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kelleysislander
01-28-2005, 02:43 PM
Y'all,

I just bought this model from a seller on eBay and I plan to convert it to RC.
The model is 35-1/2" by 10" beam, don't know the weight yet, but it is hollow. I want to power it with twin counter-rotating motors. I want the thing to plane off and be capable of independently reversing either motor. I have 2 modified Ace esc's (ET1210), made for up to 12 volts @10 amps. I added a couple of extra mosfets each to the outside of the metal case so it can handle a bit more power. I'm an experienced modeler, so I can handle the mechanics of the conversion, but I need some advice and recommendations on the motors and running hardware. I use AstroFlights for just about everything I do, but for this project I'd like to try some of the cheaper can motors and some of the lighter tackle for running it. I've looked at Dumas Products running gear and it is so expensive that I am looking for alternative. What are your recommendations on motors and running gear? I think all I need are a couple of $15.00 motors and a decent shaft/stuffing box/under-hull strut combination. I'll make the rudders. Any ideas??? Thanks, bk

Hydro Junkie
01-29-2005, 02:44 AM
I would try Fuller's Fast Electrics and see what they have.

vett
02-06-2005, 11:31 AM
I have bought a couple of different size motors from taterbug39 on ebay from 500's to 970'S they are cheap and powerful. here ais one of his ads for 600's that might be good for you http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&category=2564&item=5953744076&rd=1
I was thinking of doing the same thing. Is this the boat from rfowlerm3 on ebay? is it as nice as it looks?



I would try Fuller's Fast Electrics and see what they have.

kelleysislander
02-14-2005, 10:52 AM
I received the Riva Aquarama this past weekend, and have had a chance to "review" it for the purpose of converting it to RC. Some sellers on eBay had stated that the boat was "museum quality", a claim that they should not be making. When I was growing up, I had a neighbor who scratch-built boats and then donated them to the Great Lakes Historical Society. One he made was the steam powered side-wheeler "Ottawa", about 36" long, similar in size to the Riva. It was valued at $8,000.00 - now that's museum quality!

This one is pretty much what you'd expect for a couple hundred bucks. Some sellers stated that it was scratch-built, taking hundreds of hours in the building. That's not true either. My initial impression of the boat is that it is definitely a "factory" boat made from laser-cut parts, assembled by Asian kit builders.

My initial impression was favorable. The boat weighs just under 5 lbs, so it won't be winning any races, but it is good and solid, and has plenty of freeboard to spare, so it won't be a problem adding the running gear and batteries. It looks great up close and even better at a distance, where it looks like the real thing. All in all, a darn good shortcut, saving me tons of time yet still allowing a beautiful result.

Access to the interior is made by cutting through the 2 floor panels in the fore and aft compartments to reveal the interior. The interior is coated with epoxy, not for RC, but to keep the wood stable from moisture, shrinking, expanding, etc. This accounts for probably 35% of the boat's mass.

I initially plan on powering it with a single 18v, 700 size Johnson Motors power screwdriver motor I found while looking for the motors "taterbug39" was selling on eBay. The power source will be 12+ cells. The motor will be hooked up to a 1.56:1 gear reduction driving 2 counter-rotating shafts. The drivelines will be flex drives with through-hull struts, in the traditional inboard configuration. I'm looking to develop higher torque at the shaft so I can swing larger props for greater efficiency. Plus, the dual drive setup allows one to turn an even larger prop than if it were a single shaft setup. This initial setup should get me going, and after that it's a matter of speed vs. runtime for the final setup. I plan on adding some lifting strakes to the hull as well. The ESC I'll be using is rated at 30 amps continuous, so that will be a parameter also, but I'll have no problem keeping it under that.

I have a couple of other projects going, so it will be a little while before I actually get this one underway, but I will post pics as progress occurs. bk