HPI Micro RS-4 Forum v2.0

[Scomp87]

wheeee! i got my cmaera to work. Now i can post pics of my chassis.
It is:

Solid Woven Carbon Fiber
Used High quality boat resin, the stuff they use for real racing boats
It took a day to set
and 30 min to cut and drill

As soon as I get some electronics going for this baby, i'll make batt slots and more!

[Scomp87]

oh duh! pics!

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL22/549470/1401104/16352259.jpg

[Scomp87]

troubles posting pics....
does this work?

http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL22/549470/1401104/16352259.jpg

[Scomp87]

what is happening?
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL22/549470/1401104/16352259.jpg

[Scomp87]

great, i don't know how to post pics now....

http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&gid=1401104&uid=549470

[Crashmaxx]

Looks good, does this work?
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL22/549470/1401104/16352259.jpg
http://pic3.picturetrail.com/VOL22/549470/1401104/16352233.jpg

[Crashmaxx]

Hmm, I guess you account is wacked. Happened to me too, you should just use the browse button at the bottem and find the pic, just make sure it is small enough, or make a new picturetrail accont.

[Scarab RC]

We were slipping down the list a bit...

Scarab

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
first thing I'd get is a motor. Peak wind or HPI 45 turn, if you're just bashing.

Actually, the first I'd do is get a 7.2 volt battery pack. I say this because they are the same price as buying 4 double a's, plus that coupled with the stock motor gets you going way faster than one of those 45 turns, you gear up to an 11 tooth and you are flying, all with the stock motor too :)

[Scarab RC]

We're slipping down the page again...

Scarab

[enemy_spike]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Actually, the first I'd do is get a 7.2 volt battery pack. I say this because they are the same price as buying 4 double a's, plus that coupled with the stock motor gets you going way faster than one of those 45 turns, you gear up to an 11 tooth and you are flying, all with the stock motor too :)
actually 4 double A's is only 10 bucks for 1800 1.2v so your stupid

[enemy_spike]

i got a micro a while a go and i just finnally made a servo mount and got some AA's and da/\/\n this car is fun to drive on cement! :D with a modified motor i could have some real fun! any suggestions as to what i should get for tourque and speed?

[k_sw31]

OF course then again, your getting only 4, unmatched, low quality, target brand cells. On the other hand, you can buy matched, VIS processed, super high quality cells (6) for 23$$

For more speed get a promatch 6 cell pack, gear up to an 11 tooth, and then your really flying, either that or get one of the 45 turn motors. :D

[k_sw31]

HEy guys what compound tire should I get that would be more sticky than stock, yet last almost as long, I was thinkng medium compounds all the way around (runnning 2wd) sound good?

[enemy_spike]

yes but if your just bashing it doesn't matter

[k_sw31]

I need new tires anyways, I want better traction.

[enemy_spike]

that was random:p

[k_sw31]

WHat were you talking about then??:confused:

[enemy_spike]

Originally posted by k_sw31
OF course then again, your getting only 4, unmatched, low quality, target brand cells. On the other hand, you can buy matched, VIS processed, super high quality cells (6) for 23$$

i was replying to this

[k_sw31]

Well, even if you are bashing they're a good choice. Why? Well, first, they last close to full capicity for up to 3 years, where those target batteries will start to deteriorate after a year or so. I'm just saying that you can get longer lasting cells that will give you almost 10 mph more speed, I mean, I'd much rather pay 10 bux more for those.

[Scarab RC]

I just bought a killer battery setup. It's actually for airplanes. It's a flat pack of seven 300 mah NiMH batteries. I'm going to break it down and rebuild it for the Micro. I have to "lose" a battery as the track I race at has a 6 cell limit. These batteries are TINY and extremely light! I can lay them down or stand them up under the upper deck. I will have perfect balance and less weight! Sweet!

Scarab

[Heavy Throttle]

I was looking at one yesterday before I made my purchase. It almost looked like you could possibly fit a regulasr 4 cell pack. I'd image that would be some weight but the run time would last forever at least if you bash, I know weight for racing is a no-no.

Do you think you could fit a 4 cell pack "sub-c: in one of these things?

[Scarab RC]

If you get a mini or micro servo and run the 150mm wheelbase you can easily fit a 6.0 volt 5 cell flat pack right down the middle of your lower chassis. Unfortunately, I need to run 7.2 volts to be competitive and that won't fit, even with these new tiny batteries I found.

Scarab

[Heavy Throttle]

Do you know what the distance is between the lower and upper deck is?

Wonder aht the runtime would be and could you burn up the motor using this size of a cell....

[k_sw31]

Running sub c cells doesn't work very well because they are too heavy. I tried running regualr 6 cell packs and I burnt out my motor, it may work with 4, possibly 5, but why would you need tha tmuch runtime???

[the turd]

oh yeah, im getting a micro rs4 for xmas and i bought the 7.2volt Team orion battery for it, and the HPI mod motor. do you have an estimate as to how fast it will go (mph)? also, does the HPI mod motor provide a lot of acceleration? Thanks

[Scarab RC]

You'll burn up your motor with too much voltage which is equal to the number of cells you're using. Keep in mind, the cells are 1.2 volts each. 5 cells x 1.2 = 6.0 volts / 6 cells x 1.2 = 7.2 volts and so on. Each cell has the same mAh rating, so it's not cumulative. The runtime (mAh) has nothing to do with burning up your motor unless you run it for 45 minutes straight without a break. The stock motor can easily handle 7.2 volts and so can all of the mod motors. You only have to worry about your ESC and the amount of cells it can handle. The HPI mod motor is pretty fast compared to the stock motor but it eats up the brushes sorta quick. You can replace them though.

PS - IS ANYONE ELSE RACING THERE MICRO RS4 AT A LOCAL CLUB LEVEL? I'm interested to trade ideas and knowledge with someone who knows more than me.

Scarab

[Scrad]

I'm racing my Micro at the LHS. We run an 8 week series. Which ends this coming Monday. I'm in second with only .1 point behind the leader. We also run special 30 minute races too. I got 1st last time we had the Le Mans race. So if you need some ideas I might know a few.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by the turd
oh yeah, im getting a micro rs4 for xmas and i bought the 7.2volt Team orion battery for it, and the HPI mod motor. do you have an estimate as to how fast it will go (mph)? also, does the HPI mod motor provide a lot of acceleration? Thanks

You'll be flying :D I'd estimate a good 25-30 mph :D

[the turd]

Scarab RC, i bought a RTR micro becuase i want to be able to play with it right away, do you know if the ESC that comes with the RTR will handle the 7.2volt 6 cell pack? Thanks in advance.

[jkerr0043]

Any one know of any web sites with some good pre drawn paint masks for a micro? I want to just print something out onto blank masking material and cut it out. Most of the ones I've found are all scaled to 1:10 cars and are just too big.

[Scarab RC]

I do not know for sure whether the RTR ESC is good for 6 cells but I would bet that it is OK. Have you checked out the HPI website? You may be able to find out some information there. If you want to be sure, give HPI a call. The 7.2 volt 1100 mah packs are good for about 30 or 45 minutes worth of runtime depending on the motor.

www.hpiracing.com

Scarab

[Scarab RC]

Scrad,

What type of track surface are you racing on? My track enforces a stock motor, 6 cell limit and check each car coming off the track for tampering or cheating. What batteries are you using? Chassis? Tires? Give me the scoop and I'll give you my setup. I'm in Maryland so we're not direct competitors. No worries about sharing "trade secrets" LOL!

Scarab

[the turd]

part of the instructions read, "Team Orions micro rs4 battery packs should be charged at no more than 1 amp....." Does anyone know what will happen if I charge it at, say, 2 amps instead of 1? I dont like the idea of waiting 2 hours for my pack to charge. Thanks in advance.:)

[k_sw31]

I charge my pack at 1.5 seems fine and charges in 45 minutes :)

[the turd]

cool, thanks:D

[k_sw31]

Ya, I tried charging AA's at 3 amps, but the seem to die quickly...

[Scarab RC]

If you charge batteries, especially NiMH batteries, too fast, at least two things may happen:

You will overheat the battery pack and potentially damage your expensive pack.

You will get a false peak, meaning that the charger thinks the pack is peaked and it's really not.

Charge at the amp rate closest to the mAh of your pack. A 1100 mAh pack should be charge at 1 amp. Just a rule of thumb...

Scarab

[speedydave]

Hey guys. Lately I haven't been running my Micro much, mainly because I have nowhere to really run it. I've been throwing around the idea of selling it, but I'd only sell it if it were worth my while. So, I ask you guys, how much do you think I can get for my setup? I've got:

two bodies, both not in the best shape...
the 140mm WB belt, AND the 150mm WB belt
LRP Quantum reverse
standard Traxxas steering servo(I'll include an Airtronics standard, also)
Futaba 2PC Magnum Sport AM transmitter with Novak XXL receiver
Orion Big Block motor
two HPI 600 mah 5 cell NiCD packs
GH first gen.(non-adjustable) front ball diff
Dynamite front Aluminum universals

If you guys need pics to get a better idea, let me know, I'll post some up. Thanks.

