Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium (PRO/RTR) [Archive] - Page 3

Keith-OH

01-21-2005, 12:24 AM

I was using a Duratrax flashpoint to check my temps. Truck looks to be rich but still hot with this guage. It is smoking good with a lot of oil comming out at idle. How do I tell when your crank is at the bottom of the stroke? I cant tell any difference in tention when turning it. And for the stop screws in the arms. Our we talking about the small screw with the allen head on the inside of the arm? If so how far do you run the screw though the bottom of the arm?

vbgagnon

01-21-2005, 05:45 AM

Is the hotbodies .26 the same engine as the savage? I'm thinking that I can do the same mod as the savage engine mod.

CRSMP5

01-21-2005, 09:36 AM

its punched out vs a savage.. but the p&s will fit the savage.. so yea is say you can..

there is a bag with 4 long set screws, aka allen heds inside the threaded body, i say stick them intot he arm and screw in untill the arm sits alittle higher then the lowest point the arms rest at..

mb i also got a extra front hing pin brace.. incase you did not have one.. i got like under 6$ in the 2 items :) but i also got spares for the tool/pit box on top of that for others with these truggies so they just gotta see me for them.. i actually bought 5 cross braces and 3 front braces.. i left 1 of each on the wall at the LHS and took the rest, and mike got his one of each.. i have a silver one showing up in the mail today also.. mike ordered it, but incause you want silver over purple you have that option also.. he wants purple... if your up for a road trip let me know.. else i can mail to ya..

depending on the settings on the duratrash temp gun, you can read 50+ over what it actually is pretty easily.. trust the smoke, oil and if you can tough the head with bare hand test.. you should be able to touch the head for 2-5 sec before it gets too hot to hold..

vbgagnon

01-21-2005, 10:56 AM

What do you mean its "punched out" vs a savage?

CRSMP5

01-21-2005, 11:10 AM

its a 26 vs a 25 so the pistion is bigger.. aka punched out..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/40s23mm001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/40s23mm002.jpg

looking more buggy like with 23mm hex wheels.. :D

Neil McRae

01-21-2005, 12:12 PM

Folks,
I'm in Boston for a week in March - anyone know were I can pick one of these up local? Thanks.

Neil.

Monsterbrad

01-21-2005, 07:10 PM

hey CR you went with the 23mm hexes I see
I LIKE IT ALOT !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Another new idea for me
Any way here is the question?????????
How much fuel line is save to run around the head I have run out of gas in the 7 min main 1 to many times and I have to fix this problem...
I have about 3-1/2 ft around the head through 2 filters and then into the engine
Is this cool?????????????

CRSMP5

01-21-2005, 08:37 PM

i have 3 ft on mine.. so yea.. just make sure to top it off before the 10 sec start buzzer thinggy..

Duster_360

01-21-2005, 10:08 PM

Keith-OH - take glo plug out. I break one end off a paper Qtip and put that end into the cyl on top the piston. Rotate flywheel until you see Qtip at its lowest point. I put a mark (sharpie) on the flywheel where you can see it. When you want piston at bottom, rotate flywheel to where you can see your mark.

gr8taz nitro

01-21-2005, 10:19 PM

Just picked up my LSP yesterday and I am very impressed to say the least. I've been running a Lightning Pro buggy for two seasons now and decided to retire my 21 maxx finally. One of the guys that I race with saw my truck and immediately ordered one for himself. I must have a second run truck because I don't have the bottoming out problem with the front diff cups that was mentioned earlier in the thread. Quick question, will the kyosho draglink from the 7.5 buggy fit, I found a place that has the hardcore racing titanium draglinks on clearance.
Thinking about trying one of the new peak diablo 28 engines for the race season, anybody have one or heard anything about em?

Monsterbrad

01-21-2005, 11:48 PM

Took mine apart tonight and glued the screw in that hold the a-arms on
went over a few things all looks good so far...

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 12:22 AM

let us know on the draglink.... i myself wondered that but no one stocks kyosho parts for me to find out..

the engine, on central there is a thread on it.. i have not looked into it as well.. im still waiting on a rb 28 race version for my lsp.. :D and have a rossi 28 3 port, a rb 28 5 port, and i have one of the new savage ss 28s on order so i can try out that engine..

Keith-OH

01-22-2005, 08:18 AM

Here is a link to a picture of my truck. I cant stop looking at it. This thing is awesome!!! Thanks for all the help and advise you guys been giving this newby.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=47606

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 09:04 AM

HOT OFF HBs webpages!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_GT/GT.jpg
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_GT/chassis.jpg
The Lightning GT is based off the reliable Lightning series and shares a lot of the same features

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_GT/clearance.jpg
With nearly 3 inches of ground clearance, there is not much that can slow this beast down

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_GT/low_pro.jpg
Even with it's enormous ground clearance, the Lightning GT is able to maintain a relativly low center of gravity due to the Lightning series it is based off of.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_GT/pipe.jpg
The pipe is specially designed to maintain the same volume but fit within the realistic body design
************i like this idea, but i have to wonder how it performs

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_GT/servo.jpg
Dual inline steering servos provide plenty of high torque to the oversized wheels and tires
***************look at the brace set up.. this is how i plan to build my front extra support.

******************now does this have a 2 speed???????????

Keegy

01-22-2005, 09:14 AM

here's some pictures of mine! super sparkly metalflake purple finish on HPI Bronco body, Tsais tuned pipe, Nitrohouse Iron Cross Head, Airtronics 94359Z steering servo, Ofna Failsafe, HPI 1200 MAH receiver battery, Futaba receiver, Futaba 3PK radio, Imex Pin Dawg Tires, RC Raven aluminum wheels, OS 8 glowplugs, Motor Saver air filter. lemme know you all think...
hope these pictures load...ive had minimal success getting them up on here before![IMG] :)
file:///Users/admin/Desktop/IMG_0016.jpg
file:///Users/admin/Desktop/IMG_000f7.jpg
file:///Users/admin/Desktop/IMG_00f16.jpg
file:///Users/admin/Desktop/IMG_0012.jpg

Keegy

01-22-2005, 09:33 AM

im weary of that GT muffler... it looks like the old ones they used to use on vintage Kyosho nitro buggys... and only the tinyest amount of exhaust would release.
hey CR...how do i attach pics? its not working!

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 09:44 AM

goto www.photobucket.com and get a free acct.. has to be hosted ont he web.. they are the best free storage space i know of.. copy paste the url link they have preset with the img code already in it even :) i think it has a 2 speed.. look at the servo pic, then follow the breaks back to the spur..

spesh

01-22-2005, 10:12 AM

just wondering if the dual steering servo would fit into a regular one, looks like its just a change of that top deck part and the extra servos

Keegy

01-22-2005, 10:12 AM

thanks for the photobucket tip! i appreciate that...OK...
so here's the link to my LSP and also an old rare modified Kyosho...

http://photobucket.com/albums/v359/John-John/Lightning%20Stadium%20Pro/

http://photobucket.com/albums/v359/John-John/Kyosho%20Advance%201983/

spesh

01-22-2005, 10:13 AM

Keegy

01-22-2005, 10:16 AM

ok try now i had the public view off... i only opened the accnt 10 minutes ago!

spesh

01-22-2005, 11:25 AM

what engine? :o

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 11:33 AM

the gt has the same 26.. the duel steering.. yea it would fit. BUT look at how its in the way of the original anti bend rod, also look at the beefed up servo saver and different drag link.. yea i studied the photos.

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 11:35 AM

keggy.. look at how under the phot there is 3 links.. the BOTTOm most one is img tagged.. if you copy paste that link it will show in the forum :) also if you exceed bw or folder size, its 25$ a year or 9$ for 3 months.. at a little more then 2$ a month the 25 a year i sworth it as it becomes unlimited on size and bw

Keegy

01-22-2005, 12:49 PM

hi CR- i uploaded all my fave pics of my home, myself, dog and RC collection... lemme know if its all working... i think i became obsessed with the site! thanks!
so theres an album just for the LSP and also my various other RC cars

That GT looks alot like the Dirt Demon.

Keegy

01-22-2005, 12:50 PM

OH here:

http://photobucket.com/albums/v359/John-John/

Monsterbrad

01-22-2005, 07:55 PM

CR saw the new savage 28 looks sweet so does that gt !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Why can't these companies just give it a rest it would make having something longer than 5 months easier...
Oh well
No race tomorrow for me the weather is just to ****** snowy here..
I HATE WINTER
SUCKS

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 07:56 PM

well i just got home from working on mikes LSP.. its ready and waiting for the engine now.. i was wrong on the front CVDs, his are binding in the diff cups, it removes the paint from the CVD!!!.. but not as bad as mine was.. i did a different mod to his.. waiting on the photos, and ill throw them up.. :)

Keith-OH

01-22-2005, 08:04 PM

I just got back from the first time driving my truck on the track. I ended up braking my rear shock ends and my front bumper. I end up running to the hobby shop and picking up stock ends for a Revo ( aluminum ). I went back and ran the rest of the night. I am using the stock engine. I am at 250 deg. and still very rich. I tried other high end temps guns guys had and they where very close to what my cheep one read.Top end needle is set at 3 turns out and low end about 1/16 in past factory setting. I am very much impressed with this truck!!! After I put my new shock ends on I adjusted the screw in the rear arms. So I hope not to brake the shock ends again. Anyone using aluminum shock ends? Is that a bad idea? Any idea why my temps are so high for putting out major amounts of smoke? Guys at the track even said it sounded rich.

Keith

Monsterbrad

01-22-2005, 08:12 PM

well I have mine running about there and I have had problems with the engine getting hot but these engine like to run hot.
Lets face it it's not that great of an engine so if it blows there are better ones out there..
Mine is also rich but I did notice that it runs better when its warmer out not like now...

winning edge designs

01-22-2005, 08:16 PM

Keith, sounds good, the aluminum shock ends are great, but in a really bad crash you may break a shaft, now that the ends are stronger it's a possibility.

If your at 250 and still "sounds rich" I would cut the body holes out in front of the engine in the windshield if it isn't. I also cut out the driver side of my truck window on our MGT/LST Illuzion body. You don't want to go much past 250-260 since your in the no buffer zone if it leans out during a run for any reason. What type of fuel are you running and what is the nitro and oil percentage and type?......................Jim

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 09:22 PM

part number for shock ends?

also.. make sure to look back 1 page at the new lightning gt..

