Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[royta]

Yes, you have the Top P5 brought in by Paris Racing. Oh, you're talking about pinch, not compression.

[dirtdevil]

To start that P5 you will have to
1. have a very good starter box
2. loosen the glo plug
3. warm up the engine with a hair dryer
4. Try to start the engine
5. It will probably turn over once before the piston gets stuck...so, start over with #1!! again and again and again and it will finally loosen up enough to start!!

For the diffs:take them out one at a time. remove the 4 screws that hold the diff together, take all the parts out of the diff, remembering how they came out so that you can put it back together, wipe down every part and the inside of the diff, replace all the parts inside the diff, fill diff to just above where the spindles holding the internal gears cross, put the top of the diff back on, screw the 4 screws back in and your done!!

Check out this website for any questions on assembly of the Hyper 7 http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/car/hobao/hyper7/hyper7build/hyper7index.html

[Got Speed]

royta- Yeah, that's what I meant. It is very tight. I've got the Ofna Pink box(don't remember the number) but it's got the single motor so I should be good. Jason Ashton is running a P5 isn't he?

From what everyone has said this engine should have some mad low end especially coupled with the Ofna 063 pipe.

Thanks again for the helping me pick out a good engine.

[SixVi6-Camaro]

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/hyper7_16.jpg

Under the bod of my H7. Brand spankin new S5 with an RB 86 pipe with its on road PMT tarmac tires. Slowly but surley I'm getting all the PCR stuff for it used from ebay and other sources. Lots of fun but I still can't get this around the track very well. lol.. my JT maxx is faster but the H7 is still a blast to run.

[gs_storm2003]

thanks again for the help guys I just got it broke in and the snow is melted so now I will try my hand at the diffs and then see how many walls I can hit at the track, I am really happy with the car so far it has been pretty user friendly to me

[JamminJay]

Originally posted by gs_storm2003
thanks again for the help guys I just got it broke in and the snow is melted so now I will try my hand at the diffs and then see how many walls I can hit at the track, I am really happy with the car so far it has been pretty user friendly to me



snow melted???? Dont count on it for long bro... its supposed to be like 53 this weekend get some run time in if you can cuz i think they were talking about snow again after that lol. What track do you run at? Dirt burners? If so maybe I'll see you out there sometime. I got a hyper RTR, and a PBS, but neither of them are stock... when I get them finished I'll post pics... BTW, you do know who I am but I just cant tell you at this moment.

[gs_storm2003]

hey I probably dont know who you are I have only been out there twice, I might know a screen name from the other message board but that would be about it. but since you are in my area are you anywhere near redford? I am wanting to know how these guys cut there 1/10 taper pin tires and then put them on there buggy. I was told to talk to kevin but I just dont get out to dirtburners very much the track is small and I cant drive very good for such a tight track so this summer I hope to find a nice outdoor track somewhere in the area

[Gyro Gearloose]

Took your advice/idea and just bought the Mugen throttle/brake linkage kit, royta. Should be here in a few days.

I'm tired of fiddling with the POS stock linkage. :mad:

[royta]

nice work gyro. Page 28 has pics of my setup. I apologize that they are so big.

[Gyro Gearloose]

No, they're good like that, makes it easy to see. I saved them to my hard drive already.:)

[royta]

If you'd like, I can upload the original full resolution photos to my webspace for your downloading pleasure.

[Gyro Gearloose]

No thanks, these fill up my 17" monitor already, they're so close up it's as good as being there in person.:D

[Got Speed]

I finally got my buggy and got almost everything hooked up. I've just got to get a few more things. Do you guys have any problem with there being a little slop in the shock tower where the hinge pin for the upper arm goes in? Anybody intrested in a painted Hot Bodies pre painted body? I want to buy a clear one to paint it.

[Got Speed]

Also can anybody tell me how or post a picture of how you mounted you throttle return spring/s. I tryed finding a good place for about 30 minutes and can't figure out a good way to do it.

Thanks

[Gyro Gearloose]

I'd like to see a good TRS installation pic too.


http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Smilies/smilie_fensterputz.gif

[Gyro Gearloose]

I have a spring running from my throttle servo arm and hooked to the fuel splash guard. Not optimal and I should have something hooked drectly to the carb, but I don't see a good way to do it.


http://img9.photobucket.com/albums/v27/lola_gt/Smilies/gluur.gif

[SixVi6-Camaro]

I drilled a small hole into the head and ran a spring from it to the carb on my landmax 2 (mp7.5 based). I still have to mod my new S5 for this setup on my H7.

Here is a pic of my LM2's return spring from a while ago on a different engine.

http://home.comcast.net/~exsells/lmaxx_38.jpg

[Got Speed]

Gyro Gearloose- On my XXX-NT I've got a return spring from the throttle arm to the rx box which pulls it shut fine. But in case the linkage pops off I have another spring on the carb. It is real loose since it only needs to pull the carb shut. It's worked great for me that way. I'll have to see if I can mount one up on the splash guard.

SixVi6-Camaro- Are you using a coreless servo? I tried putting mine on one of the little loops on case for the header springs(since I dont' use it) but it wasn't enough to pull it shut.

[Got Speed]

Well so far I have put about an hour into trying to get my P5 to start. It is not even trying to start. Nothing at all. I am heating the engine to about 210 degrees with my heat gun and then loosening the glow plug a little more than half a turn. Then I am putting it on the starter box. Once it starts turning I screw the plug back down and put the glow ignitor on. Like I said it isn't even trying to start. If I open the throttle and plug the exhuast to prime it the whole carb fills up with fuel and it starts spraying out. But the combustion chamber does not seem flooded. The glow plug is not filled with fuel, there is no fuel coming out the pipe, and when I take the plug out fuel does not spray out the plug hole. I tried taking the cap off a glow plug and putting a little fuel in the glow plug hole. I don't know how much actually got in there but it didn't help either. I may try putting some more in at least if it is flooded I know there isn't a lack of fuel if it trys to start. I put a hot plug in instead of the cold one after a while to see if that made any difference but it didn't. I checked the back plate, carb, and head bolts but they were all tight. I am totally at a loss here.

Thanks

[Racin Rev]

Sounds like you have a manufacturing imperfection. I would suggest pulling the engine completely apart and making sure that everything looks right. there might be flashing on the rod or a piece of plastic blocking the intake. something stupid that isn't supposed to be there.

[dirtdevil]

Sounds like one of 2 things
1. are your glow plug and the ignitor OK?? does it glow?? Try it out of the engine.
2. If the glow plug and ignitor are good, put the glow ignitor on and try to start it before screwing the plug all the way back in.

3. don't put your finger over the stinger to prime the engine. Your engine turning over will draw the fuel into the engine.

4. If it still doesn't start, while the engine is turning over, SLOWLY richen the low speed needle until it starts. If it still doesn't start, slowly lean it (1-2 turns max either direction 1 hour at the time.

[Got Speed]

Racin Rev- I think that is all that I can do at this point.

dirtdevil- I've had it from flooded to no fuel and everywhere in between. A couple different plugs in different temp ranges all good plugs and a good ignitor. Different fuel lines. Plug screwed in and out. I'm really at a loss as what to do. I think I'm going to take it apart and see if there is anything in there.

[pinky]

ya know, more times than not, (I know this sounds silly but) whenever I've seen an engine doing what you are discribing it's usually be becasue the starter box is spinning backwards. Just for grins, check the rotation of you starter wheel. As for the TRS, what most have found that works best is to just put a thick rubber band or a proper size O-ring around the trottle arm and the base of the airfilter elbow where above the ziptie.

[pinky]

I think I have almost enough of these for a heat race.:D

[Got Speed]

pinky- LOL I've done that before. I felt like such an idiot. :p Just to make sure though, I know it turns counter clockwise but that is when you are looking at the front of the engine correct? I'll have to give the rubber band a try. After trying to start this engine I am going to need a new wheel for my starter box.

[pinky]

Yup, when looking at the clutch end, counter clockwise.

[Got Speed]

That's what I thought, just making sure though. I'm going to go out and try it some more.

[HYPERME]

i have a new hyper 7 pbs pcr i want to know if i can dye the battery and receiver covers and tub chassis from grey to black or will the dye only work on white or special dyable nylon? also whats the pipe to have for racing the ofna 063 or the 086? thanks in advance

[SN VipeR]

Hey Pinky, nice to see you 'round. Read all about my buggy (which you've helped me a great deal with, remember?) and see a video on my website!
(There are some cool X-Ray pics two pages back in this thread which might interest you, too.)

[HYPERME]

i just went and dyed them cause i couldnt wait for a reply and wow it worked great!!! for those of u who dont know u can get rit dye in the laundry section at wall mart in many colors and boil your parts for 20 minutes. anyways i still need to know about the pipes so please help

[Got Speed]

HYPERME- Nice, I'm looking to get some and dye my wing and wheels black. The 063 has more bottom end and the 086 more on top.

I finally got my engine started. If you want to what was wrong read in the Nitro forum. lol too long to retype.

[JamminJay]

Got Speed......

Are you refering to the stock wing and wheels? If i'm not mistaken I think you can get those in black, I know you can get the dish wheels in black, and I'm relatively sure you can the wing too... If i'm wrong please dont flame me too bad:D I will do a search and try to locate them... but I do know XTM sells the black dishes for sure 100%

[Got Speed]

Sexy Savage SS- Yeah the stock wheels and wing. I think I'm going to die these anyway. They will go good with my new body.

[SN VipeR]

I'd be careful with having the car too dark. You can react much faster and drive more accurate if you can see the car's position and especially the wheels more clearly I think.

[Got Speed]

I decided to dye my wing only and it looks pretty good, I think. I didn't think about it being harder to see. Good thing I didn't dye my white dish wheels too. The wheels being white should look alot better against the fairly dark body. I think it will off-set the other colors much better. What body do you guys prefer. I was looking at getting a PL body but I'll get something else if there are better bodys. It's going to be metalic green and silver flames flaming back into outlaw black with silver and black checkerboard in the back. I may throw some puprle in there too. :)

[Racin Rev]

does anyone know if any of the pro-line bodies will fit the hyper 7? the idea of paying 30+ for a weak, badly cut body, when I can have one of thicker material for less gets under my skin.

[Got Speed]

I was wondering the same thing /\ /\ /\ /\ /\
I need a clear body and I dont' want to give Ofna $30 for an ok looking body that isn't very thick. I've heard that other Pro Line bodys can be made to fit but are any a direct fit(other than body mount holes I don't want to cut parts of the body out to clear parts of the buggy)

[SN VipeR]

I found this here in a UK-based shop:

http://www.topoptions.com/new/prodimages/s_00000000425-1.jpg

"This body is a replica of the Hyper 7 shell.
Its made of 1.5mm lexan and is damned near indestructable.
The trade off is an extra 25grams.Who cares.
If its going to last half a seasons racing then, hurray"

http://www.topoptions.com/new/new_index.php?productid=00000000425

By the way, I buy my normal shells off k_p_rc (ebay seller) for ~21$.

[Got Speed]

SN VipeR- Too bad that is in the UK. It would probably cost a lot to ship it. I didn't think k_p_rc sold much Hyper 7 stuff. I've bought several things from him and looked the other day but didn't go through all his pages. I'll have to look again because I need to get one to paint my own.

BTW: If anybody wants a Hot Bodies pre painted body that has 1 run on it I'm selling mine because I want a clear one. hehe I also have one of those PBS/PCR RTR starter boxes I don't want that I'm trying to sell if anybody is intrested.

[Anemic_SluG]

OK I am just going through the break in process with my new PCR Hyper 7 so I am finally out of the AE boards for now and into the Ofna ones. When I tighten the front wheels down the right front one sticks, so I reversed the rims and it still sticks. All the other 3 wheels are spinning but not that one. When I loosen the nut that holds the wheel it helps and I can rotate the front diff only. I have compared the 2 sides and cannot find anything missing or wrong. If anyone has any ideas let me know.

Thanks

[SN VipeR]

Got Speed, if you ask them nicely, they'll sell anything Hyper to you for a very good price.

