OFNA CD3 PRO/RTR Thread v1.0

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Hello Everyone, I am making this thread for people who own the new CD3 cars from New CD3 (http://www.ofna.com/cd3prortr.html) and CD3 Pro (http://www.ofna.com/cd3pro.html)

I have seen the LD3 Board but this car is different as where the engine sits, where the exhaust is located and other parts. I have recently bought one about 3 weeks ago, and decided to get a thread started so we ofna boys can share tips with this new car. I will post pics of my car later....but these are from OFNA http://www.ofna.com/images/cd3-rtr-chassis-big.jpg http://www.ofna.com/images/cd3-rtr-topdown-big.jpg

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OK, I have the .12Force that came with my car. Iam looking for a new engine from either Fantom or O.S. adn I am confused about the crankshaft. I need to know what style of crank I have and what crank I need to use; threaded or SG? Also, I know my car came with a pull-start and side exhaust..can I fit a non pull-start on there with rears exhaust? Any Help would be greatly appreciated

[Oldnitro]

just found this thread for the CD3
I have been running the Pro version here in oz for bout 6 months and found it easy to drive
I run an RB turbo(rear exhaust) in mine and have had no troubles
i also fitted the alloy gear housing

[Oldnitro]

car all painted and ready for our national titles
didnt do too bad ,but must remember to charge my batteries before the finals :mad:

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I cant believe you kept that body. I used mine to practice cutting holes with my olfa. What exhaust are you using?

[Oldnitro]

the body was used for concourse
i used the pipe and manifold that come with the kitand later changed to an RB manifold and pipe
heres the body i raced with

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See, now that body looks awesome. Who makes that body? So RB makes manifold and pipes to fit our right side?

[Bishop]

I'm seriously overdue to get mine on the track, it's been ready for months now, but I just have not had the time or will to get out there...

At least Hong Nor have finally updated their site so it now shows the CD3, www.hongnor.com is suposed to be the offical site...

[Bishop]

Oh, and mine is the rtr pro version I supose, or just the standard really out of hong kong, it came with threaded shocks etc, and a Force .15 motor, but no remote gear, I picked up a new 3PM when I got mine.
I like the car, it's really well built and designed, with average quality, gear alignment is a little rough, but it's hard to find to much to fault when you consider how cheap it is and what you get for the money.

[Oldnitro]

See, now that body looks awesome. Who makes that body? So RB makes manifold and pipes to fit our right side?
the body is a Hong Nor 300m
and RB do make the pipes and manifolds for the R/H side,they also fit the Kyosho FW05 parts numbers are Tuned Pipe1751-401K and Manifold 1751-01K
check out http://www.focusrc.com

[Oldnitro]

See, now that body looks awesome. Who makes that body? So RB makes manifold and pipes to fit our right side?
the body is a Hong Nor Chrysler 300m
and RB do make the pipes and manifolds for the R/H side,they also fit the Kyosho FW05 parts numbers are Tuned Pipe1751-401K and Manifold 1751-01K
check out http://www.focusrc.com

[spenzalii]

Vantage RC also makes a left exhaust pipe for it (goes good with the carbon fiber look), as does RD Logics

[vegasdrift]

What's the difference between the pro rtr and sport rtr?
Thanks

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Thanks for telling me about the Vantage Pipe! I havent checked their site in a while so I didnt know about the pipe. I have actually ordered a new pipe already for my Force .12. I ended up getting the RD Logics Turbo off of ebay brand new for $57 after shipping/handling, insurance, etc. By the way, how come my car didnt come with the "Red Head"? I got it from towerhobbies. Anyway, i will post a pic of my CD3 soon, I have to put on the Yokomo rims, the new pipe and HPI BMW GTR body (metallic red). I guess I'll have to get one of those vantage pipes or rb's when I order my OFNA/Picco .12 rear exhaust! Or the........... :eek: TZ :D

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What's the difference between the pro rtr and sport rtr?
Thanks

I believe the only difference *what towerhobbies says* is that the pro comes with a OFNA Bag and a starter box. Just check towerhobbies though and pick either and at the bottom it will show you a comparison/difference of the two.

[McKB]

By the way, how come my car didnt come with the "Red Head"? I got it from towerhobbies.
The red head is the name given to the force 12

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The red head is the name given to the force 12

Thanks for telling me that but in every pic for the CD3 like the one above and and off the website the engine has a red head. I didn't get that.. I guess it really doesnt matter though..The Picco is coming!!!!

[McKB]

Thanks for telling me that but in every pic for the CD3 like the one above and and off the website the engine has a red head. I didn't get that.. I guess it really doesnt matter though..The Picco is coming!!!!

Hmm, maybe they updated the force 12, what color is the head?

[vegasdrift]

Around how fast does the car go with the force .12? Is it a usable motor for weekend racing?
So in order to get all the goodies I'd have to buy the pro kit right?

[McKB]

The force will probobly go low 40's maxed out. I wouldn't suggest it for weekend racing, you'd have a decent set-up if you went with the pro kit and the ofna/picco ROAR legal. Or outlaw if you club allows it. I personally use the OFNA/Picco and i have no complaints.

[vegasdrift]

Low 40s isn't very fast. There's a few factory drivers around here so I'd need to be hitting 55 at least. How fast does the picco go? How much better is the pro kit over the pro rtr? And lastly, is there a better car to race with over the cd3?

[McKB]

The picco would reach 55. I believe the difference in the pro to the standard kit is the strength of a lot of the parts such as the a-arms, radio tray(i think its graphite on the pro), the Clutch is way better on the pro KIT. As for better cars there are some good ones out there. The Kyosho FW-05RR is a very similar set-up and from what i hear is a great kit. If you want belts go for the mtx-3, serpent 710, HPI R40. They're all high end touring cars. But remember you also pay a lot more for these cars. The CD-3 seems to have the biggest bang for the buck to me.

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I hope some carbon parts start coming out soon for my car. Even some titanium but maybe Im just a little impatient so I'll try to wait.

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OK, I lied I told ya'll I was going to get the OFNA/Picco from nitro house. The only reason is because they stopped making the 7 port...but I found this 7Port Picco .12 (http://werksracing.com/product.do?sku=WRXP12R7) :D and here goes a pic..http://werksracing.com/photo.do?id=209 :D now how much of a difference besize price do you think I would notice. The stats on the 7port is 1.6HP 43,000 RPM Max and the 3port from OFNA is CLAIMED HP 1.39 RPM 36,000, mph wise and any other. The Price of each are 234.99 - 109.99. Remember I'm just parking lot racing, maybe sometime will go to the hobby shop but there is no limitiations there so..would I be better off getting a .15 or .18? I really want my engine to scream though I love RPM's :eek: :D

[vegasdrift]

The picco would reach 55. I believe the difference in the pro to the standard kit is the strength of a lot of the parts such as the a-arms, radio tray(i think its graphite on the pro), the Clutch is way better on the pro KIT. As for better cars there are some good ones out there. The Kyosho FW-05RR is a very similar set-up and from what i hear is a great kit. If you want belts go for the mtx-3, serpent 710, HPI R40. They're all high end touring cars. But remember you also pay a lot more for these cars. The CD-3 seems to have the biggest bang for the buck to me.
How does the cd3 pro kit compare to the r40 & FT NTC3. These 3 cars are the ones I'm considering since they can all be bought for $260-$300.( the r40 being the cheapest)

[McKB]

Envelope. Hey if power and speed is what you want and you have the cash i'd say go for the 7port. BUt while you're willing to spend money in that price range check these engines out as well.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGGM0&P=0

http://www.nitrohouse.com/eng,_nova_rossi.htm#NovaRossi%20.21%20Off-Road%20Engines

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXEDA6&P=0

I've ran a nova rossi .21 engine in my 1/8 buggy and to this day it's still the best engine i've ever used. As for the .15 and .18's im sure you could find a few that would work of course with that much power it would be difficult to keep the car under control sometimes since thats a lot of power going to the wheels.

Vegasdrift. I think if you were to buy any of those 3 cars you'd be impressed with them. They are all competitive chassis so you'd probly be happy with either one of them. The part support for those cars are probly quite good as well so it's really up to you. THe CD-3 does come with a few extras with it compared to the r40 and ntc3, like a body, tires (they're not the greatest but they work for break-in) and a pipe i believe. i think the NTC3 comes with a pipe since its a unique style.

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Thanks for telling me about those engines man. I have been looking for engines off towerhobbies because of the sales/coupons they got. What kind of speed do ya think I could get out of one those engines..mph wise?

[McKB]

I honestly couldnt tell you, I've never used any of those engines, I have had a Nova rossi for my buggy and it screamed. It was my favorite engine.

You'd probly see a bit of improvement in Top speed, but i think that the biggest diference would be in acceleration.

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OK, I just got my RD Logics Turbo II one piece in. It doesnt fit to well either, the RD manifold http://www.rdlogics.com/mas_assets/full/61235S.jpg brings the pipe to close to the body and it makes the pipe longer so now it hits the wheel. It actually fits better with the ofna manifold on there but you have to adjust just right in the pipe. I will update later

[McKB]

Hmmm, nice pipe though. I was thinking about an RD, let me know if you notice a difference.

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OK, so I didnt put the RD Logics pipe on because it was to much trouble so I will be ordering the OFNA Mega R #10072 from nitrohouse when I get off of work tonight. I wish I could order it now but my job wont let me go to nitrohouse for some reason, some security feature because it catergorized as weapons. Hopefully Ill get it by Friday or Saturday and Ill let you guys know

[CurveTracer]

I have owned a couple of cars over the years. A 1/8 RC500, and a couple of Kyosho GTR (240mm wide) 1/10 acale racers. I want to get into 1/10 nitro sedan racing now that there is a track in my area. After surveying all of the Sedans available I close the CD3 as the best for me. My 12 and 9 year old sons are also interested in Sedan racing. I don't want to stock/maintain different brands of cars. I am considering the CD3 pro for myself and the CD3 RTRs for both my sons. Are these cars pretty rugged or do items like suspension arms break frequently?.
I think the RTR .12 Red head engine has more than enough power for beginners.
What do you think??

