Hot Bodies Lightning Stadium (PRO/RTR)

[CRSMP5]

Hot Bodies has created us a truggy... (next 3 threads are the HB adds for them, followed by my actual pro photos)

I'll start with the Pro rtr version


http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightsdadiumpro.jpg
55005 1/8 Scale Lightning Stadium Pro (RTR)

Kit includes:
• .26 Power Factory Engine
• Long Wheelbase Main Chassis
• Aluminum, Long Suspension Arms
• 4mm F/R Shock Towers
• Front CVA Joints
• F/R Long Shocks
• Full Rubber Sealed Bearing
• Racing Wheels & Tires
• Low Profile Stadium Truck Body
• F/R Sway Bars
• Hardened Differential Gears
• Radio and Radio Gear
• High Torque Steering Servo
• Fuel Bottle
• Glow Starter
• 12 "AA" Batteries
• Plug Wrench

Equipment Needed:
• 20% Nitro Car Fuel
• 7.2V Battery for Jump-Starter
• C cell battery for glow ignitor

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_sdadium_wide.jpg
The lightning Stadium is intended for racing and has been designed to be ultra wide and low, for excellent handling characteristics

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_fuel.jpg
The fuel tank has been widened and lowered, keeping the same size and lowering the center of gravity

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_brakes.jpg
A closer look at the braking system reveals dual front brake rotors and front and rear adjustable bias to stop the truck in a hurry. This angle also shows the low profile upper deck with a laydown style steering servo type mount.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/ligh_stadium_front_arm.jpg
Super long aluminum front suspension arms provide a smooth ride and keep good consistent traction at all times. The hub carrier sports roost deflectors to help keep the outdrives in good condition.

[Chevy-SS]

This thing looks awesome. I race my Monster GT all the time and I love the crap out of it, but I get a little sick of having to race against all these guys that are basically using 1/8 scale buggies with MT tires (truggies). Truggies can be beat, but the pan chassis, lighter weight and lower CG really gives these guys an advantage.

I want to buy a killer truggy to use in those races that allow truggies to race against legitimate MT's, like my Monster GT. In those cases, I'll keep the MGT under wraps (sadly) and simply use the truggy. Hopefully, more tracks will exclude truggies from racing against real MT's.

This thing looks like the truggy to buy. I really like the way it looks and the long wheelbase. It's beautiful. I'm gonna buy one and have it ready for next season.

[CRSMP5]

wow its finally up.. up in the nitro off road section is a lightning thread.. been discussions going on in it for a few months... take a look up there.. ill fill in this thread now that its up!! :) thanks!!!

[CRSMP5]

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_rear_arm.jpg
Super long aluminum rear suspension arms keep the traction flowing and the truck in control. The rear hub carriers have a dirt shield to keep harmful dirt and debris from reaching the internals of the axles.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_brace.jpg
The Lightning Stadium comes heavily fortified with a beefy rear chassis brace for lateral support

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_squat_block.jpg
Interchangeable squat blocks allow for fine tuning of the suspension. Front and rear sway bars are standard

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/light_stadium_chassis.jpg
The chassis is longer than its buggy brother to further smooth out the handling characteristics

these are photos of the proto type one.. things did change for the production version that the following rtr photos will show and them my photos of the pro version will also show to some detail.

[CRSMP5]

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/stadium_rr_chas.jpg
55006 1/8 Scale Lightning Stadium RR (RTR)

Kit includes:
Lightning Stadium RR (RTR) Features:
• .26 Power Factory Engine w/Jump Start
• Long Wheelbase Main Chassis
• Front and Rear chassis Braces
• Spiral Bevel Gears
• 50 Tooth Center Gear
• Composite Long Suspension Arms
• 4mm F/R Shock Towers
• Front CVA Joints
• F/R Long Shocks
• Full Sealed Bearing
• Racing Wheels & Tires
• Steel Differential Gears
• 2 Pc. Racing Clutch
• Low Profile Stadium Truck Body (Yellow)
• F/R Sway Bars
• Radio and Radio Gear
• High Torque Steering Servo
• Fuel Bottle
• Glow Starter
• 12 "AA" Batteries
• Plug Wrench

Equipment Needed:
• 20% Nitro Car Fuel
• 7.2V Battery for Jump-Starter
• C cell battery fro glow ignitor

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_arm_comp.jpg
The Lightning Stadium suspension arms are much longer than the lighning2 buggy arms

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_spiralcut.jpg
The drive trains spiral-cut gears are smoother and more durable than standard gears

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_casterblock.jpg
The front caster block has a dirt deflecting shield to keep dirt out of the drive shaft and bearings.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_radiotray.jpg
The servo deck is low profile and the steering servo is mounted in the laydown position to get more weight down low.

[CRSMP5]

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_radiobox.jpg
The radio box is also low profile, keeping more weight down low

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_rear_hub_carriers.jpg
The rear hub carriers also have a roost shield to keep dirt out of the drive joint and bearings

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_chassis.jpg
The chassis is long for extra stability, good handling and a smooth ride.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_engine.jpg
Lightning Stadium comes standard with the new Power Factory engine, that has an all new carb with tricked out porting that makes the truck really fast!
The fuel tank is wide and low for low center of gravity.

http://www.hotbodiesonline.net/lightstad_tires.jpg
Racing style tires and dish wheels come standard and provide excellent grip on almost all surfaces!

[CRSMP5]

now onto MY pro version, at this point ive owned it 2 weeks, have a list of issues, but they are such stupid issues it just requires simple fixes...

lets move onto some photos..

this comes with a wing mount, but no wing to install a 1/8th scal buggy wing for the true truggy look..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp003.jpg
the included goodies
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp007.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp009.jpg

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp011.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp012.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp013.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp014.jpg

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp015.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp016.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/lsp017.jpg

there some 1st photos..

dogbones in teh rear are same leangth as a LST goodie if i break one easy fix, the hexes are savage 25 style so my outback weld adapters fit!!

this thing lacks a 7.2v batt and a c cell for the glow ignitor.. a gal of fuel and those things and its running..

the tires suck :? well i bet they will work nice on a nice hard packed track, but very very very soft..

tomarrow i rip her apart, good electronics, the rossi 28, and looks like my out back weld 40 series with bow ties will go on it.. its a little on the soft side.. but i can stiffen her up..

i paid 599+tax to get her.. so id expect the non pro version to be 400-450

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/4.jpg

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/7.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/8.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/9.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/10.jpg
some shots beside a savage thats been modded for race, but a idea of the size of this.

[CRSMP5]

some prerace photos with a new body, i decided to use my off set bowties which makes it as awide at the savage above which happens to be as wide as a LST with these same wheels.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/30.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/31.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/32.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/33.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/34.jpg

hpi bronco modded to sit ral real low..

[CRSMP5]

issues...
well i found a issue on the lsp.. i went to pick it up by the rear bumper and felt something move.. kinda like when your anti bending rod breaks a screw you can feel the chassis flex.. i had to mod the mount cause the way they have it worked out and set up from the factory is a NO WAY IN HELL issue.. it needs a spacer added to it to get the rear bulk brace section to be tight... i cut off the offending ear/issue and now all is well there, but the 2 plastic mounts that sit on the chassis also needs the cross bolt and nut tightened up.

the center diff oil is a little thin, it unloads the front wheels pretty easily.

now why did the front CVD break.... i have to get info to where this came up, but the drive shaft is too long/the people who made the cvds hardened the cross pin two times (HB will replace them so if issue call them up), basically it sits too deap in the diff output cup, never noticed it, but when the suspention is all the way compressed the diff cup locks up on the axel snapping the T section off the CVD... the cures.. simple 1/4" fuel stopper on the shock shaft to prevent bottoming out OR cut 1/4" off the outdrive from the diff and eliminate the section of bind.. not bad for a 1st production run truck though.. there is 1/8" more shock movement once the diff and cvd come to bind, LOSI LST cvd shaft is of exact legth, and a associated mgt cvd shaft can be used, a little shorter but will eliminate thi sbind with no other mods.

lacks loctite... very unlike hb on their other lightning series buggies...

i did not use the stock engine or electronics... so no word on that.

my race report of the lsp..

practice... i somehow managed to bend the aluminum cross link between bell cranks.. i think i need a 2nd one to stack on it to prevent this in the future.. never had that happen on a buggy...

qualifier 1 3rd tank fo total fuel.. 45sec lap im impressed.. set tq of my group of racers..

qualifier 2 ran hard but serious hard to handle in dusty situation.. somehow crack a front c hub... but no issue.. but will be replaced.. need to find a set of aluminum c hubs for a gs storm....

A-main.. i came in 3rd.. lots of hard competition.. funny part.. around the 7min mark of the 15min main i loose front wheel drive.. the right front CVD drive pin into the diff cup sheered off BOTH sides of the CVD... normally ony one breaks but no not me.. both break... im glad i have 50k oil in the center diff or i would not have pulled 3rd with a 2wd truck...

now my thoughts on it... i thought a LST was easy to jump.. *censored* this thing floats in the air.. it is hard to have a bad jump, traction rolls do not exist.. it just slides like a sprint car in a turn... the rossi 28 with a 15t cb is almost hard to drive... i did install a 2oz header tank for added run time in the 15min main...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/oink/pig1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/oink/pig2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/oink/pig3.jpg

thing on front of it was due to a co-worker that made me mad so was a fun jesture of voodoo doll to watch it get destroyed...

[Chevy-SS]

CRSMP5, so is this the truggy to buy? It kinda sounds like you like it, but I'm not sure. How does this truck fare against the Losi LST and the Monster GT? Also, how did you get one already? It looked like they were not going to be available until late October.

Thanks

[CRSMP5]

the first shipment went out fri before i got it on wed... there is some non pro versions on ebay right now..

well vs the lst.. i owned one and sold it to get this, they are both just as smooth over bumps... this corners better, as in you can slide it like a sprint car where the lst could not do it as fast of a turn, never owned a monster gt and no one at the tracks i visit race them, shoot bnever even seen oen run...

the thing the lst lacks is duribility.. savage wins that if 300$ invested into the savage... but if this turns as durable as the lightning buggies, it should prove to be th emost durable of them all..

the sut owner that took the race photos, it was broken, was debating on buying a lst... but now that he has seen this run has a hard choice... if i were to buy a lst or a lsp the pure differance would be truggy vs mt where duribility of the lst would make it fail the test at this moment...

there was a race in tx this past weekend, 12 revos, 1 modded savage, a 3000$+ tmaxx conversion, a assosated thinggy and a mugen conversion truggy, and i think 3 lsts... the lsp lapped the field by 4 laps... was bone stock to diff oils... :)

all i can say is keep your eye out and see what occures.. but if i had to guess at this moment.. its the mt racer for next year and with all hopes will finally seperate the truggy and mt class..

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/brace.jpg

new weakness... this is the 1st i heard of with is custom made cnc one that he used to replace the broken purple stock one.. i just heard of a 2nd one snapping.. so must post this cause i want it to be known..

today HB called me up.. my cvds are in the mail :D some pretty impressive service i think.. they called to inform me to expect them at the beginnin of the week!!

[Monsterbrad]

Well here I am I have the Revo and the SUT and a LST.
NOw another one comes out when is it going to end.
Any way CR????
HOw does this truck compare to the sut?????
I have heard that the sut will run right with it.
I am tired of buying new trucks so I think this will not be added to the list the SUT has all kinds of mods so I will just keep going with that.

[CRSMP5]

well you know how the sut is not stable over the rough like a lst is? imagine one thats as smooth as a lst... it also came in 1st today :) no failures or anything.. just went and kicked butt..

[CRSMP5]

HB has done good.. they supplied me new cvds.. :D

[CRSMP5]

today was race #3 on my truggy.. 1st was a 3rd place win with only rwd due to broken front cvd, explained why on lightning thread a few weeks ago, last week was a 1st place with me lapping field by min of 1 lap.. today.. 1st again and i almost lapped the challenger from last week.. if i did not get tied up in the end.. only time i needed a turnmarshel during the race :? i would have lapped the field completly..

me and the competitor.. ive eraned his respect by the way, cause when we are side by side it is a hell of a race that i end up ahead out of corners, jumps, and on the straight.. im just slower due to looseness of the track i take it easy.. i have done 28 sec laps.. but in each final race im running 32 sec laps cause i get so far ahead i take it easy.. he is runing a picco savage with etvps and all, and flat out said "that truck i sjust sick, it out corners me, takes me on the straights and jumps its a pure racer"

this truck will be the truck for next years racing of truggy/mt class.. i hope it seperates the mt truggy class at th etrack, cause right now its turning faster lap times then the 1/8th scale buggies and the mt has no chance to face it...

[jtomas801]

how wide are the front and rear arms at the hingpin side?

[CRSMP5]

im guessing you are meaning how wide it is at the diff/bulk? 2 3/8" onto the hing pin.. front and rear are same...

[ALJR]

CRSMP5, do you mind if i ask you a few questions about this truck?
i would like to know what the length is, from front axle to rear axle?
also, what size are the tires? rims? any off-set?
how wide is the truck, from wheel hex surface to wheel hex surface?
any way of fitting HB rims onto 17mm buggy hex's?

the reason why i am asking, is because i have seen the ofna blazer ss. which is based on the 9.5.. i happen to have an almost new 9.5 mbx that is collecting dust (ever since i got my KII) and was considering converting it to a 1:8 stadium. but i am not to sure if i like the blazer tires/rims as they don't look as big as the hb tires.. one thing i do like however, is that ofna just came out with a 2spd for the 9.5!

thanks for your time:)

[CRSMP5]

rc driver oct 2004, pg 36-38, posted this info as.. im sure their measurements are better then i can do,

length 20.55" 521.8mm
width 15.27" 387.9mm (ill guess hex to hex)
weight 9.4 lbs
wheel base 14.57" 370mm (axel to axel)

that should get you a idea.. basically the dogbones/cvds are same length as a LST and as far as i know that is the widest suspention to date on any mt.. no other cvd is that long... mgt is 1/4" shorter, savage is shorter yet but not by much...

stock rims are tmaxx diameter but skinny, they have 14mm hexes, i have rpm offset wheels on it with bowties.. ill be testing the stock tires this sunday on a indoor clay track though... those tires are very very soft and very shallow spikes and on clay should be perfect traction..

[ALJR]

CRSMP5, thanks for the info..

is the height of the tires also the same height as maxx-sized tires? or are they shorter? these are the ofna stadium tires:

http://ofna.com/images/blazer-tirecompare-big.jpg

[CRSMP5]

same height as standard mt tire..

[Chevy-SS]

RC Driver mag, December issue, awesome review of this truck by Greg Vogel. He won with it at RC Madness in August (I was there). I didn't have a clue that he was driving this thing. I got the Pro version on order. This looks like the truggy to have for next season.

[CRSMP5]

i gotta wait another 10 days till i can get a copy.. :(

and there is a forum where he talks on it also.. and i have to agree of all the truggies this is going to be the one to make others rethink..

[Chevy-SS]

CRSMP5, any idea where the forum is?

[CRSMP5]

sent ay a PM..

well 3rd 1st place in 3 weeks now.. today new track, indoor clay, tried out the stock tires as bowties were not a good thing, WOW.. i cannot beleive they worked as good as they did for as soft as they are.. i had traction from hell.. i was the only mt with traction.. nothing broke.. onto week 4 of race testing..

by the way.. i crashed it ALOT today due to new track and learnign a good line.. the main was 15min long.. ended up 4 laps ahead of #2 even with excessive fuel stops tryign to let others catch up.. had someone recording the race.. lst, revo, savage, and a mgt and wanted some good side by said racing that just did not happen..