[Jason C]

I'd say you could get around $250 for all that. This is a high estimate as I don't know what condition the stuff is in. If you are looking to sell the Micro, then why not just sell only the Micro-specific stuff? The radio, Novak receiver, and Quantum Reverse can be installed on other cars.

[speedydave]

I've got a Futaba 3PDF I use for most of my stuff, and any electric car I'd buy would be a racer(probably a B4). If I bought a B4, I already have a Cyclone and Airtronics 94737 servo left from my T3 I'd use. The stuff isn't in the best condition, but it's not in crappy condition either. There are scratches on the bottom of the chassis from running the Micro in the street, but it's only cosmetic. I can get pictures if it'd be easier to judge how much I can get out of it. Thanks.

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Scarab RC

Charge at the amp rate closest to the mAh of your pack. A 1100 mAh pack should be charge at 1 amp. Just a rule of thumb...

Scarab


Actually... The amp rate you charge at depends on the size of the cell, like the sanyo 3300's, you want to charge around 5 amps, and sanyo 2400's should be charged at the same rate too.

[Aluma]

hey guys, i have a micro servo, penguin chassis, micropro esc, mini fm rx, 6cell micro with bigblock runnin 12T pinion. my buddy has a arms chassis, big servo, big am rx, micro pro esc, and bigblock runnin 13T pinion but on 5cells and he stays right with me in a drag race... whats up? shouldnt I be able to blow him away cuz of my lighter weight and more voltage?

[Scarab RC]

Are you referring to NiCD or NiMH?

Scarab

[k_sw31]

Scarab-WHo are you talking to??:confused:

[the turd]

how much runtime would you get out of the Team orion 7.2v pack?

[Heavy Throttle]

I've heard that no more than double the charge rate of the mah. So 2400 - 4.8 amps, and 3000's = 6 amps. If you buy good matched packs they come with a suggested charge rate such as my promatch packs for my 3000's, they specify to charge at 5-6 amps. At the track there are some with the same exact packs that charge them at 8 amps!! There is no real specific charge rate, but its best to question the manufacture on what they suggest.

Just my .02

[k_sw31]

I am almost 100% sure that you charge according to cell size, not capacity!!!!!

[Scarab RC]

I think what it boils down to is not to let your cells get too hot during recharging or they will be damaged. And setting the amp rate of recharge too high is what heats the cells up. Let's just leave it at that. The Team Orion 7.2v 1100 mAh battery pack will last anywhere from 30 to 45 minutes.

Scarab

[k_sw31]

OK :)


So with tires, would medium coumond tires be a good compromise between traction and wear?

[Got Speed]

How much of a difference will it make in my setup when adding a big block motor?

I charged my 1100 mah, 6 cell pack at 800mah. It took about 1 1/4 hour to charge. I was charging it at 9V. That is ok isn't it? It wouldn't charge the battery at 7.5V mark only 9. I know the batterys usually put out about 9V when fully charged.

[Scarab RC]

I've found that with a mod motor the medium rear tires are too loose. I would just do donuts. I recommend soft rear tires always and either standard or medium hard fronts. Again, it depends on what you're doing with your Micro.

Scarab

[k_sw31]

Well, keep in mind my micro is 2wd, but, I am considering getting a speed 300 setap and just running 4 cells. I just bash around, so I dont need perfect traction just to get up to speed with out spinning out, so would softs in the rear, meds in the front work?

Thanks ya'll :p

[the turd]

InspGadgt , it says you live in Hawaii. what island? I was wondering because m g-parents own a condo on Molokai. My fav. island ever because you get there and do nothing, no real tourists. I know how to dress local style on Molokai too:cool:

[Got Speed]

k_sw31- 4 Cell with a big block dosn't work well at all. I tried it and it was slower than the stock motor.

[k_sw31]

Whoa man you must have had a bum motor because i drove my brother's bb on 4 cells, It screamed! 2 or 3 times as fast as stock :) (you sure the gearing was right?)

[JR in NC]

Ok Micro Specialists.

I'm running a 500 lap road race this month. The rules are fairly simple stock motor 9t pinion and 4 aa cells. I have a set of 1700mah and a set of1800mah what kind of run time can I expect from each set. They are going to split the race into 2 250 lap segments, and there must be a pit stop under green flag conditions. Approximately how long will either set of batteries last before they go flat. This is an indoor race in a room about 20x44.I'm open to any suggestions, oh yea the cars must be stock. One other question on a road course 140mm or 150mm chassis?


JR in NC

[Scarab RC]

Wow, that's a hard question to answer. I would be buying the extra Parts Tree that has the 4 cell holder so that you can just pop the spent battery pack out and put in the new pack without having to take out the old batteries and putting in the new ones. They also have 2000 mAh AA type rechargable batteries available now. As far as run time I have no idea because I never ran those type of batteries.

Scarab

[Scarab RC]

K_sw31,

Softs in the rear are the norm. Medium HPI tires are the softest front tires they make. You could probably get away with standards (stock) or the Medium Hards.

Scarab

[tonylukes]

Has anyone tried to run 8.4volts through a TO Elite Mod motor? Im going to make a pack with 7 700mah AAAs this weekend and try it out, I want more speed and dont want to jump up and buy a speed 300 yet before I try more voltage. Besides I kinda like making packs for some strange reason. Any thoughts?

Also, how does a spy esc hold up to a speed 300?

tonylukes

[Aluma]

hey check this baby out!!

[ben7890]

-move th post-

[Aluma]

another view...

[ben7890]

does the micro RS4 make a good first RC car
i'mgoing to buy the kit version and include the following
electronics

-75MHz Futaba 2PHKA 2 Channel Am transmitter
-Team Orion Flash Reversible ESC
-Team Orion 7.2 Micro pack
-Tram Orion Elite Micro Stock Motor

Doyou think think this will make for a fast car and do you think it will be good for a beginner. i do not want the RTR and i want o know if the electonics i have choosen are good. please
help


-Ben7890

[the turd]

ben7890-have no idea. i havent opened mine yet, i have to wait till xmas.

Aluma-Where did you get that body?

to everyone else on this thread: Is there any news about maybe a Citroen body coming out for the micro? maybe a Xsara? I love Citroens:D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Scarab RC
K_sw31,

Softs in the rear are the norm. Medium HPI tires are the softest front tires they make. You could probably get away with standards (stock) or the Medium Hards.

Scarab

Ya, last night I picked up some softs for the rear and stocks for the front. :) I haven't ran them yet, but the soft's seem really sticky :)

JR- For your wheelbase, it depends on what kind of course it is. FOr example, If your on a tight twisty coarse, you'll want a 140 mm for better handleing, and 150 mm gives you more stability, but I dont think thats an issue because your running stock, so you'd be better off with 140 mm in my opinion. :)

[Scarab RC]

ben7890,

If you have the means, I would spend a little more money on your ESC and get the Novak Spy instead of the Flash.

Scarab

[MMTM]

I tend to agree about the ESC. I have a flash now and its getting better every run but it really lacks brakes. I have gotten used to it now and it reall y work well for me. The brakes get stronger each time I run but I don't know that they will ever give quite what I normally expect from an ESC. I also hear that the brakes are stronger when used w/ the Elite Mod motor (I'm just running the Elite stock). There are several options from LRP, GM, Futaba, Airtronics (not the es-01 thing), and of course the Spy. Shop around and get one that will meet your demands for today, but also what you might upgrade to in the future.

[k_sw31]

Or you can just use a super rooster like me! :p

I do agree with MMTM and scarab though, the spy looks a lot better. Novak makes really good esc's and their customer service is very good :)

[InspGadgt]

I just ordered some new stuff for my micro...can't wait till it arrives. Got the ARM Toyota GT1 body, the GH front and rear shocks, and the Speed 300 motor and motor mount.

I'm also going to try re-arranging my EXO chassis setup. With the stock tires I noticed a bit of tweak in the car but could easily compensate for it driving here's what i'm going to try: Move the front 2 cells to the center 2 holes then mount the reciever on the belt side of the servo and the ESC on the other side. I'll be running the XXL reciever and LRP Quantum ESC so the weight of them should be nearly the same.

For you EXO drivers...what methods are you using to assemble your packs? Especially the side where there's a gap for the belt. I'm planning on making extra battery strap braces then shoe goo'ing the cells to the strap. 1 for each pack. This should make for a very sturdy pack that's easy to change out.

[k_sw31]

Hey, will you be running 4 cells on that speed 300 at all? I would like to know how a speed 300 compares to a BB, though they look the same, just different stickers/price tags ;)

[ronbeck]

does anyone else use any of the ko propo esc's?
i'm using the ksc-1000fr.
will run any micro motor, has delay reverse, anti lock braking.
it's also about 1x1 inches.
runs about $110 @ my lhs.
love it:D

[k_sw31]

Heh, I had absolutly no clue Ko propo made esc's ;)

But, why would you pay 110$ when you could buy say, a quantam reverse for like 75$ or so?

[ronbeck]

bought it for my evedar when my sprint went.
love it becouse of it's throtle response and braking.
and easy to set up.

[jkerr0043]

I just got a 370 size motor from hobby people. I was told it's the same thing as a speed 300. The problem is my HPI pinions wont fit on the output shaft. Are there pinions out there that will fit? Is the shaft on a BB the same size? I tried drilling them out but I don't have a press and they're pretty hard metal.

