Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[Marciano1969]

When I built my hyper pro all the parts need to build a spefic part where grouped in the same bag, The build was real easy and the kit went together nice,

[qurve]

thank you.

i have another question: i will be running HITEC servos, and i notice the kit does not come with servo horns that fit hitec.. where could i find servo horns that would be appropriate and fit how they should in the hyper7 using hitec servos? thx..

[LouisB]

I use the hitecs too, I'm using the red servo horn that came with the servo for throttle and a blue anodized alum one for the steering.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

same here the alloy one is the way to go for the steering much stronger.:)

[Crashbot2001]

I had the alum horn on my steering, but the aluminum quickly developed play. The teeth got sloppy. I put the thick red on on that came with the hitec servo and I have never had a problem with it in 2+ gals now.

[LouisB]

Crashbot2001, I've run mine for just over 3 gallons and there doesn't appear to be any slop in the horn, but I'll check it out. It should be difficult to snap even a plastic servo horn with a correctly set servo-saver.

Oh yeah, I qualified 2nd in the A on sunday and finished 4th due to a receiver pack failure while leading:( Oh well, it was only a practice before the championship starts.

[windellmc]

Louis - You might try Medial Pro Crystals for a grass track.

[LouisB]

Thanks, I think I found what will work. The RTR Hyper 7 tires ("=" tread) work very well as do Ellegi (sp?) Bulldogs (a bit loose), Medial Pro Turbo rats (some grip-roll)

I have the sandard kit and it didn't come with a front anti-roll bar so once I pick one up I'll be fine.

[RobG]

I have a OS V01B (P) engine and didn't break it in yet.

What are the needle settings for high and low speed? I read the top should be 3 turns out, the low?

[LouisB]

Originally posted by RobG
I have a OS V01B (P) engine and didn't break it in yet.

What are the needle settings for high and low speed? I read the top should be 3 turns out, the low?

On page 19 of the instructions (http://www.osengines.com/manuals/21rz-v01b-v01b-p-manual.pdf) it says the low speed should be one turn in from flush with the carb body. 3 turns out sounds about right for the high end.

I took a little (10 seconds) jump video, here (http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/jump.WMV)
It's set-up for good handling on the track rather than jumping;)

[Remote]

Just received my Hyper 7 PBS and ordered some parts from a Hyper 7/ PRO and thought I would share some Information. Parts that will **NOT** work on the PBS from a Hyper 7/ PRO. The front shock tower, rear bottom arm ball mounts, upper front torque plate, front torque brace. I was a little diapointed when I found this out. I wanted to add a little color to the PBS. I ordered every purple option parts aval. only to find out they dont work (some of them). Thinking about sending the buggy back and getting the PRO 7. I will say this, the Hyper 7 PBS is a well built buggy. How it performs is another story, havent desided if Im going to keep it. Its a shame that not all the PRO 7 parts will fit. :( A Hyper 7 PRO with the PBS would be REALLY nice:D

[haittmax]

Hi every1, I'm getting the Offna Picco .26 outlaw engine for my hyper7. Heres my questin.......... right now I have the hyper21 engine wich is an sg shaft. The Outlaw has the sg/Threaded shaft. What's the difference in the two? and will my flywheel, cluch and clutch nut all fit on this new engine? thanx alot guys
Love, Mike :D :D

[segrito863]

Hi, I am looking to get a Hyper 7 Pro with the new .26 Ofna/Picco engine. I have had the Ofna/Picco .21 Comp w/boost bottle and it was a very good engine.

I am getting the .26 cause it should have a lot of power, has a pullstart, DONT WANNA SPEND MONEY ON A STARTER BOX till later on after it has been running for a while.

What all would you guys recommend to get this thing running?

Matt

[segrito863]

Hey, I plan to buy my bext buggy slowly. I am gonna buy the kit, the engine, and the radio all serperatly till I get it all bought.

I was wondering if anyone has used this motor in there Hyper 7 Pro? I dont wanna spend more than I have to and I don't wanna get a starter box. I was thinkin the .26 will have better power than the other ofna engines with pullstarts.

What hopups come in the pro rather than the RTR kit?

Will I need to buy a tuned pipe for the pro kit? What about a header?

I am either gonna get a Airtronics MX3 radio or a Lynx 3d radio. I will also get a RX pack.

What oils and greases should I get?

What parts break the most and is it a durable car?

My choice before this was the 9.5 MBX RTR, but I changed my mind. Which one of these cars would have a better setup?

Let me know what you guys think. I'm not going for anything to pricey right now.



Matt

[p.n.e]

i'll see if i can help..

What hopups come in the pro rather than the RTR kit?
carbon fiber parts, cnc chassis braces, a center torsen diff, cva's, aluminum wing supports and radio tray mounts, some nice hex wrenches too.

Will I need to buy a tuned pipe for the pro kit? What about a header?
you dont need a pipe. mines came with a header too.

I am either gonna get a Airtronics MX3 radio or a Lynx 3d radio. I will also get a RX pack.
good choice, i would get the airtronics and a 1000mah pack

What oils and greases should I get?
lithuim grease for general lubing, some wd 40, different weights of silicon diff. oil (1000, 3000 etc) and torsen grease. bearing oil might be good to buy too.

What parts break the most and is it a durable car?
it is a very durable car, i have had nothing break yet cept a bent shock tower from a bad bad crash. be sure to get loctite tho!! you must loctite every metal to metal screw or you will be looking for parts that fell off during your run!

[kreidel1]

What kind of setups are some of you guys running? Also....has anyone raced with there PBS Hyper yet?

[LouisB]

I run:

Front

Stock shock mounting positions
40wt oil
both holes in pistons drilled with either a #54 or 1.4mm bit
Kyosho blue springs or stock black springs
No droop screws
22* caster blocks
1* toe out
-2* camber
silver anti-roll bar

Rear

Stock shock mounting positions
35wt oil
both holes in pistons drilled with either a #54 or 1.4mm bit
Kyosho blue springs or stock black springs
No droop screws
-2* camber
black anti-roll bar

With the front block carrier on the rear, check back a couple of pages and you'll see what i mean;) Look for pages from the manual in the posts.

[LouisB]

Have a look about 1/2 way down page 50

[LouisB]

I bought a KO 2173 servo for either my H7 or B3 and decided that the extra run time and speed (compared to my Hitec 5945) would be better suited to my Hyper so in it went:D I've now got a pair of KOs on it (712 for throttle) and it works great. IMO KO makes the best servos, but the 5945 will be great in my electric buggy:)

I'm not totally decided on whether I should keep it like that. I've got 2 1100mAh battery packs so a quick swap before the main shouldn't be a problem.

Which one should I use for steering my H7?

[fantom16]

Sorry to change the subject and everything.

I want to build a Hyper 7 from scratch, as in buy each part seperate, and put it together. I want to do this as i cant afford to buy it assembled straight away, and i thought it would be a good project.

So is this going to be difficult? I have knowledge about nitro cars, engines etc and some about buggies. Is it possible to do this.

My hobby shop is very good, and i know them well, so i can get all the parts what i need.

Also does anyone know where i can get an instruction manual of how to put it together, and where?

Cheers for all the help you can give, its all appreciated
--Leigh

[prevelige]

you could probably get the instruction manual from the website www.ofna.com

However, you should expect to pay 2x-3x more for the buggy in parts. That's why people buy whole kits and sell the parts on ebay. They make a nice profit, and still undersell parts directly from ofna.

hope this helps

Bob

[fantom16]

i thought it would cost more, but not that much more. i shall have to do some calculations to see just how much more, and wether it is worth it in the long run.

Cheers anyway:D

[HyperActive]

This site has the walk threw on the Hyper 7
http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm

[coyote660]

hey fantom...you'll go broke buying piece by piece...go for a kit...

[LouisB]

Originally posted by coyote660
hey fantom...you'll go broke buying piece by piece...go for a kit...

Agreed

[Sunmatt]

Hello Guys,

I want to know what spare parts I need for my Hyper 7 Pro???

I'm planning to buy front top and lower arms and for the rear also

I'm asking you that because, it's hard to get Ofna Parts in Montreal, Canada and I want to place just one order

Please help me!

[LouisB]

Front cast steering knuckles are easy to strip (even though I've never managed to)

If you do serious jumping then maybe pick up some shock shafts, front + rear, they're cheap.

And front castor blocks.

A spare wing, again, if you like jumping;)

Those are the only parts I've ever seen break on a Hyper.

[OldskoolGT]

Sunmatt,

To add to what LouisB said:

differential gears (the cast aluminum ones)

rear hub carriers (AKA uprights)

ball bearings

clutch bell

wheel nuts

[LouisB]

Oh yeah, add bumpers to that list.

Despite the following video my Hyper survived with no damage, even when I didn't make the landings;)

Jump (http://grccc.20megsfree.com/videos/backflip.WMV)

I quailfied 3rd today, I had a time good enough for pole but the transponder system was malfunctioning and miscounted my time:( Even though you could see clearly where the missed laps were. Anyway, the final didn't go to plan, I stalled but managed to recover and get 3rd, I'm happy.

[LouisB]

OK, dead link, you can try here (http://www.grccc.20megsfree.com/carvideos.htm)

[Sunmatt]

Thank you guys:-)

I really appreciate!

[Big-Pete]

Hi Guys, I'm a newbie here, but I've had my Hyper 7 for a good few months now. Been racing it in our winter series which I came 3rd overall :D :D .
Been reading thro the previous posts:eek: thats some info thats there!! forgive me if this has already been asked
I have just changed it to pivot ball suspension and have to say its a big improvement over the standard C hub (imho)
Got a question about holes in the pistons, I got a size chart to convert numbers into metric sizes, question is are you guys just drilling the existing holes or adding some as well?:confused:
If anyone could give me a point in the right direction for hole sizes and oil weights it would be greatly recieved.
Thanks,
Pete.