Keith-OH

01-22-2005, 09:24 PM

I am using O'Donnell 20% Racing Fuel

Keith, sounds good, the aluminum shock ends are great, but in a really bad crash you may break a shaft, now that the ends are stronger it's a possibility.

If your at 250 and still "sounds rich" I would cut the body holes out in front of the engine in the windshield if it isn't. I also cut out the driver side of my truck window on our MGT/LST Illuzion body. You don't want to go much past 250-260 since your in the no buffer zone if it leans out during a run for any reason. What type of fuel are you running and what is the nitro and oil percentage and type?......................Jim

Monsterbrad

01-22-2005, 09:33 PM

I am going to be running all my rigs on O'Donnel 20% car also..
I have used blue thunder 20% race formula for years and now have to switch cause I can't get it anymore.. :-(

Keith-OH

01-22-2005, 10:23 PM

I need more advise guys. My batteries in my radio died today. So I need a new charger or something. My charger I have now only holds 2-AA and it takes 16 hours to charge them. Can I buy one big battery for the radio that comes in the RTR kit? I will using the stock radio for now. Or is there a way I can hook them up to this charger for a faster charge?

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=7

CRSMP5

01-22-2005, 10:25 PM

buy a charger that charges nimh batts, like the one you use to charge the 5 cell hump pack you should buy, then come up with a losi mini-t 4AA batt holder.. use it to charge 4 batts at a time.. ;), hb makes a 50$ charger thats a simple 1 button, ac/dc and will charge up to 7cells.. i use it for my hump packs and any other batts i can recharge with ease.

winning edge designs

01-22-2005, 10:53 PM

Keith, first, the Fuel your using is a good quality, castor blend, I think about 12%?, that will smoke a bit, even if your set too lean, so be careful of gauging by the smoke only. I use Maxys racing fuels, which are available about everywhere and they seem to have a combination that yeilds excellent power, lower temps and low varnish biuld up in the engine as well...I switched from Odonnel to Maxy two years ago and have never looked back since.

When I use rechargables in my transmitter I hook the alligator clips to the positive and negative of the cell holder. If your not sure which is which, look at the cells near the connections and you'll see which is which. You must be carefull of your voltage though, since it is possible to overheat and melt the cell holder if your charger lets the cells get too hot....I use a Novak Milennium pro to charge all my cells, even my Electric R/C stuff and my Fusion 6 cell batteries.................Jim

stonesavage

01-22-2005, 11:33 PM

SUT LONGER ARM KITS NOW SHIPPING www.remotecontrolhobby.com check it out very nice.(tomahawk storm kit)

Keegy

01-23-2005, 06:23 AM

keith- i never even used the stock radio and recievr... i would suggest getting rid of it and getting a good Futaba (3PK), JR3 synthesized, Airtronics...and a good new receiver...just much more options and control and besides the stock radio is an AM..
AM seems only good if you ONLY run your truck by yourself in the middle of nowhere...otherwise interference is too risky...get a failsafe too! i use the OFNA...

Monsterbrad

01-23-2005, 09:55 AM

the fail safe is the next thing on my list....
Also you can buy rechargeable bats from Wal Mart I hate WM any way or K-mart that come 4 to a pack and are Nimh cells.
I have 2 sets and love them
Duracel makes them and they hold up just fine...

kuhn2373

01-23-2005, 01:05 PM

just got mine thursday crs and i did all the mods yesterday now just waiting for my novarossi 28race should get tuesday : :D
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v442/kuhn/DSCF0084.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v442/kuhn/DSCF0085.jpg

Monsterbrad

01-23-2005, 01:35 PM

I like,,,,,,,,,,, the only thing is put the front support on to support the front end like the rear makes a difference.
I have both revo rods on mine and pretty much all the flex is gone except for the center where there is still a little play.
Better than stock though.

spesh

01-23-2005, 03:56 PM

Still on pretty much stock everything, radio gear being changed next month which hasnt been too much hassle as its bashing only at the mo. club i am in (swansearc.co.uk) had its first outdoor bash of the season as our indoor carpet round was cancelled by the venue. Damn good fun and the 1st chance i had to run the truggy against 1/8 buggys, savages, tmaxx's and revo's. Gotta say i am pretty damn happy with the performance of something thats still pretty much "out the box".

Only big issue i found was the front of the battery box where the wires go out is in no way sealed, the hole for the wires is bloody massive. had a bit of a flood in there which killed the stock reciever (no hassle as its getting changed anyway) but something that i think peoples should be aware of.

Upped the shock oil in the rear to 80 and front at 60 and it seems to be handling and landing a bit better (we race on grass). Was really struggling for grip with the stock tires and damp grass tho so they are gonna have to be changed. Also putting diff oil in at 5k front, 10k centre and 2k rear has made one hell of a traction difference straight line but it seems to have taken a little off turning ability - might drop down 1k on the front and see. Not balloning tires now which it was with bare diffs.

Any opinions on how bowties perform on grass? think it will be 40 series as the ground is really quite level with clean tabletops, jumps and a bloody horrible triple :p

http://freespace.virgin.net/mack.75/4.JPG

andersun16

01-23-2005, 04:20 PM

I bit the bullet and picked up the HB 7075 chassis from Hot Bodies and switched everything over. By itself, it made now real difference in handling or chassis rigidity (at least as measured with the old "workbench twist" measurement method. It's the save color so you don't even get any bling factor with it (it has 7075 stamped on it but that gets hidden by the diff case. I wouldn't consider this a must-have update - if you tweak the stock 6061 chassi then go for it (or buy my stock one for cheap), but don't kill yourself to get it. Maybe it'll be a little more resistant to scratches?

CRSMP5

01-23-2005, 04:37 PM

no it scratches just as easy.. my buggy ones get tore up...

mb im trying to find a different solution for th front brace you did with revo rod.. i wanna do something like this
http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/Lightning_GT/servo.jpg
the method for attaching it to the bulk for the revo rod will not work.. those screws come loose in a long race.. the method they used on the gt is better as the bell cranks will support the rod

sutman

01-23-2005, 07:02 PM

Today was my first chance to take my LSP out for a real test, god it is fast I am run a sirio .27 with a turbo cutch, 17 tooth clutch bell with 30,000 front, 60,000 center and 10,000 rear i found this work quite well for me because I like to power slide the corners, looks cool when you get it right. Well impressed with the komodo dragen tyres. Managed to break one of the rear shock rod ends, are the revo alum. ones 3mm thread or do you have to replace the shafts as well to 3.5mm
cheers Kev

sutman

01-23-2005, 07:19 PM

Monsterbrad

01-23-2005, 07:58 PM

The new 23mm are awesome I am getting a pair of those soon.
Make this truck look even more truggy like than it already does.
Course then again it is a truggy isn't it :-)

stonesavage

01-23-2005, 08:21 PM

yeah the SUT is just a play toy after this truck..
Pics do this truck no justice just have to hold one and see one to believe it.
AWESOME is the only word for it.....
your name should be BANDWAGONBRAD :mad:

Monsterbrad

01-23-2005, 08:35 PM

The truth hurts some of us!

CRSMP5

01-23-2005, 08:37 PM

mike is buying my 23mm ones.. he likes how they look too.. they were gotten to be tested, so he can be test person.. i still wanna test revo wheels with cut bowties..

spesh

01-24-2005, 01:24 PM

Spesh try using some blue tack in the hole seems to work for me, what class are you running your LSP in at Swansea, 40 series bow tie work well for me last year, the wheels are a little weak so would go fo the new 23mm type.

Thats still to be decided, we go outdoors towards the end of march (indoor champ finishes end of feb, few weeks to sort the track/maintenance then racing). Looks like we will be in our own championship class but racing in the MT heats - ownership of this truggy is quite high in the club already.

Ended up with chewing gum blocking that hole up on the day, worked ok but blutack will be there - less messy lol ;)

with the 40series wheels, are any preffered? was just gonna go with the dish wheels but if others are noticably stronger then that will do me. If i get a prob with broken wheels then alu wheels will be on the shopping list.

Hows the sirio working out? can you compare it to stock at all? curious ;)

Also - what diff oil are you using (brand wise)?

CRSMP5

01-24-2005, 07:45 PM

ofna diff oil..

and 23mm hex only the 14mm hex ones are weak and break/bend way easy AND cannot be warrenteed unless you spend 24$ in spinner nuts direct from proline..

Monsterbrad

01-24-2005, 08:13 PM

Are the spinner nuts bigger or something???

CRSMP5

01-24-2005, 08:59 PM

they are long, they supposedly help support the face fo the wheel...

stonesavage

01-24-2005, 09:39 PM

The truth hurts some of us!
not really it just you go back n forth so much it's like watching a basketball game.lol the sut pro with native racing chassis and arms is ten times the truck look at all the wins it has does hot bodies even have a factory driver howbout NO goldmember.truth hurts eh bandwagon :(

gr8taz nitro

01-24-2005, 10:39 PM

does hot bodies even have a factory driver howbout NO

Just curious, but since when does having a factory driver make a truck better? And by the way the lightning stadium does have factory drivers, I believe they pretty much had a clean sweep in thailand.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/04_tai_int.html

Just curious

gcobra16

01-25-2005, 04:18 AM

From the looks of your screen name your pretty fond of savages. HMMM do they have a team driver?

CRSMP5

01-25-2005, 05:59 AM

here is a good one.. i know a person that has a SUT we used to trash him about his truggy all summer till i got my lsp.. well over the past few months he bough all the aluminum crap for his sut to make it longer and wider.. a rtr 100% out the box non pro version stadium whipped his butt a few weeks ago.. when he went to inquire with the ls owner about what he had, and when he found out it was 100% stock down to the electronic it discouraged him... the sut is a completly different beast.. the owner of said ls is also far from a good racer vs the sut owner.. this is the same race day the ls took 2nd which was his 3rd day of owning the ls..

CRSMP5

01-25-2005, 06:02 AM

gcobra16 does my sn say im found of hk mp5s?

http://members.aol.com/chrisrscofield/index/hobby/crsmp5.jpg

ahhh the cost of hobbies.. :)

gcobra16

01-25-2005, 08:54 AM

Found? Previous remark was for stonesavage.

vbgagnon

01-25-2005, 01:37 PM

Bibious

01-25-2005, 02:28 PM

Hello Everyone,
I am in need of some help.

