Savage is giving me nothing but heartache!!! [Archive]

55018speed

04-02-2005, 12:59 AM

hey guys i cant believe the problems my savage is giving me.i just had it apart for the umteenth time to put in my 3rd dual disc brake setup and i take it outside fire it up,it was stopping better then ever and all of a sudden the aluminum rod that operates the brass piston fell out.i cant understand why it would fall out it should be locked in there by the piston right?i really am getting sick and tired of fixing this thing i need some run time to compensate the down time.also i have my slipper almost all the way turned in and it still feels like its slipping to much.im not a newbie at this and i probably have over $2500 into this muther efin thing.what the fork is going on here. :mad:

RCBASHERFREAK50

04-02-2005, 01:07 AM

well, the savage is a beast. And a tip...you dont need to take the rear end off to take ff the engine. My freind had this happen. there is a litle spring on the pin, when the spring breaks the pin falls, the spring is the same as the ones on a lighter.

savagemachine

04-02-2005, 12:07 PM

Sorry to hear that you have got so many problems with your savage we have got the savages 25ss and race these beast and do not actually have that many problems with them to be all honest with you.

Have you checked the slipper pad on the inside of the spur gear to make sure that this has not worn or melted away at all this could be 1 problem thats causing your slipper to slip. Also tighten the slipper nut up as far as it will go and then AND ONLY THEN back it of no more than 1/8th of a turn as they do intend to back themselves off.

Try these couple of things and if still no luck get back to me and ill see what else i can come up with to try to help you out.

Hope this helps you a little

Savagemachine :D

kitty

04-02-2005, 11:13 PM

55018: as long as the brakes are installed correctly (the HPI duals can be a pain to install), there should not be enough play for the brass puck to fall out. That is the only way the aluminum rod can pull out other than it breaking, which is highly unlikely. I agree with savagemachine about the slipper. Definitely check the pad and replace it if the existing one is glazed or worse. Keep a spare end nut or two on hand. Once you've tightened and loosened it enough times, the nylock ring in it wears out, making it basically a regular nut at that point.

Take a few deep breaths, bro. Chalk it up to experience. If you need any more help, some of us are here for ya!

basherfreak: he's talking about the brake pin, not the engine starter pin/spring. You are right about that spring, though. It's happened to a few people, including me. The spring in mine broke off and toasted the engine's internals. It wasn't pretty.

55018speed

04-02-2005, 11:54 PM

i still cant believe the aluminum rod popped off the piston.i think i know why i installed a different rollbar that is thicker at the bottom and i think the braking linkage was being pushed towards the outside of the frame.that probably had something to do with it? i might just get a new piston and aluminum rod so when i dismantle it again it will lessen the chances of future failure after the fix.ok now the slipper issue,i tightened it all the way down then came off it about a 1/2 inch.i guess i will try what savage machine says with the 1/8 inch.ok thanx guys i will let youze know how i make out with this thing.i put a 24.7 pro in it about 6 months ago and still have not got to really play with it without something efing up.

zakerid

04-03-2005, 08:54 PM

55018- If I had to guess the brakes weren't installed correctly. There is no way that the linkage should be able to "throw" that far. You may aslo need a new slipper pad or try to scuff the pad if it isn't too badly worn,

badboy2

04-04-2005, 01:48 AM

i considered myself as a semi newbie when it comes to this but i did my brakes myself and had no problems with it..maybe u just did something wrong

Ball Racing

04-04-2005, 02:46 PM

The stock slipper is junk,
Rock Concepts just tightens it as far as it will go, and add another nut to jam against the first.

Natedog

04-05-2005, 03:03 AM

Stock slipper is fine as long as you tighten it all the way...I mean really tighten it (and put a bit of blue Loctite on the nut first) and then loosen no more than 1/8 TURN (not INCH)!

And like was said, that al brake rod can't fall out unless it is worn out or not fully installed properly so that the brass puck retains the al rod by the kinda thin little lip at the very end of the rod. ONce fully seated, hold the rod and all in by pushing in on the brass puck and assemble the brake pads and rotors without letting the rod slip out past the little lip at the end.

HTH

kitty

04-05-2005, 04:52 PM

Nate baby! hehehe

What does HTH stand for? I've seen that numerous times before but never asked.

