DuraTrax 1/18 Scale Mini Quake EP Monster Truck RTR

[Duster_360]

Welcome to the boards Jon -
The best way to get some quick answers is to go to one18th.com, go to the offroad forum and find the MiniQuake thread. There are 2 stickies at the top of the thread, one on FAQs has pretty much all the batt info you need to know. The other sticky is about hopped up motors that are selling from that sites on-line store. There are other threads that discuss brushless setups, servos and ESCs etc.

Right now the MQ is out ahead of the hop-ups. Most of us are in a wait til they get here mode. The available hopups from DT are listed in your manual in the parts lists. Can ck tower hobbies and see when they say they're going to be in. One18th.com is also selling atomic CVDs which will prob be high on any list to get since the plastic outdrives are short lived for some of us (mine lasted 7 runs if I remember correctly).

Once you've digested teh above info, feel free to ask specific questions, this is a great place to get the info/help you're looking for.

[littlebuddha]

ya that sux, or a cheap rc18t battery would have been great. i've been thinking of 2 hop ups so far, the battery and a smaller pinion, the acceleration isnt that great and it tends to bog down in the snow at times. the run times are horrible and are probably the worst i have seen for all my cars. a battery pack is a must.

i was also thinking about upgrading it with a futaba esc. any suggestions on pinion size, batteries? i have read that the pinion isnt a standard size one so ones for the mini-t and rc18t wont fit. thats a bummer, and tower are out. i'm sure that in itself would help with acceleration and runtime.

also do you guys think i should send the stock pinion (which doenst have a set screw) back to duratrax as it seems a defected part?the esc w/o brakes is also a dissapointment, and it sees basically everyone except a few and rccaraction review crew got a screwy one. :rolleyes: figures. and i was thinking of keeping the esc especially which seemed pretty decent.

anyways i love the truck and i think its the best one out there at the moment for me! just hope duratrax gets the problems fixed. i'm hoping to put that 1 year warranty to good use! :)


I really don't think any other configuration would fit, to tight, side by side would be to wide I am pretty sure...
On another note, I ordered some bearings for the bellcranks, I hope that will fix the rest of the play in the steering. The bearings that should fit are 4x7mm and duratrax makes them, only bad part is it was 10 bucks for 4! I think they will be worth it though....

[Duster_360]

A quality batt makes quite a diff in accel and runtime. The stock batt was good for about 10 min as long as you weren't running WOT, I had one run all at WOT that was only 6min. With gp1100s, I've seen as much as 20min with lots of hi speed passes back and forth in my driveway. The accel is noticeably faster too. Try it with a good batt before you decide to change pinions - the batt will make that much diff. Sorry your side by side batt wouldn't work - they ought to standardize these things!!

I bought 3 gp1100 pacs from maxxamps.com, but you can also get them from cheapbatterypacs.com, UnitedRC and I think ballistic batts is building them too. CBP is cheapest like 19/ea, but others are within a fewbucks. They are custom pacs - shotgun (or dbl stick) style, no endcaps, get either 18 or 16ga wire and a fem deans connector. Change the conn on the car to a male deans conn - stock conn can melt or fuse together running it hard with better batts, deans is better anyway.

For an esc get that OEM one off ebay made for futaba in either the 230 or 330cr size (my 330 was 32 delivered) - read back a few pgs here and think you'll see it mentioned. Can't find it, lmk and I'll post link. Unless you're missing a tooth off the pinion its fine - most I've talked with don't have the set screw anymore. Suspicious how RCCA got one with "good" ESC - funny how that happens when advertising's concerned isn't it?

[kurrz]

its very funny how duratrax wants a better name but yet they keep screwing up and i dont think i havent gotten very good customer service but this truck rules i hope the aftermarket latches on so i dont have to buy duratrax hop ups

[Duster_360]

I really hesisitated buying one because of the name. I bought some of their stuff a couple of years ago and it was pretty much wasted money. Forum convinced me to try a DT Piranha digitial charger and its been great - exactly the opposite experience. So, I sucked it up and bought my MQ expecting I would likely have to change a bunch of stuff to get it where I want it. If you're going to nix getting DT hop-ups, 'frad you may be waiting a while. I think they'll be forthcoming from more than one company, just going to take a little while, research, manufacturing, contracts and all that - longer than I want to wait.

Overall, its not a bad truck. Re-program the ESC to de-emphasize reverse and its better/easier on the outdrives which is what breaks easiest. Gte a better batt pac and charger and enjoy. DT wanted to get it out there and the experience we're having with probs is really not much diff (maybe better in fact) than probs other minis have had. I'm not giving mine up!

[jottney]

Thanks a million Ill check that site out and keep you posted! Thanks :)

Welcome to the boards Jon -
The best way to get some quick answers is to go to one18th.com, go to the offroad forum and find the MiniQuake thread. There are 2 stickies at the top of the thread, one on FAQs has pretty much all the batt info you need to know. The other sticky is about hopped up motors that are selling from that sites on-line store. There are other threads that discuss brushless setups, servos and ESCs etc.

Right now the MQ is out ahead of the hop-ups. Most of us are in a wait til they get here mode. The available hopups from DT are listed in your manual in the parts lists. Can ck tower hobbies and see when they say they're going to be in. One18th.com is also selling atomic CVDs which will prob be high on any list to get since the plastic outdrives are short lived for some of us (mine lasted 7 runs if I remember correctly).

Once you've digested teh above info, feel free to ask specific questions, this is a great place to get the info/help you're looking for.

[holeshotkid]

does anybody know were to order knuckles? tower has them listed for late Feb :mad:

[Duster_360]

jottney - you're welcome!

holeshotkid - this is only a guess, but I'm thinking you're not going to find them unless hobbypeople or somebidy like that has them. Knuckles are one of DT's StressTech parts and they're covered for a year, so why not call them at 217-398-8970. They should send you a set for free - bet they have them too! Or email boatsupport@duratrax.com and tell them what's wrong and let them get back to you and request what they are going to need to make it happen. Its in the manual - look at pg2 - StressTech guarantee.

I've been thru this for broken outdrives which they replaced (I called them). You're going to need a copy of your invoice, and the part number which is DTXC8208. I scanned my receipt and saved it as a jpeg which I then emailed. I had my outdrives is less than 3 days. As long as you've got the receipt and its less than a yr old, you're covered. They may want you to send the broken ones back - they didn't on my outdrives. If thats a prob, ck Hobbypeople and hope they have them. Its a long wait til late Feb. Good luck

[raptorridr660r]

Hobby People has them as of right now, but the cheapest shipping is 6.50, I would order more then that to get your moneys worth.... I am gonna try one of the hobbyshops that I drive by while traveling for work, I am sure he has parts for the mini quake, his wife races one... If they have enough I may buy a few sets of the arms and knukles... we'll see how that goes.
Duster, I think I have another tip for ya, I had a hard time getting the maxamps packs to fit good in the truck, The post that the battery stap goes on are removable, I am just gonna take em off, put a washer or 2 under them and that should make the fit alot better with the GP or KAN cells!!

[Duster_360]

raptorridr660r - I didn't even notice they were removeable. Its the 14ga wire on the batts that prevents them from lying flat. I have a pr of pacs from UnitedRC with 14ga wires and they have no prob fitting. I used an xacto and cut a small notch in the chassis until the pac lies flat. Mine is tight, need a little sqz to get the clips in, but not a real prob. I am going to try a couple of washers, thanks for the tip!

[raptorridr660r]

Yeah, I cut the chassis too, fit but its tight, thats why I am still gonna use washers! My bearings shipped also, so I will let you guys know how they help in the steering as soon as they get here..

[Duster_360]

Yeah, forgot to ask, confirm that the strg needs 4 x 7mm brgs, thats an odd size - nothing I own uses them anywhere. I have yet to find any looking either. Where did you find them - uh, DuraTraxx why isn't this offered as an upgrade??

There should be an alum strg set as a hop-up that would be complete with the brgs and drag link. Thats one of the 1st things I try to do, it makes such an improvement - get rid of the plastic and go to all metal with brgs. Ok, I'll get off my soapbox now.

Have you checked Hobby People for any of the DT hop-ups that TH (an everybody else) is waiting on? Might have to go over there and have a look.

[kurrz]

yeah sorry about the rant im going to order new packs tonight a guy at duratrax made me mad but still love the truck and also have a piranha digital peak and love it

[Duster_360]

Know what you mean - the guy at DT I talked to about my busted outdrives was real friendly until I asked about the ESC probs with brakes. Then he got real huffy with me and if I hadn't decided I didn't want the hassle and let it drop, I'd been po'ed real quickly. They have got some probs, but everybody in the offraod mini market has had probs. Some worse that others. At least, DT seems to be trying to get it right.

[Maxx_A_Million]

... i fried my stock ESC. . . i didnt care, i wanted a better one eventually anyway...

ive got 3 CBP gp1100 packs 14 gauge wire and mine fit pretty snug w/ no chassy mods whatsoever. . . it takes a bit of pushing down to get the batt strap on, but it all fits and its held snug and i didnt have to cut anything...

[Duster_360]

Maxx_A_Million - here's the one I'm installing - don't think you'll beat the price.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=5950789243&rd=1

Which way are you turning the wires - in or out? If you get the pac to fit turning the wires in, CBP must be using a way thinner wrap on their pacs than maxxamps did. My UnitedRC batts fit fine too, but they are 16ga wire. If I had realized you can raise the batt posts, prob could have done without modd the chassis and just raised the posts.

[Strike 4]

Have you gotten the Stega? If so how does it fit in the MQ?


IMPORTANT NOTE FOR T-REX BUYERS!

The T-Rex wont fit unless you move the servo all the way up as far as you can. I have heard from some it will fit with the stock servo at the top and others have said it will but the linkage wont work. I will get some pics of my MQ with Rex soon...

[Duster_360]

I just got it this afternoon, so I haven't put it in yet. But holding it alongside the the stock motor, it's the same length. Measuring diameters, they are both the same. No fitting probs that I can see. Motor wire was supplied, but not soldered to the motor and Mike supplied the dyno report - I got Stegga #5.

Mine is getting pretty much a make over and I'm going to wait for the DT CVDs which Fed-X says will be here Tue next week before getting everything together. New 225MG servo with a kim 131 saver, 330CR ESC, wheel adapters and new wheels and tires. Only thing left stock will be the radio (for now).

[littlebuddha]

wow thats a great deal on a new esc considering i almost paid 25 shipped on a used one :o ya i'm looking at some batteries on ebay, so i'll be sure to get one. about the pinion, is it confirmed that normal mini t/rc18t pinions wont fit? how about ones for the mini giant, doesnt it have comparale sized motors? maybe i'll get the fireball modified...its a thought. :rolleyes:

A quality batt makes quite a diff in accel and runtime. The stock batt was good for about 10 min as long as you weren't running WOT, I had one run all at WOT that was only 6min. With gp1100s, I've seen as much as 20min with lots of hi speed passes back and forth in my driveway. The accel is noticeably faster too. Try it with a good batt before you decide to change pinions - the batt will make that much diff. Sorry your side by side batt wouldn't work - they ought to standardize these things!!

I bought 3 gp1100 pacs from maxxamps.com, but you can also get them from cheapbatterypacs.com, UnitedRC and I think ballistic batts is building them too. CBP is cheapest like 19/ea, but others are within a fewbucks. They are custom pacs - shotgun (or dbl stick) style, no endcaps, get either 18 or 16ga wire and a fem deans connector. Change the conn on the car to a male deans conn - stock conn can melt or fuse together running it hard with better batts, deans is better anyway.

For an esc get that OEM one off ebay made for futaba in either the 230 or 330cr size (my 330 was 32 delivered) - read back a few pgs here and think you'll see it mentioned. Can't find it, lmk and I'll post link. Unless you're missing a tooth off the pinion its fine - most I've talked with don't have the set screw anymore. Suspicious how RCCA got one with "good" ESC - funny how that happens when advertising's concerned isn't it?

[Duster_360]

Be sure any batts you get don't have endcaps - they won't fit without modding the batt compartment. End caps are usually put on to strengthen the pac and you'll get it that way unless you tell them not to use them or find someone who knows the MQ making MQ specific batt pacs and knows to to use them. Team Helotes also has batts for the MQ. I haven't looked on ebay. Like I said try your MQ with a good batt pac before you decide on pinions. DT offers options on pinion and sooner or later, they'll be available.

I don't know if the pinions from mini-t or the vmg will fit. I think the stock MQ motor is bigger than the vmg motor though. What you're looking for is something that'll fit a 2.3mm motor shaft. The stock motor and Stegga are 2.3mm. Trex is a 3.2mm shaft.

[Maxx_A_Million]

duster: yup. . . that's the exactl same speed control i bought. . . from the exact same guy... he elaves good feedback...

as far as the shrink wrap being thinner, i doubt it. . . w/o endcaps they actually double-wrapped it once longways and once shortways. . .

i mde sure to metnion in thec ommenct box to ahve the wires exit off to one side... they put htem coming out of the corner, wich was too far, so all i did was cut away a little shrink wrap and bend the wires back toward the center and i can fit all 3 packs w/o much frustration at all...

and im using 14 gauge wire too. . . it makes no sence at all, but im glad it works!