[k_sw31]

WEll, the BB/speed 300's shafts are the same diameter as stock, so it must have a different diameter, get some calipers or try to measure the diameter, and find the right pinion for it (they sell all sorts of pinions, ya just gotta look around) either that or call or email hobby people. :)

[jkerr0043]

I checked them w/ a mic and they are both 2mm shafts, but the 370 is splined. I just hooked it up to a battery and held some sand paper up to it for a few seconds. Smoothed out the splines and it fits now. Thanks

[Crashmaxx]

Hey guys.

My LHS is opening up a micro rs4 track, it will be carpet. And I want to get a micro and race there. I only have $300 to spend and I had this as my setup:
Micro RS4 Kit ($99)
Big block motor ($40)
Novak Spy Speed Control ($55)
Trinity 6-cell NiMH Pack ($30)

And I was going to use a MX-3 later, but any old one I have around for now.

Then this guy says I need to get like $500 more stuff to get it to race good and if I have to get a lot of mods then I don't want to get one, I would rather get a hyper 7 then spend that much on a micro. He also said the spy is not good enough and that I need to get a quantium. So is the micro fine stock or do I really need all this other stuff(alum. parts, carbon fiber chassis, etc.)?

[SC-18_Racer]

Crashmaxx--buy a BRP SC-18 for $100 + radio and ESC, you will have a rece ready car that will beat any Micro!!! If you need more speed you can get the Big Block motor and Pod.....

[Scrad]

Don't get the BRP car, that thing doesn't handle for crap and is not worth it in my opinion...

CrashMaxx, the stuff on your list if fine to race with. The SPY is great, you don't need to spend the extra money on a quantum. The only upgrades you may need is a rear ball diff, but not really needed unless you have a problem with the stock. I used the stock rear diff till it locked up on me. You may want to look into some steel front universals, since you plan to run the BB. And maybe a pan chassis.

I ran an Peak Turbo, SPY, Orion pack, with the stock rear diff and a Penguin chassis and I always finished 1st or 2nd. I ended up 2nd for our 1st micro season. I also did very well with the stock chassis too. But the Penguin did make it easier to drive. I probably only have 250 maybe 300 into my micro at the most...

[Crashmaxx]

I decieded to use the stock motor for now, we should have a stock class, and I will upgrade later as needed. Thanks.

[SC-18_Racer]

Scrad---- A SC-18 will out run, out perform a top of the line Hop-up Micro ANYDAY of the week. At my LHS track no Micro has beat a SC-18, the Micro is 3-6 laps down....

[jkerr0043]

I've got a little tip for anyone running a GH rear ball diff. When I got mine, I could not get it tight enough to not slip without it locking up. I race with the guys from Team Epic and they showed me what they do. They take a Team Losi thrust assembly and install it on the rear diff. That tightens up the slip and you still get the super smooth diff action.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Crashmaxx
Hey guys.

My LHS is opening up a micro rs4 track, it will be carpet. And I want to get a micro and race there. I only have $300 to spend and I had this as my setup:
Micro RS4 Kit ($99)
Big block motor ($40)
Novak Spy Speed Control ($55)
Trinity 6-cell NiMH Pack ($30)

And I was going to use a MX-3 later, but any old one I have around for now.

Then this guy says I need to get like $500 more stuff to get it to race good and if I have to get a lot of mods then I don't want to get one, I would rather get a hyper 7 then spend that much on a micro. He also said the spy is not good enough and that I need to get a quantium. So is the micro fine stock or do I really need all this other stuff(alum. parts, carbon fiber chassis, etc.)?

I'm sorry but I don't think that guy has any idea what he is talking about. Here is what I would get:

Micro RS4 $80 I can give you a link to the people that sell them for $80 if you want.

Speed 300 Motor $20 or Elite Mod $40

Decent speed control aprox. $50 ( spy, quantum, ect)

6 cell pack $25 ( I make my own because you ahve to for my chassis and it is slightly cheaper most of the time) The trinity packs are too expensive for nothing more than what you can get for half the price IMO)

Pan chassis $13-40 Not a must but makes a big difference. You can get the ARM chassis, Ratzas, Epic, or Penguin. I have the Epic myself. I got it for $40 and it comes with a battery hold down strap, two rear plates to adjust susp. stiffness. (You don't need a micro servo like it says but they are helpful)

Rear ball diff $20-25 ( not a must but makes it handle better)

Front one-way or ball diff $20-25( same as above)

Alum pinion $3

Foam tires $15

That all totals up to about $300 and that is everything you could need for racing them. You could do it with $200 too. It's all on how serious you are about it and how much money you have.
Ask your track they may have a stock class too.

[Scrad]

SC-18, you must have some crappy Micro drivers if they can't beat the donut BRP machine. We had one person try his and it did donuts every where and then he got pissed off and threw it at the wall. Every person I know around here that had a BRP said it sucked and they like the Micro much better. Plus why are you coming into our thread anways? You have your own opinion and thats ok I respect that. I just wish I could show you my micro and put some money down on a race... :D

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by Crashmaxx


Then this guy says I need to get like $500 more stuff to get it to race good and if I have to get a lot of mods then I don't want to get one, I would rather get a hyper 7 then spend that much on a micro. He also said the spy is not good enough and that I need to get a quantium. So is the micro fine stock or do I really need all this other stuff(alum. parts, carbon fiber chassis, etc.)?

That guy has absolutley no clue what He is talking about, get 6 cells, ball diffs and your fine :)

[Crashmaxx]

I think I know what I am getting. Thanks.

[k_sw31]

No prob :D

[Got Speed]

Yea, he seriously dosn't have a clue. lol :p If your running the same cells, motor, and tires as the other guy you have the same chance.

[Got Speed]

SC-18 Racer- Seriously now, why are you posting here. You arn't adding to the discussion about micro RS4s. You have your opinion I have mine. I respect yours I ask you to respect mine.

[InspGadgt]

No...actually he does have a clue...it's like pan cars VS touring cars. On a well prepped high bite surface a pan car will eat up a touring car because they are so much lighter and have a lot less drag in the drive train. But on a less then perfect track the 4wd of touring cars gives it a decisive advantage. The BRP/HPI comparison is exactly the same. The BRP car is essentially a 1/18th scale pan car. So give it a track with very good traction and it's performance will be awesome. However very few tracks are in that kind of condition anymore so the Micro will be faster as it's 4wd makes it more adaptive to less then optimum track conditions.

[ugman]

Well, I'm getting a MicroRS4 for christmas and I was wondering what hop-ups, if any, I should get first. I'm getting the RTR version so that I have an extra radio just incase something breaks on my new one. Lookin forward to posting in here often...

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by InspGadgt
No...actually he does have a clue...it's like pan cars VS touring cars. On a well prepped high bite surface a pan car will eat up a touring car because they are so much lighter and have a lot less drag in the drive train. But on a less then perfect track the 4wd of touring cars gives it a decisive advantage. The BRP/HPI comparison is exactly the same. The BRP car is essentially a 1/18th scale pan car. So give it a track with very good traction and it's performance will be awesome. However very few tracks are in that kind of condition anymore so the Micro will be faster as it's 4wd makes it more adaptive to less then optimum track conditions.

No I was talking about the guy who said you needed to get $500 of upgrades to make a micro raceable.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by ugman
Well, I'm getting a MicroRS4 for christmas and I was wondering what hop-ups, if any, I should get first. I'm getting the RTR version so that I have an extra radio just incase something breaks on my new one. Lookin forward to posting in here often...

None are needed but the most popular and "best to buy first" upgrades are.

Elite Mod or Big Block(speed 300)

6 cell battery

Ball Diffs

Pan Chassis

[k_sw31]

Well, the most needed thing for a micro (stock) would be these:

Aluminum pinion (definatly)
Servo mount (if you really hate servo tape ;))
6 cell battery pack (for more speed, 4 cells is good for tooling around the house)
If you want extreme speed, get a speed 300 motor, but with this you need other hop ups to deal with the power (new tires more often, front and rear ball diffs, etc.)

Hope this helps :)

[InspGadgt]

oh my bad...I thought it was just another BRP vs HPI thing...this forum gets so many posts its hard to keep up with them all

[Crashmaxx]

I went to the track. It isn't real big and everyone was using a stock motor. You really need the softer tires to grip on the carpet. I got to drive a micro, but the AAs were almost dead, so it was boreing, but not to hard to drive. All I think I need is a good 6 cell pack and I should be having fun. Racing starts sometime next month, can't wait.:D

[k_sw31]

Crashmaxx- Instead of picking up the trinity pack for 30$, I suggest you pick up the pro-match 6 cell pack here (http://www.promatchracing.com/micro.htm), I have heard very good things about pro-match batteries, and plus it is cheaper than the trinity packs, I hear pro match cells can last up to 3 years in top condition :D

PS, If am correct, i think foams are really good for carpet.

[k_sw31]

Hey guys,

I was just browsing through ebay and i came up with some interesting micro rs4 chassis.

