Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[LouisB]

fezzy, has your purple steering plate developed much slop yet? After only a few races mine is totally worn, so I ordered the C/F one for the Kyosho at Top Options, I got it today and it's almost a perfect fit. The Kyosho bushings are bigger than on the Hyper so I put 2 5x8mm ball bearings in the holes and used some Traxxas shoulder screws to attach it. It's very slightly shorter than the stock one but all the slop is gone!

[fezzy]

I can't really say it has Louis

[LouisB]

Oh, alright, I s'pose I've had the buggy for quite a while longer and it's been subjected to some serious jumps (and crashes)

[PC2K]

Hi guys,

Fezzy/Ash:
Im gonna have to jump onto MSN again sometime soon and pester you some more about this beautiful buggy!
Still not much further towards getting one, but the list of bits & peices are getting long and longer!

Do either of you think its worth getting any of the PCR bits for the Pro version?
And what about the PBS Pivot ball upgrade, is it worth doing or is the c-hub better?
Im definately not getting the PBS kit, dont like what i've heard about the starter box and the engine being so stiff that its killing it in the run-in stage.

Sooner pay the extra bit more and get the Pro, race engine and a decent starter box that'll last.

Also, heat guns, where from, how much, and what do they do!
Im hearing that you want the engine at the right temp to make sure its run in correctly, so the heat gun would tell you the temp, right? anything else or is that the lot?

PC2K

[fezzy]

I have been told that the PBS is not that much better than the C-Hub, Its easier to make adjustments to camber/toe-in or out but its wear rate is much greater and its supposed to be weaker. Some of the PCR Upgrades are nice, But most of them are just for show... For instance if your Pro comes with Carbon Fibre shock towers you might want to look at the PCR Shock Towers, But even then I wouldn't waste my money on those as Hobao themselves make some excellent indestructable shocktowers made from really thick 7075 aluminium, But milled down in the middle for weight saving, They are very good and only cost £32 for both front and rear, Where as you'd expect to pay £50 for front and rear PCR towers.

Oh, And on the heat gun issue, They're basically ordinary thermal infra red temperature gauges, The cheapest I have seen them for is £30.

Oh, You got mail too..

[mtrsprt]

Borrowed a friends GPS last night. I strapped in on the rear with with rubber bands. Made 5 250' passes up and down the road. I tried real hard to break the 38mph mark, but couldnt do it. I didnt want to change my needle setting, becasue its perfect right where it is.

The buggy is 100% stock except for a Hi-Tec 605BB throttle/brake servo. I have a 645MG in the mail for the steering.

I also have a 15T clutch bell arriving soon. I will take another GPS reading when I get the clutch bell installed. Overall, the buggy handles great with the stock setup. Engine is great performer in all categories IMO.

I figure with the 15T clutch bell, 45mph could be possible. Not bad for a single speed:D

[Scarab RC]

You will hate the 645 for steering. It's transit time is pathetically slow. You will feel like your steering is sluggish. You should have gotten either the Hitec (low quality) 945 or the Airtronics (great quality) 94358Z. Both very fast and very strong. I've raced with my Airtronics now for two years with no problems.

For throttle/brake you should have gotten the Hitec 625. Stronger and faster then the 605 AND it has metal gears. I don't believe the 605 has metal gears.

Scarab

[MAXX 2.5]

hi i picked up a used hyper pbs and needed to know whats a good starter box for the 8 port engine. i was thinking of the ofna bluebox/chrome top. is it a good choice??? thanks

[LouisB]

That's a good box, I like single motor boxes like the OFNA Multibox/TTR/Associated (all the same basically) because they have plenty of grun, enough to start up the tightest engines.

[daveryley]

I have all the PCR parts on my hyper.

If you have the money to do it go for it.

I like to be a little bit different to everyone else.




Originally posted by PC2K
Hi guys,

Fezzy/Ash:
Im gonna have to jump onto MSN again sometime soon and pester you some more about this beautiful buggy!
Still not much further towards getting one, but the list of bits & peices are getting long and longer!

Do either of you think its worth getting any of the PCR bits for the Pro version?
And what about the PBS Pivot ball upgrade, is it worth doing or is the c-hub better?
Im definately not getting the PBS kit, dont like what i've heard about the starter box and the engine being so stiff that its killing it in the run-in stage.

Sooner pay the extra bit more and get the Pro, race engine and a decent starter box that'll last.

Also, heat guns, where from, how much, and what do they do!
Im hearing that you want the engine at the right temp to make sure its run in correctly, so the heat gun would tell you the temp, right? anything else or is that the lot?

PC2K ;)

[fezzy]

The TTR Box/Associated/OFNA Multibox/Whatever else its called is a superb box :D

[LouisB]

Hey fezzy, I tried out the 25% this morning. It needs to be a fair bit richer but the low end power is much better, and there's loads of smoke. Once I've got it tuned right I'll be able to see how much runtime I get.

[fezzy]

Nice one Louis, Keep us posted!.

[LouisB]

The temps are good and the efficiency is not that much different but there's a noticable increase in torque, so much so that the clutch is slipping more. I might have to get some of those Kyosho alloy shoes.

[p.n.e]

told you the higher nitro would wake it up! what brand are you using? i've found quality 20% can be better than sport 25% or sport 30% in a lot of cases

[LouisB]

Byron Race 2500, I never had a problem with the performance but it's definitely better than with 16%.

[LouisB]

I got 2nd in the A yeasterday, the engine was running great but my set-up was a bit too stiff for the bumpy track. Despite the scorching weather the WS7 II performed perfectly and could make 7 minutes even with overly rich settings which were required to counteract the temperature. The track was very technical, and with a longer straight I'm sure I would have had an advantage over the competition.

The only problem I had was a badly slipping clutch, it was hotter than the engine after the 5 minute heats. I don't know whether to try alloy clutch shoes or maybe a Fioroni sliding clutch? Do alloy shoes actually improve clutch bite?

[fezzy]

Nice one Louis!. I changed my clutch to a Nuova Faor clutch set, Includes purple flywheel, enclosed cap, shoes, springs etc and only £18 for the lot. The ally shoes are the way to go, But have a shorter life span and higher maintainence.. Also they are not cheap, If you get them you need to run a new clutchbell (un-worn), Clutch springs and bearings.....

[LouisB]

That's what has put me off alloy shoes, there isn't really enough time for constant maintainence.

I think the sliding clutch is around £20 for the complete set, and there are shoes with a huge contact patch available. I might have to put a smaller restrictor in too. Thanks for the tip anyway, I'll be sure to look into it.

[fezzy]

I did look into the sliding clutches but everyone I spoke to said they where very poor.

Here is a pic of my Nuova Faor Clutch Set and what is included, So far its been pretty good, Bite is defientely better and the shoes are of a harder material than stock so should last quite a while too.
http://www.nuovafaor.it/foto1/V34.jpg

[LouisB]

looks good, I've heard mixed opinions on the sliding clutch too, maybe the 4 shoe Fioroni would be a good idea?

[prevelige]

guys,

when I use the 22 degree caster block, how do I tell which upper arms are correct? The ones I used with the 20 degree blocks don't seem right, but the other ones are so far offset, that the arms seem to bind up a little. Any tips?

[LouisB]

You should have 2 sets of arms. Use the arms that you used with the 20* caster blocks but flip them upside-down so the turnbuckle part is further back.

[fezzy]

Louis, I can't say as I have heard any feedback on the 4-Shoe Fioroni.. Never really considered a 4-Shoe to do very much either :cool:

[LouisB]

Yeah, I suppose the material used for the shoes makes the most difference when it comes to bite.

[toddzilla]

i run the 2 shoe fioroni in my hyper and i like it alot. i think many people who complain about it simply like working on their clutches since i haven't had to mess with mine in 3 weeks :p i also run the regular turbo in my dominator and am quite happy with it as well. no more cussing at clutch springs for me!!

[toddzilla]

http://www.ericallenogle.com/todd/h7333.jpg

picture of my buggy, i have since added a CMB raptor engine.. no more ofna junk engines for me :p

[turbochrgdRICE]

Here's a pic of my Hyper 7 RTR flying through the air. Right now it's benched because it's waiting for Ace Hobbies to get the WS7 II in stock. Hopefully tomorrow my Hyper 7 won't have to wait any longer ;)

[daveryley]

Thats not flying. This is flying.

My Buggy:D

[LouisB]

Nice buggies!

I've posted this pic before, but here it is again.

http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/hypernew2.jpg

toddzilla, are those PCR suspension pin plates? If so how do you like them? My stock purple ones have developed a load of slop. I was thinking about the CMB too, but went for the WS7 II because of the better efficiency. I haven't seen many CMBs but all of them have drunk fuel like....well....I drink beer.....

turbochrgdRICE, good luck with the engine, I'm sure you'll have fun with it.

