Tamiya DT-02 Thread

[Super Chump]

Quick tire update: the front spiked tires for the Traxxas Bandit work just fine on the DT-02 and do not appear to need gluing. I ran thru two battery packs on mixed sand / dirt, and they held just fine w/o glue and drastically helped the understeer problem.

Are you using the stock front rims with the Bandit tires?

[swannco]

yes i'm using the stock front rims and the tires work great, but i did end up gluing them down. they r only $8/pair for the traxxas tires! :D

[Super Chump]

yes i'm using the stock front rims and the tires work great, but i did end up gluing them down. they r only $8/pair for the traxxas tires! :D

Thanks mate, will have to track some down :cool:

[mars6484]

hello everyone~~

thanx for the input about the tires guyz! coz my tamiya tires realllllllllllllllllly suck!!!! they are like a tiny bit better than my bold original tires!
yeh anyway i think i'll buy both bow tie and dirt hawgs! the delivery charge is like $20 so i think i should buy at least 2 or 3 things!!

yeh my suspension is a lil dodgey after i moved forward the wheels~~ but i'm buyin a rebuild kit so it only costs mel ike $10~~ hehe but i dun think it really matters coz most buggys i have found have wheels in front of the bumper anyway~~

[diggernz]

I have tamiya spire spike cheapys on my DT02 and they are really great off raod and grass. no concrete of course. I saw a RCmmate using them at the BMX track and they were great, held up very very well compared to my Kyosho micro pin which were worn out in about 45 minutes. damn it. THen my BZ just couldnt hook up with the loose surface and bald tyres. I was stuffed. Spire Spike Tamiya tyres. Bloody great. I can do wheelies on the grass with these they grip so well.

[mars6484]

I was scared to buy those spiked tires coz I thought they were the same as the ones i got stock with the car~~ I guess not bcoz the stock ones ran out in 2 runs~~ hahaha

I went out a few times with my friend who revived his super hornet~~ his got a stock can and his car weighs quite a bit less than the dt02 i think and his car is definitely faster than mine with a sport tuned in it~~ I'm just wondering if maybe i got a dodgey motor? or maybe it bcoz I didn't run it in?

I dunno if its coz I want more speed but i find the sport tuned with 19T a bit slow~~ i think it does about 40km/h and i think the acceleration is quite poor~~ I was just curious if its my car or my motor that has a problem or if its just me wanting more speed~~ hehe

[Nenzi]

Hey guys,

Well the MS has only just hit the streets and Tamiya has unveiled another DT-02. The Neo Falcon. Neo was used with the Top Force and was basically a super hopped up kit, so maybe this will be better than the MS:confused: But, the Avante MkII was just a new shell and wheels on a DF-03 chassis, so we may just have the next Sand Viper, with similar colours/decals as the old Tamiya Falcon.
As for shells, if it is a more racing version kit, I hope they go back to the Desert Gator body or similar :rolleyes:

[RoadrashAZ]

Looks like it is the same car with a different body. The body is kinda ugly though...look here:

http://www.tamiya.ca/58401%20NEO%20FALCON%20DT-02.htm

Am I the only one that's hoping that Tamiya will make a high end competition level 2WD buggy?

[Nenzi]

Oh noo, that body is horrible. Reminds me of the cheap rc cars in toy shops!
Don't know why you'd just keep releasing the same car with a different body - the market must be a lot bigger than people realise.

I've been waiting for a competitive 2wd from tamiya for ages! Looks like I either have to get a new 4wd Durga (awesome looking buggy) or build myself a hybrid madcap/astute, to try and shake a few Losi and B4 heads :eek:
Now this is a nice buggy!!! http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=61439&id=15962

and this one: http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=52030&id=15407

[diggernz]

Hey DT-02 owners,

Does anyone know why my GT tuned motor has a 0 and a line stamped onto the can.....the line is in line with one of four notches on the black plastic of the bell end, end. A bit hard to explain so sorry if I have totaly confused you all. It looks like you can line the 0 up with the other notches by twisting the can??? dialling it in????

cheers guys.
The Tamiya GT motor does NOT have adjustable timing. When you adjust timing on a motor with adjustable timing, you only move it a few degrees at a time. Those notches are to make the timing fixed and tamper proof. Do not try and adjust the timing on any motor with a notched end bell as you will stuff them. So all GT motors, and motors with fixed timing, which is most motors except higher end mod motors, should perform simalarly. This is not always the case with motors performing the same, I have two BZ motors and one kicks the others arse,its way quicker.I've run it in the same car with the same gearing and same batteries and the difference can be quite shocking.
Zero timing is mild and easier on brushes, coms and electronics, 19turn spec mod motors have very aggresive timing, hence they often out perform lower turn motors. Same as the quick 27turn stock motors, timing wound up to get the most out of a stock 27 turn race spec motor.
And that new DT02 body is not nice at all, Im not a fan of most of those mini 4wd bodies anyway. The original body is still the nicest IMO.

[swannco]

Greetings to all you Dt-02ers,

Does anybody own both a dt-02 and a B-4 or a losi 2wd buggy [heck, even a raven or evader]? I am wondering if somebody could do a quick body swap and let me know if these bodies are interchangeable, or at least close enough to tweak. I cannot find tamiya bodies anywhere and I need a new one, BUT I do see tons of b-4 bodies that look really close on ebay.

Thanks for the help.

[federx]

here's my martini sand viper :)

http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/3714/sv1eh4.jpg
http://img511.imageshack.us/img511/2816/sv2we5.jpg
http://img407.imageshack.us/img407/4954/sv3kc1.jpg

[Rear Admiral]

Great, classic look! There should be more like it...

[toonz]

quite a nice viper u got there! nice!

[federx]

she's now in my car full of mud, ahahahah

really enjoy this little thing, it's my launch pause entertainer near my work.
it handles well but i don't know why with an intellect 4200 battery it runs 15 minutes. maybe the battery is too new...don't know.
silver can motor...

[diggernz]

she's now in my car full of mud, ahahahah

really enjoy this little thing, it's my launch pause entertainer near my work.
it handles well but i don't know why with an intellect 4200 battery it runs 15 minutes. maybe the battery is too new...don't know.
silver can motor...
NIMH batts need a slow charge for the first few charges. like 1 to 2 amps max and full discharge in the car till it wont work properly. slow recharge. If you throw 5 amps in them straight away they may never reach their full capacity. Cheaper batteries hype up the mah ratings too.

[federx]

no, iv'e charged @ 3A
nobody told mt to use 1A :-(

[Rear Admiral]

Some manufacturers recommend lower charge rates for the first few charges, but it's usually around 3-3.5A. I'm sure you won't have damaged your pack.

Here's a link to Novak's battery care sheet-

http://www.teamnovak.com/download/instructions/pdfs/bat_care_sheet.pdf

[federx]

ahahahahaha
pretty cold and wet winter here...
i will clean in March :D

http://img127.imageshack.us/img127/7770/img4223rg5.jpg

still undecided to buy the trf dt02 or tamiya durga next year...

[Rear Admiral]

I'm going for the Durga - I've already got a TA05, and that's fantastic, so I think the Durga should be a great package.

[federx]

i have the ta05 for the track use too...
and that's what i've thought!

i will take that car too

[ntrudr_800]

Wassuuup!
I started running my Sand viper again!

I tried some odd 27-turn Epic motor my friend gave me versus the stock 540 (540 is a throw-away or backup motor) and I must say it made a big difference in top speed. I estimate a 5mph+ top speed increase-with a questionable motor (I had to resolder joints and I have not checked the replaceable brushes it came with). Truly, it was actually enjoyable versus the stock 540.

However, I had to switch back to stock due to radio interference. When I pinned the throttle with the Epic, the buggy would turn hard left! It would stay there and continue to be undrivable...? And stock sucks! This buggy is made to go faster.

I am in the market for a new body (Tamiya was out last time I checked) and plan on doing a better paint job. I have some pics in earlier posts you can check out. My Sand Viper is Orange -- the original paint job I did looks good but I had forgotten to clear out the windows (black sticker windows).

I read that traxxas Bandit wheels fit the front and fix understeer.
I beleieve that Pro-Line 2.2 Wheels fit the rear? I need new rears and better fronts - am on stock still. Plan to purchase.

Oh, by the way, the Sand Viper is the toughest r/c I have ever owned. I tear it up and have broken nothing on it. Maybe it's because I am not hitting 30mph yet?

I have found a new problem area! I do not know the name but the upper rods above the rear and front arms that have screws going into ball joints need to be thread-locked. They come loose, and when they do your tire will flop over sideways rendering the machine undriveable. There are 8 points to thread lock. If you do not have thread lock check and tighten if needed after each run because they WILL come loose. I was lucky not to lose the screws both times it happened to me (It was first the rear right wheel then the front right)! I would have had to order the screws--there are no extras in the kit.

I have some pics of my Viper as well as my Nitro-TC3 Team Kit and Stampede on posts 23-25 I believe. Check 'em out.

-n

[swannco]

ntrudr,

i think i'm having the same screw backing out problem, do u have pix of which ones so i can see for sure? does threadlock [similar to lockite i assume??] work on plastic? i thought maybe the plastic had stripped out, cause there's nothing metal behind it right?

i'm also wanting a new body and was wondering if a b4 would be a possible substitute. i just can't find a stock dt-02 body anywhere. lemme know if u do please! :) wings r also a problem and i was looking for a source / sub. still really liking the bandit tires, glad to see u might try them.

i'm in withdrawal b/c there's too much snow to play, so i bought a mini and a twin detonator to build up / hop up during the winter. [u know, if u can't play, u might as well spend and hop-up, right? right?? that's my story and i'm stickin' to it...]

[rsclio]

Hi guys ,
just getting a SAnd Viper together for my son
My question is what pitch is the pinion - I thought they were Tamiya AV but nope seems to be very coarse
Cheers
Mike

[federx]

i used loctite red, as i was tired.
with everything locked it keeps going and going and going

[ntrudr_800]

Federx, your Martini Sand Viper looks awesome...

USE BLUE THREAD LOCK

Red is permanent like glue. Blue should let loose if you need to back out them screws.

Loctite is a brand of thread lock. It is okay to use different brand thread lock as long as it is not like super glue and lets you back out them screws. It is only effective on metal-to-metal screw connections not metal screws to plastic. Wash your hands after using it--it's not good for your skin.

The gear on the motor has 17 teeth stock. Not 19. Count 'em to be sure.

I figured out that the radio problems I was having are due to my Hitec Agressor FM radio system after I had switched to my Traxxas AM system from my Stampede. The cheap Traxxas system works perfect while the Hitec is glitching horribly all over the place. I have already sent the transmitter in once to get it fixed... this is my last Hitec...sheesh. I switched back to the 27-turn motor and am enjoying its speed. My stock motor has gotten ssllooww...

With this 27-turn motor I can get some good air off a skateboard ramp. The stock motor is a throw-away/back-up.

