Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[SN VipeR]

I've bought a set of those springs along with new clutch shoes and I'll install them soon. My stock clutch with a few modifications (big holes!) is still running okay after one year and 30 litres of fuel but I could use a little more bottom-end.
Did you modify your clutch shoes in any way? My clutch began to be really bad, meaning it engaged much too soon, after about 5-10 litres. I should probably have changed the springs to new ones but I just drilled holes into the clutch shoes until it worked great again. :D

[Got Speed]

Yeah, I love them. I'm going to get some alum. shoes and try them out too.

[lbeek]

Hey people...ive never had a nitro buggy before and im planning on getting one here in a few weeks. Ive been looking at the Hyper 7 PCR RTR and it looks like a really sweet buggy. I was just wondering if someone who has one could tell me whether or not its a nice buggy...and if there is a good site I could order parts for it if I break it..which im sure I will eventually.

[SN VipeR]

The Hyper is a good buggy indeed. It doesn't have some of the top-of-the-notch features such as a Mugen or Kyosho has but it's much more affordable and can be just as competitive. There are even a few running at the World Championship right now in Sweden. Pics here: www.neo-buggy.net .

A good replacement parts source is KP RC (http://web.tampabay.rr.com/khageman/). They buy kits and strip them for parts and you save a lot because originally packaged replacement parts are much more expensive. They also sell their parts at ebay. www.towerhobbies.com also has most of the parts in stock.

By the way, although it's very time-consuming, reading this entire thread will help you a great deal with your Hyper. Enjoy!

[ChadsOfna]

I am still building my Monster Truggy. I had a queastion about the ring gears in the Hyper 7. Are the ring gears the hardened steel updrages from the Ultra style buggy? I keep chipping and stripping the ones currently in the truck. The upgraded hardened steel piece from Ofna is $22.00+ I have found a whole diff assembly from a Hyper 7 Pro on ebay with pinion for cheaper. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks
Chad
Indy, IN
MB Blazer/MBX/Worlds "thing"

[SN VipeR]

Yes they are hardened. I've never broken a set before and I've ran my Hyper for more than 30 litres now. I'm not sure they're compatible with the MBX though as those cars are from different manufacturers (HoBao/Hong Nor).

[KyoshoKev]

yeah very strong, mine are still in perfect condition, also there is no need to mess around with shims. coz they fit perfect without shims, well mine does anyway

[KyoshoKev]

Does anyone know if i change from 22deg Hub Carries to 20DegC hub carriers if i need to change the top arms?

i'm pretty sure 22deg -> 17deg you have to change.

thanks

[SN VipeR]

No you don't have to change the top arms. They're the same for 22° and 20° caster blocks.

[Racin Rev]

Does anyone else have this problem? My hyper has steering problems. I have a hi tech 180 servo, ought to be enough but it has trouble hauling the steering around. everything seems to be loose enough but it is sluggish. it tends to bind when the wheels are off of the ground also. the only other guy with a hyper at our track has similar problems.

[SN VipeR]

Check to see if the steering moves freely. Detach the wheels and servo arm and move it around. I've had to file off quite a bit of plastic (upper arm carrier) to get mine to move with no drag. When I upgraded to the pivot ball front it got even worse. The plastic joint between the diff box and the upper arm carrier (only on pbs) had to be relieved of 2mm of plastic until the ackermann would move without touching it. I've also had to dremel off some of the upper arms so the nut from the linkage screw wouldn't touch them.
If your steering moves freely, try to set the linkage on the servo arm further inwards. I'm having the same problem right now (understeer) and I figure I mounted it too far out on the servo arm. Like this it's faster but with less power (leverage). I'll try to solve my problem and report back how I did it. You can also try to adjust the servo saver to make it harder but not too far or you risk a servo failure. If all else fails a stronger servo might be due. I've seen a pic of a buggy modified to hold a 1/5th servo. :eek:
Also, sometimes dirt gets stuck in the steering bellcranks and binds it or its ballbearings up.

[Sherminator]

What diff oils weights are you guys running? i was using: 1000F 7000C 1000R, it seemd like a pretty good combo but then i talked to nitrohouse and they said to put 3000 in the front and 5000 in the center. with the 1000 mine corners good, what will it do if i put 5000 in the center instead of 7000?

