Novak SS5800 brushless died on first test??!

[fs454]

Sorry for double posting this, i figured this is a better place for the post and i don't have the ability to move the original here..so....:

As you know from this topic: http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=185631 I have a new RC10B4 Factory Team with the SS5800 Brushless and an XR2i. Well, I set the car down on the ground with a fairly charged GP3300 pack(i had another one just peaking that i was going to run with when it was done). I drove it around for the first time, and after a minute of driving, it stops dead. The steering servo works, but the motor isn't moving.

Drivetrain isnt binding, the lights on the ESC are working, I tried another reciever of the same model, etc.

All the wires are plugged in, sometimes when i poke a wire or two it will glitch. Unplugging the throttle wire from the reciever and plugging it back in gets me a little glitch of the motor. Two different recievers do this.Also, sometimes the motor will work, but in VERY jerky cogging movements, and will only rotate back and forth, then the ESC does a thermal shutdown. The diode gets really hot also.

What the heck could have happened? There is lots of snow on the ground, but the streets are dry, maybe a little moist. There's also a little salt on the ground that they used to dry up the snow the night before.

Anyone got any suggestions?

[bob2300NX]

Only suggestion I could give you is contact Novak. I hear the costomer survice is really good. Souldnt take to long to get you back running since as you probally know Novak is in the USA.

[TheSteve]

Also, sometimes the motor will work, but in VERY jerky cogging movements, and will only rotate back and forth, then the ESC does a thermal shutdown. The diode gets really hot also.
Anyone got any suggestions?

OK I have to ask - what diode?
I can only assume you are refering to the power capacitor, it might get warm, but shouldn't get hot.

What kind of battery connections are you using?

[mac0326]

My first instinct says that a motor wire is not making a connection. The situation you describe (back and forth cogging) sounds like the motor is only getting 2 of the three phases. The sensorless react this way when a motor plug comes loose. Just a guess, but give it a look.

[mugenX5]

Check to see that the wires are soldered to the correct tabs ( a, b, and c) .

Make sure no wires are frayed or are hitting another wire.


What color lights are lit when the esc is on?


Try reprogramming the esc.

[kufman]

OK I have to ask - what diode?

Yes, what diode??

[fs454]

Yeah, the capacitor thing, not the diode.

It gets INSANELY hot after a minute or two of normal driving, the cogs like crazy until its back at room temp.

My LHS suggested moving down on the pinion from 23T to 19T. I have the 19T on there now and hope it will make a difference.

[Greg15]

Ok, I think you've geared it too high, when this happens it will heat the motor up so much that one of the wires will come off the motor. My past experience has seen the B wire come off.

[fs454]

Its wierd because the SS5800 manual recommends a 23t pinion for the B4 buggy stock drivetrain. I have a 19t there now, i'll try it tomorrow.

[kufman]

almost sounds like one of the sensor wires is not making good contact. I had that happen on my motor once. the green wire came loose on my controller and the car just kind of sat there and shuttered and didn't move. when you get this resolved, you willl probably want to replace the power cap. Extreme heating will kill them in a hurry. oh speaking of which, make sure that the cap is installed in the proper polarity. the one side of the cap will have a stripe down the side and that is usually the negative side. on my novak it is a goldish stripe with outlined "-" symbols. Look at all of you sensor wires comming from the motor and make sure they are all well seated in the connector on the controller. Even if you overgear, you will not get cogging with the novak system.

[crazy1]

23 tooth pinion is for the B3 . The internal gear ratio for the B4 is a lot differnt. I run a 20 tooth with no problems.

Did you remember to cut the cooling vents in the body? The B4's body dose a too good job of sealing the chassies for any cooling air flow to reach the heat sinks on the controler. I cut out what looks like a hood scoop on the body, A 3/4 " wide 1/4" long flap over the heat sinks, and a air exit hole on the back side edge of the body just above were it is above the chassies about the same size as the hood scoop on the body.

[XR Mugen]

I think there is something wrong with the motor itself. I would send it back to Novak. The 5800 system in my XXX-4 has always worked perfectly from the start and it has gotten pretty warm, especially in the summer.