I have not ordered tires yet... have not had an e-mail on any new bodies either. I am fixing to move into a new house and it is almost Christmas so I am not in a hurry to hop-up my SV... though I want to soooo bad.

I would like to know what those Evader tires are like that you are using. Do they wear quick? Are they pin or groove type tires (groove, right?)? Do they really grip much better? I'll take grip over wear but I don't want to wear them out in a run or two...

Super Fighter G Bodies should fit as well as the Desert Gator bodies (I think Desert Gator is discontinued) I believe -- I like the Sand Viper. I'm sure we all do. Even the name is sweet. It is designed to run in the sand though ...duh... that's why we are having trouble with its stock tires on the street.

Just to be sure -- Is there a way to mount Pro-Line Buggy Dirt Hawg II tires on the front? Oh how I would love to...

I recently discovered the Novak Elektra ESC my friend gave me handles down to 15-turn motors! Sweeeeet.

If I can insert an image without using Photobucket let me know.

http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg298/ntrudr_800/CIMG1265.jpg
http://i251.photobucket.com/albums/gg298/ntrudr_800/CIMG1260.jpg
Bottom quickpic is curent condition of ntrudr_800's SV.

[federx]

if loctite red is permanent my sand viepr is something very glued. ah ah ah

[swannco]

Thanks for the tips guys guys, I'll try some threadlock!

I run dirt hawgs on the back and stocks on the front for mixed pavement / dirt bashing. I think dirt hawgs will work on the front too. In the dirt though, I LOVE the Traxxas spikes. They wear pretty well on dirt and grass but I wouldn't give them 10 minutes on asphalt!

[Rear Admiral]

Dirt Hawg fronts are miles ahead of ribs on pavement - the difference is night and day - and they're surprisingly good on dirt too. The Hawgs give a little more ground clearance than the ribs, so are handy for gravelly/stoney ground. They are a touch heavier though, which can make the car tend to jump a little nose-down if you haven't got the component weight spread around the car carefully, and a bit wider - I run them on my Evader BX but have to use Velocity B4 Wide wheels.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hi all.
Hope you all had a great Christmas Day, and received loads of R/C goodies. I know I didn't. Anyway, treated my Gator to a BZ motor, some Deans plugs, and a set of DF-02 Assembly Universal Shafts. Well I won a video competition on my local R/C internet club for the most extreme manouvers. Used the Gator of course, and my prize was any motor of my choice. The universals are just a extra pressie for my favorite bashin` buggy.

I see there's some talk about front tires. I'm using Tamiya Super Astute wheels all `round, Tamiya SuperShot rear tires, (bit of a struggle getting them on to the rims) and Super Astute front tires on my beastie. (see page 36 of this thread) Talk about turning corners in a hurry, even on the pavement. In-fact, got a bit of drift action happening today, on my neighbours driveway. Nice new slippery concrete. Even my step-daughters boyfriend was impressed, so impressed he's going to get a Gator. That's another one converted, now to work on the rest of the world. hehehe

Oh well best get going, it's neally 1:00am. Catch up soon lads/lasses, will post some pics of the new editions to the Gator soon. Expecting them to arrive tomorrow.

L8R Gators'

Del

[diggernz]

Hi Del. I just bought a hornet for $69 for a really cool chassis. I know this isnt the hornet forum.mAnd itll be no match for my Gator. I think youll like the BZ Del. Use the 17tooth pinion mate cause I rekon itll strip out the gear with the 18 tooths not perfect mesh. Still the toughest buggy bar none IMO. What more could you ask for for a first buggy and intro to RC. wish I had bought a Gator first off.
http://images.onesite.com/diggernz.rcmate.org/56527698_full.jpg


http://images.onesite.com/diggernz.rcmate.org/56527593_full.jpg

[toonz]

the BZ is a good motor and i've been using it in my dark impact for a long time already....

del you finally have a universal! good, you'll like how it drives with constant velocity!

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hey Dave, good score with the Hornet. Looks tidy.

Toonz & Dave, The BZ is insane, I f*&^%n love it. It's crazy fast. The universals were a doddle to put together, only thing is, I lost the kit drive-cups and can't use the Ball-Diff at the moment. Seems the ball-diff and the drive cups that come with it push the rear hubs out that far that the Gator ends up with a negitive camber rear end. For now I'll just use the kit diff, and Ball Diff drive cups. Seems to work a treat. I'll get some TT-01 drive cups as they're a little shorter. For now it just haulin` arse, and it's great. Almost forgot how much I love the Gator. Been mucking about with my M04L Beetle, locked the diff on it. Now it's almost my dream 2wd drift machine.

L8R Gators
Del

[toonz]

del, try not to match the gear diff with ball diff joint cos the ball joint is in different length compared with the gear diff joint and you will lose some drives that may damage your drivetrain eventually.

ball diff with ball diff joint
and gear diff with gear diff joint :)

[diggernz]

i think the cv set is a bit shorter and needs the standard drive cups. correct me if im wrong guys.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Guys. FOUND THEM.

Kit drive cups are longer than ball-diff drive cups. And it works out that the ball-diff drive cups (with ball-diff) work with uni's. So now it's all sorted. Looks like I used the kit drive cups with the ball-diff and uni's, not the way I explained in the previous post. Snapped my servo saver yesturday, clipped a rock in my garden at full speed, and lost all steering. All fixed now though, found a spare, not the proper one but it'll do for now. Also just ordered the 19 tooth pinion, it seems it's from the Fighter Buggy kit. Here's the part number, if any-one's interested........3515007. Found it on Tamiya USA's site.

L8R Gators'
Del

[diggernz]

your ESC will heat up with a 19 tooth if it hasnt got the room to stretch its legs, You have a futaba ESC tho dont you? a 230 or 330? anyway I run my tamiya esc with the BZ on a 17tooth and it getts so hot I cant touch it. I let it rest a bit then. I aint got a decent spare with wires at the mo.

[TamiyaRacer69]

ESC doesn't get hot at all. The motor does though, burnt my finger today. Mind you, I've been running it non-stop pretty much. Yeah I am running a Futaba ESC. I've chewed out two 17 tooth pinions, and a set of rear tires in two days, lots of skids out on the road. And a few drifties on the neighbours drive. LOVE IT!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

L8R Gators
Del

[toonz]

ball diff + ball diff joint

and

gear diff + gear diff joint


they both will work with the df-02 universal.

i've tried them both, they work and you don't have to insert any o-rings into the diff joints at all.:)

[TamiyaRacer69]

Here's a question for you all. How on earth are you supposed to fit the foam cover on the BZ, when there's no room to fit it??? I don't want to destroy the BZ by not keeping he dirt out.

[m0ng00se]

Hey guys,

Im totally new to this, and the desert gator is my first proper r/c car. I got it for x-mas, and its an awesome car. What is the fastest engine that this car can take(for under $100), and how much does it cost? Can these type of cars reach a top end of close to 35 mp/h?

I'd like to upgrade my engine to as high a speed as i can afford :D , so what would u guys recommend? I'd probably need to upgrade my battery pack and suspension as well, seeing that these are all still standard.

Lastly I'd like to know the range of my remote control. I'm using a Futaba T2ER, and I haven't been able to find an end to its range, kept running out of room :D .

I'd really appreciate any help.

[TamiyaRacer69]

:wave: Welcome m0ng00se.

Merry Christmas and a Happy New Year.:) You'll love the Gator, it's one of the best Tamiya have done since, in my opinion the Blitzer Beetle.
You can put just about any motor in it you like, just as long as the ESC can handle it. The Tamiya TEU101BK is good, but has a tendency to over-heat if you run a powerful motor such as Super Stock RZ, BZ etc. I ran a RZ with the TEU and it got that hot that it shut down, then after that it wasn't the same. I upgraded to a Futaba MC230CR and a BZ motor (designed for buggys) and now it's "the fastest buggy in my street":D:D BZ motors are about $52.00 here in New Zealand, but that's from my mate who imports Tamiya cars and parts. In my LHS they're selling them for $64.00:eek:
As for range, it depends on what's around you, ie: things that cause radio interference. I can run my Gator the length of my street, approx 400meters, without any problems, lucky I guess. Also it makes a difference as to how good the battries are in you transmitter.

Hope this helps a little. Enjoy your Gator, I know you will.:D:cool::D

Del

L8R Gator :cool:
Del

[Rear Admiral]

The cost of a new motor won't be too high - it's the cost of a speed controller that can handle a hot motor that's the problem... You'll fry the stock Tamiya ESC if you go to a motor with many less turns (generally, fewer turns=faster motor).

Remember that the faster you go, the more likely you'll crash, and the more likely you'll bust something when you do. If this is your first car, I'd recommend running the stock ESC and silver can motor for a while, so you can polish your driving and car control before you make the leap to higher speeds.

Another consideration is run time - your battery won't last for anywhere near as long with a fast motor as the silver can - and high capacity/discharge batteries are expensive.

If $100 is your budget, you could start by looking at something like a Duratrax Intellispeed 12 turn ESC (around $55 on eBay from Moonyez) and a motor like an Orion Method 13t (abt $30). This'll leave you a bit to put towards spares, or maybe some new shocks.

But first, get out there and have some fun driving that Gator as-is. More speed isn't necessarily more fun - set yourself some twisty technical courses to master, and you'll get more satisfaction (not to mention skill) than just blasting up and down the road.

Hope this helps.

[TamiyaRacer69]

Runtime is a factor, as Rear Admiral pointed out. I'm running 3300MaH and 2400MaH batteries in my Gator. I bought a Peak Charger about 3 months ago, and after charging for the suggested 15mins (I charge my batteries for 20mins) I put the battery on the peak charger. I'm getting 20mins plus out of my batteries running a BZ motor and 17 tooth pinion. That's something else to consider, a Peak Charger. Doesn't really matter which one, as long as it's a good one.

L8R Gators
Del

[toonz]

just stay in the range of 19-23 turns motor and you will be happy cos after all the DT02 is fast out of the box with a silver can :D

[thecraze]

Hey guys. I'm new to this forum, and back from a (long) break in RC. I looked at all the cars, and I've been a long time Tamiya fan. To let you know how long a break, the last car I had was the original Astute when it first came out!

I bought the Sand Viper, and all I can say is wow... this thing can take a beating. After the first couple of days I ordered stabilizers, Sport Tuned motor, ball diff, 19t pinion, and turnbuckles... just waiting for them to arrive. It's good to see so many people that appreciate Tamiya on here, on other forums all I saw were people complaining about them. What's the fun in RC if you can't bash around with your car too?

I have a question. If I get a BZ, can I use the heat sink, or is the motor too short? Thanks in advance.

[thecraze]

And not long after I posted here, did the turnbuckles and 19t pinion arrive! It's got some kick with that pinion.

[m0ng00se]

Thx a lot guys. If i look at my chassis i can believe my driving needs polishing. :D

[thecraze]

A Tamiya is perfect for polishing driving ability, Mongoose! I know, I've had a few of them when I started RC cars.