[CRSMP5]

RC Driver and RC CAR has articles on the lightning stadium this month.. need to take a read guys.. too bad neither discussed the front cvd issue... but worthy to read reviews

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/indoor/1.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/indoor/2.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/indoor/3.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/indoor/4.jpg

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/indoor/5.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/indoor/6.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/indoor/7.jpg
some stills from the vid that i still have to get hosted somewhere.. see pretty lights for the indoor track.. this was race#3 on it..

[1 Bad STi]

somone host this man's footage.

Im curious to see this sliding buggy style evasive manuvering on the track.

[CRSMP5]

:D too bad the beginning fo the 15min main did not take from camera to computer.. the 1st 1/2 lap was funny.. me in 1, lst in 2 at teh beginnign he thinks he is goign to cut me off i jump over him for the lead, he is on my tail to the last photos jump, i was going slow as to not over jump it he lands on top of me, were stuck, the revo comes from 3rd place rear ends me, knocks me out like im a pea shooter, flips the lst on its roof and crashes on th ebig bump at teh end of the jump.. :D the cuda body as low as it is makes for a interesting get out of trouble item..

[Chevy-SS]

I have both those mags you mention and I read the articles with great interest. The R/C Car article review was favorable, but they did not seem as impressed as Greg Vogel (RC Driver). R/C Car was very disappointed in the stock engine. They said it had no sack at mid to high range. Are you still running the stock engine CRSMP5? They also complained about the steering servo, but I think it's a given that you never get a really good steering servo on a RTR.

CRSMP5, are you running with the plastic arms or metal? On the Pro version (metal arms), what breaks if you hit something? Will the arm give way? As much as I like the look of the aluminum arms I don't want to bend the chassis in a wreck. I'd rather just let a plastic arm absorb the impact and then replace the arm.

[CRSMP5]

i have the pro version.. so far not broken anything as i have not had a major hit to the arm, if anything was to give the front suspention brace tends to break, at least that ive seen on the web of others who have, its a 4$ piece of aluminum... i did crack a front c hub, would have happened in a bad jump/cartwheel type crash but easy to replace and kyosho, gs storm also make this same piece of plastic so replacements easy to obtain.. i do not know when i cracked it, happened on the 1st race day, noticed it when i went to fix the cvd and center diff i melted due to no front wheel drive... (that info is posted in the beginning of the thread)

never used the stock electronics as it is the same steering servo that comes in a savage, and the engine im just trying in a buggy and id agree top end is not impressive, but for a small tight track bottom end is great.. and being a force type engine, keeps tune, is forgiving and simple to use.

i like rc driver installed my own electronics and a real engine aka rossi 28 before i ever used it.. to me a "pro" version should not include these things as well.. we all know its going to get raced and those racers buying one usually have the stuff laying around..

won race again yesterday, 5 races with the truck, last 4 were 1st place on 2 different tracks..

[sugs]

I really, really like this truck and I think its different enough from the current crop of "truggies" to warrant being called something else. It really has been designed from the ground up to be a full race 8th scale 4wd stadium truck. A "truggy" is a 8th scale buggy with goofy wheel extension adapters, big wheels and tires, a truck body and other bits and add ons to make it what it is, a buggy impersonating a truck.

This HB vehicle is much different once you get past the 3 diff drivetrain. The chassis is an inch longer, the suspension arms are way longer to fit the wheels and don't require the adapters, the shock towers and shocks are optimized for the truck, etc, etc. It is a purpose built "Racing Stadium Truck" and I suspect we will find over time that it will blow away every "truggy" currently out.

JMO

[CRSMP5]

id agree.. but same token its a truggy, to me a truggy is ANY mt that lacks gear reduction transmision, the people who have made up flat pan chassis savages to run a center diff with savage suspention are not mts anymore cause you eliminated the drive ratio/drive reduction that takes place inside the transmission..

i also agree that this surpasses all other "truggies" due to elimination of wheel extensions and such.. i did make a lightning buggy into a truggy a while back, never handled this good that had wheel extensions.. i actually wanna fit a set of this suspention to my savage to gain longer suspention arms, and ive seen lightning buggy conversions use savage suspention so i know it will fit..

[sugs]

If you asked ten different people what constitutes a monster truck or a truggy, you would get many different answers, which is why ROAR is having so much trouble defining this class. This truck from HB will only make it harder to define the class, since the current crop of truggies are all conversions of buggies, and this truck is definitely not a conversion. I think Power Racing Products also has a similar racing truck in the works that they are about to release (I'm not talking about their Raptor) so we'll get another one to choose from. So what we the racer are left with is monster trucks that get smoked by truggies, which in turn are going to get smoked by these new trucks. ROAR is going to be pulling their hair out! I'm guessing that this new style of stadium racing truck will take hold and within a year or two the conversions will die off because they won't be able to be competitive with these new trucks(Stadium truck? Truggy 2.0? Truggy the sequel?).

[CRSMP5]

LOL... why not just call it winner.. :) and the others keep up if you can

[CRSMP5]

all i know is in the most simplstic terms, my definition of truggy vs mt is so simple that its easy to define.. and in all honesty, that is the differance between the 2 classes.. the $$ tmaxx conversion with center diff is a truggy, not cause of the center diff, but because it lacks any gear reduction inside a transmision, now the ofna twin engine truck is not a truggy, why is simple, it had the 2 speed geared to the slipper, that one action makes gear reduction of some kind, thats a tranmission..

do you see where im comign from on what the "differance" is? yes this is so far the best designed truggy, they took suspention and length into the design, which all the others will not have to compensate for..

[Chevy-SS]

Here's a nice vid showing the LSP in action. It really shows the ability of this thing to soak up some rough terrain at full speed. Also, a couple of good jumps.

Hmmm, this forum won't allow me to post the web site addy. What the heck is the reasoning behind that? Anyway, you gotta substitute "r c p i c s" where the "******" is. That stinks that you can't even post a web site addy.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=42317

[CRSMP5]

yea i know.. ****** had to have asked this forum to not allow its links.. the sc store and a few other things dont allow linking.. you also forgot to say it is a rtr non pro with a RB ws7 in it... i have not seen the vid as rc pics will not work on my computer as it is somehow banned and all i get is the hotlinking error.. saw that post on a different forum..

[Chevy-SS]

.........you also forgot to say it is a rtr non pro with a RB ws7 in it... i have not seen the vid as rc pics will not work on my computer as it is somehow banned and all i get is the hotlinking error.. saw that post on a different forum..

If you have not even seen the vid, how do you know which version it is and what engine it has? Just curious as to how I may have missed that information.

Do your comments mean that the Pro version would be even better? Although I don't see how it could handle much better than what it showed. The thing soaked up rough ground real nice. It really looked like a buggy, except it handled rough ground better. It is awesome.

The only thing I would like to add to mine (when I get it) is a 2-speed. Is there one available, do you know?

[CRSMP5]

the 2 speed from the lightning street will fit it, 100$ for the tranny part, then a cb then the gears for the cb.. a good 150$ add on.. and there is only 1 vid i know of online which was posted on the other forum i told ya of, and happens to also be 43127... :) the owner posted there and gave up the "goodies" on it..

and never ran a rtr non pro version.. but wanted you to know what it was.. its possible the rtr non pro weighs less due to composite arms and less aluminum bits.. but as ive learned int he past.. pro is the way to go.. :D

[Chevy-SS]

all i know is in the most simplstic terms, my definition of truggy vs mt is so simple that its easy to define.. and in all honesty, that is the differance between the 2 classes.. the $$ tmaxx conversion with center diff is a truggy, not cause of the center diff, but because it lacks any gear reduction inside a transmision, now the ofna twin engine truck is not a truggy, why is simple, it had the 2 speed geared to the slipper, that one action makes gear reduction of some kind, thats a tranmission............
OK, so if I install the 2-speed from the Lightning Street into my LSP, are you saying I then have a regular MT? Or are you suggesting the rules should stipulate a full transmission, with gear reduction inside? I would agree with the latter.

I also think the chassis needs to be addressed in the rules as well. As much as I like this LSP, I still want to be able to race my MGT in regular MT class against MGT, LST, Revo, etc. and I don't want to see any truggies in that class. Most guys still have the traditional MT's and if they keep getting blown away at the track because they are forced to compete against the truggies, then we will lose a lot of racers.

It's gotta be fair to be fun.

[CRSMP5]

no the 2 speed is not a tranny.. there is still no built in gear reduction.. IMO a truggy is any big wheeled item with direct drive to the ring/pinion.. even the 2 speed is direct drive.. now if the 2 speed had a gear to turn a slipper unit then to the center bones like some ofna trucks, or kyosho trucks, or such then it becomes a mt cause there is some form of gear reduction before the ring/pinion.. even if the reduction was 1:1 it is reduction... as rotating mass still plays toll..

chassis IMO does not matter... to me how is a truggy chassis any different then the LST, MGT, tmaxx? its still a flat plate with supports.. yea the supports are in different areas and on top insead of below, but they are all flat chassis.

im still voting for a breaking up of the classes. OR how about making a IMSA 1:1 style race and class different trucks in the race so they can race eachother but not against eachother.. with the electric timing why not score the racers seperatly?

stock class, mod class and truggy class.. back when i was a kid my father was pitboss for a enduro race team, there were vetts, all the way down to the pontiac fiero (84 series with the 4 in it) all racing at the same time, but scored seperatly for the different classes. in a way i think this would evoluntionize mt racing.. grass roots racers who race 1 time a month have a class and others to race with on the track, but the pro racers can keep racing and will have to learn how to PASS the slower competition..

[sugs]

Hey, I like this idea. It would help alleviate the problem of not having enough trucks for a particular class. I know at the track where I race there are sometimes not enough MT's to justify the time needed for heats and a main so they frequently get thown in with the 8th scale buggy class. This might help bring more MT's out if they know they will be scored differently. If it works for full size racing, why not RC?

[CRSMP5]

my thoughts too.. not enough trugiess out there yet, so would be a good way to get new people to be competitive against each other, normal racers against each other and a place for the truggy

[Chevy-SS]

Yeah, I agree that when there aren't really enought vehicles to fill the track, then racing everybody together (in separate classes) is the best solution. I never like to see only three or four guys start a race, as one or more will almost assuredly break, and then you end up with two guys racing, or maybe just one guy finishing laps. Ten vehicles on the track is much more exciting for participants and spectators.

[Chevy-SS]

..........chassis IMO does not matter... to me how is a truggy chassis any different then the LST, MGT, tmaxx? its still a flat plate with supports.. yea the supports are in different areas and on top insead of below, but they are all flat chassis.......
Buggy/truggy chassis has lower CG than MT chassis, because of reasons you stated above. That's why chassis needs to be considered in truggy class rules.

Also, I would disagree about calling them "all flat chassis". A true MT, like my Monster GT, does not have a flat chassis at all. Neither does the LST, Revo, T-Maxx, etc. In a buggy/truggy, the entire chassis IS the flat plate. In a MT, there is typically a flat spot built into the chassis to attach driveline pieces, but the chassis is multiple components.

[CRSMP5]

problem with chassis idea.. what if i said i had a savage modded with TVPs lower cg then a truggy and it only has a center diff? would not be a mt, it would be a truggy.. never finished the design though due to never figuring out a header for it... more options of headers now though so what would keep someone from doign this same thing to foil the mt class... and yes if i wanted to build the kit it would require less then 200$ (60$ in TVPs, center diff of choice and different rear drive shaft and servo mounts/linkage) of parts and a front and rear end of a savage..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/panther/ext003.jpg
teaser pic... i have a much more refined set up with lower CG then that

[CRSMP5]

P.S. i plan to get a set of lightnign stadium suspention to add onto my savage for the added length it has as it aids in how well it floats over bumps... in other words i have the ability to make the ultimate truggy with the craziest idea ever conceived...

[Chevy-SS]

Interesting concept you have there. Is that intended to be a sideways mounted engine? You may have reduced CG because of engine weight, but it looks like the mounting area material raises CG enough to offset any gains from the sideways engine. Plus, there will be a tremendous centrifugal load on the engine mounting area as this thing hits big bumps and such. The weight of the engine and tranny (or diff) will want to twist that mounting area. However, it's an innovative idea, just not sure how practical it would be. But, many of the next-generation technologies are discovered in just such a manner. Kudos to you.

BTW, what does "TVP" mean?

[CRSMP5]

tvp = twin verticle plate..

and like i said. i have one with much lower to it, head is under the top of the tire which is lower then the lsp ;) i have it to a point i could cantilever the shocks, was original plan till traxxas stole that idea, and tires would touch the ground when its flipped over with no body on it.. like i said, a sick idea...

[Cryhavoc]

Personnally I think this "Truggy vs MT" is all moot. The Lighting is a "1/8 scale nitro Staduim Truck"... Basically a new class. Its no longer a truggy. You can't take the chassis for example and interchange it with the lightning buggy without changing a bunch of other stuff as well. Same with the arms. The technologies of the systems are the same but the HB "Buggy" and "Stadium Truck" are two completely different vehicles. Sure right now its all lumped together but mark my words, as soon as more mfgs come on line with a dedicated 1/8th ST, MTs and Truggies will be pushed out to either their own defined class or relegated back to backyard bashing.

Its directly comparable to 1/10th electric buggies. As soon as Associated released the RC10T all conversions and wannabies were forgotten and the rest is history. You now have 1/10th scale "Stadium Trucks" aka pure racers, which were bred from buggies yet are two completely different vehicles. The same thing is most likely going to happen with the 1/8th scale Stadium Trucks. I'm only surprised it didn't happen sooner.

The biggest problem I see in MT racing is that the stock MTs available are not dedicated racers. The Revo is probably a start in that direction but until a defined class is established with defined criteria, it'll always be a mish mash of what shows up on race day. In this instance, a Truggy is just as much a contender as a $$+ Savage mod.

Mike

[Chevy-SS]

Personnally I think this "Truggy vs MT" is all moot. The Lighting is a "1/8 scale nitro Staduim Truck"... Basically a new class. .............

The biggest problem I see in MT racing is that the stock MTs available are not dedicated racers. The Revo is probably a start in that direction but until a defined class is established with defined criteria, it'll always be a mish mash of what shows up on race day. In this instance, a Truggy is just as much a contender as a $$+ Savage mod.

Mike
Interesting points, Mike. However, I think this discussion is very relevant, IF we want to attract (and keep) more new racers. I mean, let's say a new racer shows up with his slightly modified Revo. He is then forced to race against the truggies and gets his doors blown off. How excited do you think he'll be about returning to the next race?

The LSP does appear to fit the definition of a "Stadium truck", but I don't think it's a new class. It's a purpose-built "truggie", designed to compete with the converted Kyosho buggies and other similar vehicles.

I would take some issue with you when you say the biggest problem is "stock MTs available are not dedicated racers". Who cares if they are dedicated racers? It's fun to make a racer out of a MT. They can be modified and tuned to race pretty good.

I actually think you are closer to defining the biggest problem when you say, "until a defined class is established with defined criteria, it'll always be a mish mash of what shows up on race day." I couldn't agree more. You hit the nail right on the head with that statement.

-------------------------------------------

CRSMP5,

TVP = Twin Vertical Plate; Was I really supposed to know that one? ;)
-------------------------------------------

[ragamuffin]

I wouldn't mind trying one, but since I already have a broken-in Picco .26 Outlaw, buggy header and hard-coated 86 pipe, and some pro electronics (Futaba 3PK), I really don't need the included radio gear.