[Got Speed]

SN VipeR- Thanks

[Got Speed]

I've got a problem with my front diff. When I turn it forward or backward it binds a little in one spot every time. I took the front diff out and inspected the gears and the case very carefully. I could not find anything wrong with either. I checked it without the center driveshaft to make sure it was the front diff. I also took out the front driveshafts to make sure it wan't anything other than the diff. It only does it once I tighten everything up. I spent several hours taking the diff apart and putting it back together the other day trying to find what was wrong but I can't figure it out. Has this happened to anyone else? If so what did you do about it?

Thanks

[royta]

I've also had this problem. You are having inteference between the pinion gear and the main diff gear. It is very easy to remedy.

Take your diff case apart (not the diff itself) and lightly tap the pinion from the inside. What you are trying to do is make sure the inner pinion bearing is fully seated in the case. You also need to make sure the outdrive bearing on the diff gear side is fully seated in the case. IIRC, if you are looking at the driveshaft side of the case, the diff gear should be on the left side. You need to lightly tap on the opposite side outdrive. So, if in fact the diff gear is on the left, than tap on the right side outdrive. Do not have the case tightened up during this process. There should be a .5mm to 1.0mm gap between the case halves when you do this. What you are trying to do is physically move the diff gear away from the pinion gear. This will eliminate the binding when you come to the high spot.

Be smart about it and don't beat it to death with your hammer. Small, light taps are all that is necessary.

[Got Speed]

I did check that and reposition the bearings. That didn't seem to help though. Now that I have put the wheels back on it seems to have gone away. :confused: There had to be something that just wasn't seated or something. It seems to have gone away though now. Now that my P5 is pretty much broken in I decided to grab full throttle from a stop. :eek: This thing has some serious power especially coupled to the Ofna 063 pipe. The tires looked like they exploded they ballooned so big and fast. lol I can't wait to get it on the track friday.

[royta]

I don't think the wheels have anything to do with it. The only way to check it is with the axles removed from the outdrives. If there are any axles connected, it will only mask the problem. Hopefully, the problem is in fact gone.

[Got Speed]

Well, I took it apart again and then put it back. It seems to have gone away. I'm sure everything was seated so it must have been something I missed. Either way it is gone now. Is the stock braces and front upper hinge pin holder aluminum or plastic. Mine are aluminum but I want to know if they are stock parts or not?

Thanks

[PC2K]

Hey Guys,

I've decided i am gonna go ahead and get a Hyper7, ive been floating between the H7 and the MBX5, and then Xray revealed what i hoped they would, that they'd be making the XB8 buggy, so i plan on buying one of them... when it comes out (probably around August/September) but i cant wait that long, so im gonna get a Hyper7 to tie me over and to get used to racing at this scale having done nothing but Electric Touring and a couple of runs with my B4 Buggy.
Im waiting for a H7 PCR (RTR vers) to come into stock and hopefully i'll be tearing up the neighbourhood pretty soon :D

I've got my servos sorted (KO2144 and Air 358) and an Rx unopened that ive had for a few months, and i was just wondering if i should order some other bits n peices at the same time as the kit??

I'll be getting some street suitable tires, just so i can get used to it without killing a set of grass spikes, and a set of grass spike, something like the proline crime fighters.

Is there any spares i should buy, or bits n peice i should upgrade to rather than mess with the kit standard item?
Its not a long term buggy, but i still dont want to have niggly problems when a bit of money could sort it out now (things like UJs etc).

I've also contacted Doug @ Bodz who's does some great shells, and he's going to knock up a couple of belters for me, based on other designs he's done. He's a top bloke!

Thoughts & Pointers etc all more than welcome,

PaulC2K

[PC2K]

oh, a quick one:
Ive heard the starter boxes dont last long sometimes when running the engine in at first, is there something i can do to avoid this, or replacement parts to restore it back to full health etc rather than have a semi-competent starter box.
reading back a few minutes ago i spotted someone mentioning the Starter Belt or Wheel, "OFN 10259 RUBBER STARTER WHEEL WITH HUB" that wouldnt be the item in question would it? just passing it in the catalog and wondered if that would be the item needing replacing (athough i'd have thought the starter motor would be the one taking the main weight)

As i say above, anything worth pointing out would save me a few $$$ to get it all now rather than mess with shipping more items later on

Thanx,

PC2K

[Racin Rev]

PC2K,
If i were you i would look at some factors:

which will be the easiest to get parts for. if your local hs doesn't carry some of the basic parts you will either have to have a backlog of parts in your box or mail order on a regular basis.

are there going to be parts at your mail order supplier. new items are often difficult to get parts for, they become backordered and if only a few sources carry them it can be very frustrating. The ofna has distribution among several major players, GS all comes through Horizon, and I don't know anything about support for x-ray, except that they are imported from abroad. perhaps find a on-road guy with an x ray and find out from him what the parts situation is.

a third is reputation. The H7 is known. GS makes ok cars and could stand to improve (and maybe has). X-ray has an excellent rep for touring cars but has never done an off road car before. Either it will be perfect from the start or will have major teething problems, depending on how extensively they were tested, and whether they were tested for an American market. Bear in mind that off road in europe is mostly flat (sometimes on grass). jumps, tabletops, moguls are mostly an american convension. US developed cars (ofna gs) would bear this in mind in development x ray may not (then again, they may).

[SN VipeR]

Got Speed, I had that same problem and it turned out that one of the pins of the CVDs had come loose and scraped the interior of the aluminium knuckle.

Rev, are Ofna cars (most made by Hong-Nor or HoBao in Taiwan) really developed in the US?

[PC2K]

RR:
Im actually in the UK, and Hobao as they are over here are quite good for H7 spares, and my LHS does a good stock of nitro bit n peices too, so its not such a concern.

The reason for wanting to know about weaknesses in advance was because i often order from the states from mates who work in the industry and it would mean i can get a couple of bits at near trade prices and have them sent over an save me some money from getting them locally. I think its the hop-ups and things like this which are of major benifit, not so much spare arms or bits n bobs.

Its funny you mention trouble getting spares for certain cars, Xray are useless for spares here, the local distributer just doesnt seem to have the funds to stock all the items, and there can often be a back-log of bits.
I ordered a few unimportant spares, some teamwear, couple of pinions and a couple of decal sets.
A week later, the order arrived and only contained the pinions and decals! granted the other items were 3 bumper items, springs, diffs and a pair of belts, not quite key items that break easily, but not really obscure items, those are items which do wear/break over time.

With the XB8 though, i was having a discussion with someone who used to pop into this forum who's now moved to 1:8 MTs and got a Savage, who also made the point of Off-road being a completely different area to On-road, but i think the Savage itself is a good example of what can be done on a first attempt.
HPI went to the drawing boards, created the Savage, and nobody cares about the Maxx any more, and AE have jumped onto the bandwagon and created there version too.
Xray are known, from there touring cars, to be craftsmen of the highest quality, and the build of the cars are far superior to anything else on the market in that scale, so if they can turn heads for 1:10 i see no reason why they couldnt at least match something of the same quality of Mugen and Kyosho, experience is important, and it helps to have made mistakes to be able to learn from them. At the very least, it'll be an awesome buggy, its the performance which may take some time, and with Xray also one of the best companies for creating what they feel they need to create to improve on the car/buggy then any issues people have should be easy to iron out. The original T1 is no different to the T1 Freedom of Choice, or Factory Team, or even the 12th scale version, almost everything is interchangeable, but look how many advances have arrived, theres something for everyone.
Still, at the end of the day, only time will tell how good it is, no ammount of speculation will answer questions.

I also made a decision last night, rather than wait for the PCR RTR to come in stock, ive gone with the PCR Pro, and ordered the bits i need extra. It'll cost about $200 more (engine, pipe, starter) but it'd be worth every penny, especailly when ive got the 8port Race engine as well as a decent starter box, pipe, failsafe etc with it all.
Just need to wait a couple of weeks for it to be sent and get here, hopefully have it here for April, should keep me occupied building it anyway :)

[Racin Rev]

I wouldn't swear it to be the Gospel truth but r/c car mag states that the cars are developed by ofna here and then manufactured by ho bao or hong nor (sp?) in Korea.

[X-Tee Ha !]

PCR & PBS Differences ?

I'm looking at a PBS RTR or a PCR RTR, are there any fundamental differences between them ? I think the PCR is a "laydown servo" chassis but according to the Ofna PCR Spec, the Centre CNC 8 Spider Diff is not listed....? Was this removed for the PCR ? It's mentioned for the older PBS version.

Is there a spec comparison anywhere, like there is for the Savage 21 to 25 models on the HPI site, or does anyone kindly have a list of the differences please :D It's all very confusing :D

Thanks

[X-Tee Ha !]

Oh, also, if anyone has bought an RTR could you please tell me what the radio gear is ? And has the RTR got a high torque steering servo ?

[PC2K]

The original RTR kit had the Airtronics Blazer 27AM (just been asking on the OFNA forum for a mate who wants one) and the PCR comes with a Futaba 3xx cant remember the name, like 3XJ or something. not sure what the PBS would be, which sits inbetween those 2 models.

You want the OFNA kit Matrix, which gives the basic differences between the kits, go back a page or 2 and the link is on there, its something like www.Ofna.com/matrix.html but i could be wrong

[PC2K]

Just had another nosey at the Kit matrix, and spotted something bizarre.

Hyper7 Pro - Starter: -
PCR Pro kit - Starter: S Box

They suggest there that the PCR Pro kit comes with a Starter box, if mine doesnt come with one, cos that does seem odd, then i'll have to give them an email and see what can be done ;)

[X-Tee Ha !]

Cheers PC2K. Sounds like yours should come with a starter box doesn't it, as the normal Pro just has a - . Lets hope they don't try and wriggle out and say it means to USE a starter box :mad:

Any info as to whether the PCR RTR comes with a Hi Torq steering servo would be appreciated from anyone.

Thanks

[Gyro Gearloose]

I don't think any of the OFNA RTR buggies come with a high torque steering servo, you might as well count on purchasing one seperately.

I bought the PBS RTR, it came with the Futaba radio and standard servos.

[PC2K]

I would have thought that the servos wouldnt be quite as bad as one's you get with an electric on-road car, but i know people have said that the servos included wont last very long.
I suspect that if your just bashing on a big plot of land, then you may be ok for a month or two, but under pressure the servo will be stripped, and racing them with anything short of a decent servo would be a no-no, an instant way of killing the servos.

Definately worth an upgrade, OFNA.com has a servo list which advises what you should be using, the page URL is incorrect, and i've made this known on there forum in what i felt was the best suited place for it, and 48hrs later.... they deleted the thread!!
Pathetic isnt it, they're the ones who cant write html and get a simple link right, yet when you try and help, they, or there moderator helpers try to cover-up the fact and leave the site as it is.

anyway, the link you want is www.ofna.com/servos.html and not Servos.html, seems some people think that just cos Windows like it, Linux servers do too.

Waaahaaaay
just thought i'd check the url was correct, and it wasnt... although they've corrected the problem and named the page Servo.html which previously was a lower case 's' muppets, they'll never learn will they!

so its: http://www.ofna.com/Servo.html

[Got Speed]

I think I found what the clicking was. I found it had gone away but when I went out to the track the front diff wasn't getting much power. So I eliminated all the possibilities untill I found it was the main outdrive's setscrew came loose and the flat spot on the pinion was catching the set screw every time.

[H-Trainer]

Hi there,

have you seen TWF8's Review Section? It's at www.BuggyReviews.tk

There, all drivers can share their experience about 1/8 buggy products: Cars, engines, servos etc. There already is good information about some popular products, e.g. the WS7 II.

Every honest review is highly appreciated. :)

- - - - - - -

You may or may not have noticed that the Hyper 7 buggies sold by Ofna, HoBao and Graupner do not have to be identical and may come with different equipment.

[Gyro Gearloose]

You may or may not have noticed that the Hyper 7 buggies sold by Ofna, HoBao and Graupner do not have to be identical and may come with different equipment.

Every RTR H7 buggy that's sold in the U.S. comes with standard servos. I'd have heard about it if any had come with high torque steering servos, they do not.