[Rear Admiral]

For those who might still remember them, I started with the great-grandfather of the DT02 - a Tamiya Fox, back in abt '86...

[toonz]

i started with the ancestor of DT02 - The Hornet :D

[thecraze]

The Fox was a sweet car. I raced a Fox on my block with the Striker when I was a kid, and lost when my servo saver popped off from the bolt I didn't tighten enough.

[thecraze]

And this is only because I missed the funny and weird sayings Tamiya put on their spoilers...

[m0ng00se]

Hey guys, would u recommend upgrading to the rs-540 sport-tuned motor? or are there other motors i shud rather look at?

[TamiyaRacer69]

m0ng00se.
It depends on how fast you wanna go, there really is no-limit. Don't forget, 'the faster you go the shorted the run-time'
Toonz, if you started with 'the ancestor Hornet" what catagory would the Grass Hopper fall into (prehistoric). That was my first Tamiya.

[thecraze]

My first Tamiya was the Lunchbox. An old high school buddy had the Grasshopper.

If I may, what are everyone's first Tamiyas?

[diggernz]

Here's a question for you all. How on earth are you supposed to fit the foam cover on the BZ, when there's no room to fit it??? I don't want to destroy the BZ by not keeping he dirt out.

I dont use it on my desert gator, Just give it a good blow out with compressed air after a session. Then oil the bearing and its all good. Can you put the cover on 1st then install the motor?I did that with the motor in a dirt trasher Ive got.

[diggernz]

Hey guys, would u recommend upgrading to the rs-540 sport-tuned motor? or are there other motors i shud rather look at?
Tamiya BZ

[thecraze]

Diggernz, would it be bad to put in an RZ?

[m0ng00se]

Wow, this is really a cool car! Im havin tons of fun. My rear tyres are already worn out, so id guess this can turn into an expensive hobby :D if i upgrade to a BZ id have to uPgrade my esc aswel. will i have to upgrade my esc when i instal the 540 sport tuned? btw, whats the price difference between the two? and wont the motors get damaged when u go offroad? the stock motor isnt really protected and has a opening where dirt can get in?

[toonz]

del, the grasshopper, i call it 2WD-Origin :D

[toonz]

no point putting the sponge cover cos the end-bell will still get dirty. regular cleaning and taking it apart and checking of brushes will prolong the BZ :) mine is still alive....

[thecraze]

I have a Sport Tuned coming in any day now. Is the BZ the best for the stock ESC?

[toonz]

ok guys...lots of Qs on the sport tuned/BZ/stock ESC.....

if you read the TEU101bk esc manual, it says the esc can run up to sport tuned motor and its also able to handle the BZ/TZ/RZ/dirt tuned motors. many have tested this esc with a 19 turn motor but that's at your own risk. i will only use this esc with a sport tuned and my other buggies are running BZ with futaba330cr that can take up to 13 turn motor.

[thecraze]

Thanks Toonz.

[diggernz]

I have a Sport Tuned coming in any day now. Is the BZ the best for the stock ESC?
the sports tuned will be quicker, not a lot but the TEU101 standard esc will handle it. You will cook your standard tamiya ESC with a BZ. sooner or later you will cook it. Maybe not straight away but usually when your having the most fun you've had for ages, thats when it will stuff out. (murphy's law). Remember to let the ESC cool down if it gets so hot it burns your finger. Get a duratrac intellispeed of a futaba MC3, these are good value for money and will allow you to run up to 18 turn motors. Off roader are alot harder on electronics and draw alot more current most of the time that an onroad touring car. Hence all these newbies go "My tamiya ESC handles my RZ/TZ sweet as" Put it in a race with some corners and a few hard braking spots and watch that ESC heat up and start to cook.High speed running up and down your street doesnt make an ESC work hard. It's all the hard accelerating and braking that draws current and heats up the ESC.

[thecraze]

Thanks, also, Diggernz.

[m0ng00se]

Thx. is a 4.5 the lowest turn motor?

[thecraze]

Mongoose, I don't think you should jump to a 4.5 turn motor. I think you should work your way to it. But that's just my opinion.

[m0ng00se]

hehe, i doubt ill ever install a 4.5 motor :D . thing is, im totally new to this and trying to find out whats available. can someone point me to a tutorial or a site explaining the different types of motors, turns, etc? wud really appreciate it.

[toonz]

don't even think of running 4.5 in a Dt02. its gear ratio is not going to react to it. metla (our member here) has ever pointed out that the Dt02 is at its best with a 19 turn motor and that's about it. its also good enough even with a 23turn motor.

:D

[thecraze]

I've been trying to figure out the gear ratio for my Sand Viper. Am I doing this right? spur gear / pinion * tire diameter (I am not counting the spikes on the tires...3.2 inches). I get 10.35:1 with a 17t pinion.

[nexzzt]

Hello, can someone please point me in the right direction for buying dt-02 bodies. I don't really care which one, just need a body. Also, if there are bodies from other models that work I would be interested in them too. Im in Australia, so would prefer to buy locally, but wouldn't rule out buying OS

Cheers

[toonz]

I've been trying to figure out the gear ratio for my Sand Viper. Am I doing this right? spur gear / pinion * tire diameter (I am not counting the spikes on the tires...3.2 inches). I get 10.35:1 with a 17t pinion.

17pinion is 9.28:1
19pinion is 8.3:1

http://www.tam.ne.jp/nic/dt-02/dt-02e.html (linky thanks to Grahoo!):teacher:

[JDT]

Hello, can someone please point me in the right direction for buying dt-02 bodies. I don't really care which one, just need a body. Also, if there are bodies from other models that work I would be interested in them too. Im in Australia, so would prefer to buy locally, but wouldn't rule out buying OS

Cheers

can't help on the aussie bit but the best tamiya dealer I have found bar none is champrc in japan, faster and cheaper to get it from Osaka to Iowa than it is to get it from California to Iowa via tamiya usa. They got most tamiya stuff and will order anything as long as its not backorder, 4 days shipping time via ems, great service and like 17-19% off tamiya list price-about half what tamiyausa charges as I think they are + 50% of list

http://72.14.203.104/translate_c?hl=en&u=http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/Champ_International/International_index.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dchamp%2Brc%26hl%3Den

[diggernz]

Just got my new DualHunter from my man Jun. I paid yesterday and it was here this morning. I love having the best Tamiya dealer 8in the country only 4 hours up the road. Stuff arrives overnight. The parts count is incredibly low with its preassembled gear boxes. It includes a twin motor ESC and for the tidy price of $239 I think its great value for money.

[thecraze]

I was at work and the Sport Tuned, ball diff and stabilizers were here but went back to the post office because it was registered. The mailman wouldn't let my brother in law sign for them :mad: Oh well it's a good security precaution I suppose.

[nexzzt]

can't help on the aussie bit but the best tamiya dealer I have found bar none is champrc in japan, faster and cheaper to get it from Osaka to Iowa than it is to get it from California to Iowa via tamiya usa. They got most tamiya stuff and will order anything as long as its not backorder, 4 days shipping time via ems, great service and like 17-19% off tamiya list price-about half what tamiyausa charges as I think they are + 50% of list

http://72.14.203.104/translate_c?hl=en&u=http://www.rc-champ.co.jp/Champ_International/International_index.htm&prev=/search%3Fq%3Dchamp%2Brc%26hl%3Den

Thanks for the tip, I'll have a look at the website.

[thecraze]

Just put in the Sport Tuned, and it's great! It'll be just fine until I can upgrade the ESC and get a faster motor in there.

[thecraze]

I have a question.

Since an 18t pinion can run fine in the 19t pinion place, does anyone think a 16t pinion can run in the 17t pinion place for a slightly hotter motor than 19 turns?

[nexzzt]

I have a question.

Since an 18t pinion can run fine in the 19t pinion place, does anyone think a 16t pinion can run in the 17t pinion place for a slightly hotter motor than 19 turns?

If it doesn't mesh well, it would only take a small mod to the motor mount to make it mesh. I have modded mine to use a 15t pinion as im running a brushless setup.

[thecraze]

Do you have any pics of your mod, and setup? If so, can you please post them?

[nexzzt]

Yer, I can post pics but its nothing special. I just used a needle file to make to the lower holes join to form a slot. It allows you to put the top screw in as normal, then swing the motor into place so the gears mesh correctly, and then tighten the lower screw. I'll take a pic or 2 tonight after work.

[thecraze]

Great idea, Nexzzt! It's one of those things that make me slap my head and say "why didn't I think of that?" LOL.


Toonz, are the aluminum dampers better than just putting the hard springs on the plastic stock shocks?

[nexzzt]

Some pics a promised. Last one shows what happens to a DF-03 tire when running a brushless/lipo combo for approx 6 packs :rolleyes:. I ran it on the road a bit but mostly grass/dirt.

Im thinking about trying this mod next:
http://www.kazsh.com/rc/archives/2007/05/part1_1.html#more

[thecraze]

That's sweet. I am thinking of using a modified motor, and that would help.

Have you inserted foam in your tires? I have, and it makes a world of difference in traction. I saw a lot more dirt kicking up even with the silver can motor.

I also put in the dreaded stabilizer set. I can say that I have seen a difference in handling. I know many people on this thread said they didn't. To each his own I guess.

I remeber bald tires like that when I was a kid into RC in NYC. There was no off road available and I had to run on the street.

[nexzzt]

Yer, I have the inserts in there. I have Dirt Hawg tires (front and rear) coming for it, there not spikes so hopefully they will last/grip better on the road.

I was thinking about trying the stabilizer, but didn't know the general consensus was they don't do anything. I might give it a miss.

On the wheel/tires subject, does anyone have any good links for wheel sizes and what vehicles they are suited for, and what tires will go on them. I order everything online (far cheaper for me) and I find it hard matching up wheels/tires as they never list all of the specs. Thanks

[thecraze]

Nexzzt about the stabilizers: all I know is that without them my inner front tire, on a turn, lifts (i.e. left turn, left tire). With stabilizers, it doesn't happen, making for a better grip on the dirt.

Nice paint job BTW.

I wish I knew a good link for tires for you. I need one for myself! LOL.

[toonz]

Nexzzt about the stabilizers: all I know is that without them my inner front tire, on a turn, lifts (i.e. left turn, left tire). With stabilizers, it doesn't happen, making for a better grip on the dirt.

Nice paint job BTW.

I wish I knew a good link for tires for you. I need one for myself! LOL.

what is your set up for your front shocks?

[toonz]

Great idea, Nexzzt! It's one of those things that make me slap my head and say "why didn't I think of that?" LOL.


Toonz, are the aluminum dampers better than just putting the hard springs on the plastic stock shocks?

the aluminium and CVA will mean a different world, not just any hard springs and you don't want hard springs on a buggy:)

[thecraze]

what is your set up for your front shocks?