[CooLJoE8]

Someone early on got them with endcaps and they didn't fit well in the MQ at all. I believe that person ended up removing the end caps to make it fit. Thats how we know not to use the end caps. Also, 14 gauge wire is overkill and contributes to the "doesn't fit well" issue.

What I do is get mine with no end caps and 16 gauge wire. This lets them fit ok. Still slightly snug, but I don't have to cut or move anything to make them work. Infact, I like how its snug, because its just enough to make sure it stays put.

BTW, 16 gauge wire is rated up to 60-75 amps. I highly doubt you'll use more than that in the MQ. If you do, you must be running a SERIOUSLY hot motor AND ESC (since the ESCs only run 16 gauge wire as well).



As for pinions, the big issue is making sure they are 48 pitch METRIC. If they aren't metric, they won't work, since the spur on the MQ is 48 pitch metric.


I might get a new ESC, although I don't care for the Futaba MC330CRs and copycats. From what I heard, its not a normal forward/brake/reverse setup. You have come to a stop, put trigger to center, and then its in reverse mode where you pull the trigger (like for going forward) to move in reverse. To get back to forward, you do the same thing....hit brakes til you are stopped, go back to center, then use throttle again. I could be wrong, but thats what I heard from someone who has an MC330CR.

[Duster_360]

Agree - the 14ga is too much wire - the pacs I got from UnitedRC have 14ga and they fit better. I've read some comments could even use 18ga and that be enough wire, but I wanted to match the gage on the ESC and that OEM330CR is 16ga. My 14ga packs were bought when CPB was out of gp1100s and know one knew for how long.

Maxx_A_Million - thanks for the tip - I will peel back some of the heat shrink on these and move the wires over more toward center. Should make everything fit better.

CoolJoe8 - if thats the way the ESC works (setup instructions not real clear about this), then just use the option to cancel reverse. I don't run a reverse on any my nitros, and don't really want it on my MQ. This ESC has a race reverse cancellation feature, so that should make that prob go away - instructions are pretty clear here - brakes only after the cancel procedure.

[littlebuddha]

ya i think the double pmp systems for the futaba escs are really great at preventing accidental reversings, even the new novak xrs has the same system. a quick double trigger will get you going back in a hurry without the brakes. its just way easier to control the car it seems to work better for me than the super roosters etc and other systems i've used.that way you never really need to turn the reverse off (unless ur racing of course). from the revirsible esc guide in the latest rccaraction issue, the futaba one seemed best for me.

how do you turn the esc reverse off?? is it in the instructions? i gusss i'd better take a look.

[Duster_360]

Yep, its in the instructions - just turn it on while holding the set button down and rev is locked out.

CoolJoe8 made it sound like everytime you brake with one of these ESC and let the tx go back to neutral, the next time you pulled the throttle it would be in reverse - did I read that wrong? The instructions are not clear at all to me on this. If it takes a double pump to engage reverse, then thats a lot diff and won't be a prob at all. From the feedback I've seen over at one18th, these OEM330CR ESCs are going to be great. I'm goint to find out in the next week, I've started tearing mine down to get ready to switch all this stuff out. Fed-X still says I'll have the DT alum CVDs Tues next week and should be the last piece of my make over.

[raptorridr660r]

Let us know how everything goes Duster, I have not installed my 330 esc yet either, waiting on a few other things. I am still not sure what I wanna do about the cvds, I was thinking about the topcad or atomics ones, but in a way I wanna see what fix dtx has for the outdrives first. the only other thing I don't have yet is a stonger motor, other then that mine will be all set. I think the bearings I ordered for the steering will be here monday, so I will let you guys know how they work out, I also see that there are aluminum bellcranks out now, 20 bux at rcmart, If these bearings tighten everything up, I will just keep the stock plastic.

[Duster_360]

Thing I don't like about the othet CVDs is the spring business thats needed to keep them engaged. Hopefully, the DT ones will be effective. I got my ICE yesterday an right now I'm off to start messing with that. Maybe later this pm, I'll start tearing into mine. I will keep you posted on how its going. This thing should be like a rocket. From all the Trex probs going on over at one18th, looks like I made the better choice on with the Stegga. I'm sure Mike will get it all ironed out where its a near dropin (new motorplate), but for now, they're having probs.

Have you ordered from rcmart - thats in Hong Kong, right? Strg set and tbs look tempting, but I don't want to be waiting for weeks either. The MQ's (MRX4) only $99, wow, guess shipping would be costly??

[raptorridr660r]

I have not ordered from them, but dinball on ebay stores sell alot of these parts, with cheap shipping it looks like too.

[littlebuddha]

guys, what do you think of this battery. i own a kyosho hor, and it shares the same battery style with the mini quake. its gp cells.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2565&item=5950444379&rd=1

[raptorridr660r]

Looks good, but for the same price you could get some from CBP and get em faster, unless they sold out again...

[Duster_360]

This is the same batt I've had built by maxxamps and unitedrc - only diff is mine have black heat shrink and a deans. It will be a great batt.

Where do you live? If US, then with shipping, you're looking at $25 delivered the slow way. CBP, or maxxamps will be cheaper and deliver faster for the same batt. If you don't want the deans connector, you can get the hpi mini conn, both offer it. CPB's would cost $18.60 and maxxamps would be $19.99, shipping would be additional. If you need the details on what and how to order - these are custom pacs, lmk, glad to help out.

Just checked - both show gp1100s in stock.

[jottney]

cheapbatterypacks.com is where i just got 3 gp1100 packs for $19.10 each and shipping to new york was $5.85....total $63.13!!! if you wanna make your own pack they sell them for $2.35 for a singles cell (gp1100). it seemed like a pretty good deal to me

[littlebuddha]

wow, thanks guys, i went to the site. apparently they have 2 differnet packs for the mini quake, ones like 12 and the other 18. whats the difference? here are the names-

C6CBP1150DS-NC

NIMH

and
C6GP1100DS-NC

NIMH

the second one (the more expensive one) seems like gp cells, but judging by the numbers it acutally has a lower capacity, 1100 to 1150?? can anyone shed a light to this, the website doenst have much info. thanks.

[jottney]

i think that is the difference....i went to the link "custom packs" and just "built" accordingly

[raptorridr660r]

EDIT, went back to the site, they actually have 3 packs for the mini quake
C6KAN1050DS-NC, that is the KAN cells, not sure what cells the 12 pack is, but I would stay with GP or KAN, the kan pack is 14 bucks
also looks like the part number is a break down of the pack
c6 = 6 cell
kan1050 = type of cell and capacity
ds = double shotgun
NC must be the connector
going by that the 12 packs uses their own cells??

[littlebuddha]

so it looks like the KAN cells are as good if not better than the gp? plus they have higher capacity and is cheaper. so go for the KAN cells? 1150. why is gp better?

[raptorridr660r]

actually the 1150s are something else, the KAN cells are only 1050, I will edit the top part of my post out, and I am not 100% sure why the GP are better, but they will probably take more abuse and last longer, and I am sure there are more reasons...

[Duster_360]

I thought the KANs were a little bigger in diameter and that's the reason no one's recommended them for the MQ, they don't fit readily - but now we know you can add a few washers under the battery posts, guess they could fit.

GP are just better quality, better construction, better chemical uniformity, etc, Don't know where the KAN are from, but the 1150s are Chinese. Look at the higher mah batts - the 3300s, everybody uses GPs to build pacs with. Thisis going to be one of those you get what you pay for type deals, the GPs will perform better and longer than the others. My GPs are charging to 1165-1180 anyway - trick used by elec guys - input higher capacity than the rated capacity, I charge them like they're 1200mah.

[CooLJoE8]

Different strokes for different folks. I don't care for the double-pump reverse stuff. And I think I said the directions wrong. Its like once you get to a stop, you hit brake again and it engages reverse, I think. I could be wrong, but thats how I understood it from someone that owns an 330CR. I've run R/Cs for a long time and races them, so I guess I'm used to managing myself into not using brake or turning it off on the ESC (which most have the ability to do these days). And when I want to use reverse, I want it right away instead of after a few moments. But thats my preference.


As for the battery types, GP1100s are better because they can provide higher amp rates than the KAN and CBP batteries. I think the CBP are the 1150, and the extra 50mah isn't going to be noticable. On top of the amp supply ability, GPs are also a better battery overall.


The only issues I know about for the Trex are the motor plate (which was mentioned in the motor ad, so anyone who bought one and is upset over having to modify the plate,....well its their fault for not reading the ad. Otherwise, you have to move the servo forward 5mm, which he didn't mention, but its not hard to do or a permanent modification. Otherwise, people are blowing diffs, but thats because the motor is doing its job......its a powerful motor and was stated as such in the thread he made and the ad for the motor. All you gotta do is use a higher pinion (which gives the benefit of higher speeds and saves your diffs). I have one on the way, and can't wait to try it out.

[kurrz]

the nc at the end stands for no caps the gps are a better cell they can discharge at over 30 amps whereas the cbp1150s can discharge between 10 and 20 and i have read though the cbp 1150s are cheaper than the kans 1050s they are a better cell hope this helps

[guver]

WOW I just got the MQ and here's my first impressions. It seems pretty cool. It also seems way overgeared. I was trying to run in the house. I think I only got about 5 minutes run-time.

does that seems right ? 5 minutes?

[Duster_360]

Did you charge the battery? I only used stock battery for a few days, but starting with it charged and doing nothing but high speed passes outside, I got 6 min run time. If I was not doing a lot of hi speed passes, I got about 8 -10mins runtime. 5 min running in the house is shorth though, would expect charged stock batt to do better - NiCds can get better as they are used, so runtime may get better with use. You will appreciate what a better batt will do for your MQ. Need to get a couple.

Go over to one18th.com, offroad forums and look up the MQ forum. There is a FAQ about the MQ stickied at the top - worth the time and answers a lot of questions.

Be careful with fast fwd to rev changes, those are hard on the outdrives and they're typically the 1st thing that breaks. At one18.com there's a thread about re-programming the esc to help the life of outdrives, may want to read that while you're there. Mine is down for broken outdrives right now - 1 in front and 1 in rear. Waiting on parts....

[guver]

Hi, great tips. I will check our 18/th I did charge the batt (it went about 500mah) Next time might be 600. I think a 1100 battery would be a good cheap upgrade.

I set the esc to my radio, but didn't know I could reprogramm. I'll check that site and see how. thanks again for the info.

[guver]

I did what that said about leaving the tx in neutral , it works real good. Still only gettin' 500 mah though.

[Duster_360]

I've been working on the make over of my MQ and have encountered a prob installing my Stegga motor. Seems the pinion (which looks like its plastic) is actually metal and pressed on the motor shaft. Its a typical interference type fit and its prob going to require a small gear puller type tool to get it off.

Even if I could get it off, I don't have any way to press it on the Stegga I'm trying to install. To further complicate matters, the od of the pinion is larger than the hole in the end of the motor mount plate, so until I get the pinion off, I can't even get the motor plate free. Another pinion with a set screw would help, but it would have to be a steel pinion since this motor shaft is smooth and it'll need the strength of steel for the set screw to get a good "bite" on the motor shaft and then I'd need a new motor plate.

Anybody else buy one by chance and already solved these issues??

[Maxx_A_Million]

i'd like to announce that im the first to get a mini quake doing both a backflip and a frotnflip on tape. . .

2 backflips and a front flip. . .

simply awesome. . . and all wiht the stock motor. . .

i'd liek to get the trex motor once metal diffs are out and i get my CVDs. . .

anyway... this thread is getting long. . . we need to get 2 or 3 threads going to deal wiht given things. . .

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, took my mini quake for a ride today in the snow and fried the esc, lol. another excuse to finally get that oem futaba esc, the only problem, dont know how to fit it to the mini quake cause i dont have soldering irons. thinking about getting the associated one too though. i ordered the battery though, guess i'll be waiting to try it.

[Duster_360]

I am a little less bummed over my Stegga prob - Tower has the stock 16t pinions (with set screw) in stock and I've ordered a couple so I'll get past this pressed on pinion prob. It'll cost me the stock motor since I'll have to destroy it to get the motor mount plate off, but that's not that big a deal. Onward!

littlebuddha - sorry to hear about your fried esc. I was looking at my oem330CR tonight to see what has to be done and its going to take soldering to get it done. It comes with a tamiya batt conn and thats got to be changed. The motor wires come with a fem push pin type connector and those will have to be changed, so there's soldering thats got to be done. If the AE comes with similar conns to the stock one, would def be a better way to go it you can't get the soldering done.

[CooLJoE8]

I am a little less bummed over my Stegga prob - Tower has the stock 16t pinions (with set screw) in stock and I've ordered a couple so I'll get past this pressed on pinion prob. It'll cost me the stock motor since I'll have to destroy it to get the motor mount plate off, but that's not that big a deal. Onward!

Have you tried using a flathead screwdriver or something along those lines?

- Loosen (or remove) the set screw
- Put the flat head against the motor shaft between the pinion and motor can
- Push down on the screwdriver handle (pushing towards motor), using the motor can as leverage to lift the pinion off the motor shaft.

It worked fine for me. Although my pinion wasn't a tight fit, so it didn't require much pressure.

