1/8 scale electric- Part II [Archive]

Rotary Rocket

11-24-2004, 09:31 PM

All,

The other thread was getting too long, and hard to find good info (just too many pages to go thru...).

My questions is what center diff set up are you using for your conversion?

From what I can tell there are three feasable solutions:

1. Buy "hardened" pinions, and use existing center diff.
2. Use OFNA Ultra center diff (you can change out the spur to a derlin/plastic)
3. Use OFNA Dominator slipper (and change spur to derlin/plastic)

Let us know what you think?

Craps

11-24-2004, 11:13 PM

Plus the oringinal author sold his 1/8th scale!

sugs

11-25-2004, 01:09 AM

My GS Storm has a bolt on spur for the center diff so I figured I'd replace it with a Mod 1 kimbrough gear. Don't know yet if I can find one that will work.

NIC

11-25-2004, 03:57 AM

The "ready-set" version of the Kyosho MP 7,5 sports has a stock plastic spur for the centerdiff and it´s a direct replacement to the original hardened steel one that sits on the Kanai 2, 3 and MP777. It´s about twise as wide as the stell one. I use the plastic one on my Kanai 2 and it works perfect. It doesn´t stress the piniongear at all and it´s alot quieter and lighter for better performance, and it seems to hold up really well. But for a serious race, when you don´t want to risk stripping a gear, the steel spur/pinion combination is safer.
The change to a plastic may cut the costs a little bit, as you might get away with a cheeper piniongear.

NIC

studysession

11-25-2004, 11:28 AM

It think it was better to just keep original thread. A lot of good info.

Well - I am undecided on what motor I will use on my Hyper 7 conversion. I am considering trying one of the Fiedo motors. Want to hear from people who actually tried one and what they think. I will get some other motors to try as well but the Fiego is so cheaply priced, it seems hard to go wrong.

But when you try and sell the motor later - it is not a very well known name brand. Most people will probably pass up buying one used. If I do not like or later get a better one, I would put it on EBay or something like that.

For an ESC I have the Warrior 9918 coming. Will get the cable and software so I can easily reprogram the ESc from the PC like I do with my Castle Creations ESC.

Rotary Rocket

11-25-2004, 12:12 PM

How does a center diff compare to center slipper, specially during braking?

Nitro buggies use mechanical brakes, so the center diff does not effect the braking.

I would think the center diff would have an adverse effect on braking.

Craps, you tried a center slipper, how did that work instead of a center diff?

Craps

11-25-2004, 05:51 PM

The Dominator slipper is a weak piece of crap!

The center diff on the Mugen kept blowing out the fluid and needed constant maintence to work at it's best, but the gas racers maintain they're diffs every race. I didn't want to keep doing that with the huge amount of power my system had.

If had to pick the better of the two, go with the stock center diff and spur gear, buy a quality made pinion gear from Jamie at starluckrc. Hacker C50 on 22.2 volts will make the fastest 1/8th scale anywhere.

Good Luck!

Combatcm

11-25-2004, 10:32 PM

Finally, I decided to get some photos. I have run into a few problems to get this far.

Setup completed I ran the buggy a few times with BEC on. The buggy cogged pretty bad, really bad, but since I have nothing to base it on I don't really know how I should describe it. A few runs later, I decided to get a use from a reciever battery still packaged laying around for a year. I ran a run or two normal, then after the cycled batteries were done I threw them in. I took out the BEC black jumper off to use the receiver pack. A minute into the run and the car just died. Nothing, not even the steering servo. I took the receiver off and put the receiver pack in and a servo to test it and nothing. Which was very wierd. I tested it out with another receiver and nothing again. I had no idea what it was. I then put the jumper back in and plugged the receiver pack in. I reprogrammed it and it started working again. I hope its not bad to use both, but I finished off the maxx paxx with it setup that way, it had to have run more than 4 minutes not including the previous minute. I used my other packs and its still fine, no official time yet. It still cogs starting under 1/4 throttle, but smoothly runs at a slow walking pace. Motor got warm, ESC got warmer, and the batteries get pretty hot. Nothing horrible though.

But anyway, the car rips. The 9L is almost too much. I would not reccomend anything under the 9 for buggy purposes if bashing also includes racing. If you bash, I don't care if you go for the 7, but you might not like the runtimes. I'll get some official times tomarrow if nothing more goes wrong.

Combatcm

11-25-2004, 10:41 PM

I really need to get the mounting correct. It's still in the "prototype" stage. Zip ties and hockey tape secure everything. The battery cups are great. No clips or anything. You put the battery in and squeeze the posts together and latch the hole over the screw and then when you let it go it secures itself. Not sure if that's the right way to do it.

I have no other experiance with brushless besides a mamba and a novak, but this motor seems great for the price, as opposed to paying 170 for another motor than you will not even know the performance gain. I think its all in the ESC anyway.

studysession

11-26-2004, 11:08 AM

Nice pics and thanks for the update. How does it handle with the motor in that position? I am thinking of doing the same.

Combatcm

11-26-2004, 12:22 PM

I really have nothing to base it on. I can't feel anything wacky when I am driving though. I just pulled 4 minutes out of my maxx paxx. That was when they lost most punch. But I could have pulled maybe a minute until they were dead. Remember, 2 packs in a series will drain them singly, not as a whole. If you run until they are dead, a pack might drain more than the other and make the voltage drop significantly. The batteries get burning hot. I couldn't imagine doing it for twice as long to GP's. They were too hot to hold and you could smell them burning. I may have to get packs in paralell to get 10 minutes. I'd say that's pretty normal. I should have sprung for the 10L though. When you buy brushless motor, you have nothing to base it on. I just figured I didn't want the slowest but I wanted good runtime.

OpIvy

11-26-2004, 12:58 PM

since everyone is posting in this thread now, here's the link to the old thread for when it gets buried deep down in the threads. just so you know where to find it when you need info.
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=161348
-Nick

glassdoctor

11-26-2004, 01:45 PM

The 9L is a little to "hot" for the setup. A lower rpm wind would be better...

But the battery heat has a lot to do with the quality of the battery. GP3300 cells can dump a much higher current than the generic stick packs, so they will not get nearly as hot as cheap cells.

Gearing will help too... gear down as low as possible.

studysession

11-26-2004, 03:50 PM

Even with the 9L I would expect better run times than that. 4 minutes is not long enough to make it worth doing.

studysession

11-26-2004, 03:55 PM

Combatcm
Would you post a pic showing close ups on how you mounted the battery trays to the chassis? Like top view and bottom view of the buggy showing how the screws attach.
Thanks!

Rotary Rocket

11-27-2004, 12:36 AM

The Dominator slipper is a weak piece of crap! ...
If had to pick the better of the two, go with the stock center diff and spur gear, buy a quality made pinion gear from Jamie at starluckrc.
So Jaime, what size "hardened steel" mod 1 pinions do you have?

I think I will use the Pletty Maxximum motor for my try at the 1/8 buggy conversion.

If I use 4S4P 8000 mAh Thunder Power packs (2 x 2S4P), what pinion do you recomend to use with 51 tooth spur?

Combatcm

11-27-2004, 01:46 AM

Alright, I have to go to sleep now for work. I will try to post pictures in less than 24 hours. I drove my buggy all out today. I GPS'd it at 35mph for 12 cells. I have another wierd thing wrong. I charged 5 packs. I ran doubles 2 runs and then figured why not try the single pack. Wow, 1 pack is pretty amazing, nearly the same top speed. I know you may be thinking my packs were in parallel, but I am sure they aren't. I need to do some more testing. I may even run a single pack for racing.

Someone try it with one pack.

We really need to pick a thread. Both are exploding right now.

To attach the cups to the chassis, I used two screws on each of the 4 halves. I drilled a hole through the chassis to pass into a prethreaded hole in the cup. Then I bolted with a nut through an existing hole for the rock guard using 4-40 thin nuts. I will try to get some pictures later.

Starluck's got 15 and 16T hardened pinions.

studysession

11-27-2004, 03:40 AM

Cool - thanks!

studysession

11-27-2004, 09:57 AM

OK -

I have an idea that I am going to try. I went to scrap yard today and picked up some round stocks of stainless steel for very cheap price. So I am using it for prototyping a diff for my buggy.

I am making something that will give same feel like solid drive shaft up the middle of the buggy - so it won't turn like normal diff. I am going to connect regular 48p spur gear on it when I am finished. If it works out then I will order some strong aluminum and remake it out of that.

Stainless steel is very heavy and sometimes will rust.

What does everyone think? Nice option to use 48p gears?

Combatcm

11-27-2004, 06:52 PM

48P would be a not good idea. In a bigger buggy you need higher tolerances. The pinion and spur will pull apart in a 1/8.

studysession

11-28-2004, 06:25 AM

Well - once it is finished - I will let you know how it holds up. For how cheap the materials were, it is worth a go.

studysession

11-28-2004, 01:12 PM

I was machining the new diff setup for using 48p gears and something happened. The bit caught the edge of the aluminum on the piece I was working with and destroyed it. So need to start over again.

I have come up with 2 different designs, but I am having a problem with both. How to make drive cups and properly attach them to the front and rear of the diff without the coming apart. That is a bit challenging for me to figure out.

Mr. Constructor

11-28-2004, 05:41 PM

try to post a pic or 2 it will help us to understand what you are meaning, maybe there is a help !!

(anyway, i tried 48 dp in a very eraly stage of my 5th f1 racer and it doesn´t hold the power (the car was only 6 kg ready) even if the gears where taken double the time, the scuare mm where the pinion connects to the main gear is way to small to get these high power loads transferred, you could go with 32 dp, this will hold a while, maybe better when doubling the maingear.

easiest and best way is to use mod 1 for your car (my 5ths now ran all with these and same with my 8ths, they hold up well in 8th, little less in 5th, but they last long when used and geared right !!

studysession

11-28-2004, 06:21 PM

As for making a proper drive cup - I will post pics once I get that far. Right now the piece I was working on all day, I ruined when some how my cutting tool caught the edge all wrong and wripped through the aluminum I was using like no tomorrow. So I need to redo the piece I was making.

When I am done, this will work for many different gear types. Right now I really want to make my own custom setup. However I am ordering a Mod-1 pitch gear from startluck soon with a Fiego motor.

If I can make this and have it come out correct, it is something i can apply to my speed car project. not exact same piece, But the know how. I have some ideas and designs that I want to be able to use on my speed car, but I am having trouble with applying them. So some of what I have drawn on paper I am using on this. Once I get a roughed out proto-type I will post pics. Problem though is attaching the drive cups.

Another problem is the stainless steel was to hard for my cutters. I can get stainless all day for super cheap. So makes it practical to use when just testing new things - if it does not work, throw it away because it cost way less. But now I need stronger cutters. The ones I have are good for softer metals, not really hard metals. Seems like it is always something.

