New HPI Savage SS 4.6 Kit with Nitro Star K4.6 Engine!

[StevePond]

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/p871Box.jpg

New from HPI Racing is a high performance update to unassembled Savage SS monster truck, the Savage SS 4.6! There were subtle signs of the new truck when we saw press release photos of the dual disc break kit, new steering bellcrank/servo saver, and the big air cleaner. A sharp eye would have caught the new engine and other visual clues of this new SS 4.6 truck. Now the entire rig is here. Check out the new features:

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/p15201.jpg


The heart of the Savage SS 4.6 is a completely new 4.6cc (.28 cubic inch) engine that pumps out 2.9 horsepower for a top speed of 44 mph and enough power to do wheelies on command! The powerful K4.6 engine has an anodized billet aluminum head to keep it cool even during extreme off-road driving, true ABC construction using a long-life chromed sleeve, an all-new 8.5mm composite carburetor for high performance and improved high temperature tuning, and a pullstarter for easy starting. The addition of our dual chamber polished aluminum tuned pipe provides a wide powerband and higher top speed, optimized with revised 47/17 gearing. And, a new dual stage air filter with increased filtering capacity is included to help protect and extend the life of the K4.6 powerplant.

To handle the extreme power we’ve added heavy duty parts as standard equipment. Front and rear “4 gear” differentials with updated gears are included for added durability. The entire drivetrain is now equipped with heavy duty diff shafts and cup joints for strength and extended service intervals. High grip Dirt Bonz tires put the power to the ground, and they’re nearly 40% lighter than our standard Savage tires for quicker acceleration. To beef up the braking our dual disc brake kit is standard, featuring two vented stainless steel disc brakes and a machined steel brake hub. Even the steering has been upgraded to an accurate cam-type servo saver, delivering quick steering response and added servo protection.

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/p871Chassis.jpg

Since the Savage SS 4.6 is an evolution of the original Savage SS, it includes the features that made the SS so popular. It’s in kit form, not preassembled, so experienced R/C modelers can have the pleasure and satisfaction of building it themselves. Kits also allows owners to build the kit to their exact specifications and customize the truck by adding any option parts such as our Reverse Module, anodized TVP and roll bar sets and Roto Start System during assembly. Since many drivers already have advanced radio systems that are perfect for the Savage SS 4.6, we don't include a radio, which helps lower the price so that we can add high performance hop-up parts and still keep the cost of the truck low. Simply put, kits are fun, convenient and price-conscious!

And, the Savage is one of the toughest R/C monster trucks ever! From the heavy duty TVP chassis design to the massive suspension arms, the Savage SS 4.6 is designed to be driven hard and survive the challenge. And all Savage trucks are supported with a huge assortment of available options parts from HPI and other aftermarket companies, so owners can customize their Savage exactly how they want it. Step up the speed, power and durability of a Savage SS 4.6!

http://www.rccaraction.com/pics/hpi/p871_001.jpg

Savage SS 4.6 features:

Nitro Star K4.6 Engine
High torque, 2.9 horsepower engine that is reliable, easy to maintain and easy to tune. Billet aluminum head provides high efficiency cooling, composite carburetor for consistent performance, pull starter equipped for easy starting.

High Performance Polished Tuned Pipe
Dual chamber design for higher top speed and wide power band.

Dirt Bonz Tires
40% lighter than the stock tires for more speed, soft and sticky S-compound rubber for high traction on dirt surfaces.

Dual Disc Brake
Stainless steel, drilled disc brakes provide serious stopping power, enough to do "brakies" on command.

Heavy Duty Diff Shafts and Cup Joints
Hardened for extra strength and to lengthen the time between re-builds.

Adjustable Upper Arms
Turnbuckles allow easy adjustability of the suspension geometry for improved handling and performance.

8 Spoke Wheel Satin Chrome
Realistic styling with a finish that looks like real aluminum, lightweight nylon construction for durability.

4-Gear Differentials
For increased drivetrain durability as well as extended time between maintenance.

Cam Type Servo Saver
Adjustable design allows precise tuning for optimal steering response and extra servo gear protection.

Heavy Duty 3 Shoe Clutch System
The 3 shoe clutch system paired with the massively “torquey” K4.6 engine gives you the power to do wheelies on command!

Optimized Gearing Ratios
With the 47Tooth Spur Gear and 17Tooth Clutch Bell, the Savage is geared for monster torque and wheelies on command!

Heavy Duty Dogbones
A powerful engine requires a heavy duty drivetrain for durability. We’ve got you covered with heavy duty dogbones, diff shafts and cup joints.

Front and Rear Skidplate Bumpers
Realistic skidplate bumpers made of high impact nylon look great and minimize crash damage.

2 Speed!
Adjustable 2 Speed Transmission with heavy duty metal internal gears for durability, bottom end punch and high top speed. Adjustable slipper clutch for drivetrain protection.

Nitro Star K4.6 engine features:

ABC Construction
The K4.6 engine features true ABC (Aluminum, Brass, & Chrome) construction — the ultimate in strength, durability, and high performance. The 8 port sleeve is made from durable chrome plated brass for strength and durability, and the lightened piston is made of lightweight aluminum for optimal performance. The knife-edged aluminum connecting rod is streamlined for performance and includes bushings on each end for added durability and strength.

8 Port Chrome Plated Brass Sleeve
Designed to operate at very high rpm's and crank out serious horse power!

Flushed Screw Settings for Fuel Mixture
The stock carburetor settings are made flush for convenient “back to factory settings.” This avoids unnecessary damage to the needle that other traditional carburetor designs can cause.

Hand Adjustable High Speed Needle
Conveniently tune your engine’s high speed needle by hand - no tools necessary! Tuning your engine just got easier.

Machined Head
Billet aluminum heat sink for better cooling and durability. Machined cut-outs for convenient access to mounting screws for easy disassembly.

Huge, 8.5mm Composite Carburetor
The composite material dissipates heat more efficiently than cast aluminum making your engine idle smoother and run more consistently throughout the whole rpm range.

Durable Finned Aluminum Crankcase
Cast aluminum crankcase is designed for maximum durability and heat dissipation with numerous heat sink fins.

Innovative Dual Stage Air Filter Design
The “High Flow” Dual Stage Air Filter dramatically reduces intake restriction as it smoothes and straightens air flow. More air means more usable power and acceleration throughout the engine’s rpm range. The innovative design also offers unprecedented protection from dirt and dust.

Standard Savage features:

Purple anodized, billet aluminum heatsink engine head
Adjustable upper arms with thick steel turnbuckles
Stiff shock springs
Pre-trimmed unpainted Nitro GT-1 truck body with pre-cut decals
Giant 1/8th scale (16.8" x 21")
44+ miles an hour!
Full-time shaft driven four wheel drive
Complete set of rubber sealed ball bearings
High performance aluminum dual chamber tuned pipe
Aluminum high flow tube rear exhaust header
Cast aluminum heavy-duty engine mount
Heavy-duty drivetrain and suspension optimized for big-block engines
Hardened metal differential gears
Heavy-duty chromed steel dogbones
Adjustable 2 speed transmission with heavy-duty metal internal gears
Adjustable slipper clutch
Adjustable disc brake
Wide-track suspension (nearly 17 inches wide!)
Stainless steel inboard hinge pins with anodized aluminum braces
8 long stroke oil-filled coilover shock absorbers
Rigid aluminum TVP chassis (Twin Vertical Plates)
Large 160cc fuel tank
Enclosed radio box for protection of electronics
Front and rear skidplate bumpers
Adjustable body posts (with an extra mount for SUV bodies)
* Compatible with T-Maxx bodies
* Compatible with T-Maxx wheels
* Compatible with T-Maxx tires

Also Available!
-- #87032 Reverse Module (using the 3rd channel of the radio system)
-- #87110 Roto Start System (will fit Nitro Star K4.6 engine)

#871 Savage SS 4.6 Kit with Nitro Star K4.6 Engine and Nitro GT-1 Truck Body

Suggest retail price: $779.00 (actual selling price will be lower)

For more information about this and other HPI Racing products, please visit the HPI Racing (http://www.hpiracing.com) website.

[fs454]

Awesome, is it known if/which engine they based the .28 off of?

[RcWebel]

Freakin Awesome!!!!!! Better save up for this one.........Is it ok to have two
Savages??

[StevePond]

Awesome, is it known if/which engine they based the .28 off of?

I'm going to guess that it's built by STS, who makes very nice engines. They make the current .15 engine in the newest Evo RTRs. Yes, you can have more. ;)

[atm92484_3]

Wonder why they didn't put the 3 speed in? Other than that it looks like a freaking sweet kit.

HRP offers a Savage kit right now with no engine; any word if HPI's going to follow their lead and make this truck without the .28?

[MT2 owns you]

i gotta have that...44mph? thats awesome..and itll go faster with the 3 speed? and 2.9 hp..awesome

[metalry101]

I knew they were coming out w/ an updated version yet again...but I had no idea it was gonna be this kickass. Awesome job HPI, just flat out awesome.

[gotspeed_2000]

Now that's a good update to kit. Kinda makes me want to get one. Looks good so far, we'll see if it lives up to the hype though. Like the idea that they addressed some of the issues with the drive train and a higher output motor.

[thedarkness]

Not only that but it gets the good servo saver.The 8 port engine is a great touch, Along with the needles that are set flush out of the box(it really will help newbies get the hang of tuning).Its the first truck ive ever seen that doesnt look like it needs any upgrades, for bashing that is.For racing all it needs is a midmounted tank setup and some LCG twin vertical plates.

[fezzy]

The engine looks like a Hyper to me, The Hyper 12S has a very very very similar crankcase, It has to be made by the same people and up till now I've always convinced Hobao make there own line of Hyper engines, Unless they have contracted someone else to make them on there behalf. But just look at this K46, Take away the machining on the head and its almost an identicle shape to the Hyper 21 head, And the carb looks very similar too especially round the mid range needle. We've also been told Hobao have been working on a .28 engine, So maybe this is it but with HPI Labeling?.

Regarding the SS itself, It looks like a good move on HPI's front, After being a Savage owner I got fed up with the ammount of money I had to spend on getting it to run reliably, Aslong as this stays around the same price as the current SS it might actually be something worth having.