I have the medium spacer on the shock and the stock spring.

[thecraze]

the aluminium and CVA will mean a different world, not just any hard springs and you don't want hard springs on a buggy:)

Which brand of shocks do you have?

[toonz]

i assume that u are using the kit oil 1hole piston front and 2hole piston rear?

the kit oil 40wt is too soft on the CVA

try this set up, for CVA only
800 wt front (silver/red spring) and 900wt rear (blue spring).

these CVA pistons are thin and their diameter is much smaller than the cylinder and there's a lot of gaps for the oil to pass through.

if u can, add little bit of weight in front...but most of us DT02 players here don't do that :)

[toonz]

Which brand of shocks do you have?

i use the tamiya DF02 shocks (DF03 shocks are not out yet at the time of purchase). 2 hole all round, 30 wt oil, gold spring rear (df03), silver spring front (stock spring)

[thecraze]

i assume that u are using the kit oil 1hole piston front and 2hole piston rear?

the kit oil 40wt is too soft on the CVA

try this set up, for CVA only
800 wt front (silver/red spring) and 900wt rear (blue spring).

these CVA pistons are thin and their diameter is much smaller than the cylinder and there's a lot of gaps for the oil to pass through.

if u can, add little bit of weight in front...but most of us DT02 players here don't do that :)

My next upgrade is going to be aluminum shocks, so I'll hold off on modding the stock shocks. Thanks for the info anyway, I hope it helps someone planning on keeping their stock setup.

I'll pass on weighing down the front when the stabilizers get the same results.

This is a fun car, BTW. And, with Nexzzt's mod to use a 15 tooth pinion, it can be more fun.

[toonz]

yes its true that this is a fun buggy and its strong too. u just need mininum hop ups and it keeps going going going going.......

[thecraze]

If everyone reading this doesn't mind, what are your thoughts about no slipper clutch?

I read someone's comments from somewhere (not sure where) and it stuck with me. This person said they race with no slipper. They said having a slipper is not necessary. It's like racing with an automatic transmission on a full sized car, and no slipper is like a standard tranny. He said all he does is accelerate slower so not to lose traction, like a slipper would do for you.

then comes the question of drivetrain protection a slipper offers. Aside from the fact a Tamiya drivettrain is tough as nails to begin with, a ball diff has limited slip. That offers plenty of protection for the drivetrain.

Just some thoughts.

[nexzzt]

If everyone reading this doesn't mind, what are your thoughts about no slipper clutch?

I read someone's comments from somewhere (not sure where) and it stuck with me. This person said they race with no slipper. They said having a slipper is not necessary. It's like racing with an automatic transmission on a full sized car, and no slipper is like a standard tranny. He said all he does is accelerate slower so not to lose traction, like a slipper would do for you.

then comes the question of drivetrain protection a slipper offers. Aside from the fact a Tamiya drivettrain is tough as nails to begin with, a ball diff has limited slip. That offers plenty of protection for the drivetrain.

Just some thoughts.

You could also reduce the amount of acceleration by adjusting settings in the esc (if you ESC has this feature). I did that with my BL setup so it wouldn't punish the drive train too much.

[thecraze]

You could also reduce the amount of acceleration by adjusting settings in the esc (if you ESC has this feature). I did that with my BL setup so it wouldn't punish the drive train too much.

Very true. I had a car with a slipper once, and I wasn't impressed. The car was the Kyosho Turbo Optima Mid SE in the late eighties. It was cool to have a slipper clutch at first, but I ended up locking it down after a short while. I got annoyed to the fact that if I set it to slowly accelerate, I will be slowly doing so even when I needed full acceleration in the middle of a run.

Without a slipper, I can pull the trigger slower, to slowly accelerate when needed. Then, visa versa when I needed to jump out quick.

Maybe it's just me.

[toonz]

take it easy. the idea of a slipper is actually very simple. if you are using a VERY HOT motor, jump a lot on the track, use a slipper. :)

all these tamiya bz/tz/rz whatever Z....nah....you don't really need a slipper....thought its nice to have.

a slipper should never be lock tighter that a ball-diff cos you want to slipper to slip first and not the ball diff.

the DT02 has no slipper but its hop-up ball-diff set will provide some slip. i use to have it in my viper but i accidentally spoil it when i was rebuilding it. my bad! waste a ball diff! and so now im using the gear diff instead. oh and before i forget, the DT02 ball diff set does help in turning if you feel that the buggy understeers :)

[thecraze]

The ball diff is one of the first things I ordered when I assembled the Viper. I was just dissapointed it didn't include it, but I guess Tamiya would have just charged extra for the kit.

[toonz]

in the DT02MS kit, it has the ball diff. as well as, df03 shocks, df02 universal, heatsink with motor mount, stock front spring and DT02 hop-up red rear spring but both are in white, turnbuckles, rear df03 rims and tires.

this whole package is cheaper than buying a regular Dt02 kit with hop-up....

[TamiyaRacer69]

Hi all,
Been some good reading on here lately. Just to let you know my 19tooth pinion arrived today. Haven't installed it yet, bought a new mountain bike, and it's taken up some of my R/C time. I'm thinking of doing the same thing nexzzt did, with the swivel motor thing, more pinion options.
I'll keep you posted on the BZ-19tooth combo, should be all good.

[toonz]

i just wish that all we DT02 players can come together for a fun race.....but we are all so far away :(

[thecraze]

Yea, Toonz. It would have been nice to race everyone together.

It's hard to find others who like Tamiya where I live. The hobby shops here are into Assosiated and Losi only.

[swannco]

I hear ya brother, the shops here are only interested in selling Losi and Associated too. Why don't they love Tamiya like we do????? :confused:

[nexzzt]

Yer, I have a similar situation here too. If I ask for Tamiya parts in a shop I get looked at like im a stupid kid playing with toys. What is it about a lot (but not all) of the ppl who work in RC shops? They seem to think they are the coolest thing out and want spew all of their knowledge about something all over you, when it doesn't come close to answering the question. Also, I race RC bikes and I am used to modifying car/truck parts as bikes parts are hard to come by, but the shop guys sometimes won't even sell me a part because THEY think won't work.

Anyway, rant over and back on topic. I got my dirt hawg tires yesterday and I really like the way they look, I hope they grip just as well. Im am now chasing a set of wheels, I really don't like the dish wheels. As I mentioned earlier I have a hard time finding wheels that will fit, can anyone point me in the right direction for specs/brands I should be looking for? I have been looking at a few HPI 2.2 wheels, would they work for the rear? Thanks

[toonz]

you can always get the DF03 rear wheels :) they fit the dirt hawg well too

[nexzzt]

Yer, I was thinking about those, prolly the black ones

[toonz]

here
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_744_923&products_id=23463

[nexzzt]

Cool, thanks

[TamiyaRacer69]

i just wish that all we DT02 players can come together for a fun race.....but we are all so far away :(
Wouldn't it be a blast. Could you imagine the carnage:D It'll be a fun day that's for sure.

[toonz]

its going to be HOURS of endurance! ha!

[toonz]

my new buggy. DB01 Durga :)
http://img156.imageshack.us/img156/7447/durga1lv6ul3.jpg
http://img137.imageshack.us/img137/2804/durga2lb6er2.jpg

[thecraze]

I hear ya brother, the shops here are only interested in selling Losi and Associated too. Why don't they love Tamiya like we do????? :confused:

It's because many of the RC racers have delusions of grandeur. They think if they buy an Assosiated or Losi they will be transformed into a world class racer.

I've seen many people with a very expensive RC car (when I was in it before) crash it to hell because they didn't know what they were doing.

[thecraze]

Sweet buggy Toonz!

[nexzzt]

Yep, very nice buggy Toonz. I just read a bit about them and they sound like a DF03 killer, and the DB01 doesn't seem to be much more expensive. I was thinking about getting a DF03, but I might re-think that. The only things that concerns me is the belt drive (i'd be putting my BL setup in it so not sure how it would hold up) and the difference in hex hub attachment (does this mean non standard wheels?)

[toonz]

its no doubt that this can beat the DF03 :)
and its a pretty good car out of the box.

we have a discussion here at oople if you want to know more
http://www.oople.com/forums/showthread.php?t=5482&page=39

here's a review
http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/reviewtamiyadurga/

ok lets come back to dt02 :)

[swannco]

I think the folks in the hobby shops only want to sell the most expensive chassis they have on hand. Preferably the one that will cost the most to maintain, and for which there are scads of high dollar 'upgrades' so you can think [mistakenly, by the way] that you can be a world class driver.

Most of us want to bash with friends, or enjoy club level racing with other folks just like us, and not pretend to be some sponsored celebrity who doesn't even know the name of the town we live in.

Here endeth the rant. Long live Tamiya. :teacher:

By the way toonz, nice ride! I am guessing you have a seriously cool collection based on what you have shown us in the past. :)

[toonz]

thanks nexzzt and swannco:)

i've only a few cars in my humble collection:p
not many.....i only buy those that i like and curious in...

but GO the DT02!:cool::D

[thecraze]

Toonz, I was reading one of the posts on oople.com about the Sand Viper. One person asked if they can race it, and was told by a few people 'no way' (mainly because of no slipper). If that's what that person wants to race, why not? People race all sorts of things. I saw a video of a suped up Grasshopper that could compete.

If I wanted to be like everyone else with a Losi or Assosiated, I would have bought one. I bet the same goes for everyone else here. We like the DT-02, and love to bash it (BTW my steering knuckles are wearing out at the joint on the suspension arm! Whoo-hoo! Breakin' it in).

Also, I just got my new battery, a Duratrax DTX 4200 nimh....before all I had was a 1500 nicd...youch. A world of difference.

[toonz]

look at all these videos on youtube

http://youtube.com/results?search_query=dt02

the dt02 is not just a good bash kit, its a good performer too. this guy is tough!

i wont say that the Dt02 is not race worthy, you can race it. there so many tamiya cars that have been raced in the pass and they have not slipper at all yet those racers are damn good drivers!:D

[thecraze]

Just got my DF-03 universal shafts today! i can't wait until I get a modofied in it!

[swannco]

I tagged a secret water pipe that was sticking out of the ground about 3 inches high. Right on the front steering arm too, hard enough to seriously bounce the viper. I went to see how badly it was broken, and it wasn't even cracked. These things are TOUGH!

Does anybody have the correct measurement for the front steering link turnbuckles if you are using a Tamiya servo saver? I'm going to replace the stock horn and linkage arms with upgrade parts and don't have the correct end to end measurement.

[thecraze]

Swannco, the measurements for the steering shafts are 75mm and 52mm (from between the exposed part of the shaft) per Tamiya's turnbuckle suspension arm and tie rod set instructions.

[thecraze]

[QUOTE=swannco;2305099]I tagged a secret water pipe that was sticking out of the ground about 3 inches high. Right on the front steering arm too, hard enough to seriously bounce the viper. I went to see how badly it was broken, and it wasn't even cracked. These things are TOUGH! [QUOTE]


I hit a tree head on with the right wheel, and my Viper just kept on going.