[SN VipeR]

Read through this thread, we've discussed oils several times.

I've got 5k, 7k and 1k.

[RC10racer89]

I was looking in to getting an 1/8 scale buggy, and was considering the Hyper 7 pro. Can anyone tell what the difference between the Hyper 7 pcr pro, and the regular Hyper 7 pro?

[BlackWolf]

Read through this thread, we've discussed oils several times.

I've got 5k, 7k and 1k.

Yeah, but if you're using the spider diff in the center, then you should run 5000 instead. It will be nearly the same when it comes to stiffness because the spider unit has more moving parts coming in contact with the diff oil.

Rule of thumb is: Run diff oil that is about 20-25% thinner in spider units for same effect as thicker oil in a regular 4 gear diff.

[SN VipeR]

Good to know, thanks. I've figured something like this out myself, so I only applied very little oil at all into the spider diff. It locks up fine and also has held up fine until now.

Here's something new: I've edited a buggy-video from footage we shot at our track and from onboard-camera perspective. Enjoy:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/vidonoff.jpg

Onboard-offroad (7mb) (http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/vidonboardoffroadsmall.wmv)

Here's a wide shot of our Track, where the video takes place:
http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/gunzwilwide.jpg

[RC10racer89]

Very cool! I haven't seen an on board camera on an offroad before, only onroad. That was sweet! :D

[KyoshoKev]

I was looking in to getting an 1/8 scale buggy, and was considering the Hyper 7 pro. Can anyone tell what the difference between the Hyper 7 pcr pro, and the regular Hyper 7 pro?

depends on where u r getting it from..

pcr usually has lay down servo.. what else it has depends on where your getting it from..

cheers :D

[Grant Tokumi]

Well, I just now ordered this PCR Special Edition Hyper 7 RTR from Ultimate Hobbies since they had a Labor Day Special for $419.95. Free shipping to the continental 48 states. That seemed like just too good a price to pass up. Is that right?

http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p597.html

After years of racing 10th scale truck, this will be my first 8th scale. It was a tough decision. I've been spending alot this weekend on other necessities, so this unexpected buggy order will be just adding quite a punch into the bank account. I watched some awesome 8th scale racing this weekend. I read about this Ultimate Hobbies sale today. Called a friend who said that price is below cost. Free shipping.... Too many good things. Couldn't let it pass. I'm just trying to justify this purchase to myself if you can tell. Whew. I think the nerves are starting to calm down now. :) I'll start reading up on this forum to get more info on what else I'll need.

I'm assuming it comes with a starter box right? Thats what it say here:
http://www.ofna.com/hyper7-pcr.html

Here's some other questions too:
1. What radio does it come with? JR?
2. Is this one I got like the top of the line Ofna 8th scale buggy for racing? They seem to have so many different ones, its hard to tell. Violator, Ultra MBX, etc.
3. What is C-hub and PBS suspension? Is one preferred over the other? Looks like mine is the PBS one.

Thanks

[Got Speed]

Grant Tokumi-
1- sorry, I don't know
2- Yes and no. It is the same as the PCR Pro which is the top of the line ofna buggy but it dosn't have the Pro upgrades.
3- C-Hub is a kind of suspension that has a similar suspension design to a 10th scale truck. PBS stands for pivot ball suspension like the suspension on a lot of the monster trucks. It is really a personal preference. I like PBS myself and it seems that all the manufacturers are going with the PBS design on their later models.

It does come with a starter box too though not a great one it is enough for the stock engine.

[warden0503]

its the hyper 7 rtr buggy with the following upgrades

pbs and misc pcr upgrades

hyper 7 pcr pro kit is the top of the line, -
but for rtr its top of line

[Grant Tokumi]

Thanks for the replies. Its a bit disappointing to hear that the starter box is not very strong. The fact that is came with the starter box was one of the key features that got me looking into these OFNA Hyper 7s. I'm assuming it uses the single larger motor instead of the twin 550 size motors. I want to fit a 12volt gel cell battery in there. I guess worst case is I will just use the enclosure and put my own electronics in. Perhaps mount 4 motors in there...... :)

I've seen these Hyper 7s on the track and they go through some hard hits undamaged so I'm kind of assuming beef up type upgrades will not be necessary right?