[McKB]

I think you'd like the CD-3 Pro. I run an LD3 Pro with the Picco .12 ROAR in it. All the suspension is the same on the two cars. I've yet to break a Pro Arm, the only reason i've had to replace them is when i break a pivot ball off inside them. I heard the original arms on the LD-3 were a bit weak, and im not sure if they come with the CD-3 rtr. I bash and race my LD3 and it's unreal some of the hits i've taken with that thing and broken nothing. I've broken more body posts from cartwheeling off a corner button then parts :)

[spenzalii]

The CD3/LD3 are some very solid platforms, I must say. The redhead is good for a beginner, but it's somewhat akin to having a 540 can motor in your first electric car: it will do for about 10 minutes, then you have to get more speed. But for two children just getting started, they will be fine. I still run my LD3 and most likely will pick up the CD3 sometime mid season.

[McKB]

It's to bad the LD3 didnt catch on better here. The other day i was racing all NTC3's and everyone had the sirio evo 2 in them and my picco had equal low end, and i was passing them on the strait. I was surprised how well it did. The car also responded very well to changes in the set-up. Since it's the same suspension as the CD-3 i think it would do well also.

P.S. Spenz what kind of gears do you run in your LD3 i read about your gear mesh incident on RCtech (LethbridgeRC)

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So the Picco Roar from OFNA is a pretty good engine for 109.00? What manifold exhaust are you using? I was thinking about getting an engine soon because I still have the .12 Force. Maybe Ill wait for the EVO 3 to drop

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Quick Questions, do you guys know if 30mm foam rears will fit on the front or back of this car, 35mm? Also, wheels for the hpi super series tires for their 1/8 fit? Any wheel adapters will help? And where can I get some deep lip rims from? I bought rims from yokomo that has a 3mm lip but I want a lip like this...http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/gallery/2005/02/week2/DSC01903m.jpg http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/gallery/2005/02/week2/DSC01893m.jpg http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/gallery/2005/02/week2/DSC01898m.jpg http://www.hpiracing.com/graphics/gallery/2005/02/week2/DSC01902m.jpg

Those tires look wide is that a 1/8 scale? :confused:

[McKB]

the 30 mm tires wont fit on the front, but i they will on the back. You can't realy do anything wider the 26's on the front. Those are tamiya deep 5-spoke rims here's a link:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGL04&P=7
here's a slick for these ones:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGK22&P=M
or the ones in the picture:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM981&P=7
OR any tire with the same measurements

and for the front.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGL03&P=7

and the tires
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM988&P=7

and any 24 mm tire will fit

*might wanna check measurements i think they're the right ones though, and the car is 1/10th scale :)

[McKB]

So the Picco Roar from OFNA is a pretty good engine for 109.00? What manifold exhaust are you using? I was thinking about getting an engine soon because I still have the .12 Force. Maybe Ill wait for the EVO 3 to drop
Yes the picco is a great engine, I coudn't believe i was keeping up to sirio evo 2's. I run the ld3 with the one piece pipe, and it sounds tame, but dont be fooled by the sound. I found it had plenty of power when i needed it, enough spin out on demand if i punched it. I'd say it's definately a good bang for the buck!

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the 30 mm tires wont fit on the front, but i they will on the back. You can't realy do anything wider the 26's on the front. Those are tamiya deep 5-spoke rims here's a link:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGL04&P=7
here's a slick for these ones:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGK22&P=M
or the ones in the picture:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM981&P=7
OR any tire with the same measurements

and for the front.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGL03&P=7

and the tires
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXM988&P=7

and any 24 mm tire will fit

*might wanna check measurements i think they're the right ones though, and the car is 1/10th scale :)


Thanks for all the help guys! :D

[McKB]

No prob, i wanna see pics if you end up buying those rims ;)

[BGMOTORSPORTS70]

Hey.I bought a CD3 pro rtr.Manly for what you get for the price and no one else runs one.I was wondering if anybody had any good set ups for it.I race at HobbyTown in the parking lot.I put a nova rossi .12 t5 motor on mine.I cant get the rear end to hook up.I ve got plenty of steering.Ive ran NTC3 before and TC3s before.Ive been racing for 5 years off and on.Ive got a buddy that has a FW05 that runs really good.I havent had a lot of time to play with the set up.I can use any help.

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Hey.I bought a CD3 pro rtr.Manly for what you get for the price and no one else runs one.I was wondering if anybody had any good set ups for it.I race at HobbyTown in the parking lot.I put a nova rossi .12 t5 motor on mine.I cant get the rear end to hook up.I ve got plenty of steering.Ive ran NTC3 before and TC3s before.Ive been racing for 5 years off and on.Ive got a buddy that has a FW05 that runs really good.I havent had a lot of time to play with the set up.I can use any help.

What HobbyTown do you go to? Where are you from?

[McKB]

Try a Softer spring on the back, and a 35-37 shore foam. What's you set-up now? and what kind of surface are you running on? probobly could help you more if we knew that

[BGMOTORSPORTS70]

Im the manager of the one in newport news va.Ive got the yellow springs in the rear.I went to 50 wt oil in the rear and it seem to help.camber is at 2 the toe is at 3.the surface is sum what smooth.Ok traction.I had 35 shore on the rear.I put 30 shore on the rear and it helped alot.Ive got the upper mount in the middle now.Havent tried it yet.It was in the bottom hole.I put the bottom of the shock in the closes hole.Its getting better.Ill try it again tomorrow.

[McKB]

I run my camber about 1 and it seems work good when traction isn't very good.

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Here goes some pics of the CD3, this is just a testor body for flat black paint and I need to l trim the posts.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55380&stc=1

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55381&stc=1

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=55379&stc=1

[McKB]

Sweet, looks awesome.

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What do you guys think of the Hyper .12 PS Hyper .12 (http://www.ofna.com/eng-hyper12.html) that comes in the RTR GPX4? It says it comes with 1.4hp and I think its only 99.99. But for $10 more you can get the ofna/picco roar Picco Roar (http://www.ofna.com/eng-picco-roar.html) which has 1.39hp but comes in side exhaust and rear. What do you guys think? When they tested the GPX4 in rcdriver it did pretty well. It topped out at 47mph. I need to go read more about though when I get home

[McKB]

Get the picco.

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Hey, I still have the stock radio and was wandering if I really needed to upgrade to a fm. All I really do is bash but I am racing at Hobbytown this Sat. in the novice class. I know the hobby guy told me that I need one to get rid of the lag when I first start going. But remember I'm still running the .12 Force!

O' I'm not sure how many laps these guys run but they do it all running on the same tank of gas...? How, How can I conserve gas to keep going?

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It's me again and I had another question. For those of you with the pro version that comes with the carbon radio tray, I was told that it would fit my CD3 Pro RTR but as you can see in the pic they are different. http://www.ofna.com/images/cd3-pro-topdown-big.jpg http://www.ofna.com/images/cd3-rtr-topdown-big.jpg I know there is a difference but I cant just pinpoint it, any help would be appreciated of how to fit that on my RTR

[Oldnitro]

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the only difference between the pro top plate and RTR is the battery tray
the Pro battery needs to be 5 AAA's which go in the space behind the receiver box,servos mount in the same location and the receiver mounts in the sealed box
I will takes some pics of mine and post them if you want

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envelope
the only difference between the pro top plate and RTR is the battery tray
the Pro battery needs to be 5 AAA's which go in the space behind the receiver box,servos mount in the same location and the receiver mounts in the sealed box
I will takes some pics of mine and post them if you want

Thanks for telling me this man. Could you please post some pics though? Thanks

[Oldnitro]

here is the battery and holder

[Oldnitro]

the battery fits behind the receiver box

[Oldnitro]

this is from underneath,

[Oldnitro]

Also one thing we have found here in Oz due to the high summer temps we run in the motors started running hot and leaning out with the std air filter.
to fix the problem i have fitted (and all other CD3 drivers)an off road filter

[CurveTracer]

Yea,
I have always wondered about the engines packaged to have the air filters blocking the air flow to the cylinder head cooling fins. I have used these successfully on some of my older cars. Too bad the angles arn't a little shallower to allow maximum exposure of the fins to the airflow.
Are you guys cutting air holes in the front windshield?, and removing the side windows on both left and right side. How about 2/3 of the rear window?

[Oldnitro]

CurveTracer
Yea the rules we run under are IFMAR with sub regs for Australia
50% front window plus 50mm refueling hole Not to joined
driver and passenger front windows
and as much of the rear window as you can

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this is from underneath,

Hey, is that battery a hump pack? And could you possibly give me the part # for that battery tray or would it come with the carbon radio tray?

[Oldnitro]

The battery holder comes with the top tray
the battery pack is home made,using 5x900 mimh mAh AAA batteries,3 on the bottom and 2 on top
hope this helps

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The battery holder comes with the top tray
the battery pack is home made,using 5x900 mimh mAh AAA batteries,3 on the bottom and 2 on top
hope this helps

Thanks

[CurveTracer]

We just received a new CD3 RTR for my son yesterday. What a nice packaged car! I will agree the body is a little thin, but bodies are like glow plugs and tires, ... they get used up and replaced.
We fired up the engine this evening and two tanks of idle running and heat cycling, we made two tank fulls of rich runs un and down the driveway. I think the Force 12 has more than enough power for him. Driving predictably is going to be the challenge. But we all have to learn. He will be at the track this Sunday.
I do have one question, the car was shipped with the long Ofna glow plugs that have two copper washers. Are these a better glow plug than the short versions?? It seems that keeping track of the two washers is going to be difficult.

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We just received a new CD3 RTR for my son yesterday. What a nice packaged car! I will agree the body is a little thin, but bodies are like glow plugs and tires, ... they get used up and replaced.
We fired up the engine this evening and two tanks of idle running and heat cycling, we made two tank fulls of rich runs un and down the driveway. I think the Force 12 has more than enough power for him. Driving predictably is going to be the challenge. But we all have to learn. He will be at the track this Sunday.
I do have one question, the car was shipped with the long Ofna glow plugs that have two copper washers. Are these a better glow plug than the short versions?? It seems that keeping track of the two washers is going to be difficult.

Actually, I just purchased a O.S. plug with one washer and it runs great. It did cost a little more but it's been lasting a long time now and still firing up

[envelope]

http://www.dogboneind.com/

I found this website and I think they are talking about the OFNA GPX4. Its called the HOBAO and I know Hong-Nor makes ofna, maybe that how you say it over there :confused: but check it out looks interesting.

[CurveTracer]

What caster setting is best for the front of the CD3??