THey are the wide kind where you can mount lots of stuff down low :) PLus they have different colors :D

THe Item # is 1924212705

[jkerr0043]

I just bought an Epic chassis and rebuilt my micro for racing next season. New body too as well as a hobby people 370 motor and Pro-Match cells. This thing is a little rocket. I can't wait until race season starts again in January.

[jkerr0043]

Here's one w/o the body.

[k_sw31]

Hey that looks pretty neat ;)


I am thinking of purchasing one of those chassis on ebay (the blue one :D) and then eliminating the upped deck on it, so it will look cool, any suggestions?

[InspGadgt]

The Epic chassis is awesome. I see your running your electronics like I plan to run mine with the reciever and ESC on opposite sides. Initially I ran them both on the same side as shown in the instructions but the car felt like it had a little tweak in it so now i'm moving the reciever over to the other side. I also plan to remake the rear body/shock mount brace to one like on the RC12L3. That will eliminate the flex of the rear deck entirely. Just ordered the GH shocks and the Toyota GT1 body for it...can't wait to get it running again.

[ronbeck]

what wheels are those??
are they one peice??
dig the paint job.
have the same body but it didn't go well with the paint job.:D

[Skribble]

Bleh .. Been reading since page like 30. :o

I'm thinking of going Micro ('Cause I'm gonna sell my XXX Kinwald and use my Christmas money to buy a new computer.) and I have around $400-500 to spend. I'm basically going to be bashing on smooth concrete and asphalt. I have some questions ..

1. Since I'm bashing, is 4WD really necessary?
2. Why are Hitec servos crap? Lol. :)
3. What is the cell limit for the spy? I want to run like 8 cell on the Epic chassis. If the Spy can't take 8 cells I'm going with a Quantum Sport. No need for reverse.
4. What is exactly included in the Epic Chassis? Just the chassis alone?
5. I'm gonna get GP 2/3A NiMh 7.2v, 1000mah in 6 cells. How do you solder the batteries together? What does GP 2/3A mean? Also, are any of these type of batteries "Matched?" And would three 8 cell packs be good enough for bashing? I might make two 6 cell packs and one 8 cell pack.
6. Someone said the to use a BB motor in the EXO, you need to do some modifications. What are they?
7. I'm guessing the Micro doesn't come with a ball diff. Is it that much of an improvement over stock (What setup is it? Solid Axle? :confused: )
8. Anyone know any inexpensive chargers that can charge 8 cells?
9. Do tires wear down that fast on a Micro? How often will I need to buy tires if I drive out on the street?

Here's my list so far ..
1. HPI Micro RS4 Kit w/ Porsche Body. (Or Hachi Roku AE86)
2. HPI Ball Differential Set.
3. Team Epic EXO Chassis.
4. Team Epic EXO Servo Mount.
5. Team Orion Big Block Motor.
5. LRP Quantum Sport or Novak Spy.
6. Five 1 Cell Batts. (Same as below.)
7. Three 6 Cell NiMh 7.2v, 1000mah batts.
8. Airtronics MX-3 or Futaba FM Magnum.
9. Hitec HS-81MG Micro Servo.
10. Novak XXL FM.
11. Charger???

I'm guessing thats it, and it comes to about $480. Any other suggestions? I'm might enentually go with a BL motor.

[Skribble]

Originally posted by ronbeck
what wheels are those??
are they one peice??
dig the paint job.
have the same body but it didn't go well with the paint job.:D TRC Foams w/ Rims for the Micro, I think. :confused:

[ronbeck]

i use a front one way diff just becouse the gears in the stock kept stipping.
but have had no probs with the stock gear diff. i just try to keep it cleen.
the porsche body looks cooler then it runs. but has lots of room for electronic lay out.
have had my micro since 8-9-02 still have lots of life out of stock tires(have three diff tire combos-all stock, med frnt and softest rear, and then med front and med soft rear). had probs with soft tires picking up to much dirt(running hard wood).
you can run with out the belt for two wheel drive.
just my thoughts. hope it helps.
:)

[jkerr0043]

Originally posted by ronbeck
what wheels are those??
are they one peice??
dig the paint job.
have the same body but it didn't go well with the paint job.:D

Thanks. They're TRC foams. They come mounted on those wheels. They give good traction and you can adjust the amount of traction you get with paragon.


The Epic chassis is awesome. I see your running your electronics like I plan to run mine with the reciever and ESC on opposite sides. Initially I ran them both on the same side as shown in the instructions but the car felt like it had a little tweak in it so now i'm moving the reciever over to the other side. I also plan to remake the rear body/shock mount brace to one like on the RC12L3. That will eliminate the flex of the rear deck entirely. Just ordered the GH shocks and the Toyota GT1 body for it...can't wait to get it running again.


It does handle a little better than the Ratzas that I had before. I changed mostly because of the battery setup. It's so much easier to change packs. I'm still using the Ratzas rear deck. I had the receiver on the left side at first but I was getting serious glitching! You have elevate the receiver to make clearance for the belt. I just pield up about four layers of servo tape on either side of the belt to get clearance.

[Scarab RC]

Last night was the first race of the second points series at my LHS. They have an indoor asphalt track thats real nice. I was Top Qualifier and I placed first in the Main. Not a bad start. Hopefully, I'll get a nice trophy out of this series!

Scarab

[Tstalion79]

I just ordered my micro. It will be sweet! Here is what i got:

Corvette C5-R body
Epic EXO pan chassis
Ratzas Pro Upper Deck
GH Front Ball Diff II
GH Rear Ball Diff
Hot Bodies Aluminum Front Bulkhead
Hot Bodies Aluminum upper Arm Mount
Hot Bodies Aluminum Steering Knuckles
HPI Titanium Antenna Kit
Integy Alloy Rims (6 spoke dual)
Front and Rear Foam Tires
Integy Front Foam Bumper
Novak SPY ESC
1300 MAH 6 Cell NIMH pack
That hitec micro servo (.11 seconds)
Airtronics MX-3 Radio with Novak XXL Receiver

What motor should i get? Elite or big block? Thanks.

[tphss]

Very nice car you ordered there,
get this motor:
Team Orion Micro Elite Modified Motor:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LL7291&P=1

one of the best motors, i personaly use Team Orion Big Block...

[ugman]

jkerr0043 - Who makes the ferrari body that you have pictured in the post? I cant find one any where... Thanks

[Tstalion79]

So why shouldnt i get the big block then? Just wondering.

[jkerr0043]

It'a a proline body. By the way, where do you guys gear your BB/Speed 300's? I'm using an 11 tooth right now and the gear mesh is a little loose. I ground the motor plate back but the can is hitting the rear axel housing. I don't want to have to machine that down. I was going to go up to a 12 tooth. I'm not sure if this is over geared or not. It didn't seem to get warm at all with the 11 tooth so I don't think it'll be a big deal. Keep in mind, we race on tracks built for 1:10 scale electric stock and modified as well as nitro cars, So they've got long straights and, for the micros, big sweeping corners.

[jkerr0043]

Here's a link for the body.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCPH4&P=0

[ugman]

jkerr0043 - Thanks for the Link...

[jkerr0043]

no problem.

[k_sw31]

Hey guys, where can I get the elite modified at a cheaper price? Ya know, how you can get the speed 300's for only 20$, I want the elite because it wont have so much torque, but where can I get it for cheap?

[RS4rally1124]

hey my micro has a custom chassis. it is only fiberglass but soon it will be graphite or ti. my micro kills the brp and i was wondering if you could make a micro shaft


JT

[k_sw31]

I think your better off buying a CAD program and scaling a TC3 down :p ;) I dunno, I htink it would be really hard t oconverta micro...

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Skribble
Bleh .. Been reading since page like 30. :o

I'm thinking of going Micro ('Cause I'm gonna sell my XXX Kinwald and use my Christmas money to buy a new computer.) and I have around $400-500 to spend. I'm basically going to be bashing on smooth concrete and asphalt. I have some questions ..

1. Since I'm bashing, is 4WD really necessary?
2. Why are Hitec servos crap? Lol. :)
3. What is the cell limit for the spy? I want to run like 8 cell on the Epic chassis. If the Spy can't take 8 cells I'm going with a Quantum Sport. No need for reverse.
4. What is exactly included in the Epic Chassis? Just the chassis alone?
5. I'm gonna get GP 2/3A NiMh 7.2v, 1000mah in 6 cells. How do you solder the batteries together? What does GP 2/3A mean? Also, are any of these type of batteries "Matched?" And would three 8 cell packs be good enough for bashing? I might make two 6 cell packs and one 8 cell pack.
6. Someone said the to use a BB motor in the EXO, you need to do some modifications. What are they?
7. I'm guessing the Micro doesn't come with a ball diff. Is it that much of an improvement over stock (What setup is it? Solid Axle? :confused: )
8. Anyone know any inexpensive chargers that can charge 8 cells?
9. Do tires wear down that fast on a Micro? How often will I need to buy tires if I drive out on the street?

I'm guessing thats it, and it comes to about $480. Any other suggestions? I'm might enentually go with a BL motor.

1. 4wd is better for bashing because you never know how good of a surface you'll be running on.

2. I've had many problems with Hitec servos in the past. Stripping gears under light loads, just plain stopping working for no apparent reason, and they don't return to center nearly as accurately as a Futaba, JR, or Airtronics servo. But the 81Mg needed for my Team Epic EXO chassis has been doing great so far.

