Brushless Esc and Motors, THE TRUTH!

[Jackyl]

Can we get some facts out on the table?

What is the least amp brushless esc that will run say a brushless 540 sized motor? 60amp, 80amp, 90amp? Will this do it?

Weight : 40 grams / 1.41 oz.
Size : 75 x 25 x 10 mm / 3 x 1 x 0.4 in.
Constant Current : 60A
Max Current : 80A
FET : 24
BEC : Yes, 4A
TIMING : Programmable - 3/8/15/30
PWM : Programmable - 8/16/32K
Input : 2 to 5 cell Li-Poly or 6/18 Ni-MH
Low-Voltage Cutoff : Programmable
-High Programmable PWM
-18 cells Max (with BEC disabled)
-User programmable brake
-Low voltage auto setting based on battery
-Throttle range self-adjusting
-Soft start ramp up
-Runs motor in forward or reverse
-Auto motor cutoff with reset
-Safe power arming program ensures motor will not run accidentally after turn on
-Low torque starting
-Fail safe when signal is lost

Hacker Master car sport esc specs:
Adjustable Timing from 2-30 degrees.
Adjustable Current Limit or No Current Limit
Fully proportional "No Fade" Brake System
Programable Reverse "On or Off"
6-12 cells, 66amps cont., 90 amps Peak.
Continous High Power operation, under the most demanding conditions!!


That is the differance between a $60 esc and a $200 dallor


I see a 10 amp differance between the two. You can buy the $60 esc and then buy a novak ss4300 or ss5800 or neo-1 and use it with that esc. all brushless esc's will use either sensored or sensorless motors. novak and lrp use sensored motors because they can do things like make the package go thermal if you gear it wrong. where as higher end units it's up to you to keep and eye on the temps and gear it properly.

I've done alot of research and talked to alot of guys about this. Including electronic guys that know way more than I do about electronics. And they all say as long as it will supply the amperage then it will be fine. w=a * v So I tried to do it with only watts and amps and it came out. So I think that I'm going to buy that $60 esc and get a neo 1 and put it in my T4 with 6 cell 3300mah packs and go to town. I doubt that it will say "i'm in a car not in a heli or plane I'm not going to work".

Let me know. And remember all this stuff that we are buying is overseas already for less money, and with a differant label on it.

[Rtsbasic]

The first one is designed for planes mostly, although it would work in a car I'm not sure if it'd be good enough control/smooth enough to race or not. Oh and the second one comes in a hard case with a heatsink, the first one comes as a circuit wrapped in heatshrink with a sticker on.

60 amps with 80 peaks is fine for a lot of motors, I had an early Mtroniks ESC that was designed for cars, but only handled 35 constant/60 peaks. It got quite warm sometimes but overall powered the motor nicely (the motor was similar to a Feigao 380 7s, but had a problem of the magnets always coming loose).

[elcid4300]

For what it's worth, a popular company that produces brushless motors/ESCs told me the hold up they had getting their new Motor/ESC to the market was that they thought they could just take a plane motor and ESC and sell it as a car set-up........Unfortunately for them, that wasn't the case. I don't know if this means anything to you, but I just thought I'd share.

EPK

[ducati777]

One of the problems with plane/boat controllers is that the throttle often dictates rpm, not power. Meaning if you are rolling at 30 mph and just let off the throttle, the car will go into full brake mode, not coast. Not sure if thats the case with above stated ESC, but the... crap can't remember the name..... grrrrr.....

I know this is a useless post without a good example. Anyway find someone who owns that $60 esc and see if its suitable for a car. If so, I say go for it.

