted with carbon shoes in my SUT with the mt 25 engine and had no problems, great clutch :)
Do you have a link to Fioroni Clutch?

[CRSMP5]

i melted a set of mugen aluminum in under 20 min of racing.. with the rossie 3 port 28.. so nada..

the flywheel ears are wearing where the clutch loads and unloads on the gpm flywhel with aluminum shoes.. before i went to aluminum shoes on ti i asked around with people runnign ws7IIs and stuff and they had really really bad luck with the fluronie clutch shoes.. they are not made for high torque applications IMO a buggy with a 21 that has little bottom end and lots of RPM is more what they are made for.. but even a ws7II in a buggy ate them fast.. springs, i tried 3 too stiff would not work, so i have 2 on it.. i cannot se them workign with 1 spring as the clutch would tip in the flywheel..

[CRSMP5]

bowties.. depends on teh track.. i stated elsewhere.. if im on a tight lots of turns track where i need lots of traction in turns i run standard with soft foams, on a track i can drift thru turns i use 40 series..

[CRSMP5]

mb how did ya do at the races today i guess there were 4 stadiums, 2 left eirly, and the 3 day old non pro finished 2nd..

[gcobra16]

i melted a set of mugen aluminum in under 20 min of racing.. with the rossie 3 port 28.. so nada..

the flywheel ears are wearing where the clutch loads and unloads on the gpm flywhel with aluminum shoes.. before i went to aluminum shoes on ti i asked around with people runnign ws7IIs and stuff and they had really really bad luck with the fluronie clutch shoes.. they are not made for high torque applications IMO a buggy with a 21 that has little bottom end and lots of RPM is more what they are made for.. but even a ws7II in a buggy ate them fast.. springs, i tried 3 too stiff would not work, so i have 2 on it.. i cannot se them workign with 1 spring as the clutch would tip in the flywheel..
So in your opinion the GPM Clutch with 2 springs, and GPM aluminum shoes?

[CRSMP5]

yes if you understand, the flywheel will wear.. thats what im tryign to say is the flywheel will wear.. the shoes look new, just the flywheel in 2 gal is showing slight wear.. ive seen photos of others who wore alot more but have more fuel thru them..

im waiting till it warms up, over 50f, to put my rb 28 into the stadium with the clutch set up to see how it works.. its on my rb28 if you could not figure it out, at this same time ill be able to compair it to mikes rossi 28 8 port he is getting and around that same time i plan to have a rb 28 race version to also compair.. but at this current moment, the rossi 3 port is eating clutch shoes in a race day, well mugen composite is 1/2 worn, lasted longer then the aluminum ones did though, this has become a issue since it hit the 4 gal point on the engine.. must be broken in finally... :) i just refuse to borrow parts from other engines to study the effects.. also the rb28 has slightly less bottom end and more top end then the rossi 3 port so that may scavenge clutch life..

mb had clutch issues with his sut truggy.. im starting to think its due to being a truggy and lacking the gear reduction savages and other mts have.. its just i refuse to spend alot of money on clutch shoes when they only last 1 day of racing..

[gcobra16]

Looks like extra clutch shoes will be in order. Does any one know of something better?

[Bibious]

Hey CR thanks for the glow plug chart. FYI - Changed to a OS #8 plug and my truck fiires up np and idles nice w/o any throttle. Of course now I have another problem; i apparently broke my radio, I must have hit the atenna on something cause when I pulled it out to extend it the entire thing came out. Long story short opened it up found the plastic brace was broken and did a quick job wtih some glue and a heat gun and did a quick fix. Unfortunately I must have hit something cause now my servos are reversed and the switches dont work to reverse them back to normal. Was actually pretty fun yesterday when I applied the brake to go mess with it and the thing took off into my leg. I am going to swap out the electronics with an Airtronic MX 3 and a Hitec 645 MG servo for the steering. Anyone have input on this set up? I am basically just bashing with this truggy right now and might be racing in the future if we get a track built down here. Our racing "rules" will probably be very relaxed as whoever has a nitro powered vehicle can enter. Another question I had is where are you guys getting your spare parts from? I noticed on tower most are on order and pending order etc etc.

Thanks again for all your help - I run this truck for only 2 weekends and I have probably clocked at least the same amount of run time as I got with my T-maxx over the course of one full year!

[loadleft]

I want to know what type of shock springs are you guys using for tuning? I bought the Hot Bodies Light Blue springs but I can't tell any difference between them and the stock black ones even using my Losi Spring tester. I bought Mugen Rears and they all seem to soft! I bought all three versions they have and with the heaviest springs I have to use a ton of pre-load spacers just to get the arms level. I guess next I'll be trying Kyosho Rears but I wanted to konw if anyone else had a better Idea.

[gcobra16]

Stock & a few spacers have worked for me. I did change the oil to 45WT.

[gcobra16]

Hey CSMP5 what do you think of this clutch Werks Power Clutch (http://werksracing.com/clutch.jsp)

[CRSMP5]

never tried the werks.. i have the issue of i want to be able to replace clutch shoes easily, try to find spares and price them, ive heard it works great.. but like the GPM one, the original shoes, aka not aluminum, lasted under 3 tanks of fuel, so then i had to spend MORE money on new shoes and beleive me replacement aluminum was far from cheap.. i just dont have deep enough pockets for blowign it on clutches.. id rather buy a simple shoe set up that i can replace easily, and that dont cost as much as the day of racing...

[Mr. Constructor]

Hello guys,

hopefully this hadn´t been asked yet:


The chassis plate of the Truggy (the stadium pro or the normal one, i think they share the same chassis) is it angled in the front (or maybe even the back??), or only in the middle for strenght ??
(most 8th buggies are angled in the front, that´s why i´m asking)

Thanks for your helping, this looked like a next Brushless conversion to me !!

[CRSMP5]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1653896&postcount=418
thread of chassis photos..

yes it has "kick up" what your asking, it looks to be the same as the buggy, but the chassis are big time different in size.. the lengthened the front end some and the rear end alot..

mb the bodies not going to be in thsi week.. will be next week.. :rolleyes: getting shipped to the LHS fri from what i understand..

[Monsterbrad]

Cr thats cool I can wait...
It's so freakin cold here now I am thinking about skipping this week..
I was not there this past weekend.
As far as springs for this truck I am still running the stock ones and they work great.
Also I am still running the stock clutch and have had no problems yet.
I have thought about a different clutch seeing's how these clutches are a pin in the ass to change the shoes.

[Mr. Constructor]

Thanks for helping !!
(i´m designing conversion kits for these cars (the buggy is ready, but the Truck was a difference as it is hard to get em here in germany (the new importer LRP has nothing in stock yet !!)

[CRSMP5]

not a problem.. i figured that thread would help as you can see the differance in total length, the fact they streched the front end, and so on..

[Monsterbrad]

thats true for anybody new reading this this truck is not just a buggy with longer arms!!!!!!
I thought it was at first till I saw Cr's truck then I had to have one...

[CRSMP5]

dont forget mb.. you also had a gs sut.. so you can really appreciate the differance..

[Monsterbrad]

yeah the SUT is just a play toy after this truck..
Pics do this truck no justice just have to hold one and see one to believe it.
AWESOME is the only word for it.....