[ducklake1]

Awesome!!

But, where's the 3-speed??

[hernan43]

If this link is any indication:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUP1&P=7

It might mean that the new SS kit is going to cost more than the rtr. I realize it doesn't mean much, but still it is there.
--Ray

[synapse75]

that seems rather overpriced without a rotostart. That also seems rather inconvenient, how do they plan on having ppl start the thing? Or does it come with a pull start :( Seems like they could have just included the rotostart

[synapse75]

I calculate that it will be slightly less than the current RTR version.

[synapse75]

where are the alum shock bodies.. Its a great truck, they just seem to be lagging on somethings out of the box. Its nice to see that they have 4gear diffs now, which buggies weighing half as much usually come with.

[zakerid]

that seems rather overpriced without a rotostart. That also seems rather inconvenient, how do they plan on having ppl start the thing? Or does it come with a pull start :( Seems like they could have just included the rotostart
some would do without the roto-start

[hernan43]

I personally would prefer a pull start. But that is only because I am lazy about charging my roto start's battery. ;)
--Ray

[Breakin2]

Any idea on a release date?

[ALJR]

If this link is any indication:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUP1&P=7

It might mean that the new SS kit is going to cost more than the rtr. I realize it doesn't mean much, but still it is there.
--Ray

tower hobbies almost always over-prices pre-orders!

[Breakin2]

I'm going to wait for Ultimate Hobbies to get it in.

[iguanadon]

Hmm... I was about to buy a savage ss, but now I will have to check this out. (Hopefully it wont cost that much)

[Viper17]

Well I can't afford a new Savage but that motor is gonna be added to my shopping list for sure.

[ososlow]

Well this looks like its going to be my next rc purchase. I have a feeling that it will be close to $800cdn at my LHS though :o .
I wonder how loud it would be with that ribbed pipe :eek: Toss in that new 3 speed and this thing is going to be insane :D

[StevePond]

Awesome!!

But, where's the 3-speed??

It's in the hobby shop along with the optional clutch bells, spur gears, aluminum shocks, and all the other optional stuff that you can buy for a Savage. C'mon guys, they can't include everything in the kit because it would cost a fortune. Everyone wants a different level of equipment - some want the engine, others don't. Some want the tires and wheels, other don't. Some want the painted standard body, others don't. Some want the standard radio gear, others don't. Some want the 3-speed, others don't. you get the point - they can't make a kit for everyone because there would be 400 versions of the truck. They shoot for the most obvious stuff in the kit, and we should be happy that they still take the time to develop whacky option parts for us freaks. :D What fun would be if everyone's truck came with all this stuff?! First, there wouldn't be an "everyone" because it would be so expensive that only "you" and a few other people could afford it. Second, it's always nice to have that secret "ace" up your sleeve when it comes time to lay the smack down. Now, where's that Savage .21 body I had laying around... :D

[Breakin2]

I wonder if it would be cheaper to buy the new motor-less SS and simply buy the new .28 separate as your motor when it comes out.

[StevePond]

There's a lot more to this truck than the engine. There's a whole bunch of upgrades that are needed to handle the extra horsepower. Did you READ the first post?! LOL :D j/k

[Old_School_RC_1]

Wow, I have to hand it to HPI, they certainly don't rest on their laurels! The Savage is a great platform from which to spawn new "versions" It's a strong, good handling, well designed chassis, and the upgrades are just what this truck needed - not enough to really ramp up the price, but enough to keep things interesting. I guess this was the next logical evolution, the chassis and suspension can certainly handle the extra power, and MAJOR KUDOS to HPI for producing a kit version!! Some of us still really enjoy the build, something a lot of manufactureres have seem to forgotten.

Regardless, I love my SS, the three speed (and now WOW! that engine...) are the only things i have left on my list on upgrades...Great work HPI, keep them coming!

[slat26]

hpi is a little late with these new products, they should of aimed for before christmas, i would have got this version instead of the old savage ss :(

but this does sound pretty sweet, and well priced, for the cost of my ss and all those new upgrades , it would be some bit higher than towers asking price for this new kit.

[R/C Kid]

I figured HPI had a new truck on the way but not with a bigger engine my guess was that it would come with all these crazy new hop ups but I was dissapointed to see this doesn't come with their new 3-speed :(.

[iguanadon]

and MAJOR KUDOS to HPI for producing a kit version!! Some of us still really enjoy the build, something a lot of manufactureres have seem to forgotten.


I know, building stuff is almost as fun as taking it out and bashing it. (ok, mabey not, but it still is fun). There should be less RTRs and more kits, or have both RTRs and kits like the savage.
Whats the point of me spending extra money on a bad am radio, when I have a nice FM one? ;) :confused:

[4wdmt]

i wonder how fast can it go if they put their optional 3 speed in there. from acclaimed 44mph to.....

[Old_School_RC_1]

iguanadon, I agree! I have a ton of radios sitting here cause if i want something and it comes RTR, i end up paying extra for a radio i don't need. I have 3 traxxas vehicles, and 3 radios! I use one only, and the rest are collecting dust. I would love to see more kits, but the market sells what it does- I'd settle for ARR (built, but no radio and servos) and a cheaper price ... take note Traxxas! :)

[fezzy]

Traxxas invented RTR, So don't go getting your hopes up on a kit anytime soon, Why change the habbit of a life time?. But I do agree, For me building has always been a large enjoyment, And part of the reason why I got into RC in the first place. Its just such a shame to see so few kits available on the market, So for that I give props to HPI.

[r.c.dealer]

Looks interesting ;)

[microrcdude]

If this link is any indication:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXJUP1&P=7

It might mean that the new SS kit is going to cost more than the rtr. I realize it doesn't mean much, but still it is there.
--Ray
Well, just think, the TC4 was at like $250, and a little later it dropped about $30. Dont expect this to cost that much.

[iguanadon]

The .25 Savage isn't listed at tower anymore. So I went and did a few calculations of the difference of the two including the hop ups.

Savage SS .28 Qt:1 $440
Dirt Bonz tires Qt:2 $47
4 Gear Diff Conv.Qt:1 $10
Cam-Type s.s. Qt:1 $17
2 stage airfilter Qt:1 $15
Dual Disc Brake Qt:1 $17
______________________________
Total without hop-ups $334
Savage SS .25 $320
_____________________________
Amount more for engine, $14
carb, and other unlisted stuff


Looks like a good deal to me, and I didn't even include all of the hop ups listed. People also said that tower loweres the price once it comes in stock.
Can't wait untill it comes in.

[Turbo B]

damn ill be gettin this.. but the 3speed im not sure if im goin to spend the exrta 150 bucks

[ALJR]

damn ill be gettin this.. but the 3speed im not sure if im goin to spend the exrta 150 bucks

$150 for the 3 spd? where did you see a price on it?

[ritchies rc10gt]

damn ill be gettin this.. but the 3speed im not sure if im goin to spend the exrta 150 bucks


my LHS has a few on order already,they told me unassembled was around 80.00 and assembled was around 120.00.i told them get me the unassembled 3 speed,it isnt that hard to put a tranny together.ive done a few.now with my freshly ported .25 and a 3 speed tranny,hmmmmmmm!

[Freak e-maxx1]

glad i didnt get a savage yet sweet

[Quinton]

Since I already have a .25 Savage with some good mods (and I just did the 4 gear diffs this past weekend) would it be just as well to keep it and get a .28 engine? I was thinking about getting the sh .28 or whatever the top engine is this coming spring.
Any idea which engine is "better"?

Thanks
Good job HPI.

[Oldman]

This the only rc truck that takes punishment and goes 40+ mph! You can buy the PRP Raptor (happytimehobby.com) or also known as the Wolverine (RD Logics). Paid $336.00 and it uses a .27 made by Toki. There are no problems with the Raptor I bought and is just as tough as the savage for a lot less money...It's a "knock-off"...whaaaah. That is what they said when I worked on the H2 Hummer and now the H3. These Vehicles kick butt! and earned to be respected. WHo owns a TOYOTA Tundera? Thats a knock-off pickup truck.
In time there will be more like them comming and some of us will finally build threads in this forum defending the newcommers with just as much loyalty!
This is good, as it brings competition, and thus lowering prices.

[flying_sumo]

Awesome!!

But, where's the 3-speed??
what are u complaining about if they sold everying with it it would one cost a fortune and two you would have nothing to wish for and scrape money together to buy

[chickenmobilin]

I have been contiplating buying another Savage(sold my first one , and regret it all the time)So this is the deciding factor! I will have this when it is released , perfect HPI , just perfect!

[r.c.dealer]

This new version of the SS truely deserves the SS moniker unlike the previuos version.

[flying_sumo]

Traxxas invented RTR, So don't go getting your hopes up on a kit anytime soon, Why change the habbit of a life time?. But I do agree, For me building has always been a large enjoyment, And part of the reason why I got into RC in the first place. Its just such a shame to see so few kits available on the market, So for that I give props to HPI.

ur spot on the whole fun is biulding it when they start selling rtr people buy them and don't know how to look after them so they stop working.

[zakerid]

This new version of the SS truely deserves the SS moniker unlike the previuos version.
When the SS came out the only other savage was the 21.

[hernan43]

Does anyone have any word on when we will get to see the new Savage SS on store shelves? Are we going to have to wait long?
--Ray

[iguanadon]

Im assuming soon, becuase towerhobbies says that the .25 ss is discontinued. I don't think they would make people wait for a month without the old or new savage ss to buy.

[GT Freak]

but can the savage handle this:
http://download.teamassociated.com/racerhub/gallery/bigjump.2mb.swf :confused:

[zakerid]

Im assuming soon, becuase towerhobbies says that the .25 ss is discontinued. I don't think they would make people wait for a month without the old or new savage ss to buy.
yes they would

[Quinton]

That's cool, what truck was that? Doesn't look stock at all.

[r.c.dealer]

When the SS came out the only other savage was the 21.

True but when the Savage 25 rtr came out the SS really ceased to be a hopped up version, but with this new 4.6 version with all the included hoppups thats a hole different story. 4.6 has a nice ring to it. ;)

Hmm, this or the Warhead :confused:

[doesgo]

"but can the savage handle this:
http://download.teamassociated.com/...bigjump.2mb.swf"

Yes, and the Savage could most likely have handled a jump from the building all the way to the pavement without having to drop to the top of the container first!