[fantom16]

Instead of building it bit by bit, i have managed to gather some money together to buy a kit. I have the Hyper 7 Pro, with the new 8 port engine. I have to collect it tomorrow morning, so no doubt ill be asking a few more questions soon. Cheers

[LouisB]

Originally posted by Big-Pete
Hi Guys, I'm a newbie here, but I've had my Hyper 7 for a good few months now. Been racing it in our winter series which I came 3rd overall :D :D .
Been reading thro the previous posts:eek: thats some info thats there!! forgive me if this has already been asked
I have just changed it to pivot ball suspension and have to say its a big improvement over the standard C hub (imho)
Got a question about holes in the pistons, I got a size chart to convert numbers into metric sizes, question is are you guys just drilling the existing holes or adding some as well?:confused:
If anyone could give me a point in the right direction for hole sizes and oil weights it would be greatly recieved.
Thanks,
Pete.

Hi Pete, are you racing on dirt or grass? For dirt then drill both holes out to 1.4mm and use 35wt in the rear and 40wt in the front. For grass then it's normally better with the same hole sizes but 20-25 in the rear and 25-30 in the front.

[Big-Pete]

Originally posted by LouisB
Hi Pete, are you racing on dirt or grass? For dirt then drill both holes out to 1.4mm and use 35wt in the rear and 40wt in the front. For grass then it's normally better with the same hole sizes but 20-25 in the rear and 25-30 in the front.

Thanks LouisB, Not sure yet, I'll be going to the Mold club which I think is grass?
The figures you gave me will give will give me a good start:D
Cheers,
Pete

[Casey]

The latest upgrade for my Hyper 7 is an Ofna #OFN10057 "063 One-Piece Tuned Pipe" to go on the stock Hyper 21. Nice looking pipe, but it doesn't fit right. It pushes up against the fuel tank and won't allow the pipe to be straight. The pipe ends up being pushed to the left at the connection between pipe & header as well as the header being pushed to the left where the header mounts to the engine. With this happening there are leaks and I can't prime the engine, much less get it to start and run. I don't think it's possible to move the fuel tank over towards center.

Anyone else have a similar problem with an aftermarket pipe/header combo?

[Casey]

Got it fixed. Nevermind.

[fezzy]

Hi guys, I am going to be getting a H7 soon and someone in the UK where I live have just offered me a PRO w/8-Port Hyper. In the US do the H7's come with centre torsens and a standard diff or front torsen and standard diff, Or just a torsen or standard.

This one I have been offered apparently comes with a front torsen which as far as I knew meant it was a European spec car but I've heard off someone that knows the guy said he got it from the US.

Final Question, Is a Front Torsen really worth it?.

Cheers!

[LouisB]

Most of the Hypers at my club like to run with front and centre torsens, I ude standard diffs.

[fezzy]

Are Torsen diffs really THAT much of a hassle to maintain?

[hpimonster]

Hi guys I am new to buggys and I am interested in getting a Hyper 7 I am almost positive I am going to get the RTR version since this all I have the money for. Is there any downs to the car besides the RTR radio reciever and servos?? There is no real offroad tracks where I live so its primary use will be bashing there are plenty of vacant lots to tear up it will also be jumped but not to violently; so is this an adequate choice and does anyone know approximately how fast the hyper 7 goes??
thanx

[fezzy]

Like you say, The only thing thats lacking on the RTR is the steering servo, Something like a HS645MG from Hitec would really give you alot better turn in/out of corners due to the larger torque and holding power. The only other things I'd think about changing are the shock oil/piston combination as out of the box its abit firm, But its a matter of taste, You may also want to use diff oil instead of the standard grease. Other than those things its a great buggy.

Top speed is anywhere from 35-40 with the 4-Port Hyper21, My mate runs Byrons 25% through his and its very fast, Even with the standard pipe.

[hpimonster]

sounds good I was having trouble deciding between the hyper 7 and the 9.5mbx RTR but it looks like I will be getting the Hyper 7 35-40 sounds pretty fast I can imagine with a cvec it will bust out around 50?? I was thinking for steering and throttle I would get of those cirrus high torques, will definitley replace the diff grease with diff oil. Are the shocks threaded or not??
thanx

[LouisB]

The shocks are not threaded.


Are Torsen diffs really THAT much of a hassle to maintain?

Nobody round here has any complaints about maintaining the torsens.

[fezzy]

Thanks Louis, They basically send more power to the wheel with most traction don't they to get better on-power steering?. Thats a simplified conclusion I have come to after reading stuff about them.

HPIMonster: There is no way you will gain 10mph with a different pipe, The one that is already on the H7 RTR is actually very good, Its very durable and produces pretty good power, Although it tends to make more mid/high end RPM than power. I'd also stay away from the CVEC Pipes, They may look and sound cool but they are high maintainence and don't actually offer that good a performance boost, Infact I'd be willing to bet your RTR with standard pipe would be better!. The most you can hope for over the standard pipe is a smoother power curve and more low end, The RB 086P gave me this over the standard pipe but with the trade off of higher fuel consumption. If you want to look at a upgrade pipe look at the offerings from RB Concepts, Picco, Rossi, Novarossi and OFNA (OFNA Pipes are very good, Basically copy of the RB Concepts Pipes but made from a thicker material and half the price!). My next pipe will probably be the OFNA 063 Two-Piece.

[LouisB]

The centre torsen should give better acceleration (more power to rear wheels) but i've read that using a front torsen with it is not good for long sweeping tracks like we have in the UK.

I agree, stay away form CVECs, but if you want a new pipe then a RB/Novarossi 063 (or copy) would be a good choice.

[hpimonster]

When i get the hyper 7 or 9.5mbx I'll look into OFNA pipes. Do any of you own the H7 and the 9.5mbx I wanted to know if there was a huge difference between the two of them besides the 9.5mbx's pillow ball.
thanx

[BigBadTahoe]

I'd like to know that too. They have so many buggy choices and I can't really tell which one is better for the money except that one has a .25 motor and the othe is a .21? I want something that can do good in racing and can take those big backyard jumps!:D

[hpimonster]

I would also like a buggy like this I've looked at other buggies and it seems ofna is the best for someone with a budget and wants an excellent buggy.

[fezzy]

The Hyper7 is a better buggy over the 9.5 MBX, But the 9.5 MBX is a nicer all round package, That much can be said.

[fezzy]

As a follow up question to the Torsen again, What exactly do you use to lubricate it? Can you use diff oil?. I am looking to rebuild the diffs with diff oil, Basic setup I've heard to use is 7000wt centre, 3000wt front and 1000wt rear. Will this still apply with the torsen or do I have to use something else??.

Cheers.

[LouisB]

You have to use special Torsen diff oil.

[BigBadTahoe]

I am not real serious about racing yet with a buggy so the mbx pro will be a good choice for me.

[fezzy]

This 2nd hand H7 PRO I am getting comes with a centre torsen and the F/R Diffs are just of the standard bevel kind. What improvements will I get over running a standard bevel with the torsen in the centre??. Should I also keep to the recommended diff oil settings for F/R (3,000wt front and 1,000wt rear) even while using the torsen centre diff?.

Thanks Again.

[LouisB]

yep, I normally run 5K in the front an 1K in the rear. Keep it around the same with a torsen or standard centre diff.

[fezzy]

My Pro should be here tomorrow so I have but one final question (For now at least). I have had good experience with the standard Hobao pipe and I like it alot, It definetely produces more mid/high end RPM than low end power but its a very good 'all round' pipe, It sounds pretty good (although abit whiney) but best of all its very very durable. How does the 'Racing' Pipe that comes with the PRO Compare to that?? Asthetically it doesn't look much different but the most visable difference is the lip on the end where it goes into the coupler, But what about performance wise??. I'l proably replace it eventually anyway but I want to hang onto it for a while!. Oh, I also know that its alot quieter cause I have seen a PRO run with it, Just didn't have anything to compare it to performance wise.

Thanks Again.

[LouisB]

Most of the peeps with Pros over here change their pipes when htey build the kit but from what I've seen it performs much the same as the grey pipe. But with the lip it shouldn't fall off, which can happen quite easily with the grey version (but never to me).

One guy has tried 3 different pipes (Novarossi/RB etc) with his Novarossi engine and prefers the stock pipe, so that's what he runs. I might try and buy a rejected pipe off him;)

[fezzy]

Thanks again LouisB. I've heard of and seen alot of the standard Hobao pipes falling out of the coupler but even with mine polished right up its never come off once!.

[LouisB]

I used a big a$$ed screwdriver to make a flange and I use some seriously heavy duty coupler tube, it won't fall off, ever;)

I expect it'll fall off next race:p

Check out this place (http://www.topoptions.com/) for tyres and stuff. Good deals. My order for 3 sets or tyres and some other parts has just been sent off.

[losixtreme1]

Hey what is a good engine that i could race at club level. I dont want anything to expensive. I was thinking maybe the RB S7 or ofna/picco 01. Let me know Thanks

[ezequiel]

I was about to start off a great come from behind
win, ;) , when starting e-main, my center diff gave way :( I know I can just buy some steel
bevel gears to replace it, but found a "could not pass up" deal on a spider gear center diff. Anyone with experience with this spider gear? are they any good? Thanks.

[ezequiel]

Originally posted by losixtreme1
Hey what is a good engine that i could race at club level. I dont want anything to expensive. I was thinking maybe the RB S7 or ofna/picco 01. Let me know Thanks

losixtreme, you may want to add the hyper 8 port in your list, or the picco .25, they are quite cheap now, and still competitive in my lhs track.