[envelope]

I've read that I need a SG style crank on the CD3's how would I or would I be able to fit a threaded crank like the fantom engines?

[envelope]

OK, I got this from the OFNA website:

OFNA Stays On Top Down Under! 1 May 2005
With so many huge wins here in the States you knew we would take our skills abroad and start mopping up the competition.
The Top Gun 2.4 LeMans Race at the Penrith Track in Sydney Australia was the scene for one of our hottest wins yet. After 2.4 hours of grueling laps, OFNA's top New Zealand Pilot Graham McDougal easily TQ'ed and then rolled his CD3 through the finish line with a commanding 56 Laps over the nearest competitor!! Oh, and did we mention.., Penrith Track's previous single lap record of 44 seconds was shattered by Graham who acheived the new track record of 33 seconds! This was all acheived during rainy weather, proving that Graham and the OFNA CD3 can handle the toughest competitors and the most adverse conditions without complaints.
Way to go Graham!

[brc358]

How does the cd3 pro kit compare to the r40 & FT NTC3. These 3 cars are the ones I'm considering since they can all be bought for $260-$300.( the r40 being the cheapest)
I have a C D 3 and installed an O S 18 and gear upgrade. The car really screams now, and for the price, it can't be beat. If you are looking for something other than an Ofna, I also have 4 Yokomo G T 4s. One has an O S 18,14 tooth second gear, and high speed pully set, and I have not yet found another 10 scale car that can keep up with it. This car runs very strong against many 1/8 scale cars.I also have a Cen ct4 with gear change, and it is extremely fast also. But of the 9 10th scale cars that I have, I swear by the Yokomo with upgrades. The Ofna,even though is a great car, and with the OS 18 still can't compete with the Yokomo with the 18.I bought the CD3 rtr pro version,changed motors,gear set,battery pack, tuned pipe, and it is a very solid car.

[Oldnitro]

OK, I got this from the OFNA website:

OFNA Stays On Top Down Under! 1 May 2005
With so many huge wins here in the States you knew we would take our skills abroad and start mopping up the competition.
The Top Gun 2.4 LeMans Race at the Penrith Track in Sydney Australia was the scene for one of our hottest wins yet. After 2.4 hours of grueling laps, OFNA's top New Zealand Pilot Graham McDougal easily TQ'ed and then rolled his CD3 through the finish line with a commanding 56 Laps over the nearest competitor!! Oh, and did we mention.., Penrith Track's previous single lap record of 44 seconds was shattered by Graham who acheived the new track record of 33 seconds! This was all acheived during rainy weather, proving that Graham and the OFNA CD3 can handle the toughest competitors and the most adverse conditions without complaints.
Way to go Graham!
Envolope
I think you should read the report again, i was there and are freinds of the winners,Here is the real report from the OFNA site.oh and they were running a std V12 RB
The Top Gun Race at the Penrith Track in Sydney Australia was the scene for one of our hottest wins yet. The OFNA/Hongnor team consisting of Joseph Patane(manager/mechanic) ,Phillip Woodbury(driver), Mat Russel(driver), Johnathon Frued(driver) and David Patane(refueler), scored some impressive wins with the OFNA CD3. Phil Woodbury TQ'ed with a 18.6 sec lap but bettered that time with a 17.6 sec lap, and went on to win with an AMAZING 56 LAPS OVER THE NEAREST COMPETITOR!! Oh, and did we mention it was raining?
In the 2.4 Le Mans race Phil Woodbury is leading the pack and broke the track lap record of 14.00sec with a smokin' 13.6 sec!!
This should dispel any doubts that the OFNA/Hongnor Team equipped with the OFNA CD3 can handle the toughest competitors and the most adverse conditions.

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Envolope
I think you should read the report again, i was there and are freinds of the winners,Here is the real report from the OFNA site.oh and they were running a std V12 RB
The Top Gun Race at the Penrith Track in Sydney Australia was the scene for one of our hottest wins yet. The OFNA/Hongnor team consisting of Joseph Patane(manager/mechanic) ,Phillip Woodbury(driver), Mat Russel(driver), Johnathon Frued(driver) and David Patane(refueler), scored some impressive wins with the OFNA CD3. Phil Woodbury TQ'ed with a 18.6 sec lap but bettered that time with a 17.6 sec lap, and went on to win with an AMAZING 56 LAPS OVER THE NEAREST COMPETITOR!! Oh, and did we mention it was raining?
In the 2.4 Le Mans race Phil Woodbury is leading the pack and broke the track lap record of 14.00sec with a smokin' 13.6 sec!!
This should dispel any doubts that the OFNA/Hongnor Team equipped with the OFNA CD3 can handle the toughest competitors and the most adverse conditions.


Thanks Man, I sure didnt get all the info, I have been looking at that RB V12 to and now any doubts I had were answered. And it was standard not Rody tuned?

[Oldnitro]

no problems ,as a freind of the winning team i had to set the record straight
yes the motor was a standard V12 not a Rody and the car was a CD3 Pro
I been using RBs for about 5 years now and would not use anything else,Ive had Rody and Std RBs and had very few problems,all my fault i might add
The manager /mechanic is the oz importer for RB and the state distributor for Hong Nor(OFNA)
good luck with what ever motor you choose
how did you go with the batery pack?

[envelope]

no problems ,as a freind of the winning team i had to set the record straight
yes the motor was a standard V12 not a Rody and the car was a CD3 Pro
I been using RBs for about 5 years now and would not use anything else,Ive had Rody and Std RBs and had very few problems,all my fault i might add
The manager /mechanic is the oz importer for RB and the state distributor for Hong Nor(OFNA)
good luck with what ever motor you choose
how did you go with the batery pack?

Havent gotten it yet, been spending money on my computer now so.....O' how would you rate the standard RB V12....like how fast is it in person, how many ports 3 or 5 (Im guessing 3), Im only going to be racing at my lhs so nothing big, the track isnt even that big either so..

[Oldnitro]

i only use the 3 port as per our rules
the std V12 is a good motor but if you put in a turbo crank and head it really flyes depending on the gearing.we had one clocked at about 80kph (50mph) at the end of the straight which is about 70M long

[brc358]

I dropped an OS 18 into mine,and used the original pipe. Even without any gear change, the little car just screams now. Ofna does have gear upgrades that can be ordered. But with just the OScvx, I could not ask for more.I put on some good foam tires, and I am ripping up the track. Love the car.

[slowas]

Hi All
I just purchased a CD3 Pro from Tower - awaiting delivery
I'll be running a Novarossi LS15 1.8 hp on good netball court surface at Wyong
Can anyone help and email me a setup sheet ( camber,springs,toe, etc )
Any help much appreciated

[CurveTracer]

I set mine up like this:
Front: toe out 1.5 deg
camber - 1.5 deg
ride height 5 mm

Rear: toe in 1.8 deg
camber - 1.5 deg
ride height 5.8 mm

[CurveTracer]

Does anyone have experience with the one way diff on the CD3 Pro??

Mine seems ok for long sweeper curves but I can't seem to see a benefit on the tight twisty curves and switch backs. Plus the rear braking does not seem as effective as the front brakes of the front planetary diff.

[slowas]

I set mine up like this:
Front: toe out 1.5 deg
camber - 1.5 deg
ride height 5 mm

Rear: toe in 1.8 deg
camber - 1.5 deg
ride height 5.8 mm

Thanks CurveTracer

I'll give that set up a try :D :D :D

[slowas]

Does anyone have experience with the one way diff on the CD3 Pro??

Mine seems ok for long sweeper curves but I can't seem to see a benefit on the tight twisty curves and switch backs. Plus the rear braking does not seem as effective as the front brakes of the front planetary diff.


The importer tells me that a SOLID FRONT is the way to go on a tight track!
BUT
Ofna / Hong Nor don't produce one as yet
so I made my own
or use a normal diff - not a one way

Cheers

[CurveTracer]

When I squeeze the throttle for quick acceleration my car steers to the left slightly. If the steering is set straight with the trim, is this problem more suspension setting related?

[CurveTracer]

What shock setup is good for a track with medium grip?
Specifically oil weight with the yellow springs.

What is the best method of setting up the flat adjustable sway bars?

[1stGenCRXer]

I just purchased a CD3 Pro kit.

Any building tips that would be helpful?

I'm not new to RC, but this will be my first TC. I currently have several electric pan cars, 2 revos, 1 savage, 1 mayhem, and some vintage electrics in my stable, time for something new and different.

For the time being, I'll be using a TRX 2.5r that I have just sitting on the shelf to power it. The local races just run 1/10 touring outlaw, so I figure the little .15 that could will be a decent start.

Also, any suggestions on rubber tires/inserts? The local races are on a semi-smooth parking lot, and the LHS seems to stock a lot of HPI tires and inserts.

Can't wait to get my hands on the CD3, thanks in advance.

[CurveTracer]

I just completed my CD3 Pro kit last month. The build is pretty straight forward fowwloing the instructions. The manual identifies screws that neet thread locker. I also used some thread locker in the servo saver assembly.
I found the engine mounts to be difficult to set correctly and purchased the optional CNC aluminum partinstead. It is on the expensive side at $31 but works like a charm.
Check clearances for the starter box you intend to use before you begin assemblying parts on the chassis. This way if any clearancing can be performed before you attach parts to the chassis. I clearanced my chassis after the car was built so it is not a big issus, just a time saver.
Can't wait to get my hands on the CD3, thanks in advance.

[josh222]

i have a question, will the centax clutch on the CD Pro kit take a Threaded crank, i know most centax's do with an adapter piece

[1stGenCRXer]

For the centax clutch, you need a pilot shaft, standard threaded crank on whatever engine you plan to use.

You need the pilot shaft, because there's a thrust bearing that you must use to handle the outward pushing load on the clutch bell, and it needs to be held in by a bolt.

When I say standard threaded crank, I mean it can't be a Traxxas style. I know because I was planning to use a 2.5r I had sitting around collecting dust to get used to the car, but the centax clutch pilot nut will not thread on the crank.

[josh222]

I know that, here does this piece look like the one on the cd3 ?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKH4&P=7

here is the adapter piece for a threaded crank shaft, and i am hoping that the ofna one could be switch for it

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKH5&P=7 for threaded

[CurveTracer]

On the CD3 there are two methods of setting up ride height.
1. Using the set screw on the suspension arm
2. adjusting the threaded shock or adding spacers on plastic shocks.