I sometimes forget that the web is international, any kind of radio equipment might be sold with them in other countries.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks Gyro, pretty sure all the Ofna versions would come with the Futaba set, maybe the HoBao would vary though.

Thanks for the info everyone ! :D

[Racin Rev]

Originally posted by Racin Rev
does anyone know if any of the pro-line bodies will fit the hyper 7? the idea of paying 30+ for a weak, badly cut body, when I can have one of thicker material for less gets under my skin.

got speed and I are still wondering the answer to this. any ideas?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Yes, the Pro-Line Crowd Pleaser body for the Kyosho fits fine I hear. I've heard of guys using the Crowd Pleaser for the MugenMX5 because it's a little roomier, depends if you want a close fit or a little more clearance.

Do a search at the OFNA forums, there's a few guys that use that body.

[Got Speed]

Thanks, I'll have to get one of those.

[PC2K]

Yer,
I've also heard that the 7.5 and MBX5 shells made by Proline fit the buggy, im just masking up a copycat H7 shell made in the UK, someone posted the link to the shell when the question was originally asked, shame you cant get something similar, for the price, i get 2 shells for less than 1 official shell, no masking or decals, but who cares!
There also a little thicker, so should last pretty long too.

I'll get some pics when its finished, still waiting for my PCR Pro kit to be sent, should be within the next 24hrs and then 3-5 working days to get here, and about the same to build it :(
never touched a nitro engine in my life, and only took a Serpant tourer round a track for a couple of seconds, so im hoping i dont kill my 8PR engine :)

Heres a daft question, but being new to it all, dont go laughing.
Engine cooler heads, can i change them easily enough, as lame as it sounds i'd like to get either an Orange or Blue heatsink, team colours etc, Orange is a must really, but i'd settle for blue otherwise.
I believe the number of layers/fins is important (for obvious reasons) but is there anything else i should look for.
Any ideas for companies making heads in those colours for a .21??

Chears

[Got Speed]

Yer,
I've also heard that the 7.5 and MBX5 shells made by Proline fit the buggy, im just masking up a copycat H7 shell made in the UK, someone posted the link to the shell when the question was originally asked, shame you cant get something similar, for the price, i get 2 shells for less than 1 official shell, no masking or decals, but who cares!
There also a little thicker, so should last pretty long too.

I'll get some pics when its finished, still waiting for my PCR Pro kit to be sent, should be within the next 24hrs and then 3-5 working days to get here, and about the same to build it :(
never touched a nitro engine in my life, and only took a Serpant tourer round a track for a couple of seconds, so im hoping i dont kill my 8PR engine :)

Heres a daft question, but being new to it all, dont go laughing.
Engine cooler heads, can i change them easily enough, as lame as it sounds i'd like to get either an Orange or Blue heatsink, team colours etc, Orange is a must really, but i'd settle for blue otherwise.
I believe the number of layers/fins is important (for obvious reasons) but is there anything else i should look for.
Any ideas for companies making heads in those colours for a .21??

Chears

You can't just get a head for a .21 you have to get one made for your engine because most of them are a bit different. Sorry I can't help you with who makes them(don't own an 8p) but make sure you get a head for the Hyper 8 Port. Also dont' get a head with more fins than stock if it is running cool already. If it's running 250 -260 I might get a head then but otherwise leave it alone or just get a different head the same size/material.

[Casey]

PC2K - Crazy Nut Racing makes cooling heads for the Hyper 21 and are available in ORANGE.

http://www.crazynutracing.com/product_info.php?cPath=30&products_id=71

Here it is shown in purple.
http://www.crazynutracing.com/images/new%20site%20020.jpg

[SN VipeR]

Here's a new Video featuring my Hyper:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/vidjammin.jpg (http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/vidjammin.wmv)
(Right-click on picture, then "save target as")

Enjoy!

[PC2K]

Casey: Chears for pointing out that for me, is $80 about right for a replacement head, cos i had no idea they'd be that much. Maybe if i need to replace mine at some point it could be worthwhile, till then, purple isnt that bad!! :)


Here's pics of the shell i did over Wednesday and Thursday, could have done with some sunlight to boost the colour cos there not as strong in the pic as they are in person.

http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/body1/pic1.jpg
http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/body1/pic2.jpg
http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/body1/pic3.jpg
http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/body1/pic4.jpg

Paints used (all by Spaz Stix - www.Spaz-Stix.com)
Anodized Hard Metals - Yellow, Orange, Candy Apple Red and Purple
Liquid Metal Chrome
Black Backer
also user Spaz Stix Pre-Prep which is basically a clear 'paint' which bonds with the lexan better than paint normally would, and gives the paint something better to bite into, as your spraying onto a laquer base, rather than lexan, giving the paintjob an even better chance of staying on your shell instead of on the floor.

I love the strength and depth of the colours, and having the chrome to back them means that its a really colourful result.

I'll get some better pics once i have received the buggy and built it up, for now you'll have to settle for just the shell :)

PaulC2K

[SN VipeR]

Nice shell Paul.
You're sponsered by those spastics, aren't you? ;)

Here are a few pics of my second Hyper which I've just finished and which I'll only be using on the track:

Some of the features:
RB C5 engine with Nova head
RB Filter and 063 inline pipe
Reckward Speed II Clutch (adjustable from the outside)
PCR Chassis and laydown radio tray

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/racebuggy1.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/racebuggy2.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/racebuggy3.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/racebuggy4.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/racebuggy5.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/racebuggy6.jpg

[PC2K]

Hey SNV,

Not exactly sponsered by them, im the European dealer for them though, but i get nothing from them other than the sale of the paints really.

Where can i get hold of some of those Shock 'socks'?? Will most modelshops carry them, because i've gotta nip down to mine at the end of the week and get some Fuel, glow starter and possibly some other bits n peices too. I know how much muck manages to get around the shocks of my Touring car, which only races indoors, so i dread to imagine the state of them around grass tracks etc!

Also, Receiver packs, im a little unsure what the deal is with these, do i *need* one, or will the kit come with an adapter thing to allow me to use my own AA's. If i was to buy one, how do i charge them?? will my Novak Millennium do the job, or is that something else to get??

BTW, Love that Engine Head, very nice!!

[SN VipeR]

I got the shock socks off a Savage set (one size fits all) a friend of mine ordered at a german online shop. No idea if your hobby shop has them but you'll know the minute you get there. :)

I'd say get a nice flat or hump pack and you're all set. 5 AAs don't fit unterneath the hyper body (well they do but they push it up and scratch it). If you want to use 4 AAs and one of those AA boxes where you can put them in and out again, that'll work just fine. But they're really sloppy I think and prone to failure as I've heard. A 5-cell configuration also gives a bit more juice.
Basically, you're best off with a soldered flat pack as various companies offer:

http://www.nitrohouse.com/images/10010-19999/10211,-flat-NiMH-battery-pa.jpg

Whether your charger can charge them or not should be in the manual but you can charge NiMHs with any slow charger as far as I know.

[PC2K]

i'd probably have to knock up some kind of converter for it, just wire on another connector with which i could charge though, either that, or get a female connector to the male receiver plug, and do something similar to that. Ive done that in the past for other connectors, suppose i could do the same again.
I'll grab some of those shock sock things then if i can, definately a good investment for the time saved cleaning them, and keeping the parts in good condition etc.

[Got Speed]

PC2K- Nice body. I'm still waiting to get mine to paint. Most cooling heads arn't $80. Some are but there are other cooling heads that do just as well IMO. You may or may not find the colors you want though. If you charger can charge NiMh, 5 cell batterys at less than an amp then you'll be fine. I usually charge my batts at .7 amp. Look on ebay you can get a rechargeable 1000-1100 pack for about $13 new.

SN VipeR- I didn't know the normal sock shocks fit 1/8 shocks. Do you have any problems with them not allowing the spring to compress right or anything like that? I noticed your running a hump pack on your buggy. I didn't know you could because mine didn't come with the "battery box" for the hump pack. I ended up buying one but by that time I'd already converted my hump pack to a straight 5 cell pack. Anyway, which way do you think is more balanced. I know the hump pack hangs out more to the side. I use hump packs in my other car so it would be easier to use them but if the flat pack makes it more balanced I'll do that.

One more question, what kind of oil do you guys run in your diffs?
Currently I have 3K in the front, 7K in the center, and 3K in the rear. I wanted to start with 3, 7, 1 but this was all I had available. I will be running from hard wet tracks to loamy wet tracks. I want a good setup I can use at both without having to change oils every time.

[Got Speed]

Sorry, one more question. lol Are there any better clutches out there than the stock clutch. I'm going to buy some new springs and I'd rather just buy a whole new clutch if there is a better one out there. If so does anyone have a link. Clutches for the MBX5, Storm, and 7.5 will fit too won't they?

Thanks

[SN VipeR]

I have a hump pack right now on the race car and a flat on the other. When racing I'll definitely switch around though. A flat pack moves the weight fürther against the middle of the car and should minimise chassis roll. Now this sounds sophisticated but unless you're a world champion I don't think you'll notice this at all. I used them both on the other buggy and sure didn't so I think you'll be fine with the hump pack.
I actually have about four humps and two flat packs. I just put whatever's charged into the car.
I haven't tested the fabric shock socks yet, but as far as I can tell they don't interfere with anything. On my other car I have rubber socks and they also work just fine.

Got Speed, take a look at my clutch (back 1 page). It's this one reviewed here:

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/options/rmv/speed2/speed2.html

No Idea if you can get it in the States though. :confused:

[Got Speed]

Thanks. SN ViperR

One more thing though. :rolleyes: Will the center torsen diff for the 9.5 work with the Hyper 7 PBS?

Thanks again.

[PC2K]

:'( Im still waiting for my PCR Pro to come to the door, 3-5 day service, and the mean gits leave it till the 5th day dont they!!

Wouldnt mind, but it was with Customs on the 2nd night, so i can understand it not being here for day 3 as it probably wouldnt have passed customs till Day 3, but im annoyed its not here (day 4).

Went to my LHS the other day, and picked up a Standard H7 4-port (whatever cheap engine comes with the H7 RTR kit) for a tasty price, cheap enouge that it was worth buying and get used to using and tuning and what-not before putting the 8 Port-R into the buggy.
The only thing i dont have is an RX Pack, which whey were waiting for when i popped down, so thats something to wait for, 4.8v AA's will do for a week while im building it and running it in etc.

[SN VipeR]

Will the center torsen diff for the 9.5 work with the Hyper 7 PBS?


No Idea but bearing in mind those two kits are from different manufacturers I wouldn't count on it. There are torsen diffs especially for the Hyper though. You might find one cheap on ebay.

PC2K, I've waited more than a week once for a small package with 3-5 day shipping. I think customs keep that stuff for two days and play with it. :)

[PC2K]

Dont say that!!!
Now look what you've done, im in tears again ;)

If they so much as dare to not deliver it tomorrow, there'll be some serious reprecusions for there actions! Oooooh that right, i'll be paying the postie in 1p coins, and i'd expect thats quiet a lot of 1p coins with the amount of stuff i've ordered!!
They think they can mess with me! Pah, i'll show them who's boss :)

hehe :D

[PC2K]

Planned to just edit the above post, but it seems that cant be done after 60 seconds of posting it.
only wanted to add that they'd arrived at customs shortly after 8pm on Tuesday (2 packages) and both cleared at 5:01pm and 5:02pm today!
Man, talk about talking your time! they had it sat there all day Wednesday, and as good as all of Thursday before clearing it. This is when the package can go from Central USA, to the West Coast, and over the other UK in the same period of time!!
Amazing isnt it, it can be in and out of USPS's hands and into the UK, quicker than the UK customs can process it! Knowing my luck, they couldnt find anything powerful enough to calculate how much there gonna charge me!! 17.5% vat and 4% for various other thinks they make up to increase the price, have you ever known anything like it??

[Got Speed]

SN VipeR- Thanks I didn't know taht the 9.5 was made by somebody different(Hong Nor?). Is the torsen diff worth the money. I know there are some incredible performance increase claims with the Fiorini diffs in the Kyosho and Mugen cars but will this Ofna diff work just as well and last as long?

Thanks again.