[Windsorguy99]

Wow....

I hate to say "I told ya so'... http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=183856

but this is oneof those situations where it's GOOD to be right ;)

nice looking package...slap a set of Vertigo/Twisted-Toys/etc Low CG TVP's on this and it's a sweet race machine straight out of the box...

[Monsterbrad]

What is the power like on these trucks????
I have heard that they are no faster than a well equipt monster !!!!!!!!
.28 with a 2 speed like the LST or stock savage ss

[gdl357]

Whats with those tiny tires. Put some tires like my USA-1. Then it would be a MONSTER TRUCK! It looks sissy to me, thats why I spent another $200 of backup parts for my truck so it could live for another 6 years ! I would like to see a savage do that. hahaah

[Freedom]

Whats with those tiny tires. Put some tires like my USA-1. Then it would be a MONSTER TRUCK! It looks sissy to me, thats why I spent another $200 of backup parts for my truck so it could live for another 6 years ! I would like to see a savage do that. hahaah

LOl, you see the Savage does not need $200 worth of spare parts. :p

[gdl357]

True, savage will need $300 worth. U forgot to include those cheap plastic shocks the savage comes with in the price.

A so called undestructible truck with cheesy plastic shocks. LOL LOL,

[stonesavage]

True, savage will need $300 worth. U forgot to include those cheap plastic shocks the savage comes with in the price.

A so called undestructible truck with cheesy plastic shocks. LOL LOL,2 years of a-main racing on orginal shocks never bent or leaked! this truck will be a solid runner if you can't deal with the truth suck it up!!!LOL LOL LOL LOL : ;)

[gdl357]

OK, I will look into it, maybe I could use truck from another manufacturer, but it was between the New Savage and the MGT. The MGT has hardened gears all around, and looks more solid. I will have to try it at my LHS.

[Monsterbrad]

Well gdl357
all I can say is I had the 25 version of this truck and I have the MGT now and I like the MGT better but this truck has the good stuff on it so it will be close.
Don't get mad at me HPI fans I am just stating how I feel
I like the savage I feel its the best lookin truck out there just hard to work on

[gdl357]

2 years of a-main racing on orginal shocks never bent or leaked! this truck will be a solid runner if you can't deal with the truth suck it up!!!LOL LOL LOL LOL : ;)
After watching this video there is no way I will buy the so called "Undestructable" Savage. lol!! I don't think the 4.6 is any different

http://www.monsterrccentral.com/rcvideos/savagecrash.wmv

[Danno]

Totally staged video , how stupid do you think I am .....if you don`t like the truck find another thread ?

[Danno]

undestructable ? I find my Savage INdestructable !

[gdl357]

Totally staged video , how stupid do you think I am .....if you don`t like the truck find another thread ?


I didn't make that video, just so u know, and after talking to my LHS he said the Savage handles like crap and recommended the Monster GT. Later Savage fans. Good luck with your HPI kiddy toy.

[Danno]

I didn't make that video, just so u know, and after talking to my LHS he said the Savage handles like crap and recommended the Monster GT. Later Savage fans. Good luck with your HPI kiddy toy.
Hmmmm, something tells me we haven`t reached the level of maturity needed own a real nitro powered monster truck , are we maybe 14 ?

[maddevildog]

I have a Tmaxx that is completly redone. I have been looking to buy a on road nitro..... leaning towards the TC3 plus, but when I was at the hobby shop yesterday looking at this savage kit, and after reading this thread I may be buying this truck. Just trying to think if I need 2 monster trucks. DJ

[thedarkness]

After watching this video there is no way I will buy the so called "Undestructable" Savage. lol!! I don't think the 4.6 is any different

http://www.monsterrccentral.com/rcvideos/savagecrash.wmv
That was some dumb kid without the screws in the rear end of his savage.How else would a front impact would the back end pop off completely un harmed you can see there is no place where the screws ripped out.If you belive that video I got a bridge in san fransico you can buy.

[stonesavage]

Don't even bother responding to this PUKE! he's just some little kid who know's nothing about r/c just like a child who is looking for a reaction cause he's bored/lonley/nobody like him/ect....after all he owns a 6 year old toy kyosho I bet his mommy is looking for her flashlight batteries right now! HEY MOM CHECK INSIDE JUNIOR"S TOY TRUCK! LMAO HAHAHAHA :D

[Mustang2]

so to get this truck running you have to have the roto-start or pullstart..and a radio and 2 servos...right?? of course fuel and what not...

[thedarkness]

It comes with a pullstart but you will need a radio with a servo over 130oz of torque(metal gear) for steering and one with about 50 oz torque for throttle for best results.

[Monsterbrad]

One of you guys that wants one of these you should send it to me let me build it then I will send it back.
I just want to build one dying to build something here.
This truck looks like it would be fun to build!

[CRSMP5]

mb i built mine, did real oils and all, broke in the engine, kept the engine, sold it as a roller for 300 in under 7 days.. i want to keep testign the engine out.. but its the 1st savage to make me semi happy they fixed all but the crappy throttle linkage, brakes worked, engine has some serious power, and it went together real nice..

[CRSMP5]

I just received my new Savage SS 4.6, had the pretty new black chrome maxima so fitted her up. The SS kit includes a wire and aluminum mount for its polished pipe which is a perfect fit for the pipe, no need to use the included hardware makes life even easier as you do not need to bend the wire.

I did my 2 static tanks of fuel, then drove 4 hours to a nice warm indoor track in Dayton Ohio called the X-dome. There I finished up my break in of the new k4.6 engine. I tuned the engine in with a crowd of people gathered wanting to see what the new savage will do. They were at aww over the pipes looks and its nice deep sound. Pictures do not do this pipe justice, the black chrome is so deep and rich its sad to even see it get dirty.

Performance, I compaired it to the stock polished HPI pipe that comes with the new SS 4.6 kit, I found it to be a much smoother bottom end, great midrange and comparable top end. It also sounds much better, I thought it would be loud and was very plesently suprised at its pleasing tone.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savagess28/ss28010.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savagess28/ss28006.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savagess28/ss28004.jpg

now i just need my set of revision 2 LCG tvps i designed for the beast.. :)

[gdl357]

LOL that has to be the funniest tuned pipe I ever saw. Kiddy stuff. To bad there are no blue lights to get everyone even more wet. Keep on supporting the kiddy toy market, because I surely won't. Can't wait to see your body cut into that Stinger. :p

[Danno]

LOL that has to be the funniest tuned pipe I ever saw. Kiddy stuff. To bad there are no blue lights to get everyone even more wet. Keep on supporting the kiddy toy market, because I surely won't. Can't wait to see your body cut into that Stinger. :p
*** is that comment all about ?

[Danno]

Join date 1-28-05 total posts 10 ....................go away .

[CRSMP5]

that was my thoughts also.. all i know is tsais makes a damb fine bashing pipe, some are even good for race applications.. the old seamed ones perform differently vs the new seamless ones, so in theory you can use the 2 to fine tune the track you run on.. old style killed bottom end, but gained abunch on top..

he can go away like ya said though..

[gdl357]

Danish, who made u the president of the United states. Get off of that flagpole ur sitting on. If u can't accept my opinion, then just read on. There, This makes 11 now.

[Danno]

CRSMP5 , how does that pipe sound ?

[CRSMP5]

nice and rich... i was honestly suprised at it... i mailed it off to a fellow mod on savage-central for his opinion, then he is supposed to mail it to the other mod for his opinion.. its traveling the country.. :D but i want a honest opinion, ive had tsais pipes since the original one came out, i still use them whan i want massive top end, have one on my rb ws7II even, runs like a rb 063 pipe on it.. i have never been highly impressed with teh bad boy pipe.. but this one is much nicer then the bad boy was...

[gdl357]

O.K., I just purchased my New Savage SS 4.6 kit today. I hope this truck lives up to its word. After making some killler jumps with my Usa-1 today I ended up stripping one of my rear end gears. Discontined part so I got fed up of that and chucked the hole F@cking thing in a box. Ripped out the digital servos,radio, fuel filter and tires/wheels and plan on putting that stuff on my Savage, as the wheels are a perfect fit if I use the Usa-1 hex nuts instead of the HPI ones. SO here I am. DO u guys conscider me part of the HPI Group. I already own a RS4-2 Nitro moded to the tilt just so u know.

I will tell u guys what parts I will break on the Savage, if I ever do. My LHS told me that the only 2 weak points the New Savage has is the Main gear which ends up stripping, and a One Way bearing that is located up front I think. The Main Gear can be easilly fixed with a steal gear upgrade. Then he says I will never have to worry about that again. Anyways the parts are about $20 total and if I have only those to change after a few months I will be on the floor laughting .

One thing to understand, never get pissed off at someone when he gives an opinion that u don't like. Thats what opinions are for. I still think the Savage comes with g.....y tires and that will be the first thing that is coming off my truck, actually they won't even make it on the truck.

Thx for all ur info guys.

[CRSMP5]

i have spurs with many many galons of fuel on them.. if you set mesh right it will last 15gal no issue.. yes i have one with that many gal on it.. took it off to put a 49t spur on it.. LOL..

1 ways.. thats a new k4.6 engine.. completly different.. different 1 way and all.. just make sure to loosen the glow plug till you get a gal+ on the new engine when you goto start it cold..

[gdl357]

just make sure to loosen the glow plug till you get a gal+ on the new engine when you goto start it cold..

Why is this? To not damage the pullstart or to not damage the engine?
thx
:confused:

I wonder if I can use my Sidewinder 20%Nitro 12%Lube or should I go out and buy some fuel wih 16%+Lube to break in this new engine.

[CRSMP5]

well till its broken in there si enough friction/pinch that with it tight it can damage the unique k4.6 ONLY pull start.. there is no replacements or any ohters that will fit the engine.. if ya crack her loose you help prevent breakage of it...

[gdl357]

I thank you for your info CRSMP5, read your reply in other forum, LOL. Sry for previous rude post.

[Savage_26]

This looks like a sweet truck, I might have to Pick one up to have as my 2nd truck. Anybody experiencing any Problems with it yet?

