DuraTrax 1/18 Scale Mini Quake EP Monster Truck RTR [Archive] - Page 2

Darkside

10-30-2004, 02:40 PM

Got mine as soon as they became availible. I was looking for something to play with during the winter. To run over the stuff in my house...shoes....cloths....sleeping kids!LOL

So far I've been very pleased with it. I haven't run into any of the drivetrain problems that others have. I don't see how this thing can go fast enough in reverse to do any damage. It seems to me that it only has about half power going in reverse. So it seems that someone would have to be trying something risky to break anything.

O'well......those are my thoughts on this beauty of a vehicle. Now I'm just waiting for the clear body to come into stock. :)

NMT_RACER_BOY

10-31-2004, 08:47 PM

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=34063&item=5931259221&rd=1&ssPageName=WDVW

look
an ARR version under a different company's name...
too bad it's in HK and shipping is expensive.

anyone know if duratrax will introduce the ARR into north america?

CooLJoE8

11-01-2004, 01:20 AM

Yup, that was noted on page 9 of this thread ;)

2.0dohc

11-01-2004, 10:54 AM

look whats on tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=dtxc2195&FVPROFIL=++
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=dtxc8348&FVPROFIL=++
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=++&FVSEARCH=dtxc8349&FVPROFIL=++
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=dtxc9035&FVPROFIL=++
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=dtxc9036&FVPROFIL=++
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=dtxc9869&FVPROFIL=++
and the one everbody wants
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=dtxc7407&FVPROFIL=++

htimsda

11-02-2004, 01:03 PM

look whats on tower
...
and the one everbody wants
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=dtxc7407&FVPROFIL=++

$50 to fix a faulty part is just crap. :mad: :mad: I'm not happy.

MaxxThrasher

11-02-2004, 01:42 PM

I don't believe the CVDs were intended to be a fix for a faulty part, but instead an option part or "hop-up" if you will.

Although it's not confirmed, I do believe they are working on a new material to make upgraded parts from which will be their "fix".

The truck has only been on the market for a few weeks and already they have sold many. It's a very popular truck and for good reason. Despite the problem, it's still a very good RTR vehicle at a fair price.

I'm thinking they will have this problem taken care of in short time.

CooLJoE8

11-02-2004, 06:08 PM

MaxxThrasher is right. The CVDs are NOT a "fix" for the outdrives. They are a hop-up that were planned before the truck was released.

DTX does watch many of the messageboards and sees the problems people are having. I also have given them a link to this thread so they know exactly what parts are an issue.

So don't worry, something is likely in the works to fix the problem. DTX wants the MQ to succeed.

htimsda

11-02-2004, 09:10 PM

JohnnyShore

11-02-2004, 10:07 PM

For those who have broken outdrives, which one broke, the one connected to the can part of the diff, or the one connected to the large gear plate? On both my front and rear, the one connected to the can broke. I am currently trying to move the surviving one from the front to replace the broken on in the back, so I can at least run it a bit more before it breaks again ;) . I'm having a heck of a time assembling the outdrive to the gear in the can. Any tips?

I did the swap from the front to the rear just to get it running like you're doing. Took me about 25 minutes, and I set the truck down, went up and down the hallway about 3 times before it broke again. With only RWD, it's probably just too much stress for the axles to hold up. I'm running GP1100's and a 13 tooth pinion, so that probably doesn't help either. With a 13 tooth pinion, it'll pop a wheelie pretty easy (at least until it breaks) :rolleyes:

It takes a little pressure to get the outdrive to "snap" back into the diff after reassembly.

MaxxThrasher

11-03-2004, 09:29 AM

On my MQ the 1st drive to go was the Left Rear. Once I fixed that it was only seconds before the RR broke. I fixed that one then 2 runs up and down the driveway the Left Front broke, then the Right. So basicly, doesn't matter which drive breaks first, they're all going to break. At least more then likely. There are a handful of people who say their drives are holding up.

As far as assembly, there is a slight lip at the very end of the flats on the outdrive. This lip makes it hard for the flat part to slide in and out of the Bevel Gear. It's made that way so the drive doesn't come out of the Bevel Gear while driving. It's there to hold it into place. You'll just have to be careful and push hard to snap it into the gear. Maybe if you wiggle it slightly it will slide in easier.

JDAWG53

11-03-2004, 10:04 AM

MaxxThrasher

11-03-2004, 10:09 AM

Not jumping, haven't jumped it yet. Not crashing, although I've crashed it quite a bit and it is tough. The 1st time one broke I had just put in a fresh battery(URC X23 GP1100) I made a run down the driveway, turned, made a run back to me, turned, made a run back down the drive, turned then only have FWD. The LR drive twisted off at the flats. All the other drives broke in similar ways, just coming out of a turn.

htimsda

11-03-2004, 10:55 AM

If some people have no problems, it may have been a bad batch of plastic. I'm not too hopeful though. Has anyone recieved replacement parts and found them to be tougher?

JDAWG53

11-03-2004, 12:39 PM

Replacement parts are not in stock yet. Should be available in a week or so.

Maxx
What type of surface were you running on? Concrete, asphalt?

MaxxThrasher

11-03-2004, 01:07 PM

Both, with some loose sand and fine gravel here and there.

CooLJoE8

11-03-2004, 10:29 PM

Like I said, I think some people got a bad batch of parts on their quake or something like that.

I drove mine on a track for 2 full battery runs. I was doing full speed runs, sharp turns, and large jumps (and crashed on a couple jumps). Didn't break anything on my MQ.

BTW, here are 2 I'm sure people want to see (including the CVDs). These were found on TowerHobbies by a member on MiniOffroaders.com

I like the CVDs being blue and completely aluminum. And I didn't realize that the outdrives snapped into the differential until just the other night (I took apart the truck to check things out). I was previously worried about the outdrives just resting inside the diff, but since they snap in I have no worries.

Good job Duratrax http://specialed.no-ip.com/mi-rc/e107_images/emoticons/thumb.gif

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/dtxmq-hopup-cvds.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/dtxmq-hopup-chromewheels.jpg

bullaculla

11-03-2004, 11:58 PM

MaxxThrasher
Your axles broke just running in your drive way? Jumping, crashing???
I can go full speed reverse and rip it forward and they dont break. I am doing it on carpet, so the traction is high. Just trying to get a feel for how these are breaking.

Give it some time. I really abused mine in the living room, but when they broke, I was doing pretty minor stuff. I twisted three already. There is a lot of flexing going on between the diff and the wheel. It will fatigue. I'm not even going to bother replacing them with the stock drives, I just backordered 2 pairs of CVD,s at towers.

bullaculla

11-03-2004, 11:59 PM

look whats on tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=dtxc2195&FVPROFIL=++and the one everbody wants
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVSEARCH=dtxc7407&FVPROFIL=++

Nice find 2.0!!! I'm glad they finally put pics up! :D
I've been checking for pics nearly everyday!

bullaculla

11-04-2004, 12:02 AM

MaxxThrasher

11-04-2004, 12:46 PM

The CVDs look great! Not to mention the chrome wheels. That's the route I'm going.
I'm sure the rest of their options parts are going to be killer.

CooLJoE8

11-04-2004, 06:13 PM

Yeah, I haven't preordered the chromes yet, but I have the CVDs on preorder.

I'll probably order the chromes in December, along with tires of course.

bullaculla

11-06-2004, 05:07 AM

Posted this at one18th
IN STOCK!
What we all need, but not what we really want...
DRIVE SHAFT SET (completed with OUTDRIVES) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAD9&P=7)

DIFF GEAR SET (also with outdrives) (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAD3&P=7)

CLEAR BODY (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAG7&P=7)

BELLCRANK POST SET (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJAE9&P=7)
:cool:

bullaculla

11-06-2004, 05:12 AM

CooLJoE8

11-06-2004, 12:14 PM

don't tell me you've gone through diff gears and bellcrank posts

I may order diff gears just incase though.

bullaculla

11-07-2004, 05:21 AM

don't tell me you've gone through diff gears and bellcrank posts

I may order diff gears just incase though.

No.
Im buying the diff gear set just cause it comes with the outdrives. and the gear diff might not last too long, so just in case. I posted a pic of my order form at tower:D
Just waiting for parts.

CooLJoE8

11-07-2004, 09:58 PM

Ahh, makes sense.

I finally got a chance to run my Mamba 8000kv in my MQ and on the ground. Battery wasn't fully charged, but I did do a couple runs on carpet. Nothing broke, which is good. Hopefully nothing breaks or if it does, hopefully the outdrives don't break til close to the release of the aluminum CVDs.

RespirologyRC

11-08-2004, 12:06 PM

I just bought my MQ and am pisssed!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I too broke my outdrives. I can't believe that I bought a 180.00 toy (this is definetly not quality)! Now if I want I can spend another 50.00$ plus shipping and buy aluminum ones! I must be nuts. I don't mind spending money on a brushless system or even alum parts that I don't really need but when I buy something and it breaks in 2 min. I get angry!! I returned it today to the hobby shop and demanded my money back! I guess I'll wait for someone to hook theirs up then sell it on ebay.

CooLJoE8

11-09-2004, 02:41 AM

Bad luck. Not everyone gets an MQ with bum outdrives.

Your loss though for returning it. The rest of us are sticking it out and enjoying the truck. The stock replacement outdrives are available on tower now as well. You could have just asked your LHS to replace the broken ones. Maybe they would have given you free replacements for the hassle.

bullaculla

11-09-2004, 02:44 AM

:werd:^
wouldn't you rather just hook it up yourself instead of buying a used one off E-bay?

zakerid

11-09-2004, 06:20 AM

RespirologyRC-Check out the RC18T. I am wishing I waited for the truck instead of getting the mini-quake. I have an email out to duratrax we will see how tey respond.

DTXalltheway

11-10-2004, 08:46 PM

What is with Tower Hobbies? The stock status for the MQ was mid November now it has changed to late November. Is it becuz of the problem with outdrives breaking or the ESC?

RespirologyRC

11-11-2004, 10:38 AM

probably?! I like the layout of the vehicle and do want one but will wait till the remidy the problem. I just can't stand buying something that is half/assed

DTXalltheway

11-11-2004, 05:01 PM

That makes sense. I cant wait till they get it solved! I want one bad. I love my Max MT but want something electric. And this thing sounds awsome.

Maxx_A_Million

11-14-2004, 03:22 AM

hmm... here i was thinking i was one only one talking about this truck and i was in the MT section... thx bullaculla...

not much to be said anymore... but i do ahve an idea to adapt mini T wheels/tires. . .

get some miniT wheels... get some miniQ wheels. . . cut the center out fo the miniQ wheels... trim the center section (this si the part the screw goes into and the part that goes all the way back into the hub) so itll fit snug against the miniT wheels... get some 5 minues epoxy... find a washer of a size so tis inner diameter is smaller than that of the miniQ wheels screws, and outer diamerer is as big as the flat portion of the miniT wheels. put your washer on the Q wheels screw. take your epoxy, mix up a little bit, slap it on the Q wheel's center section, put the wheel screw through the mini T wheel, andtighten the mini T wheel against the mini Q center section. let it sit for about 15 minutes (cant be too careful). repeat 3 more times. test it out. . . let us know how it works. . .

i know the trilordy guys epoxied mini giant wheelnuts to some touring car wheels and ti held up to a brushless and 2 lipos for about 45 minutes of total runtime... that was metal to plastic... if we try plastic to plastic it may just be a halfway raliable way to covnvert to miniT wheels until duratrax comes wout with their conversion kit...

somebody let me know...
btw, all who ahve been so informitive, please continue to be so...

first perons with the CVDs has a responsibility to beat the crap out of them and report back to us. . .

will the diffs be the next weak link? or is everything else strong and only those shafts really the weak link?

oh, one more thing. . .

for those withing to make 7+ cell batts. . .
dont worry about making them hump packs. . .
take your GP1100s, make 6 cell stick packs, then take and place an additional cell or two on top of and to the side of your existing rows of batteries. liek the 7 cell emaxx batteries people made... err... like these ones (http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10201.15) all ya gotta do is cut out the innersection of the barrery tie-down and youll still have good tie-down and get your extra 1.2 or 2.4 volts . .

edit:
... since i already spamming a little. . . si this a good deal on gp1100s? individual 1100s (http://www.onlybatterypacks.com/showitem.asp?ItemID=10213.21) i knwo theyll fit... diameter and 28 long i beleive. . . all but perfect. . . there are what yall have been tlaking about... right?
if thats nto a good deal, where cna i find a better one? are the duratrax packs these cells?

thanks again

bullaculla

11-14-2004, 02:24 PM

someone said DTX is working on wheel adapters, but you know how that goes.
:)

Maxx_A_Million

11-14-2004, 10:09 PM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUJ5&P=7

so i see a great deal on lotsa MQ battery packs?

bullaculla

11-15-2004, 03:27 AM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHUJ5&P=7

so i see a great deal on lotsa MQ battery packs?