[PC2K]

Hi,

The Buggy arrived today, spent about 8-10 hours on it so far, and have both bulkheads built and the shocks done.

Very disappointed that they didnt include any Diff Oils, i've built them dry, and they'll have to stay that way till i get some midweek (wont be being run, so dont worry about that). Seems odd to include things like a fuel bottle, when you dont get basic items to complete the kit. An exhaust was another thing i wasnt expecting to get, and it seems odd that they couldnt include just a little diff oil for each diff, to allow you to complete the kit.


Right, my main reason for posting.
Im finishing off the rear bulkhead, and i have a problem.
The rear Arms dont seem right, the manual for the kit is pathetic, its an original H7 manual, with a ammendment leaflet (about 6 pages for building changes, 6 pages of setup sheets, a couple of garbage, and only the new radio try is purely taking the PCR Pro into account)
All the diagrams show bits that have been improved, and this is where my problem leaves me.
The 2 holes to attach the arms to the bulkhead itself, are in now way aligned, with the rod going straight through, its too high and not far out enough at the rear.
The images i have look about right, yet there diagrams show the arm nice and snug alongside the bulkhead, well not on mine it isnt.

I've taken photos to show what i mean:

pic1:
http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/problem1/pic1.jpg
You can see there, how the arm would line up, and on the rear end, you can just see a little light spot on the inside of the rear hole, where it should be lining up with. Thats the way the front part wants to sit.

pic2:
http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/problem1/pic2.jpg
without the arm in place, you can get an idea where it wants to go, gravity at that end is also lowering it a little more than a perfect line would take it.
too far in, and would be too low down.

pic3:
http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/problem1/pic3.jpg
Not a great picture, its hard to tell if its looking right down the hole correctly, as it is, the photo is too generous in aligning the 2 up, it wants to be pointing a little further away from the end hole.


What can i do about this?? surely this isnt correct, its well out of line and when i did use force to line them up, the arm had forced movement only, and looked terrible, the car had tons of toe in, and that was coming from the arms rather than the hub itself, it also had a large gap at the back end where the arm really should be. Has anyone else here got the PCR Pro kit, and could they shed some light on this or something (ANYTHING even!)

Im going to move on, and hopefully someones reply will offer some help, its definately the correct parts used, but something isnt right.
If more pics are needed, large or small, let me know and i'll take them as soon as i read the reply.

Oh, and im also going to say that the threading of plastric parts onto metal is terrible, i dont know if its the use of tougher plastic, but its truely horrible. Maybe its cos im used to 1:10 electric touring and this is common for the scale and the forces it has to withstand, but i gave up on fitting the C-hubs because i spent forever trying to thread the upper link. oh, it also has much chunkier links compared to the photos, threw me off for quite a while, huge holes to go into the arms, and tiny turnbuckles!!

Please Help,

PaulC2K

[Got Speed]

Just guessing but do you have the front hinge pin brace on the rear. It dosn't look like it but it would be something to check anyway.

[Got Speed]

Oh and as far as threading things like the turnbuckles. It is because of the size. My other 1/8 scale was like that and so where the larger turnbuckles and such on my T-Maxx.

[PC2K]

nah, its definately a self contained problem at the rear, the front is fine.

The braces are slighly different in design than those shown in the manual, but they're still the same shape (just added/removed supports etc).

And as if the back end not being able to connect wasnt bad enough, i've got as far as adding the side 'plates' onto the chassis... the flamin muppets have only gone and added 2 left side plates and non for the right hand side!!
How hard can it be to put things into a bag on a conveyor belt??

I've also had problems when building the center diff/brake unit. One of the brake discs didnt want to fit onto its hex, was ever so slightly too big. Luckily i have a dremel, so i was able to lightly shave a bit off, but its just as well otherwise i'd have been a disc short, and also the Long/Rear shaft head was rubbing on the diff outdrives, this was on all the outdrives as i tried it on my spare center diff. Again, out came the dremel and i 'shaved' the head down a little, not much better (wont go all the way down, but gets half way) but it does fit now.

Its tipical though, now ive got to deal with OFNA from the UK, maybe i can contact Hobao instead and get the Right side plate from them rather than mess with OFNA.

When they said it was a Pro kit, it makes you wonder what there definition of Pro is, it certainly doesn't appear to be what i'd refer to the packaging department as.

[SN VipeR]

That with the rear arm and pin is no problem at all. It's called toe-in. With applying a little bit of force and aligning the arm down and inwards you should get the pin through both carriers. Take a look at my x-ray pics a few pages back to see how big the toe-in is.
Getting the rod ends and turnbuckles together can be a pain I agree. The upside is they hold up really well. Just keep trying.
Sounds like you got a monday kit. I haven't had problems with my pcr brakes and cvds. Unexcusable though and the same goes for the side guards. Luckily those should be easy to replace.
My first Hyper 7 Pro kit actually missed some rod ends. I also wasn't very happy about that. No buggy comes with diff oil though. To make everyone happy they'd have to include everything from 1000wt to 100'000wt.

Another little tip is to glue the side guards onto the chassis. Otherwise they get dirt and stones underneath and get sloppy at the joint and leave much dirt through.

[X-Tee Ha !]

Paul, that Chrome paint on the Buggy Shell, is that a hard finish to achieve, it looks fantastic ! I've looked in to having a go at chrome before but all I could find is "Alclad" which wasn't in an aerosol and about £1000000 a bottle :D

Have fun building your H7 !

[aGeS]

here's my Hyper 7 Pro.. I await the arrival of my quad brake flywheel to break it in..

[PC2K]

SNV:
I'll force the arm to align, and i'll get some photos and you can say if that looks normal etc
The PBS is similar, but the holes feel like there drilled at an angle to allow this, the rear ones dont, it feels unnatural to do this, which is why i dont like it.


X-tee Ha:
The chrome is simple, you can buy it in the can or in airbrush form, and it just goes straight onto the shell, back it with a waterbased black if you can (same applies to aerosol version, try and use a waterbased black, otherwise leave it un-backed)
Try www.Spaz-Stix.com or your LHS for the stuff, its great stuff, and its tougher than 'other brands' versions in both can and airbrush.

[PC2K]

some photos taken with the arms attached to Bulkhead in forced fashion (which required a hammer and a fair bit of force!)

http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/problem1/pic4.jpg

http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/problem1/pic5.jpg
This shows the angle at which the arms are altered with the bulkhead braces in place.
The angle of forced toe-in is at 6 degrees!
My only thought is that this was done for the C-Hubs, rather than because of the PBS, because you could easily add whatever Toe-in on that suspension, where-as the C-hubs would have to use this sort of method.
Cant say im very impressed with this method at all.

http://www.qazwert.com/rc/photos/Hyper7/problem1/pic6.jpg

[Anemic_SluG]

Hi!!
I am new to the OFNA board since I just got my PCR RTR Hper 7. My question is does the chassis stiffner braces from teh pro kit fit the PBS kits? I am a little confused because it looks like everything from the center diff forward is different between the 2 styles of kits. Anyway i am just curious if the staight pro braces fit the PBS kit. Thanks and can't wait to get this thing race ready! :cool:

[Pacoson]

oops :eek:

[X-Tee Ha !]

Thanks for the Chrome Paint tips, it's for a project on the "back burner" that I had in mind.

That picture looks awful, is the front hingepin brace (the thick one) bored/drilled at 90 degrees to the surface ? then the pin goes off at this angle ? suprised you got it in ! It might be "right" as in "they are all like it" but it sure isn't good engineering :mad:

[SN VipeR]

Well I guess it is as it is then. If you take a look at my x-ray pics a few pages back, it apparently is meant to be like that. The Hyper wasn't designed for PB suspension in the first place and they want the PCR to work with both kinds of suspensions I'd think (doesn't it come with both?). As long as the arms move freely it should be okay. By the way, you put the arms on upside down. Putting them the right way (shock holes in the rear) might decrease your toe-in.

The only solution to this problem, if it really is one to you and continues to be after you've put the arms on correctly, would be to get an aftermarket rear hub carrier or make one yourself for less "arm toe-in". Keep in mind "arm toe-in" might be a bit different as toe-in you adjust at the wheel hubs and thus it might be desired even though you have PBS. No Idea if that's true though, but it could be.

Anemic: All Hyper braces from all kits are interchangeable as far as I know. I'm using a PBS rear one on my PCR Pro right now. (plan to switch though to the lighter PCR one soon)

[PC2K]

The kit is now built with the exception of the right side plate, and im also stuggling with the servo mount setup, mainly the linkages to control throttle/brake.
The instruction manual shows one style, yet the additional instructions for the laydown servo mount shows another, which i followed, but that doesnt work with the brake levers!
it has the levers with (bent) circular ends on the brakes, and the PCR linkages are shown with ballcup ends!! the ballcup which hooks onto the throttle is terribly tight, and will stay at whatever angle you let go of it at, and its meaning thottle movement isnt as free as i'd expect it to be.
Also havent connected the steering servo to the front end.
I dont have an rx battery pack yet, so for the time being i've managed to put my Xray T1 Evo2 alongside it, and im powering the ESC and using the powered lead and putting it into the battery channel on the RX so its powered! so i've tested the throttle/brakes and it isnt right, i probably need someone who knows how to set it up to take a look at it and make the alterations and show me how to go about this myself etc.

At least not having the side plate doesnt stop me from running the engine in, its lucky that its the right side missing as it seems nothing connects onto it, where as i think the exhaust might not be connectable if it was the other side missing.

You do get both PBS and C-Hub with the kit, you get 2 lots of front towers, all 3 C-hubs (17', 19' and 23') and the chassis support bars to fit both chassis.
Theres also a considerable amount of 'junk' in the kit which really isnt needed at all, alloy bits that are also in the box in plastic?? Some might think thats good cos you have spares etc, but to me thats a waste, about 20-30% of the bits n peices in the box arent needed, and thats not an understatement, i could literally bin it and still create both susp types etc. Its maybe as little as $20 worth of bits we've paid for that dont need to be there, but are there because they just throw the new bits in and dont take the old ones out. I have a carbon and a Alloy steering brace (or whatever the bit is thats placed above it is called) and nearly everything purple in the kit is there in plastic too.

[bustedparts]

My freind is buliding a pro pcr now to,He is having a very hard time with the instuctions.There are so many peices he dont know what ones to put on.I have a question.What do you put in the center spider diff.I have herd a few thing like grease.What have you guys found to work well.Also I will be running on a track that has alot of loam.

[bustedparts]

here's my Hyper 7 Pro.. I await the arrival of my quad brake flywheel to break it in..
What kind of manifold is that.I have the one that came with my ofna 086 pipe and it has to much of a bend.I would like to get one like yours!

[SN VipeR]

PC2K: Did you switch the arms around? Did it have any positive effect?
Take a look at my linkage setup, might help you:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/racebuggy7.jpg

The upper brake link is bent slightly, the other one is straight. I've switched the throttle linkage to the bottom of the arm to get more space for the airfilter.
The throttle linkage needs no spring because of the rubber band 'round the carb (works as a TRS as well).
I also had to turn the ball on the carb down for this. I'll make a pic without the air filter if you want.

I put both servo cables into one shrink wrap and led them under the throttle servo to the radio box.

[bustedparts]

Were did you get that radio tray????

[X-Tee Ha !]

Nice clean layout there :D I noticed the 4 brake disks, is this normal on the H7 Pro ? Or have you fitted two extra ?

[Got Speed]

I noticed the front torque brace going to the diff brace. Is that standard on the H7 Pro or did you make it? I was hoping I could find a different brace for the rear because my chassis seems pretty stiff except between where the rear brace mounts and the center diff mounts. Those couple of centimeters or so flexs alot more than the rest of the chassis.

[SN VipeR]

I made the front carbon brace myself to get rid of the normal front brace. I also see the problem with the rear brace and I'm looking to make a similar one as I have infront for the rear. I don't know where to mount it at the rear diff box yet though. For the front mount I'll just make a new diff plate with holes on the front and rear. The current one only has a hole on the front.

[Got Speed]

Thanks, I didn't think it was stock. If you do come up with an idea for the rear please let us know if you don't mind sharing it.

