How to power Stadium Truck for high HP bashing?

[RobK]

Hello all,

I also posted this in the electric forum--hope this doesn't make anyone pissed off.

I'm a little frustrated. I have a Losi XXX-T MF that I like to bash a lot on the street, with street tires--incl making some smoking trails off the tires :D Yea, I know I'm hard on the car, but it's fun.

However, the problem is keeping the various mod motors I have tried cool enough for a long bashing session. I recently purchased an Orion Revolution 9x1 motor that has great power, but it heats up pretty quick. I use the stock spur gear (red), and have varied the pinion gear from 11 to 21. The diff is adjusted right (after burning up the last one), and the slipper is adjusted to give a nice whine off the line & fast takeoff.

My problem is that I want the power of a low turn modified, with the ability to bash for long periods of time (3-4 battery packs?) without burning up the motor. My ESC (Novak Dually) & batteries seem to be holding up to the abuse just fine (~130-140 degrees). The 9x1 very quickly gets to 160+ regardless of gearing, where I have to end my fun without even using up one battery pack. Do I just need to drop in a long can brushless, or what? Thanks.

-Rob

[RobK]

BTW, I should have mentioned a few other details:

I have gone through the entire vehicle making sure it's bind-free. Bearings are new in the wheels & transmission, wheels don't bind, etc.

I live in Phoenix, AZ, where ambients can often get 110+ in the summer. I would rather be able to continue to play in the summer too. The measurements I gave in my post reflect ambients in the ~80ish range.

Obviously I need a setup with a lot of head room given ambients & my hard driving style.

-Rob

[TimisTim]

A long can brushless owuld be a little to much weight for the truck and would have an adverse effect on weight dispersion. The short cans should be plenty. I have the same truck as you and I used a Feigao 7s and a U-Force 75 in texas heat with great success. Undergear it a little like an 18-19/86 and it will run all day while mabey needing a couple minute cool down after several consecutive packs. My controller would tend to heat up after this but I installed a computer fan from a power supply on it and it cooled down. You could mount a fan on the controller (I just glued the fan to a piece of an old record that I had laying around and then glued it to the case of my controller) but those low turn modifieds get pretty hot themselves.

[TBone77]

Novak Super Sport 5800 ($220 for the whole system). It has PLENTY of torque and not only will the motor not overheat, you'll get a LOT more time out of your packs.

The ESC gets warm, but as long as you're reasonable on your gearing, it won't be a problem.

[Craps]

You guys can preach about the Novak is great all you want to, but I don't think the sensored motor can take the abuse of off road racing. I am seeing the racers with the Novak systems having problems of thermalling even with a fans on the motor and the ESC. The sensors get damaged from the abuse. I expect the Reedy Neo will have the same problems too!

The Novak racers are getting ready to switch over to the Schulze/Plettenberg combo that has alot more power and is designed for long run times without fans. The Novak for $220 is you get what you pay for! A cheap Brushless System!

[ducati777]

You mean the cheapest isn't the best? ;)

[TBone77]

:rolleyes:

[ElectricThunder]

Novak Super Sport 5800 ($220 for the whole system). It has PLENTY of torque and not only will the motor not overheat, you'll get a LOT more time out of your packs.

The ESC gets warm, but as long as you're reasonable on your gearing, it won't be a problem.
On the contrary, running this combo in my Rusty geared 15/90 makes the motor still very hot as well as the ESC (I'm in Florida where the temp is about mid 80s on the average.) So being that temps for me and Rob are about the same at the moment (AZ is probably drier and a bit hotter now than florida), I'd suggest not getting the Novak. It's sensitive to gearing and thermaling is easy to do if your temps are gonna reach 110 in the summers! :eek: The motor got pretty warm geared 17/90 in my T3 as well, so it's not just the Rusty. It was a TINY bit cooler, but still, I couldn't keep my finger on it for more than 4-5 seconds, if that.

I'd suggest a Feigao "s" can (something like an 8s, equivalent to a good 12 turn motor with much more torque), but run it with a BIG heatsink on it (something from trinity or the AE heatsink with the fan thingy would be great. Also an MGM 8012 would handle it nicely, and put a fan on that as well.:)

[starluckrc]

Got a Twist 4200 here with finned heatsink that would be a good option as well.

[WheelNut]

As far as the Novak goes I've had mine for 2 years now, and its never given me any problems. I've never thermalled it, and I race it in my rc10t4, it works great. But the Novak is indeed not very fast, any low turn brushed motor will put it to shame. I'd like to goto a Reedy sphere/Neo one or a Feigao 9s/Shculze U-force, but I don't have the cash to buy a new motor for my ST.

[RobK]

Thanks for the advice guys. After reading some of the other posts as well, I'm now seriously considering the Uforce 75 + one of the Plettenberg motors--just got to figure out how to raise the cash--ebay here I come.

From what I've read I don't think I'll be happy with just a Novak 5800--too slow. I'm a speed / bashing nut--can't have too much HP. The 9 turn hand-wound single I have is decent so I don't want to go any slower than that, and more would be most welcome.

Is there a cheaper controller that would work reliably with this Extreme Plettenberg? ~$300 for the controller is a lot! How about the MGM 8012, or would that cook?