More fun with Savage brake rods - went to disassemble my truck a few nights ago so I can give it a really good cleaning while waiting on some parts (including some new prototype LCG/extended TVPs woot!) and found that hex in the tiny little grub screw had stripped out inside the rod - the one that holds the lever in. What a bugger. It's not something I can't work around, but it's still a bummer.

Natedog

04-06-2005, 12:31 AM

Hey Kitty! Hehehe, good to talk with ya again!

HTH = Hope that helps. :)

Ah, I'm always careful with that setscrew but it's only a matter of time before I strip one out too...lol. I always use the ol blue Loctite too, especially since it's a tiny steel screw threading into aluminum and I can't really torque it down.

55018speed

04-06-2005, 11:31 AM

ok i picked up a new cam and piston for the brakes.i will perform surgery later today and let you guys know how the patient recovers.

kitty

04-07-2005, 06:51 PM

55018, I'm sure your baby will pull through and be back screaming down the road again soon =)

Nate, thanks for the help with the acronym. Why they put such a small, cheesy grub screw in like that is beyond me. Looks like the brake rod assembly was one of those "Did we forget anything on this truck? What? We forgot to put brakes on it?!" afterthought things. It's downright goofy. If you don't tighten the grub screw in enough, the pull rod slips out. Tighten it too much and the hex strips. It even bent the tip of my Titanium nitride-tipped hex driver trying to remove that stupid 1.5mm hex hole thing. In my opinion, it's the metal-to-metal contact between two dissimilar metals. They like to oxidise and with that tiny grub screw set in so far into the aluminum, it's just asking to be oxidised into a mess. /rant.

55018speed

04-08-2005, 06:16 PM

"wahhhh" why me "wahhhh" ok after going to hobbytown to get another hpi dual setup i got home and changed my transmission housing because the holes were stripped and i wanted this installation to go smooth as possible,and it did i even changed my pinion gear.everything was just lovely until i went to fire it up.turns out the roto start was just spinning at the back of the engine and not turning the piston.i took it apart and im not sure if anything is broken or not but it just doesnt look rite.*** is going on!!!

kitty

04-08-2005, 06:23 PM

Ah, the dreaded thrashed-by-the-roto-start one way bearing. Pull the RS back plate off and inspect the one way bearing. Clean it well then look for a hairline crack in the case or something awry with the roller pins inside. If the bearing looks okay, put it back on the starter shaft and try turning it both ways. Sometimes they just need a good cleaning (engine oil seeps past the backplate) and sometimes the one way goes bad. Good luck to you and I hope it just needs a good cleaning.

55018speed

04-10-2005, 11:37 AM

Natedog

04-10-2005, 04:18 PM

hey kitty is the piece that locks on the piston supposed to spin freely on the roto start shaft?it seems that when you engage the roto start that piece does not spin as much as it should?if i knew how to post a pix i would show you what im talking about.

Do you mean the starter shaft inside the back of the engine that engages a pin on the end of the crankshaft? If so, that should spin with the engine...then that is spun by the rotostart or pullstart to start the engine...when the engine is running it spins faster than the rotostart and therefore just spins inside the one-way bearing.

MAXX2.5

04-10-2005, 07:27 PM

ok natedog heres the story i sprayed the one way with cleaner and it seemed to be working ok then i installed my 24.7 with the roto start adaptor into the savage and i engaged the rotostart and it fired right up then died.engaged the roto start again and same thing as before just spinning and not cranking.should i just buy a whole new starter assembely and will it come with a roto start adapter or do i get a pull start or do i take my sledghammer and bust this muther efin thing into pces?

MAXX2.5

04-10-2005, 07:28 PM

oh sorry i posted that under my sons id

sorry todd

55018speed

04-10-2005, 08:24 PM

also where can i get the backplate assembely?

badboy2

04-10-2005, 08:28 PM

well my headaches is not on my trucks its on the engine idk if u consider that a truck problem but i still dont give up ,i was like u too and if lose my patience i just bring it to hs and my problem solved :)

Natedog

04-10-2005, 08:31 PM

Don't know what all comes with roto...I use PS and love it.

When using any engine other than HPI, you need to check endplay of oneway bearing etc on the new engine. I've heard of new engines gettin chewed up by doing this and not takeing the time to properly shim (if needed) the oneway etc.