[kufman]

Most sensorless controllers do not run novak motors very well. I have tried the novak 5800 on a u-force75, hacker sport, and an MGM comm pro and none of them like to run it. All 3 had a terrible time getting it to start up off the line. I have no problems with these controllers running my shadow, basic 4200, feigao 10L, or my aveox RC7. Car controllers have special software to deal with a "loaded startup". Airplanes, boats and heli's don't have a ton of load for the first few revolutions of the motor so their startup programs can be much simpler. That is why airplane controllers don't work very well in cars. Airplanes also don't have outside influences on motor sync. Cars bounce around and jump which causes abrupt changes in RPM and the controller has to resync all the time. Just thought you might want to know.

[Jackyl]

We are getting alot of information here guys! thanks. This is what I was after! It really seems like it all comes down to the software "firmware" of the esc that dictates it's application.

Does it matter if the brakes are user programmable? And the startup the startup might be a problem with the first esc as it says low torque startup.

I wish that I could find a new brushless setup for under 110 or close to it. But I think that isn't going to happen.

I'm sure that there area alot of people out there that would make the switch to brushless in a heartbeat if there was a cheaper alternative to the costly setups that are currenly out there.

check THIS (http://cgi.ebay.com/60AMP-Brushless-Motor-Electric-Speed-Control-ESC-60A_W0QQitemZ5992528008QQcategoryZ2563QQssPageName ZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem) It says servo :D I emailed them so I'll get some harsh english response back maybe. But looking at the stats I'm leaning towards getting this one.

Description & Features
Our servos are made for AIRPLANE, HELICOPTERS, BOATS, CARS, ENGINEERS, EVERYONE !!!!

Description :
- Weight : 40 grams / 1.41 oz. (with wire)
- Size : 75 x 25 x 10 mm / 3 x 1 x 0.4 in.
- Constant Current : 60A
- Max Current : 80A
- FET : 24
- BEC : Yes, 4A
- TIMING : Programmable - 3/8/15/30
- PWM : Programmable - 8/16/32K
- Input : 2 to 5 cell Li-Poly or 6/18 Ni-MH
- Low-Voltage Cutoff : Programmable

Features :
- Low resistence
- High rate PWM
- Sixteen cells Max (with BEC disabled)
- User programmable brake
- User programmable low-voltage cutuoff
- User programmable timing advance
- User programmable PWM
- Throttle range self-adjusting
- Soft start ramp up
- Runs motor in forward or reverse
- Auto motor cutoff with reset
- Safe power arming program ensures motor will not run accidentally after turn on
- Low torque start
- Auto shut down when signal is lost





Setup Menu
SETUP MENU (only for 40A, 60A, 100A, 140A)

Type
Current
FET
BEC
Timing Mode
PWM
LI
NiHM

40-N
Normal: 40A /Max: 60A
18
5V/4A
3/8/15/30
8/16/32K
2/5
6/18

60-N
Normal: 60A /Max: 80A
24
5V/4A
3/8/15/30
8/16/32K
2/5
6/18


BEC work under 3LIPO(10cell NIMh/NiCd)
5LIPO or 18 cells NIMh/NiCd MAX with BEC disabled

First, connect the motor and receiver to the speed controller
Remove battery power from the speed controller.
Turn on the transmitter.
Move throttle stick on full power position, (UP Position)
Reconnect battery power to the speed controller
After 3sec you can hear (all sound is 3times)
∮— 　　 　　　　　　　　CELL Type AND Number
∮— — 　 　　　　　　　　BRAKE
∮— — —　 　　　　　　　TIMING MODE
∮— — — —　　　　　　　PWM

ON you need programming menu, move the throttle stick to the middle position

1, CELL Type AND Number
•—　　　　　　　　　NiMh/Nicd AUTO（0.8V/CELL*）
•——　　　　　　　　3LIPO （2.75V/CELL）
•———　　　　　　　4LIPO（2.75V/CELL）
•————　　　　　　5LIPO（2.75V/CELL）
* IF used 2LIPO you can use the option (select the NiMh/Nicd AUTO)

2, BRAKE
••—　　　　　　　　　NO
•••——　　　　　　　SOFT
•••———　　　　　　MID
•••————　　　　　HARD

3, TIMING MODE
••••—　　　　　　　　 3º
•••••——　　　　　　 8º
•••••••———　　　15º
•••••••————　　30º

4, PWM
••••—　　　　　　　 8KHZ
•••••——　　　　　16KHZ
•••••••———　　32KHZ

IF the option is you need, then move the throttle stick to UP position.
The long BEEP is save the option. and the system will go to the programming menu.
You can setup other options.
When all you need option is setup OK, push the throttle stick to down position, after 1sec the system were save all option, then you can start the motor now !!