[swannco]

Thanks for that measurement, now I can tear it down and replace those parts. Got to run one battery pack through the viper today, and hope to get one more run before dark. You just gotta love good weather Sundays in the winter! :D

[nexzzt]

Has anyone used B4 shocks on their DT-02?? Im thinking about getting these but they might be a little too delicate for the bashing I do:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130143894162&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=003

Also, are the DF-03 universal shafts a direct fit onto the DT-02?

Cheers

[TamiyaRacer69]

Has anyone used B4 shocks on their DT-02?? Im thinking about getting these but they might be a little too delicate for the bashing I do:

http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=130143894162&ssPageName=STRK:MEWA:IT&ih=003

Also, are the DF-03 universal shafts a direct fit onto the DT-02?

Cheers
Don't think the DF-03 uni's do but the DF-02 ones do. I've got a set on my Gator, and so does the DT-02MS...................
ITEM 53926 DF-03 Aluminum Damper Set
ITEM 53863 DT-02 Ball Differential Set
ITEM 53791 DF-02 Assembly Universal Shaft
ITEM 53831 DT-02 Aluminum Motor Heat Sink
Steering Tie-Rod from ITEM 53828
Hard Turnbuckle Shaft from ITEM 53942/53943

[thecraze]

I'm using the DF-03 universals. All I did was go on tamiyausa.com, checked out spare parts on both Viper and Dark Impact. They use the same dogbones (Thundershot! 9805551. Have we been using the same exact dogbones for 20 years? I think so!), and the same wheel axles (50823). So, if those parts are the same, why not the same unis? When they arrived, I put them right in, and they've been doing great.

[toonz]

hold on guys...allow me to clear up abit on the universal aka CVD

universal/CVD is Centre Velocity Drive and its a totally different components from dogbones.

the DF03 has no universal/CVD upgrade in its list but you can use the DF02 CVD to fit into the DF03.

the thundershot uses dogbones, so does the DT02 and DF03.

but the DF02 CVD will fit into all these 3 chassis.

[thecraze]

Toonz, all I was saying that since the DF-03 and DT-02 use the same dogbones and rear axles, then the DF-03 universals do work on DT-02. I'm using them on my Viper right now.

[toonz]

yes of cos they are compatible:):D the CVDs are good! most of my cars use CVDs, frog, DT02, DF03 and M03M;)

[thecraze]

Does anyone know if I can fit the motor heat sink on a motor with replaceable brushes?

[nexzzt]

Thanks for the responses. Another question, when installing the CVDs, do I need any to replace the drive cups on the diff side? (sorry, I don't know what they are called) or will the stock ones work? Thanks again.

[thecraze]

As long as you have a Gator or a Viper, they'll work. A Super Fighter G will need the cups replaced.

[nexzzt]

Great, thank you. I have a Viper should be fine.

[toonz]

Does anyone know if I can fit the motor heat sink on a motor with replaceable brushes?

the DT02 hop-up heatsink/motor plate was designed for the silver can or sport tuned. basically closed end bell motors.

but you can still fit in the motor plate if you are using rebuildable motors.

[nexzzt]

You could throw the heatsink into the vise and "make" it fit ;)

[thecraze]

Thanks for the replies. If I get a rebuildable motor, I'm better off not getting the heatsink then.

[pangRacer]

Hello to all,
I was encouraged by this thread to get interested with the DT02 MS. I started building the kit two weeks ago and done with the chassis and electronics today. Body painting later. I will take some digital pictures this weekend and will post. I installed:
Tamiya TEU-302Bk ESC
Tamiya BZ Motor (stock pinion is 17T)
Kimbrough Servo Saver (2mm longer than the shortest high torge Tamiya saver that comes with the kit)
The kit does NOT come with tires. So I bought a Proline 4-rib Wide Type M3 for the front and Losi Micro Pin Pink on the rear. Good grips on the the carpet.
Other Mods:
Fabricated front hinge pins retainer from Tamiya FRP
Double Tie Rods on the front (front DF03 kit)
Front Damper Stay brace using DF-03 Tie Rod.

Thanks for keeping this thread very informative.

[toonz]

well done and welcome pangracer!

the DT02 is great fun and i hope you'll use it to the max :)

waiting for pics :D

[thecraze]

Not only is the DT-02 fun, but can be a competitor!

On a sadder note, I have the first crack in me chassis. One of the four screw holes holding the gear box, closest to the back, is cracked to the edge. I'll get a pic later today.

[thecraze]

Maybe I don't need a new chassis yet, but at least I'm getting my money's worth! LOL


By the way, does anyone else have this problem: My 101bk sometimes gets out of adjustment. It will not recognize full throttle, and my Viper will seem sluggish. Sometimes, without readjusting, I can pull on the throttle and get almost full speed, release throttle, then pull again on full throttle and get full speed. I'm going to adjust the ESC for full throttle with the trigger not pulled all the way. If anyone else has a better idea, can you please share it? Or, do I need a new ESC?

[nexzzt]

I was looking at my chassis and it look like it was taking a beating like yours has. Someone posted an ali skid plate they made back a few pages, which also curved up at the back to protect the motor. I might have a crack at making one of those.

My 101bk sometimes gets out of adjustment. It will not recognize full throttle, and my Viper will seem sluggish. Sometimes, without readjusting, I can pull on the throttle and get almost full speed, release throttle, then pull again on full throttle and get full speed. I'm going to adjust the ESC for full throttle with the trigger not pulled all the way. If anyone else has a better idea, can you please share it? Or, do I need a new ESC?

I used to get that problem a lot with the cheap tx's that come with RTR's, and have the analogue trim settings (dials or slides) that would always "shift" and I would have to re-do them every time I ran the vehicle.

Just my .02$

[pangRacer]

I replaced my rear tires with Proline Dirt Hawg and tried it in our cobble stone driveway. I assume I lost acceleration from standstill due probably to the bigger diameter and heavier tires (compared to the Losi micro pin in carpet). I changed the stock foam insert to a Tamiya molded foam insert from my DI tires and looks like I have better traction and acceleration due probably to the fact that the Dirt Hawg tires are somehow softer with the clearance provided by the molded foam.

Has anybody tried this set-up before for bashing on pavement?
Front Proline 4-rib wide soft (2.2")
Rear Proline Dirt Hawg Buggy Tire (2.2")
17T Pinion, Tamiya BZ
DF03 Shocks with white springs, soft damper oil

Enjoy....

[nexzzt]

I replaced my rear tires with Proline Dirt Hawg and tried it in our cobble stone driveway. I assume I lost acceleration from standstill due probably to the bigger diameter and heavier tires (compared to the Losi micro pin in carpet). I changed the stock foam insert to a Tamiya molded foam insert from my DI tires and looks like I have better traction and acceleration due probably to the fact that the Dirt Hawg tires are somehow softer with the clearance provided by the molded foam.

Has anybody tried this set-up before for bashing on pavement?
Front Proline 4-rib wide soft (2.2")
Rear Proline Dirt Hawg Buggy Tire (2.2")
17T Pinion, Tamiya BZ
DF03 Shocks with white springs, soft damper oil

Enjoy....

I have the buggy dirt hawgs on all four wheels, and on pavement I have a hard time NOT flipping it over (im running brushless though). Also, making tight turns at any real speed will cause it to roll over. I would go far as to say they have too much grip on bitumen/pavement. I think it needs to slide a little, just before the point of rolling the car, to have the best handling. But maybe im stating the obvious here :(

[pangRacer]

Hi Nexzzt,

I tried today my setup without wing and body yet and I am getting very good handling on pavement. Looks like the 23T BZ motor is just the right power for the bigger Dirt Hawg tires.

I noticed I have very tight fit on the rear suspension components like: The aluminum damper body will hit the damper stay and the tie rod is hitting the damper spring. I tried filing the stay and putting spacers to the ball nuts but I dont like the final result. I am planning to replace the rear suspension arm and bearing holder with parts from DF-03, has anybody tried this before?

[barbsie1]

Hi all

Thanks for the thread. Learning heaps. Not sure if anyone has posted this yet. Just found it on the 3racing site.

http://209.85.173.104/search?q=cache:2ccLqT1bs_kJ:www.3racing.com.hk/x_products.jsp%3Fx_carkit_id%3D74%26x_title%3DOpti onal%2520Parts%2520for%2520Tamiya%2520DT-02+dt-02+aluminium+-sink&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=10&gl=au

Could be good if they follow through with the goods (Like I need another excuse to part with my hard earned :o). I especially like the idea of stronger shock towers.

cheers
DB

[thecraze]

I'm already using the 3racing DF-03 CVD shafts. If anyone gets these might I suggest putting locktite on the grub screws because they will come loose (both did to me yesterday).

[toonz]

welcome barbsie1

its a good thing that 3racing is finally making some blings for the DT02.
thanks for the link.

not sure if you already have the DT02 but you don't realil need the carbon towers just yet because the DT02 towers are actually quite strong and non of us have broken it so far :)

well my advise is upgrade only when you break something :) the DT02 requires little upgrades to perform :)

[thecraze]

True Toonz.

The things I would look into are the aluminum front c mounts (mine are worn), heatsink, aluminum shocks, and maybe the aluminum battery plate (because I'm a sucker for cool looking things).

I've read people say (on some threads) that they've broken a graphite or fiberglass shock tower, and have gone back to the original plastic ones that came with their kit. One of the cars was an RC10B4 if I'm not mistaken.

[toonz]

front C hub and the rear uprights are good upgrades for the DT02. if you want the heatsink, get the DT02 hopup heatsink cos its thicker and its installed right inside the motor mount and you'll also have the advantage of using the external heatsink in this hopup if you are using any close endbell motor someday. 2 heatsinks in 1 package, why not?:)

forget about 3racing shocks. they are not tested.
there is a new tamiya TRF damper coming so if you can wait awhile....
http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=54028

graphite and carbon are good stuff for racing cos they are strong and light in weight. BUT they don't offer flex and so if they crash under high speed....well....

plastic on the hand allow some flex but too much flex isn't good either. the towers made for the DT02 are beefy enough to sustain impacts and i haven't broke mine yet....so are many out there...

[pangRacer]

My work in progress:

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1010158.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1010168.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1010169.jpg

[thecraze]

I'll definately be looking at the front c hubs. I'm actually thinking of inserting a thin metal tube to stop the wiggling that's going on because they've worn out.

The rear uprights on my Viper are holding up just fine, so I may just keep them like they are.

i may think about the shocks too because 70.00 for the Tamiya shocks are a little much for me.

I never thought of the Tamiya heatsink that way. Good idea. I thought the heatsink was just in the one that went over the closed endbell. Thanks for the info.

PangRacer, sweet ride!