[fantom16]

Hi, im getting my Hyper 7 Pro this friday. So is there any building tips you have for me, or any things to watch out for? This will be my second one that i have built, so im not a complete novice. Any help is appreciated.

Cheers, Leigh

[LouisB]

Not really, it just takes a bit longer to build than a 1/10th scale. Make sure you use threadlock;) and don't rush it.

[ezequiel]

fantom16, i found out on the twf8.com site some
tips on building the h7, click on the hobao h7 review, the guy there made a step by step review on building the buggy. enjoy building that one!

[losixtreme1]

I dont want the .25 cuz they dont like u having an engine higher than .21. also about the new 8 port hyper, i might look into it but i was thingking of somthing a little more powerful and without a pull start.cuz the ppl at my track have good engines and are great drivers. thanks anyway though, anybody else have an opionion.

[LouisB]

The Hyper 8 port race version

[fantom16]

What site it that ezequiel? Does twf8 stand for anything because twf8.com doesnt work. Sorry

[ezequiel]

oops! sorry, its www.twf8.ws

[fezzy]

My mate just got a Novarossi P5 for his Hyper7, GOD DAMN that thing flies, I drove it for a few minutes and its just the most responsive motor I have ever been behind, The whole powerband was PERFECT and the acceleration was incredible. Its also not that bad a priced!. If your on a budget the 8Port can't be beat, Its almost as fast as the P5, Just not quite as responsive and it lacks on the low end in comparison.

[LouisB]

Yep, I've noticed that as well. I've changed to heavier clutch springs to try and get a bit more punch but haven't tested it yet.

[fezzy]

I've put a 12t bell on mine in the hope of gaining a little more acceleration. The 4-Port Hyper definetely has more, With that I had to use a 14t bell, Its all just a case of matching the engines powerband to the gearing of the car.

[fezzy]

Guys, I am in need of some help. I just rebuilt my centre diff just as the manual said and when I turn the diff outdrive on the spur side(4865.60) it turns smoothly but on the opposite side its quite notchy and hard to turn, I did the diff exactly like it said in the manual. I just removed the shim(4895.61) it told me to insert under the drive pin/sungear opposite to the spur and now both outdrives feel really bad. Should I just put the shim back and let it wear in or is there any possible solutions or known problems.

Cheers.

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/hobao/hyper7/hyper7build/picsstep2/h7-step2-001.jpg

[LouisB]

Is the grub screw too deep into the case?

It's normal to be a bit notchy at first but it soon wears in, as long as you can turn it (it's tricky to describe how much resistance there should be) there should be no problem.

[fezzy]

First thing I checked was the grub screw, That was OK. I am re-doing it now with the shim in, put new oil in and see then. It can be turned over but it takes abit of force with your hand.

[fezzy]

Just noticed that one of the shims (4895.123) is the wrong inside diameter, I don't think it really matters a great deal though.

[LouisB]

How's it goin' fezzy? sorted yet?

I've been testing with the new clutch springs and wow! Brutal acceleration:D I haven't timed it yet but it feels faster.

Racing tomorrow, at my house (http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/rallyxtrack1.jpg), and another (http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/rallyxtrack2.jpg)

It may be a bit small but it's great fun.

[fezzy]

You have your own track in your garden?! :eek:, I am very jealous :p.

Its very kind of you to ask how I am going on with the PRO, I ran it in last Wednesday, Everything went pretty smoothly but I had to lean the engine like 3 1/2 turns to get the temps up, Looks like I got one of the batch of 8Ports with the short taper HSN, Mines now at about 1/2-3/4 from closed, About 8-10 tanks through so far of Byrons 16% Race (Excellent Fuel!!) and using a Novarossi C6-S Plug, Temps are 200-210, Slightly rich still. I did have one problem however, I noticed the tank was leaking during break in at the front half on the lid, I put it in some water when I got home and sure enough it was quite a big leak, My mate sold me a new in packaging tank for use today and it worked fine, When your tank isn't leaking it means MUCH less mess..... Especially on my track where its abit sandy :(.

I am having a great deal of problem setting up the brake linkages, Especially the rear.... I can't seem to set it up right without it binding with the cam and locking up the brakes when I acellerate, Also when I let off the cam snags the brake linkage and locks my brakes on. I have fiddled with it for a long time and even my mate tryed everything he knew and it got worse, Not better. Any tips?!.

I had to rebuild my diff again today, I thought it'd 'wear in' like you said but it didn't, The outdrive was still incredibly stiff in the spur gear... This time I fully rebuilt it and used some moly grease on the outdrive shaft itself and worked the outdrive round, Its now incredibly smooth and I doubt I will have any more problems with the centre diff.

LouisB, Do you have MSN Messenger??? You should add me if you do, ashtuk@hotmail.com. I am usually on all the time but right know I am going to bed.... I have plans for spectating at Preston Rally-X tomorrow and need to get there early to make sure not to miss any of the action, Should be racing there shortly, When I get my buggy dialed in more and am confident enough with its handling.

[gcoolt]

Hey guys I have a question for you I just brought a hyper 7 from ebay because they don't sell them at my LHS and the guys at my LHS said that OFNA cars break too easily. What do you guys think about that?

[fezzy]

The Hyper7 is incredibly tough, By no means is it weak!!. Only things that tend to break are the rear shocktowers (they usually bend on very hard landings) and also front knuckles are prone to breakage, It takes a hell of a beating to break a Hyper7 though.

Happy B'Day LouisB!

[LouisB]

Thanks fezzy;)

Great racing today. It was pissing down all morning and looked like it would be cancelled. But, just before the race/not race vote the sun came out:) It's been lovely and warm all afternoon.

In the first heat I was fastest, in the second my engine worked loose and my spur ate my clutch bell, but i borrowed another. Just before the start of the 3rd heat my glow plug failed so I made a quick swap to some random plug. It threw my tuning off totally so I had to pull in and retune it, losing loads of time.

My 1st round time was good enough for 2nd in the A, I'll spare you the saga of the final. But, after a stall I finished 2nd
:D

I run my engine at around 1-3/4 too, and I run Byron 16, the best fuel.

I use a T-Maxx fuel tank seal (rubber ring), stops all leaks

I'll take a pic of how i've got my linkages set up.

No MSN as yet, but I'll se what I can do

gcoolt, H7s are tough, very tough

[gcoolt]

Hey guys could you tell me what wieght shock oil and springs that you use.

[LouisB]

The Hyper black springs are pretty good, but I run Kyosho blues. They're slightly stiffer and won't rust.

40wt front and 35 rear works well. It's even better if you drill the 2 piston holes out to 1.4mm (I think bit #55/56, not sure)

[fezzy]

I use the PRO Purple Frim Springs F/R with both holes in the shock pistons enlarged to 1.5mm, Using 30wt shock oil rear and 35wt shock oil in the front, Its soft... But not too soft, Much more useable over the stock setup because thats far too stiff.

[gcoolt]

Ok I put the black springs and 40wt frn and 35 wt back. On the diffs I got 3k frnt 7k cent and 1k rear. I'll let you know how that works. What do you think of the carbon fiber shock towers are they good should I invest in them. I have the rtr kit with most of the pro stuff except the torque bars and shock tower.

[fezzy]

The Graphite towers look very nice, But they're not the thing to buy if your looking for better than the RTR ones, They are abit 'weak'. What you should get is the 7075 CNC Shock Towers F/R, They're only a little more expensive than the Graphite noes and are supposed to be indestructable.

[Crashbot2001]

Fezzy, take the springs out of a couple of ink pens and install hem on your brake linkages between the servo and the cam lever. This should help your problems there.

Another thing you might get if you want is the spring kit for the 9.5. It goes between the brake plates and keeps the plates from dragging on the disks when the brakes are released. 8 spring for five bucks. Pretty good deal. Some folks have used pen springs here too, and just cut them, but I couldn;t get them to work properly, so I spent the money and got the ones for the 9.5. The part number is 40044 Brake Pad Spring.

If you're looking to upgrade the shock towers, you can't beat the PCR stuff. A bit pricey, but very tough.

nitrohouse has the towers and the brake pad springs. The springs on the linkage will probably solve your problems though.

[fezzy]

Crashbot, Thanks for the info!. I gave the linkage abit of fuel tubing in the area you mentioned and it did the trick.

[windellmc]

You may have to drill out the eyes on the brake levers that the brake linkage goes through. Mine were too small so it was always binding up. BTW, the Purple springs are softer than the Blacks despite what Ofna seems to imply.

[gcoolt]

What do you guys think about a metal gear throttle servo? I was told by a guy at my LHS that they tend to blow up.:eek:

[LouisB]

That's not normally a problem. I always run plastic geared throttle servos and they've worked perfectly. But definitely get a metal geared steering servo. It could happen if you don't have or incorrectly set the throttle end points on the radio and overstress the servo. I've seen this happen when people use budget radios.

[Pacoson]

Sorry if this question had been asked here but i tried to do a small search- to no avail.
Could you who seem to know much about the H7s tell me if the new PBS H7 is better to buy or just the H7rtr?

Any and every imput is thanked

others cars owned:
Reflex NT
T3
2.5 T-Maxx
mirage

thanx jon

[LouisB]

The PBS engine is better, but as far as handling goes there's nothing in it. The standard RTR would be easier to set up but the PBS is more adjustable.

[LouisB]

I've got a RB WS7 II and 063 pipe on the way :)
I've just got to get another set of engine mounts, flywheel, clutch + bell to be able to make a quick swap if something goes wrong. There goes my B'day money

[Toiffel]

I'm interested in getting a buggy, I ahve two options in mind, 1st. Hyper 7 Pro 2nd Mugen MBX 4RR. Since I'm new to 1/8 scale I don't knnow what to do?? Are there important differences or the same thing, can anyone help, please!!