[kufman]

I am not sure about the low torque startup thing. This type of programmable brakes may be more like a prop brake, hard to say. It would be nice to get something this cheap, but the last time I did that I got a piece of junk!

[Jackyl]

I wish someone that already has a novak setup or a sphere setup would help us out. They can buy that esc and then try it. If it works they can sell it to one of us. If not they can just ebay it. Either way it's no loss. And will help out the community! :D

[Jackyl]

Here is yet another one. But this one says it right in the description "cars".

More features for expert class performance, higher priced.



Programmable modes: different default settings for different model types including glider, airplane, heli, car and boat, reversable rotation and competition.


Ultra-low noise suppression circuitry for super-clean BEC power control to the Rx.


Measures motor inductance and winding resistance and matches power accordingly.


Adjustable soft-start timing.


Custom "partial load capability" design allows for very high efficiency (good!) when operating at less than full power (brushless systems are most inefficient when operated at less than full power, which can cause overheating and lower flight times).


Adjustable frequency from 8kHz to ultra-high 32kHz for super smooth control and high effiency operation.
EMF brake with 10 brake strength settings.


Capable of much higher RPMs.


Variable current limiting.


Audible tones and LED for easy setupn.


Adjustable low voltage cutoff protection (0.8V default for NiCd and NiMH).


26 x 56mm, thickness varies from 7.5 to 11mm.





Model Stock Number # Cells Input BEC Max. Constant
Current Max. Surge
Current Weight
(w/wires)
Jazz 40-6-18 KONM3100 6-18 Yes 40A 50A 33g $169.99
Jazz 55-10-32 KONM3130 10-32 Yes 55A 70A 38g $269.99 from tower hobbies.

Full kontroniks esc list (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0091p?&C=MJF&V=KON)


More features for the advanced pilot
Sensorless, no sensor signals from the motor are required.
Different programmable modes for airplanes, helicopters, gliders,
gliders, cars, boats, competition level and reversible rotation

More features for the advanced pilot? Says right there "cars". But this esc is under the airplane esc section and is also advertised on their site for airplanes. If this is true then why does the description say "cars"? I emailed them in hopes of getting any answer. The price is to much but the ebay 60a esc listed above has the same specs as this kontroniks jass 55 esc.

I'll get to the bottome of this one way or another. I've search numerous forums for threads that have talked about using aircraft esc's for land based usage and I have found nothing on it. other than maybe a little talk here and there saying that it will not work for this or that reason.

I honestly think that we are all being played for fools!! The companies are just taking the same unit and selling them for airplanes and then saying "nope it will not work for your application".

Tell me guys am I the only one that is questioning this? Can I get a rally here? Some picket's and some "heck no, we won't buy your overpriced brushless systems"

Oh, here's a joke. There is a tech "so called" at castle creations that told me that he fried 20+ barracuda 125's in an emaxx :D LOL he has 2 7 cell 3300mah packs hooked up to this esc :D I lost alot of faith in CC after that email :cool:

I'd really like to see someone that has some type of electronic's degree or electrical engeneering degree pop in here and help me figure out some of these questions.

The only variable so far is the software "firmware" But in all reality the way the esc takes TX inputs doesn't matter if it's in a plane,boat,car,heli. it's either variable in between on and off. or just on or off. Just like how a rheostat works. you can alter the voltage by turning the knob.