Thanks

[Shawn300]

has anyone had any problems with the shock shafts on the pbs? i was letting my friend drive it the other day and i was right next to him watchin and he hit a metal pole ( on a tennis court the thing that holds up the net) at about 10mph or less and it snapped right at the ball end and bent where it goes into the shock body. later thay day when i took a look at it, it looked as if it was metal on the outside and plastic on the inside. For any car it broke wayyyyy too easily. I had a hpi nitro mt and never had this problem with the stock shocks and i have crashed it much worse only cracking a plastic a arm. I bought titanium ones so hopefully this will solve the problem.

[SN VipeR]

Both my front shock shafts (that's what you're talking about, right?) broke on the first day out with the Hyper. (BMX track though, huge jumps) I replaced them with Kyosho ones and they've held up fine until now. One of them is bent slightly after the last gravel pit exploit but it's not a big problem.

[Shawn300]

did u crash it or jus lighty hit something? I lightly hit a post barely moving and it snapped like a toothpick. It seems to be made of metal but snapped like plastic.

[fearlessone]

Guys, I have the hyper7 pro PCR also. I have had a hyper7 pro before this kit and let me tell you this kit was WAY harder to put together. Instructions are non-existant.
I have had all the same problems that you
guys have had putting it together. Parts missing, rear center universal not fitting right in the cup. I had to use a drill bit to make the a-arm holes bigger because the suspension pins were making the arms bind from being to tight. If i didnt so this, my a-arms would not move freely up and down with the shocks off. And they should! If they dont flop loosly up and down with the shocks off, they are too tight. But dont drill the holes out to much or they will have slop. Just get a drill bit thats a hair bigger than the holes. I have tons of left over parts also. I just listed them on ebay to get some
money back, lol.

[Got Speed]

You would think Ofna would save themselves some money by just doing it right so they don't have to replace parts or waste money putting extra parts in kits(lol, your extra parts are probably somebodys missing parts). In a way I feel lucky I got the RTR version now. I am trying to upgrade the stuff that matters to Pro specs or better though. Speaking of which, I just got an awesome deal on ebay. A bran new center torsen for $54.00 shipped. I can't wait to get it and break it in. Any tips or suggestions on breaking it in?

[Shawn300]

thats something new, i didnt know u had to break in a torsen. all i can really say is take it easy at first then put her through her paces.

[Got Speed]

What I've heard is that you are supposed to drive it in a figure 8 for about a tank of fuel then take it apart and clean it out then refill it and put it back in. Is this true, partially true, or totally false? The explanation was that it needs to all wear evenly and when you clean it out your are getting little tiny metal shavings out. I have no idea how true this is because I've never owned a torsen or even helped any body that had one.

[p.n.e]

yup that is correct, slow figure 8's. use a high quality grease or the included grease to lube them.

[Got Speed]

p.n.e- No when I lube them am I supposed to fill them up like normal diffs or just make it so all the gears have a generous amount of grease on them. I assume there is only enough grease included to lube them the first time and I doubt anybody has any grease specifically for torsens around here so when you say a high quality grease would high temp bearing grease be alright to use since it is used in the normal diffs? Also one other question. Somebody else and you just said to do slow figure 8s. I don't understand how doing slow figure 8s on a smooth surface like asphalt can help break the diff in. Since it is in the center by doing slow figure 8's how would it get broken in?

[p.n.e]

well that depends on your interpretation of slow. i actually took 6 tanks to break mines in. starting with slow figure 8's and speed up to the point where a wheel almost lifts off the ground. i also would prop it on its rear or front wheels and SLOWLY give it gas just enough to turn the wheels at a slow speed. i definately dont fill mine up, but i do coat them liberally. i use molybednuim (sp) grease which is made specially for high temperatures, but you'd be fine with any other type of high temperature grease.

[Godspeed]

Hey folks, sorry to interupt. Recently, i stripped down my h7 and found that some of the screws are bent. I am thinking of replacing all screws on the car with stronger ones (hex screw preferably). Save me the hassle of cleaning them one by one too. I don't need no titanium ones...just normal steel ones will do but they must be strong. Can someone please recommend some online website that sells screws in a whole set? Thx in advance man. :)

[Gyro Gearloose]

What screws were bent?

I don't know what you should get, but I know that those rcsrcews stainless kits suck. Stainless are a bad idea anyways because they'll likely be softer than the ones the car came with.

[SN VipeR]

I fill my torsen with 1000wt Silicone Oil and it seems to hold up fine. I did not run mine in and last time I took it apart there were no metal scrapes or anything like it at all. It looks like new.

GotSpeed, try this: www.rcscrewz.com
EDIT: Oh I just saw the post above, better not then...

[Got Speed]

p.n.e - Thanks alot. I was thinking about letting it turn the wheels slowly like that too. I can't wait to get it. I should have it friday. Now I just have to find a front one cheap.

Godspeed- I usually just go to a hardware store like Ace and get grade 8 steel screws. Works great and they don't get bent easily. I thought about some stainless but was worried about durability. I'm glad I didn't get them now.

SN VipeR- That was Godspeed you were talking to. lol pretty similar to Got Speed. hehe

[PC2K]

SN Viper:
I missed all these threads, only just thought id come and make sure i hadnt missed an email saying there was a reply etc, and it seems we've all been busy posting without me :)

Ive got the links sorted out, for days i had this little packet with nothing more than 2 little metal rods with a tiny ball on the end, and i couldnt for the life of me see how other people (and the manual too) had managed to put Ball cups onto the rod shown in your pic (the ___O type) and then it hit me, they were alternatives which fitted onto ballcups :)
Ok, so im slow! hehe
It really isnt any help when you have a H7 manual, PBS additional instructions, and a PCR laydown sheet.
They all talk about how each kit is build, but of course it doesnt tell you how to build a PCR, you just have to guess half the stuff! The manuals were one of the things i was very disappointed with, that and the thought put into some of the construction (like not drilling diagonal holes when your pivotpins are gonna go diagonally!).


I only need 10000wt oil for the rear Diff which has been in the post for 3 days (excluding the holidays) and will be a whole week if it does turn up tomorrow. I've tried running the engine in, but can i get the thing to start? hell no!
Phoned up my LHS, they said pop down and they'll have a look, went down, they had a look and a slight tweek, pulled on the pullstarter 3 times and off it goes!
I was pleased to know it wasnt a fault, and went home with it knowing it was fine.
Got it home, pulled twice, nothing, pulled a third time... and the ruddy pullstart lead came flying out in my hand!!
So you can imagine how impressed i was.
I've put it onto my starterbox (the AE/Thunder Tiger one) and that struggled to turn it over at first, plenty of smoke the first few times, but now its ticking over fine, it just doesnt want to kick in and start up.
The glow plug is fine, at first i realised it wasnt glowing and charging the glow starter did the trick, but i still cant get any action from the engine!

Im glad all this is happening to the 4 port i bought to practice on, cos i'd be worried im damaging the 8PR.
Ive brought the fuel up, lit the glow, and put her on the starterbox, but nothing happens :confused:

edit - yer, ive switched the arms around, i realised shortly after posting the pictures that the susp holes were at the front side :D hehe

[Got Speed]

Are you having a problem with it once it is running?

I must say I was fairly impressed by my buggy compared to what some people said about it. Designwise I can't find alot of fault with it. Side by side with an MBX-5 it isn't much different feature wise. As far as geometry it isn't far off either. With some setup work I think it can hang with the MBX-5s and MP 7.5s just as easily as they can with each other. There were a few things I wasn't very impressed about like the upper front hinge pins going diagonally into straight holes. I thought the rear torque brace should have come closer to the center diff too. Otherwise I couldn't find anything wrong with the design.
Upgrade wise I think the only thing it lacks is threaded shocks with thicker shock shafts. Like the MBX 9.5. As usual with RTRs it lacks some things like the shock towers, alum. hinge pin braces, CVAs, ball bearing steering. I think Ofna should really do something with their manual, those front upper hinge pins, and the shocks.

For my PBS I am trying to get it upgraded and completely ready to race from the essentials like the engine and tires down to smaller things like a good looking body :p

[wulffmeister]

I have just put together my Hyper 7 Pro kit and i was wondering if the RB S5 engine is a good choice with me eventually racing?

[wulffmeister]

Another question is do you recommend the four disk brake setup on the Hyper 7 Pro or is the dual good?

[fearlessone]

I ran my hyper7 PCR pro with MBX for the first time for only a hour
going over average jumps on the track. And one of my front bottom
pillows balls snapped in half! I didnt even wreck! I'm going back to
C-hub style front end. I never ever had a problem when i had that on my hyper7 pro.

And they need PCR instructions. I had to put the servo setup and the linkage together by looking at pictures from websites!

I run a RB S7II. I love it so far. Runs, idles great! So the RB S5 should be
great too. Just more bottom end than top.

[Got Speed]

wulffmeister - I talked to alot of people about the S5. It seems to be a great engine. Like the S7 with more bottom end and less on top. I ended up getting a P5 since I found it at a good price.

Does anyone know if I can use a center torsen for the front if I take the spur off and put the ring gear on?

[SN VipeR]

Does anyone know if I can use a center torsen for the front if I take the spur off and put the ring gear on?

Should theoretically work but you also need other outdrives. Even if the middle outdrives/brake hubs work they're too heavy I think. If the normal diff outdrives are compatible with the torsen diff I don't know.

[ThyHebrewHammer]

i know this is a bit off topic but, does anyone have any info on this buggy

[Got Speed]

SN VipeR - I looked at my center spider diff and compared it to the front 4 gear diff and the diff cups is larger. Is this just a difference because it is the 8 spider gear diff so it needs to be larger or is it because it is the center? If it is just because it is the 8 gear I should be able to take the outdrives off my front diff and put them in the torsen. I would have to screw some short screws into the remaining 4 holes though if the spur on the torsen is held on by 8 screws. I'll have to see when I get it. I'll let you know how it works out.

ThyHebrewHammer- You may want to go to this thread instead: http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=85311

[Got Speed]

I got my torsen diff installed and everything. How can I tell if it is working properly(lol). I know it sounds like a really stupid question but I thought the whole idea was to transfer power to the wheels with the most traction. Which is a why it feels like it is only RWD with just a center torsen. Now if I'm right, I should be able to pick the front end up and turn the spur gear with my finger and the rear wheels should start moving the buggy. When I do this they start to move the buggy but then it slips. Is there something wrong with it? Or does it need to be fully broken in? I'm at a loss here since I've never owned, used, or ever found out how they work.

One problem I found about using a center torsen for the front is that the bolts go thread into the gear so I can't use the gear off my standard diff. They want $30 for a crown gear seperate for the torsen!

Thanks

[gtkx80]

Is Lunsord the only ones that make a carb adapter to insatll an O.S. carb? Or does ofna make one also?

[p.n.e]

got speed, the torsen doesnt work like that. it needs to be moving at high rpm in order to transfer the power. much faster than your finger can move the spur gear.you will see it work if you lift the front of your buggy off the ground and give it gas. also, it isnt 100% power that is directed to the wheel with traction, and if all 4 wheels are on the ground then you will get an even 4wd effect.

[Got Speed]

p.n.e.- Oh ok. How much power is transferred to the tires that have traction? Only a little(like a normal diff) or does provide an almost constant amount of power even if 100% of it dosn't make it to the tires with traction?

Thanks

[XXXtacy]

Heya-
Does anyone know the part # for the quad brake flywheel?? Is 19333 the right one?

[PC2K]

hehe, I got my Buggy working on Monday night, there was a technical problem with the user, lack of ANY knowledge it appears.
I'll start by pointing out this is my first Nitro car, ive only ever done about half a lap on a touring car (which ran out of fuel as soon as i took control) so thats as much nitro knowledge as i have, ok, now for the bit where you all start pointing and laughing :D
This may shock you all to learn this, but ive found that it sometimes helps if you apply the throttle a little to actually allow the fuel into the engine!
Yes, i know, your as shocked to hear this as i was, hehe

There you go, ive made your week now.