1.) My glow plug keeps coming out? Anyone have this issue or can suggest what I should look for/ how to fix it?

2.) On Sunday I was bashing and hitting some big jumps and unfortunately my air filter popped off. I do not think that I was running the truck for too long w/o a filter but I can not be certain. I cleared what dust/sand I could from the carb opening with a paper towel soaked in after run oil. I was wondering if anyone had any tips on how check/clean out the engine. Is there anything I should do before running the truck again? My idea was to move the piston to BDC blasting it with some WD 40 and allowing it to drain on its own out the exhaust opening. Is this a stupid idea?
3.) If I were to replace the stock engine what you all recommend? I am more interested in Reliability and ease of tuning over raw power. Is the Wasp .26 any good or is there a better choice? Does OS make a .26 engine?
4.) Cr you mentioned early in this post that using revo wheel would require some modding. Can you give me some details on what you meant?
5.) Finally I bought myself a new ofna 15t Clutch bell, I ordered the shim kit that CR mentioned, what exactly do I need to do with the shim kit and bell to make it mesh/work properly.

Thanks again everyone for their input and help.

stonesavage

01-25-2005, 07:09 PM

stonesavage

01-25-2005, 07:28 PM

Sounds like sombody can't handle the fact that this is a kick ass truck. Who cares if he likes his savage? This is supposed to be a place to talk about your truck, not about being a baby. I'll give you some cheese and go whine somewhere else. I for one don't want to hear your ********, and I'm sure the other guys don't either!
THIS all started cause sOMEone here who used to rave on about how the sut is a kickass truck but now he has a lsp and the sut is just a playtoy wait until the mugen race truggy comes out and watch him jump ship .boo hoo :cool: previously i have NEVER BADMOUTHED THE LSP( it otay )but itJUST SHOWS WHO THE KID IS eh :p

Monsterbrad

01-25-2005, 08:25 PM

Hey stonesavage
Whats the deal man
you single me out cause i get excited about something new and if you have a problem with that cause nobody else does its too bad.
I am not here to cause problems I like what I like and I will have whatever truck I feel like having and I can like what I want.
I did not say that the SUT is no good its just not the racer out of the box.
People that read these posts do alot of comparing and I like people to know whats going on with these different trucks well truggies...
Don't mean to cause any trouble or bad mouthing.
oops
Bibious
hey if you sucked too much dirt into the engine I did this on my first SUT engine it smokes the piston and sleeve and mine sucked enough in to mess the bearings up too...

gcobra16

01-25-2005, 10:00 PM

I have been reading this Forum for a couple of months. It was one of the first forums about the LSP. In all actuallity it has been the best forum about the LSP. There is a lot of good information on earlyer pages. I believe that this forum should be reserved for just LSPs as the title says. It's fine you have a Savage, so do I. I also have a T-Maxx and mini-t. The Pit Stop (http://www.elltel.net/thepitstop/p1.htm) Check my site. I also am the race director at our local track. Selah r/c Raceway (http://selahrcraceway.homestead.com/index.html) We are having a 6 race series with another local track. There will be Savages, LSTs, you name it. So I reserve, as I sugest you all do the same, the smack talk for the track. I will keep you informed on the finishes I can muster with my LSP. Good luck and keep the good info coming on this forum.

CRSMP5

01-25-2005, 10:26 PM

there is one issue between this fight between mb and other guy.. mb has one advantage some do not.. he has owned each, yea when its a new item you say good things.. but when somethign upstages it, trust me he wanted nothign to do with the lsp till he saw a box stock ls non pro in action.. then he was hooked.. i give mb credit on teh fact he has owned a savage, sut, mgt (still new), lst, revo and probally a few others.. so he can compair what he has been thru with each.. that abuility alot o fpeople lack.. so let it go...

im glad you like th e1st half of the thread.. yea its usefull, there is a HUGE 150+ pg thread(s) on the lightning buggy ive been involved with for a long time, ive been playing with the lightning series for shoot spring will be 3 years now.. so in a way im pretty knowlegeable on the platform.. where to get parts and so on.. an dthats what its about.. passing on helpfull info...

vbgagnon

01-25-2005, 11:22 PM

What weight shock/diff oils are you guys running? I have the rr NOT the pro.

cevod1

01-25-2005, 11:44 PM

Is the pro version really worth the extra $$$

I am looking for a race truck and want to make sure that I get the right one the first time out.

CRSMP5

01-26-2005, 12:19 AM

yes, the pro i sworth the extra money, for all it comes with, even if you hate aluminum arms, plastic is 18$ for a set, the rest of the 7075 aluminum, rubber sealed bearings, center cvds, hardened diff gears, tri breaks, aluminum shock caps and all, 3 shoe clutch, 7075 front steering knuckles, the 100$ extra it is is well worth the 160$ worth of aluminum arms that come on it.. spend some time.. the pro version can be gotten for 520-550... yes i know of 2 different lhs that sold them at that this past week

diff oils, this varies with track, mine for high traction at moment 7k front, 50k center, 3k rear

shock oils im goign to try 50wt front, and 45wt rear.. i ran stock oil sfor a long time..

gcobra16

01-26-2005, 12:25 AM

Pro comes with hardened gears, alum. arms, better shocks, double disc front break, & so on. You can compare in a earlyer post in this forum.

So CRSMP5. ? I have a LSP. I build a truck each winter, and then campaign it at our local tracks. Last year a savage, the year before a T-Maxx. There on my site. This year the LSP. I'm sticking with the alum. arms, and have decided rather than to machine new beeffier alum. hinge pin braces, I am going to stainless steel @ the same thickness (close to 10 ga. & taller for strength). I guess C hubs next. Heres the ? Who makes alum. C hubs that are direct fit?

CRSMP5

01-26-2005, 09:45 AM

gr8taz nitro

01-26-2005, 04:11 PM

crsmp5

should be able to let you know if the hardcore titanium draglink for an mp 7.5 will work on the LSP in a couple of days. One of the guys I race with has one he's gonna drop off to me so I can get some measurements and do a trial fit with to see how it's gonna work. :D

Monsterbrad

01-26-2005, 04:43 PM

Thats my issue right now is the center drag link between the steering arms!
But I doubled up on the SUT and that took care of the problem completely so I that's what I am going to do with this truck also as soon as I get the extra arm from CR.

stonesavage

01-26-2005, 05:25 PM

no one i know of makes a c hub, i think there are some kyosho ones out there maybe even one for a sut, they are the same, so if you find a kyosho or sut one then id attempt them.. but the stock c hub is 5$ for a pair, i think id rather have the simple to change 5$ part for the wheel to attach for the bad crash.. YOUR right on that ''you want some give somewere better plasic than those killer alloy arms (i'd rather spend$5 than replace bent arms. :cool:

Monsterbrad

01-26-2005, 07:02 PM

aluminum is good in some areas but really bad in others.
Yeah its strong but then again there is no flex with aluminum like stone and cr said.
The truck has to have some plastic on it to be strong and these truggies are pretty durable but then again I have not put it through any testing other than the track and I don't hammer the crap outa it on the track.
Rod ends are for sure a weak link but Mike at Speed Zone told me traxxas ones are better plastic and I have those on mine now..

gcobra16

01-26-2005, 09:22 PM

That is what I am thinking. It sounds like the stock C hubs are weak, and I don't Bash, I race. I don't believe the alum. arms are going to be a bad thing, and I hope the C hubs can with stand the preasure of racing.

cevod1

01-26-2005, 09:30 PM

Weakness:

1. Chassis flex / remedy revo parts
2. rod ends / traxxas rods ends
3. center drag link / double up or titanium ?
4. c hubs? / remedy?
5. any others? / remedy?

gcobra16

01-26-2005, 10:01 PM

CRSMP5 you said to attempt Kyosho, or SUT does that mean they might fit? Would this be an upgrade?

CRSMP5

01-26-2005, 10:23 PM

kyosho and sut c hubs are direct replacement plastic parts :) so their aluminum counterparts shoudl be also..

chassie flex is little.. c hub.. not a issue that ive ever seen

dogbones aka cvds break pins due to it locking up in diff cup, remidy, fuel tubing on shock shaft, cut down diff cup, or mgt bone section

rear brace, needs mods look back to pg 8 or so for photos..

GasGod

01-26-2005, 10:35 PM

17,20,22deg.c hubs;stronger rear cvd driveshaft;new stronger draglinks are already on e-bay--lol :eek: ,anyone "massage"the stock .26 yet. I bet it has some potential ;)

VMach

01-26-2005, 10:39 PM

17,20,22deg.c hubs;stronger rear cvd driveshaft;new stronger draglinks are already on e-bay--lol :eek: anyone "massage"the stock .26 yet I bet it has some potential ;)
Which C-hub comes standard on the LSP? I had the pro 1 and I believe, I had to switch the upper arm when I changed to a 22 deg C-hub.

Monsterbrad

01-26-2005, 10:45 PM

making the truck full aluminum would be awesome!!!
I won't but it would be a great lookin ride

cevod1

01-26-2005, 11:01 PM

Is this a better racing truck than the sut? I know this is an opion question but would still like to hear what everyone has to say.

CRSMP5

01-27-2005, 12:29 AM

yes... much better then sut..

robert of http://www.rcihobbies.com/ put 22* hubs on his ALONG with pro2 upper arms.. i suggest calling him.. it comes with the pro1 front c hubs originally.. he also has some kyosho draglink on it as the double stacker set up will not fit with the upper arm rear mount required for pro2 upper arms..

