View Full Version : Lehner Basic vs. Hacker C40 S
OptimaMan
12-04-2004, 11:42 PM
Hey guys, today I was able to do a direct comparison in my TC4 between the Lehner Basic 3600 and Hacker C40 12 s (3500 kV). I ran it with 11.1 volts in a small indoor track with rubber tires and traction compound. I am using "20" tires (very soft) so I kept on traction rolling so I lowered the car to 3mm ride height and droop at 8 mm!!
Any body interested in the results???
OptimaMan
12-05-2004, 12:15 AM
Okay, I'm just teasing. In a touring car, a 400 size motor will always outperform a 500 series motor. The C40 is a 400 series motor. The 15xx lehner is a 400 size motor. Both motors were extremely powerful and had the same speed - the motors don't slow down very much when they're geared 10.5:1. However, they felt very different. The Basic series being a heavier rotor definitely took more time to "spool up". The Basic series however, spools up a lot faster than a B50 motor! The C40 12 s on 14.8 literally snaps into gear and takes off like a bat out of hell. The Basic motor revs up and maintains its momentum a little more.
Once again, I stand by what I've always said. A 400 sized rotor is the ideal motor for a TC. A Basic motor is suited for slightly heavier models needing a little more torque, and the Hacker B50 or Feigao (Nemesis) etc. are all better for E maxxes and 1/8 buggies. SO, DON'T GET A FEIGAO or B50 for a touring car! It's a waste of energy.
Now, one exception - if you're trying to hit 100 mph, you'll need a bigger motor. But, for 99.9% of you guys out there, get a C40 s or a Lehner 15xx with the appropriate wind motor for your application and you won't go wrong.
BTW, my TC4 diffs have completely melted. I'll be buying a steel diff soon for my TC4.
Hey it's good Opti to see that you are back in full force with all sort of motor / esc / batt and a race track with some time in your hand ( not to mention the Eagle Tree system) !
I am assuming that when you say melted your diff, it is the gears, right ?
I am crossing my fingers, but mine are holding up. I don't know exactly what material your TC4 gears are made off, but as you might have noticed with your Pro4, it's a type of graphite reinforced nylon, very stiff material. Is that the same on your TC4 ?
I'll be soon using a spool at the rear though...
DFF
studysession
12-05-2004, 04:37 AM
WOW! Melted diff's?
OptimaMan
12-05-2004, 01:34 PM
Yeah, the diff was set at tight - no slippage, but I continued to race, it seemed to start loosening on its own. After about 10 minutes, it was slipping quite a bit so I stopped. After a few minutes, the whole rear diff is completely shot. When I get a chance to take it apart, I'll post a pic of it. I'm going to get steel outdrives for it - better heat dissipation and crank it down even tighter. Perhaps DaFF is right - 1/10 electric TC weren't really designed to handle 1 horsepower.
OptimaMan
12-05-2004, 01:35 PM
Too bad I didn't have my eagletree stuff while I was racing - but I'm pretty sure the thing had to be pulling closer to 3 g of acceleration yesterday. I'll find out next week for sure what kind of acceleration I'm pulling.
Got the exact same probleme on my Pro4 ! Rear diff is loosening on his own and slipping bad after 10/12 minutes. I already shoot to death 3 diffs outdrive.
The thing was completly melted.
My rear gears are holding though, and so is my whole front one-way diff.
That is the reason why I am saying that I'm buying a solid spool for the rear to solve this issue.
When you have high power motor, you need to thighten the rear ball diff so hard, that anyway the rear diff action is reduced to nearly nothing.
The high end 1/8 4x4 do the same, they all have a solid spool at the back and one way front. Mind you, they have HUGE rear traction because the rear tires they use are very wide.
So, at my track, someone told me that the conjonction of a rear spool is OK if you have a lot of grip at the back.
That is also the reason why I am buying 1/10 foam 35 mm wide tire for the back that I found after a long search.
I'll let you know how it does after I test try this setup, but I think this is the only way to go for 1/10 high power BL like we have.
DFF
TheMartian
12-06-2004, 01:30 PM
Perhaps DaFF is right - 1/10 electric TC weren't really designed to handle 1 horsepower.
1 HP = 745.699872 Watts... Didn't know that a C40 12S could produce that much power!!! At 14.8V you must be pulling about 50.4A... very impressive.
starluckrc
12-06-2004, 03:47 PM
The C40-S cans are 500W rated motors.
Rotary Rocket
12-07-2004, 12:53 AM
1 HP = 745.699872 Watts... Didn't know that a C40 12S could produce that much power!!! At 14.8V you must be pulling about 50.4A... very impressive.
Can the Hacker C40 12S handle 14.8V (4S4P LiPo) in a touring car without over heating?
I was thinking of using one in a 1/8 Tamiya TGX converted to BL. I am currently using a Lehner 4200 on 14.8V (4S4P LiPo) and it seems to get really hot.
OptimaMan
12-07-2004, 01:38 AM
It got pretty hot after 10 minutes - but you could still hold onto it without burning your fingers. Next time, I'll get a temp reading so no more guesses. The c40 are pretty nice cuz of their heatsinks - really dissipates heat really well. However, using it in a 1/8th will probably cause it to get hotter due to more mass.