I actually made that 'historical discovery' when putting in my 8-port race just to make sure it wasnt the snapped pull starter and something within that which had caused the refusal to start up. thought i'd give it some throttle to make sure, and off it goes after a matter of seconds on the startbox.
4 Port did the same with a little throttle too :)

I've ran about a tank and a half between the two engines, the 4-port probably having a larger share. Roughly how many tanks should i put through the engine before letting her go roaming the lands?
Also, it could be low power in the rx pack (just finished charging it a min ago) but when i had the 4P engine running sometimes it would really 'take off' and start screaming its nuts off whilst sat 'on' the starterbox (sat on it, but not using it etc).
Is this just because the servo isnt getting full voltage (would have been about 4.0-4.5v) and was causing it to be a little twitchy, a little tap back on the throttle brought it back into line fine.

Also, with the 8PR engine, it seemed to stall very easily, there wasnt a neutral where it was sitting there happily, the 4P seemed better and also much louder, though it may have been cos the 8PR would cut out when bringing it up too high, it seemed to need a happy place to sit in, and didnt like moving out of that area.
Is this normal for a new engine being run in?

Chears, and m gonna make sure im set to receive emails from this thread, cos im sure i was, but its not bothering at the moment!!

[fezzy]

Hi Paul, Its Ash. Good 2 see you up and running, Non of your questions are particularly answerable unless you go into abit more detail (Which I don't expect you to do), I'll catch up with you on MSN if your going to be on, I'll be happy to help. Sounds to be with the 8PR that you just need to have a tinkle with the mixtures, I can't tell you what to do though without hearing it myself.

[Got Speed]

PC2K- 4V - 4.5V isn't enough for the servos and if you let it get much lower and don't have a throttle return spring you risk having a run away. It sounds to me like your 8P just needs a little needle adjusting.

[Got Speed]

If anybody is intrested I've got an extra center torsen I need to sell now.

[PC2K]

Hi Ash,
I'll try and jump onto MSN tonight, im quite busy at the moment, to the extent that after building the kit, its taken me 3 weeks to try and start it up 4 times, and then realise a little throttle helps. Just one of those brain farts i can imagine i'll be having for a few months before getting used to Nitro.
When i went to see Pete just before getting the kit, he asked me what fuel i wanted to use, and having no idea which is better than which, i let him pick, he started explaining which was good and there prices, and said i'd probably be better off with Blue Thunder, and then he stopped, and said 'actually, if your talking to Ash, he'll only complain about BT, so you might as well try the Tornado' hehe. Your influencing my purchasing!! I'd say it seems ok, but what would i know!
Are they still racing at the Preston track? once ive given the buggy a run in and a bit of messing about round here, i wanna take her out and see what she can do. It'd also be good to get some help from people there, i can try and set it up, but at the end of the day im probably miles out anyway :)


The rx pack is now up to 7.1v and with a lot of servo movement drops to 6.4v so that should last me a while, i'll be taking it out in a short while before it goes dark.
There is a throttle spring in place, and i fitted the new Ofna failsafe last night also, which kicks in great, i didnt see the throttle servo twitching (though i wasnt paying full attention to it, just watching over it, there was nothing significant going on eitherway) but i just wondered if the low power could have caused it to slowly move, even though the volume got encreasingly louder, and the speed doubled near instantly.

I'll see how i go again tonight, the 4P is back in place, its my practice engine, the one im hoping to learn with before putting the 8PR in there.

[fezzy]

LOL, I like that comment Pete made, And he's right, BT is utter garbage... Which fuel did u go with in the end? I've been using Tornado for a little while now and it seems real good, It's one of the top fuel's of racers choice. Yes they still are racing at PRCC, They now have a new track and I am told its stunning (http://www.prcc.co.uk).

Its a shame your busy, It'd of been good if we could of meet up and I'd of given your Hyper the once over :D, I want another buggy.... :(

[bustedparts]

Both my front shock shafts (that's what you're talking about, right?) broke on the first day out with the Hyper. (BMX track though, huge jumps) I replaced them with Kyosho ones and they've held up fine until now. One of them is bent slightly after the last gravel pit exploit but it's not a big problem.
Can you tell me what kyosho shafts you used.I need to get some for ming.I have 2 bent one.

[PuppyChow]

I just got off the phone with OFNA tech support. I spoke with somebody named Paul who let me know that most if not all of the kits that shipped are missing some parts. They are the front caster washers/clips, alum steering knuckles #87032, and the rear steel ball mounts #87047. I was upset that in the process of putting the car together, I was stopped dead in my tracks because I can't put the C-HUB suspension setup together.
I called support as soon as they opened up for the day. While talking to the guy, he also let me know that the caster clips that were packaged are the thin ones, not the thicker proper ones.
To make a long story short, I faxed a copy of my sales receipt to OFNA and they are shipping the missing parts to me free of charge. I think they handled their mistake well. I feel better now.

[evild]

I have recently purchased a Hyper 7 PCR RTR and hope to race it in the upcoming months. This is my first foray into 1/8 scale buggies and I have a couple questions about differential and shock fluid weights. Specifically for the PCR RTR version but also for Hyper 7s in general.

The track I'll be at is long, with an average amount of jumps and bumps. The dirt looks to be pretty loose but there is a groove. Not quite a blue groove, but a groove nonetheless.

What weight diff fluid should I put in the diffs? Front, center and rear. I've heard: 3000 front, 5000-7000 center, 1000 rear. BTW, the center diff is a Spyder diff. Suggestions?

Also, on a track like this, I was thinking 35wt in the front shocks and 40wt in the back. Any opinions on this shock setup?

Thanks for the suggestions/comments/hopes/concerns.

[Got Speed]

evild- I can't comment on the suspension setup because I'm still getting used to the buggy so I havn't messed with it. But from what I've found, on a dry track anything less than 7000wt oil in the center is way to light. I prefer 10K or more. I run a torsen in the center now but with a normal diff 7K or more is how I like it otherwise most of you power is bled off into the front wheels spinning(ripping off the tread, lol). I'm trying 3K in the rear which I think is too heavy(it tends to push like this). 5k in the front is about right IMO.

Are the Kyosho TCD/LSDs the same as torsens? I know it is traction control/limited slip which is a torsen but I just want to make sure. Are the Kyosho diffs good quality ones. I'm looking at getting a front and maybe a rear real cheap but I want to know if they are worth having. Thanks

[fearlessone]

I just got off the phone with OFNA tech support. I spoke with somebody named Paul who let me know that most if not all of the kits that shipped are missing some parts. They are the front caster washers/clips, alum steering knuckles #87032, and the rear steel ball mounts #87047. I was upset that in the process of putting the car together, I was stopped dead in my tracks because I can't put the C-HUB suspension setup together.
I called support as soon as they opened up for the day. While talking to the guy, he also let me know that the caster clips that were packaged are the thin ones, not the thicker proper ones.
To make a long story short, I faxed a copy of my sales receipt to OFNA and they are shipping the missing parts to me free of charge. I think they handled their mistake well. I feel better now.

That Paul guy you talked to was Paul Coleman. PCR stands for (Paul Coleman Racing.) I'm lucky enough to live 5 miles from Ofna. I go there
in person all the time for parts.

[SN VipeR]

Can you tell me what kyosho shafts you used.I need to get some for ming.I have 2 bent one.

I use those:
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0001P?&I=LXV239

[Racin Rev]

does anyone other than me have trouble with brake adjustment? I can get the fronts to lock but no matter what i do i cannot get the rears to do much, even if the fronts are totally loose the rears won't grab.

Also what settings are you guys making who have changed the 8 port for an os carb?

[PuppyChow]

I can't find any setup sheets for the PCR. I called OFNA tech support, and the guy told me that he would have another tech named Paul call me. It never happened. I called back, and nobody can tell me where I can get a descent setup. I'm inclined to take a setup from an Inferno 7.5 and adjust it to my H7PCR.

Does anyone here know of a site where I may find a good setup? I found a link to the OFNA team drivers' setups, but alas, it was dead. :( Help me please :)

-=DAViD=-

[Got Speed]

Racin Rev- I use the MBX-5 linkage. It works great. It's real easy to adjust too. Just turn them with your fingers to adjust them.

PuppyChow- Their web site has a blank one but I don't know about any team drivers setups.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Racin Rev,

royta talked me into the Mugen brake linkage, I think it's great. See the pics here on post#693
http://www.radiocontrolzone.com/forums/showthread.php?t=135718&page=18&pp=40

You won't be sorry if you change over, the linkage that came with my PBS was pitiful.

[evild]

I can't find any setup sheets for the PCR. ... Does anyone here know of a site where I may find a good setup? I found a link to the OFNA team drivers' setups, but alas, it was dead. :( Help me please


There are some Hyper 7 setup sheets in PDF format here: http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/cml_setup.htm

These should give you a good start at least.

[Jeff Cain]

I've got my setup listed on my homepage if you're interested. Granted I'm no team driver, but it's a good starting setup IMO.

http://home.earthlink.net/~rshackelford/

[PuppyChow]

Oops - Double Post

[PuppyChow]

I'm needing to know what the internal drive ratio of the Hyper 7 is. If I know that number, I'd be able to find out the final drive ratio. Does anybody know? The OFNA techs have no idea. If anybody knows the final drive ratio with a 13 or a 14 tooth spur gear, I can find the internal. Help, thanks.

[sosidge]

Don't know if it helps you, but open up the gearbox, count the number of teeth on the diff gear, count the teeth on the input gear, and calculate the diff teeth/input teeth to get the internal ratio.

[Jeff Cain]

43/13=3.31

[thecatfish]

My lhs told me they dont even make the Hyper 7 Pro anymore. This shop really pushes Kyosho and GS racing products. I can understand Kyosho beeing there high end product, howwever They keep telling me The Storm is far superior to the Hyper 7. I really want the Hyper 7 pro. However I am worried about finding parts. Are part readily available online for the Hyper 7 pro kit? If so where? Are Inferno parts interchangable with the Hyper 7? Sorry about all the questions I just want to buy the right buggy so I dont regret it later.

[Got Speed]

thecatfish- What? I've never heard that. Maybe they have stopped making new H7 kits but not the PBS and PCR. Parts are still easy to find for the H7 Pro. Especially on ebay. Half of the H7 parts are for the C-Hub H7. Trust me I've owned a storm and it isn't far superior to the H7. I think the quality and features are better on this than the storm. The only thing I liked about the storm over this is that the diff gears were spiral cut everything else on the H7 is equal or superior.

[gs_storm2003]

I had a quick question if anyone could help me out. I bought a new hyper pcr rtr the shocks on the thing I dont know what to do with when you press down on the buggy it almost stays all the way down the shocks only lift the chassis maybe 1/4 inch back up after you compress them I thought that they might be low on oil from the factory so I put 40w in the front and 35w in the back still not much difference I dont know what to do to get my shocks to do what they are supposed to do

[Got Speed]

gs storm2003- Did you put enough spacers on the shocks? Add a few more on top of the spring to raise the ride height. You don't want the suspension to be all the way raised up but if it is only 1/4 inch add some untill it sits where you like it.

[Gyro Gearloose]

The front and rear outdrives(Universals/dogbones) should be approximately level(horizontal).

[thecatfish]

Is the jr racing z650m good enough for steering in the h7 pro?

[Got Speed]

thecatfish- Sorry, I don't know any specs on the JR servo and have never owned one but I would say anything with .2 sec speed and 110 oz/in torque is enough to turn the wheels and for playing with but really to get a good racing servo you should have .12 or less and 175 oz/in torque or more. In any class vehicle I've ever driven on the track I have found a good servo just makes a huge difference. When I first got my H7 a few months ago I was using a 645 MG to hold me over till I got some more money for another servo. Personally I like Airtronics they are fast, powerful, and very good quality. You pay for it though too unfortuanatly. Some people do not like Hitec but I have had good luck with them and usually use them as an inexpensive throttle brake servo. If you get there 5945 though it is a good race-worthy steering servo but it too, like the Airtronics, is at the top of the price range. If you go on ebay you can find some really good deals on them sometimes though.

[gs_storm2003]

I do have spacers in. it is like the shocks dont have enough compresion to pick the car back up to level

[Got Speed]

Could you post a picture?