Mr. Constructor

11-28-2004, 06:31 PM

yep, i know that too, try TiAIN cutters they´re heck costly but very good in all conditions, only a few materials where better !!
(and these are really unpayable !!)

describe wich problem you exactly have, maybe i could help ya out !!
(most exactly you could, that´s why i asked for pics, it´s easier to tell !!)

good luck by the way !!

studysession

11-28-2004, 06:40 PM

Double post - not sure how that happened.

studysession

11-28-2004, 06:40 PM

Will try and draw something and post it later this week.

The part where the drive shafts inster onto on the front and rear of the diff. I am calling that part the drive cups. The piece I am making as the center diff is one complete item. Put the spur gear and bearings on, then need to attach the drive cups. Not sure how I am going to do this. I have a few ideas, but not drawn on the computer, I have a notebook I carry around and draw my ideas there.

I was so ticked off when the tools caught the edge wrong. The piece of aluminum came right off from where it was being held on from the lathe. Took some really big chunks out of it, so have to start from scratch.

Where can I get some stronger cutters from? Have any links? Right now using carbide cutters. Good for soft stuff. Aluminum, mild steel - stainless is much harder though. But at 80p a kilo. That is cheap price, and I can get it easily from the scrap yard. The softer aluminum does not cost much, but they are always out. Everyone always gets it first.

studysession

11-28-2004, 06:46 PM

studysession

11-28-2004, 07:09 PM

Combatcm

11-29-2004, 06:16 PM

I just tried the setup with my GP pack. It ran around 30mph (unofficial), exactly 6 minutes of full time weaving around yard. The motor temped at 105, ESC, 110 and the battery hit 115. Still spin the tires everytime I hit the throttle

I just wanted to tell people that running one 6 cell pack works really great. It's also pretty amazing that a car weighing 2 lbs more than a stadium truck can drive almost as fast and almost as long, or at least way longer and faster than anyone expected. I think I may race with a GP hump pack or a double hump 8 cell pack.

studysession

11-29-2004, 06:43 PM

What cells were you using before and is this still with the 9L? Do you have 2 6 cell GP packs to see how it runs with 12 cells?

Cold Fusion

11-30-2004, 01:51 AM

What about ditching the whole idea of gears/center diffs and using a timing belt setup? A 50t pulley spur could be bolted onto an 8mm aluminum or steel shaft with output cups on the end and hooked right up to the motor. Here is a cad.

glassdoctor

11-30-2004, 03:23 AM

Craps

11-30-2004, 08:30 AM

Solid spool center drive, or diff?

I don't care how the power gets transferred... AS LONG AS it works well. Has to be as reliable and efficient as gears, IMO. I know it would solve some issues with gears, but it has it's own different ones. I think a belt drive would be cool, and sound cool, for what that's worth.

You know what i would like to see addressed, is a really nice motor mount setup. One type of mount I would like to work on is a saddle type clamp mount that locks the motor down to the chassis. it's similar to the way a nitro in mounted, really.

Question: has anyone had a problem with running a plastic center gear? I don't remember anyone saying they tried it and it shredded or anything...

I locked up the center diff with epoxy and that was one ugly driving buggy and in other words it was huge mistake.

The plastic gear will probably work just as long as the pinion gear is always the harder material. I shreaded pinions like candy until I had some made out of tooled steel and hardened to make them harder material than the hardened steel spur gear. Jamie with www.starluckrc.com still has some from the second batch I had made.

If you guys are going to use a C50 10XL motor and 22.2 volts of battery, please find metal diff housings. I had so much torque it blowed the fluid out of the center diff in no time.

CF
If you are making center diff towers, incorporate the motor mount into the tower as one piece.

Good luck with your 1/8th scales, I am working on an almost 1/4 scale (40" long) for the World Record Speed Run Contest with 30 plus hp! They are all running for 2nd which is the 1st loser! :D

Craps

11-30-2004, 08:34 AM

Craps

11-30-2004, 08:38 AM

Mr. Constructor

11-30-2004, 10:56 AM

the nylon gears i used in even my 5th cars (mod 1, 10mm thick !!)
are not shredded, they do hold it very much better, because the pinion is steel (normal, not hardened ) and the main gear is nylon (or better, more technican: pa 6.6 maybe with gfk 20 or 30 %) this is nown under nylon or delrin as manufacturers names, they do some flexing, wich saves the entire gearmesh
!!

the belt thing has one very bad taste: the belt could transfer up to 900 w peak (the ones i used are 9mm wide, variable lenght and do have mod 1 gearing, they do skip a lot if not twisted down with several roller adjusters, this makes extra force and the belt system isn´t that usable, because the belt has to have mostly ALL the time a defined minimum tension, wich is hard as the chassis has to be extra brutal stiff not allowing the motor move anything under heavy breaking ( the g forces are way high, i will try to get a g force meter soon then i might backup some figures

studysession

11-30-2004, 12:47 PM

What nylon gears are you using and where do you get them?

Mr. Constructor

11-30-2004, 04:32 PM

i used these partially, as i do have found several other manufacturers in germany but these are hard to reach, try out www.conrad.com and then search for the number: 237388 this will lead to a 50 tooth mod 1 main gear with a width of 10mm !!
the same one i used in my 5th car or some others, very good stuff ande cheap too, but might require some afterwork before using it !!

good luck !!

(maybe a good time for this: i will bring those parts and many others in my website, should be ok till march 2005 !!
(a selection of the most usable parts for a conversion in any size !!))
sorry for the late time, but i am planning on a very much bigger thing and will not have the time further to update anything !!

Mr. Constructor

11-30-2004, 04:34 PM

sorry, try www.conrad.de, the part will be shown there with full details, the international page will not show it directly !!

studysession

11-30-2004, 04:42 PM

Cool, thanks.
CF - I like the belt drive idea but think it will take up to much room. How hard is it to make the cogs?

studysession

11-30-2004, 04:47 PM

BTW -

The Warrior 9918 showed up today and I forgot I ordered a Mod-1 pinion with it. I was very disappointed that documentation did not come with the ESC. Is this normal? Every ESC I have ever ordered always came with some kind of documentation with it.

Combatcm

12-01-2004, 12:13 AM

I got my ESC from RC monster. Mine came with a poorly translated 1 page front and back paper with instructions. BUT...RC monster I think is the main distributor of BK/lehner products.

Cold Fusion

12-01-2004, 12:15 AM

I got my Warrior direct from BK, but also with poor instructions.

studysession

12-01-2004, 06:27 AM

Well when I recieved it I osted here and I also sent an email to BK asking for instructions.

Mike from RC Monster saw my post here and he emailed me a copy of the english manul and so did a lady from BK. So I am in business far as that goes. I am going to order the cable for programming the ESC from the PC in a couple of weeks.

Not going to be able to run it until the weekend.

Combatcm

12-01-2004, 10:58 AM

What can you program on the ESC?

starluckrc

12-01-2004, 12:30 PM

BK has no US distributor any more after the Rumrunner deal went sour. They do not include instructions. I posted them in another forum and will have them up on my webpage soon.

studysession

12-01-2004, 12:48 PM

Starluck that will be great if you put them on your website. I know I would appreciate that. I will solder the connectors on this weekend if I have time and then have it running by next week.

Right now I am trying to catch up with a class project first. I missed a couple of classes and trying to machine some of the items at home that I was supposed to do in class. Once I am caught up on that then I will be able to run the new ESC. Thanks for the good service on the products and the quick delivery shipping it to the UK. WOW it only took 1 week to get here. That was quick!

Good stuff! I also bought a Mod-1 hardened steel pinion from Starluck a 16t. I am thinking of also getting the 15t and a 10L motor from him next. If I do I will put it all in my Hyper 7 and let everyone know how I like it. I now need to figure out how I will mount the batteries. I will be running on 12 cells.

studysession

12-01-2004, 01:25 PM

Jamie - Just as an FYI to everyone else too. BMI, Brushless Motor Inc http://www.brushless-motor.com is who Jamie is referencing who carried the BK Electronic controllers and Lehner motors. They are one of my sponsors. I am a sponsored driver and I also test brushless products for a few different companies and BMI is one of those companies that sponors my car and I also get to test their new products.

I just got a word from BMI allowing me to comment and let everyone know that they are currently developing their own line of ESC's to compliment their Chili Pepper motors. I am not 100% sure on what the name of the ESC will be. I have been running their car ESC for a while now. It is a really nice product and will be getting a motor to go a long with it soon. So be on a look out for BMI new car ESC's. After running the ESC for a few months myself, I have come to like it a lot. I will be getting 2 of their 50-S motors real soon for testing. Will put one in my Hyper 7 and one in my TC3. Will let everyone know how I like them in another thread once I get the motors. As for it working with the Hyper 7, I will post right here.

I am glad to now have a BK ESC to compare it to. The Schulze 18.61, I had blew up to easily. It thermaled to quick as well. Could never run tall gear ratio's with it. So far the BMI and the MTroniks ESC's have been my favorate 2 1/10 scale ESC's yet.

Cold Fusion

12-01-2004, 04:35 PM

Here is a center diff mount/motor mount that I just milled for TeamTeor. .375" with the motor area milled to .1875. Sorry for the bad quality picture, but it's the best I had time for.

studysession

12-01-2004, 04:37 PM

Looks good. What RC is it for?

Craps

12-01-2004, 04:40 PM

I am thinking about putting my big Hacker motors B50 12XL and C50 10XL on E-Bay. I also might be putting my Schulze 40.160 ESC on there too. There may also be two motor mounts for a Mugen and the big Hacker motors.

My World Record Speed Project has bigger custom made motors and controllers, so I have to get rid of the little stuff! LOL!

Cold Fusion

12-01-2004, 05:11 PM

It works with any Ofna buggies, but was mainly designed for the MBX series.

How much do you want for the 40.160?

studysession

12-01-2004, 05:14 PM

Where are the screw holes to connect to the buggy???

Craps

12-01-2004, 05:52 PM

It works with any Ofna buggies, but was mainly designed for the MBX series.

How much do you want for the 40.160?

Just to get rid of the stuff quick, I will take 50% of what Fine sells a new one for on his web site for any of the motors or ESC. The ESC does not have the splash proof cover on it. I cut it off to make mounting it easier.

Cold Fusion

12-01-2004, 06:15 PM

They were not drilled at the time of the photo.

So you want to sell quickly? I was interested in getting one in a couple months, so you better just sell it to someone else.

OpIvy

12-01-2004, 06:27 PM

ygm tim.
-Nick

Cold Fusion

12-01-2004, 06:39 PM

No Nick, I will not be loaning you $300 so you can buy Tim's speedo.

studysession

12-01-2004, 06:42 PM

You guys are to funny -

OpIvy

12-01-2004, 06:48 PM

well break my heart andrew :(
-Nick

Rotary Rocket

12-01-2004, 08:52 PM

Craps,

I am interested in your controller and one of the motors.