Which method is best??

[1stGenCRXer]

I know that, here does this piece look like the one on the cd3 ?
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKH4&P=7yeah, that's the pilot nut for the clutch.here is the adapter piece for a threaded crank shaft, and i am hoping that the ofna one could be switch for it

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFKH5&P=7 for threadedHmm... I don't know. The R40 does use a centax clutch as well, so I don't see why it wouldn't work. On the CD3 there are two methods of setting up ride height.
1. Using the set screw on the suspension arm
2. adjusting the threaded shock or adding spacers on plastic shocks.

Which method is best?? Use the set screw to set your ride height, and the spring preload adjusters on the shock for their job, setting the spring preload.

[josh222]

the screws in the chassi are for ride hieght and droop

[1stGenCRXer]

Anybody have any rear diff gear mesh problems?

The screws didn't back out of the ring gear, but rather it seems like the spider gears found a place to rest in the diff cup where none of them would touch another gear. The result was a car with basically two one-way diffs under braking, meaning no brakes.

I really lucked out as the only thing damaged was a front body post.

Disassembling the rear diff, I found no apparent damage to the spider gears, but I used two clutch shim washers behind the spider gears, over top of the o-rings at the outdrives to tighten the spider gear mesh up when I put it back together. It also seems to have taken out ALL the notchiness the diff seemed to have originally.

Did I get a fluke, or does everyone shim the inside of their diff even though it's not addressed anywhere in the assembly instructions?

[Disman]

Can anyone tell me where I can find the 55 tooth spur gear the comes with the CD3 Pro, I have stripped mine and the instruction manual that came with the car only shows the part number for the CD3 RTR. The CD3 Pro kit and the CD3 Pro and the CD3 RTR have different gear ratios, the pro kit has 55T and 49T and the CD3 RTR has 42T and 38T.








Anybody have any rear diff gear mesh problems?

The screws didn't back out of the ring gear, but rather it seems like the spider gears found a place to rest in the diff cup where none of them would touch another gear. The result was a car with basically two one-way diffs under braking, meaning no brakes.

I really lucked out as the only thing damaged was a front body post.

Disassembling the rear diff, I found no apparent damage to the spider gears, but I used two clutch shim washers behind the spider gears, over top of the o-rings at the outdrives to tighten the spider gear mesh up when I put it back together. It also seems to have taken out ALL the notchiness the diff seemed to have originally.

Did I get a fluke, or does everyone shim the inside of their diff even though it's not addressed anywhere in the assembly instructions?

[1stGenCRXer]

If I'm understanding what you're saying, you'd have to change both of your spur gears for 1st and second to put a 55t spur in there, otherwise your gear mesh won't quite work out.

[Disman]

If I don't get the correct 55T gear I will have to change the 1st spur gear and the pinion gears.to have the correct mesh and the pitch is different too.

[1stGenCRXer]

I got ya now, misunderstood the question initially.

Might want to call up ofna, nitrohouse doesn't have an "add to cart" button for part# 38671, 0.8pitch 55t spur gear.

[Disman]

Thanks, 1st Gen. I plan on calling them tomorrow.

[1stGenCRXer]

As an update to my diff situation.

I noticed that the RTR manual shows installing a washer between the output spider gear and the o-ring inside the diff case, though the pro manual that came with my kit did not. [EDIT: correction, looking over my manual again, the exploded view does show a washer inside the diff case, though I over-looked it as they do not have any labels. Anyway, all is well now]

Just a heads up for everyone else then I guess, make sure that rear diff spider mesh is tight.

[xxrcbuggy]

Need some info. on how to use different lower arm holder ( 0, 1.5 & 2.5 degree) same degree or in combination like 0 & 1.5 so the arm is not II to ground. what would be the effect of arm nose up or nose down?

[CurveTracer]

Need some info. on how to use different lower arm holder ( 0, 1.5 & 2.5 degree) same degree or in combination like 0 & 1.5 so the arm is not II to ground. what would be the effect of arm nose up or nose down?

Though I have never experimented with any blocks besides the 0 deg, I think that with the suspension angled up you will would get high speed stability etc. With the suspension angled down you would get more corner turn in but sacrafice high speed steering stability.

[Saboteur]

I dropped an OS 18 into mine,and used the original pipe. Even without any gear change, the little car just screams now. Ofna does have gear upgrades that can be ordered. But with just the OScvx, I could not ask for more.I put on some good foam tires, and I am ripping up the track. Love the car.

Don't forget that OS.18 makes a bit more HP than the OS .12TZ and some good RPM. No wonder why it's blistering fast. ;)

Does anyone have experience with the one way diff on the CD3 Pro??

When I drove my friend's stock CD3 Pro I used my Futaba radio and had to adjust the ATL (EPA for other radios) and soon the car hooked up well for the turns. Also, it was a matter of driving style to get around the tight turns. I did like the car honestly, but I used my HPI stock R40 foams on it to get the best traction and handling. It did work very well although though the MT12 still wasn't enough for the track lol.

[CurveTracer]

These AAA battery packs run out of power quickly. The battery compartment for the kit version of the CD3 Pro is designed for a hump (5) pack of AAA batteries. I don't have much confidence in the ability of these batteries to supply current for these high torque servos.

What brand and configuration of batteries are you guys using??

[1stGenCRXer]

I'm using a trinity 850mAh AAA pack in my CD3 Pro kit, and using a traxxas receiver pack charger.

The pack lasts 2 1/2- 3 hours for me, more than plenty for any club racing or parking lot bashing I do.

EDIT: I also have a CD3 pro RTR [just got it for my brother], and that battery box has enough room for a 5 cell flat RX pack, if you have a small receiver. The CD3 pro kit comes with the parts needed to use the RTR receiver box if I'm not mistaken, can't remember what parts I had left over from my build.

[CurveTracer]

I'm using a trinity 850mAh AAA pack in my CD3 Pro kit, and using a traxxas receiver pack charger.

The pack lasts 2 1/2- 3 hours for me, more than plenty for any club racing or parking lot bashing I do.

EDIT: I also have a CD3 pro RTR [just got it for my brother], and that battery box has enough room for a 5 cell flat RX pack, if you have a small receiver. The CD3 pro kit comes with the parts needed to use the RTR receiver box if I'm not mistaken, can't remember what parts I had left over from my build.

My kit came with some extra parts like the cover for the RTR radio tray but nothing else that can be used. You would have to install the RTR radio tray. I may do as you have done get a high quality AAA hump pack. But next month I am going to make a AA 5cell battery pack that will fit where the receiver and current AAA batteries are housed. The receiver pack is light weiight and I'll just raise it up the diameter of the AA batteries, 16mm or so.
The AA pack weight is twice the AAA pack. but hasthe ability to supply lots of power for a longer time.

[Saboteur]

Well if the plan goes well, I'll be getting a CD3 Pro that is coming with my MT12 I sold my friend and I can try the Rody V12 in it as well. :)

[1stGenCRXer]

Either way will work I suppose.

The AAA battery pack wasn't too much though, ~$20.

[Saboteur]

Finally got the CD3 Pro. Here it is with myold MT12 engine. The engine only has about 20tanks thru it now, so it's still got plenty of life. There's a lot on this car I like and for me it has run really great at my home track with some tire change and radio adjustments.

http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN2869.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN2868.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN2867.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN2863.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN2862.jpg

[CurveTracer]

[QUOTE=Saboteur]Finally got the CD3 Pro. Here it is with myold MT12 engine. The engine only has about 20tanks thru it now, so it's still got plenty of life. There's a lot on this car I like and for me it has run really great at my home track with some tire change and radio adjustments.

These cars look awesome and solid.
What tire combinations are you using (ie F/R 40/37 shore)?

[Saboteur]

I don't think these are the stock foams. I think they are 40 front and 37 rear. I haven't driven it as of yet. I'm still debating whether or not I'll be installing the Rody in there as I like running the R40. The MT12 will be plenty power for the car.

[BMP Racing]

I just ordered a CD3 Pro car, TZ .18 engine, compact starter box and failsafe from Tower tonight. I race a 9.5 1/8th scale buggy so I am pretty much set up with the rest of what I will need to get the car on the track. The OFNA board was really full of good info but crashed and everything was lost. :mad: I plan on setting the chassis plate on the mill to clearence it for the starter box wheel. Any other areas that need attention before I assemble it? I did call the tech at OFNA and he said 100,000 weight oil in the rear diff was a decent starting point. Anyone agree? Anyone else care to share set ups? Shock oil weights? Gas on road here is pretty limited so I am forced to search the net for information. Thanks for any and all help!

Brad

BMP Racing

[1stGenCRXer]

I also have an OS 18 TZ on my CD3 Pro, so here's some things I've found/noticed.

The car is very, very hard to drive with that much power and a front one-way. I bit the bullet and ordered parts for two more complete diffs to play around with tuning. Currently I have 50k in the rear, and a partially blown diff up front that's been filled with epoxy to make a spool. With the TZ, the car is now much more stable on acceleration, and braking is less of a life-or-death ordeal.

Also, the kit springs seem to be alright for the front shocks, but seem a bit too stiff in the rear for the amount of power. I'm still playing with shock springs and oils.

The CD3 loves foam tires, but I've found that some C-27 take-off rubber tires hold up very well without changing the handling a terrible amount. I've been running the same set of tires for a month while I get things in the ball park, then I'll switch back to foams and finish dialing it in.

Another thing with the TZ, break it in well, and keep it running rich. When the TZ is making full power, none of the 4 tires will be making very good traction. It's a whole lot easier to lean the needle out a little for more top speed than it is to try and feather the throttle the whole time you're accelerating, trying not to let the car get out of shape.

[BMP Racing]

Thanks 1stGen! I thought twice about getting the .18 when I was ordering but though "freakin go for it" when I hit the submit button for the order. You really can't beat the price! I can always get a race legal .12 next spring when the track opens up. Do you have any experience with any of the high calibre .12 mills? Does the TZ make more torque and power than any of them? When I saw the dyno specs and read Steve Ponds article I took it that it's the most powerful SB engine bar none.

Hey I really appreciate the feedback on your set up. My car should be here Thursday and I will be assembling short after. I will hopefully get a chance to break in the engine this weekend. I can't wait!

Thanks again!