[Grant Tokumi]

The track:
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/DSC00021sm.jpg

[KyoshoKev]

I've seen these Hyper 7s on the track and they go through some hard hits undamaged so I'm kind of assuming beef up type upgrades will not be necessary right?

no hop us necessary to make it stronger... maybe just the PRO shock towers, but the standard shocktowers are about 3mm thick and is as thick as the kanai shock towers anyway.


i got kanai shocks.... or u can ge even better 777 shocks (4mm shock shafts) :D

[Racin Rev]

where is that track Grant?

[Grant Tokumi]

Sandy Valley, Nevada. Around 1.5 hours south of Las Vegas.

http://www.outerlimitsraceway.com/

[Got Speed]

Grant Tokumi- They are dual 550 motors in the box. So far I have found that it is pretty durable out of the box. I think alum. hinge pin carriers are a must but since I have upgraded to those I have not broken anything. Except for those it seems to be a very solid design considering all the hard hits mine has taken. lol Looks like a nice track you have too.

[Grant Tokumi]

Dual 550 motors..... Perhaps shoving a 3rd motor in parallel in there might help out.

That is a nice track with lots of jumps. But it became a frustrating experience trying to make the triples with my RC10GT, while the 8th scales relatively cruised over them. I believe that was part of why I got the Hyper 7. :)

Thanks for the help. I'm sure I'll be asking more once I get the buggy.

[KyoshoKev]

hey fellow hyper 7 owners.

basically a questions for ofna owners who races and have all the good electronics.

how have you gone against kanais and mugens? have ure ofna been competitive?

my ofna hasnt been competitive at all. i drove friends k3, and it handles like its on rails. i not sure if it coz of my stock remote and servos.

cheers

[Got Speed]

I have not driven a K3 yet but I have driven an MBX-5 with a similar engine/elec. package. It felt a little more connected with the track than the H7 but he was also running tires a little more suited to the track. Ground handling is about the same IMO. It also seems to be a little pickier with suspension settings. When jumping though the Mugen seemed a little easier to correct. But otherwise it seems to be very comparable to the Mugen. I really like mine and race with K3s, MBX-5s, Storms, and other Ofnas. It holds its own just fine. I guess if you are a sponsored driver you may see a bigger difference. IMO it is a great race buggy up untill you start racing National A-Mains, lol. Which, btw the H7 has been winning some lately in Europe.

Just my .02

[gotspeed_2000]

hey fellow hyper 7 owners.

basically a questions for ofna owners who races and have all the good electronics.

how have you gone against kanais and mugens? have ure ofna been competitive?

my ofna hasnt been competitive at all. i drove friends k3, and it handles like its on rails. i not sure if it coz of my stock remote and servos.

cheers

I've raced against the MBX5's and some 7.5 k3's. My experience is that the Hyper 7 can hold it's own against the other buggies. Also, are you using the PBS set up or the C Hub suspension? In my opinion the PBS set up is a little hard to make consistent. Also, if you are using the RTR version with the stock servos, then that could also be the problem. When I first got my Hyper 7, I asked one of my friends who was running the kanai for a baseline set up. It worked for him, and so I tried it on my hyper 7 and it worked really well. He even drove my car for a tank and was pretty impressed. He runs a JP modified so he had a motor on me, but through the infield and the rough stuff, my car could keep up with his. Swap out the stock steering servo. That should help out a ton. Also, if you are running a rtr, clean out the diff grease and run some silicon oil in there instead. Also, if you can get your friends baseline set up for his K3, then try to use it on your car. It might help. Good luck.

[KyoshoKev]

i got c-hub upfront with 20deg 777 hub carrier and pbs rear (i converted my front pbs to chub)

i done the diffs 3/5/1 and also got K3 shocks, and got a competitive engine...

but the car just doesnt seem as stable...

anyway i'll try better servos and getting a m8 remote and try different toe/camber adjustments

p.s is there a good way to measure toe in/out with the PBS setup?

also on a very bumpy/rutted track is it better to use heavy weight oil or lighter oil? i run on bumpy and have 35Wt

thx

[Grant Tokumi]

I've also heard that the stock servo needs to be replaced. At my track, the 8th scale guys were talking about 80 wt oil in their shocks. They said heavier shock oils are more typical in 8th scale compared to 10th scale. I'll have to verify that once I get my buggy. What does 3/5/1 mean? Nevermind. I reread and it means 3000 wt in front diff, 5000 wt in center diff, and 1000 wt in rear diff right?