Maybe I can find a used roller later on in the year...

[CRSMP5]

i sold the stock radio, threw the engine in a lightning pro buggy i got for 50$, son ended up with it for his b day, i also had the rossi 28, and full electronics for it, but for this, i cannot say id want someones leftovers.. right now im still running stock shock oils and such in it and all but toe is stock too..

hmmm if you use a lightning pro2 chassis, all but the rear brace and rear cvd/driveshaft fits... so your wrong in that theory.. the series 2 chassis has all the series 1 holes in it to fit the series 1 radio box it has.. but series 2 servo layout..

i need to pull my front end off before sunday, the aluminum brace for the rear mount of th efront arms has come loose.. talking to robert from atomic he gave me a idea of drilling 2 new holes in the chassis and bolting it to the chasis also.. im going to put machine thread screws in with CA to see if it comes loose again and if it does ill do a tech tip/how too on that mod we discussed.. im also removing the stock front brace and installign a lp1 front brace cause i hate ball ends.. but for 5 weeks of racing and 5 1st places, not bad till i had something come loose..

now last week i sold a rtr version at the LHS to a guy thinking of getting into racing.. he used to race 1:1 cars and had never been to a rc race yet, h ehas been drag racign people with his twinzilla and such, but real off road racing is a new experiance for him, for the 500$ it costed him, i look at it like this, a real engine, for now the stock will be just fine on the indoor track, some diff oils added to it, the little weak links i have posted fixed, and a real steerign servo will get him competitive on the track for under 600$.. now tell me what other mt off the shelf can be as competitive?

need imsa style score system.. i know the past 5 times ive raced ive made very few friends as they cannot keep up with me.. be it revos, lsts, 2000$ moded savages, 2000$ modded tmaxxes, the only thing i know of thats half competitive is a LST cause the one so far is my only competition (sirro 27, rev removed and so on so far from stock).. but im to the point of turnign faster lap times then him aka setting tq for the day more often then he was at the beginning. my avg lap has always been faster though...

[Chevy-SS]

Damn interesting that an LST can give you a run. I know you say it's modded up pretty good, but heck, who runs a stock truck anymore????

[CRSMP5]

well the LST has the advantage the others lack, the long suspention, a stock LST handles so well and glides so easily when in the air that it is a contender, just when you cannot finish the race due to a broken diff case, or broken CVD where the wheel rolls away, it comes in terms with a gs SUT on will it finish the race.. i sold my LST to buy the LSP, i only got the LST to test it out, and it vs a 2000$ savage if you have a high RPM engine (8 port race in my tests, the rossi 28 did not have a high enough rpm) will cook the poor savage with the wasp26 and a 18t cb..

this past summer was a nice test out and win lots of mt races with other then savages. till the LST got 2 gal on it as long as i did simple mods to keep stupd stuff from happenign all was well.. but once 2 gal hit the stub axels would snap at the CVD lettign the wheels roll away, after a few freebies from losi i gave up cause i could get less then a tank of life till the wheel rolled away.. the LST won the 1st 2 races it was in, the 1st day of racing took alot of fixes liek wheel hexes, different bolt set up for the tierods and such to make the A main, i actually got bumped up from b to A on the 1st race day due to not finishign a single qualifier due to weaknesses.. all i had done on the truck was put a rossi 28 in it... i had issues on teh straight away keepign up with the savage, it was cooking revo though, but savage racer broke on the a main to give me the win.. the followign week with the 8 portrace in it i was winner.. savage owner could not keep up..

so in all fairness, i can say ive tested it raced a revo with both and so far the easiest one to win with and race is the lsp.. in stock form.. now add some tuning time to the LST and its a contender but durability is a issue till RPM makes some suspention, real CVDs made.. thats where the lightning series has always been quite good.. durability is unreal, even with the mfg errors in design on this they can be modded easily to work properly.. i just do not understand why the pro version has a engine and electronics..

[Chevy-SS]

Very good point about Pro version. Does ANY racer keep the stock electronics? The answer is; NEVER. Also, there is no point in giving a racer a crappy rtr engine. But, it is still a very nice truck and I can't wait to get mine. Since the season is over here, I am in no hurry. Just so long as I have it by Spring. The LSP and the Nomadio (or maybe Spektrum) are the two big RC products I am looking forward to using.

It's a great time to be in RC racing. I think we all need to get out there and promote the hobby more. I gotta believe there are a lot of NASCAR fans who would love to be doing some of their own racing instead of just watching it on TV all the time. Plus, there are a lot of street-rodders (like me) who realize that street racing with real cars is just too dangerous (and costly) nowadays. RC racing gives you a lot of those thrills for a lot less money, and it's safe.

[Chevy-SS]

the 2 speed from the lightning street will fit it, 100$ for the tranny part, then a cb then the gears for the cb.. a good 150$ add on..... :D

Does this 2-speed have a center diff? I assume it does not. Are you gonna put a 2-speed in yours, or do you think it is best to have the diff?

I see guys putting 50,000 wgt oil in the center diff. At that point, why bother having it at all? It seems like the 2-speed would be a better choice.

[CRSMP5]

well im not happy with the design of the 2 speed.. i dislike the finger style 2 speeds.. the 1 speed, IMO is just fine, if a 1/8th scale buggy can do 60 with 1 speed why does it need 2? i made a ofna 2 speed fit a lightning buggy :) its got a clutch shoe style which will slip if a bad jump, rember no slipper clutch so finger may get damaged, and no it eliminates the diff.. why 50k oil, which i put in mine after the 1st 1/2 tank, it works like a slipper clutch (if it was locked think of the stress it would create on teh driveshafts).. i think this is the 1 reason the buggies dont have them, bad jump, normally you land on 2 not all 4 wheels so teh diff gives.. ;)

[Chevy-SS]

Yes, I did not consider the strain on diffs when missing a jump. Buggies get the biggest air, so that would be a lot of impact. Center diff would mitigate that quite a bit.

[andersun16]

The thing still lights up the front wheels when unweighted slightly - even with the 50K oil in the center diff. That stock motor is not as bad as some have made it out to be (I'm using a Jammin JP-1). All I did was clean up the port a bit after running a tank or two and I just may end up keeping it in there a while. Granted the stock electronics are garbage, but they'll be good enough to throw back in it when it's time to eBay it! I have noticed a ton of chassis flex - mostly in the rear. I firmed up the front by replacing the stock front brace with a CNC'd one from a Hyper 7 (a little mod needed) and I added an "upper brace" which is really a TMAXX turnbuckle that runs from the open hole in the steering plate to the front right diff plate mounting hole (the empty one was too close for this tbuckle to work). But the rear is flexy. I see they have a part number for a 7075 chassis and other hotrod bits - but I haven't seen these parts out yet. . .

[CRSMP5]

the rear brace has a major flaw in design..

1st look at where it mounts to the tranny with the bolt..

lIl l

I is the brace, the l is the plastic... with the gap the bolt does not get tight.. the 2 solutions

lIl L remove L and tighten bolt (how i did mine)

lIl*l * add a spacer to this area to prevent the plastic from deforming so the bolt can be tight

next the bottom L plastic pieces of the brace to the chassis, the thru bolts on mine were loose.. make them tight

after you do this see how it feels, if you pick it up from the rear bumper you can see the brace move..

the front CNC brace, the lightning pro buggy has a cnc one thats a direct fit :)

[CRSMP5]

what hotrod parts? pro version of buggy/truggy has most of the hop ups.. engine mounts are same as kyosho :) if you want aluminum finned the new 777 series is driect fit, ive found the best/cheapest is pro version of HB products cause you get all the other goodies..

im confused on the 7075 chassis also.. supposedly the pro has it, but nothing reflects that it actually has it.. im honestly thinking of getting a thicker chassis made, cnc to mill out areas for weight and have a real hot rod chassis.. i need to mod it so i can use a stone gaurd under the pipe as my pipe is getting beat to heck got some good dents on it from other racers

[Chevy-SS]

CRSMP5 - IF you get a chance, could you maybe post a pic or two of how you did the chassis braces?

Thanks

[CRSMP5]

ill get one up sunday evening..

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/brace001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/brace002.jpg

there both samples.. mine is #1 where i cut the ear off, 2 is one that has a spacer added in..

now you all need to ask monsterbrad what he thought of them today, note the word them, mine and a non pro version were there at teh track, the rtr was with stock electronics and engine.. its the one i sold at the lhs to a customer wanting a new toy with racing in mind, h ewas in beginners class, 1st time ever on track with 0 practice, crashing every 5-10 sec, still got 10 laps in where i turned 11..

my race results.. cam ein 2nd :( ran out of fuel with less then 200ft to go in a 7min main.. i was still a lap up on the 3-5th places, but the winner today was a LST running revo tires.. and i just took lead from him seconds before mine shut down, got tangled up at th ebeginning due to other racers not paying respect to fact i was #2 qualifier but they made me sit at the back of the pack with out letting me up front.. so they could all crash and tie me up..

the impressive truck today till final race was a revo, he has spent 7 weeks dialing it in and finally has it workign for him.. also today we ran the track backwards.. so it was a all new learnign experiance..

[andersun16]

I already put a spacer it there upper rear brace mount - it helps a little. The plastic pieces that mount the brace to the chassis are suspect. You have this huge aluminum brace and then cheesy flexo-plastic braces to mount it - they should be Aluminum. The stock chassis may be 7075, but I doubt it - and it certainly isn't hardened. I'm thinking somebody will have one out before too long. Everything is closing down here in the northeast so I'm running out of run time.!

[CRSMP5]

to make new L brackets out of aluminum block would be easy :) just need a drill and tap, but my thru bolts were loose.. so check them..

where in the NE are ya? the indoor track i use is in NE ohio 15min south west of i90 and like 25min west of eire pa

[Monsterbrad]

Ok guys here I am !!!!!!
I am selling the Revo
I ordered the LSP today from Speed Zone!!!!!!!!
Can't wait to get it.
I was realy impressed with the Stock truck that I saw.
It was just as fast as my revo which lacks power badly which I am sick of.
The rtr version of this truck was truely impressive.
The pics of this truck on here do it no justice at all.
Remember though this truck is for racing and its not a Monster truck and I look at it.
Its a full blown racing machine and thats what I am going to do with it.
My LST on the other hand is by far the best basher.
I am going to race this truck stock with the few simple mods that CR has talked about.
I'll let ya all know how it goes and CR will be there to see how it goes.
Hope you are there in 2 weeks CR I will have the new truck out then.

[MotoX244]

The LSP looks like what I want to get. Where is the cheapest place to get it? I found it for $539 at rchobbies.org. If anyone knows of a cheaper place let me know.

[CRSMP5]

539 is a heck of a good price.. if its the pro version.. i paid 6 for mine, and heard of some for 550 out there.. but thats the lowest ive heard of.

you guys should have seen mb's eyes when he got to see the rtr and pro side by side.. also.. it was the first time i met him, never knew he was as close to me and the tracks i use till 3 weeks ago.. 8) it sounds as i fwe going to have a truggy race as mike wants one in the worst way, thats 4 of us for 1 track area.. boy racing is about to become interesting.. also mb im mounting a 2oz tank on mine this week to combat the lack of fuel for 7 min race..

[Chevy-SS]

It looks like he is correct about the price. Here's a link to the page:
http://h1071118.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=HBS55005

Man, that seems like a helluva deal for $539. Same truck is $600 at Tower, although Tower will give you $50 discount off of a $500+ order, for a net price of $550, so it's pretty close.



CRSMP5, thanks for posting pics of chassis brace fix.

[Monsterbrad]

yeah that is a good price I paid 570 shipped for mine.{speed zone raceway in TN.**
Make sure you find out what shipping is because I ordered some stuff for the Menace when I still had it a while ago from a place in Florida and the shipping was insane.
Hey CR you know anybody that might want my revo???????
Can't wait to get my new LSP

[CRSMP5]

ask ryan.. aka rd from track.. he thinks he wants to own a revo.. if you need his email i have it..

[synapse75]

Have you guys seen this
http://www.vertigoperformance.com/products/hb/6008.html

Ive seen most of you are serious racers, but that part in the center would make it fun when not running on a track..

[synapse75]

I think Im going to pick up the RR version..
Would the TNX wheels (and tires) work?

[CRSMP5]

TNX.. they 14mm hex or the 5 lug style?

i still prefer senter diff as it works like a slipper clutch.. :)

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR?
What are you running for dif oil in your center diff???
I had 100,000 wt in my Hyper 7 pro
that worked great for traction.
I also like that locker but like you said the center dif kinda acts like a slipper but with steel gears and having the clutch I might think about changing that over.
I think my new LSP should be at my house today but I am not there to get it :-(
Oh well Monday I will get to see it all new and shiny.....

[winning edge designs]

I'll have mine early in the week, just in time for Maxys challenge.....

So, from what i've read on the net it looks like 30K or 50K center diff oil is needed, as well as 50 and 40 weight for the front and rear shocks repectively?

Improve rear chassis brace area and possibly make a brace for center diff to rear brace area as well?

I'll mod the stock engine if I have time, or gear it up a bit, either should work. From what i've read it has real good bottom and actually losses traction, so a couple clutch bell teeth and we should be close?..........what do you think guys?....Thanks, Jim, J concepts dot net(We have a body on our site for the MGT that fits too!)

[synapse75]

TNX.. they 14mm hex or the 5 lug style?

i still prefer senter diff as it works like a slipper clutch.. :)

Id prefer the diff for racing, but there wont be any racing here til sometime next spring. For playing around the spool would be fun.

Yes I believe they are 14mm. I wont have any use for the stock tires for a while and I wanted to put something on it that retains the "stadium" look and feel.

Is 100,000wt thicker/stiffer than use a thick grease?

[CRSMP5]

wow.. did not expect you to be getting one :) im glad you are willing to give her a shot..

i say 50k center diff oil.. why.. well 1st race out with it when it broke the front cvd 7 min into the 15min main i was still able to compete and came in 3rd, yes after the race the gears melted the 5$ diff case, but i was able to finish.. the gears were also in great shape, just had to cut them out of the plastic.. and clean them real good as the oil smelled like automotive transmission oil that was burnt (from a standard shift car) was real stinky :eek:

i have yet to change any shock oils, i need to cause it is not silicone oil.. cold makes the shocks stiff, but i guess id try what you run in your set up buggy 1st..

BOTH of you need to make sure to add the anti droop screws into the lower control arms, set them so they limit the down travel so the shock ends do not, else the shock ends break, they will be in a baggy with extra diff shims.

rear mount i stated the mods above

cvds i have stated a page or so back, make sure to do somethign with that before races, mb saw in person and i do not have photos of mine, but with what ve said about them binging in the diff cup under full suspention compression in sure you can see it and solve that with any of the 3 methods ive stated, aka mgt cvds, limit shock compression or cut the diff cup to remove the bad area..

if you up the cb change the clutch shoes over to mugens with 1.0 springs.. the stock shoes melt easily if over geared.

before you build any braces, mod the rear one and see how much better it is, i think you will notice its not needed if all the mount points tight.

make sure to post a photo of the mgt body on it.. im still runing my bronco body due to how sick it looks on it...

[CRSMP5]

100k is thicker then 50k oil.. one thing about grease.. after a point i tpushes off the gears to the sides.. the oil stays in the gears..

before you lock it, i think id stifen it up as much as possible with thick oil.. rember no slipper, and the diff will work as a slipper.. i have too many tracks that like tripples and quads that if you do not hit them and able to clear them all the drive shafts get some serious abuse..