[littlebuddha]

sorry to hear about the pinion problems, it really sux. anyways i was almost about to get the novak spy to replace my esc, but it seems that its motor limit is 280. i dont think it will be enought to handle the mini quake motor?

[Duster_360]

There's no set screw on mine nor on anyone else's I've compared mine with. Yeah, I tried one screwdriver and when I realized its wasn't moving I then tried opposing screwdrivers so I wouldn't bend the stock motor shaft. Believe me, my pinion won't move - an its moot point anyway, even if I get it off, how am I going to get it on the Stegga shaft?? I recognize an interference fit when I encounter one.

To have been prepared for this, I should've had a spare pinion and motor mount plate. Then just assembled the Stegga on the new plate with a new pinion and been on to getting it soldered into the wiring and left teh stock motor mounted with its pressed on pinion alone.

There have obviously been changes made in prpoduction as these were produced an anyone considering major changes would do well to read as much as they can an look at their MQ before getting surprised like I did.

Now when my CVDs show up tomorrow, I'll still be down waiting on my next tower order with the pinion and motor plate I need.

[raptorridr660r]

Got and installed my bearings in the bellcranks today! Worked as I thought, took out most of the rest of the slop up there, most of the movement left is flexing of the knuckles. At least I have some spares, I have a feeling that is now the weakest part up front for sure... They are 4x7mm and DTX part #DTXC1507
Let us know about the stegga, a motor is next on my list, well that and the cvds I still have not ordered...

[Duster_360]

Thanks for the brg number - you find them local or have to order? I think only thing that will truly take out all the strg slop will be the alum strg set and alum knuckles that are listed in the manual - haven't seen anybody carry it, but DT mentions it in the manual DTXC8862, alum bellcranks and DTXC8209 alum knuckle set. Tower doesn't list either. Wonder whats up with that??

I'll keep you posted on Stegga, but its going to be a while - hope to be burning batts next weekend. Had teh day off, should have been burning batts today - was a real nice day here.

I've got to make a decision on how to connect the new esc to the rest of the wiring. Batt conn is obvious. Those push connectors intended for the motor - MQ has a mini HPI conn there now, I either put another deans or hard wire them to the motor tabs which I like cause its cleaner, one less connection, know of any probs doing it that way? Thanks

[raptorridr660r]

I ordered mine at tower with some other parts I needed for my savage, I would like to get my hands on the aluminum knuckles, you can get the aftermarket bellcranks on ebay for 20 bucks, but I wll pass on those for now.

[Duster_360]

OK, parts for my next order...Thanks. I want to see what it steers like with brgs instead of bushings, TI tbs, new servo, CVDs, wheels and tires before I change anything else in the suspension. If I do decide to do more, I'll wait for the DT hop-ups.

I'm curious, I know you got your ICE, I got mine Fri and can't believe how much it'll do. What are you running for a power supply?

[Maxx_A_Million]

... i soldered my 330 oem thing straight to the motor. . . it's a tight fit wihtt he thicker wires and youve got to bend the tabs all the way up... but it fits...

anyway, i think ive fried my front and rear diffs. . . i didnt know i could do that wiht the stock outdrives being as weak as they are. . .

something clicks, but its not an outdrive. . . it's something inside the diff. . . i dunno *** is it. . . i just hope it's spider gears and not the ring/pinion. . . i ahve no problemr unnign with trashed spider gears (ill just lock whatever diff si worse and stick it in back) but if its ring/pinion im pretty screwed...

alum knuckle set? awesome. . . lmk when someody has news. . .

im guessing we can just look to rcmart before DTX spits em out. . . ;)

also, my lunsford turnbuckles RULE... couldnt ahve done ANYTHING if i hadnt been able to dial in some serious toe-in for my bash session... theres some binding in my ghetto knuckle fix and the stering doesnt quite return to center from right. . . so toe-in helped ALOT...

firefox is abotu to crap out though, so GL with that stuff...

[raptorridr660r]

Duster, I am just using a modded PC power supply, I get 12.14v and 10 amps outta the thing, so it will work for now.
Maxx.. I am hoping that someone will comeout with metal spider gears and other parts, I hate the idea of plastic in the diffs.. I was thinking about just putting a deans connector on the stock motors wires and going to the 330 that way, to save some room in there and so I can easily change it out with the stocker if I have a problem.. Anyways, let us know what parts went in your mq when you get it figured out.

[Duster_360]

Maxx_A_Million - thanks for the tip on soldering the 330 directly to the motor, Thats what I'll plan on doing.

Don't have any experience with MQ diffs, but when a Tmaxx is clicking, its usually a tooth or two gone of the ring gear. Hope its spider in this case- tower has those (diff gear set dtxc7412). I bought one to get the outdrives.

Lunsford is plenty proud of their stuff price wise. Were the ball studs right size or were they bigger and you had to drill out the orig holes to install? I know TI is expensive, but geez.....

[raptorridr660r]

I have had the front diff go out 2 times on my savage, both times it was the spider gears shattered in 100s of pieces, but I know this is a different animal, I have only run my mini on wooden floors so far, so no broken parts yet, but wait till it gets nice outside :) The poor mini quake is gonna be in some trouble!!!

[ChumsGum]

Got and installed my bearings in the bellcranks today! Worked as I thought, took out most of the rest of the slop up there, most of the movement left is flexing of the knuckles. At least I have some spares, I have a feeling that is now the weakest part up front for sure... They are 4x7mm and DTX part #DTXC1507
Let us know about the stegga, a motor is next on my list, well that and the cvds I still have not ordered...

Bearings in the bellcranks? Hmm, I may just try that until these lovelies from rcmart.com are sold here in the US.
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/images/topcad_mrx-002_bu.jpg

[jottney]

i just ordered some atomic cvd's, titanium turnbuckles, bearings and bellcranks, and a stegga. what should i do about the pinion? does anyone know where i can buy some aluminum knuckles??

[Duster_360]

Do you have a set screw in your pinion? If you don't, then I would order another stock pinion and maybe a motor mount plate from Tower and leave your stock motor, pinion and motor mount plate alone - just set it aside. Take the 2 screws that mount the motor to the motor plate - you'll need those.

Its hit or miss getting the pressed on pinion off and you may not be able to get it on the Stegga anyway cause it's such a tight fit. I've tried getting mine off an all I've done is destroy the stock motor which I didn't want to do.

The stock motor won't come off the motor mount plate until the pinion is off so, I just ordered a new motor mount plate too (its like $3). They are both in stock at Tower. I want to be able to re-use my stock motor. Pinion is DTXC8353 and motor plate is DTXC8278. If you don't mind destroying your stock motor, you can do without buying the motor plate - just cut the shaft off and that'll free the motor plate to re-use with the Stegga.

If you have the set screw, you shouldn't need anything - loosen set screw and the pinion should come off - some were loose enough that they would come off just pulling on it, others needed a little help - pry gently with tip of a thin flat balded screwdriver.

[jottney]

yeah i'd have to pry it off...ill order a new pinion and motor mount, i should use the stock pinion? what combo between the pinion and spur gives you different results?

[raptorridr660r]

Chumsgum, you can get that set up on ebay, just serch for mrx-4, it is the same truck as the mini quake! there are several parts for it on there...

[Duster_360]

Unforfortunately, right now there's nothing available except the stock 16t pinion. DT shows a 13t and a 19t in the manual where they list parts and hop-ups, but no one has them - tower lists them but they're on order like most of the hopup parts. RCMart has these 3 pinions too (made by somebody else, don't remember), but there overseas. I'm going to stick with the 16t until tower gets the others. I'll eventually get the 19t - I want top end and with the Stegga, won't lose any low end because its stronger motor.

The 13t would give you more torque (grunt or pulling power), but slower top speed where the 19t would give you less torque but more top speed. I haven't seen anyone offering any options on spurs.

My DT CVDs just arrived, look nice too. At least I can go get that done while I wait on the pinion which has been mailed - waiting on USPS.

[jottney]

robinson racing offers 48 pitch pinion gears from 12t - 22t i believe

[Duster_360]

I think those are for 3.2mm shaft. Stock and Stegga are 2.3mm shafts. I'll look into it, but at one18.com, told RRP's pinions (3.2mm) will only work with the TRex motor. Note on RRPs site they never mention shaft diameter - apparently 3.2mm is standard.

The RRP spurs will work, but require "shimming" the motor shaft - don't remember where I read it, but you can carefully wrap a single thickness of black elec tape around the 2.3mm shaft and the 3.2mm will work if you get the tape on without too much overlap. I'll run stock until hopup pinions are available.

[Maxx_A_Million]

so far, the ball studs and turnbuckles are awesome. . .

my ghetto knuckle mod had me drifting right in throttle and left off-throttle. . .

w/o adjustable turnbuckles its impossible to drive. . .

so now ive got about 2 degrees of toe in on the rear and ride height and about 4 in front (toes out when the nose dives)

theyre freakin awesome. . .

the threads seem to be just a tiny bit bigger thant he stock ones. . . but it's all good. . . plan on removing the back skidplate to get them suckers out as well as the bellcranks. . . haha...

i say its worth it. . . plus the lunsford decals look really sweet on my MQ...

[guver]

Can someone estimate the average and peak amp draw of the stock set-up? thanks

I'm trying to figure it out. ( If my 600 mah lasts 6 minutes then it is 6 amps average?)

[Duster_360]

If you account for the diff in min and hrs, you'd calc
600mah / (6min*1hr/60min) = 6000ma or 6.0amp, so yes, average wise, if your batt actually can deleiver 600mah and you use it in 6 min, your averge amp draw is 6amps.

I haven't seen it quoted for this motor, but figure I saw for a more powerful motor was peak of 30 (split second) and then level out to 5amps. Suspect the stock motor is less than that (was quoted for TRex motor).

I got about the same run time from teh stock batt but only if I was making WOT passes back and forth in my driveway. WHen I would slow down and only make occassional high speed passes, would get a little over 10min.

[guver]

Ok thanks, that sounds about right.

[Maxx_A_Million]

... i think the stock battery is only good for about 10 amps. . . get some GP1100s. . . screw 600mah and screw 10 amps. . . double your runtime and triple your amperage capacity. . .

i also reccomend a better speed control, as the stock one didnt seem to like all the extra work of my gp1100s. . . hehe... it gave up that magic electrical white smoke. . .

[guver]

I'm under the impression that the esc is good for 50 amps peak.

I have the batts 1100's already.

I think duster has it about right of 30 amps peak for the motor.

[Duster_360]

My 1100s avg 20+min runtime, depending one exactly what I'm going. If lots of hi-speed passes, won't make 20, but 14-16min. If mix of driving around with some hi-speed passes, I've gotten 23-25min. I was at 22min and running when a fr and rear outdrive went. Stock esc has been good to me - was just using it to center the 225mg servo I'm fitting.

Did anybody find 3 or 4 thin plastic shims in their diff when they fixed a busted read outdrive? I left them there, but the rear diff is a whole lot stiffer than the front. When you test the diffs, you really notice how much more effort it takes to turn the rear. I wonder if I should go back now while chassis is still bare and pull some of those shims out and see if it frees up the rear. Any way this may be deliberate to give it more of a locked rear diff?? Sure is not shown in the manual. Anybody find shims in theirs??

[guver]

That sounds great for run-time. I did notice when new the wheels were all very hard to turn, well not the wheels, but the diffs. Mine have loosened up considerably.

ps I have a set screw on pinion too.

[Duster_360]

You must have gotten yours some time ago?? I got mine in early Jan and others from near that same time do not have a set screw.

[AE_racer38]

i got mine on the fifth of january,and it has a setscrew on the pinion. also my outdrives are holding up well. i'll probably break one now.lol

[guver]

I just timed again and got 8 minutes. Towards the end it is very doggy like I might have 1 or 2 cell going flat sooner than the rest. I did charge up to 500 once, but have used a timer since then. I will have to test the discharge and see.

[littlebuddha]

i got mine on the fifth of january,and it has a setscrew on the pinion. also my outdrives are holding up well. i'll probably break one now.lol

did you get yours from ultimate hobbies during christmas sale? how is your esc? does it have brakes. this set screw thing is really bothering me, and if i have to destroy the motor to take it off thats gonna really sux. is it possible for me to send it back to duratrax (if i can get it off) for a one with the set screw?

anyways i got an rc18 xps esc for replacement. hopefully it will come by tommrow. think it will be great! let you know how it goes.

[Duster_360]

Yeah, mine came from Ultimate's Xmas sale. Right up to when I quit using it, the stock esc was fine - no probs, no brakes though. Stock batt was fine too.

There's no way I can get the pinion off short of cutting shaft - I've tried. But its a so what - even if you did get if off, how are you going to get it on another shaft if its that tight? Anyone who has sent anything back to DT has waited for like 7weeks to get it back, so no, I wouldn't send it back to DT.

If you're changing motors like I am, go to tower, order new stock pinion ($4.19) which they say has the set screw and get a new motor mount plate ($2.69) - leave the stock one alone (can't get motor plate off the motor until pinion is off), take the screws off you need and put the new motor on the new plate and install the new pinion - the manual will show you how pinion needs to be spaced and use some loctite on the set screw!!