You really want to make your own pack? Someone told me its kind of hard to solder these things end to end. I'd rather buy packs.
http://teamhelotes.com/~main/catalog/i70.html
http://www.unitedrc.com/store/product.asp?ID=143
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJKV2&P=7
or cheap battery pack.com or something. just make sure the wires come out the center, and no end caps.

CooLJoE8

11-15-2004, 03:31 AM

someone said DTX is working on wheel adapters, but you know how that goes.
:)

I said it. And I heard it from Duratrax themselves. Infact I quoted an email from them about that part somewhere in this thread. http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showpost.php?p=1589010&postcount=194

If that doesn't do it for you, I don't know what will. Besides....no offense but...what does "you know how that goes" mean? Duratrax may have been known for crappy R/Cs in the past, but I've never known them for announcing something and then not delivering.

Sorry if I sounded mean, not trying to. I just don't want people getting a bad impression from DTX when its not warranted. People broke outdrives, DTX listened, and now they are apparently working on a fix (I believe someone on another board -one18th I think- was told about this by Duratrax). People were a little disappointed about the Mini-T wheel compatibility (when really it will only help if you use the Trinity tires/wheels, otherwise they will look super small) and DTX said they are making a wheel adapter. Don't worry, they will come through for us.

Maxx A Million - Yes, the GP1100's fit. I have a 6-cell pack made using them in my MQ already. However, I don't suggest the extra 2-cell idea like you mentioned. Those 2 cells will be sticking out the side of the truck, which isn't a good thing. Best bet is to keep the cells inside the chassis area (above is fine, but not below or to the sides).

bullaculla

11-15-2004, 05:31 AM

I just meant its going to be awhile, like all the other hop ups.
Like I said on another forum, this is my first duratrax product, and even though I managed to break a total of 5 outdrives and have given up on the stockers, I still am impressed with this little truck. I think it’s a great value and I don’t know why other people are so prejudice towards duratrax.
:)

MaxxThrasher

11-15-2004, 11:15 AM

this is my first duratrax product, and even though I managed to break a total of 5 outdrives and have given up on the stockers, I still am impressed with this little truck. I think it’s a great value and I don’t know why other people are so prejudice towards duratrax.
:)
I 2nd that. Although this isn't my first DTX product it is my 1st DTX vehicle. The first product I bought was a fuel bottle ( more then 3 yrs ago ) which is the only bottle I've owned and still use today. I've gone through a few Nitro vehicles, but still use the same ol' bottle. Also I have some aluminum skid plates on my T-Maxx which is about the only thing that holds it together. When I bought the Mini-T I needed a charger so I got the Piranha and I haven't had a lick of problems.
I've heard nothing but good things about their Evader, but stadium trucks just aren't my thing.
Aside from the outdrive problem that I've had, I haven't had any other problems at all. The truck is wonderful. Great electronics, great price, great package, comes with everything and it's fast right out of the box.

NitroBoy24

11-15-2004, 05:02 PM

Well, I was thinking about breaking down and buying a MQ but decided I'd be better of waiting for Christmas to roll around. Then hopefully the next shipment that tower gets wont have bad outdrives, either way I put the aluminum CVD's in my shopping cart on Tower just to be safe :cool: Not to mention I have plans to immediately put it on Mamba slash lipoly power so the stockers would have to go anyways.

My mod plans include:
-6800KV Mamba package
-Aluminum CVD's
-Mini-t wheel adapters (when they come out, hopefully SOON!) that way I can put Losi's paddle tires on it (they'll be too small but perfect for sand trap bashing)
-Apache S2500 charger and whatever Lipoly pack I decide to get
-?

Man I hope 3Racing and the other mini aftermarket companies get a jump on making MQ parts, 3Racing has some awesome parts for the mini-t (gotta love that carbon fiber and red aluminum!). Some aluminum knuckles would be nice..

Back to researching every MQ forum known to man :D

bullaculla

11-16-2004, 03:36 AM

New hop ups!:D
early dec:(

Duratrax.com (http://www.duratrax.com/cars/dtxd11e.html)

holeshotkid

11-18-2004, 05:53 PM

do you guys know of anywhere that has the m/q in stock?

FLYBOY7

11-19-2004, 09:44 AM

MaxxThrasher

11-19-2004, 11:39 AM

It is frustrating to say the least.

From what I've been reading, Duratrax has been working hard to correct the situation in more ways then one. Option parts are already coming out, their working on a new material to replace the stock drives and if you contact their car support they will promptly send you replacements until the new drives are ready and then they will send those to you also.

It bugs me much that in the RC industry, and I know it happens in other industries also, but seems to be more prominent in the RC industry, that manufactuers continue to put out products that are flawed. It's become a known fact that when a new kit is released, it will have problems. It's so common that it's expected and people accept it! That's crazy!

This is the first vehicle that I took the plunge on and bought right away knowing that the possibility was high that it could have problems. Most the time I will wait. I did so in this case because of a few factors. I knew that if something went wrong, I have the capability to fix it. I felt that it was a great value at $167 shipped complete with everything needed to run right out of the box, it has high grade electronics and it's a one of a kind at the moment, not another one like it 1/18 scale 4WD shaft driven monster truck.
Even though I have also twisted all of my outdrives in half, which I have fixed, I still feel this is an awesome truck and I am still very satisfied with my purchase. I only wish that Duratrax, and other companies, took measures to insure such things never happen.

CooLJoE8

11-19-2004, 12:46 PM

i've had my Mini-Quake for about a week now...

broke two driveshafts after about 3 battery packs running around in my living room.... i was running just stock power (both batt and motor)... and i certainly wasn't even driving it hard... now the thing won't even move... makes a nice $180 paperweight while i'm waiting for replacement parts...

they better get those Freak'n metal drive shafts out there SOON....

Did you brake the actual driveshafts or the outdrives (part that links the driveshafts to the diffs. these have a notch on the end and snap into the diff). This is important to know since not many (if any aside from you) have broken driveshafts, but about 50% of the MQ owners have broken outdrives.

holeshotkid

11-19-2004, 05:57 PM

maxxthrasher, where did you det your MQ?

MaxxThrasher

11-19-2004, 06:04 PM

I snagged one from the first shipment Tower had.

FLYBOY7

11-20-2004, 12:08 PM

CoolJoe.... i broke part #44... where the driveshafts "snap" into the diff...

CooLJoE8

11-21-2004, 01:28 AM

CoolJoe.... i broke part #44... where the driveshafts "snap" into the diff...

Thats not the driveshaft. Thats the outdrive. The driveshafts are parts #37 and #38.

#36 is the ball pins and #35 is the wheel axle (although its really half an axle since the wheel itself acts as part of the axle).

FLYBOY7

11-22-2004, 10:24 AM

CooLJoE8

11-22-2004, 06:49 PM

CoolJoe.... i gave the EXACT part number of what broke... why ya gotta whine like a school girl about the name?? btw... post a picture of your pinion spur combo when you mounted up your mamba motor.....

Ok first off, acting like a jackass will not get you anywhere.

You only mentioned earlier that you broke the driveshafts...NO mention of part number. I asked if you were sure it was the driveshafts. You then posted that it was part #44 where the driveshafts snap into the diffs. No mention of part name with that number. So I clarified that #44 was the outdrive (not driveshaft like you mentioned in the first post) and that #37 and #38 were the driveshafts. I see no whining (like a school girl), nor do I see a problem with mentioning what each part is.

Now I love coming here and posting information and help about the MQ, but if you are going to be a jackass to me about helping you, then you can forget it (the rest of you are ok). Your comment was uncalled for.

And perhaps I am jumping the gun with this post, but it disappoints me to see that we all got along quite well and had good posting for the last 13 pages until this post by FLYBOY7. :(

FLYBOY7

11-24-2004, 09:59 AM

NitroBoy24

11-24-2004, 05:11 PM

temper temper "Cool" joe.. LOL....

anywhos.. you said you ran the mamba in your MQ... post a pic of it then.. some of us here are real rc'ers, not internet smack talkers/whiners... post a pic of it (clear enough to see your pinion spur combo), or be a poser... your choice...

Cooljoe is right, you are a Jackass.

Go to www.minioffroaders.com and then to the MQ thread and find Cooljoes thread and you'll see his pictures of the mamba. And he wrapped the motor shaft with a layer of scotch tape (like everyone else with mambas is doing) to get the pinion to fit.

He put up and now it's time for you to shut up.

NitroBoy24

11-24-2004, 05:15 PM

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=39953&page=3&pp=15

There's the thread in which you will find photo's of his Mamba.

Now have a nice day.

studysession

11-24-2004, 05:15 PM

Anyone I know with a mamba and I have one myself. I never heard anyone put scotch tape on it to get the pinions to fit. Most people buy the metal pinions with a set screw to put on.

studysession

11-24-2004, 05:17 PM

Those pics are nice - How does it hold up. I thought everyone was having trouble with them breaking easily.

NitroBoy24

11-24-2004, 05:32 PM

As far as I know CooLJoe hasn't broken them yet but that's because he said he wants to take it easy until tower gets the aluminum cvd's in stock. If you plan on upgrading the engine, especially to the Mamba you will have to break down and buy the CVD's. Howerver, Duratrax is making the the outdrives out of a stronger plastic last I heard. Someone emailed them that had broken outdrives and Duratrax sent them a couple more for free and said they'd give them the upgraded version when they come up. They've definitely got top notch customer service.

And study session, what brand pinion are using? From everything I've heard the only pinions that fit the Mamba shaft dont have the right pitch to mesh with the duratrax spur gear :confused:

studysession

11-24-2004, 07:20 PM

Funny - the gears are 48p - so use 48p pinions. Get Trinities metal pinions. They work great. Use them on my Mamba 8000. I bought them from RCBoyz.com

NitroBoy24

11-24-2004, 09:28 PM

Funny - the gears are 48p - so use 48p pinions. Get Trinities metal pinions. They work great. Use them on my Mamba 8000. I bought them from RCBoyz.com

Huh! I'd have figured someone would have picked that up by now, I go to minioffroaders and on18th.com's message boards and hadn't heard that yet. Thanks for the info! I'll have to order one of those up. Also, did you grind a flat spot on your motor shaft like the 540 motors have? I know a few people have done that..

ChumsGum

11-25-2004, 12:45 PM

UltimateHobbies.com is having a one day Thanksgiving day sale on the Mini Quake, only $139 with free shipping. Get them while they're still in stock, I bought 2.

NitroBoy24

11-25-2004, 02:36 PM

Woohoo!! Just ordered the Mini-Quake for part of Christmas present. Gonna be a long wait till the 25th.

NitroBoy24

11-25-2004, 08:44 PM

Cant wait until Christmas now!!! Thanks for spotting the Thanksgiving sale chumsgums!! $140 with $0 shipping, gotta love it!!

Now I just need a Mamba, Aluminum CVD's, 2 battery packs, and a Proline body!!

For once I said I was going to get a Micro and followed through!! You just have to love Thanksgiving Day only sales!!!

docman2

11-25-2004, 11:30 PM

Yeah I saw that sale as well. Kind of figured I would get one eventually but I couldnt pass up that deal and had to order it.

CooLJoE8

11-26-2004, 05:56 PM

Funny - the gears are 48p - so use 48p pinions. Get Trinities metal pinions. They work great. Use them on my Mamba 8000. I bought them from RCBoyz.com

Hmmm, your the first one that has found that to work. Must be a special MiniQuake j/k :p

Ive actually tried micro pinions against the MQ spur and found them to be incompatible. The MQ gearing uses a metric 48 pitch, whereas the micros use a non-metric pitch....not sure what size though. My regular 48-pitch pinions (made for 540 motors) were able to mesh with the MQ spur better than my micro pinions, but even those 48-pitch pinions weren't working perfectly.

And just for note, the micro pinions I tried were the ones that came with the Xray M18 and some aluminum GPM pinions I bought for the Mini-T. None of them worked.