Oh, Hello.......

CRSMP5

[gdl357]

Hi, the only problems I am hearing about it right now are:
1) a few people got engines with metal shavings and burrs on the cylinder and exhust ports.
2) some people are stripping the hex nuts on the wheels.

L8tr

[the Gunny]

Hi, the only problems I am hearing about it right now are:
1) a few people got engines with metal shavings and burrs on the cylinder and exhust ports.
2) some people are stripping the hex nuts on the wheels.

L8tr
i have put a gallon and half through mine no probs so far. except operator error. I broke a pull start HPI was cool and sent me a new one for free.

[scaredsilly]

I've also broken my pullstart, well, halfway. It still kind works. Love the truck though.

[Brahmzy]

Mine'll be here next week...I'll let you know. Anything to watch out for? I don't wanna break the pull start.

[CRSMP5]

loosen glow plug = no broken pull start.. once it is running then tighten it

[RenHoek]

Just getting my feet wet w/RC, and decided to jump all the way in with the Savage 46 as my 1st one.

I broke it in this weekend. I got 5 tanks through it with no problems. Started up pretty easily. I took the advice I'd read here of loosening the plug and that helped it start after 8 or so pulls the first time. After that time, it started on 1st or 2nd pull.

The only issue I had was a small fuel leak in the gas tank. The first time I filled the tank and primed the engine on the bench (no glow starter, plugging the pipe, pull it a couple of times) I noticed that the tank had fuel on the outside. I checked for leaks around the tubes - nope. It was SLOWLY seeping right at the seam between the two tank halves, at the rear of the tank. Gunna call HPI today for a replacement. I went ahead with the break in though with no probs (although, each "tank" was probably really a "3/4 tank" since it leaked until the fuel was below the seam...)

I gotta noobie question, though, related to measuring the engine temps. I'm using a Duratrax temp gun (like a keyless entry key fob), and getting head temps around 150F, but then the exhaust header is around 310F. The instructions refer to temps being measured "at the glow plug", but since the head's got the huge purple heat sink on it, you can't really get right up to the plug like you can with the exhaust header. I figured I wasn't running anything too hot, since it was only slightly leaner than the factory break in settings and I was getting plenty of smoke and oil outta the pipe, but I need to clear this up before I start leaning it out for more power.

All in all, I'm very impressed! Near the end of the 5th tank, it started getting too fast for my backyard! Time to take it to the park and tune it up.

-RenHoek

[SmoothSL]

I've got one on the way.. I've been posting in the general talk forum about the 4.6.. But this seems to be the place to be.. I see there were issues with shavings in the 4.6.. Have these been resolved, or should I bust it open when I get it? What kind of fuel have you been running? I've got Traxxas 20% left over from my Traxxas stuff.. Wondering what people are running..
Just need the UPS man to get here.. And whoever said something about those stock tires.... They do look weak.. But that can be easily fixed via ebay.. :)

[TRF Drive Hard]

Looks like i will be joining this boat... i got a project i am doin so ima need all the help i need :D

First question actually... i have seen on ebay a twin engine conversion... i think its a twin .21 engine... which is better? twin .21/.28s or the single 4.6?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=44028&item=5938872686&rd=1&ssPageName=WD1V

[Danno]

Measure temps by pointing your temp gun straight down at the glow plug (into the heat sink ). Don`t know what the 4.6 has been running but 250-260 should be safe .

[Danno]

"First question actually... i have seen on ebay a twin engine conversion... i think its a twin .21 engine... which is better? twin .21/.28s or the single 4.6?"


The single engine would be way less of a headache !!

[TRF Drive Hard]

"First question actually... i have seen on ebay a twin engine conversion... i think its a twin .21 engine... which is better? twin .21/.28s or the single 4.6?"


The single engine would be way less of a headache !!

What kinda reply is that? headache or no headache i dont care, its called RC... :rolleyes:

The only thing newbie about me is nitro... so a more responsive reply would be better... im asking which is would be better in terms of power... having a twin engine or single? This project involves RCX and eBay... so a lil help would be nice...

[RenHoek]

Measure temps by pointing your temp gun straight down at the glow plug (into the heat sink ). Don`t know what the 4.6 has been running but 250-260 should be safe .

That's what I figured...just wanna be sure so I don't ruin the engine doing something stoopid. I read up on the temp gun last night, and for any other noob's reference, the big differences I was seeing between the head and the exhaust header temps were probably due to the "emmisivity" setting on the temp gun. I had it set to 77E, which is what they recommend for anodized aluminum, but the setting for shiny or sandblasted aluminum (which is what the header is) is way down to 21E.

Also, for the record, I called HPI about the leaky tank and they've got a replacement going right out! That's service!

-RenHoek

[Brahmzy]

WOW, just wow.

I got my kit, built it all up (stayed up 'til 3AM, hehe) and ran the crap out of it all day yesterday. First of all, this kit is great-very well thought out. I had very little issues breaking in the motor-ran the 4 tanks through it before really leaning things out. I did have some issues with the 2-speed not engaging. I reset the 2-speed 4.5 turns out and it all worked fine.

I did take a few rolls which put some nice scratches on my beautiful 4.6 head, ouch. But I knew it'd get tore up. I also hit a few curbs head on and at angles and the truck just bounced off-VERY tough truck. I would've been out close to $75 on one of my hits with anything else.

To all of you who don't have an air compressor-get one! It makes cleaning this truck a dream. I was able to completely clean out the grimy greasy dirt off the whole truck with compressed air. Cans won't work-they don't have the PSI needed.

Anyway, I'm goin' to tear up some more dirt! This truck is fast and it jumps high!

[Monsterbrad]

Ok here is a question?????
LST sell
buy a 4.6 savage!
I am just scared to put the LST through any kind of beating it will break too much stuff.....
anybody tangle with the LST at all bashing or on the track...

[Brahmzy]

I've heard the LSTs are very tough trucks.

[Monsterbrad]

They are but I just don't feel they are as tough as the savage is.
Plus HPI fixed all the crap that I hated about my 25 that I had.
Still don't like the TVP's but I want a fast tough truck to build myself.
The 4.6 seems like it will fill my need for wanting to build something.
But the LST will have to be sold first ...
It's a hard decision.

[Brahmzy]

Man, my buddy's about 2 weeks away from dropping $600 on an LST-maybe I should have him talk to you.

[Monsterbrad]

WEll send him my way
Here is my number
have him call me
814-450-6973
I have an LST no radio will have all the stock servo's and will need broken in cause the Mach that is in it is brand new.

[Tim'sLosi]

What kinda reply is that? headache or no headache i dont care, its called RC... :rolleyes:

The only thing newbie about me is nitro... so a more responsive reply would be better... im asking which is would be better in terms of power... having a twin engine or single? This project involves RCX and eBay... so a lil help would be nice...

From all the reviews I have read regarding twin engined vehicles I would steer clear. Unless, that is, you are building a novelty truck. They all seem to have tons of low end that will flip the truck over on a whim but limited high end. I am not sure why this is.
IMHO, a single high revving big block is the best choice for a serious truck. Or a high torque 4.6 geared high. Less weight by far, less maintenance, less fuel all = more fun.
My $.02 if it helps!

[Danno]

I look at it from this standpoint , kind of like having two girlfriends , sure it might be fun at times but getting them to agree all the time seems impossible ! RC is all about having fun , standing on the drivers stand with your truck on the track running good fun . Tuning one engine is enough for most people , 2 would be a HASSLE .

[Flying Finn]

Does the new 4.6 kit have a turnbuckle tie rods,or are the tie-rods fixed (well i don't really mean fixed,but you know,non-turnbuckle :p )?
My english ain't that good,so i hope you'll understand what i'm saying here :D

[thedarkness]

Personnaly I dont think it would be harder to tune 2 engines, You tune one up shut her down and tune the other.As for them not being fast top speed wise heres some vids.
http://www.1337rc.com/rccars/NicklasCustomMonster.wmv
http://madd-marvin.tripod.com/TwinWaspVideo.wmv

[ntloser]

Wow those twin engines are sick!!!.. I just picked up my Savage 4.6 SS kit today. Wow again, I am not sure if I will be able to put it together.

[ntloser]

How long should the kit take to put together? Are there any parts that did not come with the kit that I should get before I start assembly? Like a rollcage? Or any after market parts made to address known "problem" parts with the kit?

Thanks

[Monsterbrad]

ntloser
where are you at????
I will put the kit together for you for free if you want me too.
I have been in the Hobby for 16+ years and really want to build one of these trucks with out having to buy one.
Let me know
or call me email me
ExExCr@aol.com
814-450-6973
I would love to build you this truck!
still debating on buying one too

[doesgo]

I've heard the LSTs are very tough trucks.

I beg to differ, unfortunately. The body is junk (super thin), but that's no big deal. We (slapmafro.com) broke one axle pin during BREAK-IN which is really lame. Since then no more broken axles, fortunately, but we've only really had it though one good bashing session and have broken three A-arms, the front diff case, and now the upper chassis plate is bent and the brace that goes between the upper chassis plate and lower plate is BROKEN! We bashed pretty hard, I will admit, but this is crazy.

We put a Savage through the same abuse (but about five times more of it and with harder landings) and only broke one dogbone pin and it wasn't even an HPI part, it was a dogbone out of a GS Storm buggy!

Of everything we've owned or driven, Savages are the best for bashing, hands down. The LST is a blast to drive when it works, but unfortunately it doesn't work all that often.

[ntloser]

Monsterbrad,
Thanks for your offer;

I started putting it together and found that it was kinda easy. I guess I was intimidated by all the parts. I am about half way through and have only stopped because I need to get some more parts. I need Lock tight and I want to get a different battery for the reciever.. I dont want to use 4AAs

[PCC]

I got mines last night. I got to step 14 or 15 and had to put it away for the night. I wasn't working slow, just that I didn't get home until 9:00 PM then put in two hours working on this.

[ntloser]

AWWW Yeah.. you are going to love it... after it is tuned....

[PCC]

I got it about 80% complete last night.