[toddzilla]

those are the stock pro plates, they have a little slop but it isn't too bad. i bought my buggy used, it had a full season on it already. i'll buy a new H7pro for next year and use mine for parts.

my raptor has a ws7 carb on it and i have no trouble with fuel efficiency at all. it has a TON of low end and mid range power, and hopefully the top end will pick up when i change my gearing.

and, this is flying.. my dominator in the jump contest at a local track..

http://www.ericallenogle.com/todd/truckjump.jpg

[daveryley]

Nice to see a Dom airborn like that:)

[LouisB]

Originally posted by toddzilla
those are the stock pro plates, they have a little slop but it isn't too bad. i bought my buggy used, it had a full season on it already. i'll buy a new H7pro for next year and use mine for parts.

my raptor has a ws7 carb on it and i have no trouble with fuel efficiency at all. it has a TON of low end and mid range power, and hopefully the top end will pick up when i change my gearing.


:cool: I think all of the Pro kits over here have purple suspension plates, the same a the basic kit. HoBao make some hard anodized ones which are cheaper than the PCR parts so I might get those.

I wonder if the Raptor is more efficient than the LSi? A guy round here with a LSi powered Mugen can only make 4 minutes on a tank!

[tc3xtreme1]

Does any know how to tune the new carb with twin low ends. Thanks

[turbochrgdRICE]

Originally posted by daveryley
Thats not flying. This is flying.

My Buggy:D

THat's no fair!! I've only got a small toolbox and a piece of wood to launch my buggies off of... :(

I got my WS7 II the other day but i had to stay at my aunt's house that past night so I couldn't install the engine in then. That's what I have today for :D . The only problem is is that i have to cut the hole on the body for te heat sink. The Hyper .21 heat sink is MUCH MUCH MUCH smaller than the WS7II's.

[LouisB]

Yep, it's massive, the bigger the better :D
Curved scissors should make light work of it.

[turbochrgdRICE]

Hey LouisB, got any naked pictures of your buggy?


------
I've got a question. What good are the center chassis braces if the screws aren't strong?? When I was looking over my buggy, prior to installing the RB, I found that the screw that holds my rear brace in was bent (so the chassis brace wasn't doing anything). Oh well, what can u do...

[LouisB]

I'll see what I can do, it's a bit of a mess at the moment.

I bought a bag of screws from RC ScrewZ and replace them every couple of meetings.

[LouisB]

http://www.grccc.supanet.com/gallery/hyp1.jpg

[fezzy]

Here is my Pro w/WS7 2 (Now you've all started ;))
http://www.ashleyt.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk

There are also some pics of my racing buddies cars, You can see some pics of mine and my mates STD H7 with WS7 2, And our mate Roy with his H7 w/Sirio SB21, He often does VERY well and is a excellent driver.

[LouisB]

It's a Hyper-fest!

I need to go over to England and do some racing, I don't know what though (maybe electric TC but probably 1/8) but it might have to wait until next year when I've got a Drake NT to race too :D A couple of guys from my club went over to race at Eastnor Castle in a 2 day event. I'm at a similar level of driving as Jason, he's just in the lead of the 1/8 championship at the moment by couple of points (but I'm beating him in TC)
He (Jason Robilliard) did pretty well against some good drivers http://www.nitrotrucks.com/810r2/ including Steve Haynes. I think in the A final for Rally X on Sunday he was only beaten by Steve and Lee Taylor (ex 1/10 off-road racer and very quick) so I should stand a chance :)

[mtrsprt]

Heres a few of mine:
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid73/p071411cc1820ac2487dbce443a0de08a/fb6ffc5a.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid73/p217410933d54f64a54705aeb8355ab4a/fb6ffc55.jpg
http://www.imagestation.com/picture/sraid73/p5306fd6c5defc7875699b4364407804b/fb6ffc53.jpg

[toddzilla]

I wonder if the Raptor is more efficient than the LSi? A guy round here with a LSi powered Mugen can only make 4 minutes on a tank!

that could be, the lsi is a long stroke engine, and they seem to be more thirsty than a more "square" engine. a friend of mine has a P5 that barely makes 5 mins.. i can go 6+ on my raptor and i haven't really pushed the limit as far as lean-tuning and extra fuel filters, carb restricters etc..
it has about 3/4 of a gallon through it and is really starting to wake up on the top end, this thing is crazy fast!!:p

[LouisB]

That makes sense, I've seen some very thirsty long stroke engines. Are you running a restrictor? With the 8mm I can get at least 7 mins (rich settings, heavy on the throttle) but on cooler days and with gentle throttle inputs it can get up around 9 1/2

[turbochrgdRICE]

Hey LouisB I've got a question for you. (As well as other WS7 II owners) You know how the engine comes with the 8mm restrictor, and from the factory they set the idle set screw. When I was looking at mine I can barely see 1mm because the restrictor was in the way. Do I have to open up the idle a little bit due to the restrictor or should I just leave it as is?


When you did the break in, you did that openning the high end needle 1 full turn out, correct? Then by the time you were done with break in the settings where -somewhat- around the stock settings (since you opened the carb up for break in)?

------
This thread is by far the best!! Pictures galore and a ton of people here to answer my (and others) questions :)

[LouisB]

Leave the idle screw as it is. I think the restrictor only goes part of the way down the carb so there is the same air gap with or without the restrictor.

Mine came at around 3 turns, I opened it up to 4 for the first tank or so but it wasn't getting hot enough so I had to lean it more. I then ran it gently for 3 minutes, then let it cool, and repeated this for 7 tanks (I think) and it began to free up.

[mark123]

can ofna send cars to austalia or do u have to go to the ofna country and buy it yourself there.
:cool:

[mark123]

do any of u have the 9.5 mbx nitro ofna buggy.

[LouisB]

the Hyper 7 is made by Ho Bao and distributed in the US under the name ofna, it's the same with the 9.5 except that it is made by Hong Nor. You should be able to find Ho Bao and Hong Nor distributors in Australia. A lot of on-line shops will send worldwide though.

[RITDR]

I hope this isnt breaking the rules but I have to sell my hyper 7 and wondered if any of you would be interested, or would know of someone who is.
I didnt see a regular "for sale" forum so I thought I would ask you all.
If anyone is interested please e-mail me at ritdr@nktelco.net
This is a good deal on a ready to run, very clean kit.
thanks

[toddzilla]

http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?s=&forumid=226

buy/sell/trade forum...

[RITDR]

Posted there with some extra info.

[MBX4RR]

Does anyone here have a Ofna Hyper .21 engine ? If you do what kind of pipe do you use? I have RB Concepts pipe and it keeps on melting the pullstart.:( It would be cool you could include a part number too.

[toddzilla]

i used the stock pirate pipe with my hyper.


hey how's your CMB doin?

[fezzy]

Sounds like your running the RB Manifold and Pipe or a Inline exhaust, I used to have a RB 086P on my Dominator with the standard Hyper21 manifold, This combo was great and had no problems at all.

[MBX4RR]

thanks for the help guys

[fantom16]

Hey LouisB, what blue springs are those? Where did you get them from?

[LouisB]

Kyosho blues, I got mine from Three 5 (http://www.three5models.co.uk), they don't rust like the black hyper springs, and they're slightly stiffer (once you've adjusted the preload to compensate for their shorter length) :)

[Racin Rev]

I know this is a newbe question but what is a spyder diff? The only place i have ever heard of it is on the hyper 7.

[fezzy]

Spider Diff is a fancy name for Hobaos new designed diff for the H7, No real advantages over the standard diff apart from the fact it has 6 bevel gears over the standard 4 making it more durable, And it looks much more bling bling.

[p.n.e]

i bought a used ofna hyper 7 roller, and i've managed to get it together more or less. i am missing one last part which one aluminum ball socket thingy in the rear arm which holds the hingepin. does anyone have one they can sell or maybe donate? would be greatly appreciated. here is a pic of the part. http://pic7.picturetrail.com/VOL183/1445934/2756360/33572630.jpg

[LouisB]

since your kit was made the rear arms have been revised and there are no longer those toe-in adjusters. Get some new arms (stiffer + stronger) and you won't need the pivot ball things. I think the hubs and hinge-pins are the same, someone correct me if I'm wrong.

[fezzy]

Louis, I've gone and done a terrible thing...... I sold my car :(. I found a great deal on a Crono RS01 that I could not resist so I've got that, Should be coming Monday and I can't wait, Got my WS7-2 here waiting to go in and I'm looking for a new high caliber radio. I wanted to get the new Hitec Aggressor CRX as my mate has just got one and its fantastic but cause its me with my bad luck they have all sold out inc distributor :mad:

I'll keep my head in this thread as the RS01 one stinks :D

[theShark]

has anyone had any problems with the plastic end on the top of the stock shock? is there an all aluminum cap I can get for it or should I just upgrade the shocks? thanks

[fezzy]

I never had any problems with mine and not really anyone I know has. I do believe though they will need replacing if you are often using pliars on them to remove the top of the shock off the ball end, Best way is to just undo the ballened.

[Racin Rev]

So who the heck is Paul Coleman anyway? before ofna started putting his mug on their adds i had never heard of him. Kinwald? yes, Frances? yes, tebo? yes, and lots of others, but not coleman. How does he rate endorcing these products?

[fezzy]

Your right in saying he isn't as big-a-name as the other top drivers you have listed, But he's one of OFNA top drivers and has prooven himself in both MT Racing and 1/8 Rally-X.

[LouisB]

cronos are cool, should be as fast as the Hyper, shame about the ugly body shells!