Can you email me at LB9731@sbc.com with some details as to their specs.

Thanks.

starluckrc

12-01-2004, 11:22 PM

studysession,

Donnie showed me one of their plane contollers at SEFF last June. We discussed cars a bit. I'm sure I will be seeing him again in April and get to toss around some more ideas.

OpIvy

12-02-2004, 03:33 PM

Craps, please email me, we have to talk. I got the money thing sorted out.. perhaps email me your phone # so we can chat :)
-Nick

*ah, sorry tim, I didn't get the message till just now.. I replied using my OTHER email that I actually check :rolleyes: Let me know what's up.
/me crosses fingers..
-Nick

Craps

12-02-2004, 04:09 PM

Everybody trying to reach me!
For a faster response about the motors and ESC, please use crapsrc@netzero.com

Thank you!
Tim aka Craps

studysession

12-02-2004, 04:35 PM

Jamie - when you see him make sure you talk ask him about the car controllers. I ran mine very hard on 10 cells with no problems. Any gearing I threw at it, it just went. My Schulze 18.61 I had kept thermaling on same gearing.

studysession

12-02-2004, 05:34 PM

I saw these on a 1/8 scale truck that was converted to electric on another thread. If I were to make battery trays like this out of aluminum, how tall should the edges be? If it matters I am using 6 cell stick packs - My cells are not soldered side by side.

http://losibk2.com/forum/files/dsc00015.jpg

glassdoctor

12-02-2004, 11:15 PM

I don't think that link was the pic you wanted.. but I think you are referring to the LST. He used the battery trays cut out of a stock Emaxx chassis. The sides don't need to be very high, maybe 8-10mm. The Emaxx trays are @10mm I would guess... without actually going to check my emaxx. :) Stick packs would be better with maybe 10-12mm.

I'm trying to think in metric for you.. It's hard for an American to do that ;)

Craps

12-03-2004, 06:33 AM

You can make a plastic battery case out of plastic ceiling grid wall track that can be bought at the building supply real cheap. Just cut 2 pieces the length of the battery pack, wrap around pack interlocking over themselves and I wrapped mine with duct tape to hold together. I did this around the li-pos in the 1/8th scale to hold them down and damage them.

studysession

12-03-2004, 01:35 PM

Glassdoctor - It is correct pic. And someone in another thread posted saying it was cut from an EMaxx chassis. I am going to make some from some aluminum. I was think 6 - 8mm on the inside wall of the tray should be tall enough making the outside of the wall 8 - 10mm tall.

I think that would work great for my buggy conversion. I also ordered a 10L motor from jamie this morning.

Rotary Rocket

12-07-2004, 01:00 AM

Has anyone ever converted a Kyosho Kanai 2 into brushless?

I just traded some LiPo packs with a guy in New Zealand for a Kanai 2 roller.

Mr. Constructor

12-07-2004, 02:10 AM

yes, but "only" with a lrk motor design, but it is mostly the same than any other 8th car, not really that big thing, but there are a few more things to look at as a few things need more self made parts !!

there are easier to convert cars out there !!

NIC

12-07-2004, 02:51 AM

The good thing with the Kanai buggy is that you can switch out the stock steel spur with the plastic spur from the MP 7,5 sports RTR. It´s a direct replacement. It seems like it´s the problempart with all the conversions so far.

NIC

studysession

12-09-2004, 06:15 PM

I am getting very frustrated. I mounted one of my twister brushless motors on my buggy and no matter what I do, just can not post any pictures here. I go to the manage attachments thing and go and try and upload. It just sits there and never finishes uploading the picture. :(

kufman

12-09-2004, 06:27 PM

Is your picture smaller than 75kB?

studysession

12-09-2004, 06:28 PM

25kb & 31kb

Cold Fusion

12-09-2004, 09:15 PM

Email them to me, I'll host...

OpIvy

12-10-2004, 07:38 AM

ANY MODERATORS>>> if your reading this, I'd really REALLY apreciate it if you could unban my old name, and unban my url on these boards. I didn't do anything against the rules, I still have no idea why I was banned, but I know it makes it a real hassle for me. All I try to do is help people when they need help. Like I'd like to make it easy for me to show everyone Studysessions pictures of his buggy.. but I can't post the direct url.. at least contact me and let me know why I was banned.
-D.u.a.l.B.L.

For everyone else.. here's pics of Keith's buggy.
http://8ths.dualbl.com/studysession.html
-Nick

studysession

12-10-2004, 08:11 AM

Thanks for hosting the pictures Nick -

You will notice that i have mounted some bright pink brushless motors on the buggy -
http://www.performancerc.net/dualbl/8ths/studysession/Dsc08563-500.jpg
http://www.performancerc.net/dualbl/8ths/studysession/Dsc08553-500.jpg
http://www.performancerc.net/dualbl/8ths/studysession/Dsc08562-500.jpg

These are motors from Twister Brushless.
For those who have not seen them before:
http://www.twisterbrushless.com/

I now need to come up with away for some really tall gearing. The twister brushless motors have some serious horse power but they are a very low kv. They are plane motors. I want to give them a try so I borrowed 2 of them from a friend. I have the .60 and the .90. The .60 has a 5mm shaft and the .90 has a 6mm shaft.

Thanks again -

studysession

12-14-2004, 07:54 PM

I soldered the connectors on my ESC earlier and burnt the crap out of my hand. Picked up solder iron and it slipped and 2 fingers on left hand rubbed down the side of the heated part. It hurts!

Hopefully the Feigao motor will show up sometime soon to give this a try.

microrcdude

12-14-2004, 11:09 PM

Studysession, does Jack(Performance RC) Host your site?

OpIvy

12-14-2004, 11:12 PM

microdude, no, Jack hosts the 1/8 part of my site.. notice it's performancerc.net/DUALBL/ :)
-Nick

glassdoctor

12-15-2004, 12:01 AM

Yeah, solder iron burns hurt pretty bad at first. But the next day it's all good. I picked up my iron a few weeks ago, thinking it was off, and burned my pinky finger which was on the barrel. i think it messed up my finger prints though so the cops can't get me now. :)

I put it on ice for 2-3 hours... it didn't hurt as long as ice was on it. But man did it hurt when the ice was gone! The next morning it didn't really hurt at all. Just a tough blister calous. sp?

That's the worst solder burn I've ever had... about 1/2" blister...

As for your buggy, can you replace the shaft on those Twisters? If so, you should try one "direct drive" in place of the center diff, with a long motor shaft so you can attach CVDs on both ends of the motor. Of course, you will need one CVD shortened because the motor is longer than a center diff.

Rotary Rocket

12-15-2004, 12:44 AM

To Moderators,

I would like to voice my support for OpIvy (AKA D U A L B L), his site and the fact that he has everyone's BL converted 1/8th buggy (with pictures) in one location is very useful and very informative to this community.

As you can see the "1/8 electric buggy" thread is one of the most visited and active threads on this board. It stands to reason to not block what I would consider a benificial aspect to this forum from its members.

Just my 2 cents.

studysession

12-15-2004, 04:56 AM

No it is not worht trying to do the shaft thing. I have thought about it,but not worth the effort. I have redesigned the center diff to allow very low gear ratios to allow the big outrunners to be used.

The big out runners are nice, but do not have a high enough kv rating. Right now those twister motors are borrowed to see if I can make the work. I have to eventually give them back.

OpIvy

12-15-2004, 02:50 PM

thnx for the love Larry <3

I'm not asking to be unbanned, so I can use my old name (altho, that would be nice). But a simple answer to why I was banned in the first place isn't to much to ask IMHO.
-Nick

studysession

12-15-2004, 02:54 PM

Yeah - it is nice that you host everyone pics on your site Nick - thanks! I have a site but keep emailing my buggy conversion stuff to you because having everyones stuff all in one place is really cool. It is very nice of you to do it.

I have some pics with the new body I will be emailing you after dinner. I put a truck bosy on my Hyper 7 and think it looks great. The buggy wheels would be in proportion of the body.

.

studysession

12-16-2004, 10:16 AM

I have the ESC programmed and ready for the motor. Now just wish the 10L motor would arrive in the mail. Hopefully it shows up today.

On Moday I am going to take couple of aluminum plates to chop in the guillotine. Will size them down to make something to strap some batteries to for the buggy. Will use velcro straps to hold the batteries on with. Will use existing screw holes in the chassis of the Hyper 7 buggy to attach the aluminum plates to.

Will post pictures when it is done. Once I have the motor and the plates, that is it. I a hardened Mod-1 16t pinion from Starluck and will use it with stock diff to see how it performs before chaging out center diff.

Cheers.

studysession

12-16-2004, 03:04 PM

Frustration -
I received in the mail today the OFNA diff that allows you to replace the spur gear with a plastic one. Problem is it does not fit onto a Hyper 7 buggy without modification. I was hoping to go ahead and switch to a plastic spur gear.

I think making a custom diff that allows 48p gears is a better idea. I also decided the aluminum I made my motor mount out of was to soft. Need to get me some better stuff.

Also because the diff's and diff mounts are so different - The motor mount you make for a Hyper 7 will not line up correctly on other 1/8 scale buggies. Now that I have the diff from the OFNA LX Pro - I can make a motor mount to fit it.

Hopefully the Mod-1 pitch pinion will work with very little to no wear on the metal spur gear on the stock H7 buggy - now just need the Feigao motor to arrive so I can find out. ;)

tcolesen

12-16-2004, 08:55 PM

48p pinions wouldn't be that great of an idea, IMO. What type of aluminum was it? I certainly hope that it was 6061-t6.

studysession

12-17-2004, 04:35 AM

Funny -

As for the aluminum - I prototype things out of softer cheaper stuff. Then make final stuff out of 6061 or 7075. So now need to remake it out of hard/thicker stuff. First I just CNC'ed out of cheaper stuff to make sure it fits and works.

OpIvy

12-17-2004, 10:32 AM

new body on keith's buggy :)
http://8ths.dualbl.com/studysession.html

btw, looks good.. now go and run it!
-Nick

glassdoctor

12-17-2004, 11:24 PM

Hey, guys... I was just wondering who is using the hardened steel pinions that starluck has. How they are working with the stock steel diff gear?

When these gears are sold out, is there any talk of another run of them or a another source for something similar?

Also on a related note, is anyone using a plastic center gear with success?

I'm thinking of using a plastic spur setup initially so I can make gear changes much easier and cheaper than the all steel setup.

starluckrc

12-18-2004, 07:53 AM

Craps ran them with the big XL cans on his buggy, so they should take whatever you can dish out. No more plans for them in the future.......but I will be overseas in March, so who knows.

studysession

12-18-2004, 05:15 PM

Nick -
Once the motor shows up, I will be running it. Getting pics and video. I have one of the Mod-1 pitch pinions from starluckrc and will use stock center diff.