[46u]

All I need is a 3-channel radio system. I am upgrading to FM. Will change my other trucks shortly after I get the system for my 4.6 SS. The kit was real easy to put together and the instruction are very easy to understand. Other then the radio system my truck has been done for a month. Hope to get the radio system soon!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[Monsterbrad]

Well I bought one :D
I hope this truck is going to be more reliable than my LST was.
I had the 25 version of this truck a while ago and it was super tough.
Can't wait to build it!

[Raster]

Well I bought one :D
I hope this truck is going to be more reliable than my LST was.
I had the 25 version of this truck a while ago and it was super tough.
Can't wait to build it!


Brad,

I'm waiting on mine, too. Can't wait. I've never had a Savage.

Good luck with your build. I'm sure it will be tougher than your LST was.

[Monsterbrad]

well from what I can remember it was.
but i'll see when I start bashing the crap outa it!
:D

[PCC]

I hate building shocks. Last night I sat down and built all 8 of them. The chassis build is complete but I still need to put the throttle/brake servo in, set up the linkages, install the engine, and it will be running! I'm still waiting for my Picco .26 to come back from the guy who's porting it but that should be soon. The stock .28 is on eBay.

One thing I noticed about the shocks is that they are really stiff since they don't use bladders in them. Am I supposed to leave an air pocket at the top of them or should I buy a set of bladders and drop them in? Also, do the teflon shock pistons from the standard HPI touring cars fit these shocks?

I'm trying to run this truck completely stock, except for the engine, to see what breaks, if anything.

[ntloser]

I didn't like building the shocks either. But once I built one, I was slapping the others together with a quickness. My biggest problem was the first step of the shock assembly. Getting a grip on the metal bar to screw down the nut and washer was a pain. I didn't to a good job. But later, I discovered if I used a green cisco pad in conjunction with my needlenose pliers, I could easily grip those bars and screw things in. But it was too late. All 8 of my shocks have that washer/nut inside that is slightly loose. I wonder if that is what makes them so mushy.

Anyway, I had planned on getting some aluminum shocks from the very begining so I ordered some and will use the stock ones until they break or I get bored and change them :)

[Raster]

I hate building shocks. Last night I sat down and built all 8 of them. The chassis build is complete but I still need to put the throttle/brake servo in, set up the linkages, install the engine, and it will be running! I'm still waiting for my Picco .26 to come back from the guy who's porting it but that should be soon. The stock .28 is on eBay.

One thing I noticed about the shocks is that they are really stiff since they don't use bladders in them. Am I supposed to leave an air pocket at the top of them or should I buy a set of bladders and drop them in? Also, do the teflon shock pistons from the standard HPI touring cars fit these shocks?

I'm trying to run this truck completely stock, except for the engine, to see what breaks, if anything.



How is the stock .28 that comes with the 4.6 kit? Does it last very long? Would a Wasp .26 have more power than that .28?

[CRSMP5]

mb i have a set of LCG tvps or you can order direct.. call/pm me and ill hook ya with info..

for PCC
http://photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savage_long_arm1/

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savage_long_arm1/conv004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savage_long_arm1/conv003.jpg



add 1/4" to each side.. with all luck it will the LSTs

parts list..

1 pack c8155 f,r upper arm ball end (lightning stadium) $3.00

1 pack c8098 Fixing ball Upper Suspention $????

1 pack c8014 front pins of lower suspension $3.00

2 pack c8064 front wheel axel shaft (diff drive cups) $5.00

1 pack c8015 rear pins of lower suspention $3.00

1 pack c8008 rear wheel hub $5.00

1 pack c8011 front hub carriers $5.00

1 pack c8119 front steering fixing parts $3.00

1 pack c8081 steering arm $6.00 (note these are pot metal, dynimite makes a cnc 7075 knukle for i think 20$ a pair for a gs storm that is exact same, HB 7075 is 60$)

1 pack c8116 suspention holder ~???

2 packs c8158 r,r lower suspension arm set, (lightning stadium) $8.00/pack

2 packs c8167 universal joints (lightning stadium) 40$ a pair
----------or----------------------------
cvd bone section of LST x2, 2 LST rebuild kits for CVDs, and 2 tsais stubaxels for their cvds ~ $30 a set that way



the arms are extreamly modded.. if they break it will gain either aluminum lower arms OR if i can get a set of mutant savage/lightning stadium ones made from derlin i will..
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savage_long_arm1/arms/arm004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/savage_long_arm1/arms/arm001.jpg
like i said in the other thread.. i update that thread with findings..

since the original post ive moved/modded the buggies rear toe block to adjust toe and such... part marked in red.. this one step makes this mod difficult unless you know how to use a dremal. you will also need to mod the savage bulks as the hing pin will go thru it in a angle

[PCC]

Thanks, CRSMP5. I read the entire thread on Savage-Racer and this raised some questions: do the suspension parts just bolt on without modification? I see that you are trying to modify the rear suspension, is this because the rear LSP suspension does not have toe-in? Seems like you need new rear suspension rear mounts that are about 2mm wider per side for rear toe-in. I can make my own rear mounts for this purpose.

Thanks again!

[Monsterbrad]

I am going to stick with the truck stock for now !!!!
Just to see how it is for bashing I think it will do fine.
the new 28 seems like it has a ton of power from what I have been hearing.

[Brahmzy]

The K4.6 is an awesome engine. I love mine. Looks new inside after 2 gallons and heavy abuse.

[Monsterbrad]

Has anybody had any probelms with starting the engine????
I have heard that you have to loosen the plug to start the engine for the first little while.

[ntloser]

I didn't have to loosen the glow plug. Once I found out I had to prime the engine and open the carb, it fired right up. Use extremely short pulls on the cord!!

[CRSMP5]

pcc the one toe block i used added 2mm to both sides for toe in :) the block i used is like 5$ but with no toe block rear toe is 0..

if you look at the above post/photos of the arms side by side, you can see what needs modded to make them fit.. really its not much, just little time with a dremal.. its just the rear toe block.. the savage hingpins go thru the bulks.. you have to wallow out the pin hole thru it to get them to move out 2mm.. see how the bulks require modding? what im hoping to do is consult paul, guy i sent a set of arms to to make for me is to incoperate this 2mm into the arm desing.. make the hingpin move thru the arm in a angle, to eliminate this issue.. but if i do that.. then you could not "adjust" unless you did said mod anyways.. im working on trying the different toe blocks to see which i feel is best IMO for the purpose.. also with modding the arm for the 2mm it may make bump steer.. as the arm moves up will it still be at 2mm... so im trying to take some though into that also.. i want racers to be competitive with ease.. CVDS makes this costly along with the whole what steering knuckle to use.. else its pretty cheap to do..

since HPI and HB merged, never know maybe a future savvy will incorperate what ive done here.. but for now.. my savvy is one of the best handling trucks ive drove.. this includes my hb truggy.. its a tad bouncy weight thing, vs the savage.. the savvy just feels planted..

[losi racer13]

hey guys what do u think of this engine for racing http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFAC3&P=7

[CRSMP5]

that have no pull start... besides that the carb sux till you put a os 20e carb on it

[Monsterbrad]

I like that arm setup there cr
Looks sweeet
Maybe will do that to mine after I see how it is first.
The only thing about this truck is it's narrower than the LST but I hope off set wheels will cure that problem.
Can't wait to start the build on the truck.
Hopefuly this weekend.

[PCC]

hey guys what do u think of this engine for racing http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFAC3&P=7
IMHO, it's an okay engine. You can add the pullstart from the other Hyper .21 engines so it can be made to work in the Savage. Despite this engine having the word 'Race' in its name I think it's a good sport engine. My brother's S7 would smoke this engine when he was breaking it in and my Hyper 21 Race running at about 275 degrees F.

[CRSMP5]

again.. you CANNOT get a pull start race version of the hyper 8 port.. in japan they sold them, but the USA does not get them.. i have a old old japan version... you would have to get the crank drilled for the 1 way bearing for a pull start, figure 50$ then the back plate and all another 50$ from ebay pieces as new is 100..

ill have to let ya see the long arm set up mb.. right now mine is as wide as a LST and the LSP..

[Monsterbrad]

that is the only thing about the savage is it's not as wide as the LST.
Cr do the wide off set wheels make the truck as wide???
I know the LST is 18" stock the 4.6 here is only 16"

[PCC]

again.. you CANNOT get a pull start race version of the hyper 8 port.. in japan they sold them, but the USA does not get them.. i have a old old japan version... you would have to get the crank drilled for the 1 way bearing for a pull start, figure 50$ then the back plate and all another 50$ from ebay pieces as new is 100..
I have fitted the pullstarter assembly from my Hyper 8 port (or from the Hyper 4 port for that matter) onto my Hyper 8 Port Race and it worked without any problem or mods needed.

[Monsterbrad]

Any of you guys running this truck have any problems yet?????
Just curious if I should make not while building it!

[CRSMP5]

my lst with off set maxx wheels were as wide as the savage with the outback welds 40s on it.. with it the way it is at the moment.. with the outback welds 40s.. it is as wide as a LST with stock tires.. the wheels are at same width as the stock tires outer surface.. rember the LST has major tire roll/side wall from the wheel.. so in theory my savage is wider then lst with stable maxx wheels at this moment.. but off set wheels will not do as good as the suspention i have on it..

[Monsterbrad]

Well as a normally do it I am going to run the 4.6 here all stock at the start to see how it is.
Then change things as needed.
This is just a basher for me no racing with this one.
Just want a stone cold reliable basher truck that can run with the MGT as far as durability!

[CRSMP5]

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/savage/cuda3/sr001.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/bodies/savage/cuda3/sr002.jpg
got a cuda body??

[PCC]

I ran my Savage the other night. The stock pipe is LOUD!!!!!

So far I have installed some skid plates that my friend bought from Savage Central (3-piece, like thin stainless plates).

I plan on running it stock otherwise despite having some extended TVPs, titanium rear dogbones, and Hot Bodies universals sitting in a box ready to install.

[Monsterbrad]

Mine should be here this week!
Hope to start building it soon
Can't wait
have not built anything in a long time

[Monsterbrad]

BUILDING!
Can't wait to try this 28 :D

[Duster_360]

I'm bummed - ordered one Wed last week from Ultimate Hobbies and when it didn't show up on my credit card today, called them today and they're back ordered!!

