Clutch Bell

[BoDuke]

Is a 15tooth bell with 49tooth spur more for racing or offroading and 18tooth with 49tooth spur same?

[twistedtrik]

15/49= lower geared, more lowend 18/49=more top speed, less lowend.

[savagemachine]

twistedtrik brat me to it this time but yeh go along with that 1 i run 15tooth clutch and 49 spur on my savage 25ss that i race and find no problems with this set up

Savagemachine

[BoDuke]

check out my clutchbell
[IMG]http://www.msnusers.com/MyRctruckpics/shoebox.msnw?action=ShowPhoto&PhotoID=3[IMG]

[BoDuke]

do any of you just go with a plastic spur or metal? I have metal and it seems to be reshaping my clutchbell.

[twistedtrik]

i refuse to use metal spurs, that is my opinion. i spent 40 bucks for the hub and gear and it along with my clutchbell was toast in less than a gallon. yes, everything was meshed correctly and the clutchbell was aligned. i figure if i tear up a stock spur, its 4 bucks. i am still running the original one on my monster gt that actually came on the truck 3 gallons or so ago.

[slowhanddd]

I'm running the 18/49 MGT gears and bell on my Picco 27 powered maxx.I also run the 8 spider UE diffs.No problems with the plastic gears.I agree alot cheaper to replace if you screw up and strip one.Slow

[Duster_360]

slowhanddd - are you having probs with the OWB housing cracking on your 27 Picco? I've read of a lot of probs on the Ofna Picco engines forum with the housing cracking and letting the OWB go.

Is yours the PS ver? Pullstarts are supposed to be weak on this bigger engine (same as the 26). Just curious if I've bought a lemon (got mine a week ago). I wanted to get a roto-start backplate for mine, but they say thats the worst for the OWB prob. Thanks!!

Sorry, don't mean to hi-jack your thread!

[twistedtrik]

duster, i have been hearing alot of the picco OWB housings cracking. on both the roto and pull versions. .27's are supposed to be alot worse.

[Duster_360]

Yeah, me too. Didn't see anything about it til after I bought it darn it, but totally my fault for not researching it better. All I had to do was go to the Ofna forums, its all over the Picco engine thread. Seems they're "working" on it, but the new ones are cracking too.

This adds a bit of motivation to me getting mine together and running so I can get replacements. They only warranty this engine for 30days, but I guess with this prob they would make exceptions if its just the OWB housing.

[twistedtrik]

i'm not real familiar with these engines, but i was just relaying what i have read about them. some of them are not cracking and some are. i guess its just the luck of the draw kinda like the mach .26's. ;)

[Duster_360]

Thanks, that the same for me too, read lots about the OWB housing prob from a handful of people - that's why I was asking slowhanddd what he has experienced with his. Hopefully, he will see this and let us know!

[slowhanddd]

I must be one of the lucky ones.So far only about 1/2 gallon through it and no problems with anything.OWB is still holding up and the pull start is great.The only problem is I broke the wing.I have small wheels under the rear edge and use it as a wheely bar.Cracked the wing up pretty bad.Slow

[BoDuke]

well what about this http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&W=000050687&I=LXHVD0&P=K
has any body tried these?

[Duster_360]

Haven't tried them, but don't like the fact that the pinion screws onto the body of the CB, just another threaded part to worry abouy coming loose, lol!
Make sure to use some blue loctite, if you buy those.

It's hot here in TX and I've started switching to vented CBs whenever I have to change one and things seem cooler. Was having prob with hard starting after shuting down to refuel. Now that doesn't seem to be as much of a prob since I've gone to vented CB.

slowhanddd - thanks, I hope I'm as lucky with my 27!

[BoDuke]

i dont see were you would put the pinion screw, but thats just my opinion

[Duster_360]

No, thats not what I meant. Usually the pinion gear is one piece with the CB - its made all together.

The one you linked, the pinion gear (the round part with the teeth) screws onto the threaded end sticking out of the CB. This CB is 2 pieces, not one. I think this is more for onroad than offroad, but thats guesswork. I wouldn't like having the chance that the pinion could come unscrewed at some point. WIth all the other CBs out there, juts not worth worrying about.

Its not like this is design going to save you anything - if you were using this and wnated to change pinions, CB's still got to come off and you still have to set the mesh again when you put it together.

[slowhanddd]

Well the Werks tmaxx clutch has the screw on teeth.I have one and havn't had any troubles with it.If you can change them without having to take out the motor that would be pretty cool.loosen the motor mounts and reset your mesh and you would be back up and going in half the time.Might have to try that one out.Slow

[Duster_360]

I guess I'm just catching on to this kind of clutch. Is there something special about the CB used on this kind of clutch that they would go with screwed on pinions so you can use the same bell? Obviously, if you're using it, it works, and that says a lot. Still not thrilled about having a screwed connection in such a critical place.

I'm building a Predator with either a OS18TM or a 27Picco (have both engines - deciding what I want to play with). Friend of mine is having all kinds of clutch issues with his Predator running a OS18TM - killing clutches in a few tanks. I've gotten interested in these since they've been recommended to handle the extra power. Which shoes are you using? The other issue on these when they 1st came was springs were too weak, I guess thats been rtesolved - are you using the stock spring? Thanks

Another quest - I've been several places that sell these and no one has the 15t pinion that I'd be needing. They aren't advertised on Werks site either? Call them?

[slowhanddd]

Duster,go with the BB 27 and get the UE 4 shoe clutch.Stock springs and shoes.Hook up is great and going on my second gallon and no problems.I did get the shoes hot trying out the 20/49 combo but went back to the 18/49 and no slipping at all.You can mod the clutch nut by drilling it out and rethreading the thing for the OS engine and use the 1/8 clutch setup on it.Major PITA tho.Stock clutch isn't going to last long with the power of the OS engine.Slow

[Duster_360]

I'm not sure what motor mount I'd have to use. The 27 sure won't fit on the Dace motor mount I have now. I'd be a kick-n-a-half to put the 27picco in the Predator though!

The 1/8th clutch setup won't let me use the std Dace mount for the OS18 unless I'm going to do that drilling and re-threading - I'll need the offset mount, which is not a big deal, but that locks me into the 18. I don't run the stock clutch now- the FR18 in my Slayden Race Maxx (guts of this going into the Predator) proved too much for that - GA 3 shoe alum has not had any probs - just gets a little warm sometimes!

Does UE have a BB motor mount that will let me put the 27 on the Predator? Guess I need to go over there and ask these questions, lol! I'm trying not to have the probs my bud has had with his - I don't have the time (job) and I want to run, not be fixing probs like he's been doing. Thanks!

[slowhanddd]

Why not ditch the pred chassis and go with the Thunder?It's about 1 3/4" longer and the BB or SB will work.They come up for sale quite often.I got mine for $100.Slow