Found that the diff that allows the plastice spur gears does not fit the Hyper 7 without some modifications. I am considering of making my own replacement for the center diff. I am looking for other options at the moment since the other diff did not fit. I do not want to modify to much of the stock chassis to fit other diff's. Rather make a new diff to fit a stock chassis. Hope that makes sense....

sugs

12-18-2004, 05:18 PM

I don't know if it will fit either, but the RTR version of the Kyosho MP 7.5 that is currently out has a plastic spur gear.

SCHMACH

12-18-2004, 05:20 PM

hey guys, i had a thought about this spur gear problem with making 1/8 scale electric buggies. could you/we uake an aluminum or graphite circular spacer the size of the center diff...drill the appropriate holes from the original spur gear and then use the robinson racing ugraded slipper clutch metal plate and spur gear ring? then you'd have to drill holes in the rr clutch plate to screw into the diff.

studysession

12-18-2004, 06:39 PM

schmach -
I was thinking same thing - make an aluminum or steel spacer and then attach a gear to it. When I say making something to replace the diff - that is kind of what I am talking about.

SCHMACH

12-18-2004, 07:30 PM

this is what i mean...you would still use the center diff

studysession

12-18-2004, 07:51 PM

I am thinking of removing the diff entirely and putting a gear there. Like the shaft driven touring car - no center diff, just spur gear in its place. Perform the same as locking the center diff.

How ever I do like your idea.

SCHMACH

12-18-2004, 07:55 PM

why not just lock the center diff?

Cold Fusion

12-18-2004, 08:01 PM

Less rotating mass with this idea.

studysession

12-18-2004, 08:02 PM

I want to be able to put on other gears than stock. I have some other spurs and 5mm pinions I want to use. I have made some custom gear boxes for my speed cars. I want to use some of the same gearing setup from it on my buggy. I get the gears and 5mm pinions from different sponsors, so it is easy for me to get spares. I can make the center diff assembly to hold them or adapt them myself. So for me it is a cheaper solution and I already know they will hold up very well under preasure.

The other thing is space, buy the time I make an adaptor to hold these gears, there is not enough room for the diff itself. The spur gears I use are very think, helps with durability.

.

SCHMACH

12-18-2004, 09:56 PM

gotcha...i'm still working on a spur gear for my buggy...a lightning rr with a homemade aluminum chassis...here's a pic

studysession

12-19-2004, 05:02 AM

Nice pic!!

Mr. Constructor

12-19-2004, 07:12 AM

have you got more ?ß
(as my titanium converted lrk buggy uses the same chassis, by the way a very good and cheap chassis, i really like it as it is mostly like the mp 7.5 but without the high price :D :D :D )

SCHMACH

12-19-2004, 07:27 AM

exactly...no need to spend alot for the car when i'm not using alot of the stuff...i originaly wanted to use a kyosho mp 7.5...but not at $500.....besides it's got purple aluminum :D

studysession

12-26-2004, 09:20 AM

Today I am cutting a new motor plate out of 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum.
I will also be making something to replace my center differential this week.

studysession

12-28-2004, 03:19 PM

SCHMACH - Can you post a picture showing how you connected your battery cups? THANKS!

UPDATE: I have cut a motor plate from 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum yesterday. My 10L motor arrived today. Will be soldering on the gold leads to the motor later this week. I ordered some of the battery cups from Tower Hobbies. Waiting for them to arrive. I ordered some from EBay a while back but the guy had trouble and ended up refunding my money. When the ones from Tower arrive, I will install them.

Soldering the motor leads and mounting batteries are last two parts I need to do for the buggy. After that it is just a matter of mounting electronics and that is it. :)

SCHMACH

12-28-2004, 05:03 PM

here you go...just screws

studysession

12-28-2004, 05:37 PM

Thanks!

So you screwed them into the plastic rock guards??

ducati777

12-28-2004, 05:54 PM

@Study...

You probably noticed this already, but that looks like a home made aluminum chasis cut from a big sheet... thus he screwed them into the aluminum chasis. They would be rock guards on the stock chasis though....

studysession

12-28-2004, 05:57 PM

Yeah - Looks like lexan on the bottom.

That is what I am asking. Sorry if I was not clear. I ordered the battery cups - Do people just attach them to the rock guards or where???

Thanks!

studysession

12-28-2004, 06:26 PM

If I thought it would hold - for now to test this, I would use my old rock guards and put some holes through them and use velcro straps to hold the batteries.

For those who have done these buggies before, how well would that hold up? :confused: If that would hold up, I could be running this and getting video by the weekend. :D

The motor was a bit bigger than what I was expecting. Different brands of motors hhave different sizes. I have been using an L series motor that I borrowed from a friend and it was same length but not as thick in diameter.

Rotary Rocket

12-28-2004, 06:30 PM

Study you could use these FG battery holders...

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=161348&page=11&pp=25

ducati777

12-28-2004, 06:39 PM

Whoa... is that a big lexan skid plate??? Now I don't know what I'm lookin at...

studysession

12-28-2004, 06:41 PM

Thanks -

How well will the buggy hold up with the batteries velcro'ed to the plastic guards for now, just to get it going? I have some very nice velcro straps that I use on my speed cars.

It will probably be a couple of weeks before the battery cups arrive here. :(

studysession

12-28-2004, 06:47 PM

Here is another VERY COOL thing -

You know those camera for use on a like a small RC plane or car. A friend of mine bought one and gave it to me on permanent loan. Meaning if I do not like it or I decide I want a better one. Then I give this back to my friend, but until then it is mine for as long as I want. :)

I have a small TV with VCR that can hook up to my car cigerette lighter. If my wife can find the cable for it, I will use it to hook the receiver upto for recording. I would hook it to my camcorder, but it only has output and not input jacks.

This will allow me to put an onboard camera when running the buggy. :) Only draw back is it is video only, no audio.

SCHMACH

12-28-2004, 09:03 PM

it's not lexan....it's associated chassis protector...i used two sheets...i went with a homemade chassis because i don't like the look of the original chassis w/ rock guards for the conversion...doesn't have a clean appearance..i want to do a chassis out of graphite but i need to find a place that a)does custom work...like add kickup or b)needs to be 3/16" thick.

studysession

12-29-2004, 11:54 AM

OK -
I will be making a new motor plate after this weekend. I decided best spot for the motor to make sure everything fits on just the aluminum part of chassis - the motor should be OVER the center diff like some othere here have done. :)

Other than that, looks good for now. I have velcro'ed the batteries to the rock guards for now. Will keep them that way until I make another mount. I soldered the gold leads onto the motor this evening. Will give a test run in a bit.

Now I just lack a good servo. I took my good one and had to use it on another RC. I am not taking it back out either. So I ordered another good servo off EBay and will have to use a cheap one until then. :(

studysession

12-29-2004, 01:08 PM

What weight shock oil and diff oil is everyone running? And what springs should I get for my Hyper 7?

Right now I have the black springs installed. I need to rebuild the diffs and shocks. Have not done so since I have received the buggy when it was new. This weekend I am placing an order with Tower Hobbies and will get shock and diff oil and maybe a new set of springs along with the order that I am already going to place.

Thanks!!!

Rotary Rocket

12-29-2004, 02:45 PM

Study, just run it to see how it does...you can always fine tune the shocks and diffs later on. :D

I am very curious to see your motor mount. Can you post a pic?

studysession

12-29-2004, 02:56 PM

Yeah can always fine tune them later. But since it takes so long for things to get to me, I am going to order the diff & shock oil when I order my TLT-1 this weekend from Tower. ;)

As for pics - I will upload some later - if not today then tomorrow as it is already getting late here. Later this weekend I will be taking everything back off the buggy and will take a pic of the motor plate without being mounted so everyone can get a good look. It was CNC'ed from 1/4 inch 6061 aluminum and then I shaved a few milimeters from the thickness to make the pinion match up better. :)

studysession

12-29-2004, 07:03 PM

Happy me, Happy me! :D :cool:

I finally finished my Hyper 7 nitro to electric conversion. Before the end of day tomorrow I will post pics. Ended up pulling a good servo out of my Mini-Monster. Was the original steering servo for my H7 when it was nitro.

For now I do have to use a 27MHz radio. When MTroniks reopens after holidays I will ask for a propper 40MHz RX so I can use my Futaba 3pk radio with this. Hopefully they will give me one.

First will be loads of driving tomorrow - then after that - All I have left is to paint a new body and get the steering adjusted correctly. Right now with the reassembly it is not alined correctly - so the buggy will get a 4 wheel alignment before the weekend is over. :D Then when the new shock and diff oil arrives from Tower Hobbies, I will rebuild my shocks and diff's.

Can't wait to run this outside tomorrow. I am using the Warrior 9918 controller / Feigao 10L motor / Mod-1 16t pinion / 12 matched GP3300 Cells. The cells were matched and zapped and assembled by one of my sponsors in the US. The guy who owns the place matches them for me. This thing rocks.

Thanks for all the help. :)

Mr. Constructor

12-30-2004, 07:05 AM

YEEEESSSSS another guy has done it !!

the 8th scene is really growing !!

Good Luck !!

(My next is under the way too ;-) )

studysession

12-30-2004, 08:36 AM

All I can say is -- WWOOOWWW!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :)

That was so cool!@ When it was a nitro buggy it never went this fast.I got some new pictures and will upload them later. I am using the stock Hyper 7 PBS buggy body and have a new one to paint for the pics and videos to come later.

With a nitro engine the wheels would balloon - but with a brushless motor, it balloons so much that the rear wheels ends up rubbing the rear end of the buggy body. The torque from this thing is just insane. It was shooting dirst from the grass all over everything. It was very cool....... It performs fine with the batteries velcro'ed to the platic rock guards. I have not done any jumping yet but will soon enough. For now I will just leave the batteries strapped there.

When it was a nitro buggy - it would leave marks in the grass - but as brushless it leaves ruts all the way accross the yard. Wife is a bit upset about that.

THanks for all the help - you know if I did not stumble accross the old 1/8 scale electric thread, I may have never of done the conversion.

Now I am going to play some games with my kids - After that I will upload pics I took earlier. Can't wait till I get all the steering aligned. This things was awsome. :)

glassdoctor

12-30-2004, 10:34 AM

Sweet!!! Sounds awesome.

But stop that... mine's not done yet :( and you're making me anxious.... :)

As for the car setup... typical is about 40-60W oil in shocks, depends on pistons of course.. and 5000/7000/1000 or 3000/5000/1000 for diff oils, front to rear. That's a generic starting point.

Are you running the stock center diff or just a custom center gear?

MrC... soon there will be another electric 1/8 or maybe two... from me. :)

The 1/8 racers around here think I'm crazy.... they don't know what's about to hit em... ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha ha :D

studysession

12-30-2004, 10:48 AM

I just wish I have done this sooner. My Hyper 7 has sat for over 1 year waiting for me to do something with it. Nitro fuel is way to expensive to keep going out to get.