Nitro races don't seem to get the same publicity as electrics do, but PC has done very well and is probably the most successful OFNA driver.

Racing today, I haven't raced in ages because of my wrist so I hope I runs OK. Better go and sort it out now.

[OldskoolGT]

OFNA's best driver is Josh Wheeler. Paul Coleman is not a big name racer, and is not in the same class of drivers as the big name guys you see in the A Mains of big races. IIRC, Paul Coleman is the president of OFNA. PCR does sound pretty cool, maybe that's why they used his name.

[LouisB]

True, PCR has a nice ring to it.

[Racin Rev]

Ok I remember now Paul Coleman was a one time professional baseball player until he blew out his knee. He also races rc cars. OFNA is useing his baseball name recognition to make him their poster child. So, now people know who he is, but he doesn't seem to have top pro credentials especially since ofna has picked some real top dogs.

[Racin Rev]

here is a question for you mechanical engineers out there. I just picked up a torsen diff, and after looking at it I still have no idea how it works.

I know in principle that it is supposed to direct the power away from the slipping wheel to the one that is not slipping. Just fiddleing with it i can spin the diff at one end and the other side just spins the other way. I have surmised that there needs to be some tension on the slipping side to make it work.

Looking inside it is just a bunch of gears that make no sense to me.

So, how do they work?

[p.n.e]

i'll be dammed if i know but with torsens in the front and center the steering is amazing. just a torsen in the center gives too much push for me.

[PC2K]

Hey Fezzy,

Clear off you traitor!! ;)

btw, if your still interested, the masking tape was ordered on Thursday, can you beleive that i've had to order some flamin 3M tape from the states just to mask up a bodyshell!

As it turns out, the tape was pretty resonably priced (compared to what TowerHobbies wanted for the exact same stuff!).
Ordered 4x 1/8", 3x 1/4" and 2x 1/2"
total order was $22 inc postage i think, which compares to Tower wanting $11 for one roll before postage!
I know exactly what i'd be telling them to kiss!

Just found out i'll be able to get the PCR stuff fairly soon, which means i'll get nice discount on the bits :)
Shame im being tempted more and more by the MBX-5, wont be till after xmas i consider buying, so we should see how the new kit on the block fairs up against the Kanai, Hyper7, TTiger and the Chrono etc

[NewToNitro]

Im sure this is covered somewhere in this thread but what are the differances between the Hyper 7 RTR and the Hyper PBS. I can get the Hyper 7 RTR for about 100less than the PBS. Does the PBS conversion upgrade everything or just the arms and suspension?

[p.n.e]

with the pbs you get a much better engine, a starter box, a spyder centet differential, and a much more attractive shell. i would get the pbs rather than the rtr.

[fezzy]

The PBS is certainly the one to go with out of the two, Based on sheer value!.

[pumpkinfish]

Does anyone know where there are setups posted for this buggy? I just bought one and need to set it up for a long track with dusty conditions. The track is usually dry by the time the 1/8 buggys get out there.

[dagass]

Here's a link to the setup sheet for the PBS:

http://ofna.com/pdf/setup-hyperPBS.pdf

And here's a link for the setups that the Ofna team drivers are using:

http://pub77.ezboard.com/fofnaracingnitrotalkbackfrm13.showMessageRange?top icID=535.topic&start=1&stop=20

If you scroll down the page there are setups for both Ray and Paul Coleman. Even though neither of them are running PBS, they say the settings still apply to the PBS.

[pumpkinfish]

I have the pro. Will it matter and thanks for the links.

[dagass]

The setup sheets that I posted a link to in the Ofna forums are both for the Pro version so you should be good to go.

[adidasink]

Does anyone know the date and price on the release of the PCR PRO???? I am selling my nitro onroad equip to get into 1/8 scale and the Hyper 7 is the path im going.....

I need info...well I need to sell my nitro onroad....he he he

[pumpkinfish]

Can someone help me? I have burned up my center diff twice now! I have completely rebuilt the diff each time and each time the internal gears have been totally smooth when I opened it up. So far, I am breaking in my Rossi SBK01 and have gone half throttle at most. Is there a spacing problem or weakness with the Hyper 7 Pro's 4 gear center diff? I was thinking of getting the 8 gear center diff. Is this good?

[pineapplet]

thread seems kinda silent.. here's my ****** folder with pics of my hyper to liven it up!

http://www.******.net/member/Pineapplet

Recently went through a 'revamp' by adding the long chassis, laydown conversion, and a custom-fabricated 'waller+RB 86' combo . :D Also, a prepainted hyper shell since it costs almost the same as the unpainted one plus a can of paint!!

Only other mods i made prior to these are Kanai II shocks and adding the front torsen in addition to the centre one supplied in the kit...

[p.n.e]

looks awesome! i love the body, one of my favorite prepainteds.
hows the 8 port race treatin ya? and how much were the upgrades?

[pineapplet]

Originally posted by p.n.e
looks awesome! i love the body, one of my favorite prepainteds.
hows the 8 port race treatin ya? and how much were the upgrades?

Thnks! Ya this green/black/yellow one caught my eye right awayat the LHS.. the rest were pretty much ho-hum or downright fugly...

That ain't no 8port my friend... ;) Its actually a refurbished FOUR-port from my very first nitro monster pirate. Its been through a dominator, my brother's hyper, and my original stock hyper which i had before i bought a pro kit. Its on its second P/S (8-port, of course), with the 'race' version heatsink for kicks... Still keeps up with the odd P5 or C5 if i drive right.

altogether i reckon i spent quite little on the hyper compared to my tmaxx or other cars...

For example (this is all in singapore dollars.. about half of the might greenback!)
- Laydown conversion kit (plates, mounts, all the hardware): $27
- front 5mm CNC front tower: $30
- rear CNC tower: $30
- Hyper7L chassis: $80
- frnt torsen: $120
- kanai shocks (whopping expensive): $80 per set ($160!!!!!)

[p.n.e]

whew hate to hand it to you bro but you paid a LOT for that torsen. i got a bunch through sponoring, and selling em second hand new in the package they only went for around 50 bux. i bet if you tried ebay you could have a lot of cash, same with the shocks too!

[pineapplet]

Originally posted by p.n.e
whew hate to hand it to you bro but you paid a LOT for that torsen. i got a bunch through sponoring, and selling em second hand new in the package they only went for around 50 bux. i bet if you tried ebay you could have a lot of cash, same with the shocks too!

You mean to say you were selling second hand torsens at 50 singapore dollars? Thats like 25 US dollars... which is pretty damn cheap...

[Gyro Gearloose]

Good, glad to see someone woke this thread up. Because I just bought the PBS RTR.:D It should be at my door in a few days.

Should I take it apart and locktite everything? Is there anything that I should not locktite? And what type of locktite(color) should be used?
Is the starter box worth anything or is it junk? I'm hoping it's adequate because it'll be all I have.:p

New to nitro cars but not new to nitro(I fly RC aircraft).

[royta]

I'll be recieving my Hyper 7 PBS this coming Wednesday. It is my understanding that the diffs only come with grease in them. It is also my understanding that it doesn't take long before the grease disappears. Therefore, I'd like to put oil in the diffs before the first run.

First of all, do I need to remove all traces of the existing grease, just wipe off as much as I can, or can I just add oil on top of the grease?

Does the oil go in the actual diff itself?
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/ravery/nonweb/rcstuff/images/spider_diff_c.jpg
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/ravery/nonweb/rcstuff/images/spider_diff_f_r.jpg


Or does the oil go between the case and diff?
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/ravery/nonweb/rcstuff/images/diff_case.jpg

OK, now let's get to oil weights. I would like a neutral running buggy, but I think I'd rather err towards a setup for a track with sharp twisting corners than a wide open track with gradual corners. Since I'm a newbie to 1/8 scale buggies (I've run an electric RC10 buggy and a Losi GTX stadium truck), I obviously don't want the buggy too squirrely.

I was thinking 3 - 7 - 1 from front to back, but of course I'm certainly not an expert, so I would like your opinions on the best starting setup.

Thanks for the help.

Roy

[AreCee]

Originally posted by Gyro Gearloose
Good, glad to see someone woke this thread up. Because I just bought the PBS RTR.:D It should be at my door in a few days.

Should I take it apart and locktite everything? Is there anything that I should not locktite? And what type of locktite(color) should be used?
Is the starter box worth anything or is it junk? I'm hoping it's adequate because it'll be all I have.:p

New to nitro cars but not new to nitro(I fly RC aircraft). Use blue loctite only on metal to metal connections, do not use any loctite of any color on plastic unless you wish to see it crumble.

[AreCee]

Roy,

If the grease disappears then what do you think would happen to the more fluid oils?

Grease is easier to apply and will stay in place much longer than any oil even if the gasket is not there. (As in the Yokomo GT-4). Since you have gaskets and seals on your diffs you can use oil. Take your diffs apart and clean all the grease out and reassemble the diff. Now before closing it up you will fill the diff with the oil until it reaches the spider gear. Close it and your done.

Your choice of 3-7-1 is a good place to start.

[royta]

Originally posted by AreCee
If the grease disappears then what do you think would happen to the more fluid oils?
I'm just going by something I read a while back. You know how these forums can get!