[CRSMP5]

also if you do not plan to use the stock tires give me a price... they work great on clay, but on really loose tracks suck.. and i know a few mt drivers that would like to own some.. also rember the stock wheels are garbage when cold.. they shatter..

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to play around with the front a little probably limit the suspension till I get LST shafts or MGT shafts which ever are cheaper.
I am going to try to stay away from cutting the out put shafts on the front diff.
Other than that
I cant wait to see what my lap times are compared to the Revo!!!!

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR?
DO the MGT drive shafts fit this truck??????
Also should I do something about the steering arm in the truck???
I see you posted a while back that you bent yours....
Is this an issue like the SUT was????

[synapse75]

100k is thicker then 50k oil.. one thing about grease.. after a point i tpushes off the gears to the sides.. the oil stays in the gears..

before you lock it, i think id stifen it up as much as possible with thick oil.. rember no slipper, and the diff will work as a slipper.. i have too many tracks that like tripples and quads that if you do not hit them and able to clear them all the drive shafts get some serious abuse..

I know 100k is thicker than 50k, I was curious how 100k compares to grease. When I use grease, i pack it full, so the gears would always be in grease. I dont know why I need to say this a third time, but I would deffinitely use the center diff racing, I just thought a center spool would be fun to play with. I would keep the stock tires for racing in the summer.

[CRSMP5]

the MGT cvds are 24$ each, the LST ones are exact same length as stock, so diff bind still happens.. HB told me of the MGT ones.. they are not as long and ride towards the end of the drive cup.. but i cannot see spending 50$ on cvds when i can cut for free or limit the shocks.. ;)

the trick to the MGT ones are either you have to also change the bearings or take all 4 apart and use the stock stub axel with the bone section of the MGT one..


the steerign link, i have not foudn a supply of them to buy one, have not worked hard at it either, but the part that bends is the piece between teh bell cranks, not the top diff case to bell crank bracket.. its simple to bend back if you were to bend it, i actually wanna find a kyosho one so i can see if some of the machined links will fit...

sporry about that synapse... a trick ive been told is to put silly puddy in the diff and it will lock it.. alot cheaper to try a spool that way.

[winning edge designs]

Grease works like 1000wt oil, or less.....Stay with normal diff oils instead. The only place I've run grease in my buggies is the rear diff.

CRSMP5, i've found out that the stock CV axles had a double hardened roll pin in some cases, that shows black, rather then silver/chrome. The updated kits have the better roll pins in the CV dogbone ends, so they won't shear off.

The guys at Atomic Motorsports gave me some tips......5,10,2 diff oil and 35 front and 40 rear shock oil for most tracks. They said they like heavier center diff oil on high traction tracks only. He also said the stock servo saver can be overpowered giving the feeling of lessened steering, so run the outer mounting holes in the steering knuckles................He also says be careful of wheel rub at full extension ,etc with stock T maxx wheels...........We'll see, Jim

[CRSMP5]

i know HB also told me of the hardening issue, but Robert of atomic also knows of the diff cup lock.. look at yours when you get it and see if you would "let it slide" what you need to look at is how when the suspention is compressed the point that teh CVD and diff cup have no more movement, BUT the suspention still does.. they have the cross pin as close to the diff as you can get, now think of how torque and leverage works.. P.S. i did break one of the new freebies i got from HB.. so mine are cut and still being tested.. if i break another one id almost have to use the MGT ones... the LST one is still going strong by the way.. the LST shaft is 11$

[winning edge designs]

I hear ya, thanks for your help...i'm just trying to peice this all together the day before the maxys race, LOL.....my truck will be here wednesday afternoon, the race starts thursday! I'll be putting in a 5 port Novarossi, JP pipe, XS3 pro radio system, Bowties, Fusion reciever battery...upgrading braces, doing suspension mods, including shock oil as well as diff oil.......Should be an exciting nite.........:), Jim

[Monsterbrad]

Mine is waiting at home for me.
Can't wait to get back and break it in.
I am going to make a order at the begining of the week at speed zone for parts like a wing and some extra drive shafts for the LST just is case.
I also found a set of MGT shafts on the net I was thinking about getting those also but i probably will not have them till after race day next sunday.
Oh well this will be a fun break in cause its cold out side.... oh well

[CRSMP5]

i know where a set of MGT ones are on a wall..

use a hairdryer or something like that to preheat the engine, will make it alot easier..

what color wing you looking for ? same hobby shop has the "yellow" ones, but if you want a black one mike has a NIB one on his wall that browns keeps in stock.. im thinking they are both around 7$ also pick up a hayes 2oz header tank helicopters use cause the 7 min main will be real hard to finish in with out a little added fuel..

[Monsterbrad]

I bought a pair of MGT shafts off ebay!!!!
$24.00 shipped for a pair.
I will see if mike at speed zone has the extra tank for the main.
I have never heard of anything like that...
Is it a little tank that you mount in the car somewhere for a little extra fuel.

[NJRC]

hey all.....I am new to this board and frequently hop around different boards all the time and just wanted to let you all know that I have had my HB-LStadium since the beginning of Oct and I love the way it handles the track compared to my Savage. I now rather race the HB-LStadium and bash with my Savage.
I have the RR and only problems I has with my HB-LStadium were the known front CVD pins but to keep me up and running races, I traded another HB-LStadium owner for his rear dogbones and I use the dogbones up front until someone great like MIP makes a strong set of CVD's all around this truggy. Another issue I had was a broken front lower arm which I have JB-welded a few times per race but now I have a couple and spares on delivery and will be here next week. I don't want the aluminum arms since I rather have the flex of the plastic arms plus I have seem some of my friends that race the HB-LStadium pro versions break more surrounding parts from the stiffness of the aluminum arms. Anyways I rather replace $8 for a pair of plastic arms than $70 a pair of aluminum arms. Another issue I had was with the bottom shock eyelets breaking so I just replaced them with 3.5mm aluminum lower shock ball ends. I also changed the plastic shock caps to aluminum, Hitec 645 for steering, 525 for throttle, running a Wasp .26 with a THS pipe. I also added an extra brace support up front by the shock towers to help with the front end from flexing. On the outside I got the Proline Crowd Pleazer body meant for a MGT and rolling on Proline bowties.
Like I said before, I am happy with this racer.....and a good thing is that I have a Lightning 2 Pro buggy and some of the parts are the same.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1051.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v120/RMaliwanag/DSCN1053.jpg

[CRSMP5]

glad to see you have made it over from the maxx forum.. :)

what body is that?

and did you install the anti droop screws into teh control arms? with out them you rcorrect that it will break shock ends, but if you install them and use them as stops over the shock ends as a stop they seem to not be a issue..

where did ya find the arms at? i want to put a set on my sons buggy to start a truggy conversion on it..

[NJRC]

body is the new Crowd Pleaser 2.0 made for MGT and heavily trimmed

yes installed the limit travel set screws into the arms when I first got it but plastic shock ends still broke. I had broke two already before I switched to 3.5mm aluminum shock ends.

The arms were just released for limited availablity from Tower Hobbies so I grabbed a good amount of spares since the plastics run about $8 a pair.

[CRSMP5]

ahh issue.. you mean teh 3.0mm shock ends? the stock rtr shafts and even the pro shafts use a 3mm end, not 3.5mm like ofna/mugen/kyosho uses.. the pro they turn down the ends of the shaft to 3mm ive had to put mugen/ofna shafts in my pro 2 as this turned down section breaks, and came to found this issue is why i am double checking.. also whats the part # for the ends.. not been able to find a number for either the 3mm or 3.5mm ends..

[NJRC]

no.....I am not confused.....I did say 3.5mm aluminum shock ends is what I am using.
I did also say that own a HB Lightning 2 Pro buggy and those carry 3.5mm shock shafts which are pretty much the ones I am using now on my HB-LStadium. Lightning 2 Pro shock caps is also how I said I swapped my plastic shock caps to the aluminum shock caps.
I will try and find you a part number for 3.5mm shock ends in aluminum.

these are the racer edge shock ends that I use now
racers edge shock ends (http://www.racers-edge.com/store/customer/product.php?productid=23696&cat=438&page=2)

[CRSMP5]

well i know you said you swapped the caps.. but there is a few issues with what your saying, and i dont have a rtr shock to determine this, but the pro1 and rtr v1 versions have a 3mm shaft, the pro2 and stadium pro have 3.5mm shafts.. at least in all the paperwork ive ever seen, i could be wrong and they upped the rtr to 3.5mm shafts when v2 came out, but 3.5mm shock ends from a mugen/ofna do not fit any lightning shafts.. i had lightning pro1 shocks on my savage that liked to eat the ends and found this out, then had 2 broken shafts on my pro2 and also found this issue...

i guess what im asking is to double check the package they came in as ive need to buy aluminum ends for the savage set up, and 24$ to order wrong parts bothers me.. i just would rather confirm it before hand which is why i asked

also i just looked on maxxtraxx forum.. cannot figure out where i saw photos of your truck at.. i know i saw it somewhere..

[winning edge designs]

Has anyone tried porting the stock engine?........Jim

[CRSMP5]

no mine is in my sons lp1 buggy, i did take it apart to see this "newly ported engine design" as hb advertised and compaired it to a savage s-25 and saw no porting differance or crank differance.. so if you hav ebeen porting the s-25 with good results the same port job should work..

[NJRC]

well I never had problems yet with the racer edge shock ends fitting the Pro 2 buggy shafts used on the stadium.

but you could also look around for the aluminum shock ends that are made for the MGT or TNX to see if they work for whatever you plan on using them on.

also never heard of Maxxtraxx forum
i go by ,the same identity on all the other boards I check up on....RCNT and RCU are some of the boards.

[Chevy-SS]

......... the pro1 and rtr v1 versions have a 3mm shaft, the pro2 and stadium pro have 3.5mm shafts....................
How many versions are there? By reading your post, you seem to indicate there are currently four versions out. Am I reading it correctly? Racing is over until Spring for me, so I want to be sure and order the right truck. I don't mind waiting another couple of months.

[winning edge designs]

I think he is refering to buggies and trucks....there was a few running changes to the Pro and RTR(RR) kits as well though.........New stock will be updated kits, Jim

[Chevy-SS]

Thanks Jim, do you (or CRSMP5) know how I might be able to track these different versions? Is there something at Hot Bodies web site? I will probably end up buying one of these in February, just prior to the new race season. I would really like to be sure that I am getting the latest and greatest version, with appropriate updates already included. ;-)

Gracias

[NJRC]

I don't think HB will make a greatest version. Their is no real such thing unless they make a HB "Lightning Stadium 2 Pro"
However with the second batch of Lightning Stadium's, HB will have the known issues fixed and updated such as the CVD's.
HB just like any bussiness thinks about marketing their product and getting more out of it. Meaning HB will fix the bugs from the first batch but will not fix them all because they know that they can make money by selling a line of HB hop up and replacement parts.
So their will be a latest version out but not a greatest version unless you hop it up.
That seems to be the reason why when HB rolled it out to the public for sale, replacement parts were really not available because HB didn't know what to expect in faulty parts. So they couldn't keep making faulty parts for replacements so they held off for awhile to see what should and should not be mass produced and what should be updated.

[Monsterbrad]

Well I bought my truck from Speed Zone and I have to say I am a little worried about the version that i got....
I hope that its a second batch but I will just have to wait and see what breakes and hopefully somebody at the track will have retro fit parts from another 1/8 scale CR????:-)
Any way I am going to break mine in tomorrow using the heat cycle method so by tomorrow afternoon I should have it dialed in pretty good...
I will be to the race track early to see how things work out oh yeah CR I hope u will be there
I am also going to keep the factory tires for after the track area warms up a little cause CR said that the plastic is brittle in the cold!!!!!

[CRSMP5]

ok versions.. in the beginning of the lightning series this is how things worked.. aka back in 2002..
the rtr v1 came out in mid year
the pro came out 8 months or so after that v1
in april 2004 the pro 2 came out aka v2
then in july the rtr 2 came out aka v2

those are all buggies, ive owned a pro1 and a pro2, the stadium has 75% of the parts the buggy has, like shocks, radio set up diffs and all that.. the only changes are turnbuckles, CVDs all but front center, spur, shock towers, lower control arms... everything else is either v1 or v2 parts, radio box is v1, but servo lay out is v2, but it has all the holes to put v1 parts on the chassis.. ive been playing with hb buggies long enough to know the different parts, there is no list besides whats in my head..

mb as you see i bring a spare buggy to steal parts from if needed, else i have stuff in my parts box... as long as i do not break a lower arm all is good.. im going to purchase 2 sets of plastic arms, i want to put a set on my sons pro1 buggy and truggy it, and i want to put a set on my savage, upper turnbuckles a savage tierod will work if needed, and same for tierod, i still have 1 spare front CVD that HB gave me, i put the original back on, and still have a LST one on the other front.. so YOu have that covered if you borrow one from teh LST if needed.. the ONLY item i do not have a spare of is the rear center CVD, a rear dogbone with a savage diff cup, which i have will solve that and i use my spare CVD to keep going.. the CVD is a titch shorter in the rear then the front CVDs, the MGT would be a direct replacement, so thats the nice thing about my knowledge.. i know how to solve a issue with what i have on hand...

you need to bake the wheels and tires (preheat oven to 350f, turn off put wheels in on cookie sheet let sit 15 min and if they are done the glue is crystalized and the beads pull right out of the wheel, if not let them cool 30 min and try again), get some RPM wheels and reglue them on those.. trust me when i say that you will love how they work on the track and no other tire ive used works as good.. i have mine remounted on RPMs.. :)

i was turning 12 laps today, only 1 other mt, a LST that the RD borrowed, he was lapping me, but for a guy who races the track 3 times a week.. he better know the groove.. and he did.. but mine is same as i have been turning so im happy.. till i melted a aluminum clutch shoe and quit for the day.. they also modded the tripple and it really sux now.. its a need more practice and all will be good..

[CRSMP5]

also NJRC your wrong (im also banned from nitrotalk as hummerblowsme (sp????), starts bs with me and i tell him like it is, lots of info on the OLD lightning threads over there from me), the pro version is their greatest version, they have never came out with hop ups for the pro buggies, never needed any, and the design flaws on the stadium i do not expect them to fix/solve... they do not want to admit the diff binds with the cvd, the rear mount on the brace is a given screw up just to look at it, and this is where the stadium lacks over the buggy.. the buggy was designed by a company in oz land called sacker.. hb buys from them, rebadges them and imports them.. then they took the winning buggy did their normal "engineering bloopers" who rembers the dirt demon, and created the stadium.. those flaws are pointed out, easy to solve.. its just takes some insight to how to solve and what to look for.. admittedly.. the flaws are alot less then a savage STILL has and a savage requires $300 to fix the flaws and make it half of what this is box stock.. but i doubt they will be fixed by hb till maybe a new version comes out like someone said a lightning stadium pro2 that will finally lack the engine and electronics..

[NJRC]

CRSMP5.....I am a little confused of how you say I am wrong. What am I wrong about. You state you opinions from your experience with your own stuff as I have stated my opions of my personal own stuff. I don't work for HB and I don't think you do either so all the info spread in these boards are the opinions of the owners posting them.
By the way, HB did make hop up parts for their buggies. Adding Pro 2 parts to the first version lightning is considered a hop up to a better buggy.
As for you being banned from another board.....I really don't care....it was probably meant to happen.
And for posting things like so on other boards about other members, then yeah maybe it was meant for banning.