Now I just need a sponsor to provide me with high quality LiPo's and then I will be set. ;)

Hopefully someone will be around this weekend to work the video camera for me. I want to take mine up to the stray in Harrogate and run around and get some vids to post on my site.

studysession

12-30-2004, 10:49 AM

BTW - Running stock center diff for now. :)

Rotary Rocket

12-30-2004, 12:11 PM

Congrats Study. That is impressive about the buggy leaving ruts in the yard.

Good to hear it all worked. I wish a manufacturer would take notice and officially produce an electric 1/8 buggy.

studysession

12-30-2004, 05:47 PM

Well - was getting my gear ready for taking some action pics and video tomorrow and now the ESC does not work. This really sucks.

Only ran it like 10 - 15 minutes earlier today and no water or anything. No reason for it not to work now. I tested everything, so I am sure it is the ESC. This really sucks.

I am writing an article for a magazine about doing this conversion. What I did and step by step and why I did what etc... Tomorrow I was going to get videos and action shots to send to the magazine. Now I can't if I don't get this working.

Now that I vented will go and try and work on this some more and see if I can get it working.

studysession

12-30-2004, 07:15 PM

Ends up the negative wire on my Deans connector came un-done.

So ESC is fine. I was getting really ticked off at first. Thinking that maybe the ESC went. Thank god it did not.

And as for the ruts in my yard - If you go a page or two back you will see links to some pics of my buggy on Nick's website (thanks Nick for hosting them) - look at how nobby my tires are. When this is all done I am putting a truck body on this thing and will run it as a truggy. Those tires grip like no tomorrow on grass and dirt. Very nice and aggressive. :)

rstnboy

12-30-2004, 08:16 PM

Studysession, congratulations on your success with the buggy conversion. The power of the brushless systems is awesome as you are well aware. I have to give you a few words of warning though. This stuff is kind of like a drug addiction. It starts off mildly at first. You are satisfied with your current dose and the world seems alright. As time goes on, your previous levels no longer satisfy your cravings so you want more. The thirst builds and builds until it consumes you. Ok, maybe it's not that bad but I have found with my conversion that I never have enough power and speed.

On a more serious note, though, check the set screws on your drive cups regularly. Even with threadlock, they can work themselves loose due to the torque these things generate. I just went through mine today and all but one were loose.

studysession

12-30-2004, 08:42 PM

I know about the addictions. You would not believe the number of kits I own. Much less the number of brushless motors.

BTW: My two Chili-Pepper 50S series motors arrived today.

rstnboy

12-30-2004, 09:13 PM

I can believe it. I just got into RC in May of this year and I currently have:

Brushless Mini-T
E-Maxx with some minor upgrades
Ofna MBX R2 Brushless Buggy conversion
XTM XLB

The bad thing is, I still go to the different web sites and say "Wow, that one is really cool looking! I wonder if I "need" (emphasis on "need") that one too!" I also scour the different RC magazines and all the new things just look like they "need" (once again empasis on "need") to come live at my house. It doesn't help when Tower sends me coupon that I feel compelled to use at the earliest opportunity.

Combatcm

12-31-2004, 09:13 PM

I myself would not like to see a production buggy. A BL 1/8 is cool because nobody really has them. You have a nearly custom car that will have no duplicate. Electronics costs will be very high. They would sell a kit for $250 and then you would need to buy electronics that cost nearly $350. Sure anyone could buy it, but there are cheaper things out there that most people would spend their money on.

I just spent 4 hours straight with random hardware rigging everything up on mine. I put a top lexan plate for the receiver and I made an ESC mount also out of lexan. I also bought some titan wheels and tires for it just to see how it performs with them. New front shocks with 3.5mm shafts are on the front and I made custom music wire hinge pins with collets on each end so they stay on and also so I dont have to deal with E clips anymore.

glassdoctor

12-31-2004, 09:30 PM

What would be nice is to have more available pieces of the puzzle. Like gears, battery mounting options, and a couple CNC'd motor/diff mounts.

Then we could assemble a custom car, but reduce some of the headaches. Some things like gears are not best made in your basement. ;)

rstnboy

12-31-2004, 10:34 PM

The hardest part I had to contend with when building mine was the motor mount and center diff gearing. The buggy I used had the center diff offset from the chassis centerline. In the interest of side to side balance, I moved it to the centerline of the chassis. This required I turn the diff mounts upside down to make clearance for the spur gear. I could have enlarged the already existing spur clearance hole in the chassis but I didn't want to do that. Also, there is only one size of spur gear for the car I have unless I modified some E-Maxx spurs. I did this for the proof of concept testing but I wasn't all that pleased with the concentricity of the gear in relation to the diff.

I, too, think the fact that we made these buggies makes them unique and provides them with a certain "Wow" factor, especially when they outperform their nitro counterparts. The look on people's faces when I pelt them with an all wheel drive sand and rock shower is priceless! What I would like to see is more spur gear options to fit the multitude of center diff designs and/or a larger selection of pinion sizes. Since these are actually designed for nitro, I suppose that won't actually happen unless the nitro guys request them or one of us finds a way to have them manufactured economically.

studysession

01-01-2005, 10:28 AM

OK -

This is NOT the best of videos but it is the best I can deliver at this time. My camera person forgot to press the record button most of the time when we were filming. :eek: :) When we get new spares we will get more video. But for now my buggy is out for the count until I get a new rear diff case and wing mounts for the buggy. It is cold here and they break easy in the cold.

http://studysession.com/product-reviews/H7Conversion/VideoBrushlessBuggy-Run1.wmv

Part not captured on video:
We had a bike ramp and it is bitterly cold here in the UK. First 2 jumps were fine and and then the third I broke the wing mount. Plastic breaks very easy in the cold. Then kept running with no wing - Then 5th or 6th jump the rear diff where the screws held the wing screws finally broke and then could not run the buggy anymore.

It was loads of fun. Can't believe the torque this thing has. It was a very good day over all. Just wish did not break anything and wish the run times were a bit longer. Only got 8 - 10 minutes. Batteries had more power left but were ready for a change.

Let me know what you think of the video. It won't stay up there long.

Rotary Rocket

01-01-2005, 10:45 AM

That buggy is fast. I see what you mean about digging ruts. :D

It looked like the grass was wet, you could see a rooster tail coming off all four wheels. Was it? If it was wet how did your electronics do?

studysession

01-01-2005, 10:58 AM

The electronics held up fine. No moister inside the body at all. Jut some dirt on inside. The rooster tail coming off was taller than I am. :) It was very cool - just wish the video was better. :(

As for fast - YEAH - It is a lot faster being brushless than it was nitro. :)

Rotary Rocket

01-02-2005, 12:52 AM

Just surfed DualBL's site. It is nice to see everyone's 1/8 buggy conversion. :D

I saw some Hyper 7s, but don't think anyone's has done a 9.5 yet?!

I might convert my 9.5 to BL too. Measured the chassis and it is 5mm longer than the Kanai. This extra lenght might actually allow a set up where the motor and batteries are all directly on the alum chassis.

Combatcm

01-02-2005, 03:29 AM

Mines a 9.5, a violator, though. It still has the same chassis design but adds the longer arms and the offset kingpin suspension that's it. It seems like the most simple buggy to do the conversion.

2 runs today. The first I just took it in a dirt lot. It went really fast 40+ and spin the tires forever. Second run it it just like all my other crappy runs. It runs good for 10 seconds and then dies. It is so obvious it seems that it is the ESC not the batteries. Because once in a while it just doesn't want to run a long time. The batteries are fully charged. I took the packs out of the second run and they charged at 3 amps for 10 minutes. I need to guage packs singly to find out which ones are good. But I wrote an "A" on 2 the packs that worked and "B" on the ones that didn't work good so I can always run the same packs together. It's very irritating becuase I run the car somewhere and have no idea if it going to work or not. Does anyone experiance this?

glassdoctor

01-02-2005, 04:44 AM

Sounds like you have some battery issues.. bad cells in a couple packs? Or a charger problem? What charger are you using?

You shouldn't have problems like that.

studysession

01-02-2005, 08:35 AM

Before when I asked about mounting batteries on rocks guards. people made it sound like not a good idea. Over all I did not see where it bothered anything having them there when I did my run. Even when jumping before I broke parts yesterday, they seemed to be ok the entire time.

rstnboy

01-02-2005, 09:48 AM

glass doctor - I have 4 brand new packs. I just built them within the past two weeks. I am using piranha digital peak chargers.

studysession - My packs are mounted half on, half off the rock guards and they are doing fine. I am using industrial strength velcro that spans the joint where the rock guards meet the aluminum part of the chassis. The velcor seems to reinforce that joint a bit. I have less flex there now than before.

studysession

01-02-2005, 10:15 AM

Updated video:
http://studysession.com/product-reviews/H7Conversion/Hyper7ConversionReviewVideo-Run1.wmv

The company I am doing the article for asked me to edit out some of the dark images out of the video. Old link will not work, use this one. Once they put it on their server, I will take this one down and post a link from there.

Let me know what you think of this version of the video. :)

Cheers -

Combatcm

01-02-2005, 10:05 PM

The video doesn't do the car justice. Running it in a dirt lot or even a parking lot will represent the car better.

Next time you make a video make sure you have the sun behind the camera.

Mine

studysession

01-03-2005, 03:02 PM

Yeah - We the person running the camera did not fully understand. So when I get my replacement parts, i will get better video. That video is waht the magazine is going to use since that is all we got.

bigair78

01-06-2005, 11:50 PM

I want one bad, who's up for building one and me buying it from them?

Cold Fusion

01-06-2005, 11:52 PM

I've got an almost 400 post thread about doing that exact thing. Check it out.

bigair78

01-07-2005, 11:23 AM

I've got an almost 400 post thread about doing that exact thing. Check it out.

Where? Does anyone know if craps sold his yet?

bigair78

01-08-2005, 11:51 AM

Anyone?

studysession

01-08-2005, 11:56 AM

Try PM'ing craps to see if he sold it - dunno. Personally I think you are better off doing your own conversion. Get a 1/8 scale with no engine off ebay and a stock EMaxx motor plate and modify to your needs.

There really is not much to it - Other than it is time consuming and is loads of fun to do.

I am waiting for replacement parts to arrive for mine until I can run it again.

sugs

01-08-2005, 02:05 PM

Yeah, Craps sold his buggy some time ago. I don't remember where he posted that but I know he did. It was probably in the original 1/8 scale electric racing thread that he started.

studysession

01-23-2005, 10:56 AM

Any updates from anyone???? :)

Today I am rebuilding two of my diff's and designing a new rear shock tower in AutoCAD for my H7. Should have H7 back together either tonight or tomorrow. New shock tower should be done and cut before end of week.

studysession

01-23-2005, 04:38 PM

I got my H7 back together - Will be running it later this week. :)

Combatcm

01-24-2005, 10:01 AM

I confirmed my speed from 2 6 cells Sanyo 3000mah packs. Was 35mph. Enough for racing.

rstnboy

01-24-2005, 10:20 AM

I entered mine in its first race last weekend. I actually got to race with the 1/8 nitro buggies. It did pretty well until the steering servo went out and one of the front shocks busted. I managed to cobble it back together for the next race but the shock busted again. Right now it is sitting in the shed awaiting parts.

