T-Maxx Newbie

[n2hyo]

Let me first appologize for asking a question that has been asked 1000's of times already.

Just got a T-Maxx , what are the essential mods hop-ups that are typicaly done to a tmaxx ?

I have put an rpm 3 piece wear plates on so far, tranny just was hanging out to much for me.

What else should i do for just normal running around, not planning on hitting and 10' ramps or racing at this time.


Thanks All


Mike

[savagemachine]

Hi Mike try looking on back pages as i am sure there was a question regarding this not long ago if not come back to me and ill find out some information out for you mate no problems

Savagemachine

[sinister]

if you plan on hitting ten foot ramps you should also plan on buying a Savage the weemaxx is gonna snap bulkheads,arms,plastic axles (hehe)


or buy the only truely strong bulkheads from Great Assembly RC
these to exact http://www.greatassemblyrc.com/Great_Assembly_7075_T_6_Bulkheads.cfmthe 7075 complete kit a little pricey but worth it in the long run

then get a full set of RPM arms and upgrade your shocks just get the metal body traxxas ones and replace the shafts with the golden MIP shafts

oh you also will need a full set of CVD's from MIP

[Duster_360]

For just running around like your going to do, I'd get a 2 on 3 hump batt pac to replace the alkaline AAs you're going to be burning, it will give you more run time and a more constant voltage on your servos. Also a new switch with a separate charging lead so you can simply plug the rechargeable batt pac in to recharge. I'd get 8 high capacity (mah) rechargeable AA batts for the tx.

If you don't have one, a good batt charger will be needed - should be able to recharge your 7.2, hump pac and the AAs.

You will prob want a better strg servo - a Hitec 645MG servo is a good replacement. The stock servo is lacking in powerfor the hvy tires the Tmaxx comes with. Swap the stock strg servo for the throttle/brake and you'll have 2X the power for that servo. By the time you get all this figured out and done, you'll know what you want/need to do next.

[Puppy]

T-Maxx's do just fine straight "out of the box" for general neighborhood mayham.

I would'nt start pumping money into it until you break stuff & then I would suggest upgrading the broken parts with something better.

But I would recomind adding an inline fuel filter & a failsafe - but other than that just have fun with it.

[ayk_driver]

i have to agree with what everyone has said... reveiver battery...fuel ilter... failsafe.... another good option if/when u want to or have the cash is a better cooling head.... it will help...

[LoafBoB]

aluminum a-arms because they will break and dont be afraid to ask

[67f100StPro]

I say just run it like it is and upgrade when it breaks. I have had a 1st gen maxx for about 2 months now and haven't broke anything yet. I have prob run about half a gal through it and it runs great. The only mods are a OS CV15 with a stinger pipe. I also have a Savage with close to 3 gals on it and I run both of them hard. I'm not quite as hard on the maxx but I don't baby it either. I have upgraded the savage steering to 645 servo and hpi cam saver and my maxx steers better with the stock setup.

[LoafBoB]

Yeah an aftermarket high torque steering servo is a must sence only one servo

[n2hyo]

I can see that it need a beefier steering servo for them big tires, think i will pick up a temp monitor also they are cheap, still breaking it in and seems to be abit hot at time but i have nothing to measure it with. May also change the radio because i would like more throw on the wheel, just seems like there is not as much travel as with other radios i have had in the past 20 years of r/c cars.

What plugs are most of you useing ? was thinking of picking up some MC59 to try, they always worked good in my RC10gt.

Thanks again.

[LoafBoB]

OS-8 but you will have to stretch the glow plug wire for it to fit snug

[ayk_driver]

i found MC-59's were perfect for the maxx.... rite now im using Fox Hot plugs... they seem to work great as well :D

alum. a-arms r ok... i would only race with them but after they bend they r shot... plastic is cheap.... if u want to upgrade the arms i would suggest rpm.... IF you happen to beak them.... u send them back for a FREE replacment!