Enough of the rant. I'll let someone else talk. There will be a day of a 150 dallor esc and brushless motor combo. AND IT IS COMING!!

[glassdoctor]

I think you are barking up a tree with no cats in it.... ;)

I agree that there should be cheaper escs for us, but...

There is a reason that we don't use plane/heli/boat escs. They just don't work well. Several years ago a lot of guys were using them because that's about all there was.

The CC guy I think was trying to make a point to you that you missed. They did a lot of experimenting and found.... the emaxx is much more demanding than planes and boats. They thought they could just tweak their current escs and use it for cars, but they actually had to completely redesign one for cars and make it much more durable to handle the abuse that cars and trucks dish out.

Some food for thought... there have been several controllers marketed for cars that sucked, frankly. These were obviously just tweaked plane controllers and it showed. Cogging, overheating, meltdown, horrible brakes, poor software control (like options that only planes need, etc.) have been some of the problems.

Also, there are VERY few controllers of any type out there that are capable of powering a good emaxx setup for example. You need to be looking for 100+ amps continuous especially if it's a plane esc. 150-200A would be better.

[standard_63]

I'm leaning toward the MGM 160, I just would like to hear a few reviews before I jump in. Otherwise it's a pretty big jump up to a 150A BK or Schulze! -- One thing I've learned for sure in this hobby is that usually 'cheap' never applies~! Especially when it comes to my Emaxx. Now that I've spent the $$ to make the truck bulletproof for the power, the motor and ESC need upgrading again. It sure is fast 'til it overheats. :) Supermaxx Fiegao 10L and Hacker Comp; 4s 6000 lipos --> it scoots~!

[Gojira]

i dont think 150-200$ is to much for a bl esc considering that allmost all the high end race esc for brushed motors are 140$+

[Rtsbasic]

No but if brushless was to become cheaper than brushed (in the short run as well as the long term) it would become a much bigger option to a lot of people. If someone starts out in RC with brushless - even a mild system, odds are they won't want to run brushed.

Oh and a controller comparable to the "top end" brushed ESC's isn't your MGM or Warrior 7018 controllers for under $200, its more like your U-Force 75's, Mtroniks Genesis, etc. $250-$300 mark.

[Jackyl]

Glassdoctorl; I'm looking for a brushless setup for my T4. I know that an emax would be double the power required for my T4 and then some. And the guy from CC didn't say anything about tweaking the software. He said that he smoked 20+ esc's trying to get them to work. I said your trying to get it to work for the wrong application. Try a Neo-1 and that barracuda 125 in a stadium truck and I bet your out come will be better!

[bholio]

The only variable so far is the software "firmware" But in all reality the way the esc takes TX inputs doesn't matter if it's in a plane,boat,car,heli. it's either variable in between on and off. or just on or off. Just like how a rheostat works. you can alter the voltage by turning the knob.

You're right that the firmware is the most significant difference between car and non-car ESCs, although I suspect that the electronics in a car ESC might need to be a bit stronger.

However, the software doesn't apply a variable voltage based on tx inputs. It needs to sense the position of the rotor in the motor (with sensors, or via some sensorless mechanism), and then apply power to the correct pair of wires for a brief instant until it figures out that the rotor moved and the next pair of wires needs power. All the while regulating how much power each pair gets by pulsing on/off rapidly. We're talking a few thousand revs per second on these motors. A lot of processing to perform. In addition the car is bouncing around going up and down hills, off jumps etc. All effects the motors speed.

I don't think the software is that simple to write. Look at how many car brushless products have been delayed for months after being announed. Probably seemed simple to do, until they really got into it. Look at the initial problems with the early production Novak SS. The huge delays of the Sphere and Mamba Maxx. Team Orion Vortex which may or may not exist. The growing delay of the Novak GTB. The MGM 120 braking issues.

