Setting up a cat. I need some help.

[ejp]

I just ordered a mean machine hull only. Now I need to know how to set it up. Where do I place my engine??? how much of an angle do I want it at??

By the way, its going to be a .21 going in it. :D :D

How do I bring the flex shaft through the bottom of the hull, I saw on DD post he go a "Butch block". Is there anything like that, that I can use?????

[Doubledog]

Dang... third thread? :rolleyes:

You really are excited.....

[ejp]

DD, lets use this tread.

[Doubledog]

whatever works for you, just try not to flood it with three (actually four) threads of the same thing. Makes it easier to keep up for us old guys. :)

[ejp]

So, heres the first question. Do I need rubber mounts or will solid be o.k.?

[ejp]

O.k. Heres a parts list. Please tell me if I'm missing something.
This for just the hardware.
1. Rudder
2. Strut(see pic)
3. 3/16 flexshaft and brass tubing
4. Drive dog
5. Prop nut
6. Thrust washer

[BoatDoc]

don't forget the drive collet so you can connect your motor to the drive shaft

[ejp]

Oh, yeah got that too. Thanks:D

[rc10gtisthebest]

Radio Box
Wood for Stringers
Either Needle bearings or Reducers w/ Led Bushings
Flex Furrel
Servos
Linakges
Engine
Engine mounts
Fiberglass Mat
Resin
Floatation
Radio/Receiver

That's all I can think of... It might not all be hardware, but still...

-Todd

[ejp]

Actually the strut I got is brass bushed so I don't need reducer bushings I don't think
Can I use oak for the stringers?
I have most of the other stuff also.

Hey, DD. Does it matter where my stuffing tube exits the hull just as long as the engine is in the right spot?

[ejp]

Can I just glass in some mounts? Would this make the hull week without full stringers? Would glassing them in hold good enough? I want to do this so I can open up some area for the radio box.

[Doubledog]

If not mistaken, Aeromarine will send instructions with it.... ?....?

This gives you an idea of about where it should exit. I'm lazy but also live by the saying "work smarter, not harder". Another pic of the Butch Block. Wonderful piece of equipment that really simplifies stub installation. Don't know if he makes one for nitro or not.

If it were mine, I'd try to align (aim) the end of the engine in as straight line as possible to where the back of the prop should be. Not so much friction on the drive that ='s speed. Maybe take a small piece of of wood (angle chip preffered), & drill the right size hole for the stuffing tube. Block & the strut will hold the stuffing tube in place.

Try to forgive my way of explaining. Its much easier than it sounds. :)

[BoatDoc]

ejp- if you want to glass in the mounts have a look at how DD's engine is mounted. it should give you some ideas. however, you're looking at making you're own mount to do so. it has it's ups and downs too. one plus that i can see is that on DD's mounts he can adjust the angle of the engine. i'm sure it wouldn't be very hard to make a set of mounts similar to that for a nitro engine. just take your time and build it strong and straight and you'll have a worry free engine for a long time. if you need idea's just ask, i'm sure we can all help you out.

[Doubledog]

Will the boat come with wood rails? Didn't want to get off the subject by posting. Reason for it was to show the Butch Block. A little pricey, but worth every cent.

[BoatDoc]

ejp-here's a rough idea for an engine mount. the first pic shows the parts you'll need to build it. i'd recommend mounting the engine to the plates using 4-40 bolts, and using 6-32 bolts to mount the plates to the lugs. you'll also need 4 rubber isolators. this is just to get the general idea across...but it should help.

[BoatDoc]

this pic shows how the parts would be assembled.

[ejp]

Thanks guys. I did order a solid engine mount though. Also, DD what is a angle chip block? No, it doesn't come with stringers because it is an electric version. I also heard that pointing the back of the engine towards where the prop will be is a good idea. What am I going to do about my exhaust and the radio box. I have the 180* header.
Also, I was told to put my engine level and make an S bend. Is this a good or bad idea???