Anyway, it would be in my best interest to tear the diffs down anyway, just to make sure there is enough grease in the first place. I'd hate to burn up the gears up due to lack of lubrication. Since they'll be open, I figured I ought to set it up like the rest of the crowd.

Thanks.

Roy

[pineapplet]

Yup silicon with 3-7-1 sounds good... Basically (from my short experience running touring cars with externally adjustable ball diffs), as long as the front is harder to spin relative to the rear, the car will be less squirrely and easy to pull away nice and straight even when gunning the throttle...

i used to run 5-10-3, but that gave a tad of understeer.

as for grease, just a single line of associated black grease on the face of ring and pinion gears (IE the external gears) is all thats needed... Too much will see lots of grease getting pointless splattered into the bearings and onto the inside of the housings.. yucks.

If you want silicon and greasefree fun though.. Torsens are the way to go!! :D

here's a pic of my hyper from ages and ages ago...

[Gyro Gearloose]

Question: What kind of servo plug does the receiver take that comes with the PBS RTR? I found some 925's but dont know what plug I need. I can't seem to search on these forums?:confused:

TIA

[royta]

Originally posted by pineapplet
as for grease, just a single line of associated black grease on the face of ring and pinion gears (IE the external gears) is all thats needed... Too much will see lots of grease getting pointless splattered into the bearings and onto the inside of the housings.. yucks.

When you say the ring gear (external gears) you are referring to the gear that is visible on the outside of the front/rear diff in my second picture, right? The first picture is the center diff and shouldn't need any grease, should it?

This is so crazy! I actually set up the diff on my Jeep Cherokee a few years back, but these 1/8 scale buggies, they have diffs inside of diffs.

Thanks.

Roy

[Gyro Gearloose]

Nevermind about the servo question, I just bought a JR XS-3 Synthesized FM radio, couldn't pass it up.:D
The MG steering servo that comes with it will have to do for a while.

[p.n.e]

acutally i find it is better to run the pinion/ring gears dry, because over time they will collect grit and dirt wearing out the gears faster. if you look at the clutchbell and spur they run fine with no lube.

you should still lube torsens, i use molybednum (sp) grease. it doesnt change consistency when heated up, which is important because a torsen sees a lot of action. i sold the torsens for about 50-60 canadian which is around 30 us. check around on ebay, you'll see they go for pretty darn cheap.

[pineapplet]

Originally posted by royta
When you say the ring gear (external gears) you are referring to the gear that is visible on the outside of the front/rear diff in my second picture, right? The first picture is the center diff and shouldn't need any grease, should it?

This is so crazy! I actually set up the diff on my Jeep Cherokee a few years back, but these 1/8 scale buggies, they have diffs inside of diffs.

Thanks.

Roy

yup yup... the frnt and rear ring gears.. NOT the spur on the centre diff... In fact, wat p.n.e. says makes good sense too... i've run the ring and pinions dry before (basically because i forget to put any grease after frequent rebuilds and i'm too lazy to strip the car again :rolleyes: ) 1/8 buggies are actually the simplest of the lot... now those nasty little three-belt nitro tourers with limited slip diffs and pulleys up the yinyang.. yeesh... :confused:

30 US sounds really good.... hmm.. but shipping from North america would kill me anyway... heh.. It'll just add up to the same as wat i pay here for brand new diffs... (about 60 US).

As for lubricating the torsen, i bought a bit of the so-called 'torsen grease' from the hobao factory, took one whiff (no tasting mind you) and realised it was just plain 'ol automotive grease... grrr ... basically anything thats used in applications where theres lots of heat will do i guess...

[p.n.e]

a front torsen is a good investment tho, a front and center work much much better than a center alone. my h7 pushed like crazy through the corners with just the center torsen.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Still waiting for my buggy to arrive, been amassing my stuff. Think I'm set.:p

[Gyro Gearloose]

A little paranoid about the engine starting difficulties I've been reading about, hope it's not a problem here, I don't know if mine will have the pull start.:(

[NewToNitro]

Hey i just got a used hyper PBS and im looking for some decent servos i can race with. Do you think the Hitec 5625 for steering and the Hitec 625 for throttle/brake would be ok? The one my LHS recomends is 90bucks and is only .8 seconds faster then the 5625. I know every little bit helps in racing but im only at a club level and racing maybe once or twice a month.

[Gyro Gearloose]

I would think you'd be able to get by alright, especially if you're using a 5 cell receiver pack, that extra cell powers and speeds that servo up considerably. It's way better than the servos the PBS comes with anyways, even if you use a 4 cell pack.

[AreCee]

Originally posted by NewToNitro
Hey i just got a used hyper PBS and im looking for some decent servos i can race with. Do you think the Hitec 5625 for steering and the Hitec 625 for throttle/brake would be ok? The one my LHS recomends is 90bucks and is only .8 seconds faster then the 5625. I know every little bit helps in racing but im only at a club level and racing maybe once or twice a month. I think that the servo your LHS is suggesting is the Hitec 5925 digital which has a transit speed of .08 sec and torque of 127 oz @ 6V. This is a very good servo for steering your buggy. I have one in my 9.5Pro. The ones your looking at are good for the throttle, they are similar except the 5625 is digital both are decent but a little too weak to handle the steering of a 1/8 scale buggy on a race course. Rule of thumb is that you go 100 oz or more with a transit speed of .15 sec or less for steering.

[NewToNitro]

Originally posted by AreCee
the 5625 is digital both are decent but a little too weak to handle the steering of a 1/8 scale buggy on a race course. Rule of thumb is that you go 100 oz or more with a transit speed of .15 sec or less for steering.

5625
Speed: 0.14 sec
Torque: 130.53 oz
That has more torque than the 5925 its just .6 slower :confused:

[AreCee]

Cool.

I was thinking of the 625's 94oz. & .14sec@6V.

The main difference is a cored (5625) vs. coreless motor (5925).

[NewToNitro]

the 5925 is just too much for me right now. I can get the 625 and 5625 for the price of one 5925. You think the 625 and 5625 will be ok though?

[AreCee]

If you're asking for my opinion I'd say to get the Futaba 9451 digital servo for steering and the JR Z590M for throttle. I do like my Hitec 5925 but I have had very bad results with the 6xx series (motor burned out, transistors fell off the board, gears stripped). Hitec is great and sent me a new servo each time but the new one kept failing. It was used on the throttle of my XXX-NT. I switched to the Futaba and have no problems since. I had those JR Z590Ms in my NTC3 and they worked great all season for both steering and throttle.

Futaba 9451 $79.99, JR Z590M $39.99.

[pineapplet]

had some good clean fun on the track this weekend..

duking it out with 2 kanais and an MBX5 in the pic here.. my car's in the centre !

[p.n.e]

looking fast!

[Racin Rev]

lol, looks like you are in for big trouble if one or the other drivers on the side of you doesn't change course! nice pic though.

[pineapplet]

Thnks guys.. :D Those guys are indeed fast.. the two kanais are running a Nov SBK and Picco G1 respectively.. and the X5 is packing a P5... Me, i'm running a humble (and old!) 8port!!

i did get t-boned once though... (as does everyone once in a while).. managed to freeze out my pipe back into shape though.. :D

[pineapplet]

..

[pineapplet]

eeps.. triple posted... mods pls delete thnks...

[pineapplet]

heh... posing before i got my crimefighters all mucky....

[p.n.e]

what are you guys running in terms of engine and electronics?

i race with a ofna picco comp, bash with a hyper .21. i have an airtronics mx-3 for radio, and airtronics 94358 for steering, 257 for throttle/brake.

[royta]

Please help me with my carb problems. First of all, let me precede this by saying that I am treating one turn of the needle as 360 degrees. This is correct, isn't it?
As delivered from factory:
LSN - 6 out from bottom & 2.5 out from flush with slide
HSN - 4.5 out from bottom

I reset to:
LSN - 6.75 from bottom & 3.5 out from flush with slide
HSN - 5 out from bottom
I proceeded to heat cycle the engine. After the 4th heat cycle (heat to 230F, cool to 90F), I started to drive the car with short blips of the throttle. It was necessary to lean HSN in order to get car to even move.

As I'm driving, and while constantly checking temp, I notice MSN is not flush. It takes 1.5 turns out to get flush. I then turn in to bottom, just so I have a reference point. It went in 1.5 turns. So my first thinking is that MSN was bottomed from factory.

While driving around and leaning HSN and LSN as necessary, during cool down, I find it necessary to bottom HSN and LSN to figure out exactly how much I've leaned. I lost count with my 1/8 turn increments. That's when I notice that MSN is not flush again. After playing with this a bit, it dawns on me that when turning LSN in and out, the MSN will occasionally also turn.

I then use two screwdrivers to get back to factory settings. I bottom both LSN and MSN. While holding LSN steady, I back out MSN until flush. Then, while holding MSN steady, I back out LSN 6.75 turns from bottom which is also 3.5 turns out from flush with slide. I haven't run the car since making these changes. I figured I better ask some people who have experience with this carb first.

I guess I'll need to hold the MSN steady every time I need to change the LSN. Of course, once it's all set perfectly, I won't need to make any more changes.

Thanks for the help.