One of the turn marshals did haul it off the track after a flip thinking the engine had died. It took a lot of persuasion to get him to put it back on the track. He wouldn't stop arguing with me long enough for me to explain that it was electric so I hit the throttle full on...I think the sudden full throttle torque twist while it was still in his hand finally convinced him. The look on his face after that was priceless.

Combatcm - Depending on the track you are running, 35mph is more than enough. Mine goes 45mph and it was just too much for the track I was on. I was running a 10L on 16 cells. Since I am waiting for parts, I converted my packs to 6 cells which should get me in the 35mph ballpark.

Rotary Rocket

01-24-2005, 11:31 AM

rstnboy, that is a funny story. :D

My Hacker Comp losses its breaks after 3-4 minutes of run time, then thermals after about 10 minutes of run time.

What controllers are you guys having success with in your buggies?

studysession

01-24-2005, 01:51 PM

I am using the Warrior 9918 on 12 cells. Just for kicks on the pavement, I am going to try a higher kv motor on 6 cells and see what happens. I emailed BK to see what setup was good for this motor - they think their controller will hold up. Once the magazine article is released, i will post new pics of the buggy for everyone to see. Until then I can not release the final pics.

tcolesen

01-24-2005, 06:58 PM

rstnboy-that is awesome! That is one stupid turn marshal. He needs to come on these boards!

rstnboy

01-24-2005, 07:13 PM

Rotary Rocket - I am using the Warrior 9918 and so far it is doing well. It hasn't thermaled yet even when I was running the 8L on 16 cells just for speed runs.

tcolesen - I don't know if it was so much stupidity as a stubborn unwillingness to accept the possibility that he could be wrong. Although afterwards I believe I did use the word "stupid" to describe him when relating the story to someone else. You are correct though that he needs to come to these boards and check out what could be done with a little ingenuity and work. Unfortunately, here in the tiny, backwards hamlet of Alamogordo (affectionately referred to as "Alamoghetto"), New Mexico, the concepts of ambition, ingenuity, and innovation are somewhat foreign to the general populace.

studysession

01-25-2005, 04:13 PM

Finally - Here are the pics of my Hyper 7 converstion:
http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=467

studysession

01-25-2005, 05:35 PM

..........................

tcolesen

01-25-2005, 06:27 PM

Nice job. Two of the thumbnail pics link you to the same one though.

studysession

01-25-2005, 06:31 PM

THANKS for pointing that out. To much man! :)

joemama

01-25-2005, 06:38 PM

Hey Study thats a very informative article..good job. Thats the same Motor/controller setup i have on my emaxx..however I would recomend ( if you can fit them) adding two more cells so you have 14 cells total...the 10L runs best with 14-16 cells..That would give it even more power to play with. Oh yeah I have a question: do you think it would be possible to convert my HPI Nitro Mt to electric? I think it might be possible...its just fitting everything on the chassis that I'm worried about. Man if i strapped a 8L on 12 cells in that thing it would hit 50mph plus!

studysession

01-25-2005, 08:28 PM

As for the power - 12 cells is more than enough. Right now the tires baloon up so much that i keep having to lay off the throttle because the tires get to where they rub the body and make horrible sounds. :) That is a good thing. Just loads of fun.

You can always convert anything you want to electric. It is matter of being creative. How creative do you want to be? That is all it boils down to.

Let you in on a secret --- All these other people that post here about their 1/8 scales. They are the experts. If not for them, I would have never of done the conversion. When I came accross their original 1/8 scale electric thread, and all the info it contained. That just made me have to do it and now I am glad I did.

Mike @ RC-Monster.com & Jamie & StarluckRC.com were a big help too!!! THANKS!! :)

sugs

01-25-2005, 09:33 PM

Hey SS, what brand of mill do you have. I couldn't quite make out the name. Micro mill or something.

starluckrc

01-25-2005, 10:15 PM

joemama

01-25-2005, 11:13 PM

hey guys..I just started converting my Nitro Mt to electric..I basically cut up an old emaxx motor mount..drilled a few holes and now ive got the motor mounted. Its looking really good so far..I havent decided if i want to go brushless w/ it yet..I dont know if I can afford it right now..I'm only a senior in high school..or I could get a job..Nahhh!
Hey Starluckrc (im assuming you're Jamie... but if not, its cool) thats really sweet that you converted the MT... when i was still runing it nitro..it was probably the best handling vehicle i've driven besides my XXX buggy..and now with the new, clean power of electric its going to be so fun to drive knowing that I won't have to worry about tons of fuel and oil everywhere. I'll probably end up buying some Mod 1 gears off your site in the near future cuz im going to need them for the MT. I think im just going to run it on one Titan on 12 cells and see how it holds up...im not expecting much from the 2 year old stocker...but it should put out some decent power seeing as the truck weighs next to nothing...

joemama

01-26-2005, 06:54 PM

No no no!!...Doesnt anyone make Mod 1 pinions that fit the stock Titans??? I dont want to run my 10L in my electric MT...and starluck only makes 5mm bore mod 1 pinions..Boo. Do they even make the mod 1's in that size?

studysession

01-26-2005, 06:57 PM

Stock titans? Will they have enough power to push the thing? I have an EMaxx and do not care for the stock motors.

joemama

01-26-2005, 07:07 PM

I'm not running them in my Emaxx...(10L/9918 powered) im using one titan on 12 cells in my Hpi Nitro turned Electric MT (its like 3 pounds..not even) I'm sure one titan will be enough.

starluckrc

01-26-2005, 10:03 PM

Only one was ever made that I am aware of and can be next to impossible to find. It's made for the Kyosho ATV in 15T only.

OpIvy

01-26-2005, 11:27 PM

it's part #: KYOC4721
used to show up on Tower Hobbies, but it doesn't anymore. and the QuadRiderEP is discontinued =\
-Nick

Mr. Constructor

01-27-2005, 04:13 AM

There will be normal hardened steel (not high stress steel) pinions available in the near future via my shop (watch my web adress back for news)
But these are from 12 to 15 Tooth, the tooth side is 8mm thick, the pinions are secured via 1 M3 small screw, they´re entirely out of machined steel, the prices will be 6,50 euro each, excluding shipping.
The bore is 3,17 mm (1/8") the external diametere is as follows (from 12-15 tooth) 14,15,16,17 mm, the part where the set screw is in is 6mm long and is 10 mm in diameter.

These pinions could be made to fit a 4mm shaft, ask for it, also 5mm ones are possible (all versions will show up in th shop within a few weeks.
(with many other 8th scale elctric related parts too.)

feel free to E-mail me, for any further questions.

joemama

01-27-2005, 05:57 PM

Mr. C....do your gears have the same meshing as the mod 1 gears?

oh yeah i found some 1/8" bore 48 pitch gears...are they the same as mod 1 as far as the mesh.

studysession

01-27-2005, 05:59 PM

48p gears are not the same.

Danno

01-27-2005, 08:13 PM

Hey , I got a dumb question . Is the new Novak HV setup powerful enough for a buggy ? I would presume so , I`m thinking about it for one of my HB lightnings .

studysession

01-27-2005, 08:18 PM

If you are new to brushless - you will most likely be happy with it. Novak makes a good plug and play system that is good for beginners. Now for almost same money you can run a propper brushless system using a Warrior 9918 ESC and a Fiegao motor. Both can be purchased from
http://www.starluckrc.com or http://www.rc-monster.com

tcolesen

01-27-2005, 08:25 PM

Jamie will in the future have the MGM 80amp esc for $155. It should be able to run a 9L in a buggy (probably with cooling) on 12 cells. So a Feigao 9L ($80) + MGM 80amp controller ($155) = $235! Pretty inexpensive for a buggy setup if you ask me.

Combatcm

01-28-2005, 03:53 AM

I noticed that since we usually use our ESC's above our front diffs, the metal on metal contact makes my car glitch sometimes, I was thinking about going as far as putting on some sort of shield to block the frequency. Sometimes when my radio is off and I spin the tires it will spin the motor and glitch everything.

Mr. Constructor

01-28-2005, 04:58 AM

Thats the reason wy i used delrin on the main gears and alu or steel on the pinions, and to answer the mod 1 question: yes they will fir the normal spur gear on ANY 8th buggy (as all have mod 1 gears, the 48dp will NOT fit, the teeth size is way smaller)

There is another choice coming up: mod 0,7 gears (same brass, delrin a.s.o.) i will offer them too, we´ll see whenever they´re good or not, the noise reduction and the bigger tooth count at the same diameter are a + in most conversions as space is limited.

The Novak esc is rated at 375 W, is that enough ??
I don´t think so, most buggys weight around 4 kg ready to run or even above, these cars do need a powerful motor/esc system, the paeks that was readed on my cars are around 100A and the average amp draw is at 30-60 A (depending on driving style and the surface you´re riding on.)

So it would be hard, but Novak claimed that they wanna use it for the emaxx or similar cars, hmm that could be very close, maybe the esc will fry that often than the first ss5800´s will ??

we´ll all see when it´s out and running for a while.

Combatcm

01-28-2005, 08:43 AM

Well, if it was made for the E-maxx (wouldn't you love the luxury of them making a motor system specifically for your car) it would definetely be great for use in a buggy. Better accereration and a little faster. And then, the performance it lacks will be made up in the longer run times which I'm sure people would enjoy the same.

glassdoctor

01-29-2005, 04:53 PM

The guys at Novak have tested the HV in a 1/8 buggy and told me it worked very well, in their opinion.

I have no idea how they get 375W rating... but it seems to do just fine anyway...

studysession

01-29-2005, 04:56 PM

My EMaxx is heavier than my 1/8 scale buggy. If it is supposed to be able to work in an EMaxx - then it should be fine for a 1/8 scale buggy. I personally am not happy with my Novak SS 5800 - so I would not buy the other.

My Novak SS 5800 just came back from repairs. It worked for 3 minutes and now I have to send it back to them.:(

glassdoctor

01-29-2005, 05:14 PM

Ouch... that sounds like my charger that I had to send in the same day I got it back from being "repaired".

rkilling1

01-29-2005, 06:09 PM

"ok. look, see this answer, ===> www.1-scal.T.com"
spam

studysession

01-29-2005, 06:14 PM

He has been putting same crap all over the place.

Combatcm

01-29-2005, 09:23 PM

It seems to me that 50% of the people with the novak have problems with it. I use on on my tamiya buggy and I use the highest ratio possible. But when I experimented with lower ratios it got very hot.