The "layer-of-tape" method works fine for me right now. But the new issue is of the mamba cogging in the MQ. Its looking like its a gearing problem. The drive ratio of the MQ is like 6.325:1 (before the large tires), which is rather low considering the Mini-T is like 10.65:1. And the closest I could get it was when using 13T MQ pinion and 46T MQ spur, which brought it up to about 8.9:1 ratio. I've brought this up with Shawn Palmer from Castle over on MiniOffroaders, so we'll see what he says. I did more testing on this to narrow it down to a gearing/torque issue, but I don't want to repost all of it again. Instead here is a link to the thread on MiniOffroaders.

http://www.ultimaterc.com/forums/showthread.php?t=41852

FLYBOY7 - Whatever. You are more of the smack talker considering you were the first to call me names and now are telling me to put up or be called a poser. How about you walk out of this thread with whatever dignity you have left. The people here know who I am and how much dedication I've put into the MQ, which is worlds more than you have. See I come to these boards to help people, not to smack talk and call people names, which seems to be your fancy.

Not to mention I co-founded and help run an R/C club here in Michigan (http://www.michigan-rc.com) and am a member on 7+ other R/C message boards which I visit daily (MaxxTraxx long time member, one18th, Ultimate R/C which includes MiniOffroaders, RCPimp, Michigan R/C, YourMicro, TinyRC, Savage Central, etc). Oh and don't forget my 16+ years of R/C experience which covers more than 20 completely different R/C cars/truck/helicopters/boats/planes (started at like age 8). I still own a bunch of R/Cs including a TXT-1, original RC10T Team truck, RS4 Sport (first version), Savage with .26 Ofna, highly modded Mini-T, MiniQuake with mamba 8000kv, Xray M18, and a Tamiya Super Champ from around 1984 (some of our older members will remember this one).

So how about you....if you are so much more of a "real" R/Cer, whats your background? What R/C clubs do you run? How many completely different R/Cs have you owned? What messageboards do you help out on?

Sheesh. Anyways, back to more MiniQuake talk. We're all here because we love the MiniQuake, not because we like jumping all over other members. If you want to contribute, do so, but leave the kids games for private messages or another site altogether.

ChumsGum

11-26-2004, 09:01 PM

Thank gawd I pulled the trigger and bought my MQ from Ultimate Hobbies, I was waiting for Tower to come through but the new release date is early December.

NitroBoy24

11-27-2004, 12:15 AM

Thank gawd I pulled the trigger and bought my MQ from Ultimate Hobbies, I was waiting for Tower to come through but the new release date is early December.

Yeah I noticed that today also. And you can't beat that $140 dollar price tag!

CooLJoE8

11-27-2004, 03:46 AM

Yeah, that is an awesome price. Should have pulled in a couple more MQ'ers.

FLYBOY7

11-30-2004, 11:24 AM

NitroBoy24

11-30-2004, 08:38 PM

scotch tape to get the pinion to fit?? no wonder you don't break any driveshafts/outdrives... how much power can you put to the ground on scotch tape??? LOL...

and nitro boy, temper temper for you as well...

temperjoe... man.. you spend wayyyyyy too much time on the internet... it's not an accomplishment to say you are on a dozen message boards... real rc'ers are working on their trucks, out actually driving them, or working their rear ends off paying for it all... i find time a couple times a week to check out one board (when i'm lucky)... so it really torks me when some internet couch potatoe is telling people how things "really" are, and randomly throw out JACKASS to anyone who dare give him some trouble... that's realllyyyyy wasting my time... i wanna know how to fix things the right way (not the scotch tape way) from people who know first hand from driving, not from internet speculation...

Sorry if we're wasting your time, so I've got an idea. Step away from the computer, yep, quit typing. Just walk away. So, instead of wasting your time here, you can go outside and run your r/c cars!

And I'm a couch potatoe for posting on the internet eh? Heh, guess I'm one of the few "couch potatoes" that's been running over 4 miles a day since August for cross country and moutain bikes atleast 2 hours every other day.

And cooljoe is one of those internet speculaters too right? Well, that is funny because he happens to own a Mamba powered Mini-Quake, but he obviously has no 1st hand experience working with the truck.

Since all of us know nothing then go out and machine us a pinion that will fit on a 2mm shaft and is metric with 48 pitch seeing as there are very few known pinions that are metal, and meet these specs. Then, the whole wrapping the shaft in tape method will be in the past, and all those running Mamba powered Mini-Quakes will praise you like some sort of RC God.

Good luck and have fun on your journey,
-John.

MORTER MAN

11-30-2004, 08:44 PM

Hey FLYBOY, just wondering if you noticed yet that no one likes you here, Ok just checking.

Milesdavis314

11-30-2004, 08:59 PM

I second that.

CooLJoE8

12-01-2004, 03:19 AM

CooLJoE8

12-02-2004, 04:14 PM

More news on the Duratrax Mini-T wheel adapters!

Tower has a listing for them here (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=DTXC7521+&FVPROFIL=++&search3=Go). They are $4.50/pair. You will need 2 pairs for an entire vehicle ($9.00 total).

They are made of 6061 T6 aluminum and are blue anodized. Duratrax has tested them with the Trinity Monster Mini-T wheels/tires with success. Here is the CAD picture of the adapters:

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/dtxmq-hopup-minitwheeladapters.jpg

NitroBoy24

12-02-2004, 05:23 PM

Too bad about the expected Late January release of them :o And everything with the MQ has come out later then expected so who knows..Atleast they have a lot of time to bump the release date backwards instead of forwards.

CooLJoE8

12-02-2004, 11:37 PM

Yeah, January is another month away, but you have to give them credit. They made those parts because us, the customers, requested it back in late October, and now they have a CAD drawing (likely in testing phase) and a listing on Tower. Hows that for customer service. I can't recall the last time Losi, AE, HPI, or another bigdog company has manufactured a custom part due to customer request. Heck I don't recall that ever happening by those companies. Go Duratrax!

ChumsGum

12-02-2004, 11:59 PM

Now I can get those new Trinity Mini-T spinners on my new Mini Quake.

bullaculla

12-03-2004, 03:10 AM

CVDs got pushed back too:(

CooLJoE8

12-04-2004, 03:33 AM

Here's a mini-review of the optional springs that Duratrax offers for the MiniQuake. Not much to them, hence why its a mini-review.

The springs out of the package, look really good. Nice finish, no chips, and the colors are nice; yellows are bright and the silvers are a good silver color, but dark enough that they stand out against the stock whites.

Each color of spring represents a weight/stiffness for tuning purposes. The silvers are soft, the whites are medium (stock springs), and the yellows are hard. Holding each spring and compressing them, you can easily tell what weight/stiffness is for them. This is nice because you'll have different enough rates that you can estimate what springs to use for each application (offroad track racing, street cruising, backyard bashing, etc). Of course you can also use a combination of springs to get a more tuned setting.

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-springs-all.jpg

Here's the setup I'm using (I tested with this and a couple others). The yellows on the rear help give it a bit more spring when leaving the jumps and the front yellows lessened the truck from leaning in the corners. Sway bars would fix the corner rolling as well, but this works until sway bars are made (hint hint Duratrax). All silvers gave the truck a low stance and helped it soak up bumps a bit better, but without sway bars it wasn't as good in the turns and big jumps proved too much when it landed and bottomed out really fast. I'd say for racing, to use whites on the outer shocks, with silvers on the inner shocks.

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-springs-installed.jpg

Stay tuned for more reviews in the future :)

kurrz

12-04-2004, 06:46 PM

hey guys just found this thread got a mini quake yesterday i love it but i already want it faster any motor upgrade out there that the stock esc will handle thanks

CooLJoE8

12-05-2004, 01:08 AM

There aren't any specifically designed for the MQ or say they will work with that ESC, but you can always try 400 size motors.

bullaculla

12-05-2004, 03:21 AM

What about the beast raptor i've read so much about on one18th?
would that fit, or is it too small?
even if I need a new ESC. I'm just not ready to spend much money on a BL system.

CooLJoE8

12-05-2004, 04:36 AM

I think you would need an adapter to run one of the Beast motors.

Problem is the stock motor is a 380 size, and the Beast motors are 300 and 280 size (Raptor is 300, Pirahna is 280). So its more of a downgrade to go to those motors. Don't get me wrong, they are great motors, but are best suited as upgrades for the Mini-T/RC18T since those start off with low end 280 motors.

Some people are finding that they can get more out of the stock motor by just advancing the timing. Its not an easy task, but it will enhance the performance. Here's a howto for the Speed300 motors, but will also work for the MQ 380 motor:

http://www.one18th.com/articles/speed300prep.php

BTW, when you look for 400 size motors, find ones that are meant to run on a lower voltage. Why? Because if its meant to run at say 4.8v, imagine what it will do on 7.2v. If you get one that is meant to run 6.0v, it won't have as much for gains running at 7.2v since its only 1.2v more.

Example: If the motors do 15,000 RPM; 1 at 4.8v and 1 at 6.0v. Using basic math that would mean the 4.8v motor does 3,125 RPMs per 1v, and the 6.0v motor does 2,500 RPMs per 1v. So taking that in mind and applying both at 7.2v; you get the 4.8v motor @ 7.2v doing 22,500 RPMs, and the 6.0v motor @ 7.2v doing 18,000 RPMs. The 4.8v motor does an extra 4,500 RPMs at the same voltage.

kurrz

12-05-2004, 08:03 AM

thanks guys but i have to return my mini quake to my lhs the truck runs faster in reverse than going forward ive tried everything its also very glitchy must be bad esc that sux paid more at my lhs so i could buy it and run it now. it will probable need to be sent to duratrax who knows how long that will take also cooljoe keep up the good work i read all 14 pages of this thread last night very informative ill check back regularly thanks again for the replies

ChumsGum

12-05-2004, 11:38 AM

Duratrax will release an updated motor soon, they're releasing everything else for the Mini Quake.

CooLJoE8

12-05-2004, 03:48 PM

Kurrz, try this:

Make sure you have the controllers TH TRIM set to the middle (if you are unsure of what is middle, rotate it both ways to the limits and that should help you find where center is). On mine, center is when the notch is pointing directly at the label that says TH TRIM.

1) leave the controller alone so that the trigger and wheel are centered and then turn on the ESC
2) press set button on the ESC and hold til the lights blink
3) push set again and green led should be flashing alone. pull trigger to full throttle and, while holding full throttle, press set button.
4) red led should be flashing alone. push trigger to full reverse and hold it there while pressing set button.

After that both LEDs should be on solid (no flashing). And with that you are done programming.

Its the same help I've given others in this situation and it has fixed their problems. Although I copied this from someone else who posted it because its what I told them to do. Sadly, I can't find where I originally posted it.

bullaculla

12-05-2004, 06:22 PM

:D
just make sure its on a stand or something with the wheels off the ground.
I broke an outdrive after the first time I tried to reprogram the ESC, it took off in full speed reverse into a wall.:(

CooLJoE8

12-05-2004, 09:50 PM

Doh!

Yeah, do this with the wheels off the ground.

kurrz

12-06-2004, 04:36 PM

thanks guys actually cooljoe i found those directions posted by you on one18th when i first got it because the directions that came with it suck i tried this method multple times and it didnt work and the guy at my lhs says he did too its on its way to duratrax now thanks again but please keep the tips coming and btw flyboy is an ass

NitroBoy24

12-06-2004, 08:13 PM

Yeah, when I repogrammed my esc I was afraid that it would be going WOT the entire time (since that is what it was doing normally) but once I hit the set button the wheels stopped turning :cool: That made it tons easier to make sure I programmed it correctly. Everything works great right now! I just need to buy some GP1100 packs since the stock pack is junk. Luckily Christmas is coming soon so I wont have a very long wait :)

Now someone needs to make low tooth pinions that fit the Mambas 2mm shaft and have a 48 (metric) pitch so I can run a BL setup with hopefully no cogging!

CooLJoE8

12-07-2004, 03:12 AM

NitroBoy - If you haven't gotten a mamba yet......don't.

Shawn from Castle already confirmed its a no go in the MQ because of the gearing. And since no one has proper gearing to fix this, it will be some time before something is made.

Best bet is to see what a couple of the guys are testing out for brushless in the MiniQuake. Shawn from Castle is going to test out the SP400 model Castle brushless motors, and StarluckR/C is testing out some Feigao brushless motors.

I myself will likely be buying a Himax 2025 5300kv tomorrow and will hopefully get it by the weekend so I can test it out. The 2025 is rated to replace 300, 380, and 400 size motors (the MQ is a 380 motor stock), so the torque should be enough to push the MQ....and best of all it has a 2.3mm motor shaft, so the MQ pinions will work.

studysession

12-07-2004, 03:09 PM

Get the metal pinions from Trinity. The MQ is supposed to be using 48p gearing.

