New HPI Savage SS 4.6 Kit with Nitro Star K4.6 Engine! [Archive] - Page 2

Duster_360

06-16-2005, 04:24 PM

I just did mine using 30wt silicone and it was very, very simple and quick, you could easily tell where the level of the fluid was in the shock body and one trip up and down with the piston was all it took to get rid of any trapped air.

I would've guessed thinner fluid would have been easier, but I guess being thinner its easier for air to string out in that fluid than a heavier weight fluid where it would tend to stay together.

Duster_360

06-16-2005, 04:28 PM

On another subject - clamp on type alum wheel hexes - avoid the ones Hot Bodies sells for the Savage (#61155), the screws are too small and they strip out without ever getting tight enough to clamp on the axle like they're supposed to.

Can't believe they used such a tiny screw, think its a 1mm allen. They are a waste of money - use some ones elses clamp ons which is what I'll be doing.

CRSMP5

06-16-2005, 06:40 PM

also clamp on hexes are smaller in diameter also... if you have stripped hex issues they will worsen it..

Duster_360

06-16-2005, 08:30 PM

You run stock hexes and just keep plenty of spare pins on hand? I know the stock ones are tight cause wheels always pull them off when you remove the wheels. Just get tired of chasing after pins that seem to go off and hide, lol!

CRSMP5

06-16-2005, 09:48 PM

honestly.. i never take my wheels off.. when i do my hexes stay put..

wheeleze

06-18-2005, 02:19 AM

I usually put a LITTLE loctite under my hexes, and am quite liberal on my axle nuts. Seems to keep things in place 4 me... I don't pull my wheels off often either.

Savage55

06-19-2005, 02:48 AM

This may seem stupid, but how do I know that I have the correct spur gear/clutch bell mesh? :confused: I cant seem to get it right... I've stripped 2 in like 3 weeks! :mad:

CRSMP5

06-19-2005, 08:46 PM

use a piece of a 1$ bill between the 2 and set it up, then roll the gears to get the piece of the bill out.. most say use a piece of paper.. but paper comes in different thicknesses so a 1$ bill is easiest way to explain..

Duster_360

06-19-2005, 10:03 PM

I use strips of paper cut 1/2 x 4 and roll it in between the gears. Its still important to check after you tighten everything that it didn't change.

You need to learn the feel of one that's properly meshed. Holding the spur still, there should be just the smallest amount of play between the two, just a tiny amount. If you don't have that play, its too tight. If the play's real noticeable, its too much.

Find someone's who is not having a prob and get them to let you look at it - check for that small amount of play. It me takes a few tries before I get satisfied with it. I learned real quick with a brushless electric setup - if it wasn't right, it would destroy spur in less than 10'. Little patience here pays off.

losi racer13

06-21-2005, 02:40 AM

Hey MP5 can you hook me up with some lcg tvp's

CRSMP5

06-21-2005, 06:21 AM

http://www.savageracer.com/forum/showthread.php?t=3599 you need to goto that thread and get intouch with PB as he is the money taker, this is for the order getting put in fri and all funds have to be to him by fri.. yes we are advertising/paying for that section on that forum and have photos and tech and all..

Bunsincunsin

07-03-2005, 06:12 PM

Has anyone tried the aluminum clutch shoes yet? How are the are the worth the money? Also how long are you supposed to go until you replace the stock clutch shoes?

RenHoek

07-05-2005, 09:24 AM

A month ago or so I switched from stock to Nova's aluminum clutch shoes, trying to keep from melting spur gears most of the time. That did the trick! The clutchbell was getting so hot (yeah, idle was low enough) that it'd melt the spur when it was just sitting there gassing up - definately not a mesh problem. I roughed em up a couple times, which helped for awhile, but before long, another spur would give its life so that I could bash.

Not a mark on this last gear since I switched!

-RenHoek

Duster_360

07-05-2005, 12:55 PM

Might want to use an Ofna vented stell CB too - help get rid of even more heat. I'm getting ready to try a set of Mugen carbon clutch shoes (also know as composite shoes) using a 17T vented Ofna CB (if work'll ever let me get it finished...). This is setup suggested by CRSMP5 to eliminate melting spurs.

Bunsincunsin

07-05-2005, 01:32 PM

Thanks for the tips, and Duster, tell me about how that setup goes after you run your truck. And where did you get the ofna vented clutch bell?

Duster_360

07-05-2005, 06:56 PM

Here -

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=1&products_id=2885

You'll need clutch shim kit to get it setup properly since the OFNA CB won't use that brass ring that HPI uses to space the stock CB.

Ofna P/N 10099 is the shim kit I used. Ace has that also and their service was great too, I had my order in 3 days if I remember right. I'll be buying from them again.

Bunsincunsin

07-05-2005, 07:29 PM

Thanks.

Bunsincunsin

07-06-2005, 11:18 PM

illbreakit

07-07-2005, 01:19 AM

Here's a pic of my new Savy with front tank conversion. All pieces are made myself. Enjoy

illbreakit

07-07-2005, 01:21 AM

The underneith.

The new style steering is on it's way, so I can get rid of the crappy servo saver.

losi racer13

07-07-2005, 01:32 AM

why dont u use the stock 4.6's? the cam servo saver is awesome.

doesgo

07-07-2005, 09:50 AM

Wow, very impressive illbreakit! Nice work! I love the look of the engine plate and tank conversion plate. And the lowered carbon fiber TVPs ain't bad either! Love them wheels, too.

wheeleze

07-07-2005, 12:24 PM

I recently noticed something about the differentials in my Savage. When I give the truck a push with out the engine in it every once in a while the differentials sound like they bind up and don't roll smoothly. but then it will be fine and runs smoothly again. What is causing this? Is it bad? :confused:

I'm not sure how common this is, but it was covered in another thread, just don't remember where :rolleyes: What's happening is that the 43T bevel gear is rubbing on the plastic outcroppings inside the diff housing that mount the bumper/plate. If you roll the truck slowly, you should notice that it keeps getting tight at the same spots. You'll be able to see a small groove if you pull the housings apart. The way I remedied mine was to shave a bit of the plastic off with a hobby knife, no problems since. And, yes, I made sure my diff gasket was set correctly, changed to aluminum cups, changed gears, housings, cups, to no avail, so i pulled out the knife...

Bunsincunsin

07-07-2005, 01:11 PM

Alright, thanks, I will probably fix that today.

graemevw

07-07-2005, 02:26 PM

Im going to buy a savage 46 when i get paid, but i have some very basic questions (im new to r/c).
The kit comes with no radio right?, I have an acoms techniplus system in my monster beetle, will this do? Im asuming the servo's that i have (dont know what they are, basic acoms jobs i suppose) wont be good enough. What servo's will i need?
What else will i need? I have fuel/fuel bottle and glow starter from my 1/10 buggy.
Thanx, im sure ill have loads more questions when i get it!!

Riprock

07-07-2005, 02:36 PM

Have been into RC Cars for a while... Just bought the Savage SS 4.6 Big Block... I am only in the first stages of building but can be happier with the product.... Can't wait to get it fired up. I have one question for any member on this thread. Should I purchase the reverse module for the truck or is there a different area I should focus on? :cool:

doesgo

07-07-2005, 09:37 PM

The reverse setup depends on your preferences. When I first got into nitro from electric I thought not having reverse would be a big deal, but it really isn't. I considered adding it to my Savage like my friend did, but I didn't, and now he has removed his. Just more weight and complexity for something that's simply not needed. You'll probably drive better for not having reverse, and if you have to run over to your vehicle once in a while to get it out of a situation....no biggie.

CRSMP5

07-07-2005, 11:09 PM

i loved reverse for a long time.. kept me from those big huge long walks to back it up from a big stick or something i failed to see (or a big swamp of mud that would suck your shoes off).. once i stopped bashign around and only raced i found it not needed..

Duster_360

07-14-2005, 07:12 PM

CRSMP5 - a question to be sure I'm not wasting time/money. I have a set of Ver3 black TVPs - these are compatible with roto start, correct?

Is there anything I need to do besides put the new backplate and etc in? Thanks!

CRSMP5

07-14-2005, 09:37 PM

version 2 and 3 fit roto start direct no mods needed

Duster_360

07-14-2005, 09:56 PM

Super news, thanks!