[LouisB]

Both are good buggies but I would go for the H7, and not just because I have one.

A guy I race with has a Hyper 7 Pro and a MBX 4RR. He is one of the best drivers over here and has the same novarossi engine in both cars and uses both cars during the heats. He is always faster with the Hyper 7 and has only ever used the Hyper in the finals. The Mugan can be quick but the diff gears seem more fragile than the Hyper's and they can be more difficult to set-up.

Another guy as a Hyper 7 with a Sirio and a Mugen MBX4 XR and the Hyper gets him quicker laps too.

[Pacoson]

Now I feel slightly silly since I don't even own the PBS yet but I could not pass up the items on E-Bay.
I got a front and rear diff with casing new with a carbon H7pro rear shock tower and a spare radio tray with servos and linkages all for 55$+ shipping.

Now to order the buggy itself.:D

Jon

[fezzy]

Nice one LouisB, I am very jealous now :D

[LouisB]

Originally posted by fezzy
Nice one LouisB, I am very jealous now :D

You should be ;)

[Pacoson]

I'm getting conflicting stories Re the parts for the PBS and H7
OFNA stated the PBS is a suspension change, that the only difference is the arms to the tires. Same frame diffs shock towers fueltank etc...

Does andbody who ownes a PBS what do you say?

2nd NIB one just got away from me on E-Bay
439$ + 10S&H and the 2nd 439+19.95 S&H
buy it nows.

But the next ones MINE.

[gcoolt]

Thats the story i'm hearing also thats why the name Pivot Ball Suspension (PBS). Or you can upgrade your old hyper 7 to the new setup for about $65. But its not worth it.
Tim

[LouisB]

Well I got the WS7 II, very nice, very nice indeed:D :D :D

I put the 63 pipe on but I haven't got new clutch/flywheel stuff yet so the engine is going to have to wait.
The LHS owner is one of my 2 main competitors in the championship so he'll want to with-hold the parts for as long as possible to gain the greatest advantage. It’s raining really hard and I have exams to revise for so I may not be able to give my opinions on the engine for a little while.

[Pacoson]

HELP, now somebody PMed me in a different forum and said that the carbs on the PBS batch of motors were no good?

Should I get the regular H7?
Or bite the bullet and get the PBS


PBS owners please jump in any time here
And H7 owners what have you seen read?

Thanx
confused!

[LouisB]

I have a Hyper 8 Port sport (purple head, pull-start) and the carb is the same on the PBS 8 port engine. It's worked fine for me, easy to tune and it holds it's tune well too.

[soslo]

There are reports that some c-hub parts will not fit the pbs. Rob (Ofna webmaster) may get the individual model listings out one of these days, so we will know what fits what.
Then there is always http://www.nitrohouse.com/ They are the Ofna parts experts, and can tell you what will fit what, before you waste your money on something that won't fit.
The pbs pro kit is out in Japan, so I would rather wait for it, than to do a halfa$$ job with the upgrade kit.
Until then, stick with the Pro. It comes with most of the upgrades you would want, plus you can choose your own support equipment. It may be a little more $$, but well worth it in my book.

[Pacoson]

Soslo Why is the pro that much better?
A few carbon fiber parts and purple alum?

Is there more to it?

Most places have the rtr and the pro for the same $
TX, RX servoX2 and motor costs abit.

please let me know before I drop 450$

P.S I do own a JR X3 and a Futaba T3PDF, should I just get another RX to go with either of these remotes? If so what RX do any of you suggest?

Thanx Jon

[LouisB]

I would get another receiver and use a good radio. I've always had good luck with novak XXl receivers.

[Pacoson]

XXL for a JR 54$ at tower plus a Crystal mabe 12$ I guess
So where @
459 PRO
65$ RX
I have a good few extra servos (HS645s)
What motor? Not the sickest thing out here either. I don't race cuz there are no tracks for the buggies.

I bought an 800 Reflex with Mugen MT12 and all the fixins and never race with it. But its nice having the best.lol

[soslo]

hehe!! You answered your own question Pacoson! It is nice having the best.
If you get the Pro, then you can get the things that you want to, instead of being stuck with things you can't use.
The pbs starter box isn't the strongest thing out, and the radio is soso. You can also select your own engine with the Pro kit, but for the price, I hear the 8 port is awsome. That would be another $170 or so to add to the price of the Pro kit. We run the P5, which is around $230.
The pbs is a good kit, and if you are just bashing, it will work fine.
If you need another receiver, get another JR, Futaba, or even the Novak. They are all good.

It's just a matter of what you are wanting to do with the buggy.
For bashing, the pbs is fine.
For racing, I would definately get the Pro.

[Pacoson]

who makes the p5?

And yeah I think this will be the road to take.

[Pacoson]

At least the front and rear diff with the servo tray and shock towers I allready bought won't go to waste.



Thanx

Jon

[soslo]

The P5 is a NovaRossi motor.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/nova_rossi.htm
The long stroke has plenty of bottom end.

The Hyper .21 8 port w/pull start is 139.00 and the 8 port race (beefier crank and bearings) is $189.00
NitoHouse was giving 15% off the listed prices also. Don't know if they still are though.

[mtracer]

I have a Hyper7 pro with a Nova Rossi P-5 and a Airtronics M8 with the Novak Synthesized FM Module and receiver so you can dial in your channels, no more crystals....
Also a new starter box with a new gel-cell battery...
I also have a super brain 959 AC/DC Charger.

The Engine is brand new it has about 12 tanks through it 8 of them were for the break in. The buggy is in new condition as well, it is all adult owned.

For more info contact me at wsimpso2@tampabay.rr.com

I have a ton of other stuff as well, ie.. Spare parts and new tires and rims, on road tires & rims etc......

[Pacoson]

can somebody let me know if the PRO comes with,
Air filter?
Flywheel collet and clutch?
Bell housing and spurgear?

I just won a NIB Hyper 21 race for 148$ delivered (E-Bay)

thanx
Jon

[LouisB]

yes, yes and yes (at least my kit did)

I've just been running with my new pipe, nicer sound, better looks and greater efficiency, what more could you ask for?

[Pacoson]

Thanx,

I've found the pro kit for 409 and am just waiting for a reply as to if itsIN stock. I'd like to go new and build it like my reflex.

I noticed in some pics that the pro has CF towers and radio tray but some have purple alum? is it just luck of the draw?

No one has a pro kit on ebay!!!!!!

[LouisB]

I think all Pros have a CF radio tray but not all have CF towers. It's something to do with different towers for the US and European markets but I can't remember exactly.

[hkgasmd]

hey guys, I'm looking for a good pro level buggy kit. What are the pros and cons about the 7 pro vs. 9.5 pro kits (I'm also looking at a GS storm pro kit). Which one would be better for racing. I'm not planning to bash much but run on groomed dirt tracks. Thanks for your help

[LouisB]

They're all good, but the Hyper 7 is the best. From my experience it is very easy to drive fast and is well behaved over bumps and jumps. At my club it's a Hyper 7 1,2,3 at the top of the championship. Hypers are very strong (as are all 1/8 buggies) and the Pro kit comes with everything you need, including an extra torsen diff.

[OldskoolGT]

hkgasmd,

Even the guys that work for OFNA will tell you the Hyper 7 is the buggy to get for racing. The 9.5 isn't bad, but most of OFNA's racing development goes into the H7.


Hey soslo,

Are you gonna come up to the DFW area for the 3 round of the Nitro Invitationals?

[soslo]

Not this go around OldskoolGT.
G/Mother is in the hospital, plus my driver had to have DSL, so I just forked out $300.00+ for that. It was his choice between the Invitational or DSL. I hear it is a nice track there. Wish we could make it, but best stick around here for now.
Guess ol' Fro is going to have to stay mad at us for missing this one too. O-well.. :p Just couldn't see any future in running 1/8 at K&M for the last one. A bunch of us went to Pearland and had a jolly ol' time instead.

They have the bugs worked out of the hyper, not doubt, plus it is lighter than the 9.5.
From what I heard, the new kits come with the new arms and the new universals. Don't think that has got through the advertising stage yet. I still see the ads with cva's. It seems to confuse people when they get the kit with universals.
Universals are definately the way to go anyway. Very dependable!

Give a shout if you make it to Houston Oldskool.. You are welcome to zonk out here.
You definately have to make it to the THRC Nitro Open in November. It should be bigger than last year. :)

[soslo]

Oh yaa.. Do you know a guy that goes by seppuku in the Ofna website forum? He is up there in your area. He has the wrong arms, universals, or something squirelly with his buggy. He can't keep the axles in. I think he was using the 19348 pbs universals, and should be using the 19347's on the rear with the new arms. I dunno what he is doing?? Give him a hand if you should run acroos him. He may have figured it out by now though.
Are the pbs universals shorter than the c-hub universals?

[Pacoson]

At LAST.................

I switched from the PBS to the pro H7 (after I bought 60$ in stuff for the PBS) all but the rear arms will bolt on the pro for back up though.

Found a H7pro on-line for 409$ delivered buy it now.2 left

Hows that for a great price.

so now I got a
JR X3
HS 645 steering
standard servo for throttle and brake.
Hyper 21 8port Race.

just need a great starter box, people say that my ofna RTR twin 550 box just wont cut it.

[fezzy]

You can get a H7 PRO for $399.95 from http://www.ultimatehobbies.com Its the cheapest price I've ever seen them for.