2.0dohc

12-07-2004, 04:00 PM

the MQ uses 48P METRIC, you can not use 48p standard as a replacment

DTXalltheway

12-07-2004, 05:11 PM

Tower Hobbies has put the stock date to Mid December now!! I am thinking of ordering for Ultimate Hobbies. Can anyone tell me what the real cost is from Ultimate Hobbies? They show the retail price or what they call the MAP price and call for the actual discounted price. And are these kits bad...meaning bad outdrives and/or bad ESC? Or is it gonna be like a 50/50 chance? Thanks for any replies.

studysession

12-07-2004, 05:14 PM

From what I have seen people post. It was enough to make me decide NOT to get one.

NitroBoy24

12-07-2004, 05:46 PM

Basically, from my experience with my MQ as long as you aren't trying to do reverse to forward wheelies and slamming the truck into reverse you should be ok outdrive wise. The trucks from the first production run seem to be having more problems. And Duratrax is working on outdrives made of a stronger plastic along with the aluminum cvd's coming out so the problem should be resolved somewhat soon.

I bought my MQ from Ultimate Hobbies when they were on sale for $140 RTR with free shipping and on the box it had a sticker that said $159.99 so that might be what they are selling them for normally :confused: When I bought mine it was a one day only deal, so I lucked out.

And man I am VERY glad that I held out on buying a Mamba, I was extremely close to breaking down and buying one last week! I really hope that Golden Horizon motor works well!! And thats very good to hear that it has a 2.3mm shaft! So, we can use the new Duratrax pinions coming out if it the gear ratio needs to be raised a bit!

And Joe, when you get that Himax, be sure to post how it performs as soon as you can :cool: Not that Im pressuring you or anything ;)

CooLJoE8

12-08-2004, 05:09 PM

NitroBoy24

12-08-2004, 07:40 PM

studysession - sorry to hear that. i love mine.

I haven't ordered the himax and probably won't be now. someone on another board already ordered one and will be testing it out and giving us the results. The GH motor on the other hand (product #07002 on tower) does work. 2 people have reported on using it and have said it works well. One person used a mamba25 ESC, not sure what the other one used.

Did they tell you anything about how it performed top-speed wise? Like is it worth spending the money to go brushless with that setup or find a good brushed motor?

If you've got any other information I'd be glad to hear it :)
-Thanks!

CooLJoE8

12-09-2004, 01:41 AM

They havent even gotten the motor yet. I'll let ya know what happens (or I'm sure they'll post about it on one18th.

holeshotkid

12-09-2004, 10:34 PM

ChumsGum

12-09-2004, 11:50 PM

I got mine out of the box yesterday and ran it during my lunch break today. It's a very rugged truck and handles very well on-road; I didn't flip it once. Like holeshotkid said, the battery is junk. It has no power and has no runtime. It may be just me but the truck seemed to lose power under steering. It may be that the full sized servo is pulling some voltage from the motor when in use. I'll have to investigate that and maybe try out some of my electrics from my Micro RS4; mini servo and the Orion ESC.

Time to order some GP1100 packs from www.cheapbatterypacks.com

bullaculla

12-10-2004, 12:09 AM

I just got my MQ yesterday and i LOVE IT! The only thing I don't like is the battery and charger. it has a very short run time and the charger takes 3 hrs. it seems to be tough tho, i was kartweeling it off my 1' ramp and it just kept goin, the esc is tricky to setup but after a few tries i got it and it worked good. reverse is slow and doesnt seem to have much torque to get it out of jams but its ok. so far i have had no trouble w/ outdrives. i think this will be a great truck. ;)

I was going to say to reprogram your ESC because most peoples, including mine, seems faster in reverse than forward. But i'd leave it the way it is cause, you might break an outdrive with the full reverse. ;)
HAVE FUN!:D

ChumsGum

12-10-2004, 12:40 AM

Aah, pics of the Lunsford goodies.

http://imagescommerce.bcentral.com/merchantfiles/5019329/2091.jpg

http://imagescommerce.bcentral.com/merchantfiles/5019329/3091.jpg

CooLJoE8

12-10-2004, 06:45 AM

Yeah I like the lunsford turnbuckle parts. Although I hate e-clip/hingepin setups. You would think after all these years of R/C innovation that SOMEONE would come out with a better method.

I'll stick with the stock setup (and my lower shock mount mod) instead of those hingepins.

studysession

12-10-2004, 07:00 AM

I hate the clips myself. One wrong move and it goes flying accross the room and you lose the little clip.

bullaculla

12-10-2004, 05:56 PM

Go back to page 8 of this thread.
CoolJoe posted pics for an easy shock pin fix. I did it and it works great. easy on and easy off.
:D

BTW, CVDs got pushed back to late dec.
:(

holeshotkid

12-11-2004, 12:17 AM

i wish parts could come out when they're supposed to come out rather than keep teasing us and pushing the dates back farther

NitroBoy24

12-11-2004, 12:39 AM

Go back to page 8 of this thread.
CoolJoe posted pics for an easy shock pin fix. I did it and it works great. easy on and easy off.
:D

BTW, CVDs got pushed back to late dec.
:(

Yeah, they went from late november to late december :rolleyes:

Oh well, they will come in soon enough and atleast that gives me some extra money to pay for my brushless setup and hopefully a lipo pack and charger to go with it..

bullaculla

12-11-2004, 01:49 AM

Actually, it went from late nov, to early dec, to mid dec, to late dec.:rolleyes:
(i check TH site everyday:D)

might even go to early jan:(
and I wouldn't be surprised :mad:

ChumsGum

12-11-2004, 04:35 PM

Along with some Mini Quake hop-ups, I ordered this steering wheel upgrade from Tower. It adds a little something to that cheapo radio.

http://www2.gpmd.com/image/d/dtxm5060.jpg

holeshotkid

12-11-2004, 11:04 PM

my truck did go very slow in reverse until i reset my esc and now it goes faster in reverse and if there is somthing it cant get over i just turn it around and use reverse lol
has anyone found a way to set the esc so that reverse is niether slow nor fast, but just in the middle?

how do you replace outdrives? i havent had to replace any but i need to know for when i get cvds

CooLJoE8

12-12-2004, 07:22 PM

You have to either take apart the shocktower/diffcover area or pop the upper arm off of the knuckles.

Josh89

12-12-2004, 09:22 PM

I want one...

holeshotkid

12-14-2004, 10:21 PM

is there any oil in the diffs?

NitroBoy24

12-15-2004, 12:35 AM

is there any oil in the diffs?

Pretty sure its just grease. I've read a thread or two with people wondering if it would benefit from oil in the diffs, but it would have to be a very light weight oil or it would slow everything down.

And holeshotkid, I'd suggest you go over to www.one18th.com and register, the MQ forum is FULL of information and is ten times busier then this thread on the mq :)

CooLJoE8

12-15-2004, 02:02 AM

I got my set of Mini-T Wheel Adapters in today.

First impressions, they look great. Nice blue finish with silver nubs (which take the place of the pin on a Mini-T axle). The price for a pair is $4.50, so $9.00 for a set, which is a good deal. These will let you run any Mini-T wheel available (and of course the tires to go with them). This includes the Trinity Monster Mini wheels, which is what I used for the review.

Here's the Monster Minis next to the stockers:

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-tiresside.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-tirestop.jpg

This is the package you will see at the hobby shop or in the shipping box, depending which method you take to get them.

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-package.jpg

Here's an upclose shot of the parts unpacked. Each pack comes with 2 adapters, 2 screws, and 10 washers.

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-adapter-unpacked.jpg

Upclose shots of the adapter itself.

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-adapter-closeup.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-adapter-closeup2.jpg

CooLJoE8

12-15-2004, 02:03 AM

More upclose shots. These 2 show the adapter on the back of the wheel and on the truck.

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-installed-closeup.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-onwheel-closeup.jpg

For the installation, let me break down the steps I took. Do these for each wheel, one at a time.

1) Get each adapter out, put 5 spacers on each screw.

2) Remove the wheel/tire from the MQ. At this time I suggest taking one of the screws and threading it into the driveshaft end. This will make sure that the driveshaft is ready to accept the screw for a later step, which will greatly help.

3) Place the adapter onto the MiniQuake. This part can get tricky and may frustrate some people. Pop off the upper arm from the knuckle and/or pop off the steering linkage (or rear-steer lockout linkage). This gives you a better grip of the driveshaft. From here, hold the driveshaft in place in the knuckle through the inner bearing, and place the adapter into the knuckle through the outer bearing; lining up the notches on each part. You may have to force the adapter in a bit before its fully installed.

4) Now place the wheel/tire onto the adapter. The Mini-T stock wheels are a bit loose on them, while the Trinity Monster wheels are tighter.

5) With the wheel in place, place the screw through the wheel and gently begin screwing it in. I say gently because if you push too hard when trying to thread the screw in, you could push the driveshaft out of the adapter/knuckle and you'd have to start back at #3. Can get annoying after awhile. I did it a couple times myself

6) Continue threading the screw in and tighten it down. Don't over tighten though, as the driveshaft you are screwing into is plastic and could easily strip if over tightened. Once the aluminum CVDs are available, those will be easier for installing the adapters and screwing the wheels on.

Do these steps for each adapter/wheel individually. If you have them all off at the same time, the driveshafts can get jammed inside the knuckles or in wierd positions. Besides, you can only do one at a time anyways.

CooLJoE8

12-15-2004, 02:05 AM

Now on to more pics. Here are a couple before and after shots:

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-before-front.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-after-front.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-before-angle.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-after-angle.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-before-side.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-after-side.jpg

CooLJoE8

12-15-2004, 02:05 AM

The MiniQuake finished and posing on the stockers:

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-after-angle2.jpg

And here are some shots of the MiniQuake finished with the body on:

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-frontbody.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-anglebody.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-sidebody.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-rearbody.jpg

CooLJoE8

12-15-2004, 02:07 AM

Also as I mentioned earlier, the adapters provide extra width to the truck. This happens because the adapters push the wheels out an extra 1 - 1 1/2 mm from the knuckles, and the Mini-T wheels have more offset than the stock MiniQuake wheels. Here are some pics to show this difference. Its roughly 1/4" on each side. I measured 3.5" from the center to each stock wheel, and 3.75" from the center to each Mini-T wheel (that measurement is to the outer edge of each one).

http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-top.jpg
http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-minitwheeladapt-top2.jpg

Overall, I like the adapters. Duratrax has 3 different tread patterns and 2 different wheels (including the stock wheels and tires), but the added ability to use the Trinity Monster series tires/wheels or the regular Mini-T wheels/tires, adds alot more choices. Plus the wider stance will likely make it a bit more stable. I don't have any track time with these yet, so I can't tell you whether the adapters themselves add any performance benefits. I did do some forward/reverse slam tests in the air and on the ground with the stock setup (motor, ESC, battery....and my ESC has the instant reverse issue that cause outdrive problems). Nothing broke and the adapters held up nicely.

I can't wait to see the different wheel/tire choices people use now that these are available. Even better, if Xray and Hotbodies use the same mounting system as the MiniQuake or Mini-T, you will get the benefit of being able to use their wheel/tire combos. Personally, I like the MiniZilla tires and can't wait to see how they look on the MiniQuake ;)

studysession

12-15-2004, 04:59 AM

Looks cool.

MaxxThrasher

12-15-2004, 09:16 AM

Great job CoolJoe. As usual, thanks for your time and dedication. ;)

CooLJoE8

12-15-2004, 08:34 PM

No problem. I enjoy it. :)

samaj

12-17-2004, 01:10 AM

Does anyone have any links to more videos of the miniquake in action (other that the Duratrax website videos)...?

NitroBoy24

12-17-2004, 02:29 PM

www.one18th.com has a few videos of it in the "Just Videos" section :cool:

kurrz

12-17-2004, 07:26 PM

samaj

12-17-2004, 11:17 PM

I'am looking for a video of the miniquake on the track or on the dirttrack.

CooLJoE8

12-18-2004, 12:42 AM

hey guys still waiting to get my mini quake back from duratrax but ive been reading up on it and read a graupner speed 400 was a good motor for it has anyone else seen or heard of that also could anyone suggest an esc to go with it thanks

One18th will be coming out with a Beast series of motors for the MQ that use 400 size motors. One (stegasaurus or staga for short) will be a closed end motor like the stock 380 and has been dyno'd at like 22,000 RPMs. The second is called T-Rex, and is an open end-bell style motor with replaceable brushes and the ability to advance the timing by loosening 2 screws. This one dynos at about 24,000 RPMs. Both motors will come broken-in, tuned, and optimized for best performance.

Here's a link to a thread about them:

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14525

samaj

12-18-2004, 01:14 PM

What is the runtime with the stock motor & batteries...?

MaxxThrasher

12-18-2004, 02:21 PM

BobH. did an excellent review of the MQ in the latest issue of RCD. He clocked the truck at 19.8 mph. with a runtime of 10 minutes with the stock 600 mah battery.
He worded the review wonderfully and covered every issue.