Waiting on a piece of linkage and mine's pretty much finished and ready to try out.

Monsterbrad

07-17-2005, 03:56 PM

ANY OF YOU GUYS PUT A ROTO START ON THE 4.6 YET??????
my pull starter broke
don't want to get another one

Duster_360

07-17-2005, 09:09 PM

I've got one for it, but haven't used it yet....

Monsterbrad

07-17-2005, 11:01 PM

where did you get it at????
I can't find one anywhere
I got another pull start on order but I kinda want the roto start
there is a problem I can see with the pull start cord melting on the little brass beshing that it rides on in the pull start assembley right where the string comes out!

Bunsincunsin

07-18-2005, 12:13 PM

Tower has it but it isn't in stock right now: http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSC8&P=ML

Duster_360

07-18-2005, 10:17 PM

Sorry, MB didn't see your question until now - I found it on ebay and it's cheaper than Tower too!

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5987305952&category=44028&tc=photo

He also offers just the gearset if that gets messed up....

mckenna185

08-07-2005, 06:59 PM

Anyone have recurring problems with the pull start on the savage 4.6 motor? It's a different design than the previous savage engine (OWB mounted in the engine), and this one seems to leak fuel past the bushing and onto the cord, which then causes it to jam (in the out position). Anyone else have this problem, or better yet know a fix for it? Thanks.

CRSMP5

08-07-2005, 08:25 PM

fuel leakage is common.. the older engines suffered from slippign 1 ways due to it..

now.. either your pulling too far.. OR a old issue from a hyper 8 port, which is what the k4.6 copies, if you overtighten the screws it puts enough of a load on it to prevent it from spoolign back in.. remove pull start, add loctite to the holes, put pull start back on, snug down, then back off 1/4 to 1/2 turn on the bolts and see if that helps..

mckenna185

08-07-2005, 08:36 PM

Yeah... my OWB slips quite a bit because of it too. But my current biggest frustration is the pull start jamming.

I'll try loosening the pull start and see what happens.

Thanks CRSMP5.

mckenna185

08-07-2005, 08:41 PM

Has anybody tried making a spacer or shim (ie a thin gasket) to add more clearance between the pull-start knot and the mounting face? It seems like that might work...

CRSMP5

08-08-2005, 09:18 PM

i would just try the simple old 8 port trick 1st.. if all else fails.. a simple shim/washer between the plastic and backplate at the bolts will work... gasket too much work..

be very carefull with the fuel you use.. the k4.6 does not like high castor oil fuel like traxxas/hpi/monsterbrew and bluethunder

yes i know bluethunder does not have castor.. but what ever they replaced the caster with is still bad..

Duster_360

08-08-2005, 10:03 PM

So the logical question is what fuel would you recommend for the 4.6? I use one of the ones you just rattled off in other rcs, TF. Was planning on trying MHP, but I've seen signs it runs hotter in my FR18 on road, so I haven't really settled on anything. Powermaster - I'm guessing has the castor also (they make TF for TRX) and that's the other I've been using. Thanks.

CRSMP5

08-09-2005, 05:54 AM

i am using odonnals and do not seem to have issues with built in the block 1 ways for the past summer and this year... i was running traxxas fuel and had issues with my hyper 8 port 1 way slipping... issue went away with the odonnals.. some have issues with odonnal though, say their 1 ways slip.. but i have to wonder if they use ARO and that might be why they have issues... me bad and do not.. LOL..

Duster_360

08-09-2005, 08:05 AM

Thanks! Just curious, but do you run 20 or 30%?

CRSMP5

08-09-2005, 09:06 AM

20% never had a need to shorten engine life by runing 30%

Duster_360

08-09-2005, 11:26 AM

10-4! Was hoping to that, lol, thanks as always, CR!

Duster_360

08-27-2005, 09:45 PM

What's this 2nd pin mod for the trans I just noticed on another forum. I don't want to tear the trans up with this 28. Anybody heard of it? Is it really necessary and worth doing?? I've got the 2 speed locked into 2nd (should be anyway - about 6 1/2t out on the adjustment). Thanks

CRSMP5

08-27-2005, 09:53 PM

its where they add a 2nd set screw for the finger to catch.. i say buy heavy duty 2nd though..

Duster_360

08-28-2005, 04:57 PM

Guess I'm confused, this must be for 21s and 25s - other than the 4.6 - I went back to loctite some things in the trans and mine already has 2 pins - unless I'm looking at the entirely wrong part.

You got a p/n or a can point me at the p/n for the HD 2nd? Sure that the 4.6 doesn't come with that already? They upgraded everything else on teh truck...

There's a bunch on SC (yea, I know...your fav) thats killing 2 spds in the 4.6- clutch for 2nd gear. Part of the advertised fix is a lube called Penephite by kroil. You put anything on the gears in the trans?

You were going to go w/3spd and lock 1/2 so you'd still have a 2 spd (2/3), but with 10% taller top gear - that ever work out? Thanks

Bunsincunsin

09-03-2005, 08:31 PM

What is the best tempurature for the 4.6 engine to be runnung at?

46u

09-03-2005, 08:54 PM

Mine runs around 250 to 260 and do not go over 270.

Bunsincunsin

09-04-2005, 01:52 PM

mmkay, thanks. :cool:

CRSMP5

09-05-2005, 10:36 PM

i have the 3 speed in mine.. gave up on 2 speed.. if keeping 2 speed get the heafty duty 2nd gear hpi makes..

http://www.hpiracing.com/press/pr87227.htm tower has them

Duster_360

09-06-2005, 09:23 PM

I'm trying to talk myself into getting the 3 speed and then adjusting it so it always starts in 2nd. Then I'll have a 2 speed but with the 10% taller gearing to take advantage of the torque the 4.6 has.

I'm waiting for the sportwerks servo mounts to arrive so I can go ahead with the mid-tank mod. I'm not satisfied with the stock arrangement cause I can't seem to get the throttle to open fully.

Thanks for the HD 2nd gear link!

46u

09-06-2005, 09:33 PM

I was talking to others on another form about the throttle. What I do not under stand some have no problem with the throttle opening all the way with stock set up some run the Ofna and so on. On my Savage 4.6 with the stock linkage I have no problem with it opening all the way.

Duster_360

09-06-2005, 10:03 PM

I'm not running stock TVPs - LCG Racing TVPs and none of the stock linkage will even come close to working - too short. I'm using Ofna linkage and slider kits on a Ofna alum servo arm. I'll be mounting the TH/Brake servo next to the engine and eliminate all the rods and the long travel. Guess I should have gone to that when I started with the TVPs, but I wanted to run it as near stock as I could so I could see and feel the diff the mid-tank mod made.

46u

09-06-2005, 10:06 PM

O OK mine is pretty much stock.

Duster_360

09-06-2005, 10:18 PM

Sorry, but CRSMP5 knows I'm running those since I bought them through him - but I should've mentioned it so it everybody would know.

CRSMP5

09-06-2005, 10:48 PM

i have a feeling your issue with throttle openign all the way.. if the servo arm is too short.. it will not.. drill a hole in the stock one as far out towards the brake spot as you can and see if it is better ;)

why throttle mod.. on your ss.. do me a favor.. with the radio, engine not running, turn on electronics.. then give it WOT.. then grab the linkage and see how much more throttle it will get.. move it manually.. you will find the c spring prevents it.. ;)

Duster_360

09-07-2005, 10:29 PM

See what you mean, my alum arm is shorter than the stock plastic arm and part of not getting carb fully open is tied up with the length diff. I try to use metal servo horns, had a one break that just about destroyed a Tmaxx. I'll look at cutting a double arm down to use.

Do I understand - c spring is the spring on the outside of the throttle rod away from engine?

I set it up so I can manually move the linkage WOT by pushing the end of the rod holding the end retainer (pc of alum with the set screw). It will go WOT that way.

But just using the radio, trying WOT that way, it leaves me about 1/4" of making it all the way. When I move the throttle rod manually, there's just about complete spring stack (coils close to touching). Rod needs to be longer so spring has more room to compress?