[Watercadet]

You don't need a thrust washer unless you are using square drive. If you are using a collet the cable will push on the motor and not the strut eliminating the need for the tefflon washer.(assuming you did leave the requsit gap between the drive dog and strut). You will not need a feurle if you are using a one piece cable/stub shaft that has been soldered. The chanels in the hull that make the tunnel, stiffen it like stringers would so I would think the individual mounts would be fine. The "s" bend is the right thing to do; it is easyer for the stuffing tube to control the "whip" in the cable making it more free to spin.
Adam

[ejp]

Awsome. So How far should I go straight and then bend for the "S". Where should my flexshaft exit the hull? Wher should my engine be placed in the hull for CG??? Where is the CG of the engine?? :confused:

[Watercadet]

What I would do is let the S bend dictate the hole in the bottom. Hang the hardware and mount the motor, then measure the drop distance between the centre of the strut and the flex hex on the motor. Form a s bend in the tube that will match that same drop and cut the hole in the hull where the tube and the hull intersect. I am not explaining it very well and don't have CAD to draw a diagram, so pleace ask questions where you are not clear.
The CG info should be included with the set up instructions. That is a regular Aeromarine, what Avenger or SprintCat? It was designed for a .21 so that CG info should be available from AM.
Adam

[ejp]

Well, this is kind of a crapy diagram but something like this? :D :D

Or, do I want to start my bend sooner?

[Watercadet]

That is what I am talking about. I would start the second bend ( under the hull ) a little sooner to make it more gradual.
Adam

[ejp]

O.k. Now if I do that how do I drill my hole at the right angle? Should I start my bend sooner off the collet?

[Watercadet]

The collet side is fine. The "hole" is more like a slot. That is the way it is done in 90% of the boats.
Adam

[ejp]

So would the best way to do this, set my bit on the spot where I want to drill. Then set my stuffing tube next to it to find the correct angle and drill. Would it be smart to drill a pilot hole first?

If I do aluminum engine mounts I want to do them all one piec and 'glass the in. Should I put slots for the fiberglass to hold on to?

Also I plan on using 1 1/2 angle so that will lift my engine up about 1/8 or a little more from the bottom because the mount will have to be higher. Is this going to be a problem? Would it just be easier if I can see if I can order engine rails from aeromarine?

[Watercadet]

Dremel with cut off wheel- 4 cuts= 1 SLOT
Adam

[ejp]

Called aeromarine this morning. Great help. They are sending me the blue prints for one of their other boats. Said it would be easier if I did that. He also said to set them up with a 14* angle on the engine. I don't know what to do yet, maybe I'll wait to recieve everything.

[Watercadet]

Go with the angle down. The s bend would be too sever with a flat mount.
Ada,

[ejp]

Alright then I will. I think I am going to buy the strut and rudder tomorrow. I can't wait to recieve everything and get it on the water. I'll be sure to post some pics right when I get the boat and everything else. :D

[ejp]

What size fuel tank do i want??? 10oz?

[BoatDoc]

depends on the run time you want. i run my .21's on a 6 or 8 oz tank.

[ejp]

Ok. I'll do an 8 oz then so I can get a pretty good run time.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Don't forget a hopper tank as well. 2 oz should do.

-Todd

[ejp]

Well, I'll try the 8 oz and if thats not enough I'll put a hopper in.

[ejp]

Well I ordered everything. You name it, its on its way. I think it will all get here at about the same time too. I think the easiest thing to do would be to add stringers. But thats just me, tell me what you think.

[Doubledog]

Its on the way? Good. Take plenty of pics of the build up.

[BoatDoc]

if you're going to put in stringers make sure you use good quality wood and glass 'em in really good. if you already have the mount you're going to use, use that to help place your stringers into the hull. can't wait to see some pics.

[ejp]

Oh, don't worry. I'll take plenty of pictures. I can't wait to start building this thing. Won't I have to put a tone of glass in the hull if I put aluminum mounts in it? Will I want to put a layer of epoxy and then put the mounts down and glass them in. Do they need to be scuffed up really well to help it stick?