My sentiments exactly. :cool:

ChumsGum

12-18-2004, 05:41 PM

I can't wait for those new Beast motors.

kurrz

12-18-2004, 08:22 PM

thanks cooljoe ill check it out

samaj

12-18-2004, 11:56 PM

I just got my Miniquake today. The manual says that there will be a red light on the charger -meaning that its working. But the charger does not have any light on the face plate.So is this a new model.....or what....?

How long do u guys keep it for a full charge.? 3 hours or till the bettery gets warm to touch...?

CooLJoE8

12-19-2004, 01:48 AM

Well, I don't use mine for charging batteries (infact, I don't use it at all), so I can't tell you about the charge times and such.

However, most people have reported that the charger doesn't have a light on it even though the manual says it does. So don't be worried, you aren't alone.

I'm sure someone here has been using the charger and can answer your questions though. Usually you can go by the temperature of the pack; aka, if it gets warm you may want to stop charging it. However, this doesn't say whether its fully charged or not...its mostly just a precaution to make sure its not damaged.

BTW, I made a speed calculator program for Micro R/C cars. Actually it can be used for larger R/C cars, but the drop down box on it only has presets for Micro cars/trucks. Also, its mostly meant for brushless motors since one of the factors in the calculation is the kv rating of the motor.

Please note though, this program can only give an estimation. It does not give a 100% accurate result.

Micro R/C Speed Calc v0.8 (http://tinyurl.com/6sot7)

Let me know what you guys think of it. Whether its off by too much, close enough, etc. Should be somewhat close (since it can't calculate surface type, surface angle, wind direction/speed, etc).

NitroBoy24

12-19-2004, 01:57 AM

It charges 200mah an hour so just leave 'er on for 3 hours and you're set. I dont worry about the red light being on, I just go by time. Then I just guesstimate how long I need to put it on the charger and its been working for me :)

I SHOULD be ordering an Etec 2400mah 2-cell lipoly pack tomorrow (along with a Lisaver, voltage cutoff, so I dont have any problems), so I won't have to deal with the crummy runtimes on the stock pack :cool: I may order a GP1100 so I have a pack that will charge up fast just to put around in with the house. Then, hopefully I can get around to ordering some Mini-T wheel adapters, trinity monster meats, and eventually those aluminum cvd's if they ever show up at tower. Then I'll go brushless, yada yada yada...

samaj

12-19-2004, 12:16 PM

I want to upgrade to NIMH cell. But dont want to spend a ton of cash . What should i be paying for a decent battery upgrade & a peak detection charger..?
I have the MRP superbrain charger (Purple box) can i use this charger for the new NIMH pack...?

ChumsGum

12-19-2004, 09:02 PM

I just ran my MQ in a park where a few people run RCs. There where 2 other guys running a Revo and a Savage. My MQ performed very well and my new GP1100 pack gave my MQ a much needed performance boost from the stock battery pack. I was even jumping my MQ with the big boys; although it really wasn't flying very well. The amount of little rocks and pebbles was causing major bump steer preventing you from really taking off a jump well, but hey, I was catching air. Unfortunately though, I broke both rear body post. Overall, I'm lucky to have only broke just that. These were some big jumps made really for mountain/bmx bikes. Oh well, time to order those aluminum post at Tower.

samaj

12-21-2004, 07:20 PM

I was running my MQ for the first time today. When i plugged in the battery. The ESC showed a green light. It ran fine in forward & reverse.I was just wondering is getting full power from the battery.To make sure its going on full speed.

What colour light should the ESC LED be...?

kurrz

12-24-2004, 04:11 PM

hey guys just looking around on one18th and saw the new beast motors they look awesome i hope im not repeating a question but are there any larger tires that will fit on the stock rims? thanks

nuggit

12-24-2004, 11:45 PM

Strike 4

12-25-2004, 12:43 AM

hey guys.im new here but been in to rc for a long time.i just got my MQ yesterday and i was wondering frist off what battrey can i use to give me some more run time,and what charger can i use to fill it up faster, i dont want to wait 3 hours for it to charge.and last what motors can i put in there easy to give it some more umph.thanks

I would get 7.2 volt GP (Gold Peak) 1100's (http://www.unipros.com/cbpsite/packs.asp?cat=CAR&session_id=234879), just scroll down until you see the pack designed to drop into a Duratrax Mini Quake.

There are alot of good chargers out there, personally I would get the standard Novak Millennium off eBay, you can snag them for 50$ easy. However, this charger is old tech (only charges 3,000 mAh NiHMs) and DC so it's not good if you ever plan on getting into 10th scale electric racing and it will require a power supply but I find it suits me perfect for Mini. If you want to just get going fast I suggest the DuraTrax Piranha AC/DC Digital Peak Charger NiCd/NiMH (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCLD5&P=ML) it's AC/DC so you won't need a power supply just plugs into the wall.

As far as motors goes I hear there are some new Beast motors coming out which will be availible on one18th.com; for more info on these motors check out the thread (http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=14525) on them credits to CoolJoe for the link...

Good luck, Strike 4

NitroBoy24

12-25-2004, 02:52 AM

Woo! Got my Kokam Voltage Cutoff Today (AKA the Lisaver) AND my Trinity Uber-Blinged out (and Mounted) Monster Meats..But, no wheel adapters :rolleyes: They are being shipped out of Illinois or where ever the other Tower Hobbies facilty is. And me being the dumbass that I am, accidently ordered one pair (2) of the wheel adapters so I am going to have to order another set.

So far my MQ has the following hopups:
-Etec 7.4V 2400mah pack (Mmmm, 45 minute runtimes!) along with an Apache S2500 charger.
-Lisaver voltage cutoff.
-Trinity Monster Meats
-One set of Mini-T wheel adapters

Future Mods:
-Another set of wheel adapters :rolleyes:
-Mike's T-Rex brushed motor (would rather get longer runtimes with it then going with a brushless)
-A new ESC, not sure what though, I heard about a waterproof one that sounded good.
-Aluminum CVD's.
-Mini-T paddle tires.
-Strip the chrome off the monster meats and dye 'em black.
-Mini-T Silverado body.
-Lunsford Titanium 'Buckles and ball studs.
-?

Cant wait to get this bad boy charged up and ready to go in a few hours! It's Christmas morning! I best be getting to sleep! Don't want to scare off Santa ;)

CooLJoE8

12-25-2004, 10:18 AM

I would get 7.2 volt GP (Gold Peak) 1100's (http://www.unipros.com/cbpsite/packs.asp?cat=CAR&session_id=234879), just scroll down until you see the pack designed to drop into a Duratrax Mini Quake.

That pack they list is not a drop in. Not sure why they are listing that battery layout since it doesn't fit.

What you want is the stick pack form. Its 2 rows of 3 cells, all in line.

||
||
||

^^ Like that

ChumsGum

12-25-2004, 12:11 PM

That pack they list is not a drop in. Not sure why they are listing that battery layout since it doesn't fit.

What you want is the stick pack form. Its 2 rows of 3 cells, all in line.

||
||
||

^^ Like that

Also request that they NOT build the packs with the plastic end caps. With the caps, the pack will not fit in the Mini Quake.

nuggit

12-25-2004, 05:32 PM

thanks for the help on the batter/motor guys.I have a MRC superbrain 959.but i lost tha manual for it and dont rember if it can go that low.Or were i could get a adpter because it has a tamiya type plug.
last off i was running it to day and hit some snow,it was going fine for a few seconeds then it just stoped.I walked over to it heard some sizzling like noise unpluged it and set it aside the heater to dry.anyone else had this happin?my stampede and clodbuster never have had tis happin so im just hopeing it got wet :(

guver

12-25-2004, 05:49 PM

959 can go to .5 amp I think, you can probly charge at 1-2 amps though.

studysession

12-25-2004, 05:58 PM

I normally charge my Micro RC batteries (1/18 scale or smaller) at 1 amp. Works for me.

nuggit

12-25-2004, 06:16 PM

well i can do 1 amp be do you guys know were i could get an adapter for my MRC so i can charge the mini batteries?and what speed control can i use?i think the snow killed mine:( i had it 3 days

CooLJoE8

12-25-2004, 08:04 PM

Tip: Don't use electronic R/Cs outside in the snow or rain, unless you have waterproofed the electronics (receiver and ESC...servo should be fine unless you drown the truck in water). Can't do much for the motor. If you block the air vents, you'll kill it from heat.

1 amp is the most I would use to charge the stock pack. Just be sure to check it once in awhile and make sure it isn't getting too warm. For the adapter, Losi and HPI sell one. Its an HPI Micro plug on one end and a Tamiya plug on the other end. Here are the part numbers for each one

Losi - LOSB1204 (http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByCategory/Product/Default.aspx?ProdID=LOSB1204)

HPI - Can't find the part number for this one since HPI's site is acting up on this computer, but here's a link to it on Tower Hobbies - http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAYR9&P=ML

nuggit

12-25-2004, 08:26 PM

i plow my stampede and clodbuster in the rain and snow all the time and never had problems.both have super roosters.maybe there some what water proof

Strike 4

12-25-2004, 08:27 PM

i plow my stampede and clodbuster in the rain and snow all the time and never had problems.both have super roosters.maybe there some what water proof

It could be because of the ground clearance you get with those cars.

nuggit

12-25-2004, 08:41 PM

It could be because of the ground clearance you get with those cars.....could be.now that i think of it the ESC only gets slpashed alittle the body and frame stop most the water

Strike 4

12-25-2004, 10:37 PM

52$ for a all around set of CVD's is WAY too high!

Anyone know if I could use Losi CVD's on the Mini Quake?

CooLJoE8

12-26-2004, 11:33 AM

strike4,

1) No you want use those others with the MQ. Not only are they a different length, but the MQ CVDs come with the outdrive-drivecups that you need to install to get the CVDs to work (which are also aluminum).

2) Even if you could, it wouldn't make that much sense. Its about $20 for a pair of Losi CVDs. And since the MQ needs 4 of them, that means you need 2 pairs, so $20 * 2 = $40. Basically the same price, but then you still need the outdrive-drivecups as mentioned before.

I'm not sure why people think 4 aluminum CVDs with drivecups for $50 is a ripoff. The RC18T ones will cost the same price, and those are just the CVDs, no drivecups.

buzzsaw46

12-29-2004, 05:56 PM

Has any one tried the Mega 16/15 series motors? they are the same size as a Speed400 but the shaft will need to be turned down to 2.3mm from 3.2mm. they might just be the solution to the torque problem of the Mamba motors. The Hacker C40 series and Aveox 27/13 series might also be an option.

CooLJoE8

12-30-2004, 03:35 AM

Someone already tried a Mega /3 (3-turn) with 6-cells and some lipos. They had no issues with it. I think the /3 is like 3000kv. No one has tried a Mega /2 on 6-cells yet. But the same guy did try a /2 with a 3s Lipo pack and it worked.

BTW, you don't have to turn down the motor shaft. You simply buy pinions designed for that motor shaft size. RRP sells 48 pitch metric pinions in that size already (its the same size that 540 motors use).

buzzsaw46

12-30-2004, 04:27 AM

Thanks for the info CoolJoE, I have a /3t sitting around doing nothing right now:) But I already turned the shaft down to 2.3mm for the Gearbox I have been flying with so I should be good to go with stock pinions.

buzzsaw46

12-30-2004, 04:35 AM

Ooopppps

Duster_360

01-01-2005, 12:30 PM

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p660.html

raptorridr660r

01-01-2005, 05:28 PM

I just ordered on from ultimate, could not pass up the price. I called my local guy who told me he would price match anyone, showed him this sale and he said he pays more then that for them and couldn't come close to that price! I read through most of this thread and it looks like I should be pretty happy with the truck. Without playing with it yet, I now I already want the CVDs and some new batteries..

Duster_360

01-01-2005, 10:12 PM

I got impatient and ordered one last Tuesday night, paid a little more for it than I wished I had, but still think I got a good price. They had them on sale on Thanksgiving Day for the same $135. I'm going to remember that for later this year. They have some really good prices!

raptorridr660r

01-01-2005, 11:47 PM

anyone tried one of these ESCs yet, if its what it says it is, thats a great price..
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5945742760&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT
It doesn't really say anything about brakes, would it have a brake feature or just reverse?