I'm installing that OEM330CR esc gotten from ebay. Heard nothing but good reports about it.

guver - sounds like may have a weak cell or 2. Ques - you running it inside? Cold will decrease runtime.

[guver]

Yes, I'm inside a lot of stop and start too. sounds like you have to make a tiny puller and heat the pinion up to remove. I never understood how a pinion could stay with a press fit, but that one really must have interference.

What is gear made of and is there a flat or anykind of spline? or just a round shaft?

[Duster_360]

Way it was explained - its a round shaft with no flat for a set screw to engage. Worry is about a flat causing an out of balance condition. Thus the need for an interference fit. Pinion appears to be steel since its magnetic.

I know there are classes of interference fits - used to be 3, don't know if thats been changed. The classes determined by amount of direct interference between mating parts, 1 was the least aggressive and 3 was the most. Failing to remove it by means I would have expected to work, I suspect its not the least agressive one. Have heard of others breaking pullers and failing to remove the pinion. Have not tried heating - again, if its this hard to get off how I'm going to get it back on the other motor without damaging it, bending the shaft or getting it out of balance??

[guver]

Apply puller, then heat. That seems so strange to have it on so tite....

You'd have to press it back on. You could also hone it out and drill and tap for screw, but would be cheaper to get a new one....

[littlebuddha]

ya guys it seems to be made of steel, i checked mine today and it was RUSTING?? its crazy, maybe i should have wiped it off more thoroughly after play, but all the more reason to change it!

[Duster_360]

This just keeps getting better all the time....

The postman left me my tower order little while ago and the new pinion I bought has no set screw! THE NEW PINION IS JUST LIKE THE STOCK PINION. #@&%!!!

I've checked the Stegga and stock motor shaft diameter is .090. Using some letter drills as a plug gage, the hole in the pinion is .086 - its .004 smaller than the shaft.

So right now the Stegga is in my freezer and tonight (6 hrs), I'll heat the pinion up to 275 in the oven and hope I can get them assembled. I'd have never done this if I had know what a royal PIA this was going to be!

[raptorridr660r]

That sucks, I am surprized there is no set screw in the new pinion!! I also got mine from ultimate, no set screw and no brakes, but everything has held up fine on mine, mostly because I have only run it on my wooden floor. Anyone else have any use on one of the styles of CVDs yet? I am still not sure which kind I want, kinda waiting for some reviews....

[Duster_360]

I've installed a set of the DT CVDs but obviously haven't used them yet. They look nice, but I'm a little bothered that there is maybe 1/8" of play in them allowing the wheels to move in and out slightly. I've been told I have them assembled correctly. I guess I am going to add a small pc of fuel tbg at the dog bone end to take that slop out.

The outdrive repair is a snap once you see what it is you need to take apart. It took longer to figure that out that to do it. I wouldn't be afraid of breaking them, they will fail sooner or later.

Also, I decided to keep the stock brass ball ends and use the TI tbs with them so I don't change the suspension geometry. The stock balls end are .149" and the gpm were .147 - so no prob there. Since it appears to be rare that brass balls are breaking, I figure they'll work fine. Did you figure out something to do for the link between the servo arm and strg bell crank?? Only piece I have yet to deal with. Working on getting the servo installed while I'm wating for everything to cool down. Can't believe the hassle with that!!

[raptorridr660r]

I decided to leave the stock setup from the servo to the bellcranks for now, wanted a weak spot in there for now since something will have to break eventually :) Might mess with it if i decide to put one of my mg servos in there, but its not hurting anything right now. I am also leaving the stock motor for a while, its plenty fast in the house and it will be a while before the weather gets nice at all here.. Maybe there will be more options there soon too. Good luck getting yours back together..

[Duster_360]

I bought a kimbrough mini servo saver ands it looks like it'll work, maybe a little tight, but mocked it up last night and looked like it will fit. I guess I'm going to trim one of the leftover TBs to size and use that as that last link. If the mini saver wont fit, I'll keep the stock link to protect the servo.

[jottney]

just got my stegga and new battery packs today...ill let you know if the pinion and stegga have problems...anyway, im new to electrics and i was charging the stock battery pack (600mAh) at 1amp, can i charge the new battery packs (gp1100's) at 2 amps?? it would save me about a 1/2 hour if i can charge them at 2amps.

[guver]

You can charge gp 1100's at 2 amps. Not the best for battery life, b ut I know I'm always in hurry.

[raptorridr660r]

I installed the MC330CR ESC today (ebay one) and for some reason, after the first time I did the setup, it will not run the motor???? I have power and steering, but no motor, tried the setup a few more times and still nothing., not getting any beeps or anything, anyone have a clue what could be wrong? It was working, just not setup right before I used the setup button... I also have a stock battery in there with a deans, just off the charger, does the battery not have enough power? I have a GP pack charging now to try that......

[kurrz]

hey guys just got my cbp 1150s and within 3 minutes snapped my first outdrive so i put on my one pair of cvds and they work well the 1150s give it way more power cant wait to run it outside

[jottney]

i ran mine with these gp1100's without putting the stegga in and it's already off the wall!!! (compared to the stock batt.) unbelievable!!! i cant wait to put the stegga in it. thanks for recommending the gp's

[raptorridr660r]

Update on ESC, still not working even with GP cells :( I put the stocker back in and all is well, so I must have gotten a bad ESC. Oh well, I emailed the guy who is selling them to see what he can do, hopefully there is at least a no DOA policy or something. Did you try yours out yet Duster? I hope you have better luck with it then I did..

[CooLJoE8]

Regarding the new pinion - Odd, very odd. I have the 13T pinion from Duratrax. Its blue (which is different), but it also has a set screw. I'd be surprised to hear that the 19T doesn't have one, unless thats what you have.

[Duster_360]

No, I wanted the 19, but couldn't find it anywhere. I was buying what the manual showed as having a set screw, DTXC8353, but when it arrived, another pinion with out a set screw, just like was in my MQ when I got it.
Either some production changes occurred, or maybe there was more than one subcontractor for motors and one used pinions and the other did not. Prob never know.

However, the heat and cold did the trick!! FINALLY!! I have the Stegga mounted with a stock 16t pressed on pinion ready to move on to other issues in my upgrading. I even assembled another stock motor so I have it to fall back on if needed/wanted. What a royal PIA!!

Cooljoe8 - do you have the ~1/8" outward wheel movement with your DT CVDs? There's nothing at the knuckle that appears to hold the CVD end. I though that c clip snapped into the knuckle, but mine seems to bottom on inner wheel brg before it gets there. Just checking to see if yours went together the same way.

raptorridr660r - no, but I will be trying it soon. I hope doesn't give me any probs - I feel like I have paid my dues enough already. Sorry to hear yours doesn't appear to work correctly. Contact that guy and see what he says. I hope he'll stand behind it.

[Duster_360]

kurrz, jottney - best recommendation I've seen for charging is over on unitedrc's website. they recommend 1.5a for 1st 5 charges and then try charge at 2amp watching temps carefully. If temp ok, charge at 2a. If proves too hot, stay at 1.5amps. Best compromise between life and punch.

Told you that a decent batt would make a real diff!! Let us know how the 1150s seem to work out. There a lot of price diff and I would like to know how they perform and take to charging.

raptorridr660r - how did you connect at the motor? I plan on cutting those push/pull conns off and soldering straight to motor. No way you got the +/- mixed? 1st one I've heard of thats had a prob.

[raptorridr660r]

I have a deans on the motor and both ESCs so I could use either incase there was ever a problem, and sure enough there was already, I plugged the stock esc back in and its working just fine... I already email the guy from ebay, I'll let you know what he says..

[Duster_360]

I've never installed an ESC - is there a procedure you're supposed to follow when installing?? Good luck with the seller over the problem.

[Maxx_A_Million]

the setup is a bit tricky wiht the mc3300. . .

hold the set button for a few seconds, let go and itll beep/blink once i think...
hold WOT and press the button...
itll beep/blink twice or something... hold WOR (full reverse) and hit the set button again...
i think itll stay solid and not blink, so return to neutral and press the button again...

that should ahve you good to go. . .

good luck

duster: congrats.. haha

mine came with a pinion... dunny why or why yours didnt. . . but im glad mine did ;)

somehting i need to gripe about... who read the feb issue of RCCA wiht the review of the MQ...

did you also read the itsy bitsy spider reivew?

it states in said IBS review that theyre testing the prebuilt version. . . and at the top right of the first page it says "vehicle tested as shown"...

so basically, theyre running an itsy bitsy spyder with gp1100s, an FM radio, and probably a mini mahcines mod motor. . . and then in the verdict or whatever it says "and it easily walked kevs mini quake"...

i feel that's an unfair statement. . . its like running a t4 with a stock motor and 1500 sport pack vs a t4 with a 14 turn and gp3300 cells...

i think that needs to be addressed in an upcoming issue. . . i wrote but never got a responce. . .

kev needs to hop up his mini quake and see if it still gets "walked" by the damn itsy bitsy spider...
whos with me??

[AE_racer38]

did you get yours from ultimate hobbies during christmas sale? how is your esc? does it have brakes. this set screw thing is really bothering me, and if i have to destroy the motor to take it off thats gonna really sux. is it possible for me to send it back to duratrax (if i can get it off) for a one with the set screw?
i got mine from tower hobbies,no it doesn't have brakes. i've been doing a little research and found that battery packs,pinions,and motors designed for the kyosho motorcycles will work in the MQ. at least all the specs are the same i.e. can size,shaft diameter,pack configuration,pinions are metric 48 pitch. i think they'll work. :cool:

[littlebuddha]

whoa, really?? i got a couple of kyosho hor motorbikes. the stock pinions are plastic press ons but i also have a couple of metal ones from gpm, theyre still press on ones i think though. the batteries defientely are the same. the motor i dont see how it will fit because the stock ones are tiny compared to mini quake motors, and would be a downgrade (really slow), but i'll let you guys know if the pinions will fit. tommorows friday!!

PS- you guys should get the hor, its a great bike and the most fun i've had with r/c in a long while!

[littlebuddha]

i just checked! and the kyosho hor pinions- i got kyosh hard pinion gear set, and they do have set screws!! thats great, now to check to see if they fit on the mini quake.

counted the teeth, theyre 10, 12 and 15 i think.

[AE_racer38]

i should have clarified that. it was the hardened pinion gear set,and the grand prix modified bearing motor,all supposedly for the HOR bikes.and i found a pre-assembled pack of gp1100's for the HOR/MQ on ebay :cool:

[Duster_360]

When you can, please post a kyosho part number for that hardened pinion. I'd like to see one. Nice find you guys!

Maxx_A_Million - I have the instructions that came with the 330cr and they are not real clear but read a little dif fthat you remember. I will follow them closely and hope I don't have probs. I didn't catch the comment, but I'll go back and look. Reading the IBS thread here sure doesn't make you wanmt to run out and but one. I don't care for the way it looks.

[AE_racer38]

LXU766 is the tower part number for the pinions,LXW903 is the part number for the motor. i hope that motor works,it looks pretty fast.i think the hardened pinions might only work on the bearing motor.

[littlebuddha]

i was just examinig the hor motor, and it seems way smaller than the mini quake motor, i think the stock and the grand prix motor are both 280 size, so i'm not sure how much more powerful it would be compared to the stock mini quake motor. i'm upgrading my stock hor motor with a rc18t motor, which is abou the same size. i tired to see if a stock losi mini-t motor would fit, but its very tight, so i'm not so sure if the motor will fit the mini quakes motor mount, unless the bearinged motor is larger than the stock one.

[AE_racer38]

i was just examinig the hor motor, and it seems way smaller than the mini quake motor, i think the stock and the grand prix motor are both 280 size, so i'm not sure how much more powerful it would be compared to the stock mini quake motor. i'm upgrading my stock hor motor with a rc18t motor, which is abou the same size. i tired to see if a stock losi mini-t motor would fit, but its very tight, so i'm not so sure if the motor will fit the mini quakes motor mount, unless the bearinged motor is larger than the stock one.
here are the specs from the tower site:mini quake stock motor
SPECS: Length: 1.71" (44mm) (not including shaft)
Diameter: 1.09" (27.68mm)
Shaft diameter: 2.30mm
Shaft length: .34" (8.6mm)

kyosho bearing motor
SPECIFICATIONS: Outside Diameter: 24mm (15/16")
Length: 40mm (1 9/16"), with shaft 49mm (1 15/16")
Ball Bearing: 2
Length of exposed shaft: 7mm (5/16"), shaft is grooved 2mm
as you can see they are close in specs,but the kyosho motor is a 28 turn,ball bearing mod motor with replaceable brushes.
i might have to give it a try.

[littlebuddha]

sounds good, its a little less wide in diameter. i just saw a mini-t with the same kyosho motor, so it looks good, but will any motor fit onto the motor mount? i though the motor mount screws for the mini quake motor is spaced a bit differnet from the norm. if thats the case then i guess any aftermarket motor trinity, peak et all can fit. the peak chubby?lol.

[AE_racer38]

a little creative dremeling and anything will fit the stock mount.lol i want this darn thing doing wheelies without having to do the reverse to forward trick!

[AE_racer38]

here is a pic of the motor

the pinions are designed to work with that motor.