I do not believe there is a conspiracy to screw over the car people. The airplane folks needed the efficiency of brushless a few years earlier than we did, so theirs were done first. Its all being re-invented for cars.

[Jackyl]

Now that is some solid basis!! So a sensored brushless system is by far a smarter system than a sensorless system. I was leaning towards that conclusion. Especially after finding some used novak SS5800 setups with the + esc for around 135. That is less that the new 60amp esc and neo-1 motor that I mentioned above. and it's sensored :D

Sensored give you: Smooth starting, and braking, and thermal protection without a heat gun. Focused towards racing market

Sensorless give you: POWER. cogging, overheating, and may cause failure. Focused towards bashing and power head market.


All the "cogging stories" that I hear about are all focused towards sensorless brushless setups. My mamba comp x that I had in my rc18t would cog like that.

See another thing is my local hobby shops either know nothing about brushless or they say ALL brushless sucks. I argue with them all the time and now I don't even spend my money at their shops anymore.

I hope that this thread carries on with more factual data that we the consumer can base a informed descition on. I know for myself I'm going to buy a used Novak SS system. I can't afford new and I don't feel that they are worth 200+!. And my needs are simple. The same power as 10 x 2 revolution, using 6 cell 3300mah packs. A little more power will be nice but it's not needed. I know for a fact that the SS4800 will push a T4 to 40mph. And my T4 with my brushed 10x2 would maybe hit 28mph staying with a gearing that was race worthy. Not just gearing for top end.

I think that the biggest thing is know how much you want to spend, Know what you want to get for power, and then comprimise!

I sure hope someday there will be more options instead of just novak and lrp for a sensored system. and the same goes for options with the esc's.

I doubt that castle creations brushless setups for the 1/10th scale and monster trucks will be out anytime soon. And I didn't even know about team orion Vortex.

[glassdoctor]

I have the Novak SS and an Orion Revolution 12X2. The overall power and speed is similar IMO, although the powerband and gearing is totally different. And the Novak runs hotter of course.

The guy at Castle maybe was a dork, I don't know. The guys I have talked to there weren't that stupid, but they did seem surprised how difficult is was to make a good reliable car controller. They had to redesign the entire unit to withstand the current spikes from cars which are several times higher than what planes do. I talked to them last winter and they had a new prototype circuit board to test, so they are definitely not just tweaking the Phoenix or Barracuda etc.

After seeing how good their little Mamba is, I will assume they know what they are doing and they will have a nice "full size" product soon.

Patience. Good things come to those who wait. And with new brushless toys, we definitely have to wait........... :( but the more we wait the better things are getting. Oh, I mean excpet for the $ exchange rate that is. ;)

[Jackyl]

glass, is that the novak SS5800 old style or with the newer esc "the plus version" ? And when you say it gets hot, are you talking about the esc or the motor?

[bholio]

All the "cogging stories" that I hear about are all focused towards sensorless brushless setups. My mamba comp x that I had in my rc18t would cog like that.


The sensored system is the older technology. The sensors are required to tell the controller the position of the motor. Sensorless has some other way of inferring the motor position, which works best at higher speeds, however, they are being improved all the time.

The nice thing about sensorless is that, so far anyway, they are capable of handling huge batttery voltage. 12, 16, 18+ cells or 5s, 6s LiPos. If you want to hit 80, or run an 1/8th buggy or, you will be best off with sensorless. There are also more motor choices for sensorless. You can run 380 motors (smaller, lighter) in 1/10 cars and still have good power. Combine this with LiPo and you can have a very lightweight setup.

Get the used Novak. You will really llike it. Its a nice system. I do have a hard time believing you will see 40 in a T4 however. On mine, the ESC runs much hotter than the motor. I have the non-plus version which I bought new just before the Plus came out.

I hope the Mamba Maxx is not too expensive when it comes out as I would like to try one of those too.