BTW, my Hyper 7 arrived last friday, but I wasn't home to sign for it, so they left a note saying the next delivery would be Monday. I could of had it this weekend already! I called UPS and had them deliver it to my workplace tomorrow so that I'd definitely get it.

[gotspeed_2000]

i got c-hub upfront with 20deg 777 hub carrier and pbs rear (i converted my front pbs to chub)

i done the diffs 3/5/1 and also got K3 shocks, and got a competitive engine...

but the car just doesnt seem as stable...

anyway i'll try better servos and getting a m8 remote and try different toe/camber adjustments

p.s is there a good way to measure toe in/out with the PBS setup?

also on a very bumpy/rutted track is it better to use heavy weight oil or lighter oil? i run on bumpy and have 35Wt

thx


I'm running the 20 degree front hubs, and they seem fine. Our track is pretty rutted, so guys who are usually nailing the throttle through the rough stuff are usually the ones having a hard time going straight. I usually look at the track before I run and choose a line that I can run in. On the straight, my car stays pretty level when I'm full throttle. When track gets a little more rough, I run full open on the areas I know I track through, then about 3/4 throttle through the really rough stuff. I'm running 40wt oil in my shocks in the front and 50 wt in the rear. 0 degree toe-in for the front. Ride height is set with the front just a tad bit lower than the rear. Servo saver is set pretty tight, and I usually use Either crime fighters, proline step pins, Proline knuckles, or Panther Komoodo's.

To me, the pbs set up is a little more inconsistent when going through the rough stuff due to possible caster changes due to arm twisting.

What kind of setup is your friend running? Are you close to what he is running? The buggys are very close in design, so figuring out the setup might not be far from what he is running especially since you liked running his car with his setup. You also might want to get rid of the rear pbs. I'm not to sure how that would affect the attitude of the rear suspension. Try running the standard setup.

Running thicker oil will slow the suspension action. If your car is rebounding to quickly, then a thicker oil will help. It'll help your car skate over ruts. But oil that is too thick and does not allow the suspension to react quickly enough will be bounced around quite a bit. On a smooth track I guess you could run 80wt, but for my track I wouldn't even consider it. Each track and driver needs a little bit of a different set up. Driver style is very important factor also.

Also, the steering servo is a possible factor as well. If you are using something with less than 90 oz's of torque then it could be a huge factor. My steering servo has a 140oz's and I like it. You can run more, but it's again up to you. I wouldn't run anything less than 90 myself.

Good luck.
Good luck.

[KyoshoKev]

thanks heaps.. i adjusted front toe to neutral ( maybe +ve 1deg) and rear toe a bit more inward toe. it helped alot. with stability, especialy exiting the corner.

i improved my times by about 2seconds. i suppose i just got to play with setup more. :D

thx for the advice.

kev

[KyoshoKev]

also people www.rcmart.com has heaps of cheap hyper parts.. CNC steering knuckles for only $29.90 .. i beleive nitrohouse sells them for $49?

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/default.php?cPath=595_426_586

[gotspeed_2000]

thanks heaps.. i adjusted front toe to neutral ( maybe +ve 1deg) and rear toe a bit more inward toe. it helped alot. with stability, especialy exiting the corner.

i improved my times by about 2seconds. i suppose i just got to play with setup more. :D

thx for the advice.

kev

Having too much toe out or toe in on a 1/8th buggy can cause adverse steering habits depending on your driving habits. Really glad to hear your car is handling better. Next thing to do is to play with ride height and shock oil. Just remember your baseline setting and see if it helps or makes your car more twitchy. Also try to remember how the changes you've made impacts your car incase you need to try a different setup at a different track. As for me, I just won an auction for a Kanai sirio engine. Hope to make this my race engine and use my S7's for practice or play. Again back to your setups, are you close to what your friend's Kanai is? If you are and are seeing the improvement, then you can use his knowledge as well. Good luck with your racing.

[KyoshoKev]

yeah i try copy him... he has camber setup so that the top of the tire is 3mm slanted inward.

which is around -2.5deg. and he got the rear toe holder -3deg.
i got the same k3 shocks, and put near the same oil. 35 to 40wt oil. and set the same preloads... i try more setups in the next few days,.