3. I don't know

4. Chassis plate, t-plate/rear pod plate, battery brace, servo saver with threaded rod steering links, screws and nuts for mounting the battery brace and rear t-plate.

5. I used small copper braid to connect the cells. Team Epic sells it on their site. I'm not sure if anyone's matching them yet. GP is the brand of battery.

6. I don't have my Speed 300 yet but will have it soon. From what I see of the Epic the only mod I should need to do is the sameone everyone else does to make smaller pinions fit on any chassis.

7. Big improvement. However some ball diffs need a lot of work to make them feel as smooth as they should. I run front and rear GH ball diffs because GH is the only one making a front ball diff. These are great but needed a lot of time on sand paper and polish to make them smooth.

8. dunno

9. The rubber tires last a long time. I'm actually still running my stock tires. Granted my car doesn't see a whole lot of use but it's still been quite some time.

[durman]

N/M did a search and found my answer:o

[Tstalion79]

Get the integy rear ball diff. Its the best one. It has the same design as the HPI rear ball diff, but it uses a delrin spur gear which is far superior to the plastic gear used by HPI.

[k_sw31]

Hey can you shoot me a link to the integy one? How much are they? thanks :)

[Tstalion79]

I think they are under 25

www.microrcshop.com has them

[k_sw31]

one more thing on my christmas list ....................... :p ;)

[Heavy Throttle]

Got my Micro Today and assembled it.

http://lindquistproductions.com/heavy_throttle/micro_rs4/images/picture01.jpg

http://lindquistproductions.com/heavy_throttle/micro_rs4/images/picture02.jpg

http://lindquistproductions.com/heavy_throttle/micro_rs4/images/picture03.jpg

http://lindquistproductions.com/heavy_throttle/micro_rs4/images/picture04.jpg

Very Nice kit to put together. The hardest part was figureing out were to mount the electronics. Defintly try the body on when you think you know to put everything. Had to keep moving mine around using the corvette body. Otherwise than that pretty nice. This thing zips around good in my basment with just the nimh camera batts I have right now. Can't wait to open her up in a few days to see what she can do, then off to get larger batteries. :D

[k_sw31]

Looks great :D

You may want to get an aluminum pinion though, I found that they dont last long, plus, plastic meshs better on metal :)

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Hey guys, where can I get the elite modified at a cheaper price? Ya know, how you can get the speed 300's for only 20$, I want the elite because it wont have so much torque, but where can I get it for cheap?

The elite mod has more torque but less top end. The Speed 300 has more top speed but less torque and less run time(by alot)

If you find a place to get an inexpensive elite mod LMK please.
Thanks :)

[k_sw31]

I woulda though it should be the other way around? Cause the Speed 300 is a bigger motor than the elite? Sorta like running a 550 motor vs. a 540 motor?:confused:

[ugman]

Hey guys, where can I get the Speed 300 motor? Links would be helpful...

[Heavy Throttle]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Looks great :D

You may want to get an aluminum pinion though, I found that they dont last long, plus, plastic meshs better on metal :)

Thanks for the tip. I was a bit disapointed the kit came with the plastic, but for sure now I will get a metal one.

Here's it all finished.

http://lindquistproductions.com/heavy_throttle/micro_rs4/body01/picture02.jpg

Just a plain coat of paint with just a few stickers. I've got my show body, a Proline Dodge Dakota Truck Body, on my christmas list and paint that up to have a super cool paint job even getting an airbrush to do all my body painting with. Yipee...

Drove real nice, I can't wait to see what a 7.2 pack can do, it was able to zip around all night at work on the nimh AA's. I've had a sport 2, but this one's a keeper. I think the main fact is i can whip this out almost anywhere I find a small smooth place to play, the sport 2 needed a large area, and there was no track to race on so I sold it, still was a cool car to build and enjoy for a month, but this thing is just too cool...

[slaf]

I just ordered a Micro RS4 with Mustang body and a Novak Spy ESC.

What's your runtime with these setting ?

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by ugman
Hey guys, where can I get the Speed 300 motor? Links would be helpful...

Here is a link to it. There arn't many places that sell them for the micro but here is one of them. I don't think there are any better prices for it out there.

http://www.teamspeedster.com/store/itemDesc.php?itemNumber=RS4002


k_sw31- I would think so too but since I don't know much about electric motors I don't know why it is that way. lol I only know the Speed 300 is the fastest of all the motors with more torque than stock and less run time than all the motors. The elite mod has the most torque, good runtime, and more speed than stock.

Maybe it has to do with the number of winds in them?! :confused: Im pretty much clueless I know nothing about motors. :p Electrics anyway. :p

[ronbeck]

the proline truck bodies are narrow!!!!!
was disapointed that the run the narrowest wheel setting.
and if you had problehms fitting electronics on the vett
you won't like the fit woth the truck body.
it's so low that the whole antena base sticks throught the bed.
and the fenders ripped really easy after small crash.

:D just to let you know. if you get it post pics

[ugman]

I have a radio question. I know that RTR kits come in 5 different frequencies. I guess the one I'm getting is channel 5. What are the frequencies for channel 1 -> 5?

[Heavy Throttle]

Slaf,

I'm not sure, the book states 40 mins but i'm running a higher pinion that was suggested right now. It seemed to run for quite awhile last night, won't be able to tell this weekend until I goto the small local oval track and give here a full non-stop run. I plan on getting the 7.2 promatch packs here after christmas too.
---
ronbeck,

Thanks for the heads up!! I had to move my electronics five, yea really five times to get my body to fit properly. It looks like everything is really crammed in on yours. Small electronics defintly are almost a must in some of these things. I won't be able to resist the urge and will get that body eventually anyway. lol...

[MMTM]

I picked this box up from Lowes for $20. I can now securely carry my radio, micro, parts/tools, and charger all in this sweet lockable case. It also looks pretty pimp with the metal casing. All the foam inside if perforated so its easy to fit the case to your stuff. Check it out.

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/mbox1.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/mbox2.JPG

http://www.knology.net/~MonsterPirate/images/mbox3.JPG

[ronbeck]

welll i just love how the body looks and was going to order the penguin 3500lm chassis, but wouldn't help.
i finally bought a novak xxl rx for my micro. lots more room.
but running my old porsche body. hondles better then the truck.

[Heavy Throttle]

Originally posted by MMTM
I picked this box up from Lowes for $20.

And the sad thing is hobby shops and online retailers sell the same cases for 40-50$!!! I use the same case for luggin my chargers around, got mine at Lowes too. Nice setup, I'm looking into the trinity hauler bag for mine.

[nmt6789]

Whats the fastest a micro can go with an upgraded motor? I want to get one but, if i raced at my local track, i dont know if i would be able to see it because of the boards. Also are diffrent chassis legal????

[Tstalion79]

Stock they go close to 20 mph. With the elite mod, around 25 with TONS of torque, and with the big block close to 30. 30 MPH in something that small is absolutely ridiculously fast looking so dont think its slow. And yes, the optional chassis's are legal. I run the epic EXO. Makes a BIG difference.

[InspGadgt]

Saw these today at a LHS. They looked too thick to me to fit a micro tire but they were only $3 a pair so I figured I'd try them out. Word of advice...DON'T...they are not even close to fitting. Would have been cool though if they did!

[jkerr0043]

Has anyone else had a problem with the TRC foams chunking the sidewall on high traction asphault?

[Tstalion79]

You cant use the TRC foams on asphault. They were designed for carpet. You will also chunk wiht the orion foams. On asphalt just use the soft HPI rubbers.

[jkerr0043]

Do you need adapters to run the Integy alloy wheels? Also, do the HPI soft tires come with inserts or are they a seperate part number?

[Tstalion79]

No you can run the integy ones without adapters. However, you shouldnt get alloy rims for anything other than showing off your car. They are heavier than the plastic ones, thus causing slower acceleration, and they can bend if you take a digger into a wall.

[jkerr0043]

Give me the best racing combo then for cleaned and soda sprayed parking lot tracks. We're running on a track that we run our 1:10 scale cars on as well and we're running big block/ speed 300/ or wattage 370 motors and 6 cells. I ran the foams a couple of times on the parking lot track and that's all i've raced with so I don't have anything to compare them to.

Also what inserts should I run if any. I've been looking at all of the internet stores and they have tons of wheels and some tires but no inserts. I know you need them.

[jkerr0043]

Anyone try the Ratzas Holes? They come with inserts and you can get them in soft racing compound.

[Tstalion79]

Yeah they are good, but i think the hpi soft tires are the best by far.

[InspGadgt]

JKerr, Check out www.teamepic.net they have a setup link there for their chassis. Personally I think it's the best one on the market. I believe it's stock front tires with soft rears.

[samaj]

My TC3 dosen't run quiet.....? The belt driven cars are so quiet & feel smooth. My TC3 dosent feel te same. Is that o.k for a shaft driven car...? Or maybe something is wrong.......?

Please Help.