Duster_360

01-02-2005, 12:58 AM

If its really a MC330CR, you could go to Tower Hobbies and search on MC330CR and it will tell you more about it. This is my 1st elect so I would be guessing. The guys over on one18th.com, recommend it - here is a link to that thread

http://www.one18th.com/forums/showthread.php?t=15271

I think I'll be buying one for mine - the stock ESC seems to be hit or miss and I want something thats reliable and won't have prob with thew gp1100 packs I have ordered.

raptorridr660r

01-02-2005, 11:59 AM

I am part of that thread also! My name over there is crazycd1, I see you over there too LOL. I found this on that ESC...
http://www.raidentech.com/fuescelspcof.html
They say its a 99% clone and NOT made by Futaba, would it still be as good I wonder....

Duster_360

01-02-2005, 04:33 PM

That was a great find and a real interesting read. That ESC on Ebay looks like its a littel cheaper and I'm leaning towards that one. If the site you found quoted shipping, it would be easy to make a decision - he looks like a real reputable business. The guy on ebay has had some probs looking at his feedback. Maybe worried over nothing, but I am still trying to decide what to do and who to do it with. Gotta do something - mine should be here Wed as should my gp1100 batts.

raptorridr660r

01-02-2005, 04:45 PM

From everything I can see they are selling the exact same one, I did see the neg feedback on the ebay guy, but most of them were from a buggy he was selling and not an ESC, so I hope thats a good sign. I am gonna call ultimate to see if I can get a time when mine will show up, I wanna order parts already, but I am trying to wait on the truck itself, I hate waiting..
Were did you get your batteries, I see CBPs is out??

Duster_360

01-02-2005, 05:05 PM

I spent too much, but I wanted packs I knew would fit and wanted them like yesterday, lol!

http://www.unitedrc.com/

They advertise these for the MQ. With the deans connector, they were $22.50ea. Shipping brought them to $27.50ea - pricey! These are their Xtreme X23 packs, discharged at 30amps and cycled before they're mailed out. I found them exploring in the elec forum either here or someother place I frequent, don't remember. They (Unitedrc) appear to have a good reputation by the comments that were being made. I expect these to be my best packs.

There was one other place that Okang at one18th.com talked about - maxxamps.com, but going thru their custompacks thingy to order, it wasn't clear that their shotgun style pack would or would not have the end caps. There was no where to tell them to leave them off either like on CBP's. Their pac with a deans connector was $16.99 for GP1100. Would you happen to know the answer about the endcaps? I would like to get at least 2 more packs and expect GP1100s to disappear due to demand from all these new xmas rcs.

raptorridr660r

01-02-2005, 05:09 PM

Not sure about the caps either, I was wondering the same thing, I wish I knew when CBPs was gonna have more, they seem like the best thing going on those packs, I may have to settle for something else for now..

Duster_360

01-02-2005, 05:28 PM

I read some body's speculation CBP would be out for a while and they were advising others to try the Chinese equivalent of the GP1100s, don't remember the number. Guess I need to try and email maxxamps to see what the deal is with endcaps on their shotgun pac.

Duster_360

01-02-2005, 07:43 PM

I emailed maxxamps and asked about the end caps on a shotgun style 6 cell GP1100 pac and here's the answer I received -

We can do it either way. When you pay for the pack you can just put in the notes section that you do not want endcaps and we will take care of it for you, no problem.

Have a great night!

-Austin
www.MaxAmps.com

When you go to check out there will be an area where you can add a note to your order so they will build your pack with no endcaps. I just odered my pacs at $16.99 each.

raptorridr660r

01-02-2005, 07:59 PM

I just ordered 2 packs from them, can't wait, also got a handfull of deans plugs to change all my stuff over. Thanks for letting us know about the endcaps from maxamps!

Duster_360

01-02-2005, 09:13 PM

You're welcome!

Man, it's going to be like XmasII here this week - Tower order hits with lots of stuff for MQ (like deans connectors, tires, wheels, wheel adapters,etc), batteries showing up, and then my mini-quake! Now lets get busy on that ESC business and figure that out too, then its covered!

Duster_360

01-04-2005, 09:17 AM

raptorridr660r - When I was looking at the review on the minizilla, I noticed it was running that futaba equiv of that ebay ESC we've been talking about, so I know it will work on this size motor. I went ahead and bought one. I'll let you know how it works out.

Oh yeah, I'm a littel suspicious the that the ebay guy andthat site you found are the same - same city when you look at addresses.

raptorridr660r

01-04-2005, 03:46 PM

I ended up getting one too, I think my mini quake will be here by Saturday, not sure on the ESC, hopefully all soon. I will also let everyone else know how mine works out..

It also looks like we got our maxamps packs at the right time. Price looks like it just went to $19.99 per pack!! Got mine at $16.99

Duster_360

01-04-2005, 11:03 PM

Me too - I sure hope they deliver, it wasn't cool to find there had been a prob with their work for OKANG. If you look a few posts up in that thread, someone else had gotten GP1100 pacs from maxxamps and said they were fine. The guy from maxxamps told me to let them know if there were any probs - he assured me there would not be -you post pics when you get yours - I'm afraid I'll spend even more time than I do now on the PC if I learn to do that, lol.

I got mine tonight !!! I got the orange one and have already run a charge flat. WOW is all I can say, for something so small, it sure zips! My only prob so far was that the trims were all way off - I got the strg centered, but didn't understand why the MQ raced off the table backwards as soon as I touched the throttle! It was the throttle trim - way off - its about where it needs to be now and it will scoot!! So cool jumping the concrete lip at the end of the driveway coming back from the street. This thing is neat!

I got email my UnitedRC pacs shipped today too, so I will have them Thur and see what GP1100s will do. I think I got a good stock ESC - ran that entire pac out - batts got warm, ESC didn't break a sweat - not even warm! Most probs I've read about were red hot ESCs - not mine, so looking good!! UPS didn't show until late - I had to sign for it - you prob will too. Got shell decaled while batts charged and then ran it flat - seemed like about 8 mi, but almost all WOT, lol! Good luck with yours.

AE_racer38

01-04-2005, 11:06 PM

i've been watching this thread for a while now,and i know d'trax is supposed to update the material of the driveshafts and diff outputs,but does anyone know if it has happened yet? i'm getting my MQ this friday,and i want to know if i need to pick up extras while i'm at the lhs.

raptorridr660r

01-04-2005, 11:33 PM

Good to hear duster!!! I will get pics up as soon as the packs show up. You got 8 minutes on the stock battery? I wonder what the GPs will give us... I can't wait for mine to get here, I still don't even know what color it is :( I hope my ESC works too, then I can use it before redoing everything with the 330cr. Now I just have to figure out what charger I want to get, I have one that will hold me over, but its time for a new one, If I go cheap it will be the Piranha Digital, but I am considering the ICE or Triton so I can be LiPo ready for the future!
You got your Mini from Ultimate too right? How long did it take to get to you? I am in Ohio, so I figure total time should be under 7 working days from when I ordered it on the 1st.

AE racer.. I don't think the new outdrives are out yet, but Duratrax will send you some of the current with a simple call if you brake one, and the entire drive shaft set is only like 7 bucks, then you would have a spare everything!! Hopefully they will supply all the current owners with the updated ones when they do have them.

AE_racer38

01-04-2005, 11:43 PM

yes.that would be nice. i did read on the d'trax site that you could boil the parts to make them more flexible. that should work. back in the day,we used to boil the stock,white,nylon a-arms that came with the rc10t. the original 10t. it did make them much more flexible,so i'm sure it will help on the MQ. :cool:

Duster_360

01-05-2005, 08:19 AM

raptorridr660r - Yeah mine came from UltimateHobbies and it was ordered a week ago yesterday, so it was 7 days including the holiday. I called my credit card the day after I ordered and knew when Ultimate had charged my account, it had shipped. I'm in TX and CA to TX is usually 5 working days. Sounds like your MQ should show up in the next day or two.

The color is whatever they picked - tried to ask for certain color, but with an internet order from them, pot luck is what you'll get. I like mine and if I want another color, I'll just buy another shell. Somebody will be parting them out on ebay before this is over - too popular.

These batts are small, the Piranha is not going to have any prob keeping these up. I've done a lot of reading on the Ice and Triton and it looks like the Ice may be the better charger. If I'm going to get more into elec, I'll have to upgrade charger too. Not sure that will happen - cold weather here is only about another month's worth (not that its cold now - it was near 80 here yesterday) and it'll be primo nitro weather again! I got about 8min of run time, after fooling around with the throttle trim way off and it going WOT every time I touched rev, so I think it'll go 10min using mostly wot. The bigger/better batts should come close to doubling that. I'm relieved I got a good ESC. Real pleased with mine!

smileyboy

01-06-2005, 04:59 AM

thinking about getting one of these for running on carpet track. against rc18t. Anyone have any experience with runnin these BAD BOYZ on the carpet? thanks

Duster_360

01-08-2005, 02:55 PM

I'm running mine on the carpet in my house, but I don't think thats what youre asking about.

Ive had mine 4 days and have run it at least once daily using the stock batt - I'm waiting on gp1100s and connectors. I was wondering if anybody else is having centering probs with steering? I can trim it where it goes straight, but it doesn't stay that way. I'm thinking its the plastic steering arms - looking at them, I can hold one wheel still and move the other a pretty fair amount, there's a lot of give/play. This little thing is fast enough that a constantly changing steering center is making mine a real handful to control. Anybody having similar experience?

On a good note, I'm averaging 14min with stock batt. Can't wait to get better ones.

raptorridr660r

01-08-2005, 04:18 PM

I got my maxamps packs in the mail today, they are the GP 1100s, I will get some pics of the packs on here shortly. My ESC also got here, but I am still waiting on my Mini Quake :( Hopefully it will be here monday. I also ended up ordering a new Duratrax ICE charger!!!!! Tower had it for 129, They have a code to get 25 off a 150 order, so I got a hand full of extra Deans conns and the temp probe, all for $133 shipped, its alot of charger, but if I went cheaper I would just have to upgrade in the future anyways. I am working today on converting a PC power supply to run both my chargers off of, that should be fun. Well I will get back soon with the pics of the packs, I have yet to even open them and look at them so no info yet!!

smileyboy

01-08-2005, 08:17 PM

Just got mine today. It is the last one in Denver. I get to race next week against mini-ts on a oval carpet track septup with jumps and bumps and all that good stuff. Should be fun.

What hopups would you all recommend?
thanks

raptorridr660r

01-08-2005, 10:35 PM

Well no need to take pics of the packs, the heat shrink on the packs covers up everything so I can't see how good the soldering was, but the packs did come out nice! Everything seem solid, now the mini needs to show up so I can try them...

Duster_360

01-08-2005, 11:53 PM

I ran a maxxamp pac this afteroon soon as I got the deans connector installed - what a PIA, but they are real nice when you do a good job. Glad my wife was around for that 3rd had I was needing. Anyway without topping the batt off, I quit after almost 25min of running (about 70deg) to eat. That pac took all 1100mah I had the charger set for and was a nice change charging in 44 min versus the 3hr for the stock batt.

I'm real satisfied with the maxxamps pacs - but the wire should be smaller. I went with 14 since that is what they use and because I noticed the ESC I bought (still waiting) used 14. It causes some batt compartment fitting probs - nothing that can't and hasn't been fixed, but smaller wire wouldn't cause any probs at all. Now if I can just get it to steer straight all the time - at least figure out why it is doing that, it'll be great. Still a blast to play with.

Any thoughts after actually seeing the ESC? I am just about to buy the ICE also, next order probably. Does it need all the charge adapters converted to use banana plugs?

smileyboy - only thing I would recommend right off is to get a few gp1100 batt pacs - order with a female ultra deans connector and a male deans connector to convert the input for the truck. Make a big diff in punch and run time over the stock 600mah NiCd. CheapBatteryPacks has them back in stock - go over to one18th.com and visit the MQ forum - look for the sticky on faqs - it'll tell you how to get your batts built when you order. Good luck

smileyboy

01-09-2005, 02:39 AM

thanks for all the tips. I will be telling you some of my own after I have spent a little time racing

Strike 4

01-10-2005, 04:19 PM

I have also noticed the steering centering problem, must be slop. Has anyone else broke a body post? I already broke 3. I love the truck, I am charging the stock pack @ 1.5 amps on a Novak Milleninum pro in about 7 minutes and get around 834 Milliamps. Anyone run a Team Helotes 1200? I am about to order one and would like opinions...

raptorridr660r

01-10-2005, 06:23 PM

Got mine today, first thing I did was cut the supplied charger wire off and wire it on my peak charger to fast charge the stock battery and test everything out. First thing I notice is I must have gotten the ESC that didn't have brakes :( It also seems faster in reverse like others have said. Anyone know what the best email address for duratrax to see if they will send me the correct ESC, I know some people got new ones sent right out wihile on guy told others that it was a typo and there is no brake!! Other then that it is pretty sweet. Man is it small next to my savage and buggy, I though it was a little bigger, the savage tire towers over the thing!!I will get some pics up and post a link here later. Now its time to solder up some deans connectors, put the new batts in and brake some parts!!!

raptorridr660r

01-10-2005, 07:49 PM

Posted some pics at http://photos.yahoo.com/crazycd1
More to come later tonight!!