Not trying to start anything here, but geeeze.....relax and smell the nitro.

[Monsterbrad]

Ok guys this s supposed to be fun here a hobby lets all take it easy....
Hey CR thanks for all that info there I am going to order some composit shoes tomorrow just in case the stock clutch takes a crap on me.
My GS SUT fries clutches all the time but i just keep running it.
Well I used to to am selling it now.
Any how I tried some aluminum shoes before and I was not impressed at all.
The composits I found are better but everybody to there own.
I am going to start watching ebay for a HB buggy for cheap so I can have spare parts on the side......also was that Ryan you were talkin about lapping the field...
Where there many people there today???

[NJRC]

Monsterbrad.....if you keep frying clutches all the time, have you tried different spring rates?
On one of my bugs, I am using a 4 shoe Werks racing clutch that is completely adjustable and comes with 3 different spring rates and also has a choice of the type of shoes you want to use with it.
it's a bit high priced but canbe found lower at some LHS http://werksracing.com/clutch.jsp

[Monsterbrad]

That clutch is Awesome...
Pricey I did hear about it I just never thought about buying one.
I will think about that..
Thanks
I am still going to try the Composit shoes from racers edge or mugen I think and 1.0 springs....

[CRSMP5]

honestly.. so far im far from impressed with the pro2 buggy... the pro1 i got for nothing reminds me of how nice the pro1 i sold was.. the 2 handle completly different, turn completly different even when same set ups used..

but if you consider them hop ups so be it.. they are just stock parts that even the rtr2 version has.. now if they made different braces, like changing the stock front brace to a pro buggy version brace, no ball ends, that to me is a upgrade.. still dont know why the stadium lacks it. but its still not a real hop up cause the pro buggies come stock with it.. a hop up would be lets say aluminum arms for the buggy, not a stock part.. also if you buy a pro version, what hop ups are there? thats what i mean by your wrong on that.. they will not that i can see make hop ups like they do for savages and other things...

that photo was made after i got banned, i was the only person on that forum who knew where parts were sitting on walls, probally still am, but atomic is a great source now for parts which did not exist back then.

mb the stadium instructions suck real real bad.. i do not have a scanner that works on xp, but if you would like to photo copy the buggy ones, i can bring them sunday. they are real good and it was a big dissapointment to get the stadium ones. one day ill get them scanned and put onto adobe for easy dl, the last ones i had someone do were over 14mb for 1/2 of them.. :eek

i have to goto browns this week, i hate aluminum shoes, but lack of composite ones (mugen as the others i tried on my rb28 they were the only ones that worked besides the aluminum slider clutch set up) local forced me to use them, 2 races and garbage.. id rather have melted ones after 5 races then ones that cost 2x as much that last not even 2 races.. ahhhh the power of rossie 28, let me know if you need any HB stuff or anything like that as their prices are real cheap

[Monsterbrad]

ok cool thanks
I am not sure what I will need yet so I am just going to wing it till I know for sure...
If there is anything that you know for sure let me know..
I might have u pick some stuff up and I will buy it from you but i am on a limited funds deal here.
I did pick up a pair of MGT drive shafts complete of ebay for 25 bucks...
so that will be taken care of I hope.
I am looking into getting some rpm claws from a guy on ebay for 28 bucks complete set blue chrome.
tower has the same wide off set ones for 15.99 a pair that 2
28 for all 4 thats pretty good I think.
I will try that oven thing I hope that works....

[CRSMP5]

mugen shoes and springs, should be under 12$ :)

wing for mount, i think his are around 7$ has both yellow and black hb ones and alot of the others for much more..

ill call browns on the RPM wheels if you want.. or you can, i bet white ones are around 24 for a set.. but its up to you on i fyou want chrome.. all i can say is try to get the monster claw (3 y spoke) ones as they weigh the least.. and also.. th echrome or white ones can be dyed, if th eblu edoes not do anythign for you, imagine a black chrome on them...

[Monsterbrad]

Hey cr got the blue claws for 31 bucks shipped.
I just have to try that boiling thing now I hope that works...
Anybody else try this at all????

[winning edge designs]

I think I saw that clutch set-up on E bay for $62 or so?.........How are standard T maxx wheels on the HBLSP? A few have said they rub at full suspension extension?......Jim

[Monsterbrad]

I am not sure I would say that the off set is closer than the stockers.
Try the rpm claws wheels they are better and lighter and have the wide maxx off set..
CR has them on his truck and it looks good
I am going to have them on mine also..

[CRSMP5]

yes your correct, the non offset wheels hit the tierod at full lock around the point the arms are level.. i am running off set wheels, i would have preferred non off set ones for the indoor track due to lane width, but the joke of a LHS, not browns which is a hr south of me, only carry non off set wheels in chrome or blue chrome which i dislike..

im waiting fo rthe new proline 40 series with 23mm hex?? then will put them on it with bowties so i can have the BIG buggy look...

[Monsterbrad]

Cool can't wait to see that..
HEy cr I hope you are right about the oven thing and the wheels.
I would like to mount the stock tires on the rpm rims I am getting..

[CRSMP5]

well thats what i did to mine, you will need to wear gloves that are heat resistant, ive found to peal them off the wheels works best when the rubber is hot... but i can do it if it scares you.. if you cannot figure it out bring them sunday and even bring glue and wheels and the following week they will be ready..

once hot push on the tire by the bead.. you will know cause the tire peals right out of the wheel lip, may even pop a little as it breaks free.. then just work your way around, i found the outside beads were much easier then the inside beads.. aka idea of heatign them up a 2nd time if need be.. once the tires cool they do not come apart as easily..

also do not plan to bake any cookies anytime soon unless you like a little rubber taste... so do not do it in your mom's oven :)

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR I might just take you up on that offer..
I don't want to piss mom or the girl friend off buy making the oven smell like burnt rubber they will hate me for a while.
Although I could do it any ways:-)

[Chevy-SS]

MB, I have boiled off a few sets of tires and it doesn't stink up the oven or house. Use a big enough pot and just make sure the water level stays high enough. The tire will bobble around and it takes about ten minutes per side to get off. Wear gloves, cause you gotta peel the rubber off while it's hot.

Baking them all at once sounds quicker, but more dangerous. ;-)

[NJRC]

won't the plastic wheel get all bent out of shape from such hot temperatures in boiling water or even a hot oven. It takes me a few seconds to take a lighter to a plastic piece for it to start melting.
I rather just spend the money for a set of new wheels than risk driving around with a bent out of shape wheel just from pulling rubber off.

[CRSMP5]

we changing the wheels, we are after keeping the stock tires on strong wheels.. so thats of no concern, but i have not yet melted a wheel with either boil or bake method.. i have seen acitone melt wheels though..

also there is no direct flame being applied to teh wheel.. just heat in a oven or water thats boiling.. personally when i boil things i turn it off then submirge the wheel so i cannot accedentlly forget them with damage..

boil works, but it takes a day or 2 for the foams to be 100% dry cause to glue them with moisture in them makes stinky tire.. :D

[proraptor2625]

I just bought a lightning stadium rr rtr. The truck looks awesome and I cant wait to race it. I have a question though. The suspension is really soft. The truck bottoms out very very easily and I was thinking of picking up some thicker weight shock oil. Does anyone know a good setup for a track I have the stock springs and stock oil (dont know the weight). What oil should I buy? I was thinking 40-50wt. Thanks!

[CRSMP5]

there are no stiffer springs ive found at the moment.. im still running stock oils, i suggest looking into what the buggies at the track are using and use that as a start..

[proraptor2625]

Your suspension isnt too soft? Mine bottoms out like 4-5 inches off the ground and dropped...There are some massive doubles that would murder my lightning with the stock suspension settings...Im sure I could always mock my Kyosho setup...Thank you!

[CRSMP5]

hey mb i just got a set of tires and wheels off ebay 47$ shipped if you ship the rpm wheels to me i may be able to have a set done for ya sunday..

honestly, for everying ive run it on ive had no issue of it bottoming out in a drag dirt way.. you can use the "spacers" to bring up the ride height, but to be completly honest i like a plush feel to my stuff.. too stiff and you get tipping issues.. try it stock 1st is my suggestion then work your way up..

also make sure to read the thread for flaws thats been found and the simple mods to correct them.. on pg 8 ill reillerate them all, the past 2 pages i beleive they are all hit on.. i know they are on the 1st page for sure though.. i just dont like to rehit a topic on every page if ya know what i mean.. :)

[proraptor2625]

Yeah I saw all your tips and tricks...Ill make sure my truck is good to go using your fixes before race day for sure. Thanks again

[winning edge designs]

Ya, I hope the "new" 40 series wheels are decent...I've broken one wheel and bent $200 worth of wheel/tire packages already....At $100 a set, you'd think they would be a little better?

I'm staying with standard wheels until I see the new ones and how they perform......Jim

[CRSMP5]

proline used to replace them.. now they will only replace them IF you were using 26$ worth of spinner nuts for added support.. so if you still have the 200$ worth of damaged packages, call proline, an dship wheel sand tires back and they will give ya new wheels and tires.. used to be able to do that with photos thru email but it got abused..

so saying that im willing to give them a try, cause if they break i know proline will hook me up with new wheels and tires.. just for now the bomb set up on clay is the stock tires.. so that will be a deal with in end of feb, beginnign of mar for outdoor season

[proraptor2625]

Im not sure if this has been posted but I was wondering if you guys could tell me what parts are identical to the lightning buggies? Will any of the buggy parts fit on the stadium? Also are there any aftermarket parts available for the lightning buggy/stadium? Thanks

[CRSMP5]

go back 1 page, read post 113 thru the one photo.. ;) was talked about the other day..

hop ups.. should have bought a pro version to be completly honest..

[proraptor2625]

go back 1 page, read post 113 thru the one photo.. ;) was talked about the other day..

hop ups.. should have bought a pro version to be completly honest..

Naw the pro version wasnt my cup of tea...Im not a fan of aluminum suspension arms at all and I hate CVD's with a passion...I got the truck free anyways so I cant complain...

[CRSMP5]

well then the best way to do it i fyou want hop ups, aka pro parts, is to find a cheap pro roller bugy for things like the steering knuckles, aluminum suspention holders and such.. i got one for 80$ one day which is far cheaper then buying indivudal parts..

the gs storm cnc hubs think dynimite or someone makes them is a direct fit at 20$ along with some kyosho kani parts.. but not sure of what kani parts fit.. i know c hibs and such the same, the engine mounts same.. but thats it that i know of via photos...

[winning edge designs]

Teh difference between the Pro and RR is alot, it is a far better deal to get a set of plastic arms for $18 and have all the added items that the Pro gets. Hardened diff gears, cnc knuckles, aluminum arms (seem good, but move the breakage rather then stop it, typical for any vehicle).....I believe the driveshafts are the same in both though, only universals in front........Jim

[CRSMP5]

pro has center cvds also and tri breaks, also the front arms have a aluminum rear support on the pro vs the rtr.. 30$ part... plastic is 5$ for 2 though.. so can break alot of plastic ones...

but i agree.. if you dislike aluminum arms, buy pro and get plastic, 18$ and then you have a life time supply of spares for the track.. aka aluminum incase the plastic breaks.. i still plan to buy plastic arms.. just have not yet, ive never beleived in aluminum arms.. but they were not the reason to not buy a pro.. the other stuff outweighed that.. then to see the aluminum arms are 70$ for 2, your talking about 140$ worth of arms alone for a 100$ price differance..

[NJRC]

well then the best way to do it i fyou want hop ups, aka pro parts

a few post back

but if you consider them hop ups so be it.. they are just stock parts that even the rtr2 version has

I thought you kinda had mixed feelings about stock pro parts being considered hop up parts?

proraptor2625.....if you don't like the cvd's in the front of the stadium, then you can alwasy do what I did and find someone willing to switch their stadium to cvd's all around and take their rear dogebones and use them up front. This is what I did with a fellow stadium owner whowanted cvd's in the rear. I traded my broken cvd's for his dogbones. he kne wthey were broken since he was getting free replacements from HB

[CRSMP5]

guess you missed the "aka pro parts" i said there....

look at last post in the buggy thread.. see that chassis.. thats a hop up.. no ill put it here.. incase you cannot find it
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lightning/untitled1.bmp

thats a version 1 buggy aka original sacker racer part... by photo... id redrill it for all the pro2 positions or find a person who could copy it.. nice find on ebay at the moment..

someday ill own a sacker version.. like the blue more then purple...

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR man you guys talked alot on here since I was on last...
ANy way should I change the stock clutch for Sunday?????
I am not sure..
Plus is this engine stock as powerfull as the GS 25 engine...
Seems a little slow to me....

[CRSMP5]

i never ran it in the lsp, so hard to say.. stock clutch should be good, but ill have spares with me at the track as i picking up 2 sets of shoes from browns and to change the shoes is cake on it.. less then 10min of work and if you remove the 4 screws to teh purple plates do not even need to mess with the gear mesh

ive never ran the sut one so no idea.. but rember for the gas chamber engine is not key..

the one you saw was the stock engine, so its more then capable.. when outdoor season comes about we will see what im running an dhave access to so you can decide what power you want..

[xxxkat]

I thought the stock clutch worked fine,if anything change the springs to some stiffer ones.I to thought the stock motor was a bit soft on the top,I dont think it's as strong as the GS motor but it does out handle the GS..big time.I'm just going to run either a Ofna 28 or a Nova Rossi 28,I'm leaning towards the Ofna because you can get a roto start for it.. :cool: Has anyone tried running a bigger clutch bell(14 to 17 tooth).And the difference in the Pro vrs. RTR is more than the suspension arms and the CVD's,With the PRO you get a better chassis(7075 vrs 6065)same with the shock towers,You get hardened gears(Diffs),Rubber seald bearings vrs metal,better clutch alum 3 shoe vrs 2 pcs. clutch.better brakes,machined steering arms vrs cast.I'm sure theirs more.I bought the Pro and took the alum. A arms off..it was really easy and did not cost to much :rolleyes:

[proraptor2625]

Hey guys when I say hop up parts Im mainly looking for lighter parts. The shocktower design shouldnt bend seeing how low they are and the plastic bracing they already have. Id like to get a carbon fiber servo plate, a carbon fiber center diff plate. I want to make the truck as light as possible. Afterall lighter is indeed faster...Also Metal shielded bearings work just fine...Ive been racing RC's for a long time and have always used metal shielded bearings and they have never let me down...I still think the rtr is a better deal...Most of the "hop ups" you get swith the pro are useless...The only thing I see that is a real hop up is the 3 shoe clutch...

BTW: I bought 50WT shock oil today and put it in the shocks as a starting point. It seems to run a lot better. The truck runs 50% better already in the suspension dept. I now need to find some replacement springs...Ill have to measure them and see if I can find a spring that is close to the same length...Ill bet the springs are just 4 rear buggy springs. Ill have to look for some that are a tad stiffer to keep the chassis from hitting the ground. Yes I know the truck is supposed to bottom out but when it bottms out going off a curb the suspension is too soft.