Keith-OH

01-27-2005, 12:51 PM

Do we have brakes for the front and back? When driving down the road at WOT I can turn the throttle and hit the brakes and do a 180 or even a 360. This is cool but should I have brakes for the front also?

stonesavage

01-27-2005, 03:41 PM

Is this a better racing truck than the sut? I know this is an opion question but would still like to hear what everyone has to say.
YES and NO the lsp is a great racer it's has three advantages over the sut cost/ chassis is longer(better for stability)and the killer long alloy arms(width = stability =handling) THE SUTis a good racer that can be made great with the optional native racing wide alloy arm kit and extended chassis but it is about $400 more than the lsp I work at a hobby shop were we have a track so I have driven both trucks I bought the sut PRO kit (much better)Than the RTR. At the time the lsp was on back order. there both great racers but the sut requires a little more time and coin to make it as competive as the lsp. hope this helps. :D

Monsterbrad

01-27-2005, 06:03 PM

cevod1
I have owned both trucks also and I have to say that the SUT is the toughest truck that I have tested to date cause I pounded the crap outa one.
The LSP on the other hand in my opinion is the best racer on the market as of now.
I have a few other trucks also but none compare on the track to this truck.
Thats why my SUT found its way to another owner cause of what stone said.
It just costs to much for all the hop ups for the SUT.
When you can just buy a racer outa the kit why not just buy it!
Ya know................

andersun16

01-27-2005, 10:01 PM

Gasgod - I tore the stock .26 down - not much to work with there - it's a sport .26 if there ever was one. I "massaged" mine on eBay for $80.00 and stuck in a Novarossi 8 port .28. Talk about sick?! Another LSP with that motor ran down A main buggies down the back straight at Bumps & Jumps and will flip right over from a dead stop. Park that Savage and get one - the LSP puts the rest on the trailer - even with an old coot like you wheelin' her :)

All - I will be parting out a new LSP Pro on eBay next week and I have a used stock chassis for sale now $30 shipped (offered here only).

GasGod

01-27-2005, 10:41 PM

but .28's are such gas hogs--ya think the extra speed is worth an extra pit stop -- or 2??lol- I know the speed advantage is there but it only has a 125cc tank ,how much runtime ya gettin outta the setup?

GasGod

01-27-2005, 10:43 PM

ya do remember pitstops -- :eek: right?

CRSMP5

01-28-2005, 05:44 AM

ill take the chassis..

and my 28 3 port would go 7min and like 45 sec with 3ft of fuel tubing feedign the engine.. and thats a tad richer then need be to make clutches not slip.. i have some .9 springs comming as robert said that may solve that issue..

andersun16

01-28-2005, 07:36 AM

CRSMP5 - Problem? What problem? Flipping over at a dead stop is not a problem - it's a freakin' beautiful thing :cool: I wonder if the 8 port version will use more fuel?

GasGod (Jeff, I'm assuming?) - I'm not worried about pitstops - this engine has so much mojo that it'll beat most others even without fuel - but I may try the ol' 2 foot of fuel line trick just to be sure. . .

CRSMP5

01-28-2005, 09:54 AM

i have a eb modded top 28 8 port should get it today in the mail.. cost.. 380 shipped to the door :)

you can always use a smaller venturi like a 7mm one to increase fuel milage also.. it comes with a 9mm installed, 8.5 and 8 in the box..

problem.. the issue i have is melting clutch shoes if i lean it out as much as i can and still not have bad temps aka under 250f, when i hit 250f it melts aluminum ones and bakes composite when i have 1.0 springs on it, th eidea is to use a .9 so the engine does not rev up as high when the clutch engauges... in theory it may work.. ill be findign out..

Keith-OH

01-28-2005, 01:19 PM

I got my new body for my truck. I had winning edge designs paint me one. I am very happy with the quality work he does. Here are a few pictures.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC02814.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC02810.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC02806.jpg

CRSMP5

01-28-2005, 07:59 PM

looks good :)

i may just have to buy one of those bodies oen day.. but gotta paint it myself..

gr8taz nitro

01-28-2005, 08:25 PM

The titanium draglinks from hardcore for the kyosho 7.5 will work on the LSP. Got one today and did a trial fit. The only thing that you will need to do is to grind off the top part of the draglink. The 7.5 draglink has a little ear on the front of the link where the one from the LSP is smooth. You also get three points to mount the tie rod to instead of 2. Got one for $20 bucks on clearance :D

thedarkness

01-28-2005, 08:49 PM

CRS the0.9 springs would be best for that eb mods engine.Ive talked to Ed a bit about it and he says it should hit 40000 under load and it has around 124oz in of torque.He told me the torque comes on low and it comes on hard, your lsp is going to be a rocketship

CRSMP5

01-28-2005, 09:41 PM

thats the goal :D

jmcn r

01-28-2005, 10:14 PM

guys i am still reading this thread...so much info. GJ :D

gcobra16- i got a question for you. I was browise your web page and looked over your LSP. could you tell ushow come you have a Pro .15 installed? i had to look over and re read a couple times, im puzzled? :confused:

Monsterbrad

01-29-2005, 12:49 AM

Ok you guys make me want a new engine!!
LOL
oh well no cash right now.
Whats the deal with flipping over backwards??????
THis truck seems to low for that or do you mean when jumping it......

gcobra16

01-29-2005, 01:28 AM

My site as you could tell is based on our local track. So as not to give away all of my secrets I did'nt put the correct engine/pipe/clutch on the LSP page. I actually am running a Wasp 28 with a Jammin pipe, and an Unlimited Engineering 4 shoe clutch.

Keegy

01-29-2005, 03:01 AM

heres a link to some new pics of my LSP on the fire escape after the snow storm...im dying to break it in but the 10 degree weather right now in NYC does not permit! soo frustrating! lemme know what you all think...

http://photobucket.com/albums/v359/John-John/Lightning%20Stadium%20Pro/

CRSMP5

01-29-2005, 09:06 AM

who wants instruction sets for the buggies? im trying to figure out how much scannign im goign to be doing.. since i got a new computer, my old old win 95 computer i have all teh needed stuff to rehook it up and use my old scanner.. im thinking of making up 3 new photo bucket files one for each instruction set.. then you can print the pages you want to save.. the buggy instructions are 100% better then the stadium...

vbgagnon

01-29-2005, 12:01 PM

I'd take one set.

CRSMP5

01-29-2005, 01:16 PM

i got my rci shipment today.. ;) some goodies i cannto say have been photoed are here..
first the shipment.. no body in photo though
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies003.jpg

order
plastic arms
racer edge aluminum 3mm shock ends
the cnc engine mounts
advantage 086 hard anodized pipe
4 red springs
4 blue springs
cnc pipe mount
wing mount set
clear body
plastic servo mounts bag, wanted the amb transponder mount
upper rod ends..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies004.jpg
still need flywheel, clutch springs, shoes, airfilter (in my ace order im still waiting on)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies007.jpg
this is the racing pipe mount..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies008.jpg
the aliminum shock ends require a slight thinning to fit into the lower control arms.. not that hard to do.. else they bind at full droop....

CRSMP5

01-29-2005, 01:17 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies006.jpg
the HB machined aluminum engine mounts.. only the best for the eb mods rossi, but it requires a slight mod to clear the pull start along with the pipe, aka silver areas...
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies005.jpg

Keith-OH

01-29-2005, 07:29 PM

I broke my front right hub today at practice. I ran into the back of another truck that stoped in front of me at about 1/2 throttle. Is there any good mod i can do for the hubs so they dont break so easy?

CRSMP5: you are making me very jealous of all those nice parts you have there.

CRSMP5

01-29-2005, 08:31 PM

http://photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lightning_instructions/

the whole instruction set is under lp1, all the parts are under parts for buggies thru stadium, th e4 pages of stadium i sunder ls, and pro2 has pages of whats different and lackign on the stadium/version 1 buggy

the c hub or the aluminum knuckle? c hub i s5$ for a pair. keep a spare set.. if you have the rtr stadium with potmetal ones, a set of dynimite ones for a gs storm is like 20$ for 7075.. else the pro version for 40-60$

Keith-OH

01-29-2005, 08:37 PM

Thanks CRSMP5. I broke the plastic c hub on the bottom.

CRSMP5

01-29-2005, 08:42 PM

kyosho, gs use th esame c hub.. just cost more.. LOL

CRSMP5

01-29-2005, 08:44 PM

also.. i suggest saving all the photos of the instructions to your computer.. then going thru and deleting the ones you do not require.. and buildign your own instruction set.. also look at how they crapped out on teh stadium vs the buggy ones..

gcobra16

01-29-2005, 09:58 PM

CRSMP5 will these work on LSP. C Hubs (http://www.gsracing.com/web/page.asp?pgs=product&catid=31&id=86)

CRSMP5

01-29-2005, 11:43 PM

the plastic ones are the same.. rember if you make that aluminum you have no break away point for the wheel besides the diff case if you have aluminum arms.. id rather have 5$ plastic ones..

mikes mods..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mikeslsp/DSCF0080.jpg
to sit the engine as low as possible with the tops/rossi/rb/rex 28s with pull start a hole like so is needed

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mikeslsp/DSCF0078.jpg
double stacked drag link..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mikeslsp/DSCF0076.jpg
A is the e-clip, the shaft needs turned around..
B is the black washer that comes in the offna clutch bell shim kit, its the washer for the bolt.. its a titch thicker then the e clip..

CRSMP5

01-30-2005, 12:02 AM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mikeslsp/DSCF0075.jpg
people think im nuts.. well this is off mikes NEW 12 day old LSP notice the color differance? the diff drive cup ate it away.. JUST turning it by hand with the suspention fully compressed.. now call me nuts if you want, but a bad jump will put more force on it then my hand can..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mikeslsp/DSCF0068.jpg
i removed the edge/thing that too the paint off.. i tapered it slightly and also in teh seam/crack of the cup i radius it as the bone will actually lock in that position usually bites the bone and puts a notch in it, but for those who think im full of it when i say he it bottoms out.. there is the proof..

CRSMP5

01-30-2005, 02:00 AM

well the 30$ chassis is going to be sent off.. the one i bought above, i checked in with a aftermarket company on possibility of a 7075 thicker but cutout/milled for weight.. so ill mark it up and ship it to him.. but i also got a hint of upcomming products..

"We are 2 weeks away from having Quasi Fiber Tranny brace and Servo tray completed, as well as the rear chassis brace in 3mm Quasi.

We have a locker for it to replace the diffs (Guys who work and race for HB have tested our locker in the front for racing and really like it)

We have a flat black Carbon Fiber shock tower on the way as well.
No weave look.

We already have in stock a CF disc brake for it. "

so stay tuned as i have a option to buy some of the 1st batch.. once its avaliable ill let the rest of the kitty out the bag as to where it can be gotten from...

once i do this all i need is a front and rear complete diff unit (unless i use a normal buggy one) to have a complete 2nd roller.. im thinking 7lb lightning stadium to put the eb modded tops 8 port in... :eek:

Walter T Flower Jr

01-30-2005, 07:25 PM

Hi All,
I broke another C hub today on my LSP, anyone else find them fragile ? I heard mention of a Kyosho part that was a direct fit and supposed to be stronger than the original part, anyone have the Kyosho part number? Thanks, Walter

CRSMP5

01-30-2005, 07:49 PM

kyosho and gs storem are the same part.. i cannot say they are any stronger though.. how cold was it when it got broken? for all teh years ive run a hb buggy ive broken 2 i think, and they were big crashes..