Brad

[brc358]

Ofna CD3, If you are looking for a real screamer, I use the OS cvx 18, one piece motor mount<huge difference> front one way,100,000 in the rear,37, and 40 shore tires, and then go to Ofnas web page, and use the set-up sheet for toe-in,camber ride height,droop. I have 3 CD3s one LD3,and they just scream. The OS engine with the one piece motor mount is great. You will see a difference in the engine. The CD3 just stomps on my Mugen MTX3. If you have any questions,call Ofna,speak to Chris or Jeff, they are the sponsored racers there, and they have helped me a lot. I met them at the track a few times also, and they took the time to show me some real great set-up tips, not on the web-page I have 17 cars,but swear by the Ofnas now. BRC

[1stGenCRXer]

BMP,

I have seen the 12TZ (3 port) run, and except for the tone of the engine, you'd swear it was an .18. The 12 doesn't have quite the same snap going into second, nor the all out top speed of the 18TZ, but honestly, what track are you going to run at where that makes any difference? I got the 18TZ because A: I wanted one and B: all anybody runs around here is outlaw TC's on temporary parking lot tracks, run by LHS's. With the 18, I can run it rich, sacrifice a little run time, and still outpace anyone on the straights, with gobs of torque off the corners. Then, if anyone is keeping even with me, I lean it out a 1/16th of a turn, remember to be a little more careful on the trigger on corner exit, and put 'em away.

The 12TZ is more than plenty, but for me, excess is never enough. I haven't seen the 5 port 12TZ run yet.

When debbie's RC world opens up their outdoor track, I'll probably get a 3 port 12TZ since they're super strict about running ROAR rules, but until then, the 18TZ is gobs of fun.

I also concur with brc358, spring the $30-35 for the one-piece motor mount, makes a huge difference.

I will have to differ on the front 1-way though, the 18TZ has quite a bit more torque and power than the 18cvx, and with a 1-way, it was nearly impossible to track straight under power, and braking from ludicris speed down to corner-making speed was a nightmare. Now that I have a locked diff in the front [which will require a slightly lighter weight in the rear diff than the 100k weight you guys are running], it tracks straight, stops shorter, and my on-power turning radius has actually decreased, which I attribute to getting the power down a bit better. Although now I have to re-learn my braking points, since it's real easy to slow down too much now. I will definately be having a machinist friend make me a spool for the front though, of that you can be certain.

Speaking of diffs, some more money well spent is getting the optional 13T diff gears, which one of the Ofna guys told me about [can't remember his name, sounded foreign, a little hard to understand, but extremely helpful]. Anyways, I forgot to shim the rear diff when I first built the car [BIG BIG MISTAKE], so the gears ate themselves up, and I was left with a front one-way, and a rear no-way, which equals no brakes, hence why I ordered enough parts to build 2-diffs. The Ofna guy told me to run the 13T diff gears, get the 4-spider gear diff cross pins, but only install 2 [10T] spider gears [REMEMBER TO SHIM, CAN'T EMPHASIZE THIS ENOUGH], with both cross pins. He said it lets the diff carry more oil [makes sense, there are only 2 spiders taking up space], and the 2 cross pins keep the case from deforming [which also makes sense, because they actually semi-press in the case to keep it in round], all while letting the diff action be and stay smoother. I followed all of his recommendations, built the diff, shimmed it tight, and after 10 minutes of driving, it was smooth as butter, with ZERO slop. My locked diff is my formerly stripped out diff filled with epoxy. If you follow this route, make sure there's no air-bubbles, and make sure there's nothing from the diff you want to re-use, if you want to try a locked diff without it being permanent, use silly-putty.

I can get the 13T part number if you want it, and I still have my list of parts for a complete diff build from scratch if you want that [~$50 each diff in parts though, ouch!].

[Saboteur]

Depending on your track size, you can still outrun the .18TZ. It's got so much power that must of the time you have to find ways of dialing it out, where as other engines you can just haul. I ran down a TZ with my Rody V12, and a Picco Xp engine. If you had waited, you should've just gotten the .12TZ which is great for small to medium tracks. If you've got a large track, look into some Novarossi and the RB Rody line up. My CD3 Pro is ready to hit the lots/tracks once again tomorrow. :)
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN2890.jpg
http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b179/VTECHSaboteur/DSCN2887.jpg

[1stGenCRXer]

I hear ya, I know the 18TZ isn't the end-all of small blocks, but I find that it's much easier to dial out some throttle end point, or richen the engine up slightly than it is to try and squeeze out more power that just isn't there. I'm the only one in the local area running an 18TZ [besides my brother the copycat who got a FW-05R with an 18tz], everyone else is running an RB modified 12, or a 12TZ, or even a traxxas 2.5r. I have to really screw up the corner [which happens pretty frequently as I get used to the transition from off-road to on-road] for them to have a chance of passing.

I notice you're running the stock springs, what shock oil are you using? Running the front one-way?

[brc358]

Well I have 17 cars<I think, I need to recount them> and over 1/2 have a Novarossi 12. A couple have the Novarossi N12LL5,one is in a Mugen MTX3,RD pipe,centex clutch, and just about every upragde possible, and my CD3 with the OS 18 just walks away from them all. Your CD3 looks nice, and I might even try that comination myself, but for me the CD3,OS 18,front one way, and the set-up I am using is doing great. It would be cool if a bunch of CD3 owners could meet and run some laps together.

[Disman]

I love my CD3, where ar you guys from?

[1stGenCRXer]

Hampton, VA

You know you can find this info out from profiles right?

[Saboteur]

Yeah, except some people don't put in where they live nor are you required to. :) I live in Port Chester, NY.

[brc358]

I live in So Ca. Luckily for me, Ofna,Yokomo,Tamiya,HPI, Associated, Cen,Mugen,Horrizon, just about all the major car manufactures are within 30 min. from my house. You can really go broke fast when you have as many cars as I do, and their offices are so close to home.

[1stGenCRXer]

I live in So Ca. Luckily for me,
Yeah, yeah, rub it in to the guys [like me] that have to wait 4-5 days on nitrohouse.com orders since most of my LHS don't stock ofna parts, nor can they get the odd ball stuff I'm always seeming to want.

[Disman]

I live i Durham, NC and this is basically NTC3 country. You can check out our club track website at www.thercspeedway.com

[Jonerick]

Is there any commercially available battery pack for the CD3 pro? Thanks

[Saboteur]

In mine. there is a small brick pack AAA size. Those work great in the car. Hump pack or stick packs won't fit.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCKM1&P=7

[brc358]

Is there any commercially available battery pack for the CD3 pro? Thanks
I use a 5 cell hump back battery in all three of my CD3 Pro cars.
Contact Hobby Town.com
Change your switch out to a switch with the pigtail to where you can charge the battery without removing it.
I have not one problem with the batteries, and have never had to remove them sinse they were installed. Venom makes a good 5 cell hump back that works well.
BRC

[1stGenCRXer]

The CD3 pro kit uses a 5 cell AAA hump pack like this:
http://h1069935.hobbyshopnow.com/products/description.asp?prod=EXRB101

Although I have a 830mAh Trinity battery that I bought locally at a hobbytown USA.

I agree about the switch with charging jack though, saves a ton of grief.

EDIT: I forgot to mention, the CD3 Pro RTR's battery box is big enough to use a standard 2/3A flat Rx pack, if you have a small Rx. I imagine a hump pack would fit toward the rear of the battery box as well, but we have a flat pack in the RTR pro, and I use a AAA hump pack in my pro kit car.

[Jonerick]

Thanks guys.

[Saboteur]

Welp, guess nitro onroad is goin down for the time being. I really cant wait to test drive my ride again. Want to get some action goin.

[1stGenCRXer]

Yeah, the weather here has snapped off cold, so I'm using the last bit of the fairly warm days to finish doing setup testing before starting back up in the spring.

Anybody had their CD3 clocked yet? A police officer from down the street radar'd mine at 72.3mph.

[Saboteur]

I'm sure my hits the upper 60mph range easily with the stock gearing and Rody 3port STD that I have.

[brc358]

Yeah, the weather here has snapped off cold, so I'm using the last bit of the fairly warm days to finish doing setup testing before starting back up in the spring.

Anybody had their CD3 clocked yet? A police officer from down the street radar'd mine at 72.3mph.
What gearing<clutch bell and spur gears> are you running in your CD3
I am running an OStzp 18, the car really runs hard, but I have not actually been able to clock it yet.
I run all my cars on a very large asphalt smooth track.
thanks

[BMP Racing]

I just got my TZ-P powered Pro broke in. It freakin flys. I really can't believe how much torque and h.p. the engine has. It is VERY fun to drive. I hope to get some radar runs with it soon.

Brad

[Saboteur]

Is this the .12 or the .18?

[BMP Racing]

Oops! It's the .18.

Brad

[brc358]

Oops! It's the .18.

Brad
You should try the one piece motor mount from Ofna for the CD3.
I use one on two of my CD3 with the OS 18, and they are great.
I dont think it is in the option list from Ofna, but you can get it from Nitro House. They run around $31.00

[BMP Racing]

You should try the one piece motor mount from Ofna for the CD3.
I use one on two of my CD3 with the OS 18, and they are great.
I dont think it is in the option list from Ofna, but you can get it from Nitro House. They run around $31.00


I set the car up originally with the stock two piece mount to get the right spacing, drafted to CAD and will mahine one out soon. $31 is way cheap but I like building my own parts once and a while.

Are you running the TZ or CV .18's?

Brad

[brc358]

I set the car up originally with the stock two piece mount to get the right spacing, drafted to CAD and will mahine one out soon. $31 is way cheap but I like building my own parts once and a while.

Are you running the TZ or CV .18's?

Brad
I am running both actually.
I have a TZP 18 in one car, CV 18 in one car, and an Ofna Pico 12 in the third car.
The TZp is a rocket for sure, but the CV is so strong it almost keeps up with the new TZp .

[BMP Racing]

Do you race? Where is the Picco .12 softer than the OS .18's. I would assume everywhere.

Brad

[brc358]

Do you race? Where is the Picco .12 softer than the OS .18's. I would assume everywhere.