[barbsie1]

welcome barbsie1

its a good thing that 3racing is finally making some blings for the DT02.
thanks for the link.

not sure if you already have the DT02 but you don't realil need the carbon towers just yet because the DT02 towers are actually quite strong and non of us have broken it so far :)

well my advise is upgrade only when you break something :) the DT02 requires little upgrades to perform :)

Thanks toonz,

I will stay with the plastic shock mounts for now. Recently snapped the front tower of my DG. Admittedly it was a very nasty mid-air collision at a skate park... with a steel fence. I have a new C part on order. I might add a brace however. And obviously while I'm ordering the brace I may as well buy a few more shiny blue things:D.

cheers
DB

[thecraze]

Thanks toonz,

Recently snapped the front tower of my DG. Admittedly it was a very nasty mid-air collision at a skate park... with a steel fence.



hi barbsie. I didn't know the DT-02 can be turned into an airplane. Just kidding.

This is one tough chassis if that's what it takes to break something.

[barbsie1]

Yep... Nice idea thecraze. If only 3racing made DT02 Ailerons I might have been okay. :) Perhaps we should suggest it to them.

DB

p.s. Has anyone driven both the standard DT02 and the MS version? Just wondering if the TRF edition has less understeer. (I've read the many tips and tweaks for dealing with this issue. Just curious to know how they compare: how much the ball diff etc etc improve things.)

[swannco]

looking good pangracer, but where's the DIRT? ;)

[pangRacer]

looking good pangracer, but where's the DIRT? ;)

I upgraded today connectors to Deans Plug. Body painting and dirt to follow;). The dirty hawg tires are good for pavement not on asphalt and stable at full throttle lock to lock steering. I tried this in asphalt and I had my first flip with my MS today,g ood I dont have yet the body installed. The white springs that comes with the damper on the MS are very good in absorbing bumps even when one tire is on concrete and the other on the grass. I ove this ride.:)

[pangRacer]

I'll definately be looking at the front c hubs. I'm actually thinking of inserting a thin metal tube to stop the wiggling that's going on because they've worn out.

The rear uprights on my Viper are holding up just fine, so I may just keep them like they are.

i may think about the shocks too because 70.00 for the Tamiya shocks are a little much for me.

I never thought of the Tamiya heatsink that way. Good idea. I thought the heatsink was just in the one that went over the closed endbell. Thanks for the info.

PangRacer, sweet ride!

Thanks,
The Tamiya Heatsink kit in the MS comes with motor spacer about 6mm thick which moves the BZ motor out of the chassis with enough space to clip the finned heat sink. I mounted a heatsink retainer using the unused screw hole in the rear. The heat sink in my ESC is from a memory chip cooler.

I have a Tamiya alum damper in my DF03 but the gold spring that comes with it is not as soft as the white spring in the MS.

If you look closely in the picture, I have a kimbrough Servo saver which is around 20 mm long so the mod on servo cover is minimal. the suggested servo saver lenght is about 18mm long. I have a very tight turn with my Futaba controller set at 115% on the Steering.

[toonz]

i won't advise you to clip the DT02 heatsink on the endbell of the BZ or any other hot motors as it already has a heatsink on its own. clipping it onto the endbell will only endanger the motor components like brushes, brush springs and the capacitor if the car topple on its way and hit the heatsink. whereas a close endbell motor will have a larger space for the heatsink to clip on and its secured.

the white FRONT spring of the MS is that same as the stock front silver spring of the original DT02 gator/viper kit and the white REAR spring is from the DT02 hop-up spring set RED spring which is also the soft spring.

these are different from the DF03 gold/silver/black spring set, which is also available in limited edition white, each denoted in red/blue/yellow.

[thecraze]

This was a close one yesterday:

I accidently hit a puddle (that was hiding of course!) then my Viper stopped accelerating. I tested the reciever by putting in my steering servo into channel 2, and it was fine. Then I opened the ESC to find dirt caked at the bottom of the circuit board. A little wiping, then electrical cleaner, and it was fine.

I hate puddles.

[pangRacer]

i won't advise you to clip the DT02 heatsink on the endbell of the BZ or any other hot motors as it already has a heatsink on its own. clipping it onto the endbell will only endanger the motor components like brushes, brush springs and the capacitor if the car topple on its way and hit the heatsink. whereas a close endbell motor will have a larger space for the heatsink to clip on and its secured.

the white FRONT spring of the MS is that same as the stock front silver spring of the original DT02 gator/viper kit and the white REAR spring is from the DT02 hop-up spring set RED spring which is also the soft spring.

these are different from the DF03 gold/silver/black spring set, which is also available in limited edition white, each denoted in red/blue/yellow.

Thanks for the springs info, it is very helpful.

I actually installed the clip-on spring over the BZ motor foam cover for bling as I doubt that it will ever help in cooling but at least provide minimal insulation from shorting. As there is a possibility of shorting in case the heatsink pop out, I installed a rotating clip using the unused mounting hole and slots perfectly to the heatsink cutout tokeep it permanent. See the attachment:http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1010171.jpg
http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1010174.jpg

Did you noticed something unususal in the photos?

[nexzzt]

Did you noticed something unususal in the photos?

Different suspensions arms, DF-03 parts?

[barbsie1]

Different hub carriers on the left and right.

[thecraze]

Different suspensions arms, DF-03 parts?


And those suspension arms give it a slightly wider stance?

[thecraze]

I've got my first major break today.

The passenger rear pivot point for the suspension arm on the gear box is loose. As I was driving it towards me, I noticed the wheel was pointed inward more than the other in the rear.

I guess this is what happens after jumping a DT-02 over logs repeatedly, and doing a total of about 20 somersaults! LOL.

[thecraze]

I'm not sure if I can even epoxy it. I'd have to find some way to keep it together while drying.

[nexzzt]

I'm not sure if I can even epoxy it. I'd have to find some way to keep it together while drying.

I guess an all ali transmission would be too heavy, but maybe some metal ribbing or some other way of re-enforcing those areas would be nice. I am yet to break something like that on my Viper, but I do hit some pretty aggressively angled jumps at full noise so its bound to happen soon.

I usually find some way of getting one of those zippy cable tidy things to hold stuff together. They have to be the best invention ever.

[thecraze]

I've epoxyed it. I used a c clamp to hold it together for a few hours, now
I have to wait until tomorrow to see if it'll hold. If it doesn't, I'll be ordering spare parts soon.

This car is still tough as nails, though...

[pangRacer]

Different suspensions arms, DF-03 parts?

You are absolutely right, the DF03 rear suspension arms looks like they are compatible with the DT02. I have rubbing issues in some of the rear components so I decided to try something else from my parts spare.
:)wider by 1mm in both ends, better for the CVD as I have now more clearance on the drive cups. Before it touches the inner slot far end when suspension bottomed out.
:confused:more rear toe-in. Not sure what I will gain or loss. Will I loss straight line speed but more stable if front grip is bad? Anybody who have the answer?
:)better dampener mounting, no more rubbing on the stay, and mounting moved to the rear by 4mm. More available adjustment.
:)tie rod in line with universal shaft with 5mm spacer on the ball nut, no more rubbing on the damper springs.
:):confused:longer arm, lower hub placement: not sure what will I gain but I like the DF03 material and they weight less.
:(Will cost about $22.00 because you have to buy 2 sets of DF03 parts.
:(I can still use the rear turnbuckle but I need a turnbuckle that is longer than 50mm to take advantage of the available adjustment. Can someone help on this?

[thecraze]

Look up df-03 turnbuckle on Ebay. There are plenty. http://search.ebay.com/search/search.dll?from=R40&_trksid=m37&satitle=df-03+turnbuckle&category0=

[toonz]

You are absolutely right, the DF03 rear suspension arms looks like they are compatible with the DT02. I have rubbing issues in some of the rear components so I decided to try something else from my parts spare.
:)wider by 1mm in both ends, better for the CVD as I have now more clearance on the drive cups. Before it touches the inner slot far end when suspension bottomed out.
:confused:more rear toe-in. Not sure what I will gain or loss. Will I loss straight line speed but more stable if front grip is bad? Anybody who have the answer?
:)better dampener mounting, no more rubbing on the stay, and mounting moved to the rear by 4mm. More available adjustment.
:)tie rod in line with universal shaft with 5mm spacer on the ball nut, no more rubbing on the damper springs.
:):confused:longer arm, lower hub placement: not sure what will I gain but I like the DF03 material and they weight less.
:(Will cost about $22.00 because you have to buy 2 sets of DF03 parts.
:(I can still use the rear turnbuckle but I need a turnbuckle that is longer than 50mm to take advantage of the available adjustment. Can someone help on this?

this is definately one interesting experiment and i must give credit to this!
have you tried changing the front arms to DF03 as well? cos that will allow you to use hex wheels! :) give a try, let us know. its great!

[thecraze]

Just in case anyone's wondering: epoxy is no good for suspension pivot points. I guess it's too stressful.

[thecraze]

To add insult to injury.. I picked up my Viper to look at it, and the front bent foward a little like the back two screws on the bulkhead stiffener weren't on. They were screwed on, the part of the chassis that it attaches to broke. The same with the two screws holding the gear box on the chassis. I really did a number on this car..

I put longer screws on the front, and I have to go to the hardware store for more longer screws.

[pangRacer]

What is your best turning radius?
My MS is 13" or 26" between rear wheels inner edge when steering is in full lock position, ETA on my steering is 120% with no binding and servo saver springs are not loaded.

I am interested in what you got so I can use it as benchmark before doing the earlier suggestion to try the DF03 front suspension arms replacement. My initial measurements looks very promising: width increase of 4mm in both ends using original DT02 steering link. My current front track is 240 mm so with the +8 it will be within the IFMAR/Roar maximum 250mm width. What will I gain with wider front track width? By the way my rear track width now is 248 and no increase in wheelbase. With the the front DF0-3 arm, wheelbase will be adjustable to Maximum +6mm, will that be interesting to you?

[thecraze]

pangracer, with increased front track you should get better handling. You are making me think I should order DF-03 suspension arms!

[thecraze]

Well, Im out of commission until parts arrive.

The closest hobby shop claimed Tamiya didn't have the gear box available to buy...which translates to the fact he didn't want to bother with ordering one part.

[pangRacer]

Well, Im out of commission until parts arrive.

The closest hobby shop claimed Tamiya didn't have the gear box available to buy...which translates to the fact he didn't want to bother with ordering one part.

I think the u-shaft on the DF02 will fit exactly with the rear arms of DT02 but you have to find out how to modify the space to fit. I am actually using the U-arm in my DF03 front suspension arms and planning for the rear and I can tell you it is a bulletproof solution to breakinbg suspension mounts. I will eventually try this on my MS for front and rear.

[thecraze]

I think the u-shaft on the DF02 will fit exactly with the rear arms of DT02 but you have to find out how to modify the space to fit. I am actually using the U-arm in my DF03 front suspension arms and planning for the rear and I can tell you it is a bulletproof solution to breakinbg suspension mounts. I will eventually try this on my MS for front and rear.