[jkerr0043]

You should probably be asking that in the TC3 forum, but since I drive a TC3, you may want to check your srup and pinion to make sure they're clean and the gear mesh is correct. Also, have you broken in your ring and pinion gears? What you want to do is when you put the gearboxes togethter, Mark a point where the ring gear and the beveled pinion meet. This way, when you remove them, you can put them back in the exact same place. These gears were into each other and form a patteren and you want that pattern to stay the same. With new gear it may be a little noisy at first but as the gears wear into each other they will quiet out. Also make sure you're putting a little diff lube on those gears. There are a lot of other things that can make the car noisy but it everything is built correctly and tuned right, it shouldn't be much worse than a belt drive car.

[catalysst]

Has anyone had a problem with the hpi front one-way? The people that I work with have had the same issues I have had. The plastic tube for the front diff/one-way breaks after about 2 min of running. The dogbones fly onto the track and then I have to go searching for them. Can anybody think of anyways to fix this or is the one-way a completely useless part?

[Scarab RC]

I called and wrote HPI about the plastic tabs breaking on the diff housing where they spline into the front pulley when you run the front one-way. They're very poor answer is that it shouldn't happen if you run the stock motor. You can also break them if you smack the boards to hard. I think HPI should be supporting this problem a bit more. They aren't even working on a new diff case design or anything. Everyone having this problem should call HPI and complain like I did. It's the only way they might address the problem. The HPI Customer Service Phone number is (949) 753-1099. CALL!

Scarab

[pchan]

What are you talking about?

HPI made a alloy front diff case already!!!

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/parts/w_72378_01.jpg

[Scarab RC]

WHAT THE HELLL!!!!! I didn't know that!!!! The HPI customer service morons didn't say anything about it (I even called twice and talked to two different people!)!!! What's the part number? Where can I buy one?

Scarab

[Scarab RC]

It's brand new on the HPI website. Part #72378. $35.00. Aluminum Front Diff Frame. It's about damn time. Wonder why the morons in customer service didn't know about this?

Scarab

[catalysst]

I went searching a few hours earlier and found the aluminum case. HPI should include it with the one-way because their is no way around breaking the plastic. I work at a local hobbytown usa and I know we will have to sell them together to get the one-way's out the door.
thanks for the info.

[iglehart]

I just got my micro rs4. Any tips on building it?
How do I make it go fast! :cool:

[k_sw31]

6 cells, gear up, and your flying :D

[Heavy Throttle]

Originally posted by k_sw31
Looks great :D

You may want to get an aluminum pinion though, I found that they dont last long, plus, plastic meshs better on metal :)

I got myself a 10 tooth steal and this thing flys now. I was running the 11 tooth plastic for starters but the LHS didn't have the 11 tooth in just the 10. I'm really enjoying this car, can whip it out just about anywhere and runs times are at least 30 mins or more with the AA's I got. Can't image what a modifed and 7.2 can do, hope to get it on the local oval tomarrow and really get her smokin, maybee even show off to the other "larger" scale on-roaders. hehe :D

[Tstalion79]

Guys instead of spending the 35 on that case, just get the GH front ball diff or one way. Smoother and more durable than the HPI one anyway. The HPI one also doesnt hold a setting well AT ALL. THey constantly change their "stickiness".

[k_sw31]

Golden Horizons sounds like a nursing home :p

Imgine a bunch of 80 year olds working on a CNC machine :p

[Scarab RC]

K_sw31,

That's funny! :D !

GH is known for somewhat shoddy parts. I'd buy HPI and pay a higher premium for a better part. In most cases you get what you pay for. The aluminum case is new. My LHS's distributor doesn't even list it yet.

Scarab

[Scarab RC]

Question:

(This may be a stupid one, but in the Immortal words of Mr. Garrison, "There are no stupid questions, just stupid people.")

Does Carbon Fiber or Graphite act as a conductor? I sandwiched a battery pack inbetween the lower and upper deck of my Ratzas chassis with no shrink wrap to cover the connections. I slapped some two-sided tape on the bottom over the exposed connections and went on my way. That pack was peaked the night before and when I wen to run it the next day the voltage was around 3.4v, which is wierd to begin with. I'm thinking somehow I shorted the pack. What do you guys think? (Don't scold me about the stupid-ness of no shrink wrap and the two-sided tape stuff. It was late)

Scarab

[Got Speed]

I am not sure if carbon fiber is a conductor but I think two sided tape is.

[metalry101]

Hey~
Way to go finding that aluminum front diff housing. I just bought my friend's Micro off of him a few weeks ago and it's already broken. I got it for 225 and it has all three of the titanium chassis' made by Hardcore, a front one way that either the splines that grap the pulley break, or the pulley strips (which is one of the things broken right now), the Big Block, 1100 mAh 7.2 volt battery, LRP esc, Futaba radio, and oh ya, the front steel universals. I think i'll be getting that aluminum diff housing soon, that should help a lot. If only they made an aluminum front pulley. Or do they? The other thing broken is of course the left front knuckle arm, but I ordered a Megatech replacement one, so it shouldn't break. Any suggestions by anyone on what or what not to get aluminum. I want to pimp the thing, but I don't want it to be so damn heavy that it's slow, or way expensive. Anyways, any suggestions for upgrades that I don't already have? One more thing? Any suggestions for a sweet 150 mm body? I know what ones are made, and I run a Skyline body right now, and it's way way sweet, but I want a new one, and I'm thinkin either 360 Modena, Skyline again, or M3. Yes, I know that's about half of the 150 mm bodies but does anyone have any suggestions? Thanx

[jkerr0043]

I like the Modena. Check mine out a few pages ago. http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=35796&perpage=25&pagenumber=46
GH makes an aluminum front pully. Here's the link for that. http://66.70.235.59/Merchant2/merchant.mv?Screen=PROD&Store_Code=M&Product_Code=GH02327p&Category_Code=mp_gh
If you want a pimped out back end, check out the Ratzas pro rear deck with VCS shock. It looks awesome and I like the way the shock handles too.

[metalry101]

Thanx jkerr0043. Ur Micro is off the hook. The paint job is way tight. Thanx for the link for the aluminum pulley too. 10 bux? Hell ya, I can afford that. I love the Micro, cheap hop up stuff. I have an E-Maxx too, and everything for that is way expensive. Anyways, I don't think my micro is going to look like yours because I don't really plan on racing it, but damn it's cool to tell kids at school that I have a car that's 8 inches long, 4WD, and pulls 30+ mph. Their jaws just drop, it's soo cool. Anyways, I gotta get some shut eye, but thanx for the info, and to everyone else in the forum, I could still use some suggestions on what bodies you like, and what hop-ups to get. Cya

[Scarab RC]

Anyone else have an answer to my question above?

Scarab

[metalry101]

Dude~
I have no idea if carbon fiber acts as a conductor or not, but I'm almost positive that graphite does. Hell, carbon fiber and graphite may be almost the same thing, I don't know. But I do know that you're not supposed to go fishing in a lightning storm w/ a graphite rod becuz you'll BBQ ur own ass (that would be kinda kewl). In other words, I think graphite conducts pretty damn well, but I have no idea about the carbon fiber. Hope that helps. Cya

[jkerr0043]

Graphite, carbon fiber, all of those are conductors. That's why you alson dont want to mount your receiver directly on the chassis and you really don't want the antenna touching it if you can help it.

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Got Speed
I am not sure if carbon fiber is a conductor but I think two sided tape is.

I tested my two-sided tape. There is alot of resistance but not infinite. So if your battery was left there long enoughit would short it out. You can use electrical tape in the future if you don't want use shrink wrap. Shrink wrap is the best though.:)

[Scarab RC]

I shrunk wrapped the battery and everything was peachy. Did we all like the little scientific experiment with conductivity?

Scarab

[french-fry]

Well, I finally finished my micro, hope you enjoy:
http://home.attbi.com/~french-fry/Front.jpg
http://home.attbi.com/~french-fry/Back.jpg

Happy Holidays,
-Alex

[InspGadgt]

Graphite and carbon fiber are conductors. Double sided tape is foam rubber so it's an insulator...how good of one I don't know.

[InspGadgt]

ok I finally have chassis pics of my Micro which is in progress for another modification. I am changing out the rear body/shock mount from having the posts behind the motor on an extended deck to just in front of the rear wheels on a cross brace much like the RC12L3.

[InspGadgt]

New Front GH shocks :)

[InspGadgt]

New GH rear shock :)

[InspGadgt]

As you can see in the above pic the cut up old shock/body mount is a temporary until I can make my new one. Currently I'm having a hard time finding the aluminum stand offs I want to use. The Speed300 with motor plate combo from Teamspeedster works out quite nicely. It fits on the stock rear axle with a 13T pinion with no mocifications. The gear mesh is a bit on the loose side though so I did grind away on the rear axle housing just a tad to get better mesh. In this pic if you look very closely you'll see I beveled the edge of the chassis and the aluminum t-plate mount to better clear the Speed300 motor. Without this the suspension had very little movement before the motor was hitting. Also the motor sat right on top of the t-plate restricting it's movement making the rear too stiff for my taste so I thinned the t-plate under the motor to give it clearance and also a softer rear suspension. Putting the GH rear shock on it makes it feel about right on compression but now it has fantastic twist to it so I should get awesome grip out of the rear...or so I hope. Quite possibly I'll be able to run soft tires on all 4 corners for max grip.