[Jeff Cain]

Are the pillow ball caps too tight and causing some binding?

[gs_storm2003]

nothing is binding they just dont have any umph to push the buggy back up, if you push it down to watch it raise it is real slow and doesnt bring the dogbones back to level. I have a cam I will try to get pictures of the ride height and the amount of spacers I have in, I have 10 days to get this fixed and fill my diffs (never done this before) 1st race is the 23rd

[Got Speed]

For the diffs it is pretty easy. Just take them out and clean the grease/oil off the gears. Then fill the diff up a little past the pins that the spider gears run on. Then put it all back together.

[Chevy-SS]

hey storm2003, I got the same buggy. Mine is only two weeks old. The suspension is pretty firm. I just tested mine on the bench. If I push it down, it will come back up to about 1/2 inch clearance. This may not sound like much, but I have practiced at the race track and it jumps beautifully, landing nicely after catching some pretty serious air.

I have two spacers on each shock. Without the spacers I would have about 1/4 inch clearance.

Sunday is race day. ;)

[thecatfish]

I know some of you guys hate these kind questions, but... Is anyone running a wasp or p3 with a 15 tooth cb in there H7? The track we use has a really long straight and few jumps. I was just wondering what kind of top end I could get with this setup. Also what pipe should I use with the wasp .26? Thanks in advance.

[gs_storm2003]

I have only had mine around in the yard for break in I dont dare take it anywhere to get it set up because I would bottom out over the smallest whoops. I dont see any leaks and they arent losing any oil

[p.n.e]

this may sound silly, do you have springs in the shocks? are the fronts in the front and the rears in the rear? try more preloads. i have 3mm in the rear and 9mm in the front

[gs_storm2003]

a friend came over and looked at it. the problem was I had air in the shocks but all is fixed now and the first race is in 5 days WOOHOO :D

[prevelige]

Guys, are the bearing on the diff outdrives 8x16? I had one detonate, and the pinion stopped lining up with the diff gear. I need to replace it, but my LHS closed the doors so I need to mail order one. Thanks.

[finny]

What reciever packs does the Htper 7 RTR take?

[Gyro Gearloose]

Either hump or flat will work, finny. The buggy should've come with the battery 'cap' for both types, my RTR PBS did.

[finny]

Thanks.

[gzarate]

Hi There.
I just bought the 2 speed tranny for my Hyper 7 and ran it on asphalted parking lot with a set of street tires. it was just great :D .
I race against a friend with same car, but one speed tranny and a 17 teeth pinion on it.
It was not so big difference between them on a 130 ft. straight.

Any comments about this tranny on off-road tracks?? I would like to try it on them next weekend.

[HIRISK]

Hi Guys,

I have just bought a used PCR Hyper 7 and am concerned it may be missing a few bits required to properly mount the lay down steering servo.

It seems like there is only holes for the servo to be bolted to on one side??

I looked on the OFNA website and found a link here www.ofna.com/manuals.html for the PCR laydown servo's, but the link does not work.

Does anyone have this PDF they can email me or even some photos of their PCR's steering servo set up.

Thanks in advance.
Shaun.
wiltons@bigpond.net.au

[gs_storm2003]

I dont have a pic but maybe this will help the part of the steering servo mounted toward the front wheels gets mounted just like a stand up servo, screwed in from the top of the servo(or say the drivers side),the part pointing toward the back of the car sits on the back side of the servo mount and is screwed in from the back side(or passenger side) I hope that helps

[evild]

I looked on the OFNA website and found a link here www.ofna.com/manuals.html for the PCR laydown servo's, but the link does not work.

Use this: http://www.ofna.com/pdf/PCRservos.pdf

Looks like the link was typed wrong.

[HIRISK]

Thanks for the replies guys,

All sorted!!

Cheers,
Shaun.

[Polk]

Hey guys
Im seriously looking into buying a PBR RTR soon. Any reccomendations/comments/etc about it? Any parts easily break that I should order spares for when I order?

Thanks

P.S
Copy and paste this link into your browser, in Australia (where im ordering it from) they call it the Hobao Hyper PBS RTR, from what I can tell its the same thing but with the PCR engine head, and no starter box included. Thanks
http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=rmshyperpbsrtr_detail::rms,d:,p:,s:,i:rmshyperp bsrtr.jpg,t:&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=prdetail&us=1086073205-28&kn=pr.pr-land-203-7-255-001&**

[Gyro Gearloose]

You're going to love it, Polk. It's a very durable competitive buggy. I haven't heard about much of anything breaking except maybe shock shafts and I haven't seen that problem posted in a while on any forums.

Spares are always good though, the general stuff, wing, clutch, shock set...I have all those(Bought them on eBay) and they're still in the bags months later. :cool:

I haven't raced mine though, I just tear around in general and scare myself... ;)

That looks like a PBS in the link...

[Polk]

Heh heh cool. Durable is good - I own a RC10GT :p

Looks like my mind is made up then! I will be ripping out the stock electronics and selling them with the GT so I can put my MX-3 in the PBS. Is a 90oz. servo alright to start out with? Any other things I should order while Im at it?

Thanks for the help dude.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Is a 90oz. servo alright to start out with?

Yeah, that's about 40 more ounces of torque over the standard servos that come with it. It'll be adequate.
Just make sure the servo saver nut over the spring isn't cranked up too far, you want it just so it's on the threads all the way and not rubbing or close to the chassis, it'll still 'give' at 80 ounces or so.

I'm still using the cheap servo on brakes/throttle, and a 106 oz Hitec 925 on steering.

[contact]

im sure this is covered elsewhere... just way too much digging to find...

diff setup... my prc came with front and centre spider diffs and a normal rear diff (i assume they are the same in the states) i went 50000wt centre and 7000wt front and 1000wt rear... they all feel the same to me (if anything the rear is heaver than the rest!!)

what oils are people running to get effective drive (on loose tracks)

[PuppyChow]

I need to know what the internal drive ratio is for an Ofna HYPER7 (PCR/PBS/etc). We all know how to get an external drive ratio. i.e. divide spur teeth by clutch-bell. But what most 1/8 makers neglect is to tell you what the ratio of the front and rear gearboxes are. Unless somebody knows what the Hyper7's internal ratio is, at least, tell me how to find out.

Example: To find the final ratio on my XXX4, I have to know that the INTERNAL drive ratio of the car is 2.10. Now that I know that, I take 92 (spur) divided by 20 (pinion) = 4.60 (external drive ratio). Now multiply INTERNAL ratio by external ratio: 2.10x4.60=9.66:1. There, 9.66 is the final ratio.

i=2.10, s=92, p=20 = (s/p)i = 92/20 x 2.10

On the Hyper7, I counted 46 (spur), 13 (clutch), so 46/13=3.54 (Primary Ratio).What about adding in the extra reduction from the gears in the front and rear boxes? It would be 3.54xWHAT=Final Ratio

What is the tooth count for the 'crown' gear and the diff ring gears? (Front and back if different?)

Once I have those numbers, how would I go about finding out the internal drive ratio so that I can calculate a chart of ratios with every possible clutch/spur combo..

(I have PCR Pro by the way, I don't know if the different H7 variants are geared the same)

[Jeff Cain]

crown gear is 43
pinion gear is 13

[SN VipeR]

But what most 1/8 makers neglect is to tell you what the ratio of the front and rear gearboxes are

They at least allow us to open the diff case and see for ourselves, so they're not all that evil. ;)

[savageP3]

is the hyper 7 PCR PRO any good?

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

Of course it is, it's the best buggy OFNA sells. BTW, what's the other name that they import from? I know one is Ho Bao, but is the second one Hang Nor or something? I think that's it

[Gyro Gearloose]

Hong Nor, maker of the 9.5 buggy, LD3 TC. Maybe others too, I'm not sure.

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

Cool, thanks.

However, after seeing previews of the new XB8 from X-Ray, and being a big X-Ray/Serpent, fan my Hyper PCR might be up for sale in the near future.....

[PuppyChow]

If the numbers for the front and rear gearboxes are correct, then here is a usefull chart for gearing the Hyper 7 (I have the PCR - PRO).

http://www2.freepichosting.com/Images/421512627/0.jpg

[savageP3]

anyone looking to sell or trade a buggy? im in the market.

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

I might be, depending on how good the new X-Ray buggy is...but not for a while

[mavrickhunter]

is there a company that makes orange rock guards.

[Got Speed]

I think one of the Ofna buggys has orange rock guards not sure on that though. If you could find white you could always die them too.

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

If any of their other buggies have orange guards, there's no way they'll fit, none of them are interchangable, especially with the Hyper.

[fezzy]

Actually the Kyosho MP7.5 has parts which are interchangeable with the Hyper7, The dirt gaurds are one of them.

[contact]

no one for diff oils advice?

[Jeff Cain]

im sure this is covered elsewhere... just way too much digging to find...

diff setup... my prc came with front and centre spider diffs and a normal rear diff (i assume they are the same in the states) i went 50000wt centre and 7000wt front and 1000wt rear... they all feel the same to me (if anything the rear is heaver than the rest!!)

what oils are people running to get effective drive (on loose tracks)

I'm running 5k in front, 7k center, and 1k rear.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Effective drive on loose tracks is a challenge no matter what, it's has a lot to do with tires and driving style as much as diff lubes, because face it, it's loose out there!(my track is the same, hardpan with fine loose dust/gravel on top, a nightmare).
Are you getting beat badly or is everyone having a hard time hooking up?

[potatoe_bird]

I have a hyper 7 pbs and I want to start racing it. I bought a rex .21 today for $156 shipped. :D I got a killer deal on it. Here is the list of stuff I plan on getting...

New starter box
mx3 fm radio
cf top plate (modify a pro one)
cf diff cover thing lol
cnc shock towers
kyosho blue springs
new pipe
new body

What else should I get? What pipe would be good for that engine?

[potatoe_bird]

Sorry for the double post, it won't let me edit. :confused:

How hard is it to modify a cf pro topplate? I am looking at picking up a dremel at homedepot with accesories for $60, would that work to cut cf? Also, the brake linkages are starting to tick me off. They flip around and lock up the brakes. :mad: Is it possible to use mbx5 linkages? Preferably anything but kyosho, they charge way too much for their products.
I can't wait to get my rex. :cool: But, I have to go to the lhs and pick me up a mx3 first.

[potatoe_bird]

I'm going to make some parts for my pbs with cf. I'm going to order it from penguin, how thick should I get it?

[SN VipeR]

Cutting carbon fiber with a dremel is no problem. You just need lots of reinforced cutting wheels. Also cover your mouth and nose or even better have a hoover running right next to where you cut to take in the dust. It's very dangerous (the dust).

I'd get 2.5mm thick carbon. Check out my pics a few pages back for the carbon parts I made.

[Gyro Gearloose]

Cut it outside if you can, even a standard vac can't filter the fine stuff, and yes, it is quite unhealthy for you, quite.

[Got Speed]

potatoe bird- I would suggest getting the front and rear alum. hinge pin carriers. The plastic ones seem to be the weakest parts on the buggy. From what I've seen and heard the mugen clutch springs are stiffer than the stock ones and will give you a little more bottom end snap. As for the throttle linkage I use a Mugen one and it is way better than the stock peice. It works great.

[PC2K]

:( I've not been able to run my PCR Pro for the last 3 months now, no sooner had i managed to get my engine started up (cos i was trying to start it without opening up the throttle... duh!!!!) than i'd completely killed the starter motor.

Its near impossible to get hold of the replacement motors it seems, i've since bought one of the aeroplane starter thing, but havent got the wheel for it yet, and ive also just ordered a pull starter for it seeing as i yanked the original one right off.

Its a great introduction into Nitro isnt it, half the chassis missing from the kit, $800 spent to get it complete, and its done about 800cm's :D

Should have the pull starter in a weeks time, and im also told that a starter motor should be in stock soon, and im thinking of getting a wheel for the rotor starter thing anyway, so knowing my luck, i'll have 3 choices all arriving at the same time. I'd just be glad to get the thing moving before winter comes again!!
we only get 2 days of nice weather* a year in the UK, and i wanna take full advantage!!