CRSMP5

09-08-2005, 01:55 AM

the c clip is for the guy with the ss wondering about the throttle linkage mod.. the stock one has a c clips/spring in the throttle/brake set up..

Dnmeistr

09-08-2005, 02:47 PM

I have the SS and run stock throttle/brake linkages with the c clip. The only mod I did was rotate the throttle linkage 180 deg so it sits outside the handle, makes taking the radio box cover off easier as well as putting it back on. And I have no prolems achieving full throttle, so I saw no need on doing the Ofna mod.

CRSMP5

09-08-2005, 05:51 PM

do the test i state above.. ive built 3 of the ss 4.6 kits and each was still crappy on WOT

Duster_360

09-09-2005, 10:18 PM

I know you're partial to White lightning to lube drive cups, but when I was shopping for some rollerblade brg grease, I found something called Pedro's Ice Wax, its like a much thicker ver of WL? Going to be trying it out, maybe too thick will attract dirt, but will find out. Definitely great for blsde brgs!

ron1431

09-13-2005, 08:59 PM

does your k 4.6 do this id so i need one now:D look at these cool vid. big wheelies (http://www.hpieurope.com/show_video.php?lang=en&videoID=92)

46u

09-13-2005, 09:24 PM

What I use to lube my diff cups is Dupont Teflon Multi-use Lubricant. It goes on very thin and penetrates real well then it dries and does not attract dirt like grease. Works real well.

rawdy rider

09-14-2005, 06:07 AM

Whats the werd on the 4.6??Getting one. ;)

CRSMP5

09-14-2005, 12:35 PM

the ss 4.6 is the best savage set up out of the box that hpi sells..

a set of LCG tvps, 4 soft hpi shock springs, better wheels (stock is weak), and better foams (too soft) and dont forget your good electronics and its race ready..

abels621

09-14-2005, 07:53 PM

what are some brands who make non extended lcg tvps that i can order online?

CRSMP5

09-14-2005, 09:01 PM

me, vertigo.. everyone else extends them way much.. both mine and vertigo's extend them a titch, uses a rear center driveshaft up front... back is streched like 1.5mm on my design.. so overall total is like 8mm strech on mine which is almost a 1/4" .315"

ask duster about mine.. he has a set of v3 ones, we are up to v5 the best versiont here is.. well this time is v6 has still a few revisions over v5, 4 additional holes for added skid plate ideas..

spam spam click me for details on mine spam spam (http://www.savageracer.com/forum/showthread.php?t=4025)

SUPERSONIC_ST

09-15-2005, 01:36 PM

I been looking on towerhobbies to see if i want to get an ss 4.6. I think i will but i wanna know if anyone has the "Hot Bodies Truckzilla Big Twin .26 Savage" kit on theirs. If I get this monster, i'll get this kit with it. I you have the kit, can you tell me how much it improves the truck. Go to http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHKC6&P=7 to look at the upgrade, i have the money but not the willingness to buy it without opinions. Thanks dudes.

Sonic

Duster_360

09-15-2005, 07:05 PM

From what I've read you're better off buying something else. Here's an old thread about it -

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=193623&highlight=truckzilla

Try a search in monster trucks on truckzilla - it returned over 3 dozen hits.

CRSMP5

09-15-2005, 09:53 PM

ive built one of the twinzillas.. still sitting in the LHS i built it for.. its forsale BTW.. before you buy a ss4.6 for this.. IMO a better way of doing it..

buy a complete front/rear end off ebay with suspention.. lots of people part NIB savages and there are complete set ups..

a radio box, the new hpi servo saver set up, and a tranny.. either the 2 speed or the 3 speed.. will cost you less then buying a savage and the conversion..

you want a big body for it.. something for the LST like a proline f350 double cab fits well
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/f350s008.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/f350s006.jpg

this one fits the best!! but no photos installed.. :(
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/twinzilla/tzill4.jpg

SUPERSONIC_ST

09-16-2005, 08:32 AM

Thanks dude. I think I might just buy the whole thing, i want the real mcoys. It looks so wicked. How much ground clearance does it have with larger wheels on it? So the body still looks fine with the chassis being 2 inches longer?

CRSMP5

09-16-2005, 11:47 AM

no the stock body will not work.. way too small..

with the last photo.. if you use stock hpi wheels/tires it looks authinic raised 4x4 you would see travel in cali.. with the fireballs it looks goofy IMO.

ride height is same as stock.. none of that changes.. with the bigger tires/wheels 1st pic is on stacked 2x4s so a titch less then 4"

next.. if you really want a bling bling one.. the 1st photo turned into 90% aluminum.. he is selling it.. i can give you a phone number for him.. im thinking he wants 1500 but he has way way more then that in it..

rawdy rider

09-20-2005, 12:14 PM

HI Guys,
Got a prob,fast reply appreciated.Would anyone know if the chasis from the Savage 25 will werk with the ss46 kit??I just recieved my kit but the blasted chasis is missing!!Picked up a chasis for the Savage 25 from a friend who had it lyin spare,need to know if itll werk.Thanks. :(

Tim'sLosi

09-20-2005, 12:33 PM

Duster_360

09-20-2005, 06:46 PM

I sure would be on the phone to HPI customer sevice asking for a chassis! Was the kit seal broken when you got it? I mail ordered mine and it'seal was broken when I received it. I sweated that something was missing until I got it all put together. Nothing was missing in mine.

When you get it maybe you can undo your deal with your friend and get your money back. They are the same chassis wise, when you check the p/n out of the 4.6SS manual on Tower it comes up as the Sav 21 chassis, so they are the same, 21, 25 and the SS.

SUPERSONIC_ST

09-21-2005, 09:21 AM

Been looking into the truckzilla conversion. Seems to be pretty rubbish. Apperently the motors bust up pretty quickly. I might just go for the savage 25. It has more hop ups for it.

CRSMP5

09-21-2005, 10:08 AM

he emailed me yesterday so he should be good to go on the chassis.. i too would call hpi and give them a piece of my mind..

IMO the ss 4.6 is better then the 25.. it is bullit proof vs all other savages made.. its engine is more then enough umphh for the fact its a stock engine..

fastharry

09-25-2005, 07:59 AM

3250 TREMOR WHEEL WHITE/SAVAGE 115X70MM/7"/2PCS
3251 TREMOR WHEEL BLACK/SAVAGE 115X70MM/7"/2PCS
3252 TREMOR WHEEL CHROME/SAVAGE 115X70MM/7"/2PCS
3255 BLAST WHEEL WHITE/SAVAGE 115X70MM/7"/2PCS
3256 BLAST WHEEL BLACK/SAVAGE 115X70MM/7"/2PCS
3257 BLAST WHEEL CHROME/SAVAGE 115X70MM/7"/2PCS
4727 MOUNTED GOLIATH TYRE/SAVAGE 178X97MM/7"/BLAST WHEEL CHROME
4728 MOUNTED GOLIATH TYRE/SAVAGE 178X97MM/7"/TREMOR W/CHROME
4729 MOUNTED GOLIATH TYRE/SAVAGE 140X70MM/7"/BLAST WHEEL CHROME
4731 MOUNTED PHALTLINE TYRE/SAVAGE 140X70MM/7"/TREMOR W/CHROME
4882 GOLIATH TYRE/SAVAGE 7"/2PCS
4886 PHALTLINE TYRE/SAVAGE 7"/2PCS
73931 LOW CG CHASSIS 2.5MM/BLACK SAVAGE/ONLY USE WITH 86357

hi guys........thought you'd be interested in what I found on the HPI europe site under new products....don't ask in what section,can't tell you.....the savage is the only HPI truck(or car) I don't own,but I still love the truck........

notice the bottom product?....

enjoy....

CRSMP5

09-25-2005, 09:38 AM

interesting.. they stole MY COLOR those ******** :D

Duster_360

09-25-2005, 11:30 AM

Are all those new wheels for the 17mm hex or standard?