[ejp]

I got some of the hardware today. I only see one thing that makes me wonder. Is the gap surposed to be this big between the teflon and the flex shaft? :confused:

[Watercadet]

I got some of the hardware today. I only see one thing that makes me wonder. Is the gap surposed to be this big between the teflon and the flex shaft? :confused:

That is fine.

[Chilly]

Looks about right to me. If there is no gap, the teflon would wear a lot when the tube swells a little from the heat generated by the friction of rotating.

[ejp]

I am ticked OFF. My boat still didn't get here and its been 2 weeks!!! Also I ordered parts last tuesday and they still didn't get here. :mad: :mad:

[ejp]

Hows this look for the angle??

[rc10gtisthebest]

looks about right

[ejp]

I got it. It doesn't have the front bulkhead :confused: Its going to take some time to get everything layed out. It seems like the hull itself it really shallow. Is that normal???

[ejp]

Do I need a bulkhead??? :confused: If anyone can help with something they see please say!!!

[ejp]

More. Does this look about right for the engine? Thats at 11 inches and 40% is 11.6.

[ejp]

another. I can't wait to make this have some color.

[ejp]

One of the front.

[ejp]

Hows this look for engine placement? Are the aluminum mounts big enough if I just glass them in with about 2 layers of cloth and resin? Should I just run wood stringers all the way up the hull for strength? Don't really pay attention to the carbon fiber. Its in there a little of center so jus look at the sponsons.

[Doubledog]

Looks like a cake walk. & very nice.

Bulkheads? A little extra strength can't hurt. My feelings are that if AM would've wanted them, then they would have suggested or even done so.

[ejp]

Well, my header hits the hatch. Any suggestions????? Got my hardware today also.

[CFRACR]

HMM,

The header now thats a tricky one. Since I was going to answer your question regarding the engine mount/plate. If it were me I would not just glass the aluminum plate in. I would place a piece of ply thick enough to put some screws in. Epoxy that in, then maybe even glass over that & then put that mount on it. (screw down)

It seems as though there is minimum room for what you have for the engine compartment, so you will have to figure something out. Since no one has set one up yet & your are the first you will make HISTORY. :D

[ejp]

Can I have my rudder about 1/4 of an inch from being inline with the sponson or will this make it turn funny.

[ejp]

Heres a few pics of the engine mounts. I am gone to put 2 or 3, 1inch slots in the bottoms so the 'glass will also mend with the existing 'glass. So, do you think these will work???? :confused: :confused:

[ejp]

Another. :confused:

[ejp]

Last one. :rolleyes:

[Watercadet]

I am leary of the whole motor mount being metal. That is going to transmit all the vibration to the hull and the radio equipment. Most of those Octura mounts like you are using I have seen in between wood stringers. I think those would be a better idea. Just cutting slots in the the angle stock for the 'glass to go through and have surface contact won't be enough. Use wood stringers and lay the glass over the whole thing. I think the negative engine angle is too much too. Maybe a few degrees less than where it is now. I realize that there might be a problem then with the stuffing tube layout but remember the flex shaft won't have to run straight as long as that drill bit is. Have you gotten the setup instructions for the cat from Aeromarine for the .21? Those shoulg give you the right CG and strut and rudder placement. While you are there get the Aeromarine radio box. Don't even think about running that boat with exposed servos. If you lower the motor in the mounts and lower the angle that the motor is sitting at I think that will help the header clearence issue as well.
What ya think?
Adam

[CFRACR]

WC- I think mat be right on that one. You may not want to take the risk of radio problems because of those mounts. If it did cause a problem then you would really have a problem if you epoxied them in................

[ejp]

Theres only one problem with wood stringers. I don't have a front bulkhead, so what do I tie the fronts to????