[savagemachine]

If i was you i would leave the truck as it is if you just want to bash around with it and only if anything breaks then think about replacing it with upgraded stuff.What you must realize is the more ally parts you have on all it does is make the truck heavier and it does not go no faster may look nice thats about it so my advice is why it is all okay leave well alone.

I totally agree get rid of AA batteries and replace with a nice hump pack around 1200mah will do nicely also highly recommend a failsafe as this will stop those nasty run aways which i am not sure if you have had any of these yet. Also steering servo a little crap and to be desired for a little slow on torque and power so yeh upgrade that. That is all i would do for know and just play and have fun.

I have got a 1200mah hump pack new and also a Hitec HS5645MG digital servo brand new all of these which i am selling if interested just give me a email or shout.

Hope this advice helps you out a little good luck and enjoy

Savagemachine :) :cool:

[Puppy]

I get pretty good battery times off of Radio Shack 2000mah Nimh rechargable AA's.

[savagemachine]

We were not saying about running time if he is going to upgrade servo to higher torque one then AA batteries are a little sluggish on steering hump pack gives you more power and faster turning time.

Savagemachnie

[Puppy]

I dont understand Savagemachine.

5 cell Nimh pack: (@ 1200mah, 6 volts) is better than: four Nimh AA's: (@ 2000mah, 5.6volts)?

Does .4th of a volt make that much of a difference? is it worth almost slashing the battery life (mah) in half to get?

I am interested in learning a bit more about this stuff, any resources on the web about battery FAQ & such?

[savagemachine]

You will be suprised wah ta 1/4 of a volt will do to the steering of the truck yes as you get in to it more you will see what i mean about hump packs and there initial performance than AA i am not understating your comment just putting my prefernce forward and across to give people the best advice as my knowledge will let me.

Savagemachine

[Puppy]

That's cool, I am here to learn as much as I can.

I have been playing with these things for along time, but I never really got seriously into how the stuff works.

I am starting too get more serious about them though, so I am trying to learn about all of the various aspects of RC'ing.

If .4 volts makes that much of a difference I will have to look into getting a couple 5 cell packs.

[RespirologyRC]

If you decide that you must have aluminum get these parts:
1. Front (only) alum bulkhead
2. Lower suspension arms (not the top, no one ever breaks a top arm)
3. hump pack

That's all assuming your just using a .18 or smaller engine

[kitty]

I agree with some of the guys. Just run it until you start breaking stuff. If you want spares ahead of time, I recommend RPM suspension arms and a spare set of bulkheads.

5 cell Nimh pack: (@ 1200mah, 6 volts) is better than: four Nimh AA's: (@ 2000mah, 5.6volts)?

Does .4th of a volt make that much of a difference? is it worth almost slashing the battery life (mah) in half to get?
Got your voltage wrong. Four NiMH batteries would be 4.8v, not 5.6. Each cell is 1.2v. You could run five NiMH AAs, but the 2/3A cells that are usually used in hump packs handle the current better.

[Puppy]

Kitty,

Yea they are marked 1.2v, but I "cherry picked" using my multimeter to match a set of 4 that were all 1.4v - I was trying to get as close to the standard alkaline AA 1.5 volts as I could.

I will probably get a couple of hump packs anyway just becouse I hate having to unscrew & disassemble my battery box to recharge my batteries.

Any recomindations?

[Duster_360]

I've seen hump pacs that are higher capacity - I have a 1650mah pac in mine from Ballistic Batteries and I think their biggest is something like 2700mah right now. Someone told me you can get the 2700's on ebay too.

Change out the stock switch for one with a charging lead built in. That way, all you do to charge the pac is turn it off (should be off anyway, lol!) and plug the charge lead into your charger. Easy as that. This switch is a direct swap for the stock switch, I've done it with all 7 of my rcs - just got tired of fooling with the batt box!!

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXH462&P=ML

Ballistic - its 2500mah, 6th item down, you can see what else they offer too

http://www.ballisticbatteries.com/Page.cfm?Category2=Receiver&InfoID=200&Search=