[CRSMP5]

funny thing on the springs.. i have yet to find any that are as strong as the stockers, the blue ofna, dark blue, would not even lift the rear off the ground and those are the hardest springs ive ever owned for a buggy..

the stock 3 shoe is nto bad, even the 2 shoe is not bad, its a mip style clutch

i have a 15t cb on mine with the rossie28, cannot go bigger unless i mod the purple chassis engine plates as the back plate is against it, BUT one day ill mount a 47t spur on it to see what i can max it out with..

like the above photo of the buggy chassis, the one thats been machined for weight, im thinking of visiting a machine shop i know of to get a thicker/lighter chassis made up... cf not yet, never even seen cf for the buggy... they would have made it for the buggy i beleive 1st, and since travis is running what looks to be box stock lightning pro2s photo was in one of the mags from the worlds event, i cannot see it happeneing anytime soon.. even though photo of the buggy above makes me wonder what other parts it has that us "public" do not get.. it was also offered to me for 250lbs with shipping.... i hate xmas time..

[winning edge designs]

Actually, if you aren't worried about how long your drivetrain gears last(hardened on the pro, but not the RR) then the clutch isn't really needed either, both move the truck well.

For bottoming out, the springs aren't nearly as much of a factor as the oil. Think of springs more for weight transfer control, oil for spring control and shock valving for how well the truck bottoms and lands jumps, etc........If the static damping feels right with 50wt and 1.4 pistons, yet the truck still bottoms, try 1.3 pistons with 45wt. There is a point were you get out of the usefull range of springs and they won't be able to recover if the oil is too heavy, then it's time for stiffer springs. Like when the shock collar, or spring spacers are all the way down for a good ride height................Jim

[Chevy-SS]

Suggestion for CRSMP5:

You (and a few others here) seem to have a pretty good handle on the tweaks, tips and other issues with the LSP. I'm gonna be buying my LSP in the near future and I am certainly appreciative of all the info.

How about making up a simple web page that lists the tips and tricks? This should eliminate the redundant questions and answers here in the thread. Most questions could simply be referred to the web page, which would be a great way for folks to find their answer, plus they could also print out the page and have the info handy instead of having to look through hundreds of posts.

CRS, I know you mentioned creating a .pdf file, but I think the web page idea is best. That way, you can easily update it as new info comes available.

Just so you don't think I'm a complete slacker trying to get you to do all the work, I'll be happy to create and host (and revise as necessary) the web page if that's an issue. ;)

Thanks

[xxxkat]

On the Pro's up grades being useless I would disagree..I replaced the stock arms and thats all,Metal shielded bearings are fine but the rubber shielded ones hold up better.On the hop up's I would check to see if anyone is offering any hop ups for the buggy,It's been out longer,And on the Lightning Stadium I would think the biggest improvement would be in the Tires(thats weight savings)I would not run the bow tie 40's,To much weight and mass,you will tear some stuff up if you crash with these tires on.. :mad: found out the hard way.

[CRSMP5]

old work in progress (http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HB_lightning/)

[Chevy-SS]

old work in progress (http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/HB_lightning/)

Yeah, that format would work pretty good, I think. You want me to set up a web page for the LSP?

[proraptor2625]

Yeah I know what you are saying about springs and oil. Im running the 1.4's with 50wt right now...I have no issues with the truck rebounding yet so I think I could actually use the 1.4's with maybe 55-60wt oil...Ill have to test this setup out. I used to run my racing t-maxx with anywhere from 60-80wt depending on the driving conditions. But I think the stock springs and the 1.4's can handle 55-60wt so Ill have to throw some in...Ill let you guys know.

I have 4 tanks through the stock engine now and I must say the engine runs pretty well for a stocker. The only thing I am seeing as Im leaning it out is the top end kind of suffers compared to nicer race engines. I think this engine could be used in a race application for sure but I wouldnt use it if the track isnt a big/loose track. The bottom end seems fine to me.

Im also looking into getting a new body for it. Im not really into the stadium body. Id rather have more of a monster truck body. I hear the MGT bodies fit well. I also saw the HPI bronco and that looked like it fit well (I hate fords though). I also own a Tamiya TXT-1 and The body from that fits pretty well and looks a lot better than the stock body IMO. Anyone know of any other bodies that fit well? Im thinking of trying to get one of those HPI Jeep CJ8 bodies to fit on the beast or maybe the chevy silverado.

I also found some killer wheel/trie setups that I think would work really well with this truck. Th wheels and tires are made by OFNA and are kind fo an outlaw wheel and tires. They are a little bigger than 1/8 scale buggy wheels/tires and they are also a little wider. I saw them at my local hobby shop (ultimate hobbies). Ill try and find the name or part number for you guys.

The next thing Im going to do is install some of the hitec servos I have laying around...Hopefully I can get the truck to steer a little better, I might mess around with Diff oil WT also. Thats the only other thing I feel the truck lacks. But all in all a very nice race worthy truck.

[CRSMP5]

well honestly.. i can do the webpage.. its just i started on that one you see for the lightning thread.. i even have space to put it on with unlimited bw.. the issue ive had is i started that one, my son got kidnapped by his **** of what he calls mom, and stuff like that went into a when i get to it issue.. it would only take me a weekend to finish it up.. and well xmas weekend is probally a good weekend to finish it..

that page needs major updating for the v2 stuff and even the sacker info i have.. so it would be easier for me to finish it up then tell you whats in my brain.. :)

just keep the url in your fav places :)

ofna wheels for a 14mm hex?

if th estock engine is anything like a savage s-25 run it arouns 280 an di think you will be even more impressed with it.. but yes for a stock engine, a small track it has more then enough to go fast..

[proraptor2625]

well honestly.. i can do the webpage.. its just i started on that one you see for the lightning thread.. i even have space to put it on with unlimited bw.. the issue ive had is i started that one, my son got kidnapped by his **** of what he calls mom, and stuff like that went into a when i get to it issue.. it would only take me a weekend to finish it up.. and well xmas weekend is probally a good weekend to finish it..

that page needs major updating for the v2 stuff and even the sacker info i have.. so it would be easier for me to finish it up then tell you whats in my brain.. :)

just keep the url in your fav places :)

ofna wheels for a 14mm hex?

if th estock engine is anything like a savage s-25 run it arouns 280 an di think you will be even more impressed with it.. but yes for a stock engine, a small track it has more then enough to go fast..

The guy at the hobby shop showed me the wheels and Im not sure if they were made by ofna or maybe someone else..I know though the wheels are a direct fit on t-maxx type hubs..Ill ask him next time I go in...I guess a lot of truggy racers are using this setup...Ill let you guys know.

Yeah I think the stock engine is a really nice engine for a stocker. Funny thing is this is coming from a guy that has owned hot RB's, Nova's, OS's, etc. Im going to run it more when I get home and start to dial it in...Id even like to get another piston and sleeve kit and do some work to the engine...Ill bet it reacts well to porting/polishing...

[Monsterbrad]

I too like the engine but its 4 strokin like the LST engine does..
I tried a MC59 plug and that didn't do much...
I tried leaning out the bottom end today and that doesn't help that much either.
My SUT engine never 4 strokes and I am debating putting that engine in the LSP but I think that the 26 might have a little more and the bottom end than the 25 GS engine..
Help here with the 4 strokin thing when I let off the gass?????
Driving me crazy...
I do the heat cycle method when I broke it in so it should be good there...

[proraptor2625]

Well I was driving the truck around tonight and it seems the right front CVD bone pin broke..not the actual pin that holds the CVD together but the pin that slides into the drive cup by the diff..Totally sucks...Hopefully this truck isnt just going to be a bunch of problems...The hobby shop doesnt have the part I need either...Im pretty pissed off right now and you better believe hot bodies is going to hear from me in the morning...

[CRSMP5]

call HB they will send the cvds to ya.. thats the defective part from "double hardening" but it binds in the diff cup under suspention compression.. its the major flaw ive found to the set up..

ok.. now im starting to under stand mb's 4 stroke issue.. =)

keep it in it and ill look at it sunday, be there 8ish and we will get her set up, id prefer to use the outside so i can do a 100ft tune to it so cross fingers on beign dry, else we will do short distance tune, a little more tricky, but ive found with the 100ft one i can keep the same tune, still running my july tune on the engines and its not been a issue yet.. what it is i bet is pipe ringging but till i hear it run hard to say... its actually a common noise expecially when warming up.. both the lst pipe and hb pipe have this tone to it..

[Chevy-SS]

I keep hearing that the engine is marginal in performance, but have any of you guys tried 30%, or are you running 20%?? Perhaps 30% and a colder plug might give the engine the kick it needs.

[CRSMP5]

im using 20% and to run it arouns 300f you would be impressed as much as a savage s-25.. not going to get much more then that from it (unless you port it).. but on small track where heck if i am at WOT for more then 4 sec id be suprised.. the thing thats good with it, i have it in my sons buggy, set at 30% throttle, it does not load up, will idle a whole tank, and is responsive if tuned properly..

[Nitro-Olli]

I also had problems with those front CVD pin, they are black, and, as CRSMP5 wrote above, seem to be hardened twice; pin was changed, and now it works..

But in another forum people say that using the longer part of a MGT CVD will work..tried that, it didn´t, they were to short..they crab into the cup, actually, but only at the last end..

And, one more thing: I opend the differentials of my RR..alum internals..no steel..hate that!

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to have a tire cook out tonight in my oven...
Yeah the 4 strokin thing is just ticking me off...
The engines both rip they just sound choppy while idleing down.
Oh well
For all those having problems with their drive shafts I called Hot Bodies and they replaced the shafts no problems..
Just call them they are real good about it...

[CRSMP5]

hmm HB told me to use mgt ones.. not worth th e25$ investment to me to test fit them.. odd.. rember LST ones are exact same..

well mb just blew 90$ at browns.. got clutches, new body.. won some XXX Main stickies and masks off bannedrc last month time to use some.. and other misc stuff.. they evil people at times with offers to hold check to payday and such.. LOL..

let me kno whow th etire cookoff goes.. ill turn on my aim if you have issues..

[proraptor2625]

Well I called hotbodies today and talked to a guy named Brandon about my CVD issue. He was very helpful. He said he would ship new ones out tonight so I would have them by the weekend ( I live in socal). I got to talking to him and he said he actually races the lightning.

I asked him some questions and here is what I learned:

The regular stadium only has grease in the diffs. He said the grease is in there cause something about the stock final gears in the RR are made of steal and cant handle silicon or something...I didnt understand what he was saying...I have had regular not hardened steel finals and have used silicone and it worked fine...

He also said they have a ton of aftermarket manufacturers calling them about aftermarket parts for the truck. I told him they should make some carbon fiber accesories to lighten the truck as much as we can...He agreed and told me that he already pitched that idea and we might see some soon.

He also told me that Ofna and Mugen are working on their versions of a full blown truggy. Funny

But he races hit stock stadium with suspension/ diff oil changes with no issues at all. He said he usually gets top 3 everytime he races...

Also you can order parts from Hot Bodies directly!!!! So if there is a part you are trying to find call them up...

All in all I got awesome customer service and am very happy that I bought the truck. Just thought Id let you guys know

[Monsterbrad]

Ok the tire bake off not going to well..
Done it twice and I am still trying...
You have to flip the tires on the cookie sheet to get that side to release..
Oh well I will keep trying..
I told ya they are very helpfull.
The only thing is they want the old shafts from the truck and I don't have them I tossed them..
When I ge the new ones I'll call and let them know..
But they did ship new ones for free which is cool..

[proraptor2625]

Yeah their customer service was top notch...The brandon guy even invited me to come racing with him down here in socal...He said he would help me setup my truck if I wanted...

Its nice to see that their customer service isnt like XTM's...They have no idea what they are talking about...You go to their store (hobby people) and the people know nothing...One guy didnt know what a kyosho MP 7.5 was! I couldnt believe it!

[CRSMP5]

never pitch old stuff.. they are racers backups.. LOL..

i only had to bake mine 2x.. 350f preheat in oven, checked with ir temp, let wheels sit 15min in oven.. there was actually smoke comming from teh rubber when i took them out.. so mine were pretty warm..

hmmm never been able to buy direct before.. must be a new thing.. but something you need to know.. they dont keep a invetory of parts to sell.. its all a put it on order thing..

[Duster_360]

Went through that with HB over LP1 parts, their phone operator told me they order every week and ship as soon as they have it. They keep some parts on hand and those are shipped immed, the rest you wait for, but don't pay shipping again for subsequent parts shipments. Took them 3 shipments to get the stuff I ordered and about 6 weeks. They are a last resort option for me.

[winning edge designs]

Ran my Stadium Pro at Maxys today, went pretty well. I felt a little out of place racing against the trucks with all the tiny 1/10th scale tires, they look really silly and don't like the bumps much at all. I think some racers like them because they spool up faster, but, imo, it doesn't look at all like monster truck? That and the fact that Bill hagen and I are 2nd and third running real monster truck tires(bowties) anyway? Oh well.

The truck was awesome, ended up going to the 59mm rear toe block, 45 wt oil front and 50 rear shocks. My diffs seem good at 5,30,1 and I also had to double up my steering rack(stamped aluminum bar) since it bent a bit on an impact, trying to clear a 25 foot triple. Luckily I haven't short jumped the 40 foot triple on the back straight yet!

Tomorrow in practice, i'm going to try the stock tires, since some are saying they are dialed on this track. Should be, since holeshots are working in 1/10th gas truck......ttyl, Jim

[CRSMP5]

if its a hard clay they should work nice.. be carefuill though... th estock wheels are brittle.. so if you have time remount them if they work for ya on some durable wheels..

yep double that bad boy up.. ive bent mine 2x now.. i finally got another front hing pin brace, post pics later, and found a easy way to use it for added strenth but use the original pins with no issue and slight mod to the front bumper..

also my front rear a arm brace came loose again and i found i sheered one of the diff to chassis bolts off so i replaced my front bulk/diff case and am trying to see how the "CA" i applied massive amounts of to teh aluminum brace and around its holes will last.. im hoping it will act as filler between the bolts and the aluminum block so it cannot shift and come loose.. also have photos of that..

[Monsterbrad]

I can see I am going to have to buy another steering arm like I had to do with the SUT.
I am going to go over the entire truck before sunday and lok tite all the blots into the aluminum.
I hope that the dif case thing CR is fixable...
It sounds like its kinda a pain...
I hope this truck will be reliable.....

[winning edge designs]

Robert Reinhardt from Atomic Motorsports went out of his way to help me out with some Hot bodies parts, thanks to him I was able to get my truck in better shape.......Jim

[CRSMP5]

diff case takes 15 min to change.. LOL.. but i still have not figured out how i sheared the bolt off into it, but same token, what holds the front end onto the chassis.. i know robert ripped his off on the track..

since i was playing with CA i also made a bead around the case where it goes onto the chassis to see if it helps.. but again, im up to 7 weeks of racing on it and if i have to replace a simple 5$ part.. i cannot complain.. the real way to fix it is to eliminate the junk screws and get some grade 8 ones..

mb ya getta see the new body sunday in person, just painted her up tonight, daylight photos tomarrow, race sunday...

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/banned/banned002.jpg

i won some paint masks and graphics off bannedrc.com from XXX Main a month ago, and well this is the 1st oppertunity ive had to use them.. the photo does not do it justice.. wait for the daylight pics..

and yes Robert is a great guy to talk to and get help from.. :D

[Nitro-Olli]

Well I called hotbodies today and talked to a guy named Brandon.....

....The regular stadium only has grease in the diffs. He said the grease is in there cause something about the stock final gears in the RR are made of steal and cant handle silicon or something...


