Thread lock blues

[joeling]

Hi,

In a moment of enthusiasm, I have managed to put too much loctite on the grub screw on the pinion of my BL motor. Now, the loctite has seeped into the space between the pinion & the motor shaft & stuck the pinion onto the motor shaft bad. How do I remove the loctite so that I can remove the pinion again ?

Thanks.

Regards,
Joe Ling

[elcid4300]

Hi,

In a moment of enthusiasm, I have managed to put too much loctite on the grub screw on the pinion of my BL motor. Now, the loctite has seeped into the space between the pinion & the motor shaft & stuck the pinion onto the motor shaft bad. How do I remove the loctite so that I can remove the pinion again ?

Thanks.

Regards,
Joe Ling


If it were me, I would first try heating the pinion with a lighter to see if the Loctite would break free. If that didn't work, I'd cover the motor and take a dremel to the pinion!

[TimisTim]

Is it really that bad? Are you using the red locktight? Ive heard that stuff is a beast. What type of motr is it?

On my feigao I would just pop the end of the can and push the comm through to slide the pinion off.

[tomato_dance]

If you can get the grub screw out just charge up your batts and take it out for a spin. I have a feeling that the pinion just might let go.

[kufman]

There are gear pullers made for this, but Bolink is the only company that I know of that made them for RC. They are gone now, but you might find one on E-bay.

[elcid4300]

I am pretty sure heating it will do it. As a mechanic, that's what I used to do with either a rusted/Loctited bolt when it wouldn't come out. I though about the pinion puller too, but had no idea where you might find one now. I think Trinity also does/did make one.

[standard_63]

GWS makes pinion pullers, or you can try heating the shaft thru the front with a soldering iron, and then the loctite should let go.

http://gwsparts.com/product_info.php?products_id=385

[joeling]

Hi,

Thanks for all of your input. I have tried to put the heatgun to the pinion but maybe the tempearture was not high enough (near 100 deg. C). I am trying to reassemble my truck (HPI savage, busted the rear 13T bevel) to do a run without the grub screw to see if that will do the trick. However, it is a major hassle as I have not received my spare bevel gear & will have to tear the thing down again.

Regards,
Joe Ling

[joeling]

Forgot to mention that I am using the blue loctite

Regards,
Joe Ling

[Duster_360]

FYI, in case you need to try one, Tower sells those GWS gear pullers -

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHHN3&P=ML

I think you'll be successful in getting it to let go while running it.

[Gojira]

There are gear pullers made for this, but Bolink is the only company that I know of that made them for RC. They are gone now, but you might find one on E-bay.
yea gws makes pinion pullers they have them at tower i looked at them the other day

[joeling]

Thanks guys. Finally managed to pull the pinion with the help of my trusty heat gun set to high temp (600 deg. C)

Regards,
Joe Ling

[tomato_dance]

Heat kills electronics, You just heated up your nice BL. This is why I suggested running it with out the grub screw. I have had this happen several times myself. :D While I was able to get the grub screw out maybe you could not have...

[joeling]

Dear tomoto_dance,

Agree totally that heat & electronics (or electrical for that matter) do not mix well. I have tested the motor after the pull & it seemed to be ok. The heat expereicned by the motor during the process was not too different from a hard run (shaft/pinion temp was less than 150 Deg. C).

On another note, I was curious what is inside of a BL motor & pulled then end cap out to investigate. Permanent magnet on the rotor & electro magnet on the can. Wow.

Regards,
Joe Ling

[elcid4300]

I also agree on the heat and electronics thing, you just have to be careful about it. It's like building a battery, you don't just let the iron sit and bake the cells...You do it quickly so the heat stays local. I think you would really need to heat the pinion up quite a bit to actually damage the motor, anyway, it was just a thought!

[pcnutz]

I always use red loctite on my shaft to keep my pinion on. I use a racers edge gear puller for 540 motors, its the same horseshoe type as the bolink, the gws posted in the link above is for micro motors, I have that unit too for my mamba system

[tomato_dance]

Dear tomoto_dance,

Agree totally that heat & electronics (or electrical for that matter) do not mix well. I have tested the motor after the pull & it seemed to be ok. The heat expereicned by the motor during the process was not too different from a hard run (shaft/pinion temp was less than 150 Deg. C).

On another note, I was curious what is inside of a BL motor & pulled then end cap out to investigate. Permanent magnet on the rotor & electro magnet on the can. Wow.

Regards,
Joe Ling

Hey Joe,

I saw 600 degrees and thought you where trying to have a Bar-B-Que! :)
Sorry for the persitance. I'm glad you got it taken care of.


TD

[Duster_360]

There are 2 diff GWS pullers, a micro puller for shafts less than 2mm in diameter and a standard size puller. The GWS standard puller is for shaft sizes from 2mm to 3.2mm.

Both links above are for the standard, not micro sized puller.