[raptorridr660r]

I tried everything and it won't work, He email me back and gave me an adress to send it to, if its bad, he will send a new one. I am glad he is willing to work, hopefully the new one will work!

[Duster_360]

Thats great that he is working with you - most of the feedbackon that ESC has been that its a good one. Hope he turns it around for you quickly. I know you want ot be using it.

[jottney]

well guys i finally broke one of the outdrive joints....what a pain in the rear to get to. anyway the new aluminum ones are on the way. im putting the new motor, and speed control in but before i do should i continue to use those hpi plugs or should i switch to deans or another kind?

[AE_racer38]

where did you find the cv drives in stock? i'm having a tough time finding them.

[Duster_360]

I'd switch to deans especially if you're changing to a more powerful motor. Those HPI mini conn can fuse together under load using better batts. I'd also solder ESC motor wires straight to the motor - way I'm doing mine.

Welcome to the broken outdrive club!

[jottney]

got them from rcmart.com...like 20 bucks for two

[Maxx_A_Million]

i broke another 2 tonight haha...
once i get my CVDs in locking my rear and putting some thicker grease in the front. . .

till then im just kinda. . . sitting here and waiting. . .

becasue i already tried to lcok my diffs. . . with hot glue. . . the diff locked... but both rear outdrives broke haha

ive got 3 more spares... but its going to be a PITA geting the spider gears out to get to the bevel gears. . . ugh... CVDs get here soon!

[CooLJoE8]

If you primarily drive the truck on pavement or carpet, that hot glue trick was a bad idea. You don't lock the diffs when you run on those surfaces. Its best used when on dirt. And is mostly used in crawling.

Also, locking the diffs makes it more likely to destroy the outdrives. Might as well just have taken the outdrives out and broken them yourself.



BTW, you will probably need to buy new a new ring gear and diff cup. The hot glue is probably melted into the case and the gears, so undoing it would be impossible.

[CooLJoE8]

Well, I have had these items for awhile, but held off the review to get more testing done. The first time running with these items, I broke a knuckle and had to wait to get a new one. So I fixed it and got a bit more testing done. On to the reviews...


Duratrax Aluminum Heatsink
------------------------------------

The finish on the heatsink is nice, and the blue color matches up with all their other parts. Its also very light and covers the stock motor quite well. If you have other 380-size motors, the heatsink will fit perfectly (like the Feigao 380 BLs for example).

Top view (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-heatsink-top.jpg)
Bottom view (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-heatsink-bottom.jpg)
Installed (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-heatsink-installed.jpg)


Duratrax Split Block Tires
-------------------------------

These tires are definetly a must have for anyone racing their MiniQuake on a dirt track. They hook up on the track VERY well. The tire compound seems softer than the stockers, but that might be because of the stock tread having thick grooves. When I run at the track, I use these tires. I don't even bother bringing the stockers or the Trinitys anymore. Those ones I'll leave for bashing outside.

Installed - Front angle (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/myminis/dtxmq-frontangle.jpg)
Installed - Top angle (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/myminis/dtxmq-topangle.jpg)


Duratrax Carbon Fiber Battery Strap
---------------------------------------------

Not a whole lot to test with this one. However, it does look better than the stock setup and adds some bling-bling to your MiniQuake. The battery strap is nicely cut and looks good. The aluminum posts and antenna mount look good as well, and again, the blue color matches with the many other DTX blue hop-ups. All in all, it adds a nice touch to the MiniQuake.

Installed (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-cfbattstrap-installed.jpg)
Antenna mount (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-cfbattstrap-antennamount.jpg)


Duratrax 13T Pinion
-------------------------

I was amazed to find that it comes in the same blue color as the other hop-up parts. Very cool in my opinion. The pinion also comes with a set screw, which is good to have incase you get a hotter motor with a 2.3mm shaft (like the Stegga). The lower tooth count definetely gives more torque to the MiniQuake. If you want more torque for the stock or Stegga, its definetely a good choice.

13T Pinion (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-13tpinion.jpg)


Duratrax Aluminum Body Posts
---------------------------------------

The aluminum body posts are a nice addition to the MiniQuake. I have yet to break a stock body post, but if you have, you definetely want these. The finish and color is great. I was a little disappointed to see that they use a body clip to hold the body up, rather than a built-in ledge like the stocks have. But they still do the job. After installing the, I found the body was a bit harder to put on. It seems the stock body posts were slightly bent in. I don't know if it was just mine or all MiniQuakes, but its noticable once you switch to the aluminum ones. It doesn't really bother me, but I wanted to make sure that was noted.

Installed (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumbodyposts-installed.jpg)


Duratrax Aluminum Shocks
---------------------------------

These I spent some time on, since the Losi ones for the Mini-T seriously disappointed me (both at release and months later after bugs were supposedly fixed). First off, they look awesome. Full blue aluminum shocks give the MiniQuake a nice look (definite bling-bling for anyone that likes to hook up their R/Cs). And although the performance difference isn't very noticable compared to the stock shocks, the fact of being aluminum will be better in the long run. Being all aluminum, you are less likely to have the shock caps pop off during a hard landing or during heavy shock compression. Plus the aluminum body is stronger and will hold up to more abuse. I haven't heard of anyone popping the stock caps, but the aluminum shocks do lessen that chance.

The first run of aluminum shocks did include crappy directions. I spoke with Duratrax and it was already being fixed. They weren't hard to read, but didn't give much detail either. Here's a picture of the first run directions:

First Run Aluminum Shocks Directions (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-directions.jpg)

That aside, lets get to the pictures of the shocks, which also includes the assembly process:

All parts from the package (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-parts1.jpg)
Bladders and shock ends (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-parts2.jpg)
Assembly parts for the shock body (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-parts3.jpg)
Shock shaft, body, and cap (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-parts4.jpg)

Shock body assembly (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-shockassembly.jpg)
Shock shaft assembly (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-shaftassembly.jpg)
Shock body and shaft assembly pt1 (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-shockshaft.jpg)
Almost done (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-halfdone.jpg)
Grabbing shaft with pliers to screw on shock end (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-pliershaft.jpg) (Note I used a piece plastic between the pliers and the shaft. Do this to protect the shaft's finish from scratching. You can use other materials as well. Also, grab the shaft using the flat area on the pliers. Never use the grooved area)
Shock end installed (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-shockend.jpg)
Complete shocks (http://specialed.no-ip.com/minitrucks/dtxminiquake/reviews/dtxmq-alumshocks-complete.jpg)

For my shocks, I used 20 weight oil. They are pretty smooth with the 20 weight. If you need a stiffer compression, I would recommend something heavier, like 30 or 40 weight. Its all personal preference and based on the track conditions, but the 20 worked out quite well for me. I might try 30 or 35 later on. Overall, I like the shocks.




I know some of you are hoping for another CVD review. However, I still have to get my Trex motor installed. I would do it before the Trex is in, but I want to test them with a strong motor. We all know they will hold up to a stock motor. The question is whether they can hold up to a beast like the Trex. Hopefully I can get it done this weekend.

[Duster_360]

Excellent review, CooLJoE8. When can we expect all of this to be generally available?

Tower says late Jan on some and mid Feb for others in what appears to be a best guess. Any better idea of when?

[Duster_360]

raptorridr660r - I got the ESC installed and mine works fine. When I switched it on, it was running full blast which caused a prob initially, but that quit as soon as I hit the button to start programming it. The brakes are a disappointment - hope can figure a way to make more effective, when you hit the brakes, you can tell its slowing down, but I wouldn't call it brakes. Reverse is there, just have to dbl pump it to engage. ESC never even got warm.

Stegga is a horse - I've only run one batt outside on concrete driveway, but it has enough power to powerslide around as I turn and goose it. 4 wheels drifts galore. See a definite increase in acceleration and its prob faster top end as well. I'm still struggling with strg - its all over in spite of the 225mg servo and TI turnbuckles, there is just too much give in the strg - to me looks likes its give at the knuckles.

It'll track true for a while and when you turn, you have to constantly correct as it wanders on its own. We'll see what diff brgs make next. Other thing, Stegga gets hot - batt wasn't fully charged and it ran prob 15min, but motor was hot enough, I though I'd burned my finger. Going to need heat sink as it was only 65F here when I ran it. I don't hear any clicking out of my DT CVDs contrary to whats been reported. I put a sm amt of diff grease in them an worked it in using a toothpick. So far so good. More packs tomorrow!

[raptorridr660r]

Good to hear yours was ok, I am sure he will send me a new one. I ran mine outside today for the first time, couldn't tell much with the steering since I was on ice the whole time, but it was fun. Thing is quicker then you would think for being so small. One thing I noticed was I don't have a very far range at all, less then 50 feet and it starts to lose it. I am using my JR XR2i radio, but with the stock receiver, time to spend the 50 and get a good receiver I guess. The same radio on my buggy with the JR rx gets at least 3 times the distance if not more then the stock rx in the mq. I wish airtronics rxs were cheaper, I would rather run the truck from my MX-3 but they are like 60 or more.
CooLJoe, very nice reviews, and the pics are great too, thanks alot! Let us know how your CVDs hold up too...

[Maxx_A_Million]

joe, i was wuite surprised that the diff/ring gear werent melted. . . at all... either were any fo the gears. . . howver, i got nice gear impressions out of the glue ;) im still not done getting the damn spider gears out and i dread tot hink how bad tis gonna suck to get the bevel gear out w/o trashing it. . . but if i can get the spider gears out ill just poke the chunk of the outdrive through with some needlenose. . .

duster, glad youre liking the 330... yeah, it likes heating up the motors. . . i blame it on the pretty low-frequency operation... it's only like 1500hz

my brakes are pretty good... mine are kind of like an on-off switch, but theyre good brakes nonetheless...

i demolished my outdrives... it sucked... it's deffinitely "late jan" though so im hoping with all my might that my CVDs will be here in a week or so...

keep on quakin...

[CooLJoE8]

Duster - Couldn't really tell you any better dates than what Tower has listed. Sorry. I wish I knew more exact dates than those.

[Duster_360]

I appreciate that, I "visit" tower quite a bit, so I'll just keep a lookout for when the stock status changes.

Maxx_A_Million - did you do anything diff when you set the brake up - if we could figure how to get between what you have - on/off light switch and what I have - a gradual slowing, man that would be just about perfect!! I set'em by the instructions with the brake full on. Maybe I should try halfway and see if thats any better. Let you know. BTW, good luck digging all that stuff out.

raptorridr660r - I've never looked for a JR or AirT rx, but all my FM rxs haver come from ebay used, futaba R113ip. They are 90 new and I've gotten a few as low as $40. Have yet to have any probs with the 5 I'm running, although I may be having my 1st prob currently. Anyway, even with prob, send it to futaba an for $15, get checked and fixed regardless of what's wrong and back in 2 weeks. Things are so competitive, suspect JR has something similar. Look for both and see whats out there. My experience is there's only a few who know what they're looking at, there's been like only 3 bids.

[microrcdude]

when stuff on tower say they are out-of-stock, look by th e "Buy now" button. there should be a thing that says they will e-mail you when its in.

[raptorridr660r]

I did some testing today with all my radio gear and it didn't turn out like I thought it would. I took the JR receiver from my buggy and ran the whole JR system on the mini quake, set the radio down and walked away with the truck and it only took like 40 feet to start going crazy. That is the same as the stock radio. In the JR manual it says for range testing I should be able to go 100 feet with the antenna down!!! I then took the Airtronics FM MX-3 system from my savage and tried that, I got about 40 feet with the antenna down and about 120 with it all the way extended. Better, but still not what I get with either radio in the buggy and savage, they easily double these ranges I get when using the mini quake. So I ended up getting a new airtronics receiver on ebay for 45 so it will be better, but why is there so much interference with the mini quake? Could it have something to do with the stock ESC? I will try the testing again when I get my MC330CR back and I hope to see some improvments... The ranges I am getting now won't be enough once summer hits and I can take this thing to the track... Anyone else having the same issues??

[Maxx_A_Million]

try a longer antenna tube. . . that helped me ALOT

duster: there's something weird with my mc330... the reason the brakes are like an on-off switch is becasue they dont kick in until about 1/2 reverse throttle. . . so i get 50-75* brake on startup... nothing proportional before that... (?) same thing with reverse. . . im worried im gonna break my front outdrives w/ the reverse because it jerks the hell out of my drivetrain becasue it kicks in at such a high point. . . i dunno *** is up with it... it's easy to get over though, as fwd ive got perfect everything. . . it would be nice to have better proportion as far as reverse goes though...

[Duster_360]

Here is a much longer than stock antenna tube that I doubt you'll ever manage to cut or damage - they're nylon, not silicone.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLB00&P=

I using one on mine, but haven't really tried to push the range - yet.

Maxx - have you tried killing reverse altogether to see what that would leave you with - while holding the ESC set button down, turn the power on - its supposed to defeat the reverse so you can be legal for racing where they insist on no reverse. The instructions you gave teh other day on setup were diff than mine. Wonder if thats part of it. My brakes are progressive, just too weak, takes way too long to stop.

raptorridr660r - remember the MQ is a lot closer to the ground than your Savage- thats got to have something to do with it.