Okay, ask Brandon which kind of "steel" this is..

http://member.ath.cx/menni/lightning/0080.jpg

[CRSMP5]

its pot metal, sam ething the original v1 lightning came with, rtr2 and the non pro stadium.. its the same gears that kani and alot of other high $ buggies use.. less rotating mass and all.. i never had a issue with them in buggies though..

a set of HPI savage gears fit with no issue, and robert has the hardened ones in stock.. but i say run them till they break..

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mod002.jpg
the rear suspention brace of the front end, the rtr has a plastic one, the plastic breaks between the 2 screw holes and turns it into 2 seperate pieces, i used alot of med CA on the side that faces the diff and around and in the screw holes, i hope it builds a "shim" so the aluminum cannot move on impact loosening the screw up... ill be testing this to see how it goes

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mod003.jpg
my cut down drive cups..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mod004.jpg
the added front suspention brace, i used 2 ofna shims from their shim kit, they are the "washers" for the cb bolt and are same thickness as the e clip, with all hopes, some people have issues with e clips coming off, this little mod should help retain them, the pins were reversed, notmally the eclip is on the other side, but when reversed can easily gain access to the diff to change the oil..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/lsp/mod005.jpg
ahh the less then 2 races old mugen aluminum shoes with a broken spring and all.

[CRSMP5]

more body photos.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/banned/banned003.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/banned/banned004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/banned/banned005.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/banned/banned006.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/banned/banned007.jpg

[Nitro-Olli]

its pot metal..

What does "pot metal" mean (..sorry, not my native language..)? For me, this looks like alum, and I agree, same stuff as used in many buggies, but with those heavier wheels on my Lightning Stadium, there seems to be more stress on the drivetrain; the centerdiff internals looked pretty bad after a gallon with ws7, now that I changed the engine to an OS VSpec, I changed the internals in the centerdiff for Savage parts, and put some stiffer silicone oil inside; hope this will work.

But well, all in all, the Lightning Stadium offers lots of fun, you can race, you can bash, its fast and reliable..sold my savage for this truck, would do this again!

Heres a pic of mine, some of you will know it from another forum :)

Lightning Stadium RR with OS VZ-B VSpec, T-2050 pipe, Mugen Clutch, Traxxas Sportmaxx rims with HPI Dirt Bonz, double disc front brake, and Savage steel internals inside the centerdiff..the body is a 3 years old Proline Ford F-350 extended..
Also, I put some 7000 silicone oil into front diff, 30000 in the center, and grease in the rear.. :)

Olli



http://www.literacer.de/bildergross/lightningford.jpg

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR what oils should I run in the difs????
I am thinking about ofna 30,000 in the front and leaving the rear alone..
I got the 4 strokin thing down today.
truck is running great just in time for tommorows first race..
Can't wait hope nothing breaks

[CRSMP5]

do not worry.. ive got spare buggy for parts if needed..

front i left thin... i cannto say i would want thick for that track.. use a standard 5-7k in the front, center 30-50k, and rear stock is just fine.. i have stock in my front diff also..

yea i reconize the photo.. and i really hope they seperate mt and truggy this summer or my savage is pretty much done for.. except for back up situations..

so what was it on the 4 strokin sound? too lean too rich hsn or lsn?

[Monsterbrad]

I am trying the front a little thicker cause I have the oil if its not that good I will change it...
I have 50 in the center I liked that in the SUT
I richened up the low end and leaned the high end..
Made a nice dif...
I hope that my set up is ok for tommorow....
We'll see

[winning edge designs]

I think the truck comes with 5K in all 3 diffs, but might have 10K center, not sure. Either way the center felt to thin on the track, imo. The truck also seems to like dropping the nose over big jumps(like boggy Creek), so I went stiffer oil in back to help that, seems great now.............Jim

[CRSMP5]

put a tsais pro pipe on mine tonight.. i liked how it performed on teh rb28, and it vs the rb 063 i put on the 28 they are very simmilar.. so added a little bling to the new body.. pluse it makes more quiet.. see ya tomarrow mb..

[winning edge designs]

I put up a bunch of stuff on E bay from the Pro kit i'm running, stock engine, body, Radio, etc. if anyone is looking for spares.......:), Jim

[Monsterbrad]

I think mine is all ready...
Hopefully no issues tomorrow after I just spent like 6 hrs getting lok tite on everything and playing with dif oils and all that.
I'll let ya all know how it goes
CR will be there to see it...
This truck looks very impressive with the komodos on it and blue wheels and white wing..
c-ya

[CRSMP5]

another race day finished.. 3rd.. mb got 1st, and hate to say it either today or the upcomming sunday is my last race day there depends on person from ny if he is comming down to play for a day, but im sick of the one guy blowing the rd and him not inforcing rules.. and im to the point of posting this on his track thread for all to see.. i quit running 1/8th scale buggies due to the cheating of this same person.. and its over for me..

[CRSMP5]

ok.. since i doubt your seen these photos.. the issue with the kyomoto tires..

http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/truggy/2.jpg
lp1 with ofna 2 speed fitted with ofna wheels.. and a major modded truck body

http://members.aol.com/sxuldveight/rc/truggy/4.jpg

http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/panther/1.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/panther/2.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/panther/3.jpg

[CRSMP5]

mounted on the "truggy"
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/truggy/4.jpg
http://members.aol.com/toungbath/rc/truggy/2.jpg
it may not be as wide as the LSP but vs 95% all other mt it would cook it..

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR I was not aware that there is cheating going on there....
I know this goes on at all tracks in some form but what's up...
Email me or let me know.... please
Oh yeah the LSP is awesome so glad that I bought it...
Super truck on the track....

[andersun16]

Just raced my LSP for the first time at a pretty tight little indoor offroad track in PA. The track surface was hard sticky clay. The truck ran great. I made no changes to the suspension - even ran the stock wheels/tires - they worked best. The truck won the Amain in its first outing on a track I've never seen before. I'd like to take all the credit, but this truck was just a pleasure to drive - made me like like a pro. I had only had one tank of idle running through the motor when I got there. I took it easy for 2 laps and then started leaning/tuning and going for it. Each qualifier I'd lean it out a bit and it just got faster and faster and faster. Don't sell the stock motor too short - it's not so bad. I ended up going to a 12T bell for the Amain (the track was small/tight) and that was the key - like shooting fish in a barrel. Qualifed 3rd, muffed the Amain start and ended up 7 after lap 1, and won going away after 5 minutes. I like this truck . . .

[CRSMP5]

glad to hear of all the succes stories of yesterday with STOCK trucks..

where in pa is the track you speak of? im now looking for a new indoor track as the one north of me is not worth going too unless you like to be in cheater races.. was not bad till the combined th emt to the truggies where the main offender of cheating which is the rd's buddy, was let loose.. how many times can you pass the same truck thats never passed you.. yesterday a min of 3 times..

[andersun16]

glad to hear of all the succes stories of yesterday with STOCK trucks..

where in pa is the track you speak of? im now looking for a new indoor track as the one north of me is not worth going too unless you like to be in cheater races.. was not bad till the combined th emt to the truggies where the main offender of cheating which is the rd's buddy, was let loose.. how many times can you pass the same truck thats never passed you.. yesterday a min of 3 times..


http://www.bumpsandjumpsrc.com/

[CRSMP5]

too far for my blood.. thanks for the info though..

[Monsterbrad]

I can relate to that
I won all heats and the main Yesterday...
I like this truck a ton....
Buy one if you race they are AWESOME!!!!!!

[jmcn r]

hey CRS would you mind clueing some of us in on what you mean by cheating? i plan to get into weekend to weekend racing at two of the tracks here in south florida starting a tthe end of January. I would like to know what exactly somebody could be doing to cheat? where i am atleast there are not that many regulations beyond the norm, so i cant imagine what a person could do.
also, CRS i have to thank you, i have used articles and how to's you have posted all over the place on the Savage like an instruction manual :) . they have helped my return immensley.


as to the LSP, asides fro mthe few minor fixes (to be expected with anything) i am really liking what i am seeing. the success stories speak for themselves. :) great information. if i do end up with another MT for race purposes only i think this is overtaking the SUT in status for me :cool:

keep all the great info coming all of you.

[winning edge designs]

Well, my race weekend at the Maxys Challenge ended well, but was sketchy at first. I qualified 2nd after the tie breaker, which put me in a good spot on the grid. I was running the truck hard during warm up, after having not a single issue during qualifying, feeling like it was indestructible. I ended up short jumping the 40 foot back straight triple and breaking the front plate. My buddies started thrashing during the driver introduction and got me out on the track 1 and a half laps into the 30 minute main.....I ended up 2nd down by 1 lap to the eventual winner(and TQ). Note that he was running a converted Kyosho buggy with the not so monster truck like tires shown above. Which imo, are not a monster truck tire and a bit ridiculous that they are even allowed at all. I had a huge problem with vibration from the big ole' monster truck Bowties I ran and had to double the big jump the entire race, or may have won in spite of my early problems? We'll never know(the winner did drive awesome!)......This truck is awesome though!....I now have finally taken the time to double up the front plate, so it won't be any more trouble. I also have bolted the rear pin holder to the chassis, to help keep the box from tearing off the chassis in really hard wrecks.........Jim

[CRSMP5]

im glad everyone is doing great.. im still annoyed..

cheating..
this started int eh 1/8th scale buggies like 5 weeks ago.. hey lets jump the pipe, we will shave 5 sec off our lap times.. the person who started this trend then got a LST 3 weeks ago.. hmm qualify last due to not being able to keep your junk running.. hmmm

past weekend and 2 weekends ago (race i ran out of fuel)..
last place qualifier decided he is special, puts his truck in front of field.. when hmmm im supposed to be in front in #2 spot.. the little... is in the way.. up front there is a added bonus of not getting stuck in the 1st turn pileup.. one of the ways till 3 weeks ago i was lapping field.. no pile up big gap.. how many times can you pass a truck thats never passed you? i passed him 3 times at minimum where he never passed me once.. he was jumping the pipe once again.. it is the rd's buddy, ive pointed this pout numorous times to the rd and nothing has been done in 5 weeks.. im sick of it i left a nasty post for th erd to see on hi sthread that i publicised BIG TIME and have to admit there are others who have been screwed over and its one of th reasons why 30+ racers is down to maybe 15.. and with me stopping the numbers are going to drop along with my negative on th eissue posted so all can see with names posted will make it even less.. th enitro indoor season i just pretty much finished off due to this issue...

[Monsterbrad]

That sucks...
People need to come forward and tell the RD that this is why nobody is there..
I wish that we could get at least 3 or 4 guys to come forward and tell the RD that this is bull...
I like racing there it fairly close to my house and i am not willing to go much further this time of year.....
CR thats ****** that you are at the end of your string...
We need to take the RD aside and tell him again

[andersun16]

Being the passive-aggressive that I am, I wouldn't mess with telling the Race Director. I would do exactly what the cheater is doing. I would encourage everybody to do it. Everybody put your truck anywhere on the grid that you like. Everybody jump the pipe every lap. Then just sit back and see what happens - make the race director direct the race. Once everybody is doing it, a decision will have to be made. Mind you, this doesn't always work and more than likely you'll get called out on it, but it may make you feel better at the end of the day. Never forget, in the end we're all just grownups playing with toys in the dirt - so don't get violent over it.

BTW - I was considering removing the F/R bumpers off the LSP, but after this past weekend, I think I'll leave them. They really do help clear the track of slow/disabled trucks.

[CRSMP5]

mb we have taken him aside.. this is a 5 week old issue that has progressed to the mt class due to dick buying a lst.. there is no help.. he is the rd's buddy so im dont with it.. i was tot he point of stopping the truck, getting off the stand waitign for him on the straigth away and going head on into him at WOT to make a point.. but its better just to ruin the track for the rd by telling of the issue on the web.. its goign to bite him where it hurts most.. in the pocket.. it was his oppertunity for 5 weeks now to solve this issue.. he has ignored it, you saw how many were there sunday, thats not even half the people that were there 5 weeks ago.. of the people that were there, you, bruice, the other lightning, josh, were there cause of me... if it was not for my word of mouth on the track those people would not have been there... that would have made what, 7 racers for the day? not to mention of the 15-20 who were not there a good 5-10 are also people i know.. they have given up on the track and do not plan to go back as is..

[jmcn r]

thank you for your thorough explanation CRS. i understand what you were saying. i was just thinking along the lines that he netered a machine that wasnt legal in the class or something.

what you are talking about is a dirty driver that is in bed with a **** race director. hard position (no pun intended ;) ) (well maybe a little) :p . if you can encourage your entourage to wreck one race day as andersun mentioned i think that would be a brilliant idea. if the RD doesnt come back to you begging for forgiveness and offering free usage for a year for all of your promotion and business,....i would walk away and never return until it becomes beneficial for you to do so.

a few weeks ago i went to my local track for the first time just to check things out and see what it was like. i hope it isnt normally like what i saw because i just kind of stayed to the outside trying to to interfere with anything, but when i tried to ask a group of the racers while they werent busy about what it would take to race, they looked at me and turned their heads away and basically said without looking at me "go there a pay the dues (pointing to the RD). last week, i was in the the RD's LHS...i basically asked him if there were any specifics i would need for my Sav to be clear to race, such as no metallic bumpers or the like. i am hoping he was just busy because he had a similar attitude to the racers before.

i hope that was simply just a bad first impression, thats not like the welcoming RC crew that i see on various web boards. those guys i met were straight up turds. :rolleyes: well...thats just my experiences...no more off topicing for me :D

good luck to all of you with your track issues, and keep up the good work with the LSP's :)

[CRSMP5]

if they treated you like that i would go find a new track.. its better to suck up to a new person and get him going properly then to not help.. i spend alot of time helping others at the track.. just ask mb.. its supposed to be a good time.. fun and exhilarating.. when the race is tanted by a cheater thats the "best buddy" of the rd and nothign happens then it becomes no fun..

since my post on his thread ive had multi Pms on it and well i just wish they all would say in public what they are telling me in private so he can see how many this person has ruined his track with plans to never go back..

if you have savage questions.. www.savage-central.com ;) you will be able to find lots of info to make it more race worthy, but honestly the LSP is better, faster and cheaper to race..

[proraptor2625]

Hey guys....I got a package in the mail from Hot bodies like the day after I called that brandon guy. The cool part is they sent me 4 of the new CVD's! So somehow I got 2 free! Pretty awesome.

Ive also notice the "four stroking" stock engine...I leaned mine out and it seems to run awesome now. I havent checked the temp cause I cant find my temp gun but there is still blue smoke. Seems to be running really well now

[Monsterbrad]

I was impressed how well the truck went being all stock with a few minor changes...
Its so great driving such a track friendly truck...
The engine is not that great for power but it works for the little track that we are on in Jefferson....
Well if cr is not going to be there anymore I am planning to still go cause I feel that TIM needs to be taken out and I will take the LST out there to do that...
I left the last track I raced carpet Oval at because of cheating in the Spec Class...
LSP is an awesome truck!!!!!!

[CRSMP5]

rember what i said.. throw on the stock tires, i bet your lap times go down even more.. also the LSP is much more durable over the lst.. but yes im done out there.. just not worth it to me.. when i feel i cannot have a fair race its just not worth it.. and its 5 weeks of buildign to this point.. should read his reply on the thread i left one on.. he claims no one tells him of issues.. *** was the starting grid issue i spoke of before the race.. ohh btw, i guess he docked tim a lap for jumping pipes.. my thoughts.. when it happens remove offender from race.. he also spoke of the person in last place causeign you issues... he has no control at the track and it canot be solved.. its him.. other tracks would send ya home before they put up with it a 2nd time..

