Any MGM16016 updates?

[standard_63]

How does it perform? Would you recommend it?

[TimisTim]

I would reccommend it. I got mine a couple of weeks ago and have only been able to run it for a few hours. It is a very powerfull controller.

I had a couple of problems with it. First I had a hell of a time getting it to program, but it must have been something I did in my trims because it works perfect now. My last problem is more of a concern. It has an open design that lets debris and moisture in. I am going to look into sealing it with some silicone caulking soon. On the plus side it has two heatsinks and removeable vertically mounted motor and batt wires. The heatsink on the bottom is the same radiator style as on the top and doesn't allow the use of double sided tape or velcro, so it has to be strapped down or zip tied.

Overall I gave it a B- in my review.

[standard_63]

Cool, I'm glad you got the programming worked out -- I remember your origional review and was just wondering if you had any more time to play around with it.

I don't understand why it's not sealed at all, maybe to aid in cooling? Since there are no moving parts, would it really matter if it gets dirty? I could see too much dirt making it get hot, but if it's blown off and cleaned between runs?

[tcolesen]

If the dirt is at all electrically conductive, it could cause a very minor short. Things like that can damaged these delicate controllers.

[TimisTim]

Exactly ^^^^^....

I have a small layer of dirt inside my 12012 and nothing has happened yet. I have made a resolution to take better care of my controllers so I wont be driving either off-road until I can get them sealed. I don't know why they didn't go the extra inch and put a layer of the silicone that is on the UF75's around the boards and sinks. I have driven my UF's IN water and nothing happened. Im talking mudding in the extreme. You'd think for $265 they would have (oh yeah and they don't include the gold connectors, you will need 3 for the motor wires and two for the batt. The 3.5mm type).

[TheSteve]

I've fixed dozens of ESCs, most of them damaged because of dirt/debris inside the case of the controller. Even The good'ol Novak cyclone gets loaded with stuff if run outdoors, eventually something in the dirt/debris will be conductive - and it doesn't have to be very conductive to turn a MOSFET on, its the nature of the device.
I've seen a Schulze 58co and a Hacker Master sport both blow because of dirt as well.
The Hacker Master series are the worst, they have insulating thermal pads between the layers of mosfets which are sticky! They get absolutely covered in crap. The plastic case offers very little protection because its not properly sealed.
At the very least the companies should be spraying the PCBs with conformal coating which insulates the MOSFET legs. I don't believe Hacker or Schulze does this, not sure about the other componies. The only one I know forsure does is Castle with the Mamba 25 ESCs.

[tcolesen]

Just recently I had a Schulze 18.97FW, and part of the deal with the guy that let me borrow it was that I would put a heatsink on it (to make it a KFW). This speed control had a coating on it, looked like it made the controller waterproof. It was some sort of clear, epoxy looking stuff.

[standard_63]

Would that work? Just seal it up with epoxy? What about some kind of thermal resistant paint?

[SpEEdyBL]

I had a duratax 8t intelli sport esc. It went up in smoke. And that was after a day at a dusty track. Turned out to be a small pebble, though I don't know how it could've gotten in there that easily. You could use epoxy. Mgm used this shoo-goo type stuff to seal my 12012. After resoldering the wires to upright position, I now cover the openings with electrical tape.

[Danielson]

I would reccommend it. I got mine a couple of weeks ago and have only been able to run it for a few hours. It is a very powerfull controller.

I had a couple of problems with it. First I had a hell of a time getting it to program, but it must have been something I did in my trims because it works perfect now. My last problem is more of a concern. It has an open design that lets debris and moisture in. I am going to look into sealing it with some silicone caulking soon. On the plus side it has two heatsinks and removeable vertically mounted motor and batt wires. The heatsink on the bottom is the same radiator style as on the top and doesn't allow the use of double sided tape or velcro, so it has to be strapped down or zip tied.

Overall I gave it a B- in my review.

Has the braking issue been solved or is it still applied when decelerating ? Can reverse be disabled?
Dan

[tcolesen]

It CAN be applied when decelerating, if you choose it to via the programming. Reverse disable is still only a desire.