Brad.
I run my cars at Revelation Raceway in Montclair., So. Ca. The Ofna Pico 12 is O.K., not the strongest motor, but it holds its own. I have it in an Ofna CD3Pro. In one of my other CD3 Pros, I have the TZp18, and anothe CD3, I have the OS.Cv 18. The TZp18 is a true rocket. The Cv18 has more torque, and really pulls hard all the way down the track.But between the two, I lean more to the TZp 18. I also have one in an NTC3.I have a Mike Salvin prepped Novarossi 12 in a Mugen MTX3, and this one is simply amazing. I am thinking of putting this in one of the CD3 Pro cars.What set-ups do you use for your cars. I met some the guys from Ofna at the track a couple of times, and they were very helpful in giving me set-up tricks. They have some very trick cars, and have been great.

[spenzalii]

I'm looking at that 12TZ for my CD3 once I get it.

[Jonerick]

I have .18 TZP on my CD Pro. I want to take advantage of the engine's power without sacrificing handling. I am using the stock foam tires, stock pipe, M8 radio, 30% Nitro. Any suggestion on the gearing? What is the best temp range for the engine without sacrificing performance and life of the engine?

Thanks again.

[brc358]

I have .18 TZP on my CD Pro. I want to take advantage of the engine's power without sacrificing handling. I am using the stock foam tires, stock pipe, M8 radio, 30% Nitro. Any suggestion on the gearing? What is the best temp range for the engine without sacrificing performance and life of the engine?

Thanks again.Just for comparrison for you, I am running an OSCV 18 in one of my CD3 cars, and then the OSTZP18 in a NTC3. I am using stock gearing in the Ofna,and stock pipe, with 23/27 clutch, and 48/52 spur in the NTC3.The CV18 seems to have a lot more torque, while the TZ18 has higher rpm. The CV18 runs about 210 degrees, and the TZ18 runs about 220. They both have 37/42 shore tires. It would be difficult to say which car has the most overall power, as they both have different power bands. I did go to the M11 radio, and it make quite a bit difference in the way you can drive the cars. Use the Ofna one piece motor mount, and switch to a one way in the front,37 or 40/42 tires, upgrade the rear diff gears, and then use 100,00 weight lube, you should be set to go. Expect about 220 degrees on your motor. Hope this helps you some.

[Jonerick]

Just for comparrison for you, I am running an OSCV 18 in one of my CD3 cars, and then the OSTZP18 in a NTC3. I am using stock gearing in the Ofna,and stock pipe, with 23/27 clutch, and 48/52 spur in the NTC3.The CV18 seems to have a lot more torque, while the TZ18 has higher rpm. The CV18 runs about 210 degrees, and the TZ18 runs about 220. They both have 37/42 shore tires. It would be difficult to say which car has the most overall power, as they both have different power bands. I did go to the M11 radio, and it make quite a bit difference in the way you can drive the cars. Use the Ofna one piece motor mount, and switch to a one way in the front,37 or 40/42 tires, upgrade the rear diff gears, and then use 100,00 weight lube, you should be set to go. Expect about 220 degrees on your motor. Hope this helps you some.

Thanks, Brc. I will try the setup and update you with the performance.

[1stGenCRXer]

I'm running stock gearing with a 18TZ-P on my CD3 pro kit as well.

I would recommend a setup slightly favoring on-power drift, and off-power push for stability if you can manage it. Also, if you're running the centax clutch, bring it in a little lower than you would for most other engines, unless you just happen to like spin-outs and buying foams every 3 runs or so.

I also ditched the front one-way on mine in favor of a locked diff, made a world of difference trying to put the power down.

Now I just need to get a vantage pipes to take care of those un-expected high speed board hits...

[Saboteur]

Is there ANY company other than ofna that makes pipes for the CD3 Pro? :confused: I'm sure gonna want a new pipe for the car to see how much better it can be, or just slap the Rody back into the R40 and get a new pipe for that car.

[brc358]

Is there ANY company other than ofna that makes pipes for the CD3 Pro? :confused: I'm sure gonna want a new pipe for the car to see how much better it can be, or just slap the Rody back into the R40 and get a new pipe for that car.
Contact Nitro House in Irvine Ca. They can hook you up with just about any pipe that you might need. Web site is Nitrohouse.com
Also they are a great place to shop, and the guys are very helpful.They are actually right next door to Ofna, and if they dont have what you need for any of your Ofna cars, all they do is walk next door and pick it up.
BRC

[1stGenCRXer]

The ofna mega-R pipe makes good power, my problem is that it's too weak on side impacts.

I know any pipe for a rear exhaust engine that will fit a Kyosho FW-05 will work.

[Saboteur]

What pipe is that?

BRC-Yeah I know of them. The site isnt to great.

[CurveTracer]

The ofna mega-R pipe makes good power, my problem is that it's too weak on side impacts.

I know any pipe for a rear exhaust engine that will fit a Kyosho FW-05 will work.

Try RD Logics the pipes are expensive but they have protection
www.rdlogics.com

Ken

[brc358]

The ofna mega-R pipe makes good power, my problem is that it's too weak on side impacts.

I know any pipe for a rear exhaust engine that will fit a Kyosho FW-05 will work.
What I do on all of my pipes is take a Dremmel tool with a a small grinding tip, and scuff-up the inside of the pipe and in inside edge of the stinger. Mix -up some J-B Weld and build a gusset on the two inside corners. After it dries<about 5 min.> take the Dremmel tool and smooth out and rough spots.
If you are careful, you can do a decent looking gusset, and it Really improves the weak spot where the stinger connects to the pipe. There are some 1/8 buggy pipes that use this method, but they are built into the pipe-stinger assembly itself. It really helps out on side impacts. I just bought four new pipes about 5 days ago, and before I even installed them, I built gussets for each one of them.If the pipe is dented itself<not too close to the stinger> you can plug the pipes, fill the with water, and put them into your freezer overnight. This will pop out a lot of the dents in the pipes. It make take two times to do it, but it does work. BRC

[Saboteur]

Not sure if anyone was interested, but I'm considering of selling my Cd3 pro with Futaba 3pdfx radio, no engine and clutch gear for $180. It's only missing like 3 screws from the upper deck as I used them with the R40. Overall the R40 truely was faster than the CD3 pro and drivetrain a lot smoother. I just couldn't figure it out why. The stock pinions will also be included if wanted and a steering servo horn. Still need to get the body from my friend who keeps forgetting to give it to me.

[1stGenCRXer]

Anybody tried the Protoform Lola T530 body on thier CD3 yet?

I'm running a Nemesis body now, much more downforce and much better balance with a Proline wing than the MG XS body I tried at first, but it looks like there will be a number of "run what ya brung" tracks this upcoming season for me to really open up the 18TZ at. With that in mind, I'm thinking seriously about getting some floating rear body mounts and that Lola body.

Thoughts?

[Saboteur]

Lola's work best with floating rear mounts. Sure you get a lot of downforce in the rear, but compared to a nomal TC body with proper setup they'd handle about the same. Too much downforce won't provide you with any suspension action. I had the Kawahara body on mine and running the Stratus 3.0, I liked the Stratus better.

[markallen]

Where do guys buy parts for the CD3 from?I am need of a 49 spur gear.

Mark

[1stGenCRXer]

Nitro House (www.nitrohouse.com) for all your Ofna needs.

As for the lola body, I hear what you're saying about suspension action, but what I'm looking for is more high-speed turn-in and stability getting up to speed. The Nemesis body does a pretty good job on stability from second gear to wind out, but at lower speeds I want a bit more front downforce. The pro kit is sprung pretty stiff already, and I'm not above stiffening it further if that's what a lola body would require.

Every little bit to reign in that OS 18 TZ at full tilt is what I'm after.

[brc358]

Where do guys buy parts for the CD3 from?I am need of a 49 spur gear.

Mark
I just call NitroHouse and can order just about any part I need for the CD3.
The are right next door to Ofna, in Irvine Ca. I have been there countless times, and they are a great help for stock, or option parts.
brc

[Saboteur]

Nitro House (www.nitrohouse.com) for all your Ofna needs.

As for the lola body, I hear what you're saying about suspension action, but what I'm looking for is more high-speed turn-in and stability getting up to speed. The Nemesis body does a pretty good job on stability from second gear to wind out, but at lower speeds I want a bit more front downforce. The pro kit is sprung pretty stiff already, and I'm not above stiffening it further if that's what a lola body would require.

Every little bit to reign in that OS 18 TZ at full tilt is what I'm after.

Hey what's the Nemesis body look like? A little something I'm nto too familiar with. Maybe you can rig up a floating rear mount like the 8ths have. Basically you need flexible arms to attach to the cars rear hub, flat body mount, and voila. :)
http://www.mugenracing.com/MRX-4/IMG0003.jpg

[1stGenCRXer]

I don't have a picture of my nemesis right off, but here it is on protoform's site:Nemesis body (http://www.pro-lineracing.com/protoform/touring/1473-74/1473-74.html) And I'm using this wing (http://www.hobbypeople.net/gallery/243403.asp) on the back. Good downforce, doesn't flap around like the lexan wings have been doing to me.

Also, the ofna floating body mounts for the LD3 also work on the CD3. Ofna part# 83603 as seen on Nitrohouse's parts listing for the CD3.

[Saboteur]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1952522#post1952522

Just thought I'd post this if anyone was interested.

[1stGenCRXer]

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=212150

There's a picture of my nemesis in that thread for anyone interested.

[CaptEvo]

I'm thinking about getting either the CD3 Pro RTR or NTC3 RTR plus or drifting around the cudesac. Which would you recommend?
Thanks,

[Saboteur]

I like both cars...personally the NTC3 a little better though it is weaker with the oneway up front and needs the mod for the front shock towers. Other than that its an awesome car. Parts are easier to come by for me so I'd get it. The Cd3 PRo is pretty sturdy and a great car just not easy for parts for me. I'm selling one here dirt cheap if you want one for spares. Had 4 runs in this car no racing. It even comes with a free failsafe unit. Only needs clutch, engine, and radio gear.

http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?p=1952522#post1952522

[CurveTracer]

Does anyone know the spring rate in lbs. of the CD3 Pro Kit, florscent yellow springs.

[spenzalii]

Not sure if they are the same as the yellow in the hop up kit they have (which are 35lb, I think)

[CurveTracer]

No, They are not the same rate as the yellow SNR springs.
The PRO RTR florscent yellow springs feel like a progressibe spring rate, maybe they are around 22 lbs.