Duster_360

01-11-2005, 09:02 AM

raptorridr660r - glad to see yours finally showed! You have the same color one I have. My ESC is like you describe, no reverse and faster backwards than fwd. I have run the 1100s over 10x without breaking anything although my shell is getting pretty beat up already. This strg prob is pi**ing me off though, it won't stay centered and I'm not sure why. Had some feedback over on 18th that its the servo - not sure I buy that. Maybe buying a set of better turnbuckles and etc. This is hard enough to control as fast as it is without the weird strg.

I got the pesudo futaba 330 ESC yesterday and I'm gonna change that before I change servo in case its the ESC (mine will occassionally fritz and mix up fwd and rev - usually after running 15-18+min and at the edge of radio reception. It may be time for fresh AAs in the TX too??

Strike 4 - running gp1100s, but I've heard a lot of good comments about their stuff. I'd be curious about the weight of that 1200 pack. The 1100s already weight about 30grams more than the stock batt.

raptorridr660r

01-11-2005, 03:49 PM

Duster, I have only run mine about 10 mins so far, and my steering has been fine, but the parts up there are soft and there is alot of flex compared to my 1/8th scales. I ordered a set of Ti turnbuckles on ebay for a mini t for 16 shipped, I think that will help alot with all the flex. I had one of these servos before and it was junk, I have a JR metal gear ball bearing servo sitting here I will probably use in the mini quake. I started to solder on all my deans last night, and should get the rest of the stuff I ordered today so I can finish it all up and use all the new stuff! Can't wait. I wish it was nice out, there is not enough room in my house for this thing, its quick!! Summer needs to hurry.

Duster, PM me and I can link you to a good deal on the Ti turnbuckles if you are interested..

Duster_360

01-11-2005, 07:54 PM

Got home early this pm and was running my 3rd pac when it came rolling by me and I realized it wouldn't move as it coasted to a slow, sad stop. Busted left rear and front right outdrives. I have them on the way from Duratrax, but in the meantime, I'm shut down waiting on parts. At least they were nice on the phone - faxed over a copy of my receipt for the MQ and parts on the way. I hope this is the piece that is being made in alum that everybody's waiting on.

Ok, I didn't know the servo was junk. Guess a new one will be in my next TH order. So you're thinking Ti turnbuckles and a new servo will fix this sloppy strg? Gotta get it fixed,

I pre-ordered one of Grafix's STEG motors today, looking at the spec diff in that one and the stock motor, it should really fly.

raptorridr660r - you got pm

kurrz

01-11-2005, 09:53 PM

to run the gp 1100s do you need to have deans connectors and replace the stock esc? thanks

Duster_360

01-11-2005, 10:09 PM

Replace the esc - no, its not necesary just to run gp1100s.

I hear diff answers about the deans question - some say gp1100s will melt the stock connectors which they advertise as having a 10amp limit. Others say stock connectors are fine with gp1100's. I don't know for sure. I ran with stock but only using the stock batt. When I had gp1100s built, I chose the deans connectors. If you can solder and can get an extra set of hands to help for 5 min, deans are no probs to do up. I chose to be on the safe side.

Definitely get some gp1100s - make a real diff in speed and runtimes.

littlebuddha

01-11-2005, 10:48 PM

hey guys, i just got my mini quake today. i noticed that the pinion gear has no setscrew on it?? anyone else had that problem?

Duster_360

01-12-2005, 09:29 AM

I'm not where my MQ is right now (work) but the manual shows that there's supposed to be a 3mm set screw in the pinion. Do you mean yours is missing the set screw or that there's no hole in the pinion for the set screw??

littlebuddha

01-12-2005, 05:04 PM

Ya there is no hole in the pinion and there is no set screw either, its solid. it looke like its just held there, it works, but i dont know how i'll get if off.

Duster_360

01-12-2005, 06:12 PM

I just looked at mine - you're absolutely correct - mine has no set screw either. I've ordered another motor for mine, so I guess that means I have to worry about getting a pinion. Glad you pointed that out. With no set screw, I guess the pinion must be pressed on the shaft.

kurrz

01-12-2005, 06:21 PM

do the gp 1100s come with male or female deans conn. or can you choose

kurrz

01-12-2005, 06:55 PM

i just checked out cheap battery packs and the cbp1150 is only 12.60 and supposedly a drop in does anyone have experience with this pack or fitment issues with packs from cheap battery packs? thanks ps they also say to chose a hpi style conn

Duster_360

01-12-2005, 08:15 PM

When I bought batts, CBP was out of GP1100s which was what I wanted. I bought some from maxxamps.com and from UnitedRC.com - all gp1100s, and all with female deans connector - by choice. The stock conn is called a hpi micro, as you've found out. I don't know anyone who has run the 1150s - they're Chinese and I expect they'll do the job.

The deal with the conns is the amps they can take - supposedly the hpi is good up to 10a while a deans - I've never seen a limit mentioned. I know these 1100s can discharge at up to 30a, so the batt capacity is there to put that kind of load on the stock conn. Will running it cause it to see that much? I don't know. I hear some say it can and others say it won't. I've converted to deans cause I've got a more powerful motor ordered and want the insurance I won't be melting conns.

CBP and most who offer custom built pacs offer wire selection too. I have pacs with 14 and 16ga. Frankly the 14 is too much and causes fit problems. These would prob be plenty with 18ga. Be sure and specify shotgun configuration with no endcaps - the stock pac came with no endcaps - endcaps won't fit (easily - will have to modify) and the 2 assemblers I bought from this was not a prob - mention no endcaps in a note window at ordering time and thats what you'll get. There will not be any fit probs if you get them with no endcaps. If you get big wire, you'll need to notch the batt tray so the batt can sit flat - took me about 5 min with an xacto. Not a big deal.

kurrz

01-13-2005, 05:13 PM

oh ok CBP says that their packs are a drop in for the mini quake so they probably have no end caps im kinda new to rc and dont have much experience soldering but it cant be that hard ill just get the deans maybe ill order a gp1100 and a cbp1150 and see if theres a difference thanks again

raptorridr660r

01-13-2005, 06:35 PM

So is it safe to say that nobody has a stock ESC with brakes?? I have seen alot that don't and some say they sent them in to be replaced, but I have not seen anybody say they do actually have brakes. I have another ESC, but I do want the stock one as a backup, but I would like the brakes to actually work. I emailed dtx and got this....

Dear Valued Customer,

Thank you for your recent e-mail. We are sorry to hear that you are
having problems with one of our products. We are aware that the Mini
Quake was advertized in print and on the box to have the brake feature.
The prototype that was tested by our R&D department did include brake.
Unfortunately the production model came through and did not include the
brake feature. We are currently working with our vendor to resolve this
situation and hope to have a solution in the very near future. Until
then, we can only apologize and continue to ask for your patience
regarding this matter as a solution will be coming soon.

I hope you find this helpful and thank you for giving us the
opportunity to serve you and your hobby needs.

Sincerely,

Tim

Product Support Technician

I have also seen this Tim say that brakes was a misprint, so whats the deal on them so far?

Duster_360

01-13-2005, 10:22 PM

Guy I dealt with at Duratrax called himself John T, was really nice until I started asking about probs with the ESC. I guess if these are selling well, they've realized what an expense it would be to provide another ESC for all they have sold. Two sets of outdrives prob cost less than the postage used to put them in the mail, so thats a no brainer, great customer relations.

Replacing everybody's ESC would be a serious dent in the profit margin, so I bet that their solution will be like the solution offered at one18th.com - when you're setting the "brake" (reverse) in the ESC instead of holding it full brake, leave it at neutral. This gives you a small amount of rev which now acts somewhat like brakes (weak) and helps protect your outdrives. Not sure you'll ever get true brakes form the stock ESC.

kurrz - solddering up a set of deans is just following instructions - good iron, good solder. Assemble as per the back of the pkg they come in. Biggest prob is finding way to hold everything in place while heating it and not getting burned. Spare set of hands makes it go real quick. If you get both pacs, report back and let us know what the 1150s are like - a gp1100 will provide a good comaprison. My gp1100s have been peaking at 1160 - 1185, and give the MQ some amazing acceleration.

littlebuddha

01-14-2005, 12:12 AM

ya guys i was wondering abou the same thing, the review in rccaraction says it has brakes, but i didnt notice any. anyone know how to solve this problem yet? also doesn anyone else have their setscrews for the pinion missing? should i contact duratrax and try to get them to replace it? otherwise the car seems great.

kurrz

01-14-2005, 08:03 PM

my quake has been gone awhile i bought in november got two runs in and realized it was ridiculously fast in reverse and weak at best in forward compared to the power in reverse, a bad esc so the guy at my lhs said the whole truck had to be sent in he just called today and said it was back so im going to pick it up tommorow ill check and see if it has brakes and report back i cant believe its been seven weeks and if duratrax is going to tell us all that it was a misprint about the esc then i wont buy another product from them because its a lie! but i really like the truck but like i said i only got in two runs before i returned it but its in my opinion the best mini out

raptorridr660r

01-14-2005, 08:09 PM

Let us know how it is, that really sucks they had it so long, Remind me never to send one into them :) From everything I can tell there is NOT an ESC with brakes unless you buy your own, I am gonna put my new one in and let the stock one sit, if they ever fix them I will send it in then. I have been told that they are working on fixing it. Still wanting to know if anyone has one with brakes yet??

Strike 4

01-14-2005, 08:30 PM

It will cost about 50$ for a new ESC, so why not just buy CVD's? My ESC dosen't have brakes as well, but it dosen't seem to go faster in reverse than it does foward. Also on the servo centering issue I got the same thing and I am sure it isn't the servo since the steering has alot of slop.

I have been messing with the idea of putting GPM oil shocks on my quake, anyone know if it will work?

raptorridr660r

01-14-2005, 08:52 PM

I already have a new ESC here, and I do plan on getting the CVD's as well. I already have my JR XR2i radio installed as well, and with all the adjustments, it is not faster in reverse anymore either. Also the steering has improved.
Strike which shocks you talking about??? The stock ones seem to work well and you can always fine tune with oil and springs.

I started to instal my GPM Ti Turnbuckles today, here is a pick of the rear. Have not done the front yet. I got them on ebay cheap, they are for the mini-t. The rear is noticably stiffer and I think they will really help out in the front where there is alot of play.

kurrz

01-14-2005, 10:14 PM

ive got cvds on back order and have also heard on one18th that theyre fixing the problem ive heard the futaba mc230cr is a good replacement any suggestions? thanks

raptorridr660r

01-14-2005, 10:23 PM

I got the OEM MC330CR from ebay for 30 bucks shipped, handles more amps and lower turn motors then the 230, but both would be great for the mini quake for sure.

Strike 4

01-14-2005, 10:49 PM

I am talking about GPM oil filled threaded shocks for the Mini-T. The basic question is will Mini-T shocks work on a Mini Quake?

kurrz

01-15-2005, 07:50 PM

hey guys picked up my quake today and i am very disappointed this esc works better but still slightly faster in reverse no biggie but the receiver is a pos if i go more than eight feet it goes crazy have four rcs all with their own radio system and they all work fine you'd think with all of the recurring problems and having my truck soooooooo long everything would work great i am losing faith in duratrax :mad:

Duster_360

01-15-2005, 09:04 PM

Check the antenna on the tx - mine was really hard to get the antenna into the right hole, then it was real hard to get it to screw in much at all. I guess I'm realizing what I thought was an ESC prob is really the rx, but I have better range - more like 40' before it starts getting crazy. And its seems to be only at low throttle, soon as I goose it, it straightens out and does what I tell it. Might have to try another rx.