Roy

I also wanted to add that even with HSN at 2.5 turns out from bottom, engine still seems it is running rich. I started at 5 turns out and car wouldn't even move. The engine would cough and sputter and never pick up RPM's. I kept on leaning out HSN until the engine would pick up speed. Finally at 2.5 turns out, the engine is driveable, but still a tad rich.

[royta]

OK, after removing the LSN, MSN, and HSN w/ seat, it all makes a bit more sense. The MSN isn't really a needle at all. It's actually the orifice the LSN goes into. There are two cross drilled holes in the side of the MSN. First I set the MSN so it is flush with the carb body. Then I screwed it in or out (whatever was closest) until one of the cross drilled holes is centered in the fuel inlet/HSN port. Although it is centered as far as rotation is concerned, it isn't centered as far as in or out is concerned. I'm sure that statement will only make sense to those who have pulled the needles out. In order for it be centered in or out, the MSN would need to be backed out 1/4 to 1/2 turn from flush. How critical is it that it is perfectly centered? Should I leave it at flush, or should I back out the MSN 1/4 to 1/2 turn?

While holding the MSN steady, I backed the LSN out from flush with the slide exactly 3 1/2 turns.

While holding the HSN seat in my hand, I backed out the HSN exactly 2 1/2 turns from the fully seated position.

I then re-installed the HSN w/ seat assembly.

It seems the engine would be extremely lean with the HSN 2 1/2 turns out from fully seated, especially since the instructions state that 5 turns should be used for break-in and 4 1/2 turns should be used for running.

Thanks for the help.

Roy

[pineapplet]

Originally posted by p.n.e
what are you guys running in terms of engine and electronics?

i race with a ofna picco comp, bash with a hyper .21. i have an airtronics mx-3 for radio, and airtronics 94358 for steering, 257 for throttle/brake.

i bash about with a hyper .21 running an OEM 86 and 'waller' adapter... Steering and throttle are both ERG-VBs with an M8. The servos are a real power drain.. the standard rx pack that came with my M8 lasts only about 5 tanks before the steering gets noticeably weak.

I keep a WS7 around but never get round to using it much since we don't have any proper local races... just 10 guys or so every weekend doing laps at our own (very decent) track..

Btw, has anyone ever noticed that the Hyper 7 is heavier than a lot of other buggies? I have two torsens on mine along with the 5mm front tower, which certainly adds a bit of weight... but compared to other cars i run with like Kanais, GS Storm Pros and, lately, that SUPER-light X5, this thing is like a brick! The Mugen in particular seems to benefit greatly from its light weight... able to rocket around corners and stay planted with *much* less set-up and driving input than the hyper (just from my 5 min experience of driving it about). I guess for almost the double the price, its gotta be good for something huh?? :rolleyes:

[Gyro Gearloose]

It came today!:D

I never had a piece of machinery like this, I think I'll stare at it for a while before I tear it down to locktite everything(Maybe even RTFM). I hope the cold weather breaks so I can attempt to start breaking it in this week sometime. It's 20 degrees and spitting snow right now.:p

[Onetrip]

Need to pickup a starter box for a LD3 I just bougt
but I want it to work with a Hyper 7 I'm gonna buy
early next year. Will this box:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=7

work with a Hyper 7? Will it be able to break in/ start up
a new Hyper 7 engine?

[1 Bad STi]

Hey guys, Are any of the OFNA motors good capable of keeping up in racing 1/8 buggies? I am looking for a new motor and would like to get into racing. thanks!

[msuh24]

Originally posted by Gyro Gearloose
Good, glad to see someone woke this thread up. Because I just bought the PBS RTR.:D It should be at my door in a few days.

Should I take it apart and locktite everything? Is there anything that I should not locktite? And what type of locktite(color) should be used?
Is the starter box worth anything or is it junk? I'm hoping it's adequate because it'll be all I have.:p

New to nitro cars but not new to nitro(I fly RC aircraft).

locktite EVERYTHING. yes, the starting box is junk, the steering servos strip away in one week, and the damn rubber piece that holds the pipe together keeps on falling off. i have the pbs and this was my first nitro car. i had some problems with the above mentioned things. oh yeah, also good luck with breaking in that engine. i have a permanent scar on my middle finger from that engine. other than that, its a great starter buggy.

[Gyro Gearloose]

:D I'll locktite everything but plastic and the headbolts on the engine. Got a 'real' radio with a decent steering servo too, so the standard servos/radio will be swapped out before I ever try to run it.

My engine has the pull start also, and I'm fairly experienced with nitro engines so I think I can break this thing in. I bought a 086 pipe and header so I don't think I'll mess with the RTR pipe, I don't know if the header I got with the 086 will fit around the pull start(I haven't received it yet, it's on the way) so I might run the first few tanks with the RTR header/pipe until it's loosened up some. We'll see.

[p.n.e]

Originally posted by Onetrip
Need to pickup a starter box for a LD3 I just bougt
but I want it to work with a Hyper 7 I'm gonna buy
early next year. Will this box:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCUC2&P=7

work with a Hyper 7? Will it be able to break in/ start up
a new Hyper 7 engine?

that box is probably the most powerful on the market, it will have no problem breaking in engines. im pretty sure it will work for 1/10 but you may have to move the wheel to the other slot cut in the lid, which means you cant start both cars with it at the same time.


1 Bad STi

the hyper 8 port or 8 port race are very good engines for racing, they'll hold their own on the track.

[1 Bad STi]

P.N.E. thanks for the input.

[Gyro Gearloose]

No wonder people buy these RTR's and wonder why they fall apart.

I just went through every screw and setscrew, almost all were loose.:p Oh, and mark up one slightly stripped front diff case hole for the top brace.:o I put a drop of CA glue on the threads of that screw and that 'll hold it till I get another diff case(A cheap part fortunately).
I did it reassembling the front after I put the four bearings in the steering linkage, can't stand bushings. :p

So everything is sucked up tight now, I'll try to run the first tank of fuel through it tomorrow.:D

[Gyro Gearloose]

Hmmmm...I see that the front and rear diff cases are identical, cool. :cool:

I don't plan on switching them though, I'll get another case for the front and learn how to tear this thing down and put it back together.:)

I'm more interested in getting a few tanks through this thing and running the diff gears in so I can tear it down for real. ;)

Oh, and could the set-up for the throttle/brakes be any farther off?:rolleyes:

It's right now, though.:)

All I need is to set up a throttle return spring some how, get some graphite for the pivot balls(don't plan on any dirt running at all though, just hoping the engine will run first.:p )

[Gyro Gearloose]

It's been too cold! It's 17 degrees out right now.:p

[Godspeed]

Hi there, can a kyosho 7.5 or other makes of receiver boxes fit on the hyper 7? Prefer putting the batt and receiver together..looks neater.

[vad]

I was wondering the same thing posted on the Ofna forum. If i get info from there, I will post back here. I too would like my batts toward the center of the car.

[Racin Rev]

ttt

[GT]

WOW! It has been so long. Like I have come outta a deep sleep. Time have changed, lets see if I can keep up!

[SixVi6-Camaro]

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/hyper7_05.jpg

My hyper 7 PBS.

[Herpetologist]

Did you dye the wing and rims or did you buy them like that?

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I used good ol' Rit dye for them. they were both white before then.

[vad]

ofna sell black rims

[SixVi6-Camaro]

ofna rims crack too easy though. when I got the hyper 7 from my buddy he had 2 sets of ofna hyper 7 rims and one set of ofna dishes. now all the ofna rims are cracked the H7 PBS rims even have the centers snaped right out fo them. my proline dishes have held up to all kinds of stupid bashing and no cracks. so I picked up another set and dyed them.

[SN VipeR]

Here's my Hyper 7 Pro:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/buggynew1.jpg

Check out the mods I've done "to" it here: http://www.snviper.ch.vu/hp_buggy2.html
And a video of it battling against a Turbo Inferno:
http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/vidbuggy1.wmv

[BOWTIE1]

mice looking hypers camaro and viper here is a pic of my hyper7 i need new body tho ): http://web2.airmail.net/mrbowtie/hyper7.jpg

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

I am currently looking for a hyper 7 RTR roller in good shape, have an excellent RB WS7ll engine to trade for a roller, Engine ha not much fuel, and also comes with an RB pipe and manifold. Had a deal pending, but havent heard from him in a couple days...Email if your interested..... Email (allstarninja@aol.com)

[Herpetologist]

Hypers

[Herpetologist]

Pro

[Herpetologist]

PBS

[Herpetologist]

rtr

[Herpetologist]

Features:
All controlled by an M8
H7 Pro:
OS rzvo1b w/ odonnell head
Hitec digital servos
Ofna/jammin pipe,
pcr parts
H7 pbs:
Hyper 8 port
rd logics pipe
Hitec digital servos
Tons of pcr parts
H7 rtr:
picco/omega sport engine
Hitec 645 mg servos

[Herpetologist]

PBS has some threaded shocks as well. Man, I don't even like to think how much money I spent on these 3.

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

so wanna trade that RTR roller?

[Herpetologist]

Sorry, I was just showing off. Not interested in any offers. I am looking at adding a k2 to the fleet.