[holeshotkid]

Horray!!! i just ordered plenty of goodies for my MQ. i ordered a Beast Stegga motor, novak xrs esc, topcad CVDs, aluminum motor heatsink, and a CBP1150 batt pack. ill fill you all in on how it works when i get it. :D

[guver]

Haha I just tried my 3rd battery and it charged to 700 instead of the other two at less than 500, felt alot stronger too and 8 minutes of runtime.

[Duster_360]

holeshotkid - heat sink from rcmart? Or have you found DT one somewhere?

[CooLJoE8]

Cooljoe8 - do you have the ~1/8" outward wheel movement with your DT CVDs? There's nothing at the knuckle that appears to hold the CVD end. I though that c clip snapped into the knuckle, but mine seems to bottom on inner wheel brg before it gets there. Just checking to see if yours went together the same way.

I know, its an old post, but I finally got to installing my CVDs into the MQ.

I do get the 1/8" play with mine installed as well. I'm not sure exactly why it does this, but it mostly seems that CVDs had too much grinded off the end near the clip, so it is allowed to slide further into the knuckle than it should.

I also find that mine bind up when I fully tighten the screw down. I guess I'll have to cut down the screws or find shorter ones.

The C-clip is just to hold the pin for the CV joint.

[Duster_360]

My prob was when I was trying to run with the DT wheel adapters and mini-t wheels/tires. When I went back to the stockers, that play is about gone or at least much less noticeable. Thanks for letting me know yours were about the same. Mine also bind when tight - haven't tried shorten, others have said to run loose and use loctitie.

I haven't given up on running mini-t wheels, like that stadium look on my MQ, just don't like the wheels. I've stripped the chrome and with a little creative xacto knife work, made a set of decent looking 5 spoke wheels out of them. Waiting on warmer weather to paint and they'll be finished.

My strg is still way too unpredictable and I think its flex/give at strg knuckles where TBs attach - I can move the wheels a good deal without the strg linkage moving. I noticed tower has graphite knuckles listed (not in stock) - I hope these are better than the plastic. I don't think alum bellcranks and or brgs will solve it all either.

[CooLJoE8]

I just tried using the stockers again (well...stock wheels....split block tires) and came out with the same result that you got. Stocks have very little play when fully screwed on. Although I used a small washer (really small) to pull the screws out a bit so they don't bind on the CVD when fully screwed in.

As for loctite, I've heard the same thing over on one18th. Haven't done it yet though.

[Duster_360]

I think the stock tires and wheels (chevron and split block, white and chrome ones) will prove to be the best until/unless some one makes some purpose built ones that will fit the same way stockers do - at last with the DT CVDs.

I'll try with a washer on the stock tires/wheels and see how that works. I'd like to be able to tighten the wheels and not have to depend on loctite. Thanks

[CooLJoE8]

Well, I didn't do any track runs (just some 10-20 second mid-air full speed runs) and mine stayed in. Hopefully the track won't pull them out. I don't care to use loctite either.

I cut down my screws (silver ones that came with CVDs and black ones that came with Mini-T adapters) about 2mm on each one. Both can now be fully screwed in without an issue (gotta use 5 washers on each screw for the Mini-T adapters...which is what comes with each adapter).


BTW, if all you ever run is the stock wheels, you could always try covering a correct-length piece of threaded rod with red loctite (the permanent stuff) and screwing it into the CVD axle (enough that its all the way in, but not poking out the back or it will bind). Then just get locknuts that will thread onto that rod and you can screw your wheels on like any other setup. Just make sure they are locknuts and not plain nuts or they will fall off while driving around.

I would do this myself, but I would need a spare set of CVDs to test it out on first. And I would need to find the correct locknuts to fit the stock wheels, and thread onto the threaded rod.

[Maxx_A_Million]

uhh. . . better idea for ya there joe. . .

instead of going all out and putting threaded rod in permanently, why not take out the CVD pin, and take off the CVD part so youve got just the axle/stub shaft, then put in a screw from the diff side w/ red locktite. . . itd ahve to be alot longer than the stock one... either way, you put that screw in w/ the locktite, then get a bolt for it. . . slip the wheel on over the bolt, slide down, rotate till it drops into the CVD part (after reassembling the CVD) then tighten your bolt against the wheels. . .

that could work, right? only problem would be holding the screw in place. . . but im sure ill come up wiht a solution for tat sometime tonight. . .

wacha think? if anybody needs to see ti drawn aim me rc10terror or MSN me MQ4L_Deuce@hotmail.com

or email me. . . or PM me... or something like that.. hehe

[jottney]

i just installed new cvd's and they have so much play the end that goes into the gearbox comes out and i get no rotation at all!! what do i do?

[Duster_360]

jottney - Which brand CVDs did you get - the atomic ones? They need a 3/16" pc of fuel tubing (or a small pc of cut spring) at the dog bone end to keep pressure on the assembly to keep it from coming out of diff. I think the CVDs with the CV joint at the diff are all like this.

The DT ones have a mild recessed area on the outdrive shaft that engages the outdrive gear inside the diff to keep it from coming out and don't need anything to hold them in. If you have DT CVDs, you're doing something wrong.

CooLJoE8 - the 2mm cut takes about 10sec at a grinding wheel and is too easy not to do it that way. I'm not fooling with wheel nuts this small.

[jottney]

duster - it worked....i have the atomic cvds, earlier i tried putting a shim but i put it between the rim and the end. the fuel tube worked great. thanks for the advise!

also...i just got to run it for the first time with the new cvd's (4), a beast stegga, aluminum turnbuckles, aluminum center steering arms with bearings, and new battery pack (also new battery plate, and blue body posts)...wow thats all i have to say. im going to take it outside this weekend and give it a whirl, but its running awsome as far as i can see (in my living room). ill also leave some pics for you all to look at.

[Duster_360]

Thats great! Glad to hear that fixed the prob!

I've been running mine since the weather is better, but another prob has surfaced with my Stegga - man, it gets hot! I burned my finger picking it up when I touched one of the screws that hold the motor plat tp the chassis. I temped the motor using my temp gun 287*F!! I'll be interested to hear if yours gets hot when you take it outside to run. Some have said it the ESC I've installed (the ebay mc330cr), some have said its the Stegga - bot it sure files with it though!!

[guver]

could it be the high gearing of the mQ ?

[Maxx_A_Million]

could be... but i'd think the stegga is designed as a high output version of the stock motor... did you gear up at all duster? if so, youre getting the same result youd get with the stock motor. . . just, your getting only the heat part of i and not that "massive suckage due to inadequate torque" issue hehe...

GL. . . and in the meantime, get a little fan and a heatsink motor mount or something...

[CooLJoE8]

uhh. . . better idea for ya there joe. . .

instead of going all out and putting threaded rod in permanently, why not take out the CVD pin, and take off the CVD part so youve got just the axle/stub shaft, then put in a screw from the diff side w/ red locktite. . . itd ahve to be alot longer than the stock one... either way, you put that screw in w/ the locktite, then get a bolt for it. . . slip the wheel on over the bolt, slide down, rotate till it drops into the CVD part (after reassembling the CVD) then tighten your bolt against the wheels. . .

that could work, right? only problem would be holding the screw in place. . . but im sure ill come up wiht a solution for tat sometime tonight. . .

wacha think? if anybody needs to see ti drawn aim me rc10terror or MSN me MQ4L_Deuce@hotmail.com

or email me. . . or PM me... or something like that.. hehe

We went over this on AIM. You can't fit a screw inside the CVD joint. Not enough room.

[CooLJoE8]

CooLJoE8 - the 2mm cut takes about 10sec at a grinding wheel and is too easy not to do it that way. I'm not fooling with wheel nuts this small.

Yeah, I agree. I was just tossing out the idea incase anyone else wanted to try.

[Duster_360]

Nope, I'm still running stock gearing. What I was trying to find out is does everyone else see temps like this with a Stegga - is this typical or not? If not, then I know I've got a prob for some unknown reason.

[guver]

That was kinda my point, in that the truck is geared quite high from the factory and if you went to a lower turn motr then it made it even worse for temps.?

I'm thinking of twin motors and twin packs. what you think?

[raptorridr660r]

Update on my OEM MC330CR ebay esc that I had to send back due to it not working.... Well I shipped it last week and it was suppost to be there monday, it is now saturday and he says it never showed up... So no I am out the money and the ESC, I can't see it being lost in the mail, but I can't rule that out, but it seems weird! Now I need to figure out what real ESC I should buy?? What are the best options other then the 330?? I'll let you guys know if this guy comes through on it, but I think I am done trying with that one....

[guver]

You want a stock one for $39 it is brand new.

[guver]

I'm starting to compile a list of mini esc's. Does anyone know the peak amp draw and then the average of the stock motor?

the rc18 looks ok

[raptorridr660r]

I have the stock one, I am trying to upgrade..................

[raptorridr660r]

If you guys have not seen them, there are now Aluminum Front and rear bumpers for the mini quake, rcmarts has them........

[Duster_360]

raptorridr660r - man, that really sux that he's pulling that "never received it, lost in the mail" crap on you. I don't insure everything I ship either (unless its for an ebay sales) and have lost only one item in my life. Wait a few days and email him again to see if he's "managed" to locate it. I won't be buying from him again nor will I recommend anyone else for that matter unless he comes through.

I realize from reading my temp probs may be due to the tall stock gearing, but that's what I want is the speed. Besides, where can I buy a 13t 48pitch 2.3mm shaft dia pinion? Besides rcmart - I haven't ordered from them so far cause I had a bad a experience with RCXShop, also in Hong Kong. Then I've got to go thru all that again about getting my pressed pinion off - this time somehow without trashing this motor, a Stegga?? Don't want to go back there. Guess I'm going to wait for TH to get their heat sink and optional pinions in. No more high speed runs in the mean time.

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, my truck is running fine for now, got another one so i sold the one i had. this one has lrp quantum pro esc. also got a 1100mah GP like you said duster, man the thing flies, its like upgrading the motor but better! my runtimes are much better, and theres so much punch and speed now, did wheelies a couple of times, though it fell on its lid. i didnt know a battery could make so much difference, usually the first thing i'd upgrade is the motor, but i think it'll be batteries from now!

as for the pinions, the ones forthe hor, the hardnend ones wont fit on the spur, must be different sized teeth or something.

as for that esc guy, i also bought one last week and paid by sunday, it still hasnt arrived by today, i sent him an email but no reply yet. we'll see what excuse he has...

[CooLJoE8]

I hope he isn't ripping us off on ESCs. I ordered one Monday night and he sent a tracking number (well...paypal sent an automated email saying he paid for shipping). USPS tracking number just shows that they are expecting to receive it for shipping. Hasn't updated to anything else all week. I'll be royally upset if he doesnt send it. I need an ESC quick. I blew the stock one today running the Trex motor. Well, it might be ok, but I couldn't get it to work at the track. Tried disconnecting and letting sit for a minute or two and still nothing.

[kurrz]

did you guys buy yours from a guy in new york i just bought one recently and sent a m.o. and havent heard back yet this makes me nervous :eek:

[Maxx_A_Million]

to those who bought an oem 330 off ebay...

he took about 4 days to get around to shipping mine, then shipping only took about 4 days. . . just send him an email that youre concerned and ahve heard bad reports... i'd only start worrying if he deosnt get back to you in a day or two...

[kurrz]

thanks for the post hows yours working

[guver]

How is everyone burning up the stock esc? they are rated for 50 amps.

or is it just to get the brakes?

[jottney]

kurrz....i got one from a guy in new york and i recieved it in a matter of days. its the oem 330 which there have been mixed reviews on so i figured i try it (whats another $35) and i dont like it. as cooljoe said you do have to go to a complete stop before going in the opposite direction. i havent tried it without reverse yet though.

duster...mine is getting extremely hot, as you said about the motor mount screws on the bottom, i burned myself on those! i may look into getting that fan that mounts right on the motor mount. but it hauls butt so hopefully i wont burn things up right away!

[Duster_360]

I never had probs with stock esc, but face facts, its a cheap esc. If your stock esc got hot, you were likely to blow it - read about many that went this way. They must've had some internal flaw or slight defect. Blowing it when you're running a diff motor (pulling more amps) is another deal. I also think the stock rating of 50amp is very generous. Mine never showed more than getting warm and this was with 20min+ runtime gp batts and it was fine when I pulled it out to swap.

I had about same experience Maxx_A_Million had - USPS tracking was only updated the morning that it was actually delivered. My ebay 330 took either 6 or 7 dyas from the time I "won" it to actually get it.

USPS tracking isn't real great - I 've had them deliver my pkg, still showing the tracking as saying they had been notified by the shipper that it was coming - don't let lack of tracking data for USPS get you down.

[Duster_360]

Should have read everybodys comments -

littlebuddha - glad you like the batts, figured you would see a diff. Mine seem to get better the more I use them, mine are charging to close to 1200 now and have a lot of punch and runtime.

jottney - at least then, its not just mine getting hot! Thanks for the feedback. I am going to hold on for now and wait to see if tower gets the heatsink (its early Feb Tower!) and other option parts and hope that plus cutting a hole in windshield will cut temp to acceptable level. If not, then prob go with the atomic mount and fan. I don't want to give up the speed!!