Something I noticed on mine - the wires into the rx weren't seated - actually fell out when I was going over mine before running it - make sure wires are plugged in all the way and the crystal as well. Might be worth looking at the crystal in the tx as well - if these aren't plugged in all the way, will have probs.

kurrz

01-15-2005, 10:50 PM

thanks i checked and wrote duratrax and i am going to call my lhs on monday

raptorridr660r

01-16-2005, 01:27 AM

Sorry to hear the Kurrz, I have always hated the cheap Futaba stuff like what comes on the mini q, I have always changed to JR or Airtronics, I have my XR2i on my mini quake now and its way better, that futaba radio feels and acts like a radio shack toy... I had a Nitro Evader once, it had the same radio problems that you are having.

littlebuddha

01-16-2005, 02:20 AM

hey guys, wondering if this could solve the faster in reverse than forward problem, could you just switch the positive and negative wires over,, and then reverse the channel? i think that may just work.

kurrz

01-16-2005, 09:10 AM

yeah i was thinking i would just get a hitec receiver for it and use my aggressor radio its the cheap one but it has a great feel and works glitch free i am going to get a computer radio in the future but its irritating because i spent 199 on this tax included then got a bad esc and after they had it for a long time i find oput the receiver is junk oh well

raptorridr660r

01-16-2005, 11:23 AM

Little, when I switched to my JR radio everything was backwards, so I had to set both Thr. and Steering to reverse, and it did make reverse slower and fwd faster, So I would think it would work with the stock radio as well, but one other thing that helped was all the extra epa and other adjustments, I could really fine tune with those, I also got tighter steering so its better in the house now.

Duster_360

01-16-2005, 01:08 PM

raptorridr660r - did you finish swapping the tb's on the front? How much of the strg linkage were you able to change with the kit? This comes with the balls too - were they a prob to switch out? Pic?

My other rcs runoff my 3PK, but I'm having some kind of funny braking prob and haven't had time figure out what's going on. I have spare futaba rx and the crystals so that's where i'll eventually be headed when I get the brakes back on my tx. AM glitches due to all the pwr lines in my backyard here - but I'm running in the street where they aren't a prob and still seeing funny behavior. My TNX came with this same tx and rx, may give that a try, see if its any better.

Keep forgetting - everyone I've compared with has no screw in the pinion - they're pressed on and supposely can be removed and re-installed by hand. The stock motor shaft is 2.3mm and not the more popular 3mm that has available aftermarket pinions. That's my other proj - new motor soon as I get strg to straighten out.

raptorridr660r

01-16-2005, 01:44 PM

Duster, I have not finished the front, but I might have time to get it done today, I will get some pics for you too. It looks like I can redo 3 of them with the parts I have. The only bad thing is the balls, they are shorter when installed, not sure if it will make a difference or not, the rear seems ok. They also have a bigger thread, so you have to drill out the hole to get them in, I am using a 5/64 drill bit and it seems to be just right. There is a 4th link in the front that I will not be able to do, I may go to a hobby shop and see if I can peice something together to complete all the links. Looks like there will be some play in the bellcranks still, but should be tons better then the stock links.
By the way, no set screw on my pinion gear either :(

Duster_360

01-16-2005, 03:07 PM

Thanks for the update, hope you get time to finish. I am flying tomorrow (back home), and I know my stuff is there waiting on me, so I hope to get my outdrives repaired and at least the rear tie rods replaced tomorrow and put some run time on my batts.

I'd heard the balls needed a bigger hole - thx for passing that along. I've got some setup tools and I'll see what settings (camber, caster and toe) are before I start getting into it. If the shorter balls make any diff, I'll see it and let you know.

raptorridr660r

01-16-2005, 03:11 PM

I got the rest of the tbs done, at least the ones I could, pics here.. http://photos.yahoo.com/crazycd1
There is still one left to do, the link between the steering servo and the bellcranks. As you can see in the pics, there are 2 complete tbs left over from the mini-t set. I think all I need to do is find one more of the shortest rods and take the ball cups off and use the longer cups from one of the extra tbs and it will be perfect for that last link!! Now if I can find that one on its own I will be good to go! There is still alot of play up front, one reason is there is plastic bushings in the bellcranks and they don't fit that great. I am gonna try to find bearings that small and that should help out some more.

kurrz

01-16-2005, 05:45 PM

just thought id let you guys know my pinion has a set screw also cut the zip ty with all the wiring helped the glitching a little still sucks but what a cool truck jumps well and is fairly quick cant wait to get some nimh batts also what do you guys charge your batts at

Duster_360

01-16-2005, 06:17 PM

raptorridr660r - hey, that looks great, sounds like you've got the last one figured out too. Did you just measure the old tbs and make new ones the same length or do something else to get them the same? I always change strg bellcrank bushings for brgs - everything I own runs on brgs - the bushings don't fit well and once they get grit in there, strg starts eating servo torque and strg slow down. Somebody has to have them - I'm hoping I have them on hand (I keep a bunch of spares) - intended to do this all along - since you've been in there there's a set of alum posts aval as hop up - is it needed, are the post flimsy and part of the strg prob?? Thanks for the pics, gonna have to do that myself.

kurrz - 1.5amps and I've been using 1200 vs 1100 as capacity and mine have been charging to 1165-1180 before they peak. The are getting to nearly 120F at peak, they are taking a good charge and have a lot of punch. Will accel really hard. Mine will spin all 4 wheels on concrete when batt is fresh. I can get it to drift if I get the weight transfer going right, lol! Maybe there is more than one shop assembling these for DT - why some have the set screw and others don't - maybe was just a parts change??

Good thinking on cutting the tie keeping all the wires bunched together. Will try that myself when mine is fixed.

raptorridr660r

01-16-2005, 10:39 PM

Duster, I think if we can find the right bearings, it will be ok, the inner post were aluminum already, but the bellcranks just have way to much play. As far as making the tbs the right lenth, it was trial and error basically, they will be different the the stock ones due to the ball studs being shorter, I just kept adjusting till everything went together straight. I did notice after I was done the if I push the truck all the way down and bottom out the shocks, it pulls the front tires in quite abit!! Did not pay attention when it was stock, could you push yours down and see how much it affects the toe angle? I can get a pic of mine even to show you how much. I think it did it stock as well, but I am guessing not as bad as it does now:( thats the only negitive I have run into with these TBs. I wish I would have paid attention to how it was stock....

Duster_360

01-17-2005, 07:19 PM

Think you're talking about camber - looking at the tires from the front, head on, camber is how much they lean in or lean out. Toe is the angle of the tires from above looking down like \ toe out or /toe in. Pretty sure you're talking about camber and just sitting, camber is about -2deg, when you compress the suspension it changes to about -4deg. Negative camber leans in toward the center of the truck. So yeah, you're ok, it does it when stock. Seems to be the last 1/4" of suspension compression too. I know none of my others do that, so I'm not sure what to make of it changing like that. Common mistake when taking a Tmaxx apart is putting the tbs on top of the strg arms instaed of teh bottom. The camber changes like the MQ when its asembled like that. When its right, there's no change in camber as suspension's compressed. Going to have to think about that.

raptorridr660r

01-17-2005, 07:58 PM

Here is the best way to show you what it is doing
1st sitting still looking down from top of truck fronts straight, backs are angled in just a little like stock
l l

/ \

Now if I compress the suspension I get closer to this...

/ \

\ /
Only the backs are not affected as much as the fronts, hope that gives you a better idea of what I was talking about

Maxx_A_Million

01-17-2005, 08:28 PM

i cant test my back end becasue its all apart awaiting CVDs, but when i compress the front end i get almost no camber change and just a hint of toe in...

honestly, i think thats a good thing becasue that way youre more stable in a straight line coming off jumps. . . one of the hardest things to control is a monster truck with toe-out when the suspension's compressed... i'd assume the back end would do it a little too but i dot know wich way... most r/cs ahve some slight amount of a change in camber/toe as the suspension cycles. . . i think thats what bump steer is...

im going to try and get a set of the lundsford titanium adjustable turnbuckles and ill let yall know how it goes. . . should be here thursday or friday if shipping goes good. . . (2 day express and im giving them 4 days counting tuesday if i get it out before noon...) my CVDs and tunrbuckles better come... ig otta do a mini bash thing this weekend and try to keep up with a mamba'd mini t. . .

oh well. . . GL...

kurrz

01-17-2005, 08:36 PM

the cvds are in stock @ tower although my back order hasnt been sent but probably because of the holiday keep us posted on the turnbuckles thanks

Duster_360

01-17-2005, 08:41 PM

OK- you ARE talking about a toe change. Looking real closely while suspension is being compressed, the toe in the front may change to more toe in, but if the rear is changing, its by an small amount and not obvious. Would appear if its changing, its to more toe in like its got.

You put the balls in the rear on the bottom of the arm and in the front, they go on the top, right? Let me know if you want pics, send me a pm with your email and I'll take whatever you want/need.

Maxx_A_Million

01-17-2005, 09:07 PM

yeah. . . if you put the balls on the wrong sides you get some messed up adjustments. . . the studs go underneath on back and on top in front. . . haha... you put em on top in back and you have about 45 degrees of toe out. . . if you fixed that with the links youve got and compressed the rear tires would toe WAY in. . .

ive got a request for you. . .

the link youve got across the bellcranks? can you make that shorter/longer and tell me what it does as far as ackerman? im thinking one way it'd give you extra throw on your inside tire and one way it'd give you extra throw on your outside tire. . . maybe a valuable turning option?

raptorridr660r

01-17-2005, 09:21 PM

Thanks guys, I have all the ball studs in the right spots, but in the front, them being shorter, make the TBs a little longer then stock and that is what I think is causing it, as it moves through the travel, shorter one would affect the toe less, but I will live with it, not a big deal, Maxx, I will mess with it tomorrow some and let you know on that center link....

Duster_360

01-17-2005, 09:32 PM

Yeah, I went back and look at your pic of the rear you posted on prev page and they're where they're supposed to be. Guess I'm going to have to play close attention when I put my set in.

I just ordered a HS225MG and saver to replace the servo set up. Also have a set of DT alum CVDs ordered - Tower lists them as being in stock, but when I ordered, I got a note saying they will be coming later from Reno, as in later next week.

Maxx_A_Million

01-17-2005, 09:45 PM

uhh... crap... i hope theyre still in stock. . . and i hope i get mine by friday. . .i dont wanna have to deal with new plastic outdrives. . .
:(

Duster_360

01-17-2005, 10:06 PM

CVDs ship said 1/25-1/28 ordered about an hour ago. I am going to wait on metal - no sense in replacing the busted plastic outdrives with more plastic even though I have them. Give me the chance to get the rest of mods done and hopefully have the new motor show up.

Duster_360

01-18-2005, 09:53 PM

raptorridr660r - reading Mar RCCA and in article on RC18T, for tuning tips they said could adjust roll center by installing shims under the ball studs. Also a .5mm shim under the rear ball studs would give you more strg. Last tuning tip was to eliminate bump steer by placing a 2mm shim under the strg knuckle ball studs. Since these ball studs are diff heights, swapping them out has changed front end geometry. Apparently it doesn't take much of a change to change the geometry - .5mm is only .020in, even 2mm is only .080in. We're not talking about a lot here making a diff.

I'm going to measure the assembled stock piece and see what kind of change we're talking about. May be able to shim the shorter gpm balls so you wind up with the same dimensions. Thought I read somewhere that someboby's studs are the right size, but can't remember where I saw that.

raptorridr660r

01-18-2005, 10:44 PM

I saw that as well Duster, I bought 3 different size washers today, I didn't get around to putting them in, but I will shim till I get the stock distance back and all should be well! Thanks for letting me know! I can see it doesn't take much!

littlebuddha

01-19-2005, 01:50 PM

you guys know if a side by side battery pack like the one from the rc18t will fit the mini quake? thanks.

Duster_360

01-19-2005, 03:05 PM

I'm not sure - the batt config for a MQ is dbl stick, 2 rows of 3 batts end to end. I found a pic of one of the side by side batts to look at and it looks similar. The gp1100s I run are a tight fit - if the side by side is any bigger, its not going to fit. I'd be worried the side by side is longer and if it is it won't fit. Anyway you can measure one accurately and I can compare and then make a better guess?

raptorridr660r

01-19-2005, 04:39 PM

I really don't think any other configuration would fit, to tight, side by side would be to wide I am pretty sure...
On another note, I ordered some bearings for the bellcranks, I hope that will fix the rest of the play in the steering. The bearings that should fit are 4x7mm and duratrax makes them, only bad part is it was 10 bucks for 4! I think they will be worth it though....

Duster_360

01-19-2005, 06:24 PM

littlebuddha - the side by side will be way too long to fit. My pacs are a little over 3.5" long and by my calculations the 6 cell side by side will be
6 x .69" = 4.14" which will not go. raptorridr660r was right, they won't fit.

raptorridr660r - thanks as always for that info, 4 x 7mm, sounds like an odd size, bet I don't have any of those sitting around. I'll look to see if anything I run uses that size, otherwise, I'll be ordering some too.

My TH order will be here Fri, but no CVDs until a week from FRI, 1/28. Guess I'd better be glad I did get them ordered before they went out of stock! Mike over at one18th.com shipped my Stegga motor today too. Now if I can just get out from under all this work at work, I'll get to wrenching!