RC10GT Brushless conversion

[Rtsbasic]

Hello, Thought I'd start a new project so I've just picked up an RC10GT to convert to brushless. I was hoping you guys/gals might be able to help me find some bits. Specifically a motor plate, I could use an Academy/MRC sb sport one but I'm looking for ideally a cheaper alternative. And battery mounts, what does everyone use on converted cars? Velcro straps or proper bars?

Once I'm done I'm hoping it'll be a stronger car than my T3, and it'll be a very uncommon car to see over here running electric. I plan to run it on 8 cells and my Mtroniks Genesis pro combo, although I might pick up a lower revving motor in the future for it.

Cheers.

[kufman]

I built my own motor plate for my GT conversion. I used some scrap angle aluminum, a hack saw, a drill press and a dremel.

Lots of people like using the associated battery cups that used to come with the earlier rc10 series cars. Here is a picture of my reuse of the motor mount on a different car.

http://kufman.com/img/Stuff/car_pics/ofna%20motor%20mount.JPG

[Rtsbasic]

Thats exactly what I need. Don't suppose you fancy making me one for a price? If you do please email me rtsbasic@yahoo.com and we can sort something out. I don't have access to good tools like a drill press until I'm back in college which is quite a while away yet, but I'd like to have this conversion up and running in the next couple of weeks if possible.

I'll look into the battery cups, I recall seeing the ones you mean on the early cars in some pictures. Thanks for your advice.

[kufman]

Which version of the GT do you have? is it the old one with the folded tub chassis or the new one with the blue chassis?

[Rtsbasic]

New one with the blue chassis. Made a point of not getting the old tub style one.

[Rtsbasic]

OK got my GT, I took a hacksaw, a hammer and pair of plyers to a B3 motor plate, and came up with a reasonable temp solution, it held the motor in place nicely for the test run and the gear mesh is set fine.

Still trying to think of the best way to have the batteries, at the min I resoldered a pack to 4x3 saddle config and taped it to the chassis, will ultimately run it 4x4 and probably in the same layout, its just finding a way better than tape to keep them in place. At the min the car has a nice low CoG and handles really well..dare I say it better than my T3..probably because the weights further forward, I didn't think it'd handle as smooth and grippy as it does :)

[Rtsbasic]

A better photo of the motor mount..

[kufman]

Looks like it will work. Did you bolt the plate from the bottom? you may want to use a ti-rod between on of those extra holes above the motor to tie the motor plate to the gear box. You could remove one of the screws that hold the little plastic brace between the gearbox and shock tower and replace it will a ball stud. Then put a ball stud on of of those holes on the motor plate and use a tie rod to hold it all together. This will prevent chassis flex from changing your gear mesh.

[kufman]

Looks like it will work. Did you bolt the plate from the bottom? you may want to use a ti-rod between on of those extra holes above the motor to tie the motor plate to the gear box. You could remove one of the screws that hold the little plastic brace between the gearbox and shock tower and replace it will a ball stud. Then put a ball stud on of of those holes on the motor plate and use a tie rod to hold it all together. This will prevent chassis flex from changing your gear mesh.

[Rtsbasic]

Good idea, I will try that tomorrow thanks. The plate is secured from the bottom by two chunky screws with nuts and plastic washers, since the first run when I got it secured and meshed correctly it hasn't moved or flexed at all :)

I've used it now for 3 full battery packs on 7 GP3300 cells, geared 18/84 (48 pitch) its got a nice amount of power (Mtroniks genesis pro combo), less than my T3 but its quite a bit heavier so I was expecting that. Also no wheelies, but this is probably because the slipper actually slips and no wheeies = good 99% of the time (I figured if the car got stuck in long grass I'd rather it slipped than grind the spur gear because I wasn't sure if the plate was going to move or not). Going to try on 8 cells tomorrow and tighten the slipper, see how much I can push it before something goes wrong.

[Rtsbasic]

OK I've adjusted how the plate is mounted, and drilled some holes in the chassis for proper battery mounts/better motor mounts. The plate is now secured from 2 sorta countersunk quite small screws on the bottom and has a tie rod bracing it against the gearbox/tower brace as you suggested. I started to have a problem of when the screws I was using before caught on something when the car bottomed out it'd shift the plate, this shouldn't happen anymore.

Also changed gearing to 16/93 but doesn't feel right to not have some top end when I ask for it :) Car handled the torque well though..bit of wheelspin with the bald tyres onroad, but it shot off in a straight line when you let it wheelspin so its balance must be reasonablely good. The car weighed in at 2.19kg RTR with a 7 cell pack eariler which is heavier than my T3 but acceptable.

[kufman]

sool, sounds like you got it setup pretty well.