I guess it will work out - I have to fly to Boston this Thurs for 6 days. They said they should have one for me in a week - by the time I get back. So, instead of looking forward to getting to build it, I can only look forward to good news and then wait on the brown truck.

[ntloser]

Monsterbrad,

Make sure to put lock tight on the pullstarter bolts.

[Monsterbrad]

they come out I take it!
I will have to do that then.
I really wish that HPI had not put the tranny and diffs together!
Kinda ticks me off.
I have the diffs lubed and ready to go workin on the chassis now.
Looks good so far!
This thing just has some beefy parts much better looking for toughness than the LST was.
Oh well
I'll see when I start pounding the heck outa it in a few days!

[Brahmzy]

Very good advice---Loctite ANY metal to metal screw on the Savage. They will come out. I've had PS screws come out, Tuned pipe grub screws come out(this really sucks), servo screws (this sucks even worse as it strips the arm) ANY metal to metal screw needs loc-tite.

[PCC]

I'll see when I start pounding the heck outa it in a few days!
Imagine the owner of a Savage SS 4.6 trying purposely to try to break his new truck, telling his friend and brother to do the same then spending the next four hours in two 2-hour stints beating the hell out of the poor truck and the only problems that came about being a shock that popped its cap a few times then the shock body gets wedged between the manifold and the shock tower where it punched a hole into the side of the shock, and the fuel tank got a small crack in it. That was my friend, my brother, and me yesterday. This is one tough truck! My brother was commenting that his Dominator would not have held up like my Savage did. All I have in my Savage that is not stock are the stainless steel skids from the front bumper to the rear bumper, the ported Picco .26, and the stock T-Maxx wheels and tires. We're so happy with our purchase decision that we are each getting a second Savage for our kids!

[Monsterbrad]

Well I had the 25 when it first came out and I pounded the heck outa it then and it took all I could give it till the diffs gave out!
The only reason for selling the truck was I wanted the LST and the LST proved that it is kinda weak in the areas that I want a good truck in.
Just a basher that can take way more than I can give it.
I think that the savage here is going to be the truck but I will know what happens after this weekend I hope!
Have to run to the hobby shop for some bearings for the steering!
Then keep going on the assembly!
So far it looks great though
good to hear a nice bash story too!!!! :)

[Dinky]

anyone having trouble with the stock slipper pads, i only had my sav for 2 weeks now and wore out 3 pads. the first one was my fault for not checking to see if the spring was tight enough, the secound one i thought it was tight enough the thrid one i tightened it up till the locknut wouldnt turn no more and it is ready for a new pad again, anyone know of a heavy duty replacement, i just junked myh t-maxx for my first savage so i am new to this truck

[Monsterbrad]

try cleaning the the disks and see what happens.
I have not run my truck yet but tomorrow will be the first day I hope!
break in time!!!!!

[Brahmzy]

I usually crank mine out 1/4 turn from full-it works well. Also, you can scuff up the metal slipper disc for some extra gription.

[Tim'sLosi]

Does anybody have it in stock for sale as cheaply, shipped, as Ultimate??

[Dinky]

i burnt another pad up today, maybe i will try scuffing up the disk if that dont work i am seriously thinking about bolting the spur to that metal disk

[ntloser]

Slipper pads? Are those the 3 clutch pads that go on the flywheel with those springs? If so .. yeah the stock ones totally suck. The clutch and mesh were the only things I didn't set up myself. I had the LHS put on aluminium pads and stronger springs.

[doesgo]

Those are the clutch shoes, ntloser. The slipper pad is an adhesive-backed disk that attaches to the spur gear.

[Dinky]

yeah i dont have a problem with the stock cluch shoes, i just found out what is causing it to go bad. i replaced another pad went out on the street drove fine till i bashed into the curb then the pad was shot again, i think the 4.6 is to powerful for the pad and once it is pin against something and the gas is applied the slipper pad burns up

[Monsterbrad]

Well i just cranked down on the slipper nut!!!
That took care of that problem
I did notice that this engine like to run kinda hot!
Wheelies are just too much fun and this thing makes them look easy!
Truck seems pretty good so far after heat cycling the engine 2 tanks after that seems to be running pretty good just a little hot!
Bash session very soon :)

[Ball Racing]

Savage slipper needs to be tightened down GOOD , I put a second nut on there to keep it from backing off.....

[Raster]

Well i just cranked down on the slipper nut!!!
That took care of that problem
I did notice that this engine like to run kinda hot!
Wheelies are just too much fun and this thing makes them look easy!
Truck seems pretty good so far after heat cycling the engine 2 tanks after that seems to be running pretty good just a little hot!
Bash session very soon :)


Brad,

Is the cooling head on the 4.6 engine cast or machined billet? I wonder if a better cooling head will help?

[Brahmzy]

Raster,
the K4.6 head is typical cast. I have a NOVA head and absolutley love it. I was running 280-290 with stock and now I run 220-230 with the NOVA. No joke. I will NEVER own another nitro 2-stroke without a NOVA head. Not to mention it is 7075, so it's STRONG.

[Monsterbrad]

So the Nova head makes a huge dif?????
Mine is running super hot also...
Going to try to tune it out tomorrow see if I can get it to run cooler with the stock head.
I really don't wanna burn up a brand new engine.
290 is too hot!!!!!

[Brahmzy]

Get a NOVA-you'll never mess with temps again. I haven't touched my needles for over a gallon and a half. Just start and drive. The single best mod I've ever done.

[Dinky]

i have already tighten it up all the way and burnt the slipper pad, i will try it that way again when i get the motivation to take the motor out again i just dont under stand why it is so delicate oh well , now for engine temps i run mine completely stock and i havent had mine over 250 yet

[Monsterbrad]

Well mine has been running about 280 or so starts making good power at 240 and just keeps climbing after that can't get it to stop getting hot!
Starting to piss me off.
anybody put a Mach in this truck or is there not enough room for the roto start?
I am not impressed with this engine so far :mad:

[Brahmzy]

Not impressed with the K4.6?!?! This is one of the best running, fastest engines I've owned. It starts when you want it to, it stays running, and makes hella power. Just get a NOVA head and you'll really love the engine.

[Monsterbrad]

going to try the nova head and put it in my Hot Bodies truck!
I threw the Mach from one of my LST's in the savage!
About to go try it now!
:)

[Monsterbrad]

This truck is really pissing me off here :mad:
Tranny problems now :mad:
I give up
stripped my spur gear out
:mad:

[doesgo]

Stripped spur? Is that REALLY the truck's fault, MB? ;-)

I just stripped my Savage's spur a couple weeks ago, too. Second time in....over two years. :)

[CRSMP5]

be very very carfull.. the 4.6 there is a issue.. either the cb or clutch shoes.. run a vented cb and or mugen shoes.. the cb gets hot enough to melt the teeth off the spur in stock form.. ive seen where after its shut off and sitting the spur melts where th ecb touches it..

[redbarton]

Anybody try out the Nova RC M.A.D. towers? I'm waiting on my SS 4.6 kit (back ordered through Tower) and thought I might order up a pair of these to install as I build the kit. Nova sold a pair of these on eBay just recently and said that you could lower the ride height of the savage, still using the stock shocks, by moving the pivot points to the top of the tower. Has anybody tried this? And if so, how did it affect the handling?

[CRSMP5]

they eat body mounts.. but ive had mine for a long time.. unless your trying buggy shocks they are a waste unless looking for bling..

[redbarton]

they eat body mounts.. but ive had mine for a long time.. unless your trying buggy shocks they are a waste unless looking for bling..

Thanks for the info. Are there any other recommended towers that can be used to lower the ride height of a savage using the stock shocks?

[CRSMP5]

none do... you add a piece of 1/2" fuel tubing inside the shock on the shock shaft to lower them..

[Monsterbrad]

I am selling mine as a roller!
email me
ExExCR@aol.com
or call me
814-450-6973
RTR with 645 steering servo bearings in the steering
No engine
stock tires never used not even glued yet!
Just built

[Duster_360]

CRSMP5 - the fix for the issue you mentioned on the lprev page for melting the spur in teh 4.6 - will an Ofna vented bell fit? I assume the mugen shoes you merntioned are for the mbx5? What clutch springs would you run? Thanks!

[doesgo]

Holy crap, Monsterbrad! You change vehicles faster than I change air filters!

[CRSMP5]

yes ive been using ofna vented cbs since the beginning.. pick up a ofna cb shim kit too as it will not be able to use the brass washer (wears out anyways aka i use shim kit to replace it at the begining) and id say 1.0 springs and mugen composite shoes.. yes same as mbx5 and mbx4..

[Duster_360]

CRSMP5 - wanted to be sure. I've got the shim kit, just need the others pieces. Don't want to be melting anything, lol! Thanks

[Monsterbrad]

For get it I am keeping the truck.
Sorry guys what can I say I like to try them all and then sell them off.
I am happy with the few I have now.
Just have to ditch the rc18t that's all.
Also anybody have trouble with the 4.6 tranny ???
A screw came out of the gear in the tranny and tore stuff up pretty bad.
Just got a new tranny from ebay!
40 bucks shipped just need a new spur now and the Mach installed back in again :)

[PCC]

My brother finally managed to break my Savage. He was doing backflips with it and landed it full-throttle on soft grass and then the front left dogbone snapped. He also noticed that my Savage wasn't rolling nicely anymore. At first we thought the tranny was toasted but it turned out to be one of the brake disks: I found that the outer one was bent up pretty badly and it was binding up when it went through the brake pads. After straightening it out it seemed to be fine. A little heavy braking should take care of it. I wonder what happened to bend the brake disk?

Luckily, I bought some Savage HD dogbones last year for a project I was working on (then found they would not fit because of the 9mm ends) so I popped one in and I'm ready for another bash session tomorrow.

[Monsterbrad]

Mine is back together again got the new tranny after the screw came out of the one gear in the tranny and smoked the stock tranny case and spur gear.
Should be good now
Have any of you had problems with the tranny
my 25 never had any issues for 4 gallons
This new truck broke before a gallon!
Kinda pissed off
but its fixed :)

[Duster_360]

CR - I can find carbon or alum shoes from mugen - haven't seen anything about composites?? Between the carbon and alum, one preferred over the other? Thanks

Monsterbrad - curious, did you open up the new trans and loctite that screw that came loose in the orig?