Keith-OH

01-30-2005, 08:03 PM

I broke another C hub today on my LSP. About 40 deg in the building. Also cracked my Revo rim. I ran into the same guy as yesterday at about 3/4 throttle.

Monsterbrad

01-30-2005, 08:45 PM

sounds like the guy that you are running into needs to get the **** outa the way!!!!!!!!
Also CR
whats the deal all those parts and a new engine!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I want the aluminum rod ends but I am going to try the traxxas plastic ones first they are tough from what I have been told...
I really really want a 28>>>>
:-(

Walter T Flower Jr

01-30-2005, 08:55 PM

CRSMP5, The temp is around 32f, Never broke any on my old inferno on colder days than this, we run on a plowed dirt lot with packed snow all winter with our Savages ect. and they rarely ever break. The HB C huds seem very fragile, i'll try some Kyosho units .
Walter

Keith-OH

01-30-2005, 08:57 PM

I was wrong. I broke 2 rims today. I still ended up getting 2nd in the 15 min. A-main when there was 4 min. left when I broke. Another LSP got first. All the fast guys where at a big race today at another track. I need a stronger rim. What do I get? Pro-line? I am using the Revo Hurricane now.

Monsterbrad

01-30-2005, 09:00 PM

Well I can say that the cold is not good for some of these plastics!!!!
I had no problems with my savage either or any of its plastic parts.
I have broken a rod end on the LSP but it was cold that day.
have not had any other problems with the plastic though..
Oh yeah for anybody running the stock screws on the steering blocks out by the wheels.
Check the screws mine were loctited but they still same lose had to get longer screws and lock nuts to keep them tight..

Keith-OH

01-30-2005, 10:00 PM

Ok guys, what do you think of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5953774113&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

CRSMP5

01-31-2005, 09:33 AM

keith be our guini pig on the c hubs..

they were at the crcrc race way in columbus.. nations this past weekend.. on sgrid someone congrated the mt winner on the lsp thread.. wonder if he is a lsp owner :D

Keith-OH

01-31-2005, 09:38 AM

I know 2 guys that where at that race with LSP. Jim and Ross. I am sure they where both in the front of the pack. And I would say Jim may of won. Am I close? If one of those guys has them I will talk to them about the c hubs.

CRSMP5

01-31-2005, 10:15 AM

matt won and yep it was a LSP :D

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/nomad/bodies001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/nomad/bodies002.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/nomad/bodies003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/nomad/bodies004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/nomad/bodies005.jpg

just sick

andersun16

01-31-2005, 01:16 PM

Ok guys, what do you think of these?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5953774113&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

Keith, I saw those and even bid on them (but fortunately, I lost). I'm not 100% sure, but I think they are stock OFNA parts (I think it's part no. 19035). The two holes on the side are a giveaway - that is where a dirt deflector bolts on. See the Ofna diagram here. (http://nitrohouse.com/images/Hyper_7,_parts/Hyper_7,_parts4.jpg) I bought a set of the OFNA ones and they work perfectly. By the way - 17 degree hubs are what come stock.

Monsterbrad

01-31-2005, 09:34 PM

So whats the 22 degree ones do for the steering and alll that then.
I would say that the dirt shields are a must for those ones too...

CRSMP5

01-31-2005, 09:51 PM

honestly i took off my 22* ones on my pro2 buggy.. it had less turning radious, but more stable on power out of the turn.. but unless your dealign with big sweeping turns all the time, they are not benifical..

gcobra16

01-31-2005, 10:22 PM

What part of the c hub is breaking? I have'nt broke one yet. Top (tie rod)? Bottom (a-arm)? or Center (steering arm)? Could this be feefed up?

Keith-OH

02-01-2005, 12:18 AM

The very bottom where the long pin goes though to connect the A-arm. Both broke the exact same way. I will keep the next one i break and take a picture.

CRSMP5

02-01-2005, 11:59 AM

this was MBs body, all i had left was to back it in black.. BUT after i sprayed the candy red, then the silver metalflake the 2nd photo happened
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/lspmess/1sttry001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/lspmess/1sttry002.jpg
how to ruin a perfect chrome job :(

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/lspmess/1sttry003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/lspmess/1sttry004.jpg

now im goign to restart MB's body, its all trimmed out and all.. just needs washed and masked at the moment.. with all luck it will be masked and prepped for some paint yet tonight..

MB wanted to see what happened to the chrome.. well there it is, i have not decided yet if im going to back it in bright yellow, will make it orange as i tested on the wing, or if im going to leve it as is.. kinda neet to look at as is on the truck..

jmangler1

02-01-2005, 12:28 PM

Hey guy's, I'm interested in purchassing a Stadium Pro and want to know if their are alot of problems with it? Is their anything the I must take care of right off the bat and will t-maxx wheels work?

jmangler1

02-01-2005, 12:40 PM

Oh yea! Is the alot of option/hop up parts out yet?

Thanks

CRSMP5

02-01-2005, 12:53 PM

buy a pro and you get all the option/hop ups at this time... look on the 1st 2 pages of this thread for the issues that have been found, the solutions also given, then stroll thru the rest of the thread for different photos/ideas of solutions and such..

tmaxx wheels fit no problem.. thats what comes on it

jmangler1

02-01-2005, 01:10 PM

Awsome thanks!

Monsterbrad

02-01-2005, 07:59 PM

Well there are problems with this truck but I can say that there are fewer problems with this truck than I thought there would be...
I was never a fan of Hot Bodies at all then I saw cr's truck at the track and have jumped on the (band wagon) :-) truggy thing ever since..
Buy the pro its worth the extra jing if you don't want the aluminum arms its cheaper to take them off sell them and buy plastic ones ebay is a wonderful tool for selling stuff.

CRSMP5

02-01-2005, 11:04 PM

MB's new body is going to be sweet.. now i just gotta do teh chrome.. hope you love metalic..

spesh

02-02-2005, 08:04 AM

what did you use to mask for the flames CRSMP5?

CRSMP5

02-02-2005, 11:37 AM

on the one above? xxx main, the exterior of the flames, not the flames them selves.. i get better flame jobs that way...

CRSMP5

02-02-2005, 12:27 PM

here brad.... i still gotta figure out what to do with the grill and headlights..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/lsp1/brad003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/lsp1/brad004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/lsp1/brad005.jpg

Monsterbrad

02-02-2005, 07:10 PM

AWESOME!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hey if I can get the stock stickers for the front thats cool.
If you have any other ideas you know that I don't care!
Has anybody tried the Mach .26 in this truck yet???
I really want a rossi 28 but just don't have the money..

jmangler1

02-02-2005, 07:39 PM

Hey, anyone know where I can get a LSP at? I checked alot of places and they all are out of stock!

Is their alot of differnt things between the RTR and the Pro beside the aluminum arms? I can get the RTR version but I can't seem to come across anyone who has the Pro version. Would it be too expensive for me to go and get the RTR and upgrade all the things I need in order to make it a Pro? Should I wait till it is available?

CRSMP5

02-02-2005, 08:36 PM

bearings, diff gears, clutch, center cvds, shocks, 7075 aluminum hing pin braces, aluminum rear braces for th efront arms, 7075 steerign knuckles... priced seperately is 200+ so buy the pro.. its worth it.. i also know where 1 is on a shelf.. browns hobbies, 330-532-1783 one of my local suppliers of parts.. but after this past weekend at crcrc it may be gone by now.. LOL

CRSMP5

02-02-2005, 08:37 PM

i have ideas for the headlights/grill.. the stickers are 8$ and well ive got more creative ways to make it look sweet yet different..

Keith-OH

02-03-2005, 12:12 AM

http://www.thehobbyshoponline.com/

This place is about 1 hour from me. They had 2 last weekend when I was there.

vbgagnon

02-03-2005, 02:46 AM

Pro at ultimatehobbies (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p665.html)

RR at ultimatehobbies (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p664.html)

Both in stock.

Walter T Flower Jr

02-03-2005, 06:23 AM

Anyone run a Picco .26 in the LSP yet?, They have like alot more juice than the stock Savage 25 engine which is very much like the Power 26 from Hotbodies.
Walter

Monsterbrad

02-03-2005, 07:08 PM

Cr has a new 28 in his.
I am jealous !!!!!!!!
i am thinking about trying the Mach 26 I have but I am not sure yet!
I have heard nothing about the Picco other than they are good engines..

CRSMP5

02-03-2005, 08:26 PM

IMO the picco/wasp/p3 26s are garbage.. 1/4throttle = WOT which sux when trying to race.. mb i started break in today.. this is going to be sick.. vs the 3 port rossie 28 ive had in it at 100f after i started it for its 2nd tank, to clear the pipe of oil i gave it a smiggen of throttle and the thing took off.. i mean it took off. im like whoooo cannto wait till break in is finished.. 2 tanks done now time to go do figure 8s..

CRSMP5

02-03-2005, 08:27 PM

also cannot forget its eb modded to.. so its not a box stock 28either..

CRSMP5

02-03-2005, 10:08 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/new_goodies/rossi.jpg
how to route 3ft of fuel tubing.. :D

gcobra16

02-03-2005, 11:01 PM

That's one thing about these LSPs. Just a few little up-grades, then start messing around with horse power. I got to run my Wasp 28 Sunday for the first time after break in. until I cut bigger holes in the body it was running kind of hot. After that I had pretty good luck. It is no comparison to the HB 26. I also was running the new Hi-Tec Titanium steering servo. I know some guys don't care for Hi-Tec but this servo is awsome.

Monsterbrad

02-03-2005, 11:11 PM

Cr I have my fuel tubing closer to the head on all my trucks!
Hope this is ok I think it is I have never had any problems I see that yours is away a bit from the head of the engine..
Also where can i get some shock ends for this truck???
Traxxas ones I don't like after I bought a whole bag of them :-(
Oh well
Truck is rady for sunday again!

Keith-OH

02-04-2005, 01:57 AM

My one way bearing went out today. HB is sending me a new one. So I guess you guys add that exta fule line for longer run time right? How much extra time do you get from this?