[kurrz]

yeah i have had my esc go out on thermal and my stock motor runs pretty hot on the 1150 cells but they give it alot of punch and long run times i ordered a new esc because i want brakes and full power in rev my quake is only 2wd right now until my other pair of cvds show tower now saying late feb with 2wd i can barely run it it constantly spins out its cool for about a minute then i want to drive it

[guver]

I think my first 2 batts were kinda bad or low, this batt gives me 10 minutes of good runtime and then 2 minutes of slow running. Here's temps all is stock.

motor 120
battery 130
esc 80

[CooLJoE8]

I had my stock ESC go out on me this past weekend, and it wasn't even hot when it happened. I guess the Trex was just too much and it shut itself down ahead of time. I even unplugged my batteries for a minute or two and it still didn't work. Oh well, I don't need to run it until Thursday after work.

BTW, the Trex didn't even get warm. It stayed the same temp as when I started running it. Nice motor.

[littlebuddha]

got my esc guys, like it was said the guy shipped it out like 4 days afterwards. still have to test it though. i used a quantum reverse pro on the quake for a while, its simply amazing, and small!

[raptorridr660r]

Why are you going to the 330 if the quantum was working well? Still no word from the ebay guy on mine....

[Maxx_A_Million]

... it hink the reason the rex is staying cool while the stegga is burning up is because ithe stegga is a 380 adn the rex is a 480. . .

the stegga is like a 10 turn mod 540 compared to a silver can stocker where the rex is like dual 14 turns... hows that for a comparison?

kinda like stock = trx pro .15, stegga = 2.5 and rex = RB ws7-2 (or other comparable MASSIVE output buggy engine)

[Duster_360]

Just a heads up folks, somebody's starting to part out MQs on Ebay - cheap source of stock parts, and another sign this little dude is going to be a commercial success.

CooLJoE8 - what size pinion/spur you trying in your Trex?

[guver]

I have lots of stock parts if anyone interested. sell for maybe half price.

[CooLJoE8]

Got my ESC today. He emailed back yesterday and said it had shipped already. Funny enough, USPS STILL shows it waiting to be shipped. Stupid USPS. But all is good now that it is here. I'll be installing it tomorrow along with new thicker wire and connector for the motor.

Duster_360 - I'm running the stock spur (45t) and a 19t pinion made by Robinson Racing Products (RRP). I'm going to get an RRP 22t pinion in a week or two. Should be even faster and probably warm up a bit. As long as it does get too hot to touch, I'm ok.

[Duster_360]

Thats what I've found with USPS tracking - almost next to worthless. I've gotten stuff with tracking still showing that msg about them having been notified about the shippers intent to ship the pkg, lol. I guess it lets them say they have tracking, but nothing like UPS or Fed-X tracking!!

[RespirologyRC]

the people that released the k3 krystal 300 size motor is getting ready to release a dyno tuned 400 motor specifically designed for the Mini quake:)

[Duster_360]

Can you supply a link where we can find info on this motor? I didn't see much in the way of info on unitedrc's site? I didn't see anything specific to a MQ except batts. Thanks!

[guver]

Haha so much for twin motors.

I just broke a shock shaft and a-arm. front bumper too. Yes I will definetly be parting a new one out.

[kurrz]

hey guys hate to bother anyone but ive emailed the guy about the mc330r like three or four times with no replies was he this big a pain to anyone else? thanks

[Duster_360]

No, I got mine alright. I bought one some time ago and when I Paypal'ed the payment I received an automated reply that said it was being shipped. Had no further contact with him untril pkg arrived about 7 or maybe 8 days later. The tracking info was USPS and it never changed form initial msg they use about being notified by the shipper that he has something to ship until the day I got it.

[RespirologyRC]

As you go to Unitedrc.com it's on their main home page. About a quarter of the way down on the right hand side. They mention that the 400 is coming out but don't have a release date as of yet

[CooLJoE8]

I got my ESC from the guy on Monday. So it took about 7 days to get here. Works well aside from the instructions for setting up the ESC being crap. My reverse stutters and sometimes jumps into full speed (if I hold it at full reverse). I probably got the instructions wrong or something.


As for the Stegga being a 380, its suppose to be a 400. A dyno tuned 400 can motor. The Trex is a dyno tuned 480 with endbell and replaceable brushes (along with having bearings). And remember folks, the numbers you see on the label for the motor canister....those are based on a timing of 0 (zero). The motors are not timing-advanced at all. So you can get even more power out of them by advancing the timing if you need. To do it on the Stegga, you'll want a motor timing advance tool. Otherwise you have to pry back the tabs on the top and twist the end around, then bend the tabs back. Its not fun.


Can't wait to see the K3 one though. Although I'm sure my Trex will beat that one.

[CooLJoE8]

As you go to Unitedrc.com it's on their main home page. About a quarter of the way down on the right hand side. They mention that the 400 is coming out but don't have a release date as of yet

Or go here. The discription page for the motor. Which they now say is coming out February 10th 2005, which is tomorrow.

http://unitedrc.com/store/product.asp?BrandId=10&ID=196

A couple things I like about this motor over the Stegga. They cut the shaft so its a proper fit on the MQ, they grind a flat spot into the shaft so the set screw on the pinion grabs, and they tell you the Amp draw of the motor.

[raptorridr660r]

Ok, I have given up on the mc330cr guy, I sent him the bad esc I got from him almost 2 weeks ago and he says he never got it and quit responding to my emails so I need to find a good ESC for this thing, what are my other good options?? I was looking at the LRP super reverse AI, but I not sure what would be the best being this is 1/18 scale and not 1/10. What would you guys recomend?

[RespirologyRC]

I have a 370 fireball in my Mini-t {which side by side with my Trinity monster wild** is definetly bigger, but not by a whole lot. Is the 400 bigger in size than a 370?

I am going to order the 400 and test it!:)

[Duster_360]

RespirologyRC/CooLJoE8 - thanks for the link. I'm seriously considering getting the K3 mainly because it appears they have the pinion flexibility Stegga lacks. I'm afraid I'm going to smoke the Stegga in short order cause of teh temps I'm getting with the 16t pinion. I'm trying to find a gear puller, but that doesn't look promising so far.

UnitedRCs site never mentions anything about shaft diameter relative to the pinions they sell and whether they are the 48 pitch metric ones that will match the MQ spur. Guess I'll be calling them in the morning to find out.

I hate to assume anything about stuff fitting - I usually just wind up disappointed when it doen't fit if I don't ask first.

[CooLJoE8]

raptorridr660r - Best bet is to look at ESCs for 1/10th vehicles -or- designed to run 540 motors. Anything less and you may fry it or be stuck running the stock MQ motor. Just be sure to avoid the ESCs designed for micro vehicles.


RespirologyRC - 370 size motors are the same diameter as 300s, but a bit longer. 380 size motors (what the MQ has stock) are larger in diameter than 300/370 motors, but shorter than 370s (longer than 300s). 400s are a bit longer and bigger than 380s I believe (I could be wrong, but they are atleast the same size as 380s and longer).

Duster_360 - Just take in mind that the K4 (the name of the MQ motor. K3 is the Mini-T one) is the same size/type motor as the Stegga. If they use a better brand/quality motor, its possible you won't experience the same issues. My guess is that Grafix (One18th) found a 4.8v or 6.0v 400-size motor and tuned it. That would explain the limit of 6-cells and why its so powerful (its ratings are just under the Trex).

[Duster_360]

CooLJoE8 - are you saying I should expect less performance from the K4 (I did mean the K4, my dumb!!) - that was what was nice about one18th.com - we knew the specs on the motors before we bought them - Mike advertised them. That'll be another question I'll be asking UnitedRC tomorrow. I don't want to take step backward in power, torque or speed.

[RespirologyRC]

I highly doubt that you'll be taking a step backward! The K3 is light years ahead of the beast raptor that the people over at one/18th have.

I definetly would buy their extreme 42 pack!!!!!!! Super sweet

[Duster_360]

I'm sorry I have everybody confused - its the K4 that I'm interested in, not the K3! I have a beast Stegga not the Raptor - Stegga is much more powerful than the Raptor.

RespirologyRC - that pac wont fit in a MQ, I have a pr of the Xtreme23's and they are my best gp1100s by far. I'm impressed with their batts, no doubt there. I'll be talking with them this am and decide what I'm going to do. Thanks!

[kurrz]

well guys the mc330r guy struck again after not returning emails at least 5 went out and reporting to ebay i was a non payer a package showed up today from him mind you an ebay transaction is a binding contract he sent my payment back and said he was out of them so check back in four weeks so if i run out of money do you suppose i could have just paid him in 4 weeks what a bunch of crap i suggest to stay away from him sorry for the hostility but i want a esc and this guy wasted my time and was my first bad ebay experience rant off

[raptorridr660r]

Yep, I am also recomending staying away from this guy, if you get one and it works your lucky.. I am done with him and out 35 bucks, and I don't even have the bad part to show for it. This was also my first bad ebay experience and I have bought and sold over 200 items on there. I don't like giving out 35 bucks for nothing......
Anyways I am trying to get over the bad mc330 copy, I am scarred to do it, but I am thinking about just getting the real Futaba made version, is it worth paying the extra to get the real one? I would hate to buy it and it be bad as well. I was also thinking about just getting the MC230, but not positive it will handle all the possible motors out there for the mini quake. I am guessing it would, anyone know?

[Duster_360]

There are real futaba mc330cr's on ebay for cheaper than tower - saw one for $46.50and another for $52.00. Places I read forums say the Novak XRS, the LRP Quantum Reverse are also good esc for 1/18ths. Another one I've read good comments about is the GM Racing V3R esc - it's also sold on ebay.

One of the review contest reviews going on at one18th was on the MC230CR; it was weak on tech details, but it appears to be a good choice too.

[RespirologyRC]

I too am looking for a good speed controler. So when you guys figure out what works well for 1/18th scale vehicle let me know!!! I am desperate!

[CooLJoE8]

Duster_360 - The performance difference would depend on what motor the Stegga is based on and what motor the K4 is based on. If One18th really did use a 4.8v 400-size motor, and the K4 was based on a 6v or 7.2v 400-size motor, then yes it would be a drop in performance to go from Stegga to K4. The bonus would be that the K4 wouldn't get hot on 6-cells and could ramp up to 7 or 8-cells.

As for the K3 being light years ahead of the Beast.....I doubt it. All the reports I saw put them in the same light. Sometimes one was slightly better than the other, and vice versa. Its the same basic motor used for each one; 300-size closed-endbell can motor. Both were probably based on the 4.8-6v graupner 300s, which is what everyone was self-tuning early on (its what I used for my self-tuned 300). Powerful little motors on 6-cells.



BTW, I'm going to bug Duratrax about getting strong upper-arms into the market. If I knew the Topcad/Atomic guys I'd bug them too, but I don't. Today I ran the MQ with the Trex (19t pinion), MC330CR clone, and finally track-tested the Duratrax CVDs. I ended up breaking TWO knuckles and TWO upper-arms. SAME EXACT knuckle and upper-arm each time....and in the same spot on said parts (lower ball on knuckle and in towards the bulkhead on the upper-arm). I ran it, bashed hard, hit the inner track tubing....*snap*....knuckle and upper-arm (still attached to knuckle) sits hanging by the turnbuckle (funny, didn't people complain about the turnbuckle & brass ball-studs being junk?). Fixed it with some spares, bashed hard, hit a wall in mid-air...*snap*...same exact things broke in the same exact way.

So yeah, those upper-arms need a serious upgrade in materials. I want aluminum, but there is still the issue of how to make it in aluminum since it has the captured ball-socket to deal with. I'm sure graphite will make it a bit stronger, but I bet I can still break those if they came out. We really need aluminum for this.....or a strong turnbuckle style upper-arm.

As for the CVDs, they held up both times. Its not bent, broken, or anything. If you want some CVDs I highly recommend the Duratrax ones. Only issue is that you have to cut about 2mm from the threads on the screws they give (or the ones that you have with the MQ, or the ones that come with the Mini-T adapters). They are slightly too long to fully thread in, cuz they end up hitting the CVD and binding. No biggy though, and definetely worth dealing with to get a outdrive-cup that snaps into the diff and CVDs that mount at the wheels like normal ones. If I had been running the Topcad/Atomic ones, I'd have probably lost the CVD somewhere (and the spring/fuel tube used to hold them in) since they don't lock in at all.

[Duster_360]

Afraid the high temps have claimed my Stegga. Ran a pac after work today and performance was noticeably down, punch was gone, speed way off and it was just flat. I'm going to take it out and look into cleaning it up (this was my 4th run after installing - motor spray and relube bushings. Maybe I'll get back some of what I lost, hope so anyway.

Have not had return call from the guys at UnitedRC. Will send email later this pm with same info request on their K4 motor (specs).

The strg on mine has always been poor - just too much give and its mainly at the knuckles - the link attached to the strg. The left side knuckle is more wimpy than the RHS. There is no way to drive it with any degree of precision - it goes where it wants and you have to struggle with numerous corrections all the time after turning it making driving a chore. I was hoping graphite knuckles would be better, but maybe not "better" enough.

[CooLJoE8]

I'll let you know how the graphite knuckles handle when I get a chance to really run them.