[Watercadet]

Most monos including mine don't have front bulkheads. The stringers are just glassed to the bottom of the hull. The Motor mount can supply some latteral support.
Adam

[ejp]

Well, I figured out what I am going to do. I made stringers with two cross pieces in them. I am going to taper the ends down and I am also not going clear to the back. I will post some pics when they are built and ready to glass in. Also, with my rudder placement. Can it be inline with the sponson? It is about 1/4 of an inch to the inside of the sponson now, is that ok or will it turn funny????

[ejp]

Here are the mounts. I am still wondering whether I need cross pieces or not???

[ejp]

One more. So what do you think now???

[Watercadet]

That is more like it. Maybe though double up the stringers. The stringers on my mono are about 1/2"
Adam

[CFRACR]

Way better!!!

I would tell you to put triangle stock on the bottom edges but I'm sure you don't have any. Since you don't have a LHS, would be difficult. That would help support those mounts. If your not in a blistering hurry I would try to get some & do it right.

[ejp]

What about my rudder though?? is it ok if it is almost inline with the sponson???

[ejp]

Is this ok. for rudder placement??????

[ejp]

Another.

[ejp]

Last one.

[Watercadet]

Don't know. Do you plan to mostly turn right? That will make it do mostly that. How does the setup sheet explain it? I would build a radio box first and see how the linkage needs to be ran. Lay out. Measure twice; cut once.
Adam

[ejp]

Why will it make it turn mostly right??? I don't really know what else to do. I am going to get to close to the prop if I move it in more.

[Watercadet]

What kind of blade you gunna turn with that motor huh?!?! You can bring the rudder a lot closser than that.
Our models turn better to the right anyway due to the direction the prop turns. Making a turn to the left would send the weight to the right side of the boat. If a rudder was too far over, the boat would "trip" over it. It would be like riding a bike and leaning out of the turn as opposed to into the turn. What will happen? Turning to the right with the rudder to the right, will use the rudder as a fulcrum instead of a stumbling point.
Adam

[ejp]

Well, I mounted it. If it turns like crap then I'll take it off and fill the holes with red gelcoat and remount. Its that easy.

[scorpien boats]

Thats one cool cat!


your running a 3.5 right??

Looks good !

[CFRACR]

Well, I mounted it. If it turns like crap then I'll take it off and fill the holes with red gelcoat and remount. Its that easy.


Turn like CRAP!! Yes to the left it sure will. You most likely will have almost no left turn. Will turn on a dime right, take the whole pond to turn left. Thats a race course set up since they're run clockwise.

[ejp]

Thanks for the compliment scorp. Well, I like to run clockwise anyway. I'll just see and if I need left I'll move the rudder.

[rc10gtisthebest]

If you haven't already mounted them, try and shave as much as possible off of the bottom of the stringers. The lower the engine, the better the handling.

[rc10gtisthebest]

Oh yea, I am only running 1/4" ply stringers on my 7.5 so those look thick enough.

[ejp]

Well, I did already start glassing them in. But, I can cut the mount a little and slot the holes or drill new ones to bring it down. But, I might just leave it and see.

[97TRAKIN]

With your rudder mounted where it is your going to have better right turns than lefts thats just the way it is. Reason, the prop turns counter clockwise and tends to walk the transom to the left. It being a cat left turns are going to be tight just not as tight as right turns. If it were a mono it would be a totally different story. You could even mount it on the left for almost euqal turning authority left and right.
How do I know? I tried it on my sprint cat.

[ejp]

How good do cats turn exactly. Do they reqiere(sp) a lot of turning area?

[Doubledog]

I'm with Water Cadet... move it in closer to the prop. I've got mine setup so that its right at the edge of the prop. That came from several emails from guys wanting to help out & offering thier .02. After compiling it all together, most all was within a hair of each others 'opinions'.

First run & first run only, it turned fine in either direction for play, but will take a right hand like its on rails!

Move it in a little.

[CFRACR]

Right DD,
Cats Like to roll over in the turns. Just a smidge to much & your retrieving a dunked hull. Learning its turning limits is the key. When the torque comes off the left sponson in the turns, it will come over in a heartbeat if it makes to sharp of a right turn to fast.