*nice weather meaning its not bucketing it down and you can just see the sun behind a rather cloudy sky ;)

[Got Speed]

PC2K- If you were using a single 12V motor box like the Ofna 10250 or 10255 then you can put the old backplates off your burned up motor on the airplane motor. I ended up doing that a while back after dropping my box. It landed right on the motor and didn't work right after that.

[PuppyChow]

Has anybody experimented with overdrive in their 1/8 buggy yet? I've been running a Losi XXX4 Graphite + for nearly a year now, and ever since I started, I used the smaller pulley for the front diff. This makes the front wheels spin ever so slightly faster than the rears. At the track I run at, front overdrive makes the XXX4 handle beautifully.

Could a 1/8 buggy benefit from this also? I was thinking about trying it out by getting a diff gear with 1 less tooth for the front. Are there any reasons why this would be a good or bad idea?

Please advise
'bw'

[Got Speed]

I know the Mugen buggy has a slightly smaller diff in the front. I have no idea if it is possible for the PCR.

[dai44]

where is the cheapest price for the hyper 7 buggy on the internet? by the way this is the RTR www.dms-racing.co.uk priced at £225.00.

[KyoshoKev]

Hi...

i got a problem with my PBS .. my rear dog bone keeps falling off.... its only the right hand side.. the left hand side is fine.....


the Pivot Ball's seems to be adjusted the same amount....

anyoe else have the same problem? a solution?

[Got Speed]

KyoshoKev- I had this problem with my GT back when I had it. I don't know if it is the same problem or not but make sure the suspension dosn't travel too far when the wheels are off the ground.

[KyoshoKev]

but make sure the suspension dosn't travel too far when the wheels are off the ground.

how do i do that? wat can i do to prevent that?

thx :o

[Gyro Gearloose]

I've heard of that problem. Have you fooled with any of the adjustments before? It'd be best if you took a real close look by setting the buggy on a flat suface at eye level so you can really get a good look from behind to make sure it's sitting the same on each side.

[Got Speed]

Did you take limiters out or readust those little screws on the arms?

[gs_storm2003]

I have a hyper 8 port that will run fine while I am warming up before a race but a few laps into the race when I get on the brakes hard it will stall I have tried to turn up the idle screw and that doesnt seem to help, maybe I didnt take it up far enough but the idle was getting to be way to high and that cant be right either. the car and motor are new (it was broke in properly) and I just cant seem to find the right tune. will an air leak cause this? I have heard that the carbs in these are prone to that if so how would I fix the leak? any suggestions would be great I am fairly new to this and I am ready to stomp the crap out of this car because no matter how well I am driving it is sure to make me finish last(always the cars fault never the owners). ok thanks

[KyoshoKev]

Did you take limiters out or readust those little screws on the arms?


i didnt adjust anything from stock, till the dogbone fell out...

after it fell out... i screwed in the top arms (to give more camber) this should tighten so the dog bone should stay in place more...

i lost the ofna dogbone now... i have now put in a kyosho dogbone from my inferno... i'll see how that goes :cool:


p.s what are limiters? :o

[KyoshoKev]

I have a hyper 8 port that will run fine while I am warming up before a race but a few laps into the race when I get on the brakes hard it will stall I have tried to turn up the idle screw and that doesnt seem to help, maybe I didnt take it up far enough but the idle was getting to be way to high and that cant be right either. the car and motor are new (it was broke in properly) and I just cant seem to find the right tune. will an air leak cause this? I have heard that the carbs in these are prone to that if so how would I fix the leak? any suggestions would be great I am fairly new to this and I am ready to stomp the crap out of this car because no matter how well I am driving it is sure to make me finish last(always the cars fault never the owners). ok thanks


dont adjust any of your engine screws just yet....

check both clutch bearing first...

let us know how u go :D

[Gyro Gearloose]

what are limiters?


I think he means the droop screws, the allen grub screws on the lower arms that hit the chassis and set the droop(how far the arms are allowed to hang down "ie droop"). :)

[Got Speed]

KyoshoKev- I was talking about the droop screws but some people run limiters instead like on 1/10 trucks. They are just little plastic washers that go under the piston on the shock shaft that only let it extend so far.

gs_storm2003- Does the engine have enough compression. Worn out engines will flame out once they reach operating temperature.

[gs_storm2003]

the buggy and engine are brand new (hyper pcr) it has been broke in and run for about 20 min total because it always flames out. the clutch bearing is good. I did notice that when I brake the carb closes a little I was told it shouldnt move from the position it is in when you are not on the gas, maybe it has to do with my linkage I am not sure and dont really no how I would find the right adjustment on that. one other thing I was told is that the plug may be to cold I was running an os a5 plug so I just picked up some os 8 plugs.I have a 2 sundays to get it right so I dont have to embarass myself again at the track

[Buggyracer28]

Ok, on my other forum this guy might sell me a hyper 7 pbs with mx-3 for maybe around 225+. The engine has about 1/2 gallon through it. BUT i was origionally gonna get one from my lhs for $450 and i get a 10% off card but i would still have to pay 31.50 for tax. Which one should i get? Im probably getting the used one. Plus its already broken in. I heard those hyper 8 ports are a huge pain to break in.

[KyoshoKev]

Hi...

this is for the PBS rtr...

i wanted 1 set of front cva and 1 set rear cva...

but I accidentally bought 2 sets of front CVA's....

my question is will the front cva fit the rear?

I heard that people intentially run the front cva on the rear... coz it is a little longer... is this right?


p.s is there anything special that i need to do to convert the rear dogbone to cva's?
thanks in advance for any advice

cheers

[potatoe_bird]

I am almost done prepping my buggy for the track. Can anyone host the pics for me?

[soslo]

gs.. Adjust your throttle linkage so your carb closes all the way. When you hit the brakes, it causes the carb to shut off all the way and that may be why your motor is stalling. Your idle screw is probably set too low also, but adjust the linkage 1st.

kev.. The cva's will fit. You should try the universals though. They hold up much better! :)

Got Speed.. Push your arms to the upmost travel and look at the dogbones in the cups. The dogbones should not be at the end of the cups. Double check your other adjustments.
I beveled the chassis under the arms for more travel, so the droop screws are not even used, much less any limiters on the shocks.

Buggy racer.. If the used one is in decent shape, get it. But go through it to be on the safe side and be sure to get the manual. Parts are not all that expensive for the Hyper.
Otherwise get the new one. A new buggy is always nice anyway if you can afford it.
Any good engine is always hard to break in. Just use a hair drier to heat it up before you try to start it. Put some after run oil in it also so it will be lubricated until you do get it started. If a new engine spins over freely, it won't last long.

[gs_storm2003]

thanks soslo I will try it but 1 more quick question. adjust the linkage so that all the travel is gone out of it but still leaving the small opening I can see when I look down into the carb right? that should stay in one plaec whe I am idleing or on the brakes right? if I can get it to stay still I will work on the idle screw after that. also I was thinking that I wasnt getting full throttle out of the car because the carb wasnt opening I am betting that is the linkage also. thanks again I will give it a go.

Buggy racer the 8 port wasnt that hard to brake in as long as you have a bump box and not the plastic one that comes with the rtr it isnt very strong

[KyoshoKev]

reagrding my rear dogbone falling out....

i put about a 1 to 2 mm fuel line on either end of the dogbone... the thing stays in tight now... no sign it will come out... :D

no need for expensive cvas/universals!!!! yaaaay!!!!

p.s wats the difference between CVA/CVD/Universals?? :o

[sofa]

Guys, I just bought a PCR kit and I was wondering what is the recomended oils for the diffs and the shocks.

Thanks

[methodman]

Hi all.


i`ve got a Hyper 7 sport, and after about half a tank of fuel, the exhaust comes away from the pink manifold tube, so i have to keep replacing the cable ties everytime i go out with it...


any ideas???


regards, aaron

[TC3B3L3T3GT]

Buy an OFNA 063 or 086 1 piece pipe. Or, use a screwdriver to flange the pipe and the manifold, making it harder to slip off.

[methodman]

Yup,

i`ve now got an RB pipe and manifold on it, looks good,more low down power, and screams very loud!...


problem solved.................. :D


Aaron.

[KyoshoKev]

anyone want CHEAP CHEAP CHEAP ofna/ho bao hyper 7 parts...

www.rcmart.com

rear cva's $19!!!!! compare to over $40 at nitrohouse

a set of ho bao blue springs $5!!!!!


wow this stuff is cheap!!!!!!!!!!

[Got Speed]

KyoshoKev- Wow! Thanks
There isn't really any functional difference between CVAs/CVDs/Universals. They serve the same purpose. Usually the CVDs have a bell with the joint that goes into it and a pin through the bell and joint. Universals/CVAs are like the front driveshafts on your buggy.

[KyoshoKev]

hmmm rcmart just changed the price of the hobao blue springs hahahahahaha

someone must of bought too many!!! :D :rolleyes: :D :eek: :cool:

their product description aint all that accurate, they call the spider a torsen :rolleyes:

do your research first on tower, then goto rcmart to buy the stuff.

[Got Speed]

KyoshoKev- I noticed that too. I was looking at the rear CVAs and it went from $16 to $20.

[KyoshoKev]

there adding new parts everyday~!!!!!


yeaaaaaaaaaaaaah


hopefully they stock all parts eventually.. neva have to get ripped by tower again.

[BlackWolf]

Guys, I just bought a PCR kit and I was wondering what is the recomended oils for the diffs and the shocks.

Thanks

Hey sofa. The H7 PCR Pro Kit is an awsome machine, you'll like it. I have a question though. Ofna made a boo boo and released the first batch of PCR Pro kits with a couple missing parts. The caster adjustment c clips and parts of PN: 19032, the C-Hub bushings. I faxed the receipt to Ofna and they made good on the parts, it took about a week.

I was just wondering if you were missing these parts also.

[PuppyChow]

Uh oh, I hope this isn't the end of member participation in this forum. Long live the Hyper 7 buggies!
:)

[fezzy]

Not at all, Most people use the OFNA Forum though :cool:

[Got Speed]

Has anybody ever had a problem with the heat of the engine going through the chassis and into the receiver box? Yesterday right before the races started I set my buggy down on the starter box and pulled the trigger a little and nothing happened. I tried moving the wheels and all too but nothing happened so I shut it down and took the rx box top off and changed batteries and unplugged and plugged the connecters back in. Then I noticed that the whole box was hot. So I let it cool down and then the rx worked fine. Has anybody had a problem with this? If so, how the heck am I supposed to keep heat from reaching the rx?

[SN VipeR]

I keep my receiver suspended in foam on all sides of the box. This also prevents radio glitches due to vibrations. If the problem persists, you could put some aluminium foil between the chassis and the box. That may help.

[Got Speed]

I've got foam in there all around the receiver. I don't think the alum. foil will help because the heat would just go right through it. Maybe I should try some different kind of foam?

[SN VipeR]

Oh yeah I made a little thinking mistake there. :)
That's really strange. I've never had that problem with my hypers. I've never really checked the receiver temperature before though but I can't remember my RC-box being warm and so far I've burnt my fingers on everything that can get warm on the car.
The air inside the foam should be a real good isolator. Maybe something else is wrong and it gets warm by itself. Something with the batteries or servos maybe. I'd "simulate" a driving session (steer, brake, accelerate) for five minutes or longer and see if it gets warm by itself.
If not, then some sealing paper may help. The stuff you can use for sealing manifolds on side exhaust engines or for making brake pads I mean. Your hobby shop should have that.

[Got Speed]

Yeah, I though the foam would work just fine too. I'll try letting it sit on the floor while moving the controls. Hopefully I get this fixed before next friday. lol I've tried twice now to enter the races but the first time I kept breaking the plastic hinge pin carriers. Now this lol.

I just recently got the mugen 1.1mm clutch springs and, wow, they make so much of a difference. I was running a P5 with the stock springs and noticed that the engine would kind of bog when going real slow after getting on the throttle but would scream when I had the speed up a little. After I got the springs it has power from a standstill all the way up. So if you just got your H7 I highly reccomend them. I found them on ebay for only $5 too.