[holeshotkid]

i just installed my new stegga and novak xrs esc and my stegga also gets really hot.the truck accelerates very fast in reverse but not in forward and the brakes are really weak. the truck must be faster than stock because i broke 2 outdrives at one time :p . once i get it all set up properly it should work good. im just waiting for my cvds and motor heatsink to come in from hong kong :(

[Duster_360]

Watch the heat - I think I nearly fried my Stegga - I ran a fresh peaked gp1100 pac thru it the other day when it was like 64 outside and my raytech said the motor was 287F! I ran it Friday and the power was way down and the punch was pretty much gone. Haven't done anything since, but going to try some motor spray, re-lube bushing and maybe polish the comm and hope I get some of it back.

[Maxx_A_Million]

joe. . . very nice. . .

soon youll give up and understand the value of my ultimate ghetto setup... hehe...

i swear. . . te an arm, add a break, two holes, and a zip-tie and youve got a STRONGER ARM... and as far as the knuckles go. . . well. . . it's a little more complicated. . . gotta throw in a few nuts and bolts (and a bend grinder) but you end up wiht the same bullet-proof-itude hehe...

i meant to get pics this weekend. . . ill see if my buddy tim will lend me his digi cam...

[RespirologyRC]

what's a mc330cr? I've never heard of it or seen one?

[RespirologyRC]

If you guys are sick of using that crappy shell that comes with the MQ check out my last thread I started titled GMC MINI-T. Basically I airbrushed a GMC rs4 micro body and put it on my mini-t. It looks rad and fits perfectly. Might I mention that I also put this on my MQ and it also looks and fits killer!! I highly recommend these bodies. Cheap too, 10.00 for proline GMC bodies:)

[guver]

http://www.futaba-rc.com/radioaccys/futm0922.html

they are good.

[raptorridr660r]

After many many emails, the mc330 oem guy finally got back to me and said they got my return and are shipping me a new one today. Only 3 weeks late.... but if it shows up I will be happy since I had given up on this guy. I just hope he comes through...

[holeshotkid]

what should i do to keep my stegga cool? i cant drive my truck for another couple of weeks because my cvds and heat sink are still in hong kong( i ordered them from rcmart).

[tecman_pants]

can a brushless motor fit in the Mini Quake? If it can what brand and what size of motor is it.

[Maxx_A_Million]

the brushless topic is WAY too big to fit in a single thread. . . just head over to one18th.com and check out the mini quake forums. . . TONS of information...

when are we gonna start a new, more specific MQ thread over there? we need a MQ motor thread... this ones getting HUGE

[RespirologyRC]

I'm having a problem. I just dropped down a couple of teeth in my MQ and now I notice a significant decrease in speed, which I expected, but I also expected to pop wheelies on demand. Weirdly enough it pulls to the right really hard now and doesn't pull wheelies. I think all the power is going to the rear left (drivers side) wheel.

How do I fix this, or is their something else that may be causing me not to pull wheelies. The CVD's are fine and working properly.

[raptorridr660r]

locking the rear diff should fix that, being all plastic in there, I am not sure what the best way to lock it would be...

[Duster_360]

raptorridr660r - hey, good news, bet he was making you wait while he got your bad one replaced by whoever he get these oems from. Mine was acting weird the other day after running the Stegga so hot. The esc never got anything more than warm though. Hope I didn't hurt it too.

holeshotkid - cut a hole in the windshield to let some air flow thru. The only other thing is to get a small fan or the atomic motor mount that has a fan built in and see what temps you get with that. If you're running stock gearing, might try to gear down, thats supposed to make it run faster anyway and let engine get to max rpm. Stock gearing is supposed to be too tall. I'm looking for pinions, found a gear puller, just need a 13t pinion with a set screw.

[kurrz]

hey raptorridr congrats on the esc i never got a return email but after i left him negative feedback on ebay for selling me something he didnt have he left me negative feed back and said i didnt pay what a jerk oh well hope it works out for you theres another guy on ebay selling these i might give that a try

[littlebuddha]

hey guys, long time no see. anyways ya i had gotten the esc fromthe guy, took mim like 4 days to ship it, it seems to be working fine on my 1/10th cars, i'm sticking with the quantum for the mq, it has a smoother throttle response and higher frequency which is more suitable for the smaller truck.

[cr250]

Hey guys, SPC (http://www.specpointbatteries.com) now has 2/3A battery packs on their shopping cart. I bought one of their Sport packs for my RC18T. It cost me $14.50 plus shipping. The new pack runs awesome. I can't tell any difference between it and a GP1100 pack I own.

[Duster_360]

Tower is finally showing some of the DT hopups as in stock. Heat sink, chrome wheels, pin type tires an the optional pinions. Not all of them are avail, but these have just become avail. CVDs are shown as in stock too.

[buggyman17]

is the mini quake good quality? i was just looking at it in my RCCA and i dont know if it is good. RCCA says its a great little truck but i hav some doubts.

[TMaxxBenny25]

I havent heard the greatest thing about the durability. just my .02

[CooLJoE8]

joe. . . very nice. . .

soon youll give up and understand the value of my ultimate ghetto setup... hehe...

i swear. . . te an arm, add a break, two holes, and a zip-tie and youve got a STRONGER ARM... and as far as the knuckles go. . . well. . . it's a little more complicated. . . gotta throw in a few nuts and bolts (and a bend grinder) but you end up wiht the same bullet-proof-itude hehe...

i meant to get pics this weekend. . . ill see if my buddy tim will lend me his digi cam...

No thanks. I've talked to you before on AIM. You know I don't care for ghetto fixes.

I might try the age old idea of shoving a threaded rod between the two upper arm pieces, but thats the most I would try.

[TMaxxBenny25]

I like the Mini Inferno.

[Maxx_A_Million]

one day you will see young grasshopper. . .

zip ties are cheaper than new arms and bolts are cheaper than new knuckles...

that wich you resist serves others well, that wich you hold dearest may be your downfall...

a.k.a. dude... ghetto-fication WORKS! buying new parts over and over 1. gets old and 2. gets expensive... that, and its easy to go through 2 or 3 knuckles in a race day im sure. . . run out and yer screwed

[raptorridr660r]

Well I got a MC230CR futaba from ebay and installed that today along with going back to my JR radio and stock receiver. Works great, brakes could be better but all my range problems are fixed! I set the radio down at my from door and walked to the road with no glitching at all. I gave up because it was freezing out, but that is about 230 feet, with the old ESC I could get maybe 40-50 feet, so much improved. I am still waiting on my replacement oem 330 from the ebay guy, if it does show it will go in my second Mini Quake I started to build. Got a chassis and diffs and alot of other parts new on ebay for 30 bucks, already have a set of DTX cvds, atomic turnbuckles, topcad center steering kit split block tires and more on the way for that one. Gonna use my MX-3 with that one so I can run both and get my wife to learn to drive one finally, she would never touch the savage of buggy.....

[CooLJoE8]

one day you will see young grasshopper. . .

zip ties are cheaper than new arms and bolts are cheaper than new knuckles...

that wich you resist serves others well, that wich you hold dearest may be your downfall...

a.k.a. dude... ghetto-fication WORKS! buying new parts over and over 1. gets old and 2. gets expensive... that, and its easy to go through 2 or 3 knuckles in a race day im sure. . . run out and yer screwed

Whos this "young grasshopper" you speak of? I know its not me.

Ghetto-mods are for the desperate. I have no problem waiting for new arms. Especially when it saves me the time/hassle of having to ghetto fix the existing ones. Gives me more time for my other hobbies.

Besides, who needs ghetto knuckles when you have graphite ones on your MQ ;)

[RespirologyRC]

So the question remains who makes a really good CVD that doesn't require any modifications for it to work properly?

[raptorridr660r]

No problems with the newest DTX cvds, they made small changes in them and they are good to go!

[kurrz]

both of my dtx sets fit and work great no mods i wish i could say the same for my right knuckle it broke oh well cvds are top notch

[guver]

Here's the latest damage report on my MQ.

I did put in a 1100 battery and getting about 12-16 min. runtime now. I ruined the stock esc and put a boat esc in and it broke two output shafts in the diffs.

replaced all and good to go now.

[raptorridr660r]

Hey guys quick question, I got a new motor from DTX and they sent me a 19t pinion... Is that too much for the stock motor or will it run it ok? I have GP1100 batts and CVDs, Not sure if I should try and use it or find a 16t....

[guver]

It actually may be easier on the driveline, but the motor will be hotter. I think you can get away with it. Make for some high speed runs.

I have a question, does anyone know the specs on the motor like the turns? or how to get the specs on different motors in the 280 or 370 or 380 or 400 size?

[holeshotkid]

any one interested in buying a hopped up MQ?
-Beast Stegga motor
-CBP 1150 battery pack
-Topcad CVDs
-Topcad motor heatsink
$180 without radio and esc(i will include the stock esc but it has some wires cut off and it is not installed). has not been used very much. i will include all the stock and spare parts i have. i can e-mail pics.

[RespirologyRC]

i'll give you 200.00 but you can keepthe stegga.lol

[holeshotkid]

Sure, you can PM me about how you want to pay and all that stuff. :D

[NitroBoy24]

i'll give you 200.00 but you can keepthe stegga.lol

Weren't you the on that bought a MQ then immediately sold it because it was such a piece of crap :p

I killed a spur gear a couple weeks ago and haven't gotten a new one off tower yet. I need some aluminum/Ti turnbuckles but wont spend the money right now, too busy with track and work, not to mention I am going to sell my current quad and buy a Raptor. But that's another story..

[MaximumF350]

If you haven't seen the Anderson MRX4, here it is. It's exactly like the Duratrax MQ but in kit form for only $80. Came from Hong Kong in 5 days. Now you can add a good ESC and battery and not be stuck with poor quality stuff. I added the aluminum CVDs and heatsink during the build.

[kurrz]

Can anybody recommend a good pinion and spur combo for some more torque and also one for higher speed that wont burn up the motor thanks.

[guver]

f-350 can you post a link please? I can't find it. Thanks

[raptorridr660r]

There were being sold cheap on ebay, but shipping was high, you can also get them from RCMart.com

[guver]

That's where I loked, but couldn't find. I think they had some cheap power supplies on there once, but when I found the shipping from HK it was no longer "cheap"

[MaximumF350]

Yeah, the shipping was $20. I bought it because I wanted to add my own electronics.

[raptorridr660r]

I don't blame you for that.. I got my duratrax version for 135 shipped, thats the only reason I even bought it, but I am glad I did, and the first thing I did was put my good radio on it.

[MaximumF350]

I got my battery packs today. 1100s from cheapbatterypacks.com. They look good. Now I just need my servo saver to come in and she'll be ready to go.

[littlebuddha]

Hey guys, finally got my mini quake up and running again, i installed the associated xps esc, apparently it has the highest frequency out of any of the reversing micro escs, including quantum reverse pro and xrs. 2.8khz. i use the stock motor with GP 1100s and it flies. anways i ended up breaking the outdrive tip that joins to the inside of the diffs in the rear- withink 2 minutes of running. so i just promptly ordered a set of duratrax cvds from tower. i had heard that this fits right in without any modifications right?

i thought duratrax had fixed these problems by now, i had bought a second generation truck. i think cuase its so cold, the plastics may have become really stiff and eaily breakable, so maybe i wont have any more problems with the stock outdrives/ driveshafts (although i had noticed some of the grooves had bent a little) come summer. what do you guys think? i think below freezing tems are a factor in breakage.

Any other parts you guys think i should get? the only other part i was thinking of getting was the spur gear. but i'm a little worried about the drivetrain as a whole, anyone had any problems with the gears, diffs etc?

anyways thats my little update for now, its a great truck when its not broke...lol.

[kurrz]

The DTX cvds work and fit great on my truck i would pick up an extra spur my gear mesh loosened a bit and my pinion ate my spur but other than that with the cvds you'll be good to go. And yes the cold makes all plastics brittle especially DTX's.

[littlebuddha]

hey ya guys, i finally got my cvds, they look great. however it also came with blue gears for the diffs. do i need to install these? or can i just run em with the stock gear and save them for replacements? thanks.

[kurrz]

i just used stock ones and kept the blues for spares they work great

[littlebuddha]

hmmm, but stock ones dont fit cause the opening is too small for the drive shafts to slot in. i checked and the blue and stock gears defintely have smaller slots.

[kurrz]

Hmmmm it seems DTX parts vary a bit i know some guys said they had to modify the DTX cvds to work and mine worked great sorry if i mis informed you mine worked fine.
:confused:

[littlebuddha]

no prob. i was just checking my mini quake and the suspension seems to bind as the cvds dont seem to let the shocks fully compress. it seems they are too long or something. any of you guys had the same problem?

[MaximumF350]

This started life as a Anderson MRX4 kit. Here it has a Parma Titan body and DTX Pins. I also have the DTX CVDs and heatsink. Had slight diff problems, but shimmed them and now they are working great. Use some 1100s and a Futaba mc230cr. I'm digging this thing.

[guver]

Hi, Is anyone using the cheapo or the higher quality AA to power the MQ?

most are now above 2000 mah.

[MaximumF350]

Here it is with the stock body and chrome wheels

[MaximumF350]

Butt shot