EJP's set up may work just fine. There's really no way of knowing since he seems to be the first one with a MM-18 here! :D Also he'll be running a .21, so his set up is just what we want to know about. The only downside is that he can't give us radar #'s to know the speeds he's getting. :(

Keep up the good work EJP-& keep us posted.................... :)

[97TRAKIN]

it turned fine in either direction for play, but will take a right hand like its on rails!

Move it in a little.

I agree with this^.

[ejp]

I just might be able to get the speed readings. They won't be exact becuase I would use a gps and it would add weight but at least I would be able to give numbers.

[Doubledog]

The Garmin Geko is perfect. Its about 4 oz w/batteries? Thats half the weight of the Etrex I'm using now. Better yet, I'll sell you my Etrex & use the money towards a Geko :D

[Rickracer]

Shoot, 4 ounces could easily be offset by running a light load of fuel for GPS runs. :D

[ejp]

Great Idea.

[ejp]

So, what prop do I want to run??? It is an o.s. 21.

[ejp]

Does this micro servo have enough torque to turn the rudder?? Is it ok for the throttle?? I am a little tight on space so I just thought of this.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXTX42&P=ML

[Doubledog]

standard servo should be fine. Just keep an extra one or two along. Me personally, I'd upgrade. Prop? Depends on whats in the box at the time. LOL. Don't know, P215 for starters, X427, x430

[BoatDoc]

the X427 and X430 are probably too small. DD's right about the P215...you could also try out the P220 and the X438. those 3 are good .21 size props.

[rc10gtisthebest]

The micro should be good for throttle, and a high torque metal geared servo should be enough for steering.

Something like this, http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ81&P=ML

-Todd

[ejp]

I think I'll order a micro for the throttle and try just a standard one for steering. i can always replace it.

[ejp]

How do these look for the header. The reason I have to do this is because my factory header hits my hatch. Does this look like it will work? Can I put this at any angle I want?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000601842&I=LXAGD1&P=K
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000601842&I=LXVG95&P=K

[rc10gtisthebest]

Those are a viable option. However, those will not work on a pull start engine unless you make an extension like I did. I will get some pics of the extension plates and post em tonight when I get home.

-Todd

[ejp]

What happens???? Please show me.:D

[ejp]

Well, I got my mounts halfway glassed in. I just have to put a coat over the top where the engine mount is and maybe do a second coat of glass and mat. Do you guys think I need two coats or will one be o.k. Remember, its only a .21 not a 30cc big gasser.:D

[ejp]

I think I am going to try a x640. My manual says a 40-44mm with a pitch of 1.0 to 1.6.

[ejp]

So, can you show me that extension plate yet??

[rc10gtisthebest]

Sorry, was busy with work and other stuff and other things. Basically all I did was make two (1/4" thick) cut outs of the profile of the adapter. And then stacked them up to the adpater and then screwed them in and wah'la. You'll have to use longer screws when attaching it though.

If you don't extend the adpater out, the header won't clear the pullstarter.

Here is a pic but it is rather crude. I will try and take them off to get a better pic but it's late so I will have to postphone that till tomorrow.

-Todd

EDIT: Damn webshots! Pic's not working. PM me your email and I'll get it to ya. But not that hard to imagine.

[ejp]

Not a big deal. How many coats of fiberglass do I need to do?? I have one right now and it seems really strong. i can pull the starter and push side to side and all that flexes is the hull itself.

[TRIKDYA]

I think I'll order a micro for the throttle and try just a standard one for steering. i can always replace it.


good luck with that. I used a standard Futuba S3003 servo for the steering in my first boat (Kyosho Heatwave..lol) and stripped the gear in it a few times. I even had to switch to metal gear servo's for my Nitro Trucks as they were stripping out too :(

[scorpien boats]

yeah i would at leasted go with a ball bearing servo or the hitec (ummm what do they call it?? i forgot)but it has these special gears that they say are 4 times as strong as plastic and less expensive than metal gears... thats the servo im using in my tunnel right now...