TMaxxBenny25

02-08-2005, 08:10 PM

1 of yall give me your cause im to lazy to build 1

Combatcm

02-13-2005, 07:49 PM

What cell count would yield the longest runtime. They say lower cell count = lower amps = longer time, but I dont think a 8 cells would be enough for racing. I am wondering if I should run 12, 14, 16 or 18 cells. I need to last at least 8 minutes.

tcolesen

02-13-2005, 08:39 PM

You could run more cells, and then gear down. That would yield lower amp draw (at least theoretically) and longer runtimes. But it wouldn't work unless you geared down.

Mr. Constructor

02-14-2005, 03:43 AM

if going in a 10th a max. of 8 cells is way enough we all found out (ok some even put 20V lipos in 10th but i think it´s extremely hard to drive it on a course !!) and around 12 as a standart in 8th has near by "established" a few others go beyond up to 16 in a 8th buggy, the truck conversions could even be powered up to 30 cells but the more cells, the less good weight to power ratio is there, so the 12 cells for a 8th had to be found that it is good compromise between weight and power availability.

the gearing off course had to alternated or lowered since the cell numbers go down or rise, but try to fit more than 12 cells gently (not pinching every single cell in a small left open room, and connect 20 of such loose cells with loooong wires ;-)) ) in a 8th buggy this is hard enough as the rest of the drivetrain and electrics want their place too !!

Combatcm

02-16-2005, 04:47 PM

I figure this thread could use some pictures. I used this body last year and it flaked a lot of paint, so I masked it over and backed it with the same colors. II was going to buy a new body since this one has the engine cutout, but I need money spent elsewhere. Blue, black and white really look good, now I just need some white front springs.

....waiting for season....

mikeyr00

02-28-2005, 09:51 PM

I figured I'd chime in and share what I've been up to. I've been reading these forums for a while and finally decided to give brushless a try. I've been thinking of doing it for a while but really wanted a good system where I thought I could get good tech support if I had a problem, that why I decided to go with Novak HV Maxx. I've had Novak ESC's in the past and have always been really reliable. My subject was an OFNA LX GT PRO, I think. The engine never ran very good and I threw the rod after just 10 runs or so. Nitro was such a pain in the a** comaired to electric that I just had to try electric on the buggy. I ran it twice with a very old Trinity Monster Mash and Novak T410 and it seemed to run pretty good. I'll try to attach some pics but if that doesn't work, just send me your e-mail and I'll send you the pics zipped up.
The HV Maxx setup is very impressive. Super torquey and very punchy on cheap batteries. I have it geared very pretty low with a 70 tooth 32p spur and 12 tooth pinion. I will soon be changing that out to a 66 toot spur and 14 tooth pinion, that should speed things up a bit. The speed is about the same as the old Force .21 when I first got the car. I had it really lean when I broke the engine and it's not quite as fast as that but pretty close. It's super smooth in both foward and reverse and runs just like a brushed motor. So far I highly recommend it.

mikeyr00

02-28-2005, 09:54 PM

this one is of the whole car. I mounted the servo with tape, cut up the servo tray and used it for the rear diff to center diff brace. I mounted the ESC on that. I'm milling out new center diff holders with the motor mount built in as well as making new braces that look a little better than the stock ones. What does everybody think?

TMaxxBenny25

02-28-2005, 10:28 PM

Looks good. I wish i had the money and time to do something like that!

Mr. Constructor

03-01-2005, 04:20 AM

how´s about overheating the esc (old problem on the novak ss5800) is it that good suited that it handles it now without getting fried every now and then ??

how´s the price (cheapes´t at tower or is there a cheaper source ??)

anyway, the buggy conversion looks clean and good organised, no wonder it felt good when driving it the first time, have fun with it !!!

mikeyr00

03-01-2005, 07:25 AM

The speed controller and motor stay cool to the touch. Maybe a little warm by the end of the packs. I don't race it just chase the neighborhood cats and runthrough the leaves. I geared it low so I could test it out first and not overheat everything. The ONLY negative the Novak has going for it is the warranty. I think it's only 90 days or 120 days. I wanted to have the car ready before I ordered so I could thrash it and if it broke send it in. The also have a great re-sale value on E-bay just incase it work as I expected then I could get most of my money back and not have to mess with retuning it.

I ordered it from Tower since they have a pretty good customer service and seemed a little more likely to replace it if there were problems. I ordered it last month when they had $30 off everything over $199 plus I got free shipping. I think it was around $250 total. Not bad really. My old Novak T410 was getting a little ragged and I had never had a reversing speed controller so a good one of those was going to run $140 or so. Then you stick in a good motor and factor in the time I would spend cleaning it and the HV maxx looks really good!!!!

I do a lot of cleaing and maint. on my stuff. The last car i ordered was the RC10T when it first came out in 1990 and I still have it chasing my brushless Ofna. I've only had the ofna since last summer and never liked the engine but the car itself is built like a tank. It seemed perfect for the conversion and with all the help of this forum and other brushless sources it was a breeze.

Once I mill out the new motor mount and center diff holders, I may sell a few and try to pay for some better batteries. I may also sell some of the center diff gears I made from other spurs to fit the ofna center diff. Thanks again for the comments. And a big thanks for all of the ideas.

Mike

studysession

03-01-2005, 01:10 PM

These forums seemed to slow down a lot. Seemed like quite a few people were working on the conversions and then all the sudden stopped.

Mr. Constructor

03-01-2005, 04:15 PM

hmm, from whom did he hear that ;-) . . . . . .we´ll see . . . . . .

;-)

good luck on the ofna project !!

sugs

03-02-2005, 12:55 AM

Where are you getting the spur gears from? Does that ofna buggy come with spurs that large?

mikeyr00

03-02-2005, 06:42 AM

That spur is a Traxxas Stampede 70 tooth. It was just supposed to be a tamplate but wound up working. Here's the best part. On the spur, around the center, there are a bunch of holes used for the slipper "thingy's" used on the traxxas stampede. Now, 4 of those holes lined up perfectly, I mean dead on, with the four screws that hold the ofna center diff together. I tried using them but the problem is that if you attache the gear on either side of the diff, it makes it too wide to fit in the center diff holders. I'm still working on how to use this gift but will probably have to make new holders to compisate. The 4 holes used to hold the stock spur gear are 1.5 inches apart so I ordered an RC10GT spur, also 32p, and planned on using my friends mill to make 4 mounting holes in the gear and then mill out the center to resemble the stock ofna gear. The RC10GT gears are almost solid without holes all over the place so I should be able get the mounting holes I need without a problem.

Currently in the pictures I'm using the Stampede spur with the Ofna spur mounting tabs through the large holes that are on the outer edge of the spur. They don't line up exactly but I got it pretty close. I used washers to help make up the difference but if the gear should slip a little it should recenter itself since each mounting bolt goes through a round hole. Once I mill the new gear it will be perfect.

ronin8451

03-03-2005, 10:53 AM

Mounting the steering servo with servo tape is for small , light 1/12th or 1/10th scale electrics, not a 9lb. 1/8 scale buggy ! You will see that on the first run after you land a jump just slightly off or one wheel low and the servo pops off. You need to get some servo mounting blocks and drill some holes in the chassis so you can bolt that puppy down. You also will need a good high torque servo with at least 100 in./oz. of tq. to steer it .
Good luck with your conversion !

Rick

mikeyr00

03-03-2005, 06:17 PM

I've run the car over 15 times with the servo tape and it's still just as tight as when it was installed. Even wrecked it straight into a tree on one tire. The servo saver does it's job, no problem. I made sure to clean both surfaces, I even roughed them up a bit with sand paper for better surface area. Trust me, it's not coming off. I have stripped the horn well before knocking one of the servos loose from that tape. I do need to get a stronger servo on there but just having fun with it now. I don't race it just run it in the yard and street which can be just as rough as any race.

ducati777

03-03-2005, 07:44 PM

Well I'm glad its holding up for you, but I'd tend to agree that a solid mount is preferable. I used tape in a micro, and it worked well enough, but over time it degraded. Not fast enough to be a problem, there are plenty of other items on the car that degrade with time.

But if you see a good opportunity to mount that servo, I'd jump on it.

studysession

03-03-2005, 08:01 PM

When I use tape - the servo's seem to move around to much for me. They do not come off completely but there is some movement.

rstnboy

03-05-2005, 11:08 AM

These forums seemed to slow down a lot. Seemed like quite a few people were working on the conversions and then all the sudden stopped.

I know what you mean. I had mine up and running until I took it to the track and saw just how badly a technical track can beat up a buggy...I broke at least one thing every race and finally just got fed up. It is in pieces right now serving as a spare parts supply for my nitro buggy. On a less technical track it would be competitive but it just weighs too much for the suspension to handle anything less than perfect jumps and landings. I might go down to 10 cells (from the current 12) and do some chassis rework to try and lighten it but for right now, with the weather more conducive to outdoor activities, I want to play more than I want to engineer.

rhylsadar

03-05-2005, 02:08 PM

hi
here a 2nd small vid of the BL MP7.5.
rightclick and save as (http://62.2.107.106/~beat/Dateien/BLMP75.mpg) (21MB)
bye
rhylsadar

Rotary Rocket

03-05-2005, 04:08 PM

:D :eek: :D

studysession

03-05-2005, 04:21 PM

Nice video. :)

vad

03-07-2005, 12:15 AM

Can someone suggest a good set up for the Hyper 7 pro buggy motor and ESC. Im thinking Schulze 18.129FW 4 timing settings With Reverse and brakes, and Hacker 10L or 11L. Does the 18.129FW have BEC? Would it be better to go with the 9918. Also who is a good source for these items?

Mr. Constructor

03-07-2005, 04:40 AM

the hackers feature a 3,17 mm shaft, better use a more beefy 5mm instead (maybe hacker b 50 or feigao, or electronic model titan series) as for the esc its only non bec type, the 12.97 will be with bec, but only 12 cells, why not trying a mgm ?? 120A 12 cells, or do you really need 12+ cells ?? if yes, then only schulze is the goal.
the 9918 is cheap, but the software isn´t that good, sometimes (dep. on motor, setup, a.s,o.) it really has that bad cogging !!

feel free to email me directly if you wish some prices on these products (i do carry some of the above mentioned)

as for motors the chili series from bmi might be a choice too !!
the new hacker 12 cell esc might be a choice too, but it will be hard to get as it hasn´t been really released here in germany (only in few numbers)
get another plastik main gear and steel pinions then your roughly ready for building the car !!

studysession

03-07-2005, 12:09 PM

I used a 10L & Warrior 9918 ESC in my Hyper 7.

Combatcm

03-07-2005, 01:20 PM

Can you disable reverse on the warrior controllers?

starluckrc

03-07-2005, 03:04 PM

Yes!

Combatcm

03-07-2005, 10:33 PM

How!