CRSMP5

02-04-2005, 05:36 AM

well as mb watched the one day i ran out int he last 15sec.. the 3ft gave me 20-25sec more time..

mb mine is far away as i did not want it tight and was not willing to shorten it and wanted to keep it in 2 loops not 3 so the ofna fuel clips i used looked good... they are 3mm racers edge ends.. i got mine from the old atomic, now http://www.rcihobbies.com/ cause he knows his stuff.. he is also where i got the pipe, and all my "need bling bling" like the motor mounts, pipe holder and such... also HB parts are free shipping... ;)

Keith-OH

02-04-2005, 10:55 AM

I need some advise guys. I thought I was just having problems with my one way bearing for my roto start system. But I also tried to turn the shaft in this picture and it seems to slip and only grab about 10% of the time. part number 28443 is the part I am turning. I never had one of these engines apart before so can you give me some info on how this all works.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/8.jpg

CRSMP5

02-04-2005, 11:58 AM

this is a HPI s-25 by the way... (from my post on savage central)

why i would make this.. simple.. the rb in the how to build a engine is of a different design, picco, xtm 24.7 8 port are of that style.. this one will allow for the internals of a force engine to be seen and a few questions answered..

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/1.jpg
First off, remove the 3 screws (some are 4) to remove the pull start/roto start

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/2.jpg
pull the 1 way bearing off (some are just a hex shaft, like picco, 8 port, wasp, xtm24.7 for example)

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/3.jpg
time to remove the head, loosen the bolts in a X pattern and take it off

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/4.jpg
the head button under the head, just lifts off

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/5.jpg
headshims and head button, on the s-25 there are 2 shims, DO NOT damage them

CRSMP5

02-04-2005, 11:59 AM

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/6.jpg
loosen the carb pintch bolt and remove the carb

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/7.jpg
if you turn the flywheel, A the piston sleve will life out on a new engine, grab it gently and slide it out. on a used engine it may require heating the block up to get it to slide out

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/8.jpg
take the back plate off. the 1-4 is to denote the x pattern used to loosen and tighten it up. use the same pattern on the head bolts.

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/9.jpg
the NIKE swoosh i speak of. next time it comes up as "i hear a click in my engine" this is the part that makes the click sound. the spring loaded pin sits in it and moves up and down...

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/10.jpg
grab the little pin with some pluers and take it out. next i used a allen wrench 1.5mm is perfect fit, to remove the spring...

CRSMP5

02-04-2005, 12:00 PM

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/11.jpg

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/12.jpg
with the rod all the way up slip the rod end off the crank gently with NO force..

http://members.aol.com/ytownfreeman/rc/11_03_art/s25/teardown/13.jpg
the line in the rod faces the crank, it supplies oil to the bushings of the rod.

CRSMP5

02-04-2005, 08:56 PM

mb... you need to clean up your PMs dude.. sunday, around 9am ill see ya at the track with body and stuff.. i gotta leve after that cause i work sunday also..

Monsterbrad

02-04-2005, 09:49 PM

Hey cr how much money should I bring with me?
Just curious
See you then
truck is ready again hopefuly I can run the komodos with not to much trouble.
I would like to try it!
Try one way grease in that one way bearing thing!
I have saved the last few one ways by just spraying it out with nitro cleaner and then putting the grease in RACERS CHOICE makes it!
Goood stuff

CRSMP5

02-04-2005, 10:41 PM

you know.. dumb question.. if it was slipping, it can be fuel residue.. clean it out, DO NOT OIL IT, and see if it keeps slipping.. savages have a nasty nack for slipping due to fuel seeping into the 1way, a shot of nitro clean solves the issue, drill a small hole int eh roto start by where the bearign is for quick blast at the track..

body 21
chrome 9.99
silver metal flake 3.50
metalic black 3.5
draglink 3
tax .7% so bring 40 and all is well..

Monsterbrad

02-04-2005, 11:25 PM

Cool see ya then.
This weekends weather is awesome!
Time to break in have some fun!!!

Keith-OH

02-05-2005, 12:27 AM

Here are a few pictures I just took of my engine. You can see how the piston can move back and forth from looking at how much of the pin is sticking out. Should it move like that? I dont think there is enough pin to even fit into the NIKE swoosh. Does that look right?

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC02833.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v309/Keith-OH/DSC02835.jpg

sutman

02-05-2005, 05:54 AM

There should be a spring behind the pin, which pushes the pin into the nike slot. If the spring is there try clean in the hole and pin to free it up.

CRSMP5

02-05-2005, 05:58 AM

looks like the spring broke.. LOOK FOR THE PIECES every savage they broke on the spring did BAD BAD things to the engine... a spring cut down from a bic lighter will get ya going again also.. also the pin its self can break.. use the photo above with the spring on the allenwrench to get a idea of how long its supposed to be..

ktmkurt

02-05-2005, 08:43 PM

CRSMP5 and MonsterBrad and others,
You guys Rock. It took me about 5 hrs to go through this whole thread. Wow, there is so much info. and with pics. One of the mods I am a little confused about. I couldnt quite grasp where exactly where CR is putting the CA glue. I saw the pics, but still clueless. Also I put on my SuperMaxx shocks on my LSP, they are about 1/4 shorter
then the stockers. I used the inside holes on the arms. I haven't even run this thing yet. I have had it for almost 2 weeks, but am waiting to sell my Racer Savage from last year to buy Motor, Servo, etc. Any how the suspension seems better, but will not
know how these shocks will perform yet. Anyhow thanks again on all the great info.

AKA "MCRAE RACING"

CRSMP5

02-05-2005, 09:41 PM

thanks.. basically the CA im using as a loctite, cannot use normal loctite on plastic as it will soften/warp it, you know how when you use alot of loctite on a screw into metal it forms and creates a thick shim between the screw and lets say a savage tvp bolt hole? same theory.. im using ca to fill the voids and make it so the screw is shimmed with no air to the part.. with the ca between the screw and aluminum rear arm brace of the front suspention and the screws that hold the front diff to the chassis, it will have less chances to come loose...

its a old trick i learned with loctite on filed away cam sprockets where id mod the keyway is to change the cam timming with out buying a 150$ gear to do so but yet fill the void to hold it tight to the key in the cam.. ;)

gr8taz nitro

02-05-2005, 09:43 PM

Almost ready for race season, started breakin on the stock engine just so I could run the truck, two weeks of setting on the shelf was enough.
Didn't get the peak diablo engine that I was talking about, got a new fantom fr27 instead, so we'll see how it does. Bought 2 of the new JR Z8800T servo's and so far I'm really impressed with em. 188 oz/in with .15 and coreless w/metal gears. Also got a new sportwerks 053 pipe and put on the stock motor and so far seems to be a good match, good low end grunt and I can run down a savage with a picco 26.
Anybody run a fantom motor before, took this one apart to check it over and found metal slivers in the carb area when I took the carb out. Cleaned it and got all the metal out and didn't find any in the block anywhere, but don't know if it's normal, I know hyper engines sometimes don't have all the flashing and metal cleaned out of em.

Monsterbrad

02-05-2005, 10:32 PM

I had a small block fantom and was not impressed but thats not to tell how the bb engines are.
The stock engine is kinda lacking power but its does fine for small tracks like I am running on tomorrow.
I will probably throw the Mach 26 in the truck this comming week but it has to be broken in.
Just want more power can never have enough!

CRSMP5

02-05-2005, 11:33 PM

mb you will need to do the xtm back plate mod to fit the mach in it.. the back plate of the mach is too big vs the simple parts change you can do to prevent hacking up the chassis and purple engine mount plates..

CRSMP5

02-06-2005, 11:22 AM

MB warped the 40 series mombo wheel today... he got his body... :D

Keith-OH

02-06-2005, 11:58 AM

I went to the hobby shop yesterday and they found the problem with my roto start system. The pin hole that goes into the crankshaft is over sized. So I bought a starter box to get around it.

ktmkurt

02-06-2005, 05:22 PM

gr8az,
Do you have a part# for the Hardcore Ti draglink for kyosho 7.5?

gcobra16

02-06-2005, 06:13 PM

I just updated my LSP page. You can see I did my fuel line a little differant than CRSMP5. I don't go around the tank. Still I have 2 ft. of fuel line, and about 1 ft. preasure line. THE PIT STOP (http://www.elltel.net/thepitstop/p13.htm) I am waiting for Racers Edge shock ends, and I am cutting out of SS front/rear forward hinge pin carriers. I will add photos when complete.

Monsterbrad

02-06-2005, 08:53 PM

Well just so ya all know I threw the Mach 26 in my truck tonight after the race!
I was sick of that junk 26.
Also the pull start off the GS 25 engine bolts up nicely to the Mach 26.
I am back to the pull start days but at least I got rid of that crap force engine.
Second heat it would hardly rev and the temp was 250 or so ran ok today around 275 or so..... Too hot so its out and in the spare parts bin.
Just have to hope for the next nice day to break in the rebuilt Mach!

Monsterbrad

02-06-2005, 08:53 PM

Oh yeah proline 40 series wheels are junk stay away from them.

CRSMP5

02-06-2005, 09:12 PM

LOL

mb that engine honestly loves 270-300f temps.. all force engines do for what ever reason.. yep your right.. the gs parts are a direct fit.. forgot that.. glad you got her in.. YOU DID remove the goofy on the crank between rod and 1 way shim though??

Monsterbrad

02-06-2005, 09:21 PM

the washer!
yes the engine thats in the truck did not have one when I tore it down to rebuild it.
If thats what you are talkin about.
I hope the Mach is enough power!

stonesavage

02-06-2005, 10:07 PM

the washer!
yes the engine thats in the truck did not have one when I tore it down to rebuild it.
If thats what you are talkin about.
I hope the Mach is enough power!
mb ''I think you'll have more than enough power'' i love my mach26 in my sut nice smooth powerband /super reliable/I like it better than my rossi28!

gr8taz nitro

02-06-2005, 10:19 PM

gr8az,
Do you have a part# for the Hardcore Ti draglink for kyosho 7.5?

hardcore racing part numbers are:
silver hcr04234
purple hcr04233
blue hcr04231

ktmkurt

02-07-2005, 09:58 AM

hardcore racing part numbers are:
silver hcr04234
purple hcr04233
blue hcr04231

Thanks,
They are like $34 from HCR. Any idea where I could get it cheaper?

jmangler1

02-07-2005, 02:49 PM

Hey guys,
Just curious to know if the Hot Bodies team drivers have won any races yet? I went on their website and their is no info on raceing the LSP. I might pick one up today. My LHS said they should have the Pro in when I went their on Friday. Oh yea is their alot of chassis flex on this truck? It looks pritty long so it made me wonder....

ktmkurt

02-07-2005, 04:33 PM

Hey jmangler,
There is a mod somewhere in this thread that uses the aluminum
damper rods from a Revo to stiffen the chassi.