[Delta9]

Hi all,

Just thought i would show you all my CD3 Pro

http://f10.putfile.com/thumb/8/21703174330.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/8/21703174330.jpg&s=f10)

http://f10.putfile.com/thumb/8/21703101826.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/8/21703101826.jpg&s=f10)

http://f10.putfile.com/thumb/8/21703204438.jpg (http://putfile.com/pic.php?pic=main/8/21703204438.jpg&s=f10)

If you want to see a few more pics go to http://www.putfile.com/delta9b

what you guys think?

[CurveTracer]

That is one clean, fully optioned car!!!
Almost looks too good to dirty up racing on a less than perfect, non-dirty/dusty track.
Are those optional carbon fiber suspension mounts?
What brand springs do you have mounted?

[Delta9]

Hi CurveTracer, Yes they are the carbon fiber suspension mounts :)
Thanks, it is a pain to see it get dirty in a parking lot, i have the OFNA red springs in front and the blue ones in the back.
Hows yours and your sons cars doing?

[Delta9]

Does anyone know the spring rate in lbs. of the CD3 Pro Kit, florscent yellow springs.

Here are the OFNA spring rates

Blue 17.0 lbs.
Red 19.5
Copper 25.0
Purple 30
Yellow 35
White 40

[Tunedflow23]

Hey I'm thinking of getting a new engine along with new ratios does anyone know what other brand 0.8 pitch gears will fit the CD3 2 speed the R40 looks like it might fit but I'm not sure.

[slw4red]

Hi all, i'm considering getting the CD3 PRO RTR and was wondering if anyone knew where i could find some video's of one running,

Also what do you all think of the PRO RTR version? is it worth the $$$

[CurveTracer]

Hi all, i'm considering getting the CD3 PRO RTR and was wondering if anyone knew where i could find some video's of one running,

Also what do you all think of the PRO RTR version? is it worth the $$$

The CD3 PRO RTR car is very durable. The layout is easy to maintain and service. The threaded shock bodies make suspension changes easy.
The engine (Force .12) is a sport engine but performs well at the racetrack. As with any engine, depending on the track layout etc. gearing other than stock may be required to extract the best performance from it.
If you are a beginner, I recommend this car, especially if you will be racing at a track. If you are already experienced with these 1/10 scale touring type cars or equivalent go for the CD3 PRO Kit.

I would start out with a known car setup, springs shock oil, etc. Unless you have lots of time and experience with car setups, try one that is being used by someone racing.

I own two PRO Kit cars, and my sons race PRO RTRs.

[1stGenCRXer]

My CD3 pro is quickly running out of hop-ups I can put on it, so I thought I'd give some thoughts/insight on the fit, use and installation of the options I've put on my kit car so far:

The CNC servo-saver: My stock plastic bits were getting sloppy, so I opted for the CNC kit. Installation is pretty straight-forward, just match up the ball links from your stock plastic pieces to the new aluminum unit, as there are a couple of different mounting options to go with shorter toe links. Rather than go that route, I put it back the same as I already had the car set-up. The only issue I've had with it is the screws that mount the swing arms to the cross bar like to back off, even with lock-tite. I'm going to have to take it back apart and see about possibly peening the screw ends so they can't come loose, or see about some other method of sealing the screws in place. A 30 minute main is long enough for the steering to get sloppy, but not enough to lose a screw in your steering. Either way, the bearings and aluminum parts give a precise fit when everything is tight, so I won't be going back to the stock plastic due to this minor annoyance.

The CNC/CF arm/shock mounts: These are a very straight forward install, remove your stock mounts, install the pieces in the kit. The kit also includes shorter hinge pins for the upper arms, as the CF is thinner than the stock plastic. The distance between the CF parts is the same as the stock plastic, so you don't gain any castor adjustment range though. I would also recommend installing the smaller CF piece onto the CNC aluminum plate before mounting it to your gear case, though the larger piece must be left off in order to access all the mounting bolts for the CNC plate. I didn't weigh the difference between the stock plastic and the hop-up kit, though they seem to be very similar in weight, though definately lower your CG. Another thing of note; with the CNC/CF arm mounts, you get 3 roll center adjustments for the hinge pin. The lower/inside mount hole is close to stock for the front, and the rear. I haven't had a chance to play with these new optional settings yet. Also for those interested, this mount set is the only way to get a lola body to fit properly on a CD-3, the stock plastic mount simply sets too high in the front for a proper fitment.

CNC servo mounts, steering and throttle: The CD3 pro kit comes with the steering servo CNC mounts already, they fit easy, and hold the servo very securely. The same is true for the throttle mount. The stock plastic throttle mounts were giving me some flexing under braking, causing some irratic late-braking attempts. The CNC mounts have made the car more predictable charging hard [sometimes too hard] into a corner.

Floating rear body mount: Like most of the CD3 upgrades, the part numbers are the same between the LD3 and CD3. The floating rear body mount is a sweet addition regardless of what body style you're running. Quite simply, it allows the body to be more areo-stable at all speeds. The chassis can work without having to strain against downforce on the suspension, as now the downforce of the body push directly on the rear tires. The best part is the location and alignment of the body posts on the floating body mounts are identical to the stock body mounts, so even if you upgrade, you won't have to mutilate that body you just painted with more mounting holes, it's a direct fit. Also, the CF arm mounts are already pre-drilled for the installation of the floating rear body mount, and the body mount kit comes with an extra lock-nut for installation on the CF arm mounts. No extra work.

CNC engine mount: Everyone needs one of these. If you think you don't, you're fooling yourself. Rock-solid engine mounting, the lowest CG you can manage, fits all small block engines, and simplifies engine alignment and gear mesh to a kindergarten level. Everyone needs one ;)

[slw4red]

My CD3 pro is quickly running out of hop-ups I can put on it, so I thought I'd give some thoughts/insight on the fit, use and installation of the options I've put on my kit car so far:

The CNC servo-saver: My stock plastic bits were getting sloppy, so I opted for the CNC kit. Installation is pretty straight-forward, just match up the ball links from your stock plastic pieces to the new aluminum unit, as there are a couple of different mounting options to go with shorter toe links. Rather than go that route, I put it back the same as I already had the car set-up. The only issue I've had with it is the screws that mount the swing arms to the cross bar like to back off, even with lock-tite. I'm going to have to take it back apart and see about possibly peening the screw ends so they can't come loose, or see about some other method of sealing the screws in place. A 30 minute main is long enough for the steering to get sloppy, but not enough to lose a screw in your steering. Either way, the bearings and aluminum parts give a precise fit when everything is tight, so I won't be going back to the stock plastic due to this minor annoyance.

The CNC/CF arm/shock mounts: These are a very straight forward install, remove your stock mounts, install the pieces in the kit. The kit also includes shorter hinge pins for the upper arms, as the CF is thinner than the stock plastic. The distance between the CF parts is the same as the stock plastic, so you don't gain any castor adjustment range though. I would also recommend installing the smaller CF piece onto the CNC aluminum plate before mounting it to your gear case, though the larger piece must be left off in order to access all the mounting bolts for the CNC plate. I didn't weigh the difference between the stock plastic and the hop-up kit, though they seem to be very similar in weight, though definately lower your CG. Another thing of note; with the CNC/CF arm mounts, you get 3 roll center adjustments for the hinge pin. The lower/inside mount hole is close to stock for the front, and the rear. I haven't had a chance to play with these new optional settings yet. Also for those interested, this mount set is the only way to get a lola body to fit properly on a CD-3, the stock plastic mount simply sets too high in the front for a proper fitment.

CNC servo mounts, steering and throttle: The CD3 pro kit comes with the steering servo CNC mounts already, they fit easy, and hold the servo very securely. The same is true for the throttle mount. The stock plastic throttle mounts were giving me some flexing under braking, causing some irratic late-braking attempts. The CNC mounts have made the car more predictable charging hard [sometimes too hard] into a corner.

Floating rear body mount: Like most of the CD3 upgrades, the part numbers are the same between the LD3 and CD3. The floating rear body mount is a sweet addition regardless of what body style you're running. Quite simply, it allows the body to be more areo-stable at all speeds. The chassis can work without having to strain against downforce on the suspension, as now the downforce of the body push directly on the rear tires. The best part is the location and alignment of the body posts on the floating body mounts are identical to the stock body mounts, so even if you upgrade, you won't have to mutilate that body you just painted with more mounting holes, it's a direct fit. Also, the CF arm mounts are already pre-drilled for the installation of the floating rear body mount, and the body mount kit comes with an extra lock-nut for installation on the CF arm mounts. No extra work.

CNC engine mount: Everyone needs one of these. If you think you don't, you're fooling yourself. Rock-solid engine mounting, the lowest CG you can manage, fits all small block engines, and simplifies engine alignment and gear mesh to a kindergarten level. Everyone needs one ;)



NICE!!!!!

[Tunedflow23]

Hey does anyone know if the ofna 6 gear diff kit includes the small 10T gears and how many of the gears are included both 12T and 10T

[markallen]

Well I have ran NTC3's for along time and I have finally decided to jump ship.My bud has a CD3 Pro and it is nice..I will be getting one very soon because I have found it is a much better buy then the FT NTC3.Shoot the FT NTC3 doesn't even include tires or s body.The CD3 Pro has tires,a body and a centax clutch.And it's cheaper..After driving a CD3 Pro I know I am going to enjoy mine..

[Delta9]

Welcome mark im sure you will enjoy the car as we are!

[spenzalii]

Nice car. Durable. Better than people give it credit for. As long as you can get parts, you'll be straight.

As for the diff, the kit comes with the 10T gears, not the 12T. You will need one set for each diff.

[CurveTracer]

Well I have ran NTC3's for along time and I have finally decided to jump ship.My bud has a CD3 Pro and it is nice..I will be getting one very soon because I have found it is a much better buy then the FT NTC3.Shoot the FT NTC3 doesn't even include tires or s body.The CD3 Pro has tires,a body and a centax clutch.And it's cheaper..After driving a CD3 Pro I know I am going to enjoy mine..

Hey Mark,
did you get the CD3 assembles and ready for the season???

[1stGenCRXer]

Alright guys, shake the cobwebs out.

Who's racing this season?

My LHS is having the first race of the season saturday, and I think I'm pretty well set, just spent some time tonight getting fresh foams trued.

However, I think I'm in need of some setup advice. I have an idea what I'm going to change, but I want to see what everyone else is running.