[tcolesen]

Now that is some solid basis!! So a sensored brushless system is by far a smarter system than a sensorless system. I was leaning towards that conclusion. Especially after finding some used novak SS5800 setups with the + esc for around 135. That is less that the new 60amp esc and neo-1 motor that I mentioned above. and it's sensored :D

Sensorless is by FAR smarter than sensored. The rotor position has to be detected, which is what makes it smarter. Sensors tell the controller the position of a rotor in a sensored system (I know I am just restating bholio on this). Unless by smarter, you mean smarter for the average hobbyist that could care less about having as much power as a brushed motor (besides the torque). Soon, low cost sensorless systems will become available. For example, the Feigao 380 motors are $50-60. This is cheaper than a brand new Novak SS5800 motor (which in fact has a 400 size rotor). The prices for sensorless are the controllers right now, as the technology is newer (as stated) and not as well developed yet. The "smartness" that a sensorless CAR BL controller needs is so great that it has delayed the production of products like the Mamba 1/18 system, the current line of MGM controllers, and the yet-to-be-released Mamba Maxx controller.


Sensored give you: Smooth starting, and braking, and thermal protection without a heat gun. Focused towards racing market

Sensorless give you: POWER. cogging, overheating, and may cause failure. Focused towards bashing and power head market.

All the "cogging stories" that I hear about are all focused towards sensorless brushless setups. My mamba comp x that I had in my rc18t would cog like that.

There are a lot of people that use sensorless for racing. With technology getting better, cogging is virtually being eliminated. At this point in time, batteries are the greates cause of cogging. Your RC18T might have cogged because of batteries that couldn't handle the load placed on them, or maybe the software of your controller was the older version (newer versions can be downloaded and put onto the controller via the USB cable). Software is one thing that can cause cogging (there needs to be a program that can detect the position of the rotor as well as possible). This is why airplane controllers don't work well for cars.

[Jackyl]

GREAT INFO GUYS!! keep it comin'

And when I said "smarter" I was referring to sensored motors being smarter than the sensorless. If I remember correcty I was told by a manufactuer when I emailed them that the sensorless brushless motors only dump the 3phase to the motor, it doesn't matter whe the rotor position is it just goes and if something if off it will cog till it gets back into sync. Also sensorless do not have the ability to go thermal. They just go THERMAL! :D I know that my mamba 25 you had to watch the operating temps because you could damage them. With a sensored motor you don't have to worry about that the esc monitors the temp and will shut down the system if it gets to hot. I like that! it's kinda like insurance for an expensive set. So for that fact I like sensored setups. And I'm not into the big electric power. If I want big power I'd buy a 1/5th scale or EK4, I would mess with mad cell counts for electric.

Personally I'm only after something that I will only use 6 nimh cells with nothing more as I will be primarilly racing it. But I want a turn key setup. no maintance other than charging batters or working on truck setups or driving techniques:D

The new novak is looking to be a bit overkill for me. the novak 8.5 system will probably be more powerfull than my team orion 12x2 so that is what I'm going to shoot for. But I wanted to get alot of technicall info out on the table to maybe help others in their descisions with brushless purchases and to answer questions "as there is SOOOOO many of them" :D

keep it comin' guys!! :cool:

[Gojira]

if fou are runnin a v2 12x2 its more like a cheep 9 turn motor
,i run a 13x2 v2 in my xxx4 and my buddy was running a cheep 10x1 (15$) and we have allmost the same lap times and ive herd different stories about the 8.5 system some say its like a stock motor with more torque some say its more like a 19turn some say its like a 12 turn its all pretty cofusing to me i think the only true way to find out the trueth is to bite the bullet and buy one

[scoob]

SS5800= 13 turn speed with a great deal more torque. This is from my experience comparing it to brushed motors. Just throwing another opinion out there.