What do you guys think of a Modded RB C5 Rody for the LSP.
I can get a smoking deal on 1 from a buddy of mine.

Monsterbrad

02-07-2005, 07:37 PM

RB makes great engines.
Also put the Mach in mine today.
Holy crap what a difference now the truck is much more responsive.
Can't wait for the next race day.
Just a load of take off power and runs much much better.
tried putting revo wheels on the truck today no go the spokes hit the hubs kinda stinks still debating on doing some modding of the rims but I don't want to take away the strength seeing's how the Proline crap bent on me yesterday.
RPM rims are my next thing

gr8taz nitro

02-07-2005, 08:07 PM

Thanks,
They are like $34 from HCR. Any idea where I could get it cheaper?
there 31.99 on tower. That's the cheapest place I've seen them. I got lucky and a local hobbyshop had em on clearance so I got mine for $20 :D

CRSMP5

02-07-2005, 08:32 PM

robert has modded revo rims on his.. says so far no issue.. BUT bruice tells me he broke a revo wheel on his LST a few weeks ago.. has something to do with the cold..

since kuhn took my 23mm hex wheels i plan to try the revo set up with cut bowties this spring..

CRSMP5

02-07-2005, 08:33 PM

p.s. im conspiring with a mfg on a stronger/better chassis.. so dont let that worry you.. i have had no issues with the stock one other then being a little on the soft side

kuhn2373

02-07-2005, 09:41 PM

gcobra16

02-07-2005, 10:07 PM

There are a couple of fixes for chasis flex. The REVO rods work. So do the tie rods from a T-Max. Chasis braces (www.elltel.net/thepitstop/p13.htm) I used the Lunsford titanium ones that come with the Pro-Line suspension set for a T-Max.

jmangler1

02-07-2005, 10:39 PM

Cool thanks! My LHS was supposed to have my LSP Friday but they said it is still on backorder so I have to wait to get it. I just want to know all the little things I need to do to this truck so when it gets here I can get rid of all the bugs!

gcobra16

02-07-2005, 11:04 PM

Just read through this forum. These guys have explained it all. I would put at the top of my list is to change center dif. oil, up-grade radio, steering servo, and change oil in your shocks. That will give you a good easy to drive truck as your starting point. Then just follow these guys advice.

Keith-OH

02-07-2005, 11:42 PM

I have broke 2 revo rims. One was from a major crash. The front wheels you dont need to mod. I have broke one front and one rear wheel. The front wheel i broke from running into the back of another truck sitting on the track not moving at 1/2+ throttle.

VMach

02-08-2005, 07:41 AM

What typr of Revo rim? Hurricane or Gemni rim?

Keith-OH

02-08-2005, 09:30 AM

I have broke the Hurricane rims

ktmkurt

02-08-2005, 08:29 PM

Hey kuhn or anybody,
How does this set up work on the LSP?
I have a set for my Revo. I was thinking about getting the adapters
for a Savage and trying them on my LSP.

I also put the stock LSP tires on stock Revo wheels. I will prolly
just use this set up on the Revo. I am not sure how this set up will do.
RatRaceway.com is hard pack, but loose. The Bowties work great there

kuhn2373

02-08-2005, 08:35 PM

i haven't tried the 23mm rims yet i am still waiting for my novarossi 28 that i sent to eb mods should have back friday if everything goes well

Monsterbrad

02-08-2005, 08:50 PM

Well maybe i will try the modded Revo wheels seeing's how they hook up well on the track that I race at.
I was also thinking about trying the stock SUT tires as I still have those from when I had the SUT.
They are great all around tires and look cool on the truck too.
i am still really really pissed that the Proline wheels broke on me well one did.
They were super expensive and now are junk!!!!!
NEVER AGAIN proline wheels are out.
except for the 23mm except I will have to hear about them first.
The only ones I have seem take the abuse of racing are IMEX and RPM.
The RPM i like the best so far!

CRSMP5

02-08-2005, 08:53 PM

ahhh someone from denver.. how ya doing.. :)

mike is guiny pig on the 40s 23mm hex.. with how your track is, id almost say street tires.. its that hard almost like concrete pourois feel with a little loose stuff here and there that you guys take leaf blower too.. yep ive been there, well before july i was.. if its still got that concrete like sandstone texture even though you guys are redoign the track, try some bowties.. they will work but will wear fast on what it was liek when i was there..

CRSMP5

02-08-2005, 08:54 PM

if MB would have listened on the 24$ worth of spinner nuts he could warentee them... hell id even try to sneek one past them.. then EBAY.. LOL

Monsterbrad

02-08-2005, 08:56 PM

Thats why the stock revo wheels hook well cause they are good on the street.
So are the SUT tires and the wheels seem pretty good too.
Oh well trial and error in 2 weeks plus the new engine!
Should be fun!
I have the bow tie 40 series now I have to try to get them off the stupid proline rims damn things!
Oh well they looked good while they lasted!

CRSMP5

02-09-2005, 05:40 AM

no proline will give NEW tires and wheels.. call them.. play dumb..

ktmkurt

02-09-2005, 09:26 AM

Hi CR,
I posted somewhere about Rat and then you followed
up with some pics. I am not sure If I got a chance to meet
you when you were in Denver last year. I usually go by
"MCRAE RACING" on other forums. If you get down to Rat
this year we will have to hook up. The weather has been mostly
cold out here. I have had my LSP almost 3 weeks now and still
haven't seen a drop of fuel. I have been tempted to just throw in
one of my Outlaw .26s from my Savvys to see how it runs. It sure
looks pretty though. We started on the track last weekend and I brought
my LSP for the guys to drool over. 3 of them are seriously thinking about
getting one now.

Yeah I think I will give the 23mm HD 40s a try.

I decided not to get the Modded RB C5 Rody, too much $$.
I think I am gonna go with a Werks Picco .26
Just not sure what clutch to go with.
I know some of you guys are having problems with clutches.
Any idea what clutch shoes to go with?

"MCRAE RACING"

CRSMP5

02-09-2005, 11:25 AM

ktmkurt

02-09-2005, 03:03 PM

CR,
I have had really good luck with my Outlaw Picco .26s.
I have 2 of them. also there are a # of guys using this
motor here. I could also get the sirio .27 for $200
I think the issue with the Picco is not having the silver
LSN needle.

Monsterbrad

02-09-2005, 05:08 PM

Don't waste your money on a sirio.
Just get a RB or something like that.
I like the Mach 26 its pretty good for the money.
Let us know how the 23mm wheels work out as I am not buying any new wheels except for RPM till I hear things about them.
Hey CR whats prolines contact info.
I could look but I am lazy! :-)

CRSMP5

02-09-2005, 08:28 PM

no idea.. id have to look mb..

IMO the mach is much better... ive got to try
hyper 8 port
rb = ws7II, tm728
rossie 28s, both 3 port and 8 port
the new hpi 28 8 port, s-25, 21bb
picco 26
mach 26 (only 1 i do not own)

of all of them, the mach or a spoer werks 21 is best, BUT to fit into a truggy, you need to change th ebackplate to a gs storm or xtm set up...

the rb/rossie 28s require mods to fit also, everything else is a direct fit..

gcobra16

02-09-2005, 09:43 PM

I noticed you don't mention a Wasp 28. I read a lot of negative things about the Wasp 28. I have about 1/2 gallon through mine. It's a pretty tight motor. It's starting to come around now. From what I have read it takes a gallon or so to start to loosen up. I only have one practice day on motor, and there were definetly signs of aw-some power. If this thing will hold a tune when good and broke in it will be a good motor. If I have to fight with it I will probably go with the Mach, or the OS. Both of these motors have proven to be strong, reliable, and hold a tune. Just my opinion.
CRMS3 let us know about HPI 4.6. I had good luck with my 25 just not enough power. I also have been eye balling the Savage SS 4.6. I built an SS last winter with a Mach.

CRSMP5

02-09-2005, 10:22 PM

i have not seen nor used one of the wasp 28s.. i can only speak on things i own or have tried of others..

my ss 4.6 is now fitted with glued tires, my paddles, supposed to snow tomarrow, the engine protection bar i have, can you say snow banks, else protection on wheelies, batts charged, tomarrow i have a break so ill hit the church and finish break in and get her tuned.. i will not have any official feelings till i get 15 tanks thru it total, thats a gal of fuel.. but ill have a idea as i just broke int eh rossie 8 port turbo thats modded by eb mods for a idea..

gr8taz nitro

02-09-2005, 10:38 PM

I've had wasp engines. The .26 and the .28, and both were good engines, lots of raw power, but I didn't like how hot the engine had to be run to get the most out of it. I was always runnin in the 265 to 280 range on the motor. Held up fine, and I got almost 9 gallons through the .26 with a sleeve pinch and a couple of rod replacements.