[winning edge designs]

Here is a cool mod told to me by Robert Reinhart of RDI Hobbies. Use two front suspension pin holders on the LSP, with the rear block drilled and tapped for set screws and two holes dwon towards the chassis plate. Drill matching holes in the lower chassis plate as well. This way you can use set screws to hold the hinge pins in(longer with two plates up front) and the rear block will also be anchored to the chassis, just about indestructible!...............ttyl, Jim

[CRSMP5]

yep.. but look at my mod on the 2 front ones installed for easeier idea, also drilling th eblock an dmounting to the chassis ive thought about this, BUT if th escrew was to get broke off its like 27-30$ for one if you canot get the broken screw out..

i like his idea of gettign a piece machined into a box like configuration (rear suspention holder type set up off a 2wd truck) for the front and rear holders so they all mount via the diff case screws.. ;)

[andersun16]

Just called up Hot Bodies - they are sending replacement Front outdrives - no questions asked - real nice. Usually they want a copy of the receipt and yada, yada, yada. I asked him about a way to stiffen up the chassis a bit as I still see some flex in the read (no biggie, but I worry over stupid things). He recommended the 7075 chassis upgrade - I told him to throw it in with the CVD's. They wanted $55.00 for it which seemed OK to me. I'll let you know when I get it - that'll give me a good excuse to pull the thing apart and loctite it all up.

Also, what are you guys talking about with these hinge pin blocks? I can't visualize it but if it's something that'll prevent breakage - I'm in.

[CRSMP5]

look back 1 page, th e1st photo is the block rboert drilled and pu tset screws in, then the one i have doubled up is the actual mod, problem is to stack 2 together the pin is too short for the e clip, if you look at how i did it, i reversed the pin, mushroom head on teh chassis side, reasons for this in the 1st place, 6 screws and sway bar disconnect = diff out, but i used 2 shims/washers and added the 2nd plate over the original one still same effect ad doubling thm up for strength.. look back to page 2-3 there is photo of why to do this as the brace does break on bad crashes.. a 2nd one allows you to rip the front end off instead of the brace breaking.. on the pro version at least, as thats what happened to roberts at one point..

[proraptor2625]

look back 1 page, th e1st photo is the block rboert drilled and pu tset screws in, then the one i have doubled up is the actual mod, problem is to stack 2 together the pin is too short for the e clip, if you look at how i did it, i reversed the pin, mushroom head on teh chassis side, reasons for this in the 1st place, 6 screws and sway bar disconnect = diff out, but i used 2 shims/washers and added the 2nd plate over the original one still same effect ad doubling thm up for strength.. look back to page 2-3 there is photo of why to do this as the brace does break on bad crashes.. a 2nd one allows you to rip the front end off instead of the brace breaking.. on the pro version at least, as thats what happened to roberts at one point..

This whole issue is exactly why I didnt want those aluminum arms.

BTW: Ill have pics of my rig up here pretty soon

[Chevy-SS]

Hey, there's a real easy solution to the cheating issue CRS. If, as you say, the cheater is shaving 5 full seconds off his lap time, then it would be obvious at the end when you looked at the race report. For instance, if average time for a great lap is 16.8 seconds and this guy posts a 11.9 second lap, then it's obvious that he took a shortcut somewhere. At that point, he's DQ. The numbers won't lie. It should be there in black and white for all to see.

[CRSMP5]

they only docked him 1 lap.. id have grabbed his truck and shut it off and removed him from teh race completly... even durign the qualifiers when he did it he shoudl have been removed for the day...

yes.. but 18$ worth of plastic arms is cheaper to buy then all the other stuff the pro version has.. like the aluminum mount from photo 1.. thats almost 30$ alone.. but still even with that said.. i still do not know what robert did, but for all the hard crashes mine has taken, ive only sheared off 1 bolt into the diff housing after weeks of racing...

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR
this sucks you are not planning to go back there!!!!!!!!
Well when you are not there i am planning on running the Komodos and when anybody says **** about it I am going to mention the jumping of the pipes by the blue LST......
Thats bull....
Lets see some pics of these mods guys
we have seen cr's let see some other pics

[xxxkat]

Just got a new motor for my LSP..does anyone know if any of the roto starts will fit a Peak .28 motor.. :confused:

[CRSMP5]

have not kept up with that engine to know.. sorry, i do know there are threads asking this in the engine section of savage central though..

[Monsterbrad]

The only thing about the stock engine is there is a little less power than I realy like and the cooling head looks like crap..
Other than that it seems to be pretty good for tuning and power just lacks a little top end also...
Great for bashing or a small track!!!!!!

[winning edge designs]

I just sold me Pro's engine on E bay for $99, of course I haven't gotten any contact back in two days since it supposedly sold.....hhhmmmmm....Jim

[Monsterbrad]

I am impressed that you got that much money for it...
Hope the deal goes through....
Mine is staying stock for a while maybe a visit to my dad's Machine shop to do some mods to the chassis if I get enough time...
I was also thinking about the thicker chassis that Hot bodies has out.....

[winning edge designs]

I was actually dissapointed, I mean, $99 for a brand new engine, with pipe and roto start, never even fired up.....I probably should have kept it as a back up engine......Oh well, still haven't heard from the buyer, or recieved payment......we'll see, Jim

[xxxkat]

Broke the rear susp. pin holder today.. :mad: Has anyone tried the 59 or 54 rear block?? I was the only MT to show up today so they put me in with the stadium trucks,Wow this truck is fast,the track is small to med. size but I did get the TQ and was leading the main when I got cliped going over the triple(by a backmarker)and broke the rear block.. :mad:

[CRSMP5]

the diffrent blocks are for different rear toe angles.. i suggest givign them a try as different ones change charterstics, i am running the smallest aka the least rear toe i can... be carefull though, it changes the stability of the truck.. the replacement bag of those items is only 5$ though and you get frotn and rear ones..

[Monsterbrad]

I hate to hear those stories about breaking such stupid little ****!!!!!!
Oh well thats what racing is for I guess....
Need to find some time to go to the Machine shop and put old skills to work on the new racer..

[loadleft]

How do you guys have your trucks setup for racing? I'm setup box stock except: O.S. V-Spec engine, Airtronics 200oz. servo, stock stering servo moved over to control throttle and brake. I race on an extremely tight course with a bunch of Revos whose turning radius seems to be two feet shorter than mine. There are alot of 180 degree turns (turnbacks;hairpincurves;u-turns;whatever you call them) and though I am much faster than the Revos and out handling them they are making serious time up on me in those turns. I am rolling through on about 1/3 throttle and still making hitting the outside edges of the turn and they just cut inside me. I know a good deal about race setup I've been doing this for 18 years but I was just curious to know what you all have found successful? Surface is loamy and the fast tire is T-Maxx Mulchers (Step-Pins) from Proline. I'm trying to decide if the truck is actually pushing or does it just have a large turning radius due to long wheelbase? My guess is I may have too much traction and that it's causing me to push however. That is the reason I tried to make it through on such a low throttle and to not be accelerating through the curve to get rid of the push but like i said this causes me to get caught so now I'm playing around with setups but the season is almost over and only had the truck for two weeks so I'm afraid I won't find the setup before seasons end.

[winning edge designs]

I like heavier rear shock oil, i'm running 45 front and 55 rear shocks. I also use rear brake bias to help swing the back around on small tracks under braking. This takes some skill and pracice to do right though. The 59mm rear toe block wil add on power rear traction and off power steering also. I'm working on a way to get more rear anti-squat since this also adds rear traction on power and steering off, but requires a different rear forward hinge pin block. I also run about 2 degrees of toe-out up front. One thing I'm also going to try, but haven't yet is grinding some material off the rear hubs to move them forward and adding the correct spacer to shim it snug again.......good luck, Jim

[CRSMP5]

swap the rear hubs from side to side.. they will shorten the wheel base.. :) your working too hard to shave things if ya take a look at them..

also if you want to move them even more.. look at the control arms, flipping them will change wheelbase also..

id say the front end has too little traction if the revos undercutting ya.. ive been able to undercut them.. with stock tires on clay the front tire foams would roll due to traction...

the ultimate short wheel base would be a version 2 chassis from the buggy, rear anti bend rod and rear cvd/dogbone as that will chop alot of length off...

[Monsterbrad]

I did notice when I changed the servo in my truck that the front steering blocks stop on the caster blocks...
This truck does have less steering than the LST and the Revo with the steering mod that I did to my revo...
All I can say is adjust the rear brakes to hit harder and learn how to swing the rear end around like I do...
It looks awesome and works great for tight tracks also.....

[winning edge designs]

Oh, cool, haven't had time to look at that yet, i'm sure it would have popped up during the modification time if I ever got time to do that, LOL.

So far I got the truck on the thursday before Maxys challenge and ran one tank of practice. That was my only run before qualifying and finishing second with it. After some more suspension tuning time and now that i've balanced my trimmed down bowties the next race should be interesting.......Jim

[CRSMP5]

ahhh dumb me.. thing i keep forgetting about, need to post the c hub mod... use your dremal, this was suggested by Robert of atomic, you do a curve into teh C hub to when the steering knuckle no longer hits it, why.. not for turning radius, but to prevent in a bad bad crash, the knuckle breaking the C hub..

[winning edge designs]

Just saw a video link to the monster truck main at Maxys on S grid...pretty cool, my truck is shown at the very beginning of the tape and the very end....good bookmarking, LOL.......Jim

[Chevy-SS]

deleted

[Chevy-SS]

.... I race on an extremely tight course with a bunch of Revos whose turning radius seems to be two feet shorter than mine. There are alot of 180 degree turns (turnbacks;hairpincurves;u-turns;whatever you call them) and though I am much faster than the Revos and out handling them they are making serious time up on me in those turns. I am rolling through on about 1/3 throttle and still making hitting the outside edges of the turn and they just cut inside me.......

Have you checked your steering? Are you getting maximum left to right throw? Is something in the linkage binding or hitting? Is the servo rotating enough? Maybe you need a longer servo arm? Diffs binding, maybe use lighter fluid?

As you say, a longer wheelbase vehicle will typically have larger turning radius than shorter wheelbase. I have raced on tracks like you describe and there is not enough run-up (for speed) to use rear brake bias to help slide rear around. Solution usually lies in making wheels turn more. Just my $.02

Hmmm, I did a 4-wheel steering conversion on my Monster GT. I wonder if it's possible with the LSP? :)

[proraptor2625]

Im runniing 50wt front and rear in the shocks. Thats pretty much all I have done so far and it seems to be running great...Tonight though Im going to install a Hitech servo for steering and also do the hub mod for more steering...Anyone have a nice servo arm that they prefer?

[xxxkat]

Why would you put a Hitec servo in such a nice truck.. :confused:

[CRSMP5]

cause its better then airtronics IMO but id only put a fast one in it.. the new ti one should do wonders in it... not the 250oz one (slow like 645) but the 180 one thats like .14sec..

[Keith-OH]

Hi, I am looking at getting my first gas truck soon. I think the Lightning stadium pro is the one I am giong to go with. I was also looking at the Revo and LST. But it is winter here and wont get used for months. Would you get it now or wait and see if they make any changes to it? I can get a good deal on it now $469.99 plus shipping and the special will be over after the new years. Also what do I need to order for it? My list is: fuel, after oil, battery and charger. The hobby shop told me to get the OS 8 glow plugs for it. is that correct? Any part I should order and upgrade ASAP?

Thanks,

Keith

[CRSMP5]

you in ohio? and yes the os8 plug is a good plug, and if you get it now... you will have it to jump snowbanks with.. a 5 cell hump fits nice, but also get the proper charge switch to go with it..

[CRSMP5]

whooa.. in oct i did a little www.rcdriver.com free mag thinggy aka get one mag free then pay for rest of subscription next month if ya like it, at the same time i submitted a few shop talk/fixes and tips on the LSP well pg 136 feb 2005 the double up draglink is featured, get free year subscription from it, funny part, i dropped the check in the mail today for the subscription when i went to the PO Box to grab up my mail.. LOL.. so 25 issues has now costed me 20$ and it is a great magazine..

[Monsterbrad]

Hey CR
I am rebuilding the mach 26 for the LSP.
Can somebody post some pics of there mods?
I am looking into changing the arm mounts so that its a little stronger..

[CRSMP5]

which arm mounts you looking to change? and all but the c hub mod is photoed of my mods.. the rear arm, the above post of breaking that one is a 1st that i know of, id suspect a defective air bubble in the molding process though on that, it happens...

[xxxkat]

Where are you getting the LSP for $469.. :confused: Clue me in on that one,I saw how much my LHS pays for them and it was more than that. :D

[Keith-OH]

Tower hobbies has them for $519.99. And for each $100 you spend you get another $10 off.

CRSMP5: Yes I live in Ohio. I am about 1 hour N of dayton and about 1 1/2 hours west of columbus. Is this the kind of charger to get in the link at the bottom of the page? That hump back is to control the servos right? Then what is the 7.2 flat pack for? I have alot to learn!!!!!!! If you dont mind mabey you can Private Message me you phone number. I would like to talk to you about this truck.



http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=7

Thanks,

Keith

[Keith-OH]

OK, here is my list of stuff I am getting for my first gas vehicle. Let me know what to change or add to my list.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LL3432&P=K
lightning stadium pro

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXD535&P=K
1-DuraTrax O'Donnell 20% Racing Fuel Quart

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=7
DuraTrax Piranha AC/DC Digital Peak Charger NiCd/NiMH

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEMG5&P=ML
DuraTrax FlashPoint Infrared Temperature Gauge

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAFD2&P=K
DuraTrax Shark 6-Cell 1500mAh Sport Standard

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXL391&P=K
Hobbico After Run Engine Oil 2 oz.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCB27&P=ML
O.S. #8 Glow Plug Standard Long Medium Hot

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKM2&P=7
Trinity Receiver NiMH Pack Hump 5 Cell 800mAh AAA
I am at $642.57 - $60 for spending over $600 at TH plus $8 shipping. = $590.57 How does everything look?

[xxxkat]

CRSMP5..On the servos..better than Airtronics,Not in my world,Hitec's have a centering problem(thats IMO)allways have,I would rather have a 94359(200oz at .10)than any hitec made,But thats just an opinion..one thats shared by most racers I know.

[CRSMP5]

well then i hope you plan to use the dayton X dome... nitro indoor track.. i got a link to it somewhere..

the stick pack is for the rotostart system.. forgot about that... :)

befor buying a quart of fuel, go see what the LHS has for fuel and stick to what they carry.. i do not beleive in mail order fuel as quarts cost half as much as a gal of fuel, and to ship a gal of fuel is bad on pocket.. the x dome, id see what they are runing and where they are getting fuel and supplies.. also a better batt then on eyou linked is
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=7

you will need a futaba charge harness switch for the 5 cell hump pack.. else the plug will be wrong...

[Duster_360]

Keith-OH - thats a good charger, I've been using that one for almost 2 years with no probs. Its real flexible and will charge anything you can get hooked up. I use it for my rx pacs (go with the one CRSMP5 linked - have 2 and they are solid performers, 800mah is too small), my stick pacs, my AA and AAA camera batteries and starter box gel cell. If you get into electrics, you'll need to add a DC power supply, but thats an if and when.

[Keith-OH]

Thanks for all the the help guys. I am going to the local shop this weekend to take a look at the lightning to make sure it is what i want. 1 hour drive each way. And pick up gas while I am there. CRSMP5: I check out the X Dome last weekend ( awesome place).