[CRSMP5]

carbon are composite.. i disliked aluminum.. for the cost the "carbon" was 100% better in bite and life.. but thats just my opinion...

[Duster_360]

Once again, many thanks, CR! I'll give the carbon shoes a go.

[Monsterbrad]

:D I am going to try the mugen aluminum shoes here real soon!
I'll let ya know how they work!
Also
I did not check the new tranny cause the screw that came out threads into a plastic gear so the only way of dealing with it would be put a little super glue on it but I am debating on tearing the tranny back out to do it!
Don't know yet
Just want to run the truck again

[CRSMP5]

hey mb.. ready to put some LCG tvps on it yet?? let me know.. need to free up some funds, my shipment of v3 tvps should be hear tomarrow.. ill even hand delever them to you if i get them tomarrow

[Monsterbrad]

I have no money right now
Just bought a new wheeler
But I would like to try them eventually

[Duster_360]

I just got my 4.6SS and was a little dismayed to see that all the seals on the box were broken. It was very tightly packed in another box (had to cut the other box open on one seam to get it out-it was that tight) and there was no way that shipping could have caused the seals to be broken.

I opened it up and the only thing that's been disturbed is the package with the diffs and trans. This bag was not sealed like the others, but folded over and stapled closed. It was obvious that someone had been in there since there were an extra set of staple holes. The wrapping on one of the diffs had also been disturbed.

So the ques I've got is there an obvious way to be sure these are the 4 spyder diffs without the trouble of taking it apart? The diff in ques is new - there's not a mark on it anywhere. Am I worrying about something I really don't need to be worried about?? Chalk it up to mail order and get on with the build?? Thanks

[CRSMP5]

IMo id look, does it have chrome dogbone cups is th eonly way i can think to say if somethign was taken or not.. all but the brake hex is supposed to be chrome..

[Duster_360]

Whew, the diff that was "disturbed" and the other both have chrome dog bone cups. Maybe I'm sweating over nothing - maybe it was borrowed and then replaced, but regardless, I've apparently got the right ones. Thanks, I'm breathing a little easier!

Believe me, I called that shop up and gave them an earful! The owner and his son run the place, but the son takes care of internet sales and mine started off on the internet. Hope I got sonny boy's fanny chewed on!

[Monsterbrad]

Ok does the Nova cooling head for the engine make it run that much cooler?
I hope it does!
:)

[Duster_360]

I put one on my Tmaxx and temps dropped from 290-300 to 240-250, so yeah, they work. It just ran hotter than I wanted to see it run - good smoke and all that, but with my big back yard (grass) and heavy throttle finger, it just ran hot. Doesn't any more though.

I won one last night off ebay (saved a few bucks - only bid) for my 4.6 too.

[CRSMP5]

http://i3.photobucket.com/albums/y77/regg151/Savage%20Racer/LCGTVPs.jpg
is a photo of regg's tvps, mine are still in shrink wrap, i have 3 sets to sell, 65 shipped...

[Duster_360]

Tell me a little more about them, I could be interested in a set - an earlier note of yours said they were LCG - that correct? How much lower? Are these stock length or are they also extended? If so, how much? How thick are they?

Who is Regg (besides the guy who made them, don't recognize the name)? Thanks

[doesgo]

We at Slap Ma Fro! Productions also have some lowered/extended Savage chassis plates available for immediate shipment. They're 3.2mm 6061 aluminum, the engine and tranny are a half-inch lower and the length is increased approximately a half-inch as well. They definitely can help strengthen a Savage as well as make it more stable and better-handling. $59.99/pair. doesgo@slapmafro.com

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/smftvp.jpg

And here's a shot of the chassis plates installed (with our screw kit :) ). The SMF logo is not on production versions of the plates.

http://www.2quicknovas.com/bruce/smftvp2.jpg

[CRSMP5]

regg is one of the body painters i know.. his stuff is all over the web..

the info post of what pb had posted on savageracer

- The front of the truck is lengthened 6.5mm (user must now install a rear center dog bone up front because of the increase in length - not included.)
- The center point of the transmission is lowered 12mm.
- The engine/tranny combo has been designed in such a way to allow the use of a roto-start even at the 12mm lowering.
- Almost no material removal for the front cross brace and 1/16th of a inch of material removal for the rear engine mount cross brace.
- TVP's are abrasive cut from 6061-T6 Aluminum, 0.125" thick (about 25% thicker than stock TVP's and made of a harder alloy.)
- 2-Stage Hard Anodize Flat Black

Improvements in V3:

- Clearance cut for stock tank, allowed to sit approx 8mm lower.
- Added extra hole for throttle servo relocation mod (one stand-off can use a dual mount system, while other is still a single.)
- Improved locations of hole for stock equipment, moved roll bar hole forward by approx 1mm
- Increased height of cutout for large clutch-bell users (to allow use of stock engine mounting hardware - no longer interferes with TVP.)

These plates are perfect for the racer as well as the basher. Because the design allows the use of stock equipment, your able to use the plates with all the stock equipment. And when needed, you can do the mid tank location mod, throttle servo mod and be ready to race with a properly balanced setup.

http://www3.sympatico.ca/paul.both/EBMR.jpg

http://www3.sympatico.ca/paul.both/IMG_0082.JPG

for a idea of how much material needs removed...

As for price, basing it on the quantity of last run, will be $65 US + shipping (the cost may flucuate depending on quantity ordered). Add to that the cost of a rear-center drive shaft to be used up front and your ready to go. All that needs to be modified is the engine cross braces, they need material removed right in the center of the brace.

there is no installed photos yet.. people received their orders yesterday, including me.. :D also this has the holes and stuff nessasary to do a mid tank mod, all you need is some servo mounts, i use the sportwerks buggy ones as they are cheap and strong

its just i need to dump my shipment of them fast, need to regain my money tied up in them as i have a impending doom of lack of funds for a medical issue that i need to pay for..

[Duster_360]

Can't find that post - registered over there this am, but can't find it. WOuld like to have a set, just want to know more about them and their background.

CRSMP5 - YGPM

[Monsterbrad]

Those plates make that much of a difference?

[CRSMP5]

yes sir mb.. i would not race a savvy with out them.. actually you really really need to crive mine one day with the longarm set up.. you may sell lsp

duster you got 2pms.. aka link to post and reply..

[Duster_360]

I'm putting together my 4.6 and started to look at the tires that come with it (not bad, Dirt Bonz) and noted there was a heck of a wobble. I always assemble and look for wobble before I glue. Couldn't get rid of the wobble, so I pulled the liner out and it's one of those straight pieces of foam thats glued together to make it round and it was badly bunched at the glue joint. I checked all and they were all like that - badly bunched across the glue joint.

If you're going to use them, look at the glue joint before you glue them up.

[CRSMP5]

i suggest good foams, the ones you got are way too soft, the tire will roll very easily..

[Duster_360]

I know - the stockers will just be spares. I bought a set of velocity wheels, bow ties and prolines ultra firm (#6199) inserts. The stock inserts are in the trash - the white foams that came with the bow ties are going into the dirt bonz or are you saying they're too soft too? Feel another order coming on....

[CRSMP5]

hmmm let me think... (pause for a few hours)

from what i rember bonz are better on loose then bowties, so i think the proline foams from the bowties would work, the ties are better on hard packed surface so stiff foams in them, thi sway you will have a set up for dusty (bonz) and tacky (ties) conditions..

[Duster_360]

Thanks, thats great advice and gives me the best of both. There's a minimal weight diff - the velo wheel/bow tie combo weighs 208gr, while the dirtbonz/stock wheel weighs 220gr, less than 2oz for the set. The std proline liner (white foam) is actually 4gr lighter than the softer HPI liner, believe it or not.

[Duster_360]

Am I the only one missing any documentation for steps 40, and 41? This has got to be how to connect the drag link on the strg to the knuckles. I think everything else seems/is covered. Guess I'll be calling HPI soon as they get back from lunch to see what gives.

Okay, they're mis-numbered! And what I thought were just turnbuckles are the connections between the knuckles and the drag link, so never mind, my bad!!

[CRSMP5]

<---did no teven use instructions to build mine, but has 25ss instructions with all kinds of extra papers thrown infor corrections.. not seen the new 4.6ss book yet

[Duster_360]

Sorry, my dumb butt just wasn't thinking. My 4.6 manual is mis-numbered - there are two set of steps 42 and 43, instead of having a 40 and 41. The pages in the manual don't skip which should have been my 1st clue to look harder.

There were some pcs with the upper and lower arms that I thought were prob the connecting pcs from the drag link to the strg knuckle. I kept looking for them and then when I paid attention, realized what I thought were turnbuckles were the connecting pcs I thought were missing in the missing steps. Those other pcs are not ued by the 4.6.

I've got all the sub assemblies finished. I need to make the clearance in the places you mentioned for the drives for those LCG TVPs and get what should be my last parts order.

[Monsterbrad]

Still need a new spur gear then re assembly with the Mach in place!

[Tim'sLosi]

WooHoo! Tower shipped my 4.6 today! That means I have to get my 25SS ready to sell. Can't wait to build a couple of new HPI trucks again. I bought one of the cheap NMT Racer's too.

[limon]

Hi i did the electric kits so far, am thinking about buying nitro monster truck kit.My dilema is to find out which one is good for me, I want it to be fast and difficult to brake.I need good stabilty as well.Also advice about most suitable kit. My choice will be beetween:
Kyosho Mad force
HPI Savage SS 4.6
Traxxas revo

[Duster_360]

Not familiar with the mad force, but the revo is not a kit - its completely built rtr. The 4.6 is a kit - only thing prebuilt are the F&R diffs and the trans.

You'll get more feedback if this was posted in the MT section of the general forums. This is a thread for the 4.6SS.

[Monsterbrad]

Mine is ready!
Just have to bolt up the wheels and try it out for later today!!!!!!
Hope this works better this time as the first time was ok but the tranny got trashed the first 2 quarts!
just finished things a few minutes ago for later today!
I am still running the Mach in it
the 28 is going in the LSP!

[Duster_360]

I'm slowly getting mine together. I'm going to use an Ofna vented CB with Mugen carbon shoes and springs to hopefully avoid heating issues that hve melted some spurs.