[rcharry]

Hi guys, its been a while since ive been on the forum, but i finnally took out my Gs storm pro out and started to work on it then i decided i wanna sell it and buy a hyper 7 pro. I dunno why i jus want a new buggy And i really like the H7 pro! I was wonder if the H7 uses A B blocks? i hate those! I also like the overall look of the buggy even though i really havent had a good look at it. Can some one send me some detailed pics of one to hungryharry87@hotmail.com Thanks. Oh does the buggy seem to handle pretty good.And does the pro kit come with graphite shock towers or what.
Thanks

PS. if any one is intrested in a trade or has one for sale let me know.
thanks

[NewToNitro]

rcharry...have a look at the Hyper PCR Pro version...it looks pretty sweet IMO

[rcharry]

Do you guys know if the shocks on the hyper 7 pro are good or should i stay with kyosho shocks when i get my H7
thanks

[vad]

RC harry,
If you have the k2 or k3 shocks stick with those, if you are talking the stock 7.5 shocks neve hurts to keep them, if you are talking about the 7.5 RTR blue shocks, ditch them..

[prevelige]

Are you guys with H7 pros running the torsen in the center, or is the standard diff working better? I'll try some racing in the spring, and I'd like to save time with trial and error. Thanks

[rcharry]

Cool i got the K2 shocks. Any of you guys have a H7 Pro for sale, i need one soon!

[daveryley]

My Buggy

http://www.maxbashing.com/forum/index.php?act=ST&f=11&t=2938&

[daveryley]

Please remove

Sorry about the double post

[BOWTIE1]

Herpetologist
how do u like that pipe on your pro ????i was thinking about getting 1 of them i like how they look is it a low,mid,high ehd pipe????? thanks

[Herpetologist]

Bowtie1, I love the pipe. It is a low to mid end pipe. It really helps the os engine out.

[rcharry]

Where did you get the pipe and the o'donnell head.

[Herpetologist]

It's called connections. That's all I can say. lol. Kidding, but it really wasn't all that easy getting both of them. You might try Duratrax for the O'donnell head. Get on a waiting list and maybe you can have one too.....in a few months. As far as the pipe goes, I don't know if anyone has them in stock anymore. I have some friends in California who hooked me up with it as soon as it came out. I think you could try eBay but I have no idea whats on there.

[Casey]

I don't think I've ever posted in the Hyper 7 forum. I'm mostly over on the Lightning forum. Anyway, here's my Hyper 7 I've had for a little over a year.

http://www.r c p i c s.net/member/CASEY

http://images.andale.com/f2/107/104/1827656/1072266891190_Hyper_7_Green_a.jpg

O.S.21 RG w/Ofna 063 one-piece pipe

[BOWTIE1]

here is a nother pic of my hyper 7 with a RB WS7 and crazynut head
http://web2.airmail.net/mrbowtie/hyper73.jpg

[royta]

Holy Crap dude. Have you ever heard of resizing your pictures?

[rcharry]

Hey, can you guys give me the main differences between the H7 and the H7 pro. Like is the chassie the same, suspeension, does it come with the spider diff, grapite, what parts are alum on the suspension?
thanks

[SixVi6-Camaro]

the ofna kit matrix will help answer some of your questions.

http://www.ofna.com/matrix.html

[SN VipeR]

Here are a few pictures of my new Hyper body and the big tyres I got for bashing:

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/buggynewfront.jpg

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/buggynewside.jpg

And now with the big tyres I mentioned (Blazer SST tyres and wheels with half-cut T-Maxx foams), to tear up the gravel pit and do some jumping:

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/blazer3.jpg

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/blazer1.jpg

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/blazer2.jpg

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/tractor.jpg

Tractor pull setup. :D

Visit my Site for more pictures and videos.

[Casey]

SN VipeR - That is one nice looking buggy. It's always nice to see a body with an original paint job.:cool:

[royta]

Yeah, that does look nice. It should be easy to follow it on the track too.

[rcharry]

hi guys, i should be a h7 owner real soon. hopefully in like the next 2 weeks. I got a question. im getting a rtr hyper but with better internals. i just wanted to know where i could get PCR parts and CNC parts. Ill let you guys know when i get mine.
laters

[BOWTIE1]

1 more pic of my h7
http://web2.airmail.net/mrbowtie/hyper77.jpg

[SN VipeR]

I made this little brace here out of carbon:

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/brace2.jpg

Do you think this will stiffen up the car or was it just a waste of time?
Sure looks bling-blingy, though. ;)

[LouisB]

Well it can't hurt, and if one of the alum brace screws falls out then you have backup. And it looks sweet :cool:

My hyper's still running fine, the WS7-II is very reliable. It's got so much bottom end that I've put a 15tooth K Factory clutch bell on it to smooth it out a bit even though I'm running on a small track.

[Bignitro]

Hypr 7:D

[royta]

ooh, that's a rough looking picture. .1MP (yes .1, not 1) camera?

[Bignitro]

webcam

[Bignitro]

pic 2

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

wanna know what shock fluid wt you guys are running and what diff wt you use? thanks....

[LouisB]

Normally something like 35wt front 30wt rear, heavier on a smooth track with big jumps, lighter on a rough track with smaller jumps, experiment a bit and see what works for you.

Start with 5K in the front diff, 7K in the centre, 1K or grease in the rear diff. For me it's the best compromise with good on and off power steering.

[BOWTIE1]

ney body on h7 :)
http://web2.airmail.net/mrbowtie/hyper782.jpg

[SN VipeR]

I use 30k differential oil in the rear and 5k infront. This gives me nice oversteer, which I like a lot. Depending on your driving style and preferences you can go for thicker oil infront to have some understeer or in the rear to get oversteer. In the middle I have a torsen, which I maintain with 1k oil.
I use 20wt oil in all my shocks.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Which only goes to show that you'll get 10 different answers from 10 different people about setup on any car or buggy.

The bottom line is that you have to go out and drive it, change things a small amount at a time until you find out how you like your car to 'feel' on the track you race on. What works great for one guy will not work at all for the other guy since no two drivers have the exact same driving style.




http://mars.walagata.com/w/lolagt/girlfighter3.gif

[LosiXXX-NTRacer]

ok next question..... does anyone know if a kyosho wing will fit the hyper series?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Originally posted by LosiXXX-NTRacer
ok next question..... does anyone know if a kyosho wing will fit the hyper series?

It might, maybe, but probably not. I hear the Pro Line wing is nice, and it'll fit any buggy because it has no holes pre drilled in it.



Question for anyone: Brake linkage, it sucks! It keeps catching on the far side of the center diff plate, how do I fix it? Why are there bends in the brake linkage rods? Do I need them bent like that?

I'm all set to go to Leisurehours raceway(Indoor off road track) just outside of Chicago to break this thing in a little, but I don't want to drive a hundred miles; two hour drive to get there only to play around with my brake linkage.


http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Smilies/ewjchomp.gif

[Got Speed]

I'm looking at getting another 1/8 buggy here soon. Hopefully within the next 3 weeks. The Ofna buggys seem to be a good deal. I prefer not to have a RTR but the only kit versions have C-Hub suspensions. I am looking to race and bash. I've already got a radio and would be content with the Hyper 8 Port. But I really don't want the radio and would much prefer building it myself. Is there a Hyper 7 Pro with a pivot ball suspension? Does the h7 pro come with aluminum shock towers or not? Please give me any comments, suggestions, or anything about these buggys.

Thanks

[royta]

Got Speed - Look into the PCR PRO. It comes with both the PBS front end and C-Hub front end. I think it might even come with both versions for the rear end as well.

SN VipeR - I completely disagree with your theory about thicker rear oil giving you oversteer. Understeer, definitely, but not oversteer. A thicker oil will cause the rear diff to lose it's differentiating properties and act more locked. This takes away your ability to corner sharply, and the front end will be more likely to push in the corners. This is understeer.

[Got Speed]

Where can I buy or find a place to get info on the PCR Pro? What are the differences between the PCR and PCR Pro? Thanks

[royta]

http://www.ofna.com ??

[Got Speed]

royta- They don't have the PCR Pro even mentioned except for a notice that says in stock and shipping. The info they do give on the PCR, PBS, Hyper 7, and Pros are very limited. I also don't know the best place to get a PCR Pro from. I looked some but didn't find much.

[royta]

Hmm, try http://www.nitrohouse.com. They're supposedly right next door to OFNA in Laguna Hills. I haven't been there yet though. Also, try http://www.ultimatehobbies.com for the PCR PRO. I went there during my lunch break, and I think they have quite a few of the PCR PRO's. I didn't get a price though. Sorry. I know they do free shipping on orders over $50 though. They're selling the K3 for $619.95, so maybe that might be an indicator of their prices. I buy stuff from them all the time. One thing about the Ultimate Hobbies website; they probably only show one billionth of a percent of what they actually have in the store. It's best to call them. If I'm ordering parts, I mostly get those from http://www.acehardwarehobbies.com or on eBay.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Sigh:confused:

Anyone have a pic of the brake linkage when it's set up right, as long as the front brake linkage doesn't catch on the center plate they work fine, lots of brake, but that weight on the end likes to catch and then I have no brakes(bad).