[scorpien boats]

ok i rememberd now .... its the hitech karbonite gear servo....

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDEM1&P=ML

[ejp]

Can I run without a radio box on my servos if I fill them with dialectic grease???

[Watercadet]

Man u been buissy! OK, the prop is exactly what I would recomend. We are running X440/3 on .21 monos and a cat will be able to turn more pitch and dia. than that. The standard will be fine for the steering. TRIKDYA, correct me if I am wrong but didn't that heatwave have a steerable outdrive? That would put a lot more strain on the servo than just a rudder on a properly set up boat. I honestly believe that a servo with 35oz of torque is fine for any 20 sized boat (ob's excluded of course). EJP no, dialectric grease will not stop all the water and you will have a dead servo on your hands. Use a radio box. As for how many layers of cloth that depends on how thick the stuff is and how well it is anchored to the hull. I like your idea if the pull start test. When it is strong enough not to flex, lay up another layer.
Adam

[TRIKDYA]

TRIKDYA, correct me if I am wrong but didn't that heatwave have a steerable outdrive? That would put a lot more strain on the servo than just a rudder on a properly set up boat.

I didnt use the outdrive setup it came with. I used a old Octura strut/rudder setup i had that came on a hydro hull i was given(switched to a flexshaft as well, instead of that solid thing it comes with).

[scorpien boats]

i use a 61oz of tourqe servo for my outboard LOL (everyone said i should at leased be over 100oz )(and it works fine)
i had a nice servo but they keep getting ruined because of the pathetic radiobox on my tunnel.... so i couldn't afford to keep buying them lol

but get a nice servo for that nice boat, my tunnel is pretty crapped up anyway, it needs new paint job and an new radio compartment. (it runs good tho) ******************(verygood)***************

[ejp]

Well, then maybe I'll order a servo or two and try to find some other little things I need. Thanks for all the help guys. I am also building my radio box and I am going to cover it with epoxy and silicone all the joints on the inside. I may also buy a micro servo depending on how much room I come out with. Thanks again.:D

Happy boating. :D

[ejp]

Heres the new radio box. So, How should I hold it down??? I need some way to hold it and but be able to take it out if I need to get to my water line or change my rudder placement.

[ejp]

Another. :D

[ejp]

Last one. Check out how I even have it tuck under. :cool: So what do you think??????????

[rc10gtisthebest]

Looks nice. Look at DD's Bandit http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=178242&page=5&pp=25

Go to about 113-115 (post #). Very good Idea.

-Todd

[ejp]

Yeah, I saw that. The only problem is that I can't do it like that. I may just go around it with som 1/4 inch wood and rubber band it down.

[ejp]

So, I am getting ready to bend my flexshaft. Any ideas on how to bend it???? What do I use????

[ejp]

Guess what. I got my flexshaft done and my radio box really close. I'll be running by weekend. ;) That is, if the lake wasn't froze. :D

[ejp]

Still got a little fiberglassing to do though. :D

[ejp]

A couple more. :)

[ejp]

Last one. What do you all think???? :confused:

[BoatDoc]

looks like you're doing real good so far. can't wait to see the action pics when you're all done.

[rc10gtisthebest]

^^Ditto.

[ejp]

Thanks for the advise guys. I am really injoying building this boat and hope it runs good. I set it in the tube tonight and it looks awsome one the water with all the things inside. I can't wait to run it. Thanks again. Hey, is there anywhere that I can get bigger pushrod seals then the ones from aeromarine. I would really like to have a little wider hole for my steering pushrod.(because it has to move it around so much)

[Doubledog]

I've hit this thread about a hundred times. Not much to say other than your work looks good & its a lot of fun seeing a build-up from start to finish. :)

[ejp]

Thanks DD. Can I run an octura 1740/3 blade? It is 40mm (1.57")x 1.7=2.669"
Would the pitch make it hall A$$?