I think even tower's web site lists a pretty high normal engine temp for the wasp engines. like around 280ish and they run okay on 20% but the temps are a little more manageable and better power on race blend 30%

gcobra16

02-09-2005, 11:02 PM

I have noticed that it likes it hot. I had to cut bigger holes in body even at 50 degees outside. Wasp would climb up to 285 then start dying. I used to my Mach running 240, and tried to tune Wasp to 240 since it is still so fresh. After a gallon then I'll tune for 265, or so. I think your right about Tower saying that. I ordered a NOVA PRO head should be here Fri. I don't like such high temps either. But remember the Pro 15 in the orriginal T-Maxx. It was it's best at 300, it just wouldn't last. he he. It's supposed to be nice here this weekend, so we can get some track time, I'll get it tuned. Cool thing about LSP it rocks with any Big Block. CRSMP5 keep us filled in on 4.6 SS.

stonesavage

02-09-2005, 11:06 PM

I would have to agree with cr the wasp is NOT a good engine to be racing with;it's a great engine for bashing and cranken 40 ft wheelies but not for the track! mach26 way better for racing and there not expensive at all/another great engine (just picked one up) is the new sh 28 it's only $180 and is a real powerhouse!! with a smooth powerband /holds a tune and it will drop right in :D

gcobra16

02-09-2005, 11:23 PM

Sorry but I don't see where cr said it's not good for racing, and it's doubtfull that an LSP will crank a 40' wheelie (Savage yes/LSP no). I have a Jammin JP1 pipe, wich is a bottom end pipe, and so far I like the power band. What's cool over the Mach is it does rev (42,000). My buddy has the T-Maxx 21 Wasp and it's all pipe, so I was a little leary getting the 28 but I don't think power band is going to be an issue. I'm finding with the LSP that it can handle the rpms when ever I need them (agressive). Where as with my Savy you have to drive with more touch (Mach perfect). What is SH ? And thanks for in-put, we are having a two track, 6 race series, and I wan't to put the LSP out front.

vbgagnon

02-10-2005, 09:31 AM

Hey guys I'm just about finished setting mine up. I have 45 wt rear, 50 wt front. 7k front 30k center, 3k rear. My question is should the arms be level?

CRSMP5

02-10-2005, 09:42 AM

i run with arms level for racing.. i try to have them level moving down the track also... take off and braking should move the suspention, changing the shock oils, spring rates affect this movement, which also afftects the braking/turning of it too.. this is what you have to fine tune to your likings.. i put the hb blue springs on the rear of mine cause with the eb modded rossie 8 port the power/weigth trnsfer was so sevier the fronts had not traction, the change of the springs alone solved this..

stonesavage

02-10-2005, 04:39 PM

stay away from the picco.. expecially fior teh area you have for a track, its a on off switch, i had my lightning buggy and modded savage both with rbs, had the 28 in the savvy, but never had time to get them in tune for denver.. the tsais pipes would have given me away..

i say look into one of the new 28s, im breaking in a savage ss 4.6 picked it up last night to test out the engine, may sell the savvy as a roller still.. that was either lst or revo forum.. think revo one.. that i left photos on..

clutch shoes.. with the new eb modded rossie 28 8 port turbo i got i stuck with mugen composit shoes but went to a .9 spring.. much better..
Expecially for technicial (tight =slow=corners''ect)area of the TRACK! it's an on off switch' I agree 100% they are not for racing ask any experianced racer! rb/nova rossi those are race designed engines picco 26 was desinged an outlaw engine with rawpower for monstertruck bashers. To answer you other question what's an sh (sh makes the mach26 sportwerks xtm 24/7 and others)go to savage central to here reviews) ps i have 2 piccos that are great engines ;) for rippin up the yard

ktmkurt

02-10-2005, 06:31 PM

What mods need to be done when installing a Novarossi .28 or RB .28 ?

CRSMP5

02-10-2005, 07:51 PM

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mikeslsp/DSCF0080.jpg
need to make a hole OR shim the engine up 3mm and only a 14 or 15t cb will fit with the 50t spur.. a 47t spur will allow a max of 18t or 17t cb...

i made the hole.. thats mikes above, mine is not as perty..

with the use of these
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/newstuff2005/newgoodies006.jpg
has to have the hole...

the chassis i have being worked on (design phase) i have this area milled out, but even then the mounts above cannot be used as they drop the engine 1mm and it would require the hole..

stonesavage

02-10-2005, 08:04 PM

What mods need to be done when installing a Novarossi .28 or RB .28 ? lol :D the novarossi 28 8 port is plain nuts!!thats why they say you get what you pay for. I put a nonpullstart sh28 in one so i'm shure a rossi 28 nonpullstart will drop right in.

Monsterbrad

02-10-2005, 08:23 PM

All this engine talk oh my !!!!!!!!!
Any way here is my theory on suspension.
I like my arms just off full down with the set screws the reason for this is because when you are jumping the longer the stroke of the arm the less likely the truck is to bottom out that why I have my arms almost all the way down when you pick the truck up I like this set up and it works very well for me.
The truck sits level when dropped from about a foot off the ground and it has a bit of power roll like cr was explaining and it seems to be alot now with the added power of the Mach 26.
I might have to change springs and I am going to try 50 wt in all the shocks to see what that does.
The next race will tell.

Keith-OH

02-11-2005, 12:39 AM

I just put a set of Kyosho c hubs on my truck. I hope these last longer then the stock ones. The only ones they had in stock where the 20 deg. hubs. They fit fine but what will the 3 deg. difference do? Should I adjust anything?

CRSMP5

02-11-2005, 06:10 AM

well no idea.. its a caster item, it ill change how it goes thru a turn, i cannot say it will be better, may make it harder for tight corners, all i know is a stock c hub on th ebuggy turns much nicer then the 22* ones did..

Monsterbrad

02-11-2005, 07:04 AM

Keith oh
What was the temp outside when you broke the hubs???
The plastic on these trucks does not like the cold.
I also forgot to mention that i saw a guy at the track this past weeekend break a steering arm on the servo saver.
I have never seen this before!

VMach

02-11-2005, 07:45 AM

Here is what I have set-up my truck with:

-camber: 3 degrees of camber all four corners
-front toe: 0 degrees
-rear toe: 2 1/2 degrees toe-in.(56mm block)
-front diff: 3,000wt oil
-center diff: 7,000wt oil
-rear diff: 2,0000wt oil
-frt shocks: 50wt oil/black spring
-rear shock: 50wt oil/black spring

It handles real good but I think the center diff oil could be thicker. 10k would probably work better. I ave a O.S. V-Spec w/2050 pipe on it, mugen clutch with aluminum shoes and 1.0 springs.

CRSMP5

02-11-2005, 09:25 AM

this is for mb and others who may have always wondered about..

tire weights and styles..

we will start off with the outlaw
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/panther/1.jpg
6oz

different style adapters that will fit the truggy
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/bowtiecomp001.jpg
M is the new 23mm hex, .5oz
N is the savage central adapter .4oz (note these are original design ones)
O is stock .1oz

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/wheel002.jpg
6.7oz these are original soft sidewall, still need to weigh mikes harder ones

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/wheel003.jpg
them on rpm clawz with stock foams 6.4oz

CRSMP5

02-11-2005, 09:30 AM

now the bowties...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/bowtiecomp005.jpg
8.5oz those are 23mm hex wheels
8.9oz on the stock 14mm dish wheels (they bend and break way easy, with hex/adapters they weigh the same)

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/bowtiecomp002.jpg
mikes with trinity 3 stage foams on rpm wheels 8.2oz

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/bowtiecomp003.jpg
mine on rpm clawz with stock foams 7.8oz

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/bowtiecomp004.jpg
on outback welds 40s, for use with the sc adapter 9.2oz

CRSMP5

02-11-2005, 09:39 AM

some other misc racing tires...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/tirecomp/wheel001.jpg
hpi dirtbonz on q6 wheels, yes i did the lettering, 8.0oz

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/LeeCarey/902.jpg
multchers, photo from LeeUK 8.3oz

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v510/LeeCarey/904.jpg
orion street, photo from LeeUK 8.3oz

http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/tires/2.jpg
A = 40 masher = 12.3oz
B = big joe = 13.6oz
C = 40 series bowtie on velocity (14mm hex) = 8.9oz
D = panther plowboyz on RPM wheels = 9.3oz
E = 40 series road rage on outback weld = 9.9oz
F = stock savage on rpm with trinity 3 stage foams = 12.5oz

gcobra16

02-11-2005, 07:38 PM

Iv'e been waiting to here how the SS 4.6 runs. I just ordered an SH 28 pro. Does anyone have one of these, and is it true to have 3.5 hp @ 28,000 rpm?

CRSMP5

02-11-2005, 07:58 PM

there is a really really big review of the sh over in the engine section of savage-central..

i have the new hpi 28.. still need to finish break in

gcobra16

02-11-2005, 08:18 PM

lol :D the novarossi 28 8 port is plain nuts!!thats why they say you get what you pay for. I put a nonpullstart sh28 in one so i'm shure a rossi 28 nonpullstart will drop right in.

Where did you find non pullstart SH 28 pro?

stonesavage

02-11-2005, 10:28 PM

Where did you find non pullstart SH 28 pro?
congrats your gonna love this mill like cr said check out savage central many tips and great advice. sh makes an 21race( sh-21pro comp) you just need one that lines up; I took that backplate and cut my crank thats how i make a sh28 pro (i hate pullstarts)I no that the mach26 has a version of non pullstart it might? fit as well not shure! i know the /xtm 24/7 backplate fits for shure if you wanna go the rotostart way.

Monsterbrad

02-11-2005, 10:44 PM

I still have to get ahold of proline and see if that can take care of my bent rim.
i hope the mach is enough power
I think it will be!

gcobra16

02-12-2005, 12:15 AM

So stone your saying get the back plate for the sh 21 non pullstart, and cut the crank on the sh 28?
And is it true 3.5 hp at 28,000 rpm ?

Monsterbrad

02-12-2005, 12:58 AM

Well CR told me that the his modded 28 wants to pull the wheels.
Impressive for a single speed race truck with such a long wheel base!

CRSMP5

02-12-2005, 08:28 AM

and a center diff... ill hav eot put the stock black springs back on it so you can see mb.. also headed to crcrc today....

Monsterbrad

02-12-2005, 11:52 AM

I must say that the MAch makes this truck pull like a tank also.
I was very impressed with the take off after changing the engine.
Shows that the Mach engine just has a good amount of power even without the gearing of the LST.
I like it!
Cr I would like to see that.
This truck pulling wheelies would be awesome

gcobra16

02-12-2005, 01:15 PM

So what Clutch bell are u running with SH 28.

kuhn2373

02-12-2005, 05:24 PM

hey brad the mach is a awesome motor for the money on my second one in my savage what i dont like about it for the lsp is not enough rpm's thats why i got my novarossi 28 eb modded it says after mod 40,000

Keith-OH

02-12-2005, 07:29 PM

Hi guys. CRSMP5 come down to my local track today. I think he needs a new motor. I think that thing is to much for him to handle in his LSP. You need to give it to me. :) That truck just has sick power and top end. I never seen anything like that before. He can come out of a turn and give it gas and it just wants to pull the front tires. From a dead stop it just roasts the tires. I will get the same engine when I upgrade from the stock engine!!!