[mtracer]

Originally posted by hkgasmd
hey guys, I'm looking for a good pro level buggy kit. What are the pros and cons about the 7 pro vs. 9.5 pro kits (I'm also looking at a GS storm pro kit). Which one would be better for racing. I'm not planning to bash much but run on groomed dirt tracks. Thanks for your help

I'm getting ready to put my Hyper 7 pro up on e-bay,(sob! sob!!) It is loaded with a NovaRossi P5 and many many goodies...

Here is the link to go check it out!!

http://web.tampabay.rr.com/mtracer/new_page_1.htm

[p.n.e]

does anyone know the part number for the stuff that bolts to the rear lower a arm? i have the arms but need the two eylets and washers etc to mount the hinge pin.

[Pacoson]

If U don't have the manuals then goto www.ofna.com and check out the manuals section, it has explodid views with part #s

Good luck, hope this helps.

Jon

[LouisB]

New body

http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/hyperbodyon.jpg

[LouisB]

Lay-down servos, pretty trick

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/laydownservos1.jpg

[fezzy]

Love that shell Louis, I have a Pre-Painted Tribal Flame Shell from Hobao, Looks good and it was only £25!. That servo setup looks really good to, Is that going to go into production or is it a one off custom job?

[LouisB]

The shell took ages, my first go with an airbrush.

Not sure on the servo set-up, it's Paul C's custom design but from the looks of the graphite and machined pieces it could go into production. Nice low CG, but the throttle linkage looks a bit too complicated.

[p.n.e]

jeez is that 6 brakes i see??! holy crap! me like :D

[LouisB]

No, only 5
Mine stops fine with 2:p

[p.n.e]

as does mines, but gosh those pcr parts make me jealous..*sigh*

[LouisB]

yeah, if they weren't so expensive my car would look like that:cool:
It even has a graphite plate under the switch opening, I have a sticker (lighter:D )

[LouisB]

WOW, I've got the WS7 II running. It was much easier to start up than I expected. It got stuck at TDC a couple of times (had to use screwdriver), even with the plug out, but my AE box had no real trouble turning it over. 2 break in tanks so far, I'm going for the heat cycling method as it worked great with another engine (4 gallons or racing and still loads of compression)

It's rich as hell bust so smooth, it's going to be a beast on the track:D :D :D :D

[Crashbot2001]

According to one of Paul's teamates, It's 6 brakes. The third in the back is hidden by the throttle linkage. The disks are craddock brake discs, the plates are from the hyper 7, no pads are used with the craddock brakes.

[LouisB]

Originally posted by Crashbot2001
According to one of Paul's teamates, It's 6 brakes. The third in the back is hidden by the throttle linkage. The disks are craddock brake discs, the plates are from the hyper 7, no pads are used with the craddock brakes.

cool, I thought the plates looked thin.

I had to do some serious body trimming to get the WS7II head to fit.

[Crashbot2001]

That engine looks good. What pipe is that?

[LouisB]

RB 063, sounds nice and looks better. I chose the standard pipe (rater than in-line) because some people were having trouble getting them to fit and I like being able to tune an engine with header length.

[Pacoson]

Hey, I just got my New H.21 8P Race motor!
Nice to look at black with a shinny cooling head.

I just wish the Pro kit would come
Speedzone Raceway on E-Bay hasn't even shipped it yet!

I paypall'ed them on Sun and E-mailed them on Tues, they said they were 3 days behind cuz of the holiday.
now it's thursday @9:30 and they still haven't shipped!

I'm not liking their management skills or their shipping dept.

ticTicTIcTIC.

Jon

[LouisB]

It's a nice engine, just be paitient and think of something else for the moment;)

I ordered quite a lot of stuff from Stormer Hobbies 3 weeks before my bday (11th May) and they ran out of PMR batteries, and still nothing yet:(

[gcoolt]

I just brought one off of eBay also because this track I went to in Kansas City most of them were using it. I also brought a Nova Pro Head to cool it down.:)

[Pacoson]

this motor comes with a huge cooling head allready, mabey 11 fins cool looking too. I guess the normal H.21s have smaller heads than the race version.

Buggy shipped! need to sign for it on tuesday.

I'm feeling sick n .. e cough e hack nee blat.... need tues off sniff sniff.


:D Jon

[LouisB]

lol, I have Tuesday off:D But just because I'm on study leave, I've got exams on monday, wednesday, thursday and friday!:(

[LouisB]

The WS7II was great on Sunday. I got pole (just) for the first time. In the 20 min final I decided i'd be gentle on the throttle and make 1 stop (as a few others were doing) even though I wasn't sure if a tank would last that long. 9mins 30 seconds into the final I ran out of fuel! so quick, refuel, start (it didn't want to) and eventually back out on the track, 2 mins lost. I proceded to drive the a$$ off the engine for the final 8 mins, the car was flying, the engine was screaming and i got a lap back on 1st but it wasn't enough. 2nd place:) 2 stops next time.

It was a really short track (and slippery too), the fastest anyone else managed in the final was 17.04 (my fastest lap in qual way 17.10) but I did a string of sub 17 second laps in the final while playing catch-up, the fastest being 16.22!
Great car and great engine, I can't wait to race this thing on grass:D

[fezzy]

Excellent Louis, There where some new MBX5's at Pendle Rally-X yesterday all with WS7 2's, I can't say as I noticed much difference between them and the standard 'older' RB WS7, But they sure are nice anyway. I'm not sure weather to get some really good radio (Futaba 3PJS) and starter box or some OK radio (Futaba 2PHKA/Hitec Aggressor FM), Starter Box AND a Novarossi P5... My 8-Port is running good at the momment though and I will have to sell it to get enough money for the P5, My mate Craig has a P5 and man, its something else....

[LouisB]

Tough choice, definitely get a starter box, not much help:p
A top quality radio is a good investment and will serve you well for many years, but it won't make as much difference to performance as a new engine. Tricky one.

One of the guys I race with has a MBX5 on the way:) Don't know if he's going to take the Sirio out of his Hyper 7, the brand new Novarossi out of his MBX4 XR or buy a new engine for it. More money than sense:eek: fyi he uses a 3PJS

The WS7II has awesome power, more low end than a WS7, you have to try hard not to spin all 4 tyres from a standing start on grass, with Turbo Rats!

[Pacoson]

should be gettin the pro tomorrow!
starter box on Wed, and the gold clutch springs and misc oils and sundries too.

Question on any of your RX batts, Do any of you know what type of cell you use? Ma rate?
Flat pack on TWF8 looked wierd! smaller than SCs 1/3rd A cell?

I build usually my own but what do you all use?

Jon

[soslo]

My son and I use the RayOVak 1600 NiMH's from WalMart.
Direct soldered to the switch lead (No connector to come loose), and charge the pack through the charge lead. (3-way switch harness). We changed the 3 wire charge connector to a 2 wire connector also, but there are 3 way swicth harnesses that come with the 2 wire connectors. (just had more of those connectors laying around.. comes with having a micro RS4 and piccolo)
The 1600 5 cell packs are kinda bulky for the Hyper, but for the run time they are worth it. They fit perfect in the GT.
Just don't like the run time on the ready made packs. One of these days they will come out with smaller cells with more run time. Then we wll go for them. Until then.. These cells hold up great.

[fezzy]

I have a ready made 110mah Nimh Hump Pack, Can't say as it offers great run time.. But it works. I'm going to have to make one with higher mah cells these days.

[LouisB]

I run an OFNA 1000mAh pack.

[Pacoson]

Thanx,

I got the kit today, and there are black alum shock towers!

How cheap, they coulden't even make them the purple to match the rest of the cool stuff.

Screws that hold the top shock ball mount are too long and the non threaded part needs about 2mm of shims!

Not too happy with these so far.


I'm too damn happy though:D

[p.n.e]

hey guys, im gonna be racing the pro for the first time this weekend. any tips? im running an ofna picco comp. 40 wt shock oil all around. 3k in front, torsen in middle and grease in rear. using black springs in back and purple rear springs in the front. do you guys think i should run a torsen in the front too? anyone tried this? its a long track with hard clay and a bit technical. thanks!

[p.n.e]

hey guys, im gonna be racing the pro for the first time this weekend. any tips? im running an ofna picco comp. 40 wt shock oil all around. 3k in front, torsen in middle and grease in rear. using black springs in back and purple rear springs in the front. do you guys think i should run a torsen in the front too? anyone tried this? its a long track with hard clay and a bit technical. thanks!

[gcoolt]

I have kyosho blue springs 25wt frnt 20wt rear, 5k diff frnt and center and I have 1k rear. Works pretty well.

[LouisB]

A front torsen supposedly reduces high speed steering, but gives more steering at low speed. I haven't tried it myself.

[fezzy]

I have a front torsen, Can't say as I can appreciate it though... I am thinking of putting my bevel diff in the front with 5k oil, It seems to be the best 'all round' according to most. My Torsen needs rebuilding now after finishing break in and having some hard use so the bevel diff might be temporary just while I get some torsen oil and rebuild it, It definetely seems like a chore though... Every 2 hours of use?! Jeez...

[Pacoson]

SO, I have the new Pro built and what a fun build!

Had a hard time re-moving the front diff attachment that the CVD goes onto. but I got it. lots of extra screws and stuff and yes all that need be in are in hehehe.

I spoke with dave from www.edogfight.com reguarding the HeCELLS that they sell. What are they?

I use them on my aircraft and they are great! They are 2/3A cell 1000 Mah the battery strap that came with my Pro seems to be made to fit these perfectly width and hight and length.

He will be making RX battery packs in all differen't combinations

But if a goodsize group E-Mail him with our interests, He might make a bunch to ship out first.

I have no self interest nor do Iwork for this company.


Jon

[Pacoson]

I got all the trimming done and wanted to try and start it up


Yeah, Right! The Ofna twin 550 starter box wont even turn it over once LOL.