I guess I'll try to straighten it some to see if I can stop it from doing that.

http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Signs/signwomanstop.gif

[royta]

Yeah, I do. It's the linkage off of an MBX4. This is what Ho Bao (actual maker of the H7) should have done.

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/ravery/nonweb/rcstuff/images/IMG_2427_resized.JPG

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/ravery/nonweb/rcstuff/images/IMG_2428_resized.JPG

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/ravery/nonweb/rcstuff/images/IMG_2430_resized.JPG

http://members.dslextreme.com/users/ravery/nonweb/rcstuff/images/IMG_2432_resized.JPG

[royta]

Oops, sorry about that. I thought those pics were smaller than they are.

[SN VipeR]

Originally posted by royta
SN VipeR - I completely disagree with your theory about thicker rear oil giving you oversteer.

It's not a theory. It's what I experience with my buggy. You might have a different experience but on our track, with my setup, tyres etc., oversteer is what I get with a "locked" rear diff.
I also drive a 1/8th on-road car, which has a solid rear axle, and I've never had understeer problems with it.

I will swap my diffs around though next time on track to try out the difference with the setup I have right now.

PS: I do know what understeer is. :)

[royta]

SN VipeR - I probably need to take whatever works in full scale, and throw it out the window when it comes to RC. I'm used to running rock crawlers and other 4WD's. With a locked rear end, the turning radius increases, which is understeer. The front end is pushing.

I imagine what you're talking about is the rear end sliding out in the corner. You didn't mention anything about your brake setup (bias), so I didn't immedietly think of a slide. I was thinking of more lower speed cornering.

[SN VipeR]

Originally posted by royta
SN VipeR - I probably need to take whatever works in full scale, and throw it out the window when it comes to RC.

... I was thinking of more lower speed cornering.

I wouldn't go that far but because RCs, measured by their scale, travel a lot faster and are lighter than full scale cars and thus a lot is different of course. But not everything. I would say a 1/1 car with a locked rear diff would slide pretty good once it's going fast enough. I could try with our Mercedes G, where I can lock the diffs, but I don't think I will. :)

That's right, because when I go really slow with my 1/8th on-road, it doesn't turn very well at all. Only when it gets faster it virtually slides around tight corners. (watch the video on my site and you'll see)

[SN VipeR]

Here are a few pictures of a snow bashing session we had on and beside our track yesterday:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/buggysnow6.jpg
My Hyper 7 and a friend's Kyosho Turbo Inferno, both equipped with Blazer SST tyres.
http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/buggysnow4.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/buggysnow5.jpg

As you can see the snow was really powder-like at the beginning and the buggy almost drowned, but it froze over later and we were able to do some incredible high-speed chasing and drifting with the occasional collisions here and there. :) Another funny thing was the buggy actually following the tracks it had made earlier and which were frozen now.

[Got Speed]

Well I've got my decisions down to the Hyper 7 Pro and the PCR Pro. I saw that the Hyper 7 Pro had a torsen center diff which is definatly nice. Does it come with all the graphite stuff like in the pics? I'd really prefer the alum. Does the PCR come with a starter box and engine? Which would be a better choice and why?

Also, I read alot of negative stuff on the Ofna board today. Is this stuff I can expect or are they a bunch of people who don't know what they are doing?

Thanks for the help.

[Gyro Gearloose]

A lot of kids over there on that board. The mods are nazi like with attitudes, anything they can't answer(bad parts service etc..) disappears.:rolleyes: If you can get past it you can get some decent info from there, you just need to learn the BSers from the rest. Noob is good, newman's a jerk but he knows his stuff too.

The car kicks!
The ONFA website people suck(The forum), in my opinion.

Most of the good info is right here in this thread.

See here for the make up of the various kits and combos:

http://www.ofna.com/matrix.html






http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Hamster_in_wheel_2.gif

[low10s]

hey fellas, i know this has been beat so i will do it again. i want to get a buggy, mostly to bash(not enough around here to race at moment) anyway can you give me some suggestions. i have a jr radio, so i really dont want a RTR. but i like the violater. i just want something reliable. if you could head me in the right direction. i looked on there sight but i need to hear from some people that know from experience. thanks

[Herpetologist]

My new bodies.

[Herpetologist]

both

[royta]

Doug certainly does nice work.

[Got Speed]

Herpetologist- Those are some nice bodies. :)

[SN VipeR]

Wow, those are amazing! Where can I buy them? :)

[Got Speed]

Well I decided to get the buggy a bit cheaper and get it used and then buy a nice engine for it. So I got a Hyper 7 PBS(heard the PCR servos were casuing probs) with some upgrades on it. Got lots of pics of it. It's in pristine condition. I can't wait. Now I just have to find a good engine for it for about $190.

[royta]

http://www.rcbodz.com

[SN VipeR]

Originally posted by Got Speed
Now I just have to find a good engine for it for about $190.

The Hyper21 8-Port Race is a very good engine. You can find it for 150$-175$. It needs a carb replacement though to be honest, because the stock carb develops play in the high-speed needle pretty quick. It's also easier to tune with a, say, RB or Novarossi carb. You might be able to buy a used carb cheap. Aside from the carb it's a great engine and I can keep up with the 500$ Rossis on the track with it.

[royta]

I've heard you're hit or miss with the conrods though. The journal tolerances aren't as tight as other motors. Oh, the OS 20E carb is THE carb to run on a Hyper 21 engine.

RB now has the 1004-S5. PDL Racing (pdlracing1) on ebay has them for about $220 a piece. This engine is the 5 port version of the S7-II. Yes, it's $30 more than what you're looking for, but it will be an excellent motor.

Heck, an OS RG for $110 is a fantastic motor. I broke one in on Saturday on my H7, and I think it has more top end speed than the Hyper 21 8 Port.

I also have a Top P5 NIB sitting in my work bench cupboard. I'm waiting for when I can actually use that engine. If I used it now, it would actually cause me to be slower on the track than faster. Too much lid time.

[SN VipeR]

Are you talking about the normal 8-Port or 8-Port Race? The Race, as far as I know, is manufactured by Picco and not compairable to other Hyper21s, of which I have also heard a lot of problem stories. I have about 15 litres through my "8PR" yet and no problems. I'll check the conrod though the next time I open it up. Do you know a good shop where I could get replacement parts for that engine?

Why get the RB 1004-S5 for 220, though when you can get a WS7II at www.unlimitedengineering.com for 282$. 90$ over what Got Speed planned but surely one of the best off-road engines on the market.

[royta]

Why get the 5 port? Because it is a 5 port and should solve some of the low end complaints some people have about the 7 port.

The only difference between the 8 Port and 8 Port Race is the crankshaft, case, and head. Same P/S & Rod.

[Got Speed]

How is the RB CE? Is it worth bothering with? What kind of performance differances is there between S5 and S7?

The drivetrain is these buggys is strong enough to take any engine out there isn't it?

I could get an 8 port race but from what I've been hearing a V01B or S7 or 0-1 bp could take it in from the corner any day. Is this true? How about the quality. I don't want to buy an engine that has low level parts with it already(reminds me of the 2.5 I had in my T-Maxx, hehe).

Thanks

[Got Speed]

What are the differences between the Picco 0-1 and 0-1 BP. Are either competition-level engines?

Thanks

[p.n.e]

yes, both are competition level engines. the bp is better suited to offroad and the normal is better for onroad.

[Got Speed]

What are the differences? Piston and sleeve? Crankcase? Would I be able to drop a BP piston and sleeve in?

Thanks

[Racin Rev]

Originally posted by SN VipeR
Are you talking about the normal 8-Port or 8-Port Race? The Race, as far as I know, is manufactured by Picco and not compairable to other Hyper21s, of which I have also heard a lot of problem stories. I have about 15 litres through my "8PR" yet and no problems. I'll check the conrod though the next time I open it up. Do you know a good shop where I could get replacement parts for that engine?


According to the guy at nitrohouse the 8 port and 8 port race are identical (including part numbers) except for the shaft which is heavier for the race.

[Got Speed]

How does the S5 stack up to the S7? Performance wise?

Racin Rev- I find that kind of hard to believe. I guess it's possible but the crank must have some other porting on it. The head is also different.

Thanks

[royta]

I believe the only difference is the P/S. I've heard of people putting the 3 port P/S and the 5 port P/S in the S7, S7-II, WS7, and the WS7-II. They would have a rod for each piston for a quick change out. One motor that you can dial in the powerband for whatever track you're running.

[Got Speed]

So basically it is just a different p/s that gives more low-end and less top-end?

[royta]

There's more to it than just the number of ports, like timing, port placement, etc. But a very reputable engine builder/modder told me, and others, that he has done this. Not many on this board know who I'm talking about, but pro drivers and serious traveling racers know who does this.

[Got Speed]

Yeah, I know that. I mean the only difference between the engines is the piston and sleeve, which gives it more bottom-end power, right?

Thanks

[royta]

Yes, the 1004-S5 will have more bottom end power than the 1004-S7.

[SN VipeR]

What do you guys think about an adjustable clutch? Wouldn't this as well allow you to use the engine's powerband ideally for each track? For example letting a WS7 with a high power band engage later on a tight track to have more low-end grunt. (combined with shorter gearing, of course)
What about lengthening/shortening the exhaust coupler to attune the resonance effect to another powerband? Are a lot of you doing that?

