T3 (Nemisis 6S) No Wheelies

[ICEMAN32]

What setup do I have to use to make my T3 do wheelies... Im using a Nemisis 6s motor along with a Shultze 12.97 fwe with a a 6 cell 3300s. IM also using some Masher 2000s tires in the rear with the front stock tires that came with the T3. I have not popped one wheelie yet..... Please help....Merry Christmas my RC buddies...

[evaderstman]

Put a pinion with less teeth on and run somewhere with tons of traction

[glassdoctor]

Bigger tires in the rear like that should make wheelies pretty easy. If the above advice won't work, ad another cell or two. :)

[kufman]

Do the thing mentioned above. Make sure the diff is really tight and then tighten the slipper down till you pull wheelies. Most than likely you will fry the diff no matter how tight it is. I have several times with my T3 and my Aveox RC7 on 10 cells.

[ICEMAN32]

How Do I Tighten The Rear Diff

[glassdoctor]

Good point.. I never even thought about the slipper and diff...

If the diff is slipping, it makes an obvious scratchy chirping noise. To tighten it, use a 7/64 (I think) allen wrench inserted into the right diff outdrive. Hold the left wheel and spur gear stationary and tighten the diff srew... it won't take much, maybe 1/4 turn or so if it's slipping a little.

Of course, the slipper could need tightened too. It's not noisy like a diff, so you can tell which is slipping.

[ElectricThunder]

All the above will give you wheelies (I get wheelies that'll put my T3 on its lid within 5 feet with an SS5800 on crap 7 cell packs with monster mashers all around!). Another weak spot could be connectors. Deans or powerpole connectors do make a difference in performance, so if you don't have those, I suggest getting them. Gearing is very important too. I gear 15-16/87 with monster mashers since they're so beefy and have a larger diameter. I also lock my diff cause I'm weird like that..:D

[WDGuy]

My diff in my T3 is slipping and I tightened it down as much as possible, how can I fix it?? I am running a 12x2 Speed Gems, I put a diff with a fresh rebuild in it but it is still slipping.

[kufman]

it is hard to keep the T3 diff from slipping, that is why the T4 uses a RC10-GT diff instead. I haven't found a way to keep my diff from slipping. I have to loosen the slipper instead which kills the wheelies.

[glassdoctor]

WDGuy, next time you have the diff apart you might ty filing the diff sligthly to allow it to be tightened a little more. I can't exlpain it... when you have it all apart, just take the two diff-outdrive halfs and hold them together. There's usually a gap between the plates (the surface where the balls go).

If so, file the "male" side of the diff where it slides together, so it can be tightened more... les gap between the diff halfs.

That might not help... there might not be "excessive gap" there, but I have seen diffs that needed this "help", to be tightened properly.

But next time you rebuild it's worth a check.

Hey, Kufman... this is "clearconcepts".... I'm heading to the post office to send your xxx4g+ :)

[ElectricThunder]

I just tighten the diff as far as it'll go. If you're desperate to get it not to slip, then just simply lock it with some putty or VERY heavy weight diff silicone. Hot glue works too.:D

[OptimaMan]

I think it's the motor. I had a B506s and it had no torque. The b508s would easily wheelie my Matt Francis, and with the Basic 5300 was a wheelie machine - but that darn B506s was a good for nothing motor unless you find a way to get batteries and controller to pump in over 100 amps into that juice sucker.

[bob2300NX]

Maybe you should try two battery packs in a parrelel? This is give you more amps and runtime.