Great box for my Mugen MT12 but hahaha on the Hyper8 port Race motor

I'll have to heat it up tomorrow or wait till Wed for the new starter box to arrive


P.S Speedzone raceway and RCforless on E-Bay are the same company and Their S&H prices are crazy for 10 plus day delivery
POOR communication , Just a bad experience with each.
just my oppnion, but find better places than these, even for a few more $.

Jon

[LouisB]

Which box are you getting?

When I got my RB I put the flywheel on and took the glow plug out and tried to turn it over using a big wrench, i just about managed to. I then put a little bit of after run oil in the glow plug opening and turned it over w/ wrench some more. Then I put it in the buggy and tried it on my AE starter box. Apart form getting stuck at top dead centre a few times (had to use screwdriver between chassis and flywheel to turn it) the AE box had no trouble turning the engine over, so I put the plug in the glow ignitor and gradually screwed it into the engine, and it started it in no time!

I suggest getting the engine out of the car and turning it over by hand for a while, it might just free up enough to fire. Other things could be the direction of the starter wheel (unlikely but you never know) and if it is starting to spool up the wheel well before the flywheel comes in contact with it. Is the engine stuck at TDC? can you move it at all by hand?

[Pacoson]

The box I'm getting is part #10253 I guess blue with a chrome top. It has the large 12v motor and the power panel.

The motor is tight at tdc I'm gonna play with it a little today, hairdryer,loosen the plug etc...

I was surprised to see the non painted body as part of the kit.


Jon

[Pacoson]

Yep, burt out another 550 motor trying to start the motor!

Plug out 2 drops after run bump it hard,but it went did this a few times.

Filled the fuel, plug out primed till good put the plug in tried to start............................................. ...............Nope

did different things etc kept checking the 550s to see how hot. Not too bad, then pop. No more

I've got 1 more spare 550 but I think I'll wait till my new box comes!

Bummer

[p.n.e]

blow it with the hairdryer for a good 10 mins until its too hot to touch, then it'll start no prob

[fezzy]

I am looking to get a new engine for my PRO, 3 choices.... RB WS7, N/Rossi RX21 P5 or a Picco G1 XP21-BV. Any advice?.

[LouisB]

WS7 or WS7II??? The original WS7 is available quite cheap with the release of the new engine. The REX P5 is also a great engine, how much money do you want to spend?

[fezzy]

WS7 2 would be perfect.... IF it wasn't £210 and everyone I have spoken to say that there is hardly any difference what so ever between that and the older WS7. My cheapest price for a WS7 so far is £165, But thats IF you can get them as Rody Roem says the production of them has ceased and people are begining to rush buy. The N/Rossi P5 I can get for £170 and the Picco G1 XP21-BV is £160, I would also consider a Picco .26 though... They are such good value @ £150.

Anyhow, I have £175 to spend.

[LouisB]

A guy I race with has a WS7 and WS7II, he says the new version has more power, and I agree.

I would go for the P5, it's cheaper but still a great engine.

[fezzy]

The WS7 2 is supposed to be abit quicker and have slightly better fuel economey, But after talking to alot of people its not worth the extra £50 asking price, Even Dave Crompton is still using a RB WS7, So is Tommy Chung and MANY other of the great drivers that attended the National at Pendle yesterday.

[OldskoolGT]

fezzy,

You can't go wrong with any of the engines you listed. I actually have all three of those engines and I like them all. Right now the Picco XP is my current favorite.

For most tracks (that I run on), I prefer the low end torque that the Picco XP or P5 delivers. Its hard to use all the power that a WS7 can produce unless you run on a very big track. And putting stronger clutch springs in to give more low end punch just makes the car very hard to control.

[fezzy]

Well, Thanks alot for your opinions guys. I'm going with a WS7 2, Black RB 063 Pipe and a RB Manifold... Plus other stuff, Going to get a couple of plugs tomorrow and a Nuova Faor A/Filter.

[LouisB]

cool, sounds good.

Let us know how it works for you.
The WS7II should be perfect for most UK tracks because they're so big.

[LouisB]

btw the RB #7 plugs are a great choice for racing, very reliable.

[fezzy]

The #7 is one of the coldest plugs they do though isn't it.... I'm only going to be running 16% Nitro so I am going to go with a #4 or #5, But I am going to go with a #5 cause its getting into summer now and very hot. You need to use a hotter plug with less nitro content because the more nitro you run the more combustion = more heat, Vica versa with less nitro but you still want it to run at good temps, A engine running cooler than 200f tuned correctly is alot worse than an engine running at 300f and correctly tuned.

[toddzilla]

even the S7 "europa" provides more than enough power , and is quite a bit cheaper. many people think that the europa is pretty much the same power output as the Ws7, it just doesn't have a few of the mods that the worlds version has. i run an S7 and am very happy with it's performance, i don't get pulled on a straight when i am tuned properly by anyone with a production engine..

[LouisB]

the S7 is a great engine and ballistic on small tracks, and the WS7 used to lack some low end power and wasn't as good on tight, technical tracks. The WS7II has the low end of a S7 and the top end of the original WS7, therefore it rules all:p

A couple of the guys over here have WS7s and S7 Europas. When we race on a short track they put in the Europas, so they do have plenty of power.


fezzy, I've run the #6 plug with 16% fuel and it performs very well, in hot and cold weather. I've been recommended the #7, but that could be just with 25% i s'pose. I've got some 25% Byron Race on the way to try out.

[racer13]

I have a Hyper 7 RTR, that got smashed into a brick wall WOT, after that my brother's friend gave it to me for free.. well, many things are messed up on it, i see that.. the intire rear end is perfect.. the center diff is good, but the front diff feels like it locks up some (took it apart and no broken teeth at all.. was greesed.) Here are the things it needs:

chassis, motor, tires/rims, gas tank, center cv's, front brace, radio box, front shocks and shock tower, steering servo, and some other smaller front end peices.. Here's my deliemma, it will cost me about $150-250 for all the parts, minus motor.. So should i just go buy a new car? (hoping to find a Hyper 7 pro for $300 or less) w/o motor.. then later on i plan on buying a WS7 2 or something.

[LouisB]

There are some good deals on ebay, and you can use the parts from the existing car as spares.

[fezzy]

Still waiting for my WS7 II.... Should of been here today, Should definetely be here tomorrow.. :( :D

[LouisB]

It will be worth the wait:)

I'm racing tomorrow and I'm going to try out my new centre spider diff, it should hold up to the power of the WS7II.

[racer13]

Are there any good reccomended motors for me?


i've had one nitro car before, .15, sold it though.. i want a motor that isnt Too expensive, but is reliable and keeps a tune

[daveryley]

I got a new toy:D http://community.webshots.com/sym/image6/6/93/27/77869327DKoIFJ_ph.jpg

AHHHHHHHH it dont work:rolleyes:

[fezzy]

It didn't come :( :( :( :(

[LouisB]

Originally posted by racer13
Are there any good reccomended motors for me?


i've had one nitro car before, .15, sold it though.. i want a motor that isnt Too expensive, but is reliable and keeps a tune

OS makes some very reliable and easy to tune engines, the RZ and RG.


where are you getting the engine from fezzy?

[racer13]

Well i found a place online that sells the hyper 7 pro for $340 NIB, too bad they dont have any RB motors D=, Whats a good price for the new WS7 II motor? i found one for $320 and i also found an S7 europea for $220

[fezzy]

Off this internet website... I know alot of people that have had stuff off them and not had a problem.

[LouisB]

very odd, the post can be funny sometimes. Are you sure they had one in stock?

$320 is a good price for a WS7-II, I say get it! I raced at a new track today, I was 4th after qualifying (drive shaft fell out during my fastest heat) but the engine was great. In the final I got the holeshot and pulled away, it's so much fun pulling past cars with CMB LSIs and Novarossi P5s down the straight;) It really was the fastest engine out there, and from what I've heard from the top national drivers it's in a class of its own in terms of power.

Anyway, I finished 1st, and had a decent gap back to 2nd place :D

One guy has a Mugen MBX-4 with a LSI, a Hyper 7 with a Sirio and a MBX-5 with the new Nova P5, a little bit too much money methinks:eek:

[racer13]

no im not sure if they had any in stock, i'll email them though.. I'm planning to get one as soon as i raise the money! so far im at $0.00 but its a start right?! ahah nah, bday is on the 26th and im selling some cards on ebay, hopefully i'll get it.. then around christmas i'll buy a motor (or electronics and remote) depends. ahaha

[LouisB]

I was talking to fezzy in the first line of the post;)
I expect the price will go down a bit by Xmas if you decide to get it then.

[fezzy]

Yea mate they have them in stock.. Its basically a farce on behalf of the couriers that I have found out today, Hopefully I will have it today or tomorrow at the latest. :)

I am not sure though but I think I have abit of a problem with my steering assembly. I seem to have play when I steer all the way right (from the back) and force the wheel over more from where my radio puts it to there is alot more play from that location, Do it left and its fine.

[LouisB]

Won't be long until you've got the engine, hopefully;)

Not sure on the play issue, do you know exactly which part is causing it?

I find the metal steering link plate develops a lot of slop very quickly. There's a hard anodized one available that I might get, but if it's the same size as the Kyosho 7.5 plate then I'll get a carbon fibre one.

[fezzy]

I think I found out what it is.... I don't know why this is or how it is, But I think I've got the wrong bellcrank on the right hand side (From the front), The one without the servo saver in... Mine has a big molded hole cut out of it and the steering link itself is going off on an angle toward that link, Not only that but the angle of the turnbuckles are also odd, I don't know how this happened but the guy who I bought it off must of broken the standard one and put this on..Very odd. Anyhow my mate has one spare so I should be sorted tonight, Along with my engine.. Just glad I noticed it!.