Yours are still the best! Especially if HPI's are glossy black...

ron1431

09-25-2005, 11:59 AM

73931 LOW CG CHASSIS 2.5MM/BLACK SAVAGE/ONLY USE WITH 86357
nice info harry. wow cant belive you dont own a savage:p. hpi doesnt have any pics of the items

CRSMP5

09-25-2005, 06:54 PM

i wonder how they compair to my original black TVPs design.. still kinda disgusting.. but its not like twisted did nto go black after we did.. :(

abels621

09-28-2005, 08:44 PM

hey guys im probaly getting a 4.6 savage. any things i need to know when i build it? anything need replacing right a way? thanx a lot

46u

09-28-2005, 08:55 PM

hey guys im probaly getting a 4.6 savage. any things i need to know when i build it? anything need replacing right a way? thanx a lot

Yes get a set of Nova aluminum clutch shoes! I have and I know many others have had noting but problems with the stock ones slipping.

abels621

09-28-2005, 09:18 PM

which ones? i dont see any for the 4.6. only the 25. also do i need anything else besides what comes with them to put them on? oh and 1 more thing. could i do without them at first, then get them later on? sry 4 all the questions. thanx

CRSMP5

09-28-2005, 10:50 PM

replace during building.. but a set of mugen composites with .9 springs would also work..

if you do not put better clutch shoes on, it will eat spur gears as they slip so much the clutch bell gets hot and the spur melts once shut off..

better foams for the tires like trinity foams, a set of LCG tvps, and better wheels like rpm stable maxxes..

rawdy rider

09-30-2005, 03:32 AM

Thanks Duster and Tim.Called up the shop, guy had it with him.Recieved it now,but not getting the time to start assembly.Hopefully get down to it today.Will look into the low cg chasis though.Was not wanting to use the purple chasis with the silver pipe anyways.One observation Hpi shud use proper wheel nuts on their trucks instead of these piddly ones.

rawdy rider

10-03-2005, 06:12 AM

just finished assembly.front tie rods set at 44 mm,but tyre setting appears to be pretty much toe out.What gives??anyone??:(

67f100StPro

10-03-2005, 03:50 PM

Toe-out in front helps steering. You only need a little, prob 0.5-1 deg. You also need toe-in on the rear, about 1-1.5 deg. Rear toe-in helps with high speed stability and turning.

CRSMP5

10-03-2005, 09:23 PM

i try to run my toe close to 0.. a little toe in on the front with the arms level.. as the arms go up and down it will change the toe..

abels621

10-05-2005, 08:45 PM

1.if i get the mugen composite shoes for the mbx-4 or mbx-5 will they work?

2.Do i need to get the 17t hardened ofna clutch bell on towers if i get the shoes?

3.if i get the clutch shoes can i use the stock spring that comes with the 4.6ss?

4.If i get the vented cb do i need a shim kit? if so which one?

:confused: thanx a lot

CRSMP5

10-05-2005, 09:16 PM

clutch shoes (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJ80&P=7)

springs, they have a different bend to them (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNJ81&P=7)

shim kit everyone needs to own 2 of (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNT03&P=ML)

17t cb will require above shim kit (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXBL95&P=7)

the cb is optional.. but the ofna will outlast the stock one, aids in cooling, and IMo better quality.. it also comes with bearings so you will have a few spares.

abels621

10-06-2005, 07:09 AM

thanx a ton. i think ill get the 4.6 with the clutch shoes and springs for now and get the clutchbell a little later. thanx again.

rawdy rider

10-06-2005, 03:20 PM

Thanks for the info 67,dont know how i managed it but set the tie rods a bit short!Assembled #2 kit for my friend,got both trucks sitting side by side ,look super!Wish i had a digital camera.Just run two tanks of plain fuel on mine,no probs,engine runs sweet,truck handles well.Waiting to see how it compares to the Thunder Tiger MTA 4 which i also got(beats the Savage 25 for speed).Anyway looks like a good truck,anyone got one with good run time on it,and what problems faced??
Will appreciate parts list required to hopup from someone in the know.I got the clutch bit.Thanks guys.

rawdy rider

10-11-2005, 10:42 AM

Excellent!!First outing with the truck only half run in.Performed beautifully,excellent handling,goes like a bomb.In fact was keeping up with an upgraded Savage 25 running on 12.5%nitro,three speed gear box, and 4.6 just on plain fuel 80_20 mixture(castor oil) rich mixture,but when she kicks into second......!!Brakes work well too.A bit of leaning out the needle after some run in time and she started to show her teeth!!A beautiful truck,with a beautiful cooperative engine, well recommended. :)
P.S. only weak area i thought was the bumpers.Could be far better.

CRSMP5

10-11-2005, 11:05 AM

beleive it or not.. the bumpers are not bad.. im still using my originals from jan 2003 when i got mine..

doesgo

10-11-2005, 01:13 PM

The bumpers are weak? Holy cow, I'm also running my original bumpers from January 2003 and have put my Savage through a ton of abuse.

Tim'sLosi

10-11-2005, 05:09 PM

The bumpers are weak? Holy cow, I'm also running my original bumpers from January 2003 and have put my Savage through a ton of abuse.

My off-road light stickers fell off. ;)

Bunsincunsin

10-14-2005, 12:55 PM

Could someone suggest a good steering servo for my Savage? I'm willing to spend anywhere from $80-150. Thanks

doesgo

10-14-2005, 01:07 PM

Airtronics 358 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=370) or 359 (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=33_56&products_id=371). Fast and powerful!

Bunsincunsin

10-14-2005, 02:41 PM

Will Airtronics stuff work with Futaba?

Duster_360

10-14-2005, 09:38 PM

Don't think so - Futaba and Hitec both use negative shift and will work together. Airtronics and JR use positive shift and will work toegther. Other than those combos, can't mix them.

The positive / negative shift has to do with the part of the signal thats used to carry the info back and forth between tx and rx.

Hitec 5945 Hi-Torq digital servo - 180in-oz at .13sec or Futaba S9351 digital hi-torque servo - 192in-oz at 0.13sec. Either would do the job and work with your futaba electronics and be in your price range.

doesgo

10-14-2005, 10:00 PM

That's only for transmitter/receiver communication, and even then those are all-encompassing rules across product lines. The servos don't care how the Tx and Rx communicate. I'm controlling a Hitec servo with a JR transmitter and Hitec receiver in one vehicle, JR servos with a Futaba Tx/Rx in another vehicle, Airtronics servos with Futaba Tx/Rx in another vehicle, the list goes on. No problems at all.

Bunsincunsin

10-14-2005, 10:41 PM

Thanks for the help and explaining that stuff to me. :cool:

Duster_360

10-14-2005, 10:53 PM

Next time I'll read enough of the thread to understand, pay attention or maybe try both - at least I did say tx/rx.

You're totally correct other than the plug in (if there is any diff) servos will run off anybody's. I'm doing the same thing running a mix of servo brands. My bad!!

rawdy rider

10-15-2005, 07:59 AM

A good inexpensive servo is the Hi tec HS 625 MG servo.6.8 kg torque @6.0 volts.Ill check out the bumpers,maybe used wrong short screws on em.They come apart when i lift the truck with them.....and flip up body or softer body pins HPI please,get sore fingers trying to put em on. :mad:

Duster_360

10-16-2005, 08:37 PM

replace during building..

better foams for the tires like trinity foams, a set of LCG tvps, and better wheels like rpm stable maxxes..

Can you give me a p/n on those - I bought a set of trinity foam liners, but they can't be right ones, they seem too small. What I bought -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXPG80

Triniy's p/n TK1522. Thanks!

CRSMP5

10-16-2005, 09:02 PM

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVL81&P=7

Duster_360

10-16-2005, 09:40 PM

Thanks!! I'll give them a try.

Bunsincunsin

10-31-2005, 02:54 PM

I have a problem! When I start up my truck it runs fine sitting on blocks, but then when I set it down on the ground it just shuts off. Also when it idles the wheels move and it doesn't sit still. And it only idles for like five seconds.

Help, please! :(

CRSMP5

10-31-2005, 05:57 PM

sounds as if clutch spring broke..

Bunsincunsin

10-31-2005, 10:35 PM

Do you mean the ones inside the clutch bell or the one on the slipper clutch?

Tim'sLosi

10-31-2005, 10:38 PM

Do you mean the ones inside the clutch bell or the one on the slipper clutch?
He is referring to the ones in the clutch bell. If they break your clutch may not disengage causing the stalling. It definately sounds clutch related.