Looking at the Mugen shoes - the spring rides closer to one side than the stock shoes/springs which ride in the center of the shoes. Do I need to get the Mugen engine nut also, so the "slot" where the springs catch will be right or will the HPI provided engine nut work? Looks like the springs will be offset relative to the HPI engine nut - I trial fitted one shoe and it will catch, but its at an angle, its not straight and I'm not sure if thats workable??

[RespirologyRC]

Can anyone tell me how good or bad are the Dirt Bonz tires? I am interested in buying a set but am not sure if they will work for my application. I will be using them on clay as well as grass (baseball field bashing), and am concerned that because the treads are tiny that they will not hookup so well on the grass

[Monsterbrad]

Mine is going on ebay!
So if anybody wants it let me know.
I am going to sell it with the Mach engine that is in it now!
I am asking 200 with everything except radio.
that includes the servo's!
all it needs is a reciever

[CRSMP5]

mb call me..

the bonz are great.. if stock foams a bit on th esoft side though.. dont worry about the grass.. should shread it, but if your planning on running in the grass, gear it down, the stock gearing will make it overheat and work the clutch way too much..

never had a issue with mugen shoes/springs on stock savage set up.. p.s. they are also offset with hpi ones on the flywheel nut..

[Duster_360]

Thanks - didn't realize the HPI ones would also have the offset in springs. I've gone ahead and got it ready to install - when I have the time, I'm back at work.... again.

[Dinky]

does anyone know who makes the nitro star k4.6 for hpi?

[CRSMP5]

i say who ever makes the hyper 21 8 port makes the k4.6 alot of the internal designs, pull start, and the block (have to look at the new small block hypers) all give it away IMO..

mb's is sold to ME!!!!

since i now have a unmodded savvy to put tvps on ill get photo instruction set made up after i pick her up sunday in person.. thanks MB..

[thedarkness]

steve pond posted on the first page he thinks they are made by STS, who also has the same fan type thing as the hyper .21.Mabey STS makes hyper engines as well.

[CRSMP5]

mb i got a 3 speed today.. will be in my savvy for you to try out sunday.. it was the parts version for 59$..

[Duster_360]

I'll ask it here as well - should I open up the pre-built 2 spd in the 4.6 kit and inspect it? I'm not even sure what I'd be looking for - guess that same pin MB had back out on him?

[CRSMP5]

i never trust hpis quality control.. so yep take her apart..

[Tim'sLosi]

Anyone running the Ti shafts and gears in their trans? Is it worth it or should I go for the 3 speed instead? With the torque of the 4.6 I am guessing 10% higher top speed is more worth the money. Opinions?
Thanks,
Tim

[CRSMP5]

ive seen hb's ti shafts break in the savvy..

i still need to test out my 3 speed.. but was unhappy with the fact the "kit version" i got did not fit my tranny case.. as soon as the mainshaft (one slipper goes onto) was installed and tranny case tightened down it locked it up.. i had to machine the new small 3rd speed gear down to give me enough tolerance to spin freely.. only had to take it apart 10 times.. i could not remove any more material off the plastic spacer then i did else the gears would clash on eachother so the shimming/backlash of the 3 speed was important on the main shaft..

[Duster_360]

You mean the kit version of the 3 speed comes without an external case??

Whoa, that's cheap! All the trouble about getting 2nd adj right and now coming without a case that will fit w/o modding, seems like its not worth it!

I went and looked at the kit on tower and answered the q myself - no case included. Was there any mention of poss fitting probs in the insructions - I know you don't look at intructions, but does HPI make any comment about what case they want the 3 spd installed in? Tower has a case recommended in the ad for the 3 spd, wonder if that is diff that the one you used?

[CRSMP5]

yes the kit is not put together and reuses some parts of your stock tranny.. but costs 30$ less.. i hate to see how hacked up a prebuilt one is as like i said if the backlash is not right the gears hit improperly.. god i love hpi's "quality" on some of this stuff..

[Tim'sLosi]

Well, I bought a prebuilt one. I will tear it down to make sure it is built right. What is the deal with this pin that tears up the trans? Is there a post about it you could guide me to?

[Duster_360]

The pin was actually a screw in a stock 2 spd that came with a new 4.6. Monsterbrad's prob surfaced a few pages back and all we ever saw was the following quote -

"Mine is back together again got the new tranny after the screw came out of the one gear in the tranny and smoked the stock tranny case and spur gear.
Should be good now"

Looking at pg 18, there are 2 screws there that HPI doesn't call for loctiting as well as 2 screwed pins in step 16 (like a diff cup pin), then there's another pin that they do call for loctiting in step 18 on the next page. That kind narrows it down as to what can unscrew and mess up. I plan on making sure they all get loctited and then just put it back together.

[Tim'sLosi]

Sounds like a plan. I am NOT gonna spend $60 on a trans and have it fail because of no loctite. I thought these trucks were hard to work on (haven't had my 25SS apart) but from the looks of the 3-spd instructions it breaks down pretty quickly.

[doesgo]

They're not tough to work on, in my opinion, just harder to access some components compared to other vehicles, mostly the diffs.

[CRSMP5]

agreed.. i think its easy to take apart..

[Duster_360]

Guess I've finally had some time off - have finished adding the brace under the radio box - I used FH M4x12s and countersunk them thru the handle, turned out nice and clean and has a super sturdy feel to it when you tighten them down.

Looking at the way these braces lay out, considering adding one more brace to complete a braced box on the front end like on the rear. Rear end has the engine's torque to contend with and the front has front end impacts to handle. The tank mod adds one up here, but I don't want to go that route for now and its farther fwd and higher - not much of a boxed structure. Those slotted holes in front of the bottom of the handle which would put brace above the front dog bone would take about 15sec to enlarge at the end of the slot for M4x10 for another brace. Interfere with anything you know of or is there a better way to go?

[CRSMP5]

ive never added one in that area so i cannot say.. the slotted holes are for servo on the pip eside and zip tie for batt on the tank side.. just make sure a brace in that area does not get in teh way of the servo horn on the steering servo

[Duster_360]

Additional brace would behind strg linkage and below - shouldn't interfere. There's about 8" along bottom of chassis that has no additional support. Ther's just 2 small BH M3x10 screws that thread into trans (plastic). Seems to me this is now potential weak area.

More ideal available location would be to do same thing with the empty hole in the rollbar as with the one behind radio box. Not sure if there is enough TVP in that area. There's better locations for potential brace, but no holes avail there -under front drive cup on trans . Seems to be plenty of room. Could also provide 2 support points for center skid.

Maybe overkill - but, heck a lot of whats been added may be overkill.

What do you do for a center skid anyway? I'm guessing chassis is longer here?

[CRSMP5]

well chassis shape does not allow for normal skids to fit.. i do not run them, i have a thing for lubing up my center diff cups with a wax lube called whitelightning thats sold in most bike shops.. it stops all wear on the center cups most have issues with..

if i was to do a center skid, i would use 2 engine braces, drill 4 new 4mm holes in its lower tvp area that work like skiis.. then i would take a piece of lexan and make 4 holes to screw them to the braces.. this way as it gets scratched i can change it, i can paint it and all kinds of things like that.. as you see the ski area is pretty low vs the brake rotors and such, it was designed that way so a skid would not be needed..

also something you may have not thought of.. they sell a aluminum cross brace for the lower skids.. if you relocated the batt, aka stick pack to the one side of the tvp, you could run the additional brace thru the original batt area of the radio box.. but in a way i think its overkill.. LOL.. i was after making the roll bar solid which as you saw makes it real sturty feeling...

my roll bar has a bend at the top of the tvp where i crushed it down and it curled out but all the screws remained intact.. i did that when i had my hand fabbed set that i was testing when this came to design.. ever since i did that i wanted that brace there for that reason..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v406/CRSMP5/production2tvps/tvps012.jpg

with out the brace there that would have pulled th ebolts from teh tranny/radio box or broken them for sure..

[Bunsincunsin]

Hey, I just got the 4.6ss kit and was wondering how to adjust the two speed to shift. Do I set it to come on earlier or later?
Thanks

[RenHoek]

The factory shift point is supposed to be 4.5 turns out from fully tight. Outta the box, mine was set a lot farther out (around 7 turns), so it always started in 2nd gear. Didn't realize it until I noticed it wasn't shifting. I dialed it back in all the way and reset it to 4.5 turns out and it's been happy ever after.

You'll have to tweak it either side of 4.5 to get it to shift where you want, but that's a good starting point. CW delays the shift point (higer RPM), CCW causes it to shift sooner.

-RenHoek

[Bunsincunsin]

Alright I'll try that, thanks for the info.

[Duster_360]

CR- now it's really obvious my chassis is extended since shell won't fit. If the holes hadn't been drilled, obviously wouldn't be prob, but the holes are drilled, they're large and drilling additional so close will just result in a very large elongated hole the 1st time the shell takes a hit.

Are there any other body mts I can use that'll let me use the stock shell/holes?? Or just suck it up and buy a new shell? Thanks

[CRSMP5]

honestly.. my rear mount bent at the shock tower an dall lined up well.. :) you could hold th eshock tower in place and bend it...

[Bunsincunsin]

About setting the two speed, where is the part where you put the allen wrench in? :confused: I know that you put it into one of the holes of the transmission box but how do you know where the allen wrench screw is?

[PCC]

What I do is to hold the truck in a way that the pipe-side tires are on the ground while the other side is up in the air. With the engine off, pull the rubber cover and look in the hole. Turn the spur gear until you see the slot in the gear inside then hold the spur gear there. Now, rotate the tires forwards until you see the hole for the set screw, ignore the first one and adjust the second one.

My two-speed was at around 1.75 turns out before it would shift right. Any looser and it would shift off the line. Any tighter and it would either never shift or take forever to shift. Then again, I'm running a ported Picco .26.

[CRSMP5]

i fyou have it shift hard it will destroy 2nd gear.. i prefer to have it stuck in 2nd off the line with anything more then a 25

[Bunsincunsin]

Thanks again for the info guys, I'll try the tips.

[Duster_360]

Anybody aware of a piston problem thats going on with the 4.6 and just what it is and what HPI's doing about it?