[^j!nx^]

here are a few pics of 2 of my micros(i have 3) I also have a question. Who makes the WRX body for the micro? i know i have seen it before but lost the link


http://users.nac.net/rs-scooby/jynx/micro/DSCF0024.JPG
http://users.nac.net/rs-scooby/jynx/micro/DSCF0021.JPG

[Tstalion79]

Well i got my micro in the mail today :D

Damn i got a ton of stuff. I will list it:

Micro with corvette body
Novak Spy ESC (cant beleive how damn small it is in person)
Epic EXO chassis with a pack of 4 t bars (all different stiffness)
Ratzas pro upper deck
Epic servo mount
GH upper arm mount (aluminum)
Adjustable front steering slider (aluminum)
GH front ball diff
GH rear ball diff
Integy 6 spoke double aluminum rims (just for show)
1100 mah nimh cells
Super brain charger


Im gonna build it tonight. I cant beleive how tiny this stuff is.

[InspGadgt]

You won't need the steering slider. The EXO chassis uses threaded rod links instead.

[Tstalion79]

woops:eek: I just finished assembling the rear end and its going onto the chassis right now. The parts fit/finish looks great thus far, especially on the epic exo chassis. Hey for all of you with the epic exo, should i use the stiffer or more flexible t bar for carpet. I put the stiff one in for now.

[wolfy2386]

When I ordered my Micro from tower I had no idea exactly how small this car is. I'm one of the few lucky ones on the Jersey shore that doesn't have a LOCAL hobbyshop (nearest one is an hour away) and i usually have to order my stuff from tower. I opened the box today and **** this thing is small! I can't wait to finish building it and start driving. BTW does anyone have anyone know how long a stock micro runs for on 4 600mah AA cells?

[k_sw31]

Probly about 20 minutes :cool:

[redneck]

hpi has the led light set on there site but a small discription about them do they come with 2 clear and 2 red lights or all clear how do they mount has anyone put them in a nsx yet if yes i would like to see pics if possible

[wolfy2386]

another question I was looking at teh wing for my cobra and i noticed what looked light headlight enclosures. Did HPI add them to teh new Cobra R bodies or is this just part of teh mold?

[redneck]

i just ordered new hpi tires and rims do the inserts come with the tires those little felt peices or do i have to order them seperate could not find a listing for them on hpi site

[InspGadgt]

redneck, I believe it's 2 clears and 2 red LEDs. As far as the mounting system there is none made. All the ones you see are scratch built. The tires do come with foam tape inserts like the stock one.

wolfy, those are actually stickers for the head lights. HPI does a fantastic job detailing their stickers for body details like lights, grills, vents, ect ect.

[redneck]

InspGadgt
thank you for your info my local LHS puts a order in tomarow it would have been my last chance to get them before the holidays but if they come with the tires i dont need to order any thing else
thanks again for the quick response

[Tstalion79]

Hey it also looks like I cant use my aluminum upper bulkhead/arm mount because you need to cut some away for servo clearance on the EXO chassis:(

[Scrad]

With all of the parts you can't use, you should have gotten a Penguin chassis... :D

[Got Speed]

Originally posted by Scrad
With all of the parts you can't use, you should have gotten a Penguin chassis... :D

LOL what do you need once you get a exo chassis? :p ;) :cool:

hehe

[Scrad]

You have to cut that bulkhead and put the hpi rear pod on. Too much work for a incomplete chassis. :p

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
Hey it also looks like I cant use my aluminum upper bulkhead/arm mount because you need to cut some away for servo clearance on the EXO chassis:(

Well you still can...you just have to cut the aluminium. I've seen several EXO chassis where people used the aluminum upper mount.

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Scrad
You have to cut that bulkhead and put the hpi rear pod on. Too much work for a incomplete chassis. :p

Only the upper front suspension brace...any micro rear pod will fit it just fine. Cutting the brace takes all of 3 seconds with a pair of wire cutters, a little bit longer if you want to get fancy with a dremel. That's hardly too much work...well worth it to get the low CG and handling the EXO offers.

[Tstalion79]

Yeah the EXO seems like an extremely high quality kit so far. I cant wait to run it. I have a ratzas pro upper deck, should I use that too? I know i dont need to but will it make the car better for carpet?

[Scrad]

Yeah, but you get everything you need with the Penguin chassis for less money. Plus you don't have to cut anything to make things fit and you get a rear pod.


Tstalion, put the ratzass rear pod on it and run about 10 weight oil with no spring. That's what my friend ran in his EXO. I run 30 weight no spring, lightest t bar, and magenta foam. But I have the Penguin chassis.

[InspGadgt]

The Penguin chassis is $55 for the regular one and $63 for the LeMans...EXO is $48.95...so actually the Penguin is more expensive.

[ugman]

Guys, I was still trying to decide about getting the 300 motor, but when I looked at the manual for the Noval SPY, it says the maximum motor you can use is a 280. What recivers are you guys using with this motor (Speed 300)?

[Tstalion79]

Im pretty sure that I have seen people with the Spy and big block motor. Novak might just be saying that because of liability issues.

As for the EXO: many people say that it handles slightly better than the penguin, and quite noticably better than the ratzas chassis. It has all of the adjustability of the penguin chassis (i have a pack of 9 t bars of different stiffness's) and it has a lower center of gravity, and the steering assembly is virtually bind-free (not to mention lighter) and you have more electronics placements with the steering assembly. It also comes with cool stickers which make it go alot faster:D

[Scrad]

When I got my Penguin they didn't have any stickers. I was wondering why mine isn't as fast...:) They included 3 or 4 t bars with mine. I've only tried the stiffest and the softest so far.

Yes you can run the spy with a BB.

[JR in NC]

You guys amaze me to no end. How many of you could go back to a stock chassis, put in a stock motor, use 4 AA nimh and run 500 laps on a 100 ft track and do it in 1 hour and 16 mins. Oh yeah that's also using a 9 tooth pinion. Just so you don't think I'm kidding the payout on 1st place was $67.50. This is fun, this is the way these cars were supposed to be used.

If you were going to spend that much $$$$$$$$$$$$$$, go buy a 1/10th scale or an 1/8th scale and really go fast and get something for your money.

Micros are great training tools they improve your driving skills and your reaction times, Heck my son just got invited to the ROAR onroad nats next year thanks to the skills he has picked up from a micro. Where do you go after your club races, to the HPI Challenge. Good Luck if you live in South Florida or NORCAL. Everyone knows ROAR will never approve the Micros so why drop the dollars.




JR in NC


P.S. not trying to come down on you, I just don't understand all the money

[Tstalion79]

It doesnt matter if they can be raced in a "roar" environment dude. All that matters is that tracks have races for them

[redneck]

its just a mater of personal preferance

[InspGadgt]

JR,

Because it's fun to have something to hop up. I also race 1/12th pan, several 1/10th classes, and 1/8th on-road nitro. With the exception of the Micro almost all of my cars are some sort of FT version which either needs no hopups or none are available. I ran my Micro bone stock for several months with the exception of 2000mah 6 cell AA batteries and enjoyed the heck out of it. And now I'm having a lot of fun planning out and turning it into my ultimate micro, what I personally feel is the best balance between performance enhancing parts and light weight stock parts.

[Scarab RC]

If you are racing I can see spending the $. If you are just playing then just get a 7.2 battery pack, and better motor and have fun. No need for anything else unless you have money to burn!

I race, therefore I spend.

Scarab

[french-fry]

Man, this forum moves fast.

In response to the question about HPI LED sets, have a look at my post on the previous page. Two clear LEDs and two red ones. I found that the best way to mount them is with hot glue. Scratch away some of the paint where you want the headlights to be and the put a dab of hot glue. Then, just stick the light straight into it. Not only does this look much cleaner than their goofy aluminum tape, but the glue dries clear and "conducts" light well. Definately a cool addition.

-Alex

[redneck]

with the head lighta do you still put the decals on and light shine through them or do you modify the decals in some way i should have my body and lights and chrome rims on friday im trying to get all the info i can so i can do it right the first time

i am getting the hpi NSX body spraying it gold like this pic

[redneck]

im going to race mine but in stock form got it last week in a trade
mainly because parts are cheaper for them and i like doing up bodies considering you can get 2 micro bodies for the price of one touring car body i like that

[Dr. Wankel]

Hello, I just purchased a Micro RS4 RTR and would like to add some upgrades to it to improve its performance and longevity.
I may race in a stock class but for now I'll just be bashing to practice. I've heard about aluminum pinions and a bearing to replace a plastic bushing (what size is the bearing?). Thanks for your help and patience.

[JR in NC]

Rednck,

I gotta know where you shop that you can pick-up 2 Micro bodies for 1 1/10th scale touring bodies. I've looked the internet up and down and never have I seen those prices. You gotta tell me where. Please!!!!!!!



JR in NC

[JR in NC]

Sorry about the misspell

[redneck]

my LHS sells touring car bodies for 35 to 40 dollars and the nsx body i ordered for my micro will be around the 20 dollar price range so two micro bodies might cost more but not by much (a couple of dollars ) this is in canadian currency

[jkerr0043]

your LHS is ripping you. I just bought a Stratus 2.0 from Hobby People for $22. They charge about 14-17 for a micro body.