I probably broke the mount by backing into something hard. Aren't the U arms the upper arm (if I'm not mistaken)? If so, you'd lose the ability to adjust them.

[pangRacer]

The U-shaft in DF02 is your typical 2 pieces shaft with funny 4mm thread on the philipps head which connects the suspension arm to the gearbox,like a hinge pin . I actrually ordered the part directly from Tamiya USA because my LHS dont carry them, about $2.50

[nexzzt]

I put longer screws on the front, and I have to go to the hardware store for more longer screws.

I have done the same thing except I put 4 long screws at the front and 2 at the back

[pangRacer]

Opps, the thread may have cut into the mounting and wearing it over time since the weight of the car is in the arm hinge. the hinge pins supposed to be smooth thats why in some Tamiya upgrades, they use stainless smooth pins with capture c-clips on both ends. The original pins just work better than long screw replacement.

[pangRacer]

Opps, the thread may have cut into the mounting and wearing it over time since the weight of the car is in the arm hinge. the hinge pins supposed to be smooth thats why in some Tamiya upgrades, they use stainless smooth pins with capture c-clips on both ends. The original pins just work better than long screw replacement.

[nexzzt]

I just tried this out and thought I would share it. It's a Jconcepts Illusion - Fast Back XXX-CR body (thats a mouth full). Needed a little extra trimming to make it fit but (if you look past the crappy paint/sticker job) I think it works well.

[thecraze]

Sweet, nexzzt. I was looking into another body and spoiler for my Viper, too. Looks like you beat me to the punch!

By the way, how are those dirt hawgs working out for you, traction wise?

[nexzzt]

By the way, how are those dirt hawgs working out for you, traction wise?

No good on grass, too good on road/cement (flips and rolls too easy, the shock towers are nearly worn away from sliding down the road upside down) and I haven't had a chance to try dirt. I have the weekend to myself so I'll try some dirt then.

[thecraze]

No good on grass, too good on road/cement (flips and rolls too easy, the shock towers are nearly worn away from sliding down the road upside down) and I haven't had a chance to try dirt. I have the weekend to myself so I'll try some dirt then.

I was thinking about buying some dirt hawgs. Other than the grass and flipping problem (probably due to the fact you're brushless), are there any other downsides?

BTW I rigged my suspension arm with a couple of rubber bands to keep it on the groove that's on the gearbox! I'm going to test it out when my battery cools...

[nexzzt]

Cools? Run it hot, you get more punch ;)

The only other downside (which is probably due to the brushless again) is the tires turn into discs and grow to twice their diameter when flat out. Makes it very unstable. The stock tires never did this.

[pangRacer]

Dirt Hawgs from my experience are too heavy. I used in my DF03 and break my front suspension mount in my first pack. I am retiring them now. I am shopping for slicks

[thecraze]

That rubber band idea didn't work (of course). Now, I am just waiting for Tamiya to send my parts....

[thecraze]

A local hobby shop just opened today near me. Whew. I was afraid I was going to be ordering online forever! LOL.

[pangRacer]

Thats good for you. I ordered my first DT02 Parts A yesterday direct from Tamiya USA after breaking the rear right tie rod mount. I was surprised how fragile this plastic parts are, I dont even have a crash/flip, just tight turns with BZ motor and Tamiya high density spike tires . I used CA glue, it worked and today I broke the other side so I glued them again and waiting to dry.

Has anybody in this forum made mods to make this part of the DT02 better? I already spent $170 on the MS kit and another $20 for tires and yet it is not ever near a racer category, its a toy.

[thecraze]

Thats good for you. I ordered my first DT02 Parts A yesterday direct from Tamiya USA after breaking the rear right tie rod mount. I was surprised how fragile this plastic parts are, I dont even have a crash/flip, just tight turns with BZ motor and Tamiya high density spike tires . I used CA glue, it worked and today I broke the other side so I glued them again and waiting to dry.

Has anybody in this forum made mods to make this part of the DT02 better? I already spent $170 on the MS kit and another $20 for tires and yet it is not ever near a racer category, its a toy.

All the things I put my Viper through (hard jumps off logs, somersaults), I never thought anyone could break something with tight turns. Has anyone else had this trouble?

[nexzzt]

All the things I put my Viper through (hard jumps off logs, somersaults), I never thought anyone could break something with tight turns. Has anyone else had this trouble?

Nope, but I do agree the hawgs aren't the best for bashing around in the dirt. But if you were looking to run your DT-02 on road they seem pretty good grip wise, and don't seem to wear to badly either.

[thecraze]

Maybe I'll stick to off road tires.

The ones that came with the kit wore out after a month! That's with a Sport Tuned....

[thecraze]

Pangracer, do you have any pics of the damage to your car? I am just curious how you can break that with just tight turns, and a BZ. I broke mine when I reversed into something hard.

[pangRacer]

Pangracer, do you have any pics of the damage to your car? I am just curious how you can break that with just tight turns, and a BZ. I broke mine when I reversed into something hard.

The broken tie rod links on the gear case could be a blessing in disguise. I am now almost done on a modification not only to strengtened the links but also allow more adjustability on the tie-rod so that I can maximize the use of the longer DF03 suspension arm. Note that in both cases of broken links I was using the original DT02MS suspension arm and Universal shaft which I noted earlier that there is no clearance in the drive cup slot end when suspension bottomed. Anyway, I will post the pictures when I am done in two days time. I am modifying a TA04 rear suspension stay for this.

[Choppa]

Hi all

Thanks for the thread. Learning heaps. Not sure if anyone has posted this yet. Just found it on the 3racing site.

http://209.85.173.104/search?q=cache:2ccLqT1bs_kJ:www.3racing.com.hk/x_products.jsp%3Fx_carkit_id%3D74%26x_title%3DOpti onal%2520Parts%2520for%2520Tamiya%2520DT-02+dt-02+aluminium+-sink&hl=en&ct=clnk&cd=10&gl=au

Could be good if they follow through with the goods (Like I need another excuse to part with my hard earned :o). I especially like the idea of stronger shock towers.

cheers
DB

hey Barbsie,

HAd a look at the link and they have some really good stuff on there. Does anyone else know where i can find some 'Tamiya DT-02 Aluminum Rear Hubs' from. I found some at the following link but no luck anywhere else. I have broken two of them in the last week!!

http://www.rc-square.de/english/square_2_1_6_tamiya_df02-df03-dt02.htm

Any suggestions would be great, thanks in advance guys.....

[thecraze]

The broken tie rod links on the gear case could be a blessing in disguise. I am now almost done on a modification not only to strengtened the links but also allow more adjustability on the tie-rod so that I can maximize the use of the longer DF03 suspension arm. Note that in both cases of broken links I was using the original DT02MS suspension arm and Universal shaft which I noted earlier that there is no clearance in the drive cup slot end when suspension bottomed. Anyway, I will post the pictures when I am done in two days time. I am modifying a TA04 rear suspension stay for this.

That's right. I forgot you were doing modifications on your rear end.

[nexzzt]

hey Barbsie,

HAd a look at the link and they have some really good stuff on there. Does anyone else know where i can find some 'Tamiya DT-02 Aluminum Rear Hubs' from. I found some at the following link but no luck anywhere else. I have broken two of them in the last week!!

http://www.rc-square.de/english/square_2_1_6_tamiya_df02-df03-dt02.htm

Any suggestions would be great, thanks in advance guys.....

They are expensive there! I have seen them on ebay almost every time I search "DT-02", but they are not there atm. They are normally approx $30USD IIRC. I'm fairly sure its this ebay store that normally has them:

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Jasons-Store_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

[thecraze]

They are expensive there! I have seen them on ebay almost every time I search "DT-02", but they are not there atm. They are normally approx $30USD IIRC. I'm fairly sure its this ebay store that normally has them:

http://stores.ebay.com.au/Jasons-Store_W0QQssPageNameZstrkQ3amefsQ3amesstQQtZkm

Barbsie mentioned 3racing's site http://www.3racing.com.hk/x_search.jsp that has some metal parts, and more on the way...cheap! Front aluminum C mounts for 13 bucks.

[pangRacer]

Fabricated a rear tie-rod stay from a TA04 rear damper stay.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1010188.jpg


Fitted, looks perfect.. just waiting now for glue on broken links to dry then I will mount the fabricated tie-rod stay with screw in both ends.

http://i169.photobucket.com/albums/u207/pangracer/L1010189.jpg

This will perfectly fit my DF-03 suspension arm stay upgrade as well as solve my short 50mm turnbuckle problem. Will post final picture this week.

[Choppa]

Thanks guys. will give them a try..... has anyone else got the aluminium rear hubs on their cars and if so is there much difference from the stock ones, ie ride height?

Also, do any of you guys run your rc with deans plugs and do they make much difference performance wise?

[Choppa]

Barbsie mentioned 3racing's site http://www.3racing.com.hk/x_search.jsp that has some metal parts, and more on the way...cheap! Front aluminum C mounts for 13 bucks.

I can't order them from 3racing as they ain't in stock yet. Its got that they are currently 'coming'.

[thecraze]

I can't order them from 3racing as they ain't in stock yet. Its got that they are currently 'coming'.

Well, I'm willing to wait, since it's much cheaper on 3racing.

I already have a set of universal CVDs on my Viper that were for the DF-03 from 3racing, and they are great.

[pangRacer]

this is definately one interesting experiment and i must give credit to this!
have you tried changing the front arms to DF03 as well? cos that will allow you to use hex wheels! :) give a try, let us know. its great!

:wave:I am finally done with the suspension arm upgrade. I am hoping the weather will cooperate this weekend so I can take photos to share. In advance I can tell you the rear is a perfect upgrade and the front is impossible after many tries. It took me sometime to finish the experiement due to broken left and right tie rod links in the gear case.

[thecraze]

:wave:I am finally done with the suspension arm upgrade. I am hoping the weather will cooperate this weekend so I can take photos to share. In advance I can tell you the rear is a perfect upgrade and the front is impossible after many tries. It took me sometime to finish the experiement due to broken left and right tie rod links in the gear case.

Great, I can't wait for you to say how it performs!

[thecraze]

I just converted my battery to Dean's plugs, and i need another male to convert my motor connectors.

I also have Proline bowtie rears, and just need to get some glue for them to try them out!

[pangRacer]

Great, I can't wait for you to say how it performs!

Run one pack today using Proline Dirt Hawg and 4-Rib M3 Front on Pavement and looks like I have more stable straight line. I decided to recal my Dirt Hawg because I am now confident with DF03 rear suspension arm which is stronger than stock. This upgrade moves the rear shaft and bottom shock mount about 3mm backwards so I think it helps in reducing wheelie.

Same with me, I got Deans on my batteries primarily for safety reason.