[Watercadet]

Thanks DD. Can I run an octura 1740/3 blade? It is 40mm (1.57")x 1.7=2.669"
Would the pitch make it hall A$$?
The 17 seriec is not the right prop for cats. It is a high lifting prop. Yes it has more pitch but it is a completly different type of prop.
Adam

[ejp]

Ok. Thanks for clearing that up. So I should try a x640?

[ejp]

Oh yeah. Where should I put my pressure fitting? my pipe is two pieces put together. Should I put it one the side closest to the boat from the split or the the back of the boat???

[Watercadet]

I put the pressure tap at the widest part of the pipe on the header side as I can.
The X640 is the prop I wsa going to recomend in the begining.
Adam

[ejp]

Ok. So I am ready to go!!!!!!!!!!!! Too bad it just snowed here today.:( I will post some pics later tonight so everyone can see how she is set up.

[ejp]

Sorry for the late pix. :D

[ejp]

Another. :cool:

[ejp]

Only two more.

[ejp]

Last one. So what does everyone think????? :cool:

[Watercadet]

Some really great work you have done. When I was 14 (you are 14 right?) I didn't have that kind of patience or skill. Do you have a lid for that radio box? And those servo mounts, are the home made? If so they look great. The prop though, is that carbon or plastic or something? Not a bad way to try out props for a small investment, but when you find the right one, go to a metal prop.
Adam

[ejp]

Thats just the one from my Nitro hammer, which is a equivilent to a x440 and it is carbon. I am going to order a metal one for it some day also. I am going to order a x640 tonight or tomorrow along with a balancer. Well, now I am 15. The radio box lid is going to be a piece of plexy glass. The servo mounts are made of a piece of angle aluminum that I cut to shape.

[ejp]

So, I have an issue. I can buy a sharpened and balaced prop for 35.00. Or I can buy a prop for 12.99 and a balancer for 20.00. I have never had any experience with balancing and sharpening so I have no clue what to do. Would it be easier to just order the prop sharpened and balanced??

[Chris LaPanse]

That depends. For only one or two props, buy them pre-balanced. If you want several props, get the balaner and the unfinished ones. The one thing you can't do is get the unfinished props without balancing.

[Watercadet]

I have a balancer and it is a pain! It takes a long time but it is accurate and necessary. That said I would rather buy "done" props. I have some from Andy Brown and some from Props 4 u and both are worth the money. I still use the balancer for prop repairs and balancing other things like flywheels and stuff.
Adam

[Doubledog]

ejp, how long before you get it wet? Maybe I have something sharpened & balanced in the box that might work. Maybe........ (for a cheap price to help a young friend out) ;)

[Doubledog]

Okay, here's what I've got.......

Prather 225 w/slight cup

Octura X445 w/slight cup

Octura X445 stock

&

Octura X447 stock.


All are used, but after they get sharpened & balanced (not polished), you'll never know the difference.

Ask the guys here which one would work the best & you can have it for $10 shipped. This is a one time shot.

Please take it only if it will work for your boat.


Double ~ :)

[BoatDoc]

ejp...the hammer prop is not the equivelent of the x440! it's too little. it's actually only 30mm or so. i think you'd find that your boat probably won't even move with it on.

[Chris LaPanse]

His prop is an x440 equivalent - he has converted his to surface drive.

[BoatDoc]

ooops...i thought he was talking about the stock hammer prop!

[ejp]

Ok DD, the only one that I see would maybe work would be the prather 225. I looked on aeromarines site and they said a 220-225 for an inboard tunnel. I am running an o.s. so I don't know if it will have enough power, because they probably tested with a race engine. My books says a diameter of 40-44mm with a pitch/dia ratio of 1.0-1.6. So If anyone can help please do.

[Doubledog]

Guys, what do you think would work out of these props?

Just checked my charts also. (got 'em saved on Excel).

The 225 is a hair large on diameter, but the x445 is right in there (45 mm diameter w/ 1.4 factor). The 445 with a little cup is almost money as it'll help it out.