[Tstalion79]

he said canadian money.

[Tstalion79]

OH by the way, all of you with the EXO chassis, i couldnt understand the directions on "cutting teh tab" in the front steering knuckles. What should i do? And can i use my aluminum knuckles?

[redneck]

jkerr0043

you paid 22 dollars in us funds now add the exchange rate and 15% taxes on to that if i go to the states it will cost me about 10.00 dollars in tolls to get across the bridge then you can add that to the 22 dollars for the body lets not forget the exchange on the money that body for 22 dollars would cost me about 45 dollars now if my LHS is riping me off how did i save between 5 and 10 dollars by dealing with them

Plus i get a 15% discount at my LHS

[Scarab RC]

Redneck,

Sounds like you should just move to the good ol' US of A. It's the best country on the planet! Don't believe me? I don't see people rushing to move to Canada or anywhere else for that matter. Everyone wants what the US has and then ******* behind our backs. That's OK too. Because we still know we are the best. We have the most powerful military that the Earth has ever seen. We have the most freedoms. The best standard of living. Etc... And we have good RC parts too!!! Stop being a stepchild and join the family! Come on down!!!

Scarab

[french-fry]

On my M3, I cut out a round section of the headlight decal to give a really bright look, but I left the tail lights alone. The decals are somewhat transparent and do a good job of difusing the light. I would imagine that you could do the same for the front, but I wanted to be sure that the headlights really stood out.

-Alex

[redneck]

i love visiting the US being a truck driver iv been all over the US but i am proudly Canadian its where i was raised and where my kids are being Raised but if i ever did move to the US it would be around oakwood Georgia i spent a week and a half down there when my truck broke down between the
horse farms
road atlanta track
nascar track
Oakwood Georgia is truly REDNECK COUNTRY

[Scarab RC]

Redneck,

LOL

I can appreciate the pride you have in your country. Georgia is definitely redneck country!

Scarab

[redneck]

when i was drivng long haul through the states i used to buy all my parts state side but now i stay local driving dump trucks beter money get to go home every night and spend time with my kids and sleep in my own bed with my wife not in a rumbling truck by my self

its a better life staying local time to race as well

its just not worth crossing the border just for parts

[jkerr0043]

I didn't realize your were in Canada.

[redneck]

jkerr0043

no prob even canadians like to race

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by Tstalion79
OH by the way, all of you with the EXO chassis, i couldnt understand the directions on "cutting teh tab" in the front steering knuckles. What should i do? And can i use my aluminum knuckles?

if you look at the bottom of the steering knuckle where the steering link screws on you'll see a pin extending down that with the stock setup is a steering limiter. Because the tie rod ends the EXO uses are thicker then the stock link they hit that pin so you have to cut it off. Yes you can still use your aluminium steering knuckle but you'll still have to cut that piece off. It's easiest with a dremel.

[JR in NC]

I was born and raised in GA, and I loved the state. Parents brought me to NC. I grew up 10 miles from Petty Enterprizes. I played football in H.S. against Kyle,but where else can you drive from the mountains to the ocean in a day. Lowes Motor Speedway is 75 miles from home Rockingham is less than an hour and I've got 3 Firday nite tracks within 25 miles, Bristol is 3hours west and Richmond is 3 north.

Only prob no LHS's and no road courses,but we got the "03 On- Road Electric Nat's in Durham this June.

Gettin' late Merry Christmas and Happy New Years To all us R/C crazzies.


JR in NC

[k_sw31]

Originally posted by JR in NC
I was born and raised in GA, and I loved the state. Parents brought me to NC. I grew up 10 miles from Petty Enterprizes. I played football in H.S. against Kyle,but where else can you drive from the mountains to the ocean in a day.

Ha! Here in western washington you can do that in a few hours! Though it may not be exactly the warmest beach :rolleyes: :p

[jkerr0043]

but where else can you drive from the mountains to the ocean in a day.

Here in San Diego you can go from the mountains that this time of year are covered in snow, to the beach and watch the surfers in about an hour.

[InspGadgt]

Here in Hawaii you can drive from the Mountains to the beach in about 10 minutes.

[redneck]

wow did we ever take this thread off topic

[JR in NC]

O.k. O.k.,

I give up, but you don't have Winston Cup in your backyard!!!




JR in NC

[redneck]

wish i did

[jkerr0043]

California Speedway- 1 1/2 hours
Irwindale Speedway- 1 hour
Cajon Speedway (kinda of a cruddy track but what the heck) 5 minutes.
My cousin has been racing late models for a few years between Cajon and Irwindale and we're putting together a Southwest tour car this season. I'm on the pit crew. We'll be going all over the western US.

[jkerr0043]

By the way, has anyone had trouble with the keyed diff ring adapter on a GH ball diff stripping? Mine did when I started running my 370 motor, all of a sudden the diff started slipping bad. I pulled it apart and the flat spots for the key on the axel to fit into had been rounded. Anyone else have this problem? Also I heard that you can't run 1 peice rims on the HPI ball diff. Is this true?

[Scarab RC]

I have freeed up my drivetrain amazingly. After you release the throttle the tires and belt continue to spin for about 5 seconds. I have freeed up the front end even more. The non-drive (non-pulley) side front tire continues to spin for about 10 to 15 seconds after throttle release. However, the front tire attached to the pulley stops just after the pulley stops turning. I have added Teflon lub to the plastic part that the drive shaft passes through. Any ideas to free up that side of the front?

Scarab

[k_sw31]

Heh, 2wd freed my tranny up so much, when my gear mesh is perfect, I can flick the wheels and they'll cost for a few seconds :)

[InspGadgt]

Originally posted by jkerr0043
By the way, has anyone had trouble with the keyed diff ring adapter on a GH ball diff stripping? Mine did when I started running my 370 motor, all of a sudden the diff started slipping bad. I pulled it apart and the flat spots for the key on the axel to fit into had been rounded. Anyone else have this problem? Also I heard that you can't run 1 peice rims on the HPI ball diff. Is this true?

I havn't had this problem yet but you might try an old school pan car trick since it's the same type of diff...CA glue the diff rings in place.

[metalry101]

K, I totally want one of those aluminum front diff carriers, but I cannot find the damn thing on HPI's website. I searched it, looked through the lists, etc, and I couldn't find it at all. The stock one does not last very long with Big Block power and 7.2 volts. Neither does the diff pulley for that matter. I want aluminum for both of those, and I've seen posts for them in here, but I don't know where they are and I don't really feel like scrolling through 50 pages worth of posts to find them. So the point being, can anyone tell me where I can find them and how much they are? I like low prices because my funding is very low. I owe my mom four hundred bux, some of which is from buying my Micro. Also, does anyone in here run 9.6 volts? I want to run 8 of those new rechargable AA's w/ like 1700-2000 mAh capacity. That would be insane speed and run time. Will this fit if I put a mini steering servo in? Any suggestions on what servo to get? I've heard some racing leagues in Cali run 9.6 volts and that the cars do 35+. One last question. when I bought my micro off a friend, it came with the Big Block and an Elite Mod. The Elite Mod doesn't work because one of the motor mounting tabs is broken off. My friend said that I could send it in to Orion and get it fixed for less coinage than it would cost to buy a new one. Anybody know anything about that? I'm done now, but any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx guyz

[jkerr0043]

It's not the rings them selves. It's the purple adapter that the ring goes on and keys into the brass part on the axel. It almost seems like the oring thats between them is too thick and won't allow it to get good bite and when a lot of power was applied, it slipped out and rounded it.

[InspGadgt]

hmmm...maybe your running your diff too loose? I'm gonna have to check mine to see if it's doin the same thing.

[InspGadgt]

updated pics on my rear body/shock mount mods for the Epic chassis.

[InspGadgt]

See how much better the body mount positioning is on the Toyota GT1 body...

[InspGadgt]

Also access to the motor is much easier...all I need now are aluminum standoffs to complete the modification. I'll be using either shorter aluminum standoffs with the AE 4-40 screw with the body mount hole in them for the body posts or the aluminum body post for the Tamiya F1 car...

[redneck]

just got my nsx body and light kit started working on the body when i noticed that the headlight buckets are made for four head lights not two i will have to order the add on lights now another week wait my local LHS only stocks hpi kits you have to order parts as you need them

[jkerr0043]

I just mounted up a set of new tires and screwed up and got a big blotch of tire glue on the foot print. Any ides on how to get it off? Should I just try and run it and hope it wears off. It's goanna handle real funkey if I do that.

[Grifter]

Guys I need your help.

I have a $25 Gift Certificate to Tower, I wanted to get stuff for my Rustler but relized it's not really worth it. I still kinda want a car to fool around with, but I dont want to spend a lot. I can get the Micro for around $75 with the GC. So should I get it? I already have all the electrics. Or is the Micro a pain and breaks a lot becasue it's small?

I heard a lot of great things about it but I dont know

The Gift Certificate epires tomorrow..the 22nd.

Thanks!!

[^j!nx^]

get the micro its a blast. i own 3 of them and have yet to brake one(other then the plastic drive shafts when you upgrade to larger motors and more cells)