An example of what I'm talking about:

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/options/rmv/speed2/speed2-070.jpg

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/options/rmv/speed2/speed2.html

I know a guy who runs a C5 in his buggy and says that's the only way to use the kind of power the C5 produces.

[dirtdevil]

royta, I don't think you can categorically say that a 5 port RB has more bottom end than a 7 port. Bottom end on these engines is also affected a great deal by clutch set up and pipe/header selection. I will pit our Ws7II against any non modifired 5 port RB out there on both high and low portions of the power band.

SN Viper: excellent points. Also, I haven't seen the Speed 2 clutch system used on buggies in the US.

[royta]

Tuning the clutch does not change the powerband of the engine. It only makes a given powerband more useable for the conditions at hand.

[dirtdevil]

royta: you are absolutely right. What I was trying to say( and I think you probably are trying to say the same thing) is that the Rb 7's have plenty of bottom end but unless you have the correct clutch and pipe combo, you will never be able to use it. I've seen way too many people say that the Rb 7 port is a top end engine and doesn't have any low end torque. once you put the correct length and type of pipe along with the right clutch setup, then it becomes a stump puller as well as a screamer!!

[dirtdevil]

Royta is correct: you can drop a 3 port or 5 port P/s in a 7 port RB. It is a good option if you run on a small or slick track where the horespower of the (W)S7 is just too much. I'd rather just have a OS RG that I could drop right into my buggy for those conditions instead of swapping P/S at the track where there is dirt, etc that might get in your engine.

In fact, if you are a beginner try the RG as your primary engine.

[Got Speed]

Out of the box both on the same pipe the S7 would be a top end engine whereas the S5 would be a bottom end engine right?

I really don't want an RG. I'd like something I can be competeive with. I don't think I'll have a problem with a race engine. I've owned/tuned/worked on duratrax and traxxas engines to Picco and Novarossi engines. This is just my first competition .21.

I found a Sirio .21 Pro Buggy engine(new) that I could afford. Would this be a better choice? Thanks

[royta]

dirtdevil - Yeah, we're both thinking the same thing. :)

Got Speed - Don't underestimate the RG. You can be just as competitive with an RG on a short, technical track, as you could be with a WS7-II. If you're running bigger tracks, than the WS7-II would be great.

I personally have a Hyper 21 8 Port, a P5, and an RG. I haven't even broken the seal on the box of my P5. I'm currently running my RG, and am using the H21 as a backup motor. I won't break out the P5 until I am able to drive with it, or until I start going to tracks like Sun Valley, Pro-Line, or Thunder Alley.

[dirtdevil]

Got Speed:
"I found a Sirio .21 Pro Buggy engine(new) that I could afford. Would this be a better choice? Thanks"

NO

Competitive Race engines

1. OS RG (believe me, I've seen em)
2. RB S7, 5 port, Ws7, WS7II
3. Top P5 (same as Novarossi or Rex P5). I know where you can get one for $230
4. OS VZ-B -expensive and wear out quick

[royta]

dirtdevil - I didn't think it would be like this, but my RG actually has more top end speed than my H21 8 port. I broke it in last Saturday on the street. I haven't run it on a track yet.

I also wanted to point out to people that there is a difference between the RB 1003-S 5 port and the 1004-S5 5 port. The 1004-S5 is a competition engine and has a larger cooling head, and I believe a better rod (or was it crankshaft?). It's brand new and is not on RB's website. You can probably read all about on their forum though.

[dirtdevil]

roy, That'st what I've heard from a couple of friends who have run all type of race engines and got sick of spending mega bucks. They have gone back to the RG and put a Nova head on it and are happy campers. Me, I'll stick with a P5!!

[Got Speed]

P5 for $230!? What would be a better engine. The S5 or the Top P5(exact same engine as the Rex P5?) then? Like I said I really just want the best engine I can get for the money. I know alot of people like the S7(which seems very similar to the S5 except the 5 has more bottom end) but I know the P5 is in top A-Mains all the time too.

Sorry for all the questions, I just don't want to get something I'll be unhappy with.

[dirtdevil]

The Top P5 is the same as the Rex. They are all made by Novarossi and are the same except the color of the cooling head and the sticker on the side of the case. i own it, 2 Rex P5's, a WS7II, and an OS (not an RG). The P5 is a great engine.

[SN VipeR]

Dirtdevil, maybe that's because nobody imports the clutch to you, being a german product. We might just have spotted a market gap which could make us rich. :D

Now here's something a little different, Enjoy!

You don't necessarily have to be sick to visit a doctor. Sometimes it pays off because of another reason:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/xrayhyper4.jpg

Checking the pulse frequently is good for the engine. :D

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/xrayhyper2.jpg

Alright, now comes the hard part (for the buggy). You might guess what's next:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/xrayhyper1.jpg

This is my Hyper 7 from the "inside"!

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/xrayhyper3.jpg

Here you can see a comparison between my Hyper's health and a friend's Turbo Inferno, which is in fact a bit sick. (Spot the bent part!)

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/xrayturbinf1.jpg

I hope you've enjoyed this little insight as much as we did making it!

[Racin Rev]

wow! i didn't realize that that was a two chambered pipe.:p

[Got Speed]

Well I just bought the Novarossi Top P5. I can't wait to get my buggy and put my radio and electronics in.

I know the main things I'm planning to get will be the center and rear universals, f/r alum. chassis braces, and the Hyper 7 torsen center diff. I already have the PCR front, center, and servo plates, alum. servo arms, the PCR front shock tower, and the 7075 alum. bearing steering setup. Other than the things I listed and springs, oil, etc. Is there anything else I should need or that is a weak link(such as pivot balls, turbuckles, etc.)? One last question :p will the stock air filter do the job or are all these other expensive air filters necesary(just breath better or do they filter better)?

Thanks for helping me out with this long list of questions.
When I get everything set up I'll get some pics of it and go race it. hehe

[Gyro Gearloose]

No, just have fun, sounds like you'll be set and then some.:D






P5 for $230!?

Ummm, I'll take one! Got a link?

[Got Speed]

Gyro Gearloose- I was trying to get it from www.affordablenitrotech.com but he is now trying to change the price on me. At first it was $135 now he wants $143. I'll let you know if he sells it to me at $135 like he said.

[gs_storm2003]

I had a quick question. I just got my new hyper 7 pcr in the mail and since it is an rtr model should I take out the screws and put thread lock on them and reinstall them or should they be good to go from the factory:confused:

[Gyro Gearloose]

You'll have to threadlock the metal to metal stuff, engine mounts, exhaust pipe rod at the front of the pipe, assorted setscrews etc... and you'll have to check every nut and bolt and screw into plastic too. My PBS had lots of fasteners that were not as tight as they should be.

[JamminJay]

RTR or no RTR you should always use thread lock... thats just a rule of thumb.

[gs_storm2003]

thanks guys I will get it out of the box now and start thread locking the stuff before it goes through break in and chech everything else I just wasnt sure if it had already been done at the factory. I cant wait to get it out and run it the snow is melting so im hoping for more warm weather

[Gyro Gearloose]

I cant wait to get it out and run it the snow is melting so im hoping for more warm weather

Same here(Outside of Chicago), most of the snow melted off today, might get a chance to start mine and run around the parking lot a little tomorrow maybe. :)

[Got Speed]

Gyro Gearloose- I emailed him back and found he wasn't raising the price. I didn't see the rest of his email at the bottom that said he was charging more for credit carb pay pal payments. After loosing $20 in fees to pay pal trying to pay with cash I just sent him the money. I ended up spending $25 more than what I thought I was getting but I got it. He said that was the last one of the cheap ones.

gs_storm2003- Always check the screws into plastic. Thread lock the screws that go into metal.

[Gyro Gearloose]

It's cool, Got Speed.:)

I'll keep on looking around, I just want to keep my Hyper for a back up and run a decent race engine.

I might just pick up another RB CE and use it, not like I really know what to do with P5 kinda power anyways, yet.

:)

[Got Speed]

Gyro Gearloose- I was looking at the new RB S5 before I got the P5. It is supposed to be based off the S7 with a 5 port sleeve. It is supposed to have mroe bottom end power. pdlracing on ebay is selling them for $225.

[gs_storm2003]

well I am checking evrything on the car it is the safe way I guess and we got 2 inches of snow last night after the warm day so the soonest I can run it is sunday at the indoor track. I have a question about the diffs they have grease in them from the factory right? what do I have to do to them to fill them with diff oil? might be to hard to explain on here I dont know

[Got Speed]

Is the engine that we were talking about? I just bought it and am making sure it is the right one. The box said Top Race Buggy BT 21 P5 Long Stroke. It has a standard backplate, a black head, it says PT 3.5 on the side, it has 5 ports, says top P5 on the cooling head, and says Nova on the carb dust boot. I can get a picture if needed. Is this the correct engine? I'm going to for sure have to set my 1/8 starter box up for this buggy instead of my truck(for break in at least) because this engine has so much compression I can't even turn it over by hand with the cooling head off!

gs_storm2003- If it is like other 1/8 buggy diffs then all you have to do is take the gear off and fill it to the top of the pin.