Bunsincunsin

10-31-2005, 10:58 PM

OK, thanks. But how do I get it to idle right? I have messed with the idle adjustment screw but it still won't sit still.

Tim'sLosi

11-01-2005, 07:33 AM

It will not idle without the clutch releasing!

rawdy rider

11-01-2005, 08:54 AM

it aint gonna idle if ure clutchs engagin man.drop the engine and have a look at the clutch assy.ull probably see a shoe hangin or something like that,u can bet!

CRSMP5

11-01-2005, 10:52 AM

well it could also be a clutch bell bearing wiped out.. but yes its associated with teh clutch in some mannyer..

Bunsincunsin

11-01-2005, 08:17 PM

Well I took a look at the clutch and every thing looked fine, but I did put new springs in so maybe that will help. Could it be that I am putting the clutch together wrong? But I'm prety sure I'm doing it right.

CRSMP5

11-01-2005, 10:32 PM

the clutch bell HAS to spin free.. if its tight at all it will be a issue..

Bunsincunsin

11-01-2005, 10:33 PM

it aint gonna idle if ure clutchs engagin man.drop the engine and have a look at the clutch assy.ull probably see a shoe hangin or something like that,u can bet!
How do I get the clutch to not engage?
Sorry for all of the lame questions but I am still learning about nitro engines. :o

CRSMP5

11-01-2005, 10:58 PM

clutch only ingauges when engine is runnign and throttle given.

Bunsincunsin

11-01-2005, 11:15 PM

Well I guess I have the clutch setup wrong. Is the nut that goes onto the flywheel supposed to be flat at the end and not slanted so that the end of the clutch spring lays over it? If that makes sense.

CRSMP5

11-02-2005, 04:54 AM

no top is curved so the spring can be slid down to the groove..

Tim'sLosi

11-02-2005, 06:38 AM

Clutch instructions...

http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/instr/871_web.pdf goto page 36.

Bunsincunsin

11-02-2005, 10:03 AM

no top is curved so the spring can be slid down to the groove..
That makes sense, Thanks.

rawdy rider

11-04-2005, 04:55 AM

i dont blame you. The illustration in the manual re.the clutch are not clear.one cant tell which way the nut is supposed to go by looking at the pic.make sure you slide the shoes on the pins the right way.i.e. looking at the assembly head on........ ;)

CRSMP5

11-04-2005, 06:59 AM

actually you can run withthe clutch soes in either direction.. BUT the clutch springs will not line up with the grove on the flywheel nut ;) in the wrong direction

rawdy rider

11-05-2005, 02:42 AM

would the shoes open if they were facing the other way round??Counter clock direction of rotation of the engine.....Hmmmmm? :confused:

Tim'sLosi

11-05-2005, 08:58 AM

would the shoes open if they were facing the other way round??Counter clock direction of rotation of the engine.....Hmmmmm? :confused:
Yes...it might take more force (rpm). It is the centrifugal force pulling the free end of the clutch shoe outwards.

CRSMP5

11-05-2005, 10:07 AM

actually it takes less force when in the other direction ;)

Tim'sLosi

11-05-2005, 04:04 PM

Now that you said it I can envision it...they are moving outward with the rotation rather than against it. IC

rawdy rider

11-07-2005, 04:19 AM

thats what ah be a thinkin.. ;) wouldnt a heli type clutch be better??

rawdy rider

11-07-2005, 04:24 AM

By the way guys my pull start gave up the ghost,into the third fourth outing.No abuse,and not used much,so its time to break out the Roto Start that i was saving for later!!Prefer pull start,battery dont run out!! :mad:

CRSMP5

11-07-2005, 11:27 AM

have you loosened the glow plug upon startign when cold till after you had over a gal of fuel thru it?? i doubt it.. else the pull start should not have broke

rawdy rider

11-08-2005, 09:15 AM

Advice needed.Can i stick the three speed g/box into the 46??Should be fun..... :confused:

CRSMP5

11-08-2005, 10:22 AM

yep the 3 speed is direct fit.. if you know what your doing.. just get the parts kit and reuse your parts..

rawdy rider

11-16-2005, 06:51 AM

re. the pull start that i thought went bust,seems the end of the pull string was just a tad long and went got stuck in the mechanism.so if any of you guys have a pull start that wont recoil,it might be the pull string gumming up the werks.......... :rolleyes:

rawdy rider

11-23-2005, 06:54 AM

Well well well.Recieved my three speeder g/box last night,installed it today and ran it just a while ago.One word,ROCKETT!!!All you guys out there,upgrade noww!

1 savage

12-03-2005, 09:28 AM

Hello, can anyone advise of the proper screw settings for the 3 speed transmission? How many turns out from closed should the adjustment screw be.

NitroStarr

12-04-2005, 08:45 AM

Tim'sLosi

12-04-2005, 09:09 AM

Savage 4.6 is not capable of running in grass per HPI !

Tim,

The first problem I would check would be the tightness of the slipper. If you slipper isn't tight enough, it will slip too much, causing friction, heat, and melting your spur. That's what I'd look into. If it *is* the clutch bell melting them, then you probably need a new clutch, not a new clutch bell. The other reason that happens a lot is running your truck in grass… if you are, then this is the root of the problem and ignore the initial advice.

HPI Support

Duster_360

12-04-2005, 06:45 PM

Can anyone tell me if the chassis is the same length and width on the Savage .25, and the new SS 4.6. I am interested in getting the RC Raven full roll cage that is designed for the Savage and put it on the new SS 4.6. I inquired with RC Raven but they are unsure if it will fit, But they will take it back if it doesn't and give a full refund. I like to run my trucks without a body and just a full roll cage. Before I buy the SS 4.6 I want to make sure a full roll cage is available or one can be made to fit. Thanks in advance for any knowlegable info on this subject.

The TVPs are the same part number, #73917, the trans plate is the same p/n, #86069, so they have to be the same size since those 2 parts set the width and the length. If the cage fits a 25, it will fit your stock 4.6.
The manuals for both are on HPI's site and you can compare the 2 page by page, but they are same size. Here's the manuals -

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

NitroStarr

12-04-2005, 07:33 PM

The TVPs are the same part number, #73917, the trans plate is the same p/n, #86069, so they have to be the same size since those 2 parts set the width and the length. If the cage fits a 25, it will fit your stock 4.6.
The manuals for both are on HPI's site and you can compare the 2 page by page, but they are same size. Here's the manuals -

http://www.hpiracing.com/index2.htm

Thanks Duster, I appreciate the reply and the info. Im going to order both the cage and the 4.6 kit, problem solved......Now onto the radio and servo questions.

Duster_360

12-04-2005, 08:44 PM

You're welcome! My 4.6SS was a lot of fun to build. I continue to screw around with it and if work will ever let me put it back together, it will be even better than it was!

You've found a valuable resource here in this thread if you'll take the time to read it. There's a few changes that makes the build outcome much better in the long run but are the kinds of things that are best done while building. Stronger, socket headed screws just being one example.

BTW, welcome aboard!

chrisoneal

12-11-2005, 07:39 PM

when i rebuilt my diffs i pushed all the gear close to gether and putting them in the housing. But when i see other people there all apart does this make a diffrerence or do they just move together when u run it.

1 savage

12-12-2005, 05:05 PM

Hey guys, what clutch bell/ spur gear do I need to run to get my Savage 4.6 up to 44mph?

Duster_360

12-14-2005, 08:21 PM

Hello, can anyone advise of the proper screw settings for the 3 speed transmission? How many turns out from closed should the adjustment screw be.

For some reason I can't get this pdf to open, but here's the page on HPI that has the pdf - this has the factory setting explained in detail.

From over on SC, they advise "1st to 2nd gear set at 2.25 turns from flush
2nd to 3rd set at 5.25 from flush with this setting it was just about right
just going to pull it down againg and fine tune 1st to 2nd probably 90 deg
was shifting a little late wich is a lot better than not at all when first installed
i am also running a sts 28 wich makes a differance any way thanks to all who have contributed to my concerns on this 3 speed". Thanks to zerksies, from SC.

I have one, but haven't installed yet (no time, work).

Hey guys, what clutch bell/ spur gear do I need to run to get my Savage 4.6 up to 44mph?