[gotspeed_2000]

Kev, try using a set of wheels that do not have tires mounted to them to set your camber and toe. The tires can through off your setup. I use a set of ofna wheels that I got for $18. It really helps not having to have the tire mess up your camber angles. Also don't forget the shock angles have a huge impact as well. Hope your testing goes well. Good luck and keep us posted.

[warden0503]

front cva keeps coming out of shaft in front universal and breaks the shaft - it only happens when the wheel is lifted upward, i adjust the shock positions to compensate, but i dont want to have to do that, cause its perfectly fine on the other side

the car is stock hyper 7 pbs, only couple quarts ran through and on my third shaft

is there a longer cva or can i adjust the pbs to move it closer to the diff

[Grant Tokumi]

Hyper 7 arrived at my workplace today. Woohoo!! Some coworkers were admiring. :). Now that I've had some time to look it over, I found out a few things:

1. Starter box is not even two 550 motors. Its a single motor, a little larger than the 550 motor. I have a feeling some mods are needed. But I'll give it a chance. I gotta love how light and molded the starter box is. And lots of room in there to add things.

2. The steering does have some clearance issues. It is rubbing. I remember someone saying that in here. I'll have to dig that up to see how to fix.

3. Steering servo does seem very weak. Granted there was some rubbing, the servo was slow (even with wheels off the ground), and the servo didn't seem to be able to make it to full throw on its own.

4. Wheel nuts were really loose. Couple were not even hand tight.

5. No instruction on where to put antanae, and after finding the spot by looking for the hole in body, the antanae tube does not sit snug in the hole at all. Its super loose and I can pull the tube right out of the vehicle. A set screw or something needs to be added to keep it tight in there. Maybe I'll find instructions somewhere on how to fix that. I did rummage through the paper work pretty quick.

6. Painted body is cool, but could they have at least masked out the windows???? My windows are all white like the rest of the body. At least its painted though. :)

Thats what I found so far. If I hadn't seen this vehicle in action firsthand, I would normally be very skeptical at this point. Finding all these little flaws, it seems to me that attention to detail is not there. I would be very concerned on oversights in the more important structural design of the thing. But having seen it, it seems all those types of bugs have been worked out.

Still a very nice looking buggy. I can't wait to take it out.

BTW, I notice I need a glow plug. What type of plug is good. They recommend a OFNA /Picco P-7S. I only have McCoy 59 so I'll need a trip to the LHS.

[Grant Tokumi]

Pictures to go along:

Inside of starter.
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/hyper7starter.jpg

Where's my windows?
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/hyper7body.jpg

[Racin Rev]

Grant Tokumi,

I got some tape and wrapped it on the antenna tube inside the radio box and i have never had it come loose. I would also tighten and lock tite everything!

[gotspeed_2000]

The starter box should be okay. I use the associated starter box for my mutant maxx that has the Hyper 8 port race engine and it starts it fine. The motor size of the starter box is a 750 which is the same size as the associated box engine. Only thing that would worry me about the starter is if you change engines and run something with a ton of pinch. If you do, heat the motor first then try starting it. Good luck with your new toy. btw, do yourself a favor and replace the steering servo. Also, there should be stickers to give a resemblence of a window in your box.

[Got Speed]

Grant Tokumi-

1-Hmm, strange. I could have sworn mine was dual 550s. Though I never really used it except to see if it would turn over my P5 which of course it didn't. My big 12V motor box even struggles to turn it over though.

2- Where is it rubbing? The two bolts on the steering link?

3- From my experience just about every RTR 1/8 scale buggy has a steering servo that it way too weak for racing maybe even bashing too.

4- That's what you get from $1.50 an hour labour. lol

5- Just get a little collar like they use for aiplane landing gear and put it over the part where the antenna tube goes into the radio box.

6- I hated that too. They should have window stickers in there. But personally I much prefer clear windows anyway.

The design seems pretty solid except for the hinge pin carriers. They seem to break four times easier than any other suspension part. The wheels if you hit pipes with them hard the spokes will crack. Otherwise the design is pretty solid IMO. One thing that will help performance alot is getting some mugen 1.1mm clutch springs. You can get them for $5 shipped off ebay.