Currently I'm running:
Camber 1.5 F/3.0 R [even wear across the tread]
Toe 1.0 out F/ 1.5 in Rear
40W shock oil
stock neon yellow Pro kit springs
Spool up front
30k oil rear
40 shore tires front/35 shore rear
Geared up as high as I can w/ centax clutch, 0.8 pitch gears

BTW, I'm racing 1/10 outlaw with my OS 18 TZ.

Right now I have no complaints with how the car handles, it's a *little* tail-happy if I get crazy on the throttle, but what I really don't like is I have pretty agressive/severe tire wear in the rear. It's nothing to chew through a new set of trued foams in an afternoon of racing, with the fronts still like new.

I read a review of the Serpent 720 in the April 07 RCCA where Lito Reyes [the author] had a similar problem with a very similar setup [spool up front] and got tire wear under control by adding rear grip in the way of lighter oil and softer springs in the rear.

I have the full LD3/CD3 spring kit that I have yet to open and experiment with, anyone want to give me suggestions on a spring/oil combination that will give me a slight on-power push, and hopfully cure this foam-eating characteristic?

TIA

[Delta9]

I am using the red springs upfront and the blue in the rear, thats about as soft as you can go with the cd3 springs, i am also using 40w oil front and rear, also try some more toe in at the rear, i am at 3 in at the rear. should help with the tail being happy on corners, also when the rears are sliding alot the will wear MUCH faster

[1stGenCRXer]

I double-checked my setup on the setup board today:

Toe 2 out F/ 3 in R
Camber 1.5 F/ 4.5 R [on the rear, I can't remember if that's where I ended up on adjustments to even out my tire wear or not, find out at the track I suppose]
I just put on the red/blue spring combo, unfortunately it's raining so I couldn't do any quick testing.

I'm also running the lowest roll center in the front and rear with the CF shock towers.

I also lowered the ride height to around 5mm front, 4mm rear, though I think it may be too low for the parking lot track I run, easy enough to fix at the track though if that's the case. Droop is set around 3mm front and rear and I discovered some tweak in the chassis that I corrected while I was at it.

I trued up some tires last night as well, 3 sets of 45shore F/ 38 R nitro shoes, which has apparently become the "spec" tires, ie, they're the only ones the LHS is carrying now after polling the majority of the weekly racers. Shouldn't hurt my balance, but may reduce overall grip compared to what I'm used to, may have to do some camber adjustments at the track.

Am I missing anything?

[Delta9]

sounds like you got everything covered, with the softer springs the harder tyres shouldnt be a problem at all. Maybe set front droop to 1mm or 0 this should help with on power steering, you could even go to 4mm droop in the rear with 0 at the front. I prefer a little less toe out in the front 1.5 at the most, but use whatever you feel most comfy with. Good luck for the race! enjoy it. Having my last race with my CD3 this sunday, my MTX4R will be in on monday :D

[1stGenCRXer]

Did a quick bit of testing today, those guys are gonna be in trouble tomorrow.

My car has never hooked up that well with the 18TZ, it accelerates hard, straight, and without drama like a high powered electric TC now.

Have a slight off-power corner entry push, and an on-power push, might play with the rear swaybar to stiffen it up if the track is too tight to make the corners consistently to take some traction back off the rear.

Full report tomorrow hopefully.

[markallen]

Did a quick bit of testing today, those guys are gonna be in trouble tomorrow.

My car has never hooked up that well with the 18TZ, it accelerates hard, straight, and without drama like a high powered electric TC now.

Have a slight off-power corner entry push, and an on-power push, might play with the rear swaybar to stiffen it up if the track is too tight to make the corners consistently to take some traction back off the rear.

Full report tomorrow hopefully.

So what's your setup?I can use some help.

Mark

[1stGenCRXer]

Here you go, every last detail.

Edit: forgot to mention I'm also using the CNC servo-saver, carbon shock towers with lower roll center front and rear, and a floating rear body mount.

[Delta9]

If you race a 30 min main you may want to leave your rear tyres 2mm bigger to account for tyre wear, or at the end you are going to be overdriving the rear and the handling will go up the creek, espcially with your OS .18tz that thing must eat foam for breakfast.

So has the spring change been positive? let us know how your race goes!

[1stGenCRXer]

Good news bad news:

Good news,

The changes I made definately hooked up the rear. So well in fact that I did have to stiffen up the sway bar to get more rotation on the tight track. It also evened up my tire wear to the point that front and rear wore at *almost* the same rate. The car was also fast and easy to drive predictably.

Bad news,

I cracked a CF front suspension plate in practice after getting glanced off of by another car and striking the boards. Tightened the screw up some more and laid on some CA, a non-issue really.

THEN, I broke an axle changing tires before the heats, managed to catch the last heat to get some laps in by canabalizing a spare car. No I didn't overtighten the nut, apparently the damage had been done and it was finally time for it to totally break.

Then I started warm-up laps before the main, and just as the cars were lining up, my second gear clutch jammed, and resulted in first and second gear getting totally destroyed. Of course I'm using 0.8 pitch gears, the donor car is not, and for those wondering, they do NOT share the same gear hubs for first and second gear. This wouldn't be a problem other than the screw on the brake side of the 2-speed assembly stripped out on mine as I was trying to disassemble it to change gears.

All in all, a bad day at the track, and since I work offshore in the gulf of mexico, it's going to be another month before I can try it again. By then I'll have even MORE spare parts on hand to prevent such tragedy.

[markallen]

Does anyone have an extra CD3 Pro manual or can some one scan one for me?I lost mine and I can not find the Pro manual anywhere online.

Mark

[CurveTracer]

Hey does anyone know if the ofna 6 gear diff kit includes the small 10T gears and how many of the gears are included both 12T and 10T

Ofna does not sell the diff assembled. You have to order the parts and assemble it. The 6 ger diff uses 2 12T (38402) gears and the 4 gear diff uses 2 13T (37771) gears. All other parts are the same. Howerer, you cannot use the 12T diff gears in a 4 gear diff, or the 13T gears in a 6 gear diff. The diffs will self destruct while racing.

[1stGenCRXer]

markallen:
http://www.ofna.com/pdf/cd3-rtr.pdf

The rtr and pro rtr manual isn't any different for most intents and purposes. I'll be back home in a couple weeks and can probably track down my pro kit manual if you need some pages that aren't in the pdf I linked to.

On Diffs, one of the factory drivers [Lin maybe?] told me to build my diffs as a 4 gear with the 13T gears, but to use the 6 gear cross pins. Supposedly this is the toughest combo he's found, and I have to say, after trying it, I don't doubt it. I now have a junked diff filled with epoxy as a spool in the front of the car, a diff built this way in the rear, a 1-way and two spare diffs built this way in my spares box that have yet to be used.

Now the real intent of this post, I'm putting together a much needed spares list and ran accross this part number on nitrohouse.com, anybody heard of/used it?

38549 DRIVE CUP, ALUM. CENTER

If I read the description correct it should get rid of the plastic on the 2 speed shaft, which other than gears, I don't like plastic in the drivetrain anyways, so that would be a good thing.

If anybody has any info, please share.

[1stGenCRXer]

Called Ofna today, the

38549 DRIVE CUP, ALUM. CENTER

Is apparently a drive cup for the forward diff gearbox to get rid of the plastic/metal ring combo the stock kits are set up for to clear the servo saver.

Anybody still have their CD3 and getting ready for the upcoming season?

[BDavis]

I know this thread has been a LONG time since posted in it but here's my Outlaw CD3 with a .21 big block Novarossi Kangaroo engine. I also use 1/8th scale Mugen tires and drag race this car a ton.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=gqFR3W1nSxU

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2/BrentDavis_ZX14/DSC00998.jpg

http://i84.photobucket.com/albums/k2/BrentDavis_ZX14/DSC01004.jpg

[1stGenCRXer]

Hehe, and I thought I had my CD3 overpowered!

[BDavis]

Hehe, and I thought I had my CD3 overpowered!

I see you are in Hampton, VA. I am in Waldorf, MD. and we street race ALOT here. I originally built a NTC3 with a RB Xenon "R" box stock but the NTC3 didn't have steel upgrades for the gear differentials and I was breaking the plastic ones left and right so I found that the CD3 was a better design with even having the center trans. Let me know if you guys race down in that area. I'd like to come out and play and oh, that CD3 of mine is not overpowered at all especially using the 1/8th scale Mugen tires on it. I am just careful in my neighborhood so I don't tear up my car or hit someone elses real car.

Here's my old NTC3 that I sold.

http://youtube.com/watch?v=FW03UZ41GtU

[1stGenCRXer]

Unfortunately, my CD3 is in need of repair at the moment. My 2 speed is destroyed and I've been too busy to actually order the parts and get it put back together.

We race nitro touring "run what you brung" with HobbyTownUSA down here, parking lot tracks. The same guy owns the store in Richmond, Newport News, and VA Beach and usually runs them on a rotating schedule. A good variety of cars run, NTC3's, Kyoshos, Mugens, Ofnas and HPIs, and all with a variety of modded ROAR legal .12's up to .18TZ's, nobody with a bigblock yet. The only place big power has an advantage on the parking lot tracks is the short straightaways, handling is the most important factor on the car's side.

Debbie's RC World in Cheseapeake should have a track before too much longer, though they will be running strict ROAR rules I'm fairly certain.

[BDavis]

My car handles very well with that .21 in it. I live about 5 miles fro 301 Capitol Raceway and go there all the time and the car runs great on that track especially since it is prepped with VHT or whatever they put down. Of course I can't run in any events because it is a 1/10th scale with a .21 in it but it does get the ohhhhs and ahhhhs when it goes in the straights. It has been clocked at 72 MPH on their long stretch and I have more gear to go if need be. I really like this car, that's for sure. It is one of the most underated 1/10th scale cars out there period. I am now in the process of getting new Boca ceramic bearings for it next and then off to some street drag racing which is what I enjoy the most anyways.

Thanks for your input and get that thing fixed up. I just spent $150 on spare parts today with Nitrohouse.

[1stGenCRXer]

I agree, the CD3 is definately one of the most underrated cars out. My car is a pro kit with just about every hop up available. I wrote a review on most of them in this thread.

My spares and repair parts list is up around $700 whenever I put in my order, which is another reason I haven't got it all put back together yet. I work offshore, so I'm gone for a month and home for 2 weeks at a time. I'll let you know when it's all put back together though, I'm curious how that .21 does against my .18TZ in a slightly lighter car ;)