Thats the only props I've got in thats near those sizes & you're welcome to one for 10 bucks shipped. Sounds like a fair deal? If its too low let me know. :D

[ejp]

Is that balanced and sharpened?? I really wanted something with around a 1.6 pitch so I can get some good top speed. We'll just have to see what the guys think. Thanks DD. Oh and also my book is for the engine being in a dee vee so would I be able to push the 225???

[Doubledog]

The Prather is showing 46mm & 1.5 Factor. Its a little larger.

Come on guys. Drop a dime or two.

Yes, I'm going going to sharpen & balance the prop myself. All are used, but when you look at it, you'll never know the difference.

If either prop is too large or not enough.... I can cup & trim the diameter down.

Dang, why am I volunteering all this service. :o

[97TRAKIN]

I've been into R/C boats for a LONG time and this is a damn good rigging job you did! Real inovative.

[ejp]

Well, I think I'll go with the prather. Do you think that if it is too large in diameter I could send it back to you and you could cut it down a little bit. Also what does cuping it do?

[ejp]

Oh yeah, I and I will pay for shipping back to you and from you. With the cupped x445 does that creat more pitch???

[ejp]

O.k. Is it true that you can run a larger prop on a cat then a deep vee with the same engine?? I think I'll give the 225 a try. If it totally doesn't like it can I send it back?

[ejp]

well, I was told that both of the props will be too big. Sorry for all the trouble DD. I think I'll try running this carbon prop I have and see how she runs. Thanks though.

[Doubledog]

Dug out one more........

X442 w/some cup--- same for this prop. Used, but would get sharpened & balanced for you.

If it'll work, send me a PM with your mailing addy. It'll take a few days to get it worked for ya.

[ejp]

Ok. I'll do that tonight but I have to leave now.

[ejp]

Hey, DD, check your PM

[Chris LaPanse]

ejp - you're getting a heck of a deal there - I'm jealous. If someone'd do that for a p275 or an X475 or X470/3, I'd be jumping for joy (lol). Honestly, you are really lucky. Can't wait to see her run.

[ejp]

Thanks chris. I can't hardly wait either. I went by the lake the other day and most of it is nice and snow covered. there was a place that was probably big enough to run but I didn't want it to have a colision with the ice. I also didn't really want to have to go swimming. Now guess what, I am going to start building my "wild thing" again.

[Doubledog]

Eric, per our PM conversation, I'll get this in the mail to you on Monday, 8 Feb. It will take about a week from there to arrive. No rush on the check.;)

& Hope it works out.

[ejp]

Thanks DD. I will send that check out on monday so hopefully we'll recieve them at the same time. I really apreciate all your help and I owe you one for giving me such a good deal on the prop.

[Doubledog]

Just promise that if you sell it, you'll do so for the same price I gave you. :)

[ejp]

Well, last night was like another christmas for me. :D My dads friend gave me all his plane stuff.(What he had left.) I got a strarter with a motorcycle battery. A field kit, which has the speed charger for my rx and tx, a glow charger, electric fuel pump, tank for the fuel, and a battery for all that. I also got a mini tach (I don't know that it will work for a boat) A electric meter and a bunch of other things. 7 servos, servo extentions, and a bunch of connectors. I even got some servos from the 1970's.(I'll post a pic later) And the best part is, it was all free!!!! Well, not exactly, he wants me to work on his snowmobile for him, but that is not a big deal because I am pretty good at that. :D

[ejp]

Heres the pic of the servo. It is next to a modern day one.

[Doubledog]

Finished your prop today. Its been a while since I've worked one of these little boogers. :o You can see where its been cupped. Tried getting all the dings out, but was afraid it would make it too thin for sport running. For two meals at McDonalds, its a cheap deal. :)

Its going in the mail Monday & I hope it works out for you Dude.

[Doubledog]

One more.

Holler later.

[ejp]

Very nice. I can't wait to see it in the water. One week of the weather today and I'll be running. The neighbors little pond is getting really thin and there is a little water showing.(but it is too small to run)