Do you need the software?

tcolesen

03-07-2005, 10:51 PM

Go to this website:
http://www.bk-electronics.com/bk_eng.html
Hover over picture of the controller, and then hover over the controller programming step by step. Hover over the forward/reverse option you want, and it tells you how to program the 9918 accordingly.

Combatcm

03-08-2005, 01:51 PM

Sweet

Thanks

Splog

03-15-2005, 12:03 PM

Hi Guys,

This is all exciting stuff :)

I have a hyper 7 pro pbs that I’d like to convert.. but I’ve got a few questions.

StudySession: It looks like you are using the standard size spur (46 tooth or so). Is this correct? Have you noticed any wear on this spur or the $25(!!!!!!!) pinion?

I plan on using 12 3300 GP’s (perhaps 14). Is the Feigao 5408410L the motor to go for or should I consider a 9L?

Any info is much appreciated.

Cheers,

Rog

studysession

03-15-2005, 12:11 PM

I am using the stock center diff and spur with a Fiegao 10L motor on 12 cells. Pleanty enough power for what I like. I have not noticed any wear to worry about yet. I have about 8 to 10 runs on it so far.

Cheers -

TimisTim

03-15-2005, 12:15 PM

Hey studysession I just ordered the Battery tubes you used on your buggy, how do they go together? Just tightens with a screw adjustment or a lock down mechanism of sorts?

studysession

03-15-2005, 12:31 PM

Cool - Did you also use the SPT? They should of come with directions.

http://studysession.com/product-reviews/spt/SPTInstructions.doc

Here is a link to the instructions I have. If this is not good enough, I would say give Pete a call at Model Electronics Corp - (866)507-9956

Cheers -

TimisTim

03-15-2005, 01:20 PM

Hey thanx, I just ordered them (yep SPT) and if they work out I will be ordering many more. Seems to be a revolutionizing invention. When used with the silver paste it has to be almost as good as soldering.

I guess I should have checked the site for instructions :o

studysession

03-15-2005, 01:33 PM

I am not sure if that is on their site or not. Right now I have it on my site because I am working on a webversion, step by step how to for the SPT. Good stuff!

I am also using the SPT in my insane speed car project. It is a lot easier for when I want to go up in # of cells.

TimisTim

03-15-2005, 01:59 PM

Yeah I cant find it on the site and the link you sent earlier wont open on my computer for some reason or other. It tries but then sends an error about the graphics conversion filter( :confused: ).

Im just sticking to the six cell version for my stadium truck, but I wanted to make a small two cells pack to wire in a series with my six to make an eight cell, do I just place a battery bar across the two cells + to - and then connect them with a series connector that I made? I dont have enough room for an eight cell stick or side by side pack but I can fit an extra two cells where my speed control goes and move the controler to my where my rx is. I know about the wire length problem but I will take some measurments before I comit.

Combatcm

03-15-2005, 11:09 PM

Some videos we made today

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51670
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51673
http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51677

Check out the speed of it. I'll try to get more.

Splog

03-17-2005, 04:06 AM

Hello all,

I've just ordered a 9L, 10L and a Warrior 9918 from Starluck.

I'll be sure to come back with photos when it's done!

Latter,

Rog

Splog

03-17-2005, 04:14 AM

That is a pretty powerful beast you have there Combatcm!

What are you running in that? Did you kill it under the truck in the middle video? :eek:

Combatcm

03-17-2005, 09:15 AM

Complete setup is geared 15/47, powered by a feigao 9L with 12 GP3000 cells and a BK 9918 esc.

I broke the lower shock mount and a wing mount. The jump that killed it was not on video. It landed in the snow crater after a slowish approach. In that one the car landed on the opposite ramp and was fine. I'm trying to get a near 60mph jump on video, the buggy goes about 40, but I haven't speed checked it with fresh cycled cells like it was in the video.

I've had crazy plans of jumping it over stores, houses, roads, highways, pools anything. Anything stupid will be on video.

Splog

03-17-2005, 12:43 PM

That's awesome!!

what sort of run time do u get with that setup? and what sort of buggy is it?

hrmmm this 5l of nitro is gona go stale that's for sure :)

Rog

Combatcm

03-17-2005, 02:39 PM

I got a little over 7 minutes officially timed with 1 flat pack. It would be almost the same with 12.

Even with 1 6 cell pack its amazing, it goes about 28mph, accerates like a rocket, weights less than nitro, lower CG, more central weight distribution. Amazing because it weighs more than twice any other 1/10 car and can undoubtedly own any other car on the track with a 6.

The motor mount is pretty flexible compared to the motor that's screwed into it and the power it has, but the motor rests against the front chassis brace, so the motor can't twist and the pinion separate from the spur. Luck I guess how it ended up that way. Most people have beefy custom plates. I would suggest stacking 2 T4/B4 plates and making holes in them so screws can pass through them into the brake assembly holes, then find a way to get a 3rd screw into the bottom diff mount.

Over the next few weeks I will test everything about the car, speed with 6, 12, 18 cells, and will also compare some faster lap times with each number of cells. So people can get more aware of how these things run.

Combatcm

03-17-2005, 05:16 PM

More today, its 18 cells, nearly killed the ESC. It went about 51mph. I would not reccomend 18 cells. I found a skateboard jump there too. Going to get a nice 40 foot jump tomarrow.

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51827

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51826

http://www.******.net/view_single.php?medid=51825

tcolesen

03-17-2005, 09:36 PM

In those vids with the onboard camera- the tire looks so weird! Are you sure that you glued the tire on? It just looks like some very odd tire ballooning, and looks impossible.

ducati777

03-17-2005, 09:44 PM

That was COOL.

The tire peeling off the rim was really cool. If the whole tire came unglued, then it implies some crazy resonanace (sp?) going on. The tire would peel up at roughly the same place, pointing to a force that stayed put in relation to the wheel. I never would have guessed that would happen, and I'm still thinking about it.

Car looks fast. Nice that you can run it in the hot or the cold with little difference in performance. I love the idea of an electric buggy, and my sits on a shelf every day because I think its a pain to run. If only I had a thousand bones to do a nice conversion... Tough to justify when a really nice new motor would only be 300ish.

Maybe I'll go BL on one of my 18th scalers... I could probably afford that....

Big respect to those of you with electric buggys, I think they're one of my favorite conversions.

Combatcm

03-18-2005, 10:26 AM

Yeah, it seems that the tire goes on the rim as it touches the ground and then whips out as it goes upward and stays their. Weird stuff, in the below pic, you can even see the other side of the rim.

ducati777

03-18-2005, 04:53 PM

Its a great demonstration of the crazy forces our cars have to put up with...

I'm thinkin that the contact patch hitting the ground at speed is really getting whacked, and then it rebounds. The rebound is what we're seeing, which would help explain why the wave stays put, and if I'm right, it should change position a bit with speed.... But I'm just shooting from the hip on this one.

Combatcm

03-18-2005, 05:32 PM

I checked the tire and it was glued into position in one half. I think the slow camera speed took frames wierd and shot it in such a way that the photos were taken makes it look unglued. Like waving a hand in front of the TV.

Ran it again today, we bashed the skate park and broke all of our cars. I knocked the endbell off the motor, broke a front camber link and snapped my lexan radio plate in half. I reached 53mph, because of the glued tire. Eveything was captured on analog video, I'll try to get a friend to convert it for me soon. I won't run it again for at least a week.

I was going to get the 50mph jump on video, but the camber link broke on one of the first jumps and all of the footage later I left it broken. I didn't want to mangle the thing, but if it means breaking a hub or an arm I would say I would be happy with that. Someone suggested a pond and I was all for it.

Combatcm

04-05-2005, 02:32 AM

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/combatcm/montagebuggy.jpg

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y93/combatcm/Bigbuggy.jpg

I recently added the BB servo saver and made a new connector to run twin parallel packs. It goes a raceable 28mph. And will last longer than 14 minutes. I won't go past 10 minutes for pack safety.

Somebody else has to make one, it's easy, just time consuming.

Batfish

04-05-2005, 08:29 AM

[IMG]
Somebody else has to make one, it's easy, just time consuming.

I will be making one soon. The plan is to put together an electric that can compete with nitro at my LHS. As usual, run time will be the big factor, but I'm hoping I can do well with the new lipo that FMA is coming out with (Scorpion). I would expect the weight savings and efficiency of two 3200 7.4v packs will get me around 15 minutes, or cut it very close.

I plan to start with the Ofna 1/8 Hyper 7 TQ Sport Kit, add in a 9L or 10L, UBEC, and use the MGM 120. I've also got to decide on the right servo. Considering a couple of these items aren't available yet, I've got a couple months to put this together. I've got plenty of 6-cell GP 3300 packs to get going even if I don't have the lipos ready, so I'm really just waiting on the controller.

Any thoughts/advice?

ducati777

04-05-2005, 11:38 AM

I wish I had the money to make one... I ran my buggy yesterday under good old nitro power and it was pretty fun. My front suspension sucks so it understeered badly. I'll have to work on that one...

Combatcm

04-05-2005, 02:47 PM

I was going to get those scorpion packs, I looked around for prices but found nothing. Any more information on those?

Batfish

04-05-2005, 09:12 PM

I was going to get those scorpion packs, I looked around for prices but found nothing. Any more information on those?

I have no new information that hasn't been publicly available. Based on current pack and charger prices, I expect the battery and charger set to sell for $200-$250, and either piece to sell for $100-$125 individually. RCDriver compared the pack to a $100 matched pack, so I'm guessing they got a roundabout estimate of that much from FMA. Most lipo chargers with limited functionality (the one with the scorpion system only charges 2S from what I've read) sell in the $100 range.

Just guesses at this point, but I'm fine with paying $200 for lipos with new safety features and a 20min quick charge. If you haven't see the scant information on their website, check out:
https://www.fmadirect.com/site/wolf/scorpionSplashPage/

If you haven't read the article in the latest RCDriver, stop by your local book store or news stand and read it - it's pretty impressive, even if you already know about lipo benefits.

Batfish

04-06-2005, 08:31 AM

Combatcm - what gearing are you using and where did you get the gears?

Batfish

04-06-2005, 11:25 PM

Combatcm - I just realized that you posted 15/47 earlier, so that gives me the gearing - where did you buy the pinion? (assuming you're using the stock spur)

Also, I'm curious as to how you wired the packs for parallel. Can you give a description/picture/drawing? I'll need to get as much runtime as I can with the 3300s I have until I switch to lipo.

Thanks.

Combatcm

04-06-2005, 11:43 PM

Batfish

04-10-2005, 11:09 PM

I got the special module 1 pinion from starluckrc.com. He stocks 15 and 16. $25 for them. I'd recommed 15T simply because I never want to have it smoke on me, and it lessens the chance.

I've got about 20 runs on the pinion and it has no signs of wearing.

Thanks for the information. I have the pinion ordered from Jamie and StarluckRC.

Could you give me more information on the parallel setup of your batteries?