[Got Speed]

Oh for anyone intrested I've got 2 sets of new in package hinge pin carriers w/set screws I'll sell for $21 shipped.

[eb4flys]

hey guys, just changed from EB4 pro to Hyper7 pro uk, fantastic car have to say the 8 port with the boost bottle that came with it flys and can hold against any of the other cars at the track, anyone know if there any titanium parts for the pro version out there anywhere, will post some pics later so you can see the difference between the uk pro and the us pro

[KyoshoKev]

underneath the top arm you will have to dremel. coz it will scrub.

the antenna i tie a knot on the top. never falls off

oh and remember the body may have clear film on it. so take this off before putting the stickers on it. didnt u get window stickers? mine came with window stickers.

also make sure the belt on the starter box belt is tight with the motor, otherwise the belt may strip.

have fun

[eb4flys]

Looking at that starter box it seems to have a space for 7.2x2 battries in, i dont know if its the same as the uk spec, if so you will get more ampage from a 12v motorcycle battrie and it fits straight in.
regarding the steering there was a problem on alot of the cars, what had happend was that the screws on the steering slider had been put on upside down and rubbing, all screws on the slider should face down. included in my instruction manual was a piece of copy paper with this on.your right about the steering servo, i would buy another and keep the stock one for a spare throttle/brake servo. i dont know if you have the laydown servos?? if you do move the linkage down one hole on the servo horn, makes a huge difference on response time, you may have to adjust your end point on your transmitter to compensate for this.
you should have window stickers with the shell, if not just claim at your hobby store. all in all a graet car and they seem very solid compared to anything i have raced before and our local track is pretty tough. :eek:

[Got Speed]

eb4flys- No titanium parts that I know of. Most of the upgrades are all Ofna parts. I had one of the buggys that the steering screws were upside down.

[SN VipeR]

I got some tape and wrapped it on the antenna tube inside the radio box...

I did this once and it cost me a qualifying run. A silicone based glue (shoo goo or similar) will keep the antenna in place just fine and won't be hard to remove at all. (I did use some crappy tape though so you might just be fine.)

I also had to dremel the front upper arms so the steering links didn't touch.
I'm also using Mugen 1.1 springs. They're great! A good clutch setup can make you think you have a new engine. :)

[Grant Tokumi]

Here's what I just did to secure the antannae.

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/antannaeholder.jpg

I removed the antannae tube and wire from the holder so that I wouldn't drill through them, and then used a 7/64" drill bit to drill into the holder post. Just one side, I didn't drill all the way through both sides. Pulled the wire through again and put tube back, and then used a short 3mm screw as a set screw as shown in the picture (seems that 3mm is the normal metric screw used in this vehicle) to gently press the tube and hold it in place. It is strong enough where I could "slowly" lift the whole car off my table by just the antannae tube.

One down, few more fixes to go. :)

BTW, any word on what type of glowplug I should get for this Hyper 21 engine?

[Grant Tokumi]

BTW, thanks for all the tips so far.

[gotspeed_2000]

Did you start your buggy up yet?

[Grant Tokumi]

Nope didn't even start it up yet. Still need to fit my 12 volt gel cell batt into the starter box and wire it up, pick up a glow plug, and then I can think about starting the engine.

Other items are building/soldeing my receiver battery (using alkalines for now), and fixing that steering binding, but I think I can at least break in engine without those. And then before I take it to the track for driving it hard, I had better check more screws for tightness, and possibly fill diffs with the recommended oil. So many things to do!! :)

[SN VipeR]

Great idea Grant for the antennae. Might just do that myself. :)
However, I'd still suggest sealing it off somehow as dust or water might get in.

[Got Speed]

Grant Tokumi- I'd suggest a cold or medium heat plug. In my experiences with .21s hotter plugs are way too hot and will cause pre-ingnition/detonation.

[warden0503]

i use os 8 or mccoy 8

[Grant Tokumi]

OK, I'll looks for cold or medium plugs.

Tonights project was the starter box.

Before:
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/hyper7starter.jpg

After:
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/hyper7starterinterior.jpg

- Removed 6 cell battery braces. Couple screws and they come right off, and the 12 volt gel cell fits right in there.