Think that's what they quoted for stock 4.6SS 17/47 gearing.

1 savage

12-14-2005, 09:53 PM

Thanks for the assistance Duster 360.

CRSMP5

12-19-2005, 12:03 PM

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/stadium/ukbeetle/collection/2.jpg

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/stadium/ukbeetle/collection/5.jpg

im still waiting for my new pipe for it.. i think it will be very sweet when it arrives..

ron1431

12-27-2005, 08:31 PM

http://www.hpiracing.co.jp/parts/w_73831_01.jpg
saw it on hpi japan site

Bunsincunsin

12-27-2005, 09:30 PM

Sweet, but they are way late on all of this :rolleyes: .

Tim'sLosi

12-28-2005, 07:36 AM

CRSMP5...Who makes those VW bodies? They fit really well!

CRSMP5

12-28-2005, 09:23 AM

nitro-killer on ebay, he is out of the UK, from what ive heard last, they are no longer made as his mfg is trying to kill him on cost..

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/stadium/ukbeetle/beetle_1/6.jpg
is the 1st one i painted

one above is the 2nd one i painted..

and a unique one.. LOL..
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/stadium/ukbeetle/cf_beetle/cf_beetle%20001.jpg
is black lexan, a weve laid into it with a gloss coat on the outside.. walla carbon fiber effect.. then it was pulled into shape on the mold..

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/stadium/ukbeetle/collection/4.jpg
which is my show body as i have not made body mount holes in it.. add chrome for windows and pasties and you get a sweet looking effect..

Tim'sLosi

01-05-2006, 04:02 PM

I contacted N-K, he took my email and is gonna contact me when he gets more in. I am guessing these are by far nicer than the Parma one I have seen. It looks that way in the pics.
Thanks for the contact!

CRSMP5

01-05-2006, 05:23 PM

its huge vs the parma one.. its also almost 1/8" thick too.. LOL..

CRSMP5

01-06-2006, 10:33 AM

my new pipe showed up today.. :D

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/01_06/tsais_c5h/1.jpg
http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Hotbodies/01_06/tsais_c5h/2.jpg

its a TSAIS C5H :D perfect with that body.. ill post the review at some point today..

RenHoek

01-06-2006, 02:10 PM

That rear dual exhaust MAKES that a bug! Perfect!
I can alomst hear the chuff-chuff-chuff.... :D

-RenHoek

CRSMP5

01-06-2006, 11:42 PM

i know.. it was the finishing touch.. :D sounds great, runs nice.. once i get my v2 transeiver for my new nomadio.. ill see what speed gains it got from the pipe too.. :)

Blakor

01-07-2006, 12:07 AM

I just bought a Savage 4.6 a few weeks ago and have been slowly putting it together. This is my first nitro vehicle, and only second vehicle I've built (other being a Tamiya TA04). I've got it all put together, but I'm not sure the transmission is right. It was prebuilt from the factory, but I noticed if I spun the input shaft by hand, sometimes the output shafts wouldn't spin. So I took it apart and put it back together again, but found the behavior was the same. Should this be the case? I didn't try to adjust the transmission/adjustment screw, though I did find where it is.

Also, should I be able to turn the spur gear while the motor is off? Every time I try to spin it by hand, it pulls on the engine's starter cable a little.

I'm afraid to gas it up for the first time without knowing if the tranny's gonna blow :D

CRSMP5

01-08-2006, 12:22 AM

you have somethign built worng on your clutch.. wurnign the spur should move not actual part of the engine, just the clutch bell..

Bunsincunsin

01-08-2006, 08:55 AM

I think you might have the same problem I had with my clutch. I had put the springs on wrong because the pictures on the manual do jack for actually showing you what you are supposed to do. Check to see if you have bent the end of the scizor spring over the clutch nut, if not thats what you need to do. It might take you a while to get all three shoes on like that, it took me a while, but now my clutch is engaging the way it should and the truck is running great.

CRSMP5

01-08-2006, 10:18 AM

man... my typing sux there.. LOL..

"you have something built wrong on your clutch, turning the spur should move no actual part of the engine, just the clutch bell..."

Blakor

01-21-2006, 08:56 PM

Thanks, I found that I had just screwed the clutch bell on too tight. Once I loosened it, I was able to spin the spur and clutch bell freely.

I'm having trouble starting the engine though. I tried two different glow plugs, but it just doesn't seem to want to start. When I pull the starter cable, sometimes a little gas sprays out, and I'm not sure where it's coming from. Is it possible something in the engine wasn't screwed down right from the factory?

Tim'sLosi

01-21-2006, 09:12 PM

Duster_360

01-22-2006, 02:07 PM

Check the high speed needle assembly - the fuel line goes in near the bottom. On mine that was barely finger tight. The first time I tried to start mine - when I primed it, it went everywhere cause the HSN assembly wasn't tight.

Make sure there is a gasket on the glow plug and the plug is snugged down and tight - be areful, if you try to get it too tight, you can strip it - its threaded into alum and it will strip. Unless you taken the motor apart, the head shouldn't be loose.

Ridin High

01-30-2006, 05:39 PM

Maybe you guys can help me out. I got a 4.6 a few months ago just to do some playing around. Ever since new the thing has never shifted. I have done all kinds if tinkering around and nothing. I down pretty much to tearing it all apart and building it myself. Anyone have any thoughts. And one more thing, what % of fuel do you all run. I started out with 30 cause I had some leftover from my previous buggy. My local hobby shop didn't have anything over 20 so I'm using that now. I'm thinking that was a mistake, now I have squat for power. :(

Bunsincunsin

01-30-2006, 06:29 PM

You have to mess with the transmission to get it to shift properly. On the side of the transmission there is a rubber cover that goes over the two holes, you have to take that off, and inside there is a hex screw. You turn that screw left or right for later or an earlier shift. It has instructions for it in the back of the manual.

For % I am using 20% Traxxas Top Fuel and my engine is running great, it is a beast.

Bunsincunsin

02-10-2006, 01:15 PM

So, Does any one know if the new 4.6HO engine heat sink head will fit the original 4.6? I guessing they will because they haven't really changed anything to effect that part of the engine... I am getting kinda tired of purple......

Tim'sLosi

02-10-2006, 01:21 PM

Bunsincunsin

02-10-2006, 01:36 PM

Yes, I will enjoy it..... But it's not avalible on Tower yet. :mad:

Thanks

Bunsincunsin

02-19-2006, 12:06 PM

CRSMP5

02-20-2006, 12:43 PM

hey anyone else besides me runnign the tsais ch5 pipe here? pics one page back, im looking for some opinions/engines/fuel used type of data.. a savvy owner is having issues and im looking for what others are using as a referance..

the question is pretty much pipe heat.. but long ago i found a engine like a picco26 runs way hot on exhaust gas temps vs anything ive used the past 2 seasons.. so this is why im looking for different engines and their opinions..

nutwgnfromhell

03-28-2006, 07:47 PM

I just bought one of these beasts. What are some good mods? I`m lookin to hit 60 mph.

Monsterbrad

03-28-2006, 08:02 PM

6o mph
Get the 3 speed and the Novarossi 528X you may get close.
I would get the Nova race products head for your engine!
Helps crazy amounts.
www.novarcproducts.com
they have the head

nutwgnfromhell

03-28-2006, 11:05 PM

whats a good pipe for it?

crazy4rc

03-31-2006, 04:27 PM

Does anyone have the HPI 17mm Hex Hub Conversion Set w/Univ. Joint? How are they? Would they be able to hold up to bashing? Here they are.... http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0095P?FVSEARCH=87230&FVPROFIL=++

Also has anyone tried the Agressors tires from HPI?

The 17mm nuts keep coming loose on me :mad: I havn't tried thread lock on it yet. I also took the agressor tires from my hellfire and put them on, they seem great for bashing, no balloning! I also put the 12mm LCG kit on mine. I like it. I'll let you know as of May 7th when my local track opens.

Bunsincunsin

04-26-2006, 09:48 PM

The 17mm nuts keep coming loose on me :mad: I havn't tried thread lock on it yet. I also took the agressor tires from my hellfire and put them on, they seem great for bashing, no balloning! I also put the 12mm LCG kit on mine. I like it. I'll let you know as of May 7th when my local track opens.
Thanks!