[LouisB]

Very strange, do you think it could be a part from another kit?

[fezzy]

I got it!!!!!!!!!!!! :D :D

Put it in now along with my nuova faor 2-stage a/filter, mugen 1.1 clutch springs, black rb 063 pipe and polished rb manifold!. I can't believe the quality and build of the engine, Its mind blowing!!. I'm just in shock now that I have a H7 Pro and WS7 II, Its a pure bread racing animal.... Over the moon with it all and can't wait to get racing now (Didn't think I'd say that!!!).

Anyhow, My mate let me have the steering bellcrank off a parts lot he bought, He didn't rekon he'd ever break one so he let me have it... Anyhow, My steering is spot on now, Much smoother and perfect equal lock on left and right turning. Sure as hell would like to know what happened to the one it should of had on though and where indeed the one that was on came from....

Pictures to follow this week hopefully!.

[LouisB]

Sweeet http://www.*************.com/forum/images/smilies2/rocking.gif

I know the feeling :D I'm running a very similar set-up, the only difference is the air filter and the colour of the pipe. When you've got this beast broken in (which is very easy) I say leave the 8mm carb restrictor in, or even get a 6mm one (gonna try than next race) because it has more power than you will know what to do with :D

[fezzy]

Louis, Yea my non race orientated mates rekon I should take the restrictor out.... But I've seen these beasts in action and I'm leaving that sucker in!. :eek:

I have reservations about break in.... It seems very tight indeed, I am running a TTR Box though and thats broke in my 8-Port and my mates P5 so fingers crossed it'll fire when the plug is loosened up abit.

[LouisB]

I run the AE box (same thing, they didn't have the TTR in stock) and it started the RB up no problem. Have a screwdriver handy to gently free the flywheel if it gets stuck at TDC (which it will, a couple of times)
I found the easiest way was to take the plug out completely and get the engine turning over, then put the plug in the end of a glow driver and put it in the engine and screw in a turn or so, prime, and away you go:)

[fezzy]

Thanks for that Louis.. I remember with my 8Port and my mates P5 that we had to use a flat-head driver to force the flywheel back down to bottom dead.

[LouisB]

Got it running yet?

[fezzy]

Tomorrow is the day Louis... Tomorrow :cool:

I'm having some A/Filter problems at the momment though, I have a Nuova Faor 2-Stage Air Filter and I can't seem to get it mounted right, It comes with a 90 degree elbow. It catches the shell on the far side where it slopes down, I've read that you can cut the elbow down to cure this, But then it would catch the rear brake cam even more and that would peel back the foam element which is even worse!. Likewise it also catches on the carb arm which could havd disasterous consequences if the oil happens to lubricate the balljoint and it pops off during a race. Someone please help me... I'm all out of ideas and am going to go back to the standard air filter soon if I can't get it sorted out, But with running a brand new WS7 2 I don't want to run a single stage filter!

Dunno if the new PBS Elbow will cure it or not... Hmmmm more money!. :eek:

[LouisB]

I've never had a problem with single stage air filters. I bought a couple more of the stock elements and keep them oiled up and ready for a swap after a heat or two, depending on the surface I'm racing on. If you clean them well with hot water and washing up liquid and use enough air filter oil then there is no problem.

[haittmax]

You can raise the rear body post. Only one screw can be used to hold the mount on this way. The filter doesnt hit the body anymore and the linkage doesnt hit either...................Mike

[fezzy]

Thanks for that man, I will have to give it ago.

Well folkes, I broke it in... took 10 tanks and four hours but its there and first word that comes into my head without swearing? f**king WOW!!!.

For the first tank ever it had I put it on the box and it fired on the first bump with the glowplug loose... It then stalled, So I whacked the trim up, Put the piston to BDC and tryed again... VROOM! Started great, down with the trim, Gave it abit of gas and then turned my elecys off and sit it on the ground. It must of took 15-20 minutes for that first idle tank but it ran through it like a champ all on its own... VERY impressive. My next tank I richened up the high end a turn and run it round like that for the 3 tanks, Didn't get very hot at all but I still just did what it said.. For the next 3 tanks I leaned it a 1/4 of a turn and ran it again, Still not very hot at all but carried on anyway... Again for the next 2 tanks I leaned it about 1/4 of a turn over both of them, Then the final tank I ran I leaned it about nother 1/8 and it was fast enough for me!. I still don't think the engine got over 200 on that final tank, But it was putting out loads of smoke and ran from tank-to-tank with ease, The low end seems still to be quite rich, Maybe a 1/4 of a turn to go on that (Haven't touched it yet from the first tank) and about another 1/8 turn on the high, Then when the shells on I think it will be spot on!.

I can't begin to stress the reliability of this engine, It started so easily and ran so well from tank to tank... Even for such a high compression engine it started easier than any other engine I have ever owned. Now for the performance... The acceleration is simple fearsome and thats with the low end rich!, But don't think it stops there because it screams top end, But it has an incredibly smooth power band.. MUCH More controllable than my mates super-responsive Novarossi P5.

I am over the moon with it, Comes HIGHLY recommended, I shall keep you all posted!.

Oh, My mate took some pics too so I'll get those up later on!.

[LouisB]

That's great to hear, I found mine just as easy ot break in. It's nice being able to leave the engine idling gently during break-in knowing that it will only stop when it runs out of fuel.

[fezzy]

As mentioned....

http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/H77.jpg
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/H79.jpg
http://www.steel-dragon.co.uk/ash/H73.jpg

More pics here - http://www.******.net/member/AshleyT

[LouisB]

looks good, very clean (but that won't stay that way for long when the 7 II starts tearing up the track)

[fezzy]

lol, They where mostly taken before running.. Doesn't look THAT clean now.. I will soon fix that though :D

I'm getting some of the larger pics uploaded now (Waiting for a few more to get back to me). Here is the link with a few on though (http://www.geocities.com/adamp211)

[LouisB]

:cool:

What's your local track like? I was trying to get over to the Weston Park (?) meeting (1/8, 1/10th nitor trucks and monster trucks) but couldn't fit it in.

[fezzy]

My local is Preston Rally-X (http://www.prcc.co.uk) They've just finished off there main track after growing it for a National that was held there last weekend.. Its a BIG track.

[LouisB]

Nice track, long and twisty. Looks like a fun track to drive.

The club over here rotates between 3 different tracks, one shorter grass one, one big grass track and a hard-packed dirt track.

[haittmax]

Fezzy, few questions for ya if you dont mind.

did the stock clutch nut fit
did u have to cut the shaft
how much did you pay for the engine and where did u get it

Guess I wanna know if I can just plop that baby in my hyper, using all my hyper (4 port) parts :D thanx bro, Mike

[LouisB]

I s'pose I can answer those questions b/c I also have a WS7 II.

1) It comes with a clutch nut
2) No cutting at all
3) Top Options (http://www.topoptions.com) for £210 (price has gone up a bit)

[fezzy]

Yea Louis is right on all accounts, Clutch nut fits perfectly & The crank didn't need to be cut at all, I also got mine from Top Options :D.

One thing I will say to you is this, Don't use the collet that comes on the engine (Its black), Use the brass collet that came with your H7 that you took off, You will need to part it a tiny bit for it to fit over the crankshaft, But once its on it fits the standard H7 flywheel MUCH better than the RB one that comes with the engine. This is all of course if your using the standard H7 flywheel, Any other and you will have to compare the fitment into the flywheel.

[LouisB]

Yep, I'm not actually sure which nut I used, I expect I ended up using the Hyper one because it was a better fit.

[haittmax]

Thanx alot guys!

[haittmax]

Thanx alot guys!

[fezzy]

I should add that I paid £240.50 for my WS7 2, RB Manifold and RB 063 Black Pipe, But I got it as a deal with my mate who also bought a WS7 2 and RB Manifold, So the engine was £200, Pipe £25 and Manifold £13.... But I would be very suprised if you got to pay that much because we did buy two at once to get that price. He's now had to put the price up but he is selling it with a free set of tyres to compensate, Which is still the best deal you will find.

Louis.. Where did you get yours from?

[racer13]

On that site it says the hyper 7 pro is £380.00, how much is that in USD? thnx a lot.

[fezzy]

$625 USD, Thats a very very reasonable price too.

[LouisB]

Top options too, but one of the first 4 they had in, I think it was £210, not sure.

£380 is a good price in the UK, but you can get Hyper 7 Pros for around $470 in the US. So it's around $155 cheaper from the US.

[racer13]

i found a shop that sells hyper 7 pros for $340 USD NIB.

[LouisB]

Very good price :) I just looked at Stormer Hobbies to find a comparison, that's why so many people form Europe order kits from the US.

[Crashbot2001]

Racer13, what shop?

[PC2K]

Fezzy!!! Your in Preston! :D
Im in Manchester and passing the track on the way to West View Leisure center for elec touring there.
Im going to be ordering a Hyper7 in the next month or so, and i can get them for very attractive prices, the only thing is that i know NOTHING about nitro what so ever!! :D
I know electrics, nitro has always been something thats never done it for me, ive always prefered touring over off-road, and elec has always been more conveinient.

Things changed a couple of months back, i bought the XXXMain 2 DVD, i sat down, watched 60min of short clips.... and the house jump! After seeing that, its made me very interested, i was gonna get the MP7.5, the Kanai version, but it would be too expensive for me as a starter, so i decided on the Hyper7 pro
I have mates in the states who can pick me up the pro model for $350, brand new, in the box etc

Theres no way i was gonna turn that opertunity down!!
I plan to fit it out with either top Hitec or KO servers, a XXL and the hyper7 8-port engine, and i can do all that for something in the region of £450-475 into the country
Thats at the same time that ModelsportUK are selling the Pro kit for £450 (with the online discount)

Would you mind if i emailed/PM'd you for info on what gear im going to be needing to order??