[ElectricThunder]

SS5800= 13 turn speed with a great deal more torque. This is from my experience comparing it to brushed motors. Just throwing another opinion out there.
On the average, I agree with you. I say it's about a 13x3 or 12x2 or something like that. Probably closer to the 13 turn. :D

[Jackyl]

Right from the guy at novak.

http://4wdrc.com/podcasts.htm click the one that say Novaks Charlie Swanka talks about novak SS brushless systems and the new gtb + velocity motors.


Awesome listen!! But to answer the question add 4 to the brushless turn and that is about right for the brushed motor equivalent. So the novak SS5800 is a 8.5 brushless = 12.5 - 13 brushed, With more torque than a 9turn! Soo, more torque gear taller, It'll pull that tall gear off the line and then the less rpm will be taken care of with the taller gearing. It's all a gearing game and temp game when you really get down to it.

And the software is the main magic behind these systems! I say within the next 3 years we will see brushless push to the point that it may even be offered in RTR vehicles with lipo's :D

[Jev]

For car use sensored is a superior system compared to senorless.

Any difference in power output/effeciency is not down it being sensored or sensorless.

But sensored will ALWAYS have better torque from a standing start (races can be won from the grid start)

Another very important feature for car use is drag breaking adjustments. The only systems I know that have this are the novak and lrp/nosram systems. This allows neutral on the throttle to have a slight braking affect. You can then enter the corners with enough turn in and braking without having to have to apply any small amount of braking on your transmitter.

On-road touring cars put massive load demands on the motor and esc due to high levels of grip. Not many plane esc can handle this.

[TheSteve]

The Schulze U-Force has drag brake - but it does need the PC programming cable to adjust it.

[ElectricThunder]

On-road touring cars put massive load demands on the motor and esc due to high levels of grip. Not many plane esc can handle this.
So a plane ESC could theoretically work somewhat decently in an offroad truck for bashing, because of the lack of traction (for where I run at least, loose dirt/sand here in Florida) and a decent amount of airflow. :confused:

[Rtsbasic]

For bashing any controller will work as long as you keep it cool. But for racing it wouldn't work. Its like saying a 1L engine in a truck would work fine as long as you don't want to do much with it.

[Jev]

So a plane ESC could theoretically work somewhat decently in an offroad truck for bashing, because of the lack of traction (for where I run at least, loose dirt/sand here in Florida) and a decent amount of airflow. :confused:

Well to be more specific. The peak amp draw is relative to many things including gear ratio, traction, total weight, drive train resistance, incline.

If you drove an offroad truck into really long grass it could overload the motor or esc for example. You just have to use common sense.

I think the esc like the uforce 75 can handle onroad racing as long as you don't go anywhere near the cell limit they advise. So just stay well inside what they recommend for plane usage.

[Rtsbasic]

The U-Force 75 IS a car ESC, not a plane esc, so you can use/abuse it any way you want (within its limits obviously).

[Jev]

The U-Force 75 IS a car ESC, not a plane esc, so you can use/abuse it any way you want (within its limits obviously).

True, I should have used another example lol.

check out the one at the bottom left:

http://www.schulze-elektronik-gmbh.de/futu-e.htm

lol, I don't think you would over heat that on 7.2v nimh in a hurry :D

Can I just say that using dip switches for setting up esc is very amaturish IMO. Brushed esc moved on from that type of thing years ago.

[ElectricThunder]

Well to be more specific. The peak amp draw is relative to many things including gear ratio, traction, total weight, drive train resistance, incline.

If you drove an offroad truck into really long grass it could overload the motor or esc for example. You just have to use common sense.

I think the esc like the uforce 75 can handle onroad racing as long as you don't go anywhere near the cell limit they advise. So just stay well inside what they recommend for plane usage.
Obviously yeah, limits are well....limits. So for just bashing (can't race, no local tracks and too lazy to find any....:D) I could probably just pick up one of these 60 or 80 amp cont. speedos and use a lower amp draw motor and higher cell counts.... O the possibilities!:D