Do you use the 17mm for bashing? And they hold up good besides coming loose?

DarkSavage

04-26-2006, 11:40 PM

Yeah i was wondering if you loctite the threads on the wheel nuts, since i have the 23mm. im afraid they are going to come loose since tho nylon to keep the tire on.

2mcgrath

04-27-2006, 11:02 AM

i was wondering do you guys have any ideas on lowering the truck?i would like to set mine up as a back up racer.and it would have to be lowered.ive heard you can change the shocks out to lower it.but how does that affect your wheel travel off jumps?

wheeleze

04-27-2006, 10:07 PM

Yeah i was wondering if you loctite the threads on the wheel nuts, since i have the 23mm. im afraid they are going to come loose since tho nylon to keep the tire on.

loctite EVERY metal on metal screw AND allow it to dry b4 running. The nylon locknuts aren't strong enough for the torque and will come off. I did appreciate the hub caps that come with the 23mm rims since I did keep my nuts when I lost my tire for not using enough. What a terrible thought, losing my nuts...

DarkSavage

04-30-2006, 01:15 PM

Alright thanks

DarkSavage

04-30-2006, 01:17 PM

Yeah but you loctite the threads on the 23mms, since u have the cheyyanes they hold the nuts, i have the dish.

wheeleze

05-01-2006, 10:54 PM

(clip) since u have the cheyyanes they hold the nuts, i have the dish.

Actually, I have the commando's and love them. Granted, they are heavier, but i can replace a tire OR a rim without trying to boil off the CA.

HINT: proline 23mm Bead-loc rings can be tightened almost all the way against the rim if you're patient and keep circling the rim turning one screw a couple turns at a time.

OzNerd

05-17-2006, 07:52 AM

Hello, I am still trying to get my savage set up properly - I have wrecked two spur gears so far. Does the aluminium gear fix this problem completely (or just make it more expensive)?

Does any one have a good, easy way to give these things a wheel alignment?

I will try to post a picture - wish me luck!

http://img129.imageshack.us/img129/8338/savage46ss3be.jpg

RenHoek

05-17-2006, 09:25 AM

OzNerd-
Last year when I got my 4.6, I went through about 6 spur gears by different variations of melting the teeth off of em. I KNOW I had the mesh set correctly - this was a problem of melting the gear, not stripping it out.

Without a track nearby, I was mostly driving it in 3-5" grass, which is hard on the drivetrain. With the original clutch shoes, the clutchbell would get hot enough to just melt through the spur teeth (even if it was just sitting there after a long run). I switched over to the Nova aluminum clutchshoes and - BAM - immediately stopped melting spur teeth. Those shoes make all the difference in the world with the 4.6. I still have a couple spare spurs sitting around that I haven't needed since then.

Or, if you're "wrecking the spurs" in the center hub (not the teeth) (I can't tell from your post), make sure you have the slipper nut cranked all the way down tight, then back about 1/8 turn. Otherwise, it'll slip too much and melt the bearing out of the hub.

Have fun with the new toy-
RenHoek

doesgo

05-17-2006, 09:38 AM

If your slipper is too loose it can cause spur gears to melt also, although that's rare on a Savage.

You can find the adjustable 3-piece Nova aluminum shoes here (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_61&products_id=633) for $20.

You should be able to make things work without a steel spur, but if you decide to step up, the Robinson Racing Products (http://www.smfstore.com/product_info.php?cPath=31_68&products_id=281) hardened steel setup is very popular and effective.

OzNerd

05-18-2006, 07:12 AM

Thanks for the replies. The first spur gear died on the road - teeth stripped of. I am fairly sure that the second one was my fault - slipper set too loose plus running it through some grass (it only lasted 10 minutes).

Over here, I am loking at $90 for an aluminium spur gear plus HPI recommend a new clutch bell as well ($50). The plastic spur gears are on $15 so I will destroy two more (or, hopefully not) before I upgrade.

:)

doesgo

05-18-2006, 07:31 AM

Holy cow, where's "here"? $15 for a plastic spur is brutal!

Fantom 15 gt

05-18-2006, 08:54 AM

I think that will be in aussie dollers!

I just got a Savage btw and just got a new O.S for it!

doesgo

05-18-2006, 10:30 AM

Currently $1.00US = $1.31AU, so $15AU for a spur is $11.45US. Ouch! A Savage spur is $2.99 here (http://www.smfstore.com/index.php?cPath=31_129), you could buy a few and have them shipped down under for far less than you'd pay in Australia.

Fantom 15 gt

05-18-2006, 05:58 PM

Yea thats a good idea!

DarkSavage

06-03-2006, 01:16 PM

oh man whats going on with this thread noones talking at all

stpede

08-28-2006, 08:00 PM

:D savage is so tuff that no body breaks it, so no body needs any help with it;)

Bunsincunsin

08-28-2006, 09:28 PM

Everyone is over at Savage Racer and Savage Central I guess...

doesgo

08-28-2006, 09:31 PM

And RCUniverse.

Tim'sLosi

09-01-2006, 07:35 PM

http://www.truggyracers.com/CRSMP5/Bodies/Hotbodies/stadium/ukbeetle/collection/5.jpg
im still waiting for my new pipe for it.. i think it will be very sweet when it

arrives..

CRSMP5..Just got two of these bods from Nigel! They are absolutely amazing. Can't get over how thick they are! I am definately having them pro painted...not risking doing a limited edition body on my own.

Thanks for the contact!

Tim

crazy4rc

09-02-2006, 08:00 AM

CRSMP5..Just got two of these bods from Nigel! They are absolutely amazing. Can't get over how thick they are! I am definately having them pro painted...not risking doing a limited edition body on my own.

Thanks for the contact!

Tim

Dude! Where did you get that body? Thats awesome! :cool:

If you don't want to give it to everybody please PM me! :D

NitroTXT1

09-08-2006, 05:52 AM

RCmad93

09-23-2006, 01:29 PM

guys, i gonna start a thread 2 post pics of all savvys.
That if i can, the new thread tool has been saying i do not have permission recently...

Ryan

RCmad93

09-23-2006, 01:29 PM

in the posting rules it says i may not post new threads???
Why not???

doesgo

09-23-2006, 02:14 PM

You'll have to go to the Monster Trucks thread to do it, only admins can post new threads in the Vehicles section.

46u

09-23-2006, 06:15 PM

well guys i have a couple questions:
alright so i got a steal on my savvy not too long ago but have already started to crazy mod it:

so far:
flm chassis
rb.28 5 port version,
jr 650servo 142oz,hitec 645brake\throttle,
dirtbonz mounted on ss rims,
hybrid bulks,
4 bevel diffs
soon to have flm motor plate,
heatsink motor mount,

should i opt for a different slipper setup also what would be good gearing and what grease do you guys recommend

The old style slipper is better then the X and run it with the nut tightened all the way up till the spring is coil bound. There are to many variables for me to tell you a gearing to run like where you are going to run, are you only going to bash, what engine are your running and so on. As far as grease what do you want to grease as the only grease I run is on mine is on the ring and pinion.

supraTT

09-29-2006, 12:33 AM

Tim'sLosi

09-29-2006, 10:57 PM

Dude! Where did you get that body? Thats awesome! :cool:

If you don't want to give it to everybody please PM me! :D

http://cgi.ebay.com/t-maxx-revo-lst-savage-beetle-shell-LIMITED-QUANTITY_W0QQitemZ120035962928QQihZ002QQcategoryZ1 9168QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem?hash=ite m120035962928

Better late than never?

Zoo Tv

09-30-2006, 04:55 PM

I blew the dust off this thing and put a few new parts on it. As you can see i have no engine in it - My STS .30 should be in by tomorrow or Monday. I've beefed up the driveline with universals and building a good 4 spider. I have an aluminum clutch on the way too. With these big tires and this huge engine what other itmes should I look at for durability? and what what be a good gearing set-up for wheelie power and great top speed? Any info would be great as I have been outta the game for awhile.

Jordan

Are they MGT wheels?

Not sure what truck you have? X?

Either way - suggest the 3 speed as it gives a lower first ratio (if you want wheelie's) and higher 3rd for top end.