If anyone else is interested in more details on the Hyper7 kits then let me know, i mentioned that there was someone else over here that i know who's about to pay £360/$600 for the RTR version and asked if i could have one sent over for them also, and there happy with it, but not at Staff rates (i get it at mates rates basically).
Both the RTR and Pro kit could be sold for $400 which is still much cheaper than anywhere else ($60 less than TowerHobbies!)

Its genuine, i cant name names because they dont sell the item at that price on the street, theres not many available (something like 5 Pro & 8 RTR) so if your interested in them, or the OFNA engines etc, let me know, cant do any harm and i can get a price for the item for you.

Anyway, Fezzy, im gonna email you through the forum, I know nothing other than what kit & engine i want, pipes & that i havent a clue about, if its shiney, its good enough for me, thats my current view!! scary isnt it!! :D

PaulC2K

[fezzy]

Paul, If you use MSN add me.... ashtuk@hotmail.com. I would be glad to answer any questions you may have... Oh, And I know who you are.. Paint a shell for me? ;)

Need some help with the 20 degree hub carriers fellaz, Which upper arm do you run? I didn't know whether you only run with the others supplied with the kit with the 22's only. Cheers.

[LouisB]

I think you flip the 22* upper arms over when using 20* carriers.

[fezzy]

Thanks Louis. Both myself and my mate (Who bought a WS7 2 at the same time as me) are having doubts over the performance of our engines, Mainly we got to run our H7's side-by-side with our mates Storm with S7 Europa, His S7 seems much more responsive and it screams alot more, We are now convinced something isn't right with our setup... I know his Storm is lighter than the H7's and his engine is well broken in (You can turn his flywheel over by hand, Can't with the WS7 2s), His engine also runs the same temps as ours (around 225f). So I was just wondering what clutch setup you are using (Flywheel/Collet/Clutch Shoes/Springs). Both of us are using the standard collet for the H7, Standard H7 flywheel, Standard H7 Shoes and running Mugen 1.1 Clutch Springs, Both running the standard 13t bell and 16% Elite Models Pink Power fuel. I used the standard H7 collet as it fit the flywheel of the H7 alot better than the black one supplied with the WS7 2, Just contemplating trying the RB one out but I think it'd be worse..

My and my mates WS7 2s are both running with the high speed needle at 2 3/4 from closed, They run fine with no bogging/erratic behaviour and display a reasonable ammount of smoke.

Cheers.

[LouisB]

Weird, I've raced head 2 head with a Europa (in a K2) and there wasn't much low end difference but the WS7II pulled it at top speed no problem. Maybe it's your low end needle? I've found the needles to be very sensitive and a very slight adjustment can make a big increase in performance. I run the same set-up but with the silver Ho Bao flywheel and Byron 16% and it runs pretty much perfect. Make sure that the clutch shoes are in good condition (sand the outside of the shoes and the inside of the bell) and it should be fine. I've also found that my engine is getting better and better with use, I've had just over a gallon through it so far and it's still impossible to turn over by hand when cold.

Just give it some more time to wear in and try leaning it a little, I've got mine at around 2 1/2 - 2 3/4 turns and it runs at around 230*F with plenty of smoke.

[p.n.e]

i found if u sand the bell it will rust over time. i just scuff the shoes and leave the bell. why are you guys running 16% on those lovely engines? give them some quality race 20% and you'll see a lot more power. all the guys at our track are running 20 and upwards. a lot of 25's and 30's too. im running powermaster 30% and the power is awesome!

[fezzy]

There aren't very many top quality 20% Fuels in the UK, There are some good 25% fuels but they are quite expensive... Many people also argue the difference it really makes.

[LouisB]

I've got some Byron 25% on order, but it runs well on 16%.

[LouisB]

I got a set of RC Screwz (http://www.rcscrewz.com) stainless steel screws today, one of the best upgrades you can make IMO. $24 for the full 206 piece set is a fantastic price too. My H7 is now very shiny and generally feels more solid, due to all the self tapping screws being replaced by machine screws that get much more purchase on the plastic.

[GTX]

Will a Hyper 7 diff work in a Dominator/MP diff case? I am blowing ring gears with my WS7 and I am wondering if it will fit.

The HD gears on the optional diff for the MP uses four screws on the inside of the ring gear. The only ring gear that has four inside holes is the ring gear for the Hyper 7, so it must be true.

Can anyone verify this?

[fezzy]

I think your way off with the MP HD Diff, Its not the same as the H7 Diff, After owning both cars I'd say the H7 Diff would not fit.

[baneonrt]

A friend and I were bashing around in the flat area of the Lake Almanor spillway near Chester, CA. Here is a short video of one of his jumps. I thought it was pretty cool so figured I'd share.

http://steve.baneon.org/rc10gt/videos/Hyper7.WMV

Hopefully you all can see it. If it doesn't auto play right click on the link and save it to disk. It's small, less than 120KB.

Steve

[LouisB]

Cool jump :)


Race Report -

Very hot and dusty but my H7 handled very well. After less than a minute into the 1st heat the clutch bell stripped and also damaged the spur gear on my new Spider diff :( I changed the diff for a standard one but I didn't have a spare clutch bell so I just moved the engine closer to the spur to get a good mesh. I was warming the engine up ready for the 2nd heat when it stopped, blown clutch bearing :(
I put some spare bearings in hoping to make my last round count, and it did :D I managed to get TQ by just over a second.
I knew that there would be a lot of retirements in the A final so I took it easy and didn't go big off the jumps and kept it smooth and steady. I ended up ahead due to other people's problems and stayed there for the win. I'm now tied for 1st place in the championship after 5 rounds :)

[fezzy]

Congratulations Louis :)

[LouisB]

Thanks mate :D

How's your RB going now?

[fezzy]

Seems to be going OK, Top end is fantastic but its missing some low end and not as 'responsive' as it was just after break in... Wondering whether to invest in some aluminium clutch shoes.

[LouisB]

Could be a good idea, I'm thinking about trying some too.

Lean it a little bit more but keep an eye on the temperature, it should be very responsive when just right. One thing I've found is when the high end needle is slightly richer that the response is less linear and there is not much punch in the middle of the RPM range. Once I leaned it out a fraction it was much smoother and very responsive.

[fezzy]

Well a friend of mine ended up doing that anyway on Saturday, He leaned it about quater of a turn from where I had it, And although slightly rich it wasn't bogging or anything, But temps where like 260f, Which sounds too lean to me considering that my other mates S7 Euopra runs at 230 and thats supposed to have the 'inferior' cooling head, So thats when I had another tuning session myself on Sunday. Top end seems to be fantastic, But low end is very flat, After break in it was very 'darty' now its not.

[LouisB]

If you stab the throttle will it light up all the tyres (spikes on grass) or is it sluggish? If I move the stick to half throttle then it doesn't appear to have much punch, but a blip of WOT will spin the tyres like crazy. I think this is great because wheelspin is wasted power and fuel IMO. This is the most linear engine I have ever driven, if you give it 1/4 throttle it will go at 1/4 speed and won't build RPMs like many other engines do when at 1/2 throttle.

[GTX]

Does anyone know where you can get a Hyper 7 Pro for less than $430 at Stormer? I knew where I could find it for 400, but I can't remember where....

[fezzy]

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com

[fezzy]

I'm getting ready for my first race tomorrow with the H7, I got my WS7-2 Running really well today, lots of smoke all the way to full throttle, No bogging, No stalling and it was very quick off the line and top end. The car was also handling good, Black springs F/R, Drilled shock pistons with 35wt front and 25wt rear, Very stable and easy to drive, Excellent grip too with my new pink turbo rats.

Will let you know how I go :)

[LouisB]

Have fun, the track looks like a lot of fun to drive!

I expect the engine is just getting fully bedded in and starting to loosen up a bit, should scream on the track :)

Rats are very good tyres, but on grass grip-roll can be a problem. They're my tyre of choice because of the amazing bite but I've found that Pro-line Mugshots are very good on dirt and make the car less "on edge" (if that's possible with the Hyper's stability) on grass than with Turbo Rats. Also have a look at Medial Pro Raptors, they are similar to rats but without the excessive grip ;)

[fezzy]

Just ghot back, And I am absolutely bushed!!!. I suprised myself with the H7, I think I qualified for the A-Final out of 30 drivers, But decided not to race it (I had enough for one day). My WS7 2 ran OK, But on my 3rd heat it was starting to cut because it was too lean, I adjusted it and that heat it was right on the edge of stalling, For my next I richened it up and then it was too rich... So I did very badly then and ran out of fuel before the end of the heat, The one after that the engine decided to run good and I did really well.

[LouisB]

Congrats, I had a similar problem with tuning at my first race, too lean then too rich. The carb is very sensitive to adjustments, a 1/16th of a turn change made a 60*F temp change!

[NoleC5]

I was having a problem with my H-7 bogging down after a few runs. I decided to rebuild all of the diffs. Glad I did. They had no grease or oil in them.

After I rebuilt the diffs, I realized that the Front wheels lock up after a few turns. This is what was causing the engine to bog down. I know that the diff is built right and spins fine when it is off of the car.

Does anyone have any idea what could be causing the front end to lock up, once I have assembled everything?

[LouisB]

Are the pins coming out of the CVDs? This is the most common cause of drive-train lock ups on the H7s I've seen. If there is excessive wear on the output cups that may be the source of the problem. But that wouldn't cause both wheels to lock up after a few turns. Are the pinion and crown gears in good condition?