[thecraze]

Run one pack today using Proline Dirt Hawg and 4-Rib M3 Front on Pavement and looks like I have more stable straight line. I decided to recal my Dirt Hawg because I am now confident with DF03 rear suspension arm which is stronger than stock. This upgrade moves the rear shaft and bottom shock mount about 3mm backwards so I think it helps in reducing wheelie.

Same with me, I got Deans on my batteries primarily for safety reason.

How tight is your ball diff? Maybe it's too tight. As soon as I went from a gear to a ball diff, I haven't done wheelies.

[pangRacer]

How tight is your ball diff? Maybe it's too tight. As soon as I went from a gear to a ball diff, I haven't done wheelies.

I have seen my MS done wheelie on carpet with my BZ motor only, and my ball diffs are ceramic and I tightened them as per manual (tight and back-off 1/2turn). I mean moving the rear wheels by 3mm will move the CG forward. My assumption is that since the DT02 does not have a slipper clutch, when landing the rear from a jump can induce wheelie and moving the CG forward should at least reduce that (I observed most 2wd buggies in US are rear end heavy because of motor and gear placement behind the rear wheel axle). Is my assumption correct?:confused:

[thecraze]

Yes, you are correct. I was in this hobby in the 80s when I was a kid, and the high end 2wd buggies were the same as now with the motor and gears behind the axles.

In the early 90s, I actually modified an Astute I had at the time. I turned the gear box around so the motor was ahead of the axle (mid motored), and ran the battery up the middle of the chassis. To run the battery, I also had to move the steering servo to the side. This made the car more stable, and makes me wonder why cars are still made with the motors in the rear.

[pangRacer]

Yes, you are correct. I was in this hobby in the 80s when I was a kid, and the high end 2wd buggies were the same as now with the motor and gears behind the axles.

In the early 90s, I actually modified an Astute I had at the time. I turned the gear box around so the motor was ahead of the axle (mid motored), and ran the battery up the middle of the chassis. To run the battery, I also had to move the steering servo to the side. This made the car more stable, and makes me wonder why cars are still made with the motors in the rear.

Interesting. Maybe I have to modify my MS not only with DF03 rear suspension arms but to transplant the whole DF03 motor assy and rear suspension. Then I have a mid motored 2WD, with slipper clutch and more gearing options. Or replace my Keen Hawk front suspension /steering mechanism with a DT02 to make it a 2WD. I guess it will be an interesting project:)

[thecraze]

That would be a true Frankenstein monster! LOL

[thecraze]

Ugh! Now my Sport Tuned is not working. A piece of what seems to be a brush fell out as I was looking into why there was no juice. Darn closed endbell motors.

[nexzzt]

Ugh! Now my Sport Tuned is not working. A piece of what seems to be a brush fell out as I was looking into why there was no juice. Darn closed endbell motors.

Go brushless, no fuss, no maintenance :D

[thecraze]

Go brushless, no fuss, no maintenance :D

Unfortunately, brushless is not an option for me at the moment.

[thecraze]

Go brushless, no fuss, no maintenance :D

How hot has your motor gotten, since you have brushless?

[nexzzt]

Gets a bit hot, but the motor really is too low turn for the buggy. Its one I had sitting around from another project so I just used it. If I went down another tooth on the pinion it might run a bit cooler, it has too much top speed anyway.

[thecraze]

In another post, you said you're running a 15 tooth. Are you still running that, if so it would mean you can fit a 14 tooth?

[nexzzt]

In another post, you said you're running a 15 tooth. Are you still running that, if so it would mean you can fit a 14 tooth?

Yes and yes

[m0ng00se]

Hey guys,

I need some advice. Im still using the stock suspension, and I want to upgrade to something stiffer. I damage the car when i take a jump, because the suspension isn't stiff enough. Would you guys please recommend a good suspension upgrade? Part numbers would be greatly appreciated.

[m0ng00se]

Will a battery upgrade (3300mAh at the moment) give me more power or will it just increase runtime?
I'm running the Sport Tuned at the moment and runtime is quite low. What will i have to upgrade to for about 20-30minutes of runtime?

[thecraze]

Will a battery upgrade (3300mAh at the moment) give me more power or will it just increase runtime?
I'm running the Sport Tuned at the moment and runtime is quite low. What will i have to upgrade to for about 20-30minutes of runtime?

Before my Sport tuned took a dump, I had about a half hour run time on a 4200mah battery.

[thecraze]

Yes and yes

Sweet

[swannco]

m0ng00se,

try a 4200nimh pack and see what you get. i find great run times and a bit more punch to be the result.

some of the guys here that know the most have recommended the [df-03 chassis] upgraded aluminum trf shocks. they raise the ride height and prevent bottoming out, so that should solve your problem. warning: like most trf shocks, they are pricey, but people swear by them.

on a different note: i'm less in love with my trusty sand viper this week than last week. its still a valued member of the family, but there's a new model that i like a little better. i bought a tamtech fox mini. IT ROCKS!!!!!! i gotta say it performs better straight out of the box than my improved viper, and looks to be an all time favorite with a few hop-ups! if the original fox was half the car this thing is, then holy cow, i see why people love them. this gb-01 chassis is the bomb and i can't wait to throw it at some serious jumps and dirt track bashing.

now i want the others in this series too! and maybe a hotter motor, and some street tires, and some bling, and ...:D

[thecraze]

I am closer to getting brushless than I thought.... I found a great deal on the Traxxas Velineon system on ebay. I just may have to pick it up...

[hanafuda]

Good to see this thread still going strong.

Decided to spend a bit of cash on my SFG.

Anyone know if the blue and yellow Tamiya aluminium oil dampers for the DF-02 will fit this chassis?

[thecraze]

From what I've read on here, the DF-03 shocks work, and from the looks of it (correct me if I'm wrong, anyone) the DF-02 shocks will work, too.

[hanafuda]

From what I've read on here, the DF-03 shocks work, and from the looks of it (correct me if I'm wrong, anyone) the DF-02 shocks will work, too.

Sweet. Can anyone confirm regarding the DF-03 shocks?

I have a Dark Impact too but think I'll keep the stock shocks on that.

[m0ng00se]

Thanks a lot swannco. Would you mind giving me the part number for those shocks? Im still sucky at finding all the info :D

Mongoose

[m0ng00se]

oh and by the way, is there a specific brand I should go for when I upgrade to a 4200 Nimh pack?

[thecraze]

I use a Duratrax DXT 4200mah and it works fine with the stock ESC and Sport Tuned (30 minutes).

[thecraze]

The brush that fell out of my Sport tuned!

[thecraze]

I had extra ball joints when I upgraded to turnbuckles (they came with all hardware) when my car already had them.

I used the ball joints instead of the simple screws to mount the shocks.

[nexzzt]

I like the ball joint idea. I find the screws back them selves out after a few runs

[thecraze]

I like the ball joint idea. I find the screws back them selves out after a few runs

Nothing a little blue threadlock can't cure.

[Cole Trickle]

Hi there

New member here - I've just ordered a DT-02 MS, should arrive within a couple of weeks.

As far as I understand from this thread, the DT-02 is reasonably solid - but can it handle brushless, without breaking a lot?

I'll be using it for bashing.

Another question: How long are the shock springs? Can I use springs from other companies, like HPI MT, which are 57 and 70 mm long.

Thanks :)

[thecraze]

Hi there

New member here - I've just ordered a DT-02 MS, should arrive within a couple of weeks.

As far as I understand from this thread, the DT-02 is reasonably solid - but can it handle brushless, without breaking a lot?

I'll be using it for bashing.

Another question: How long are the shock springs? Can I use springs from other companies, like HPI MT, which are 57 and 70 mm long.

Thanks :)

Welcome Cole Trickle.

The Dt-02 chassis can handle brushless, Nexzzt has it, and I'm getting it.

Not sure about the springs, I have the Sand Viper, and it uses different springs.

[pangRacer]

Hi there

New member here - I've just ordered a DT-02 MS, should arrive within a couple of weeks.

As far as I understand from this thread, the DT-02 is reasonably solid - but can it handle brushless, without breaking a lot?

I'll be using it for bashing.

Another question: How long are the shock springs? Can I use springs from other companies, like HPI MT, which are 57 and 70 mm long.

Thanks :)

Congrats Cole,

The MS does not come with front and rear tires and the springs that comes with it are the hardest among the limited edition white spring set. I have Proline Dirt Hawg in the Rear and Wide 4-Rib on the front. I feel that they are the correct springs with my bashing on rough pavement.

Just take note that the rear tie rod end mounts in the gear case are not that strong, I actually made mods to make it stronger, check my previous posts. Enjoy:)

[nexzzt]

Hi there

New member here - I've just ordered a DT-02 MS, should arrive within a couple of weeks.

As far as I understand from this thread, the DT-02 is reasonably solid - but can it handle brushless, without breaking a lot?

I'll be using it for bashing.

Another question: How long are the shock springs? Can I use springs from other companies, like HPI MT, which are 57 and 70 mm long.

Thanks :)

You will want a fairly mild brushless setup so that you don't have to mess with the gearing too much. My setup is a little hot and I had to modify the engine mount to allow more gearing options (stock only allows for 2 different pinions, 17t and 19t I think, correct me if im wrong guys)

[Cole Trickle]

Hi thecraze, pangRacer and nexzzt. Thanks for replying. :wave:

Okay, I have some on-road cars, and my son recently got a DF-03 (Avante). So now I want a DT-02 for playing around with him. I have most of the needed stuff laying around, but I need a new speedo.

I think I'm going for the Nosram Evil Brushless Reverse (=LRP A.I. Brushless Reverse).

If someone know how long the springs are, I'll appreciate it ;)

[Cole Trickle]

Just take note that the rear tie rod end mounts in the gear case are not that strong, I actually made mods to make it stronger, check my previous posts. Enjoy:)

I believe you're thinking about pics and post on page 49 in this thread?

I think I got the idea, but I dont understand them througout. It'll hopefully help, when I get the car, and can see for myself. Maybe you can provide a pic for some other angels?

[Cole Trickle]

Often people say bad things about Tamiya, so it's very nice to see those good Tamiya threads on this forum. I think the DF-03 is a high value for money kit. The DT-02 MS also looks promising.

I remember a little concersion between a HPI fan and a Tamiya ditto, I once heard; "Tamiya is bad blah, blah, blah". Reply: "Just because you cant make a Tamiya run great, doesnt make it a bad car".

[nexzzt]

I would never buy a tamiya car to race with, but I think they are great for tooling around with.

[Cole Trickle]

I believe you're thinking about pics and post on page 49 in this thread?

I think I got the idea, but I dont understand them througout. It'll hopefully help, when I get the car, and can see for myself. Maybe you can provide a pic for some other angels?

Hi again; Dont bother with pics, I just cancelled my DT-02 MS order, and ordered a DF-03 instead.

[thecraze]

Good luck with that, Cole.

I wouldn't mind racing my Viper....if there was a track any where near here!

[m0ng00se]

What's considered a normal price for the df-03 chassis aluminium trf shocks?