If not an X, get the X gearbox case whilst your at it - makes adjustments easier than pulling the truck apart to get the 'box out.

HPI wheelie bar good.
Steering servo
Steering bearing upgrade
Dual brake discs
Throttle mod
New era fuel tank kit (solves half tank lean - smaller tank though @ 125cc)
X radio box easier to work with and has charge jack built in
Hump pack
Reverse is cool
X roll over hoop justn't bend like the stocker

DSWEL

11-14-2006, 11:04 AM

I am about to purchase a Savage X SS 4.6 and since I will be building it I thought that I could go ahead and put in the 3-speed transmission that HPI offers for the Savage X. I wanted to make sure that this transmission is compatible with the Savage X SS. It is, right? Can someone confirm this?

doesgo

11-14-2006, 11:35 AM

Yes, the 2-speed and 3-speed transmissions are interchangeable among the old-style Savages as well as the Savage X and X SS.

TWINKYFINGERS

11-15-2006, 05:26 PM

I haven't built a kit in awhile and I need a basher so I can save my inferno-st for the track. I think this is the one. Plus it sounds like the upgrades are endless.

Bunsincunsin

11-18-2006, 02:13 PM

I haven't built a kit in awhile and I need a basher so I can save my inferno-st for the track. I think this is the one. Plus it sounds like the upgrades are endless.
You can pretty much make any Savage an indestructable machine. When are you getting it?

tl_ke_racer

12-14-2006, 09:06 PM

Hi, Im going to be ordering a monster truck(nitro) tomorrow or on saturday. The savage seems to be the one im considering most, but Im also conisidering the tmaxx, as well as the team assocated monster truck, which one do you guys think is the over best truck, and which can take the most abuse?

Tim'sLosi

12-14-2006, 09:13 PM

The Savage or a Revo or a MGT...definately not a Tmaxx

tl_ke_racer

12-14-2006, 09:17 PM

hmm really, thought tmaxxs wer good, but then again i have no mt's just my hpi mt2 lol, my brother already has a revo 3.3 guess I gotta go with a savage I dont wanna have the same truck, how do the revo 3.3 and the New savage rtr compare forgot what its called the savage x or somthin, well whatever their most current rtr is? any info would be apreciated.

Tim'sLosi

12-14-2006, 09:20 PM

I have both...would consider the Savage more of a basher, Revo is more nimble. 3.3 has had some probs with the conrod, not sure if it has been addressed.

tl_ke_racer

12-14-2006, 09:22 PM

one more question I wanna get this reciever pack http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFJT1&P=M could anyone help me with a charger for it, I would prefer it if I didnt have to modify it by putting my won tips on. thanks.

tl_ke_racer

12-14-2006, 09:32 PM

My last question is, is their a lot of aftermarket and third party parts for the Savage, I already know that both of traxxas' trucks have plenty of aftermarket parts and whatnot what about the savage?

Tim'sLosi

12-14-2006, 09:35 PM

OMG yes! LCG TVPs, New Era LST shock conversion and RPM arms would be high on my list.

tl_ke_racer

12-14-2006, 09:40 PM

wheeleze

12-15-2006, 08:32 PM

thanks, looks like im leaning much more towards a savage, I was a lil on the fence because the tmaxx has so much stuff for it, the savage seems to be getting pretty good support thou, I like the design for the savage alot too.

You'll like whatever you decide to go with! The Savage is a great truck and the new X fixes a lot of the problems in the original, like aluminum diff's, steering servo saver, tranny and diff access, ... If you decide to go with another truck, I'd recommend the Revo over the Tmaxx! Both the Savage & Revo have a plethora of aftermarket parts available.

nitro_newbie

01-09-2007, 12:54 PM

can some one give me the pro's AND CONS for the savage x 4.6 ss? i want to know because this is one of my options: savage x ss, MGT, REVO. i want a kit fore my 3rd truck so what do you guys think?

doesgo

01-09-2007, 01:06 PM

Savage is tougest, but handles the worst, so if you're going to race it, you'd be better off with a Revo or MGT. If you're a basher, though, the Savage gets the edge.

They're all pretty quick and tough, I don't believe any one of them is hands-down fastest. The Savage and Revo seem to have a lot more aftermarket support, but I doubt you'd have trouble hopping up the MGT if you'd like to do so.

But if you want a kit, the Savage X SS is the only option. The others are RTR-only.

c2s

01-09-2007, 04:53 PM

What is the verdict on the reverse kit for bashing? Is it better with the mixer and a 2 channel or a 3 channel?

Can it be used if the truck is upgraded with the 3 speed?

doesgo

01-09-2007, 05:26 PM

Yes, it'll work with a 3-speed (I've got that setup myself right now). As for the mixer....if you have a three-channel system now, use it, since the mixer-style is more expensive. Non-mixed gives you more control, but either one will work fine.

nitro_newbie

01-09-2007, 07:18 PM

cool thanx alot and is the reverse like the tmaxx?or is it better? thanx and i have made my decision and i will get the savy x ss thanx alot
nitro_newbie

doesgo

01-09-2007, 07:25 PM

It doesn't lurch, if that's what you're asking. I have very little T-Maxx experience though, so I don't really know how to answer that. With the regular reverse on a Savage with a three-channel system, you stop the truck, flip the switch, and hit the gas. Away you go.....backwards.

nitro_newbie

01-09-2007, 08:50 PM

kool then all i need to do is get rid of my smaxx!!

doesgo

01-09-2007, 09:30 PM

Then stop wasting time in this board and get that S-Maxx up for sale! ;)

nitro_newbie

01-09-2007, 09:53 PM

well first i wanna clean her up and figure out what a reasonable amount for her is i paid 320 and it has had about a gallon and a half run thru it and i dont want to practically give it away! dont you guys at SMF have an smaax? do you guys still have it?? i know of topic. hahahaha what would you think is a good price for it?

SVTcobra04

01-22-2007, 03:02 PM

Really thinking about buying a savage X SS kit with all the trimmings here pretty soon.

doesgo

01-22-2007, 10:28 PM

Sorry for the delayed reply, nitro newbie. No, we don't have an S-Maxx. One of our group has a T-Maxx he bought back in 2002, but that's as close as we've come to an S-Maxx. No idea on price though, I suggest you do some checking on the For Sale forums and eBay.

I don't think you'll be disapppointed with an X SS, SVT. Great power, tough truck, factory hop-ups, and you get to build it yourself!

nutwgnfromhell

01-28-2007, 12:22 PM

Hey all I just broke mine in yesterday but didnt get to drive it afterwards cuz the slipper came loose and we were freezing out butts of for 2 hours. But what i could see during break this thing is all kinds of fast. It was doing 25 mph during break in.

nitro_newbie

01-28-2007, 08:35 PM

hmm i need some help with this. i was going to buy a savage x ss but now i heard of that motor getting extremly hot when used in the sand. some say it is because it is an 8-port and it revs higher?is that what it is? so i wanted toknow if the .25 in the savage x RTR is 4 or 5-port? i want to be able ti run in sand relialby because i go to the dunes often. if that is the case i think ill still get the savage x ss but i will sell the motor the rtr is a possibility but im afraid of getting the box that doesnt come with the update parts in there (aluminum diff cups) well thanx alot.
nitro_newbie

TT-01 Mamba

06-23-2007, 05:19 PM

Hi there,
I'm thinking of getting a savage, building it, selling all of the engine parts, and buy a Kershaw designs conversion kit with the money i get. Is this a good idea?

Also what breaks/wears in a savage?

nitro_newbie

06-24-2007, 11:16 PM

yeah its a good idea if you wont go back to nitro but the bl conversion doesnt take any parts out so you can have both as i have; bl when im around lots of people and nitro for tearing it up in the middle of no where. what usually breeaks are the hub carriers and the hub ears. and the spurs do sometimes go up in pieces for odd reasons but there good. i bash really hard like i mean go alll out the it gets out of shape and takes lots of trash cans with it!!!! but i dought the savage will break anything for now. its really tuff no matter which version you get. but what savage do you wanna get? there is a x ss version with no motor for i think 300-340 bux on towerhobbies. i think i might get that next though; cant have to many savys.