View Full Version : Most durable 1/10 TC for Brushless/Lipo?
FninjaP90
12-06-2004, 09:51 PM
So I'm hearing things about melted diffs and the fact that 1/10th scale cars were just not designed to handle that much power.
So what's the most durable competition level TC? Belt drive is out of the question, and I've seen Optimaman and Daff burn up their Pro4 and TC4 drivetrains. Is there any car that can safely handle brushless/lipo or have adequate aftermarket support for parts to handle that setup? How about the Yokomo MR-4TC SSG SD?
I really like how the Pro4 looks, but is a more robust diff available?
kufman
12-06-2004, 10:13 PM
maybe you should look to a nitro car conversion... Better diffs and stuff. The SSG will be similiar to the TC3 and the pro 4. You might be able to use these cars if you tighten the diffs a lot!!!
TheSteve
12-06-2004, 10:40 PM
The diffs in my xxx-s G+ have survived brushless so far(and the belt does fine), they do however have grade 3 ceramic nitride diff balls.
Powerplants include Aveox RC7's, Hacker C40 6s, 7s, 12s and the B50 6s. Hard driving on asphalt with rubber tires.
OptimaMan
12-06-2004, 10:48 PM
Yeah, when I had my XXX-S G+, it survived - except when I crashed into the steel pole at 60 mph and cracked the chassis, broke the motor, and sheared off the suspension! But the diff always survived - but at the same token, I've never ran my XXX-S G+ with 14.8 volts or higher.
A belt driven car can survive the abuse of high power motors, but the drivetrain must have a good protection against dirt, like the xxx-s has or it needs to have wider belts like some of the nitro sedans.
I have driven the Yokomo CGM this summer and it has held up perfectly. I have run more then 50 packs in total with the C40-6S and C40 6L with both 6 and 8 cells on high grip asfalt tracks.
The parts for the car seems to be really low priced also compared to other cars I haved. Nothing have broken though during the hole summer, wich is pretty rare.
The car is built like a tank but it also weighs like one, 1470 grams with U-Force, 6 GP:s and C40-6S but without body !
The only real downside with the car from the box is that the steering has to much "play" with the stock balljoints and assembly. They need to be replaced with better ones.
NIC
mrkinigit
12-07-2004, 09:09 AM
What about using the diffs and outdives from the ntc3 and putting them into a tc3/4?
i think same can be done with acadamy vehicles. While not ball-diffs, the ones from the gp 4wd truck can fit inside the touring car gearboxes.
FninjaP90
12-07-2004, 05:25 PM
So when the diff melts, which part actually melts? The diff plates/balls or the gear mesh with the driveshaft gear?
Belts can handle the power while shaftdrive can't? Isn't shaft drive more durable than belted?
Can anyone post which aftermarket or out-of-model diff fits in which touring car?
Are their any alloy diff gears (ring & pinion) for the TC3?
havy
studysession
12-08-2004, 08:40 PM
My TC3 - I have been runing brushless and running 12+ cells and it works fine. I open up the diff's and clean and relube. But all same parts from when i purchased it.
Ran a Lehner 5300 with 12 cells, couple of different AXI motors, Hacker C40-6S, Novak. The diff's are fine.
OptimaMan
12-08-2004, 09:41 PM
study: are you running it on a high traction track or are you bashing around the street? For bashing and speed runs, it seems like the diffs have no problem, but after slamming on the gas and brakes for 10 full minutes non-stop, that's when things start to get loose and get hot and melt. It also depends on the track too I suppose. I'm in a very small indoor carpet track with constant stop and go - very little rest for the motor, controller, and diff.
studysession
12-09-2004, 11:22 AM
Right now it is more bashing and speed runs. But I run more than 10min at a time and all is fine. I have many sets of batteries and quick as one set is charged and I throw it on and keep on going. Trying to make the ESC's and motors get hot when I test them.
On the TC3 I have no worries on the diff's. They hold up well. I also use a Colt10 for testing these products and it has a ball diff. It runs fine after 20 or more minutes of very high speeds on 10 cells.
I have not heard of the diff's melting before reading peoples posts here in this forum.
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