- Unplugged the wire with the Tamiya connectors, to be replaced with my own wiring for the 12 volt batt. Bought a red and black binding post (shown on the exterior of the box) so I could have a 12 volt tap in the outside, and so I could charge the battery from the exterior. Installed that by the on/off switch. Had to remove a decorative front metal plate, otherwise I think it would of shorted the + and - on the binding post. Bought some spade terminal connectors like those already used in the starter box, and some ring terminals to hook up wires to the back side of the binding post. Used 14 gauge clear speaker wire and the ring and spade terminals to make the connections.

Works like a charm. I finally got to turn the engine over. But since it had no plug, it was easy to turn. I have yet to test the torque of the starter.

[eb4flys]

hey guys, just thought i would post a pick of my ride, this is the UK pro version, they travelled round all the UK tracks and came up with this as a result all i have to do now is get it dirty

[eb4flys]

does anyone know how to make the pic smaller, as when i download it says its too large, the only way to get it on here is thumbnail as you can see above

[methodman]

hi all heres my hyper, also in the UK!


aaron.

[eb4flys]

where are you in the UK methodman

[eb4flys]

heres a better pic of my hyper 7 pro UK

http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/uk%20pro.jpg

pic of my eb4 i raced at the weekend at a very wet track, took 6 hours to clean!!

http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/dirty%20EB4%20S2.jpg

[methodman]

er looks invisable!!


i`m in Loughborough, next to Nottingham and Leicester,

where are you mate? :)

[gotspeed_2000]

Took my hyper pro to the track yesterday. It was pretty fast, but had a hard end over end flip. Thought the car came through it okay, but later found out the RB airfilter had started to allow dirt into the engine. The piston and sleave are now toast. I guess I'm lucky atleast to have a spare piston/sleave/and rod so it wont be so bad. But the car handled nice today. Just finished rebuilding last night, and no other broken parts. Well, can't wait till next week. till then. . .

[Burban]

I've got a quick question for all you veteran hyper 7 guys. I've traded my savage for a hyper 7 pro. I'm trying to decide on a motor... I can't afford to go with any of the real big dogs, nor do I compete in any real sanctioned events. We have a group of about half a dozen of us that bash together regularly and occasionally a bit of racing at the club level. So, I'm trying to decide on a motor... hyper .21 8 port, or picco outlaw .26... both P/S motors as I want to retain that feature. I also need to know if my mugen 3 shoe flywheel/clutch is ok. My hyper has the quad brakes, and I don't know if the mugen will work, or if I need the OFNA hyper flywheel.

Any input you guys have would be great.

Dan.

[Racin Rev]

I would go with an os .21. it has good power, reliability, and price point. I would avoid the 8 port, the carbs are very tricky, picco's can be fussy too.

[Burban]

I thought about the OS RG but I think it may be a bit tame for my tastes. I do know that they are great reliable motors though. I'm not afraid to tackle the finikyness of the Picco. I'm new to buggies, but not nitro.

Thanks for the response.

Dan.

[Racin Rev]

in that case i think that i would go picco.

[eb4flys]

er looks invisable!!


i`m in Loughborough, next to Nottingham and Leicester,

where are you mate? :)

am in crawley west sussex you have any good tracks there worth visiting

[eb4flys]

hi dan,
the only prob about the picco is if you are racing at club level, you need to stick to a .21 motor to keep it legal, also the mugen flywheel should fit ok but you may only get a third of the clutch bell gear in contact with the main gear this is as im sure you know the rear brake getting in the way. good luck


I've got a quick question for all you veteran hyper 7 guys. I've traded my savage for a hyper 7 pro. I'm trying to decide on a motor... I can't afford to go with any of the real big dogs, nor do I compete in any real sanctioned events. We have a group of about half a dozen of us that bash together regularly and occasionally a bit of racing at the club level. So, I'm trying to decide on a motor... hyper .21 8 port, or picco outlaw .26... both P/S motors as I want to retain that feature. I also need to know if my mugen 3 shoe flywheel/clutch is ok. My hyper has the quad brakes, and I don't know if the mugen will work, or if I need the OFNA hyper flywheel.

Any input you guys have would be great.

Dan.

[eb4flys]

[QUOTE=methodman]er looks invisable!!


cant you see the pic? have a look at this (www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)

[Racin Rev]

eb4flys holy buckets! do you guys race in the rain?

[eb4flys]

when your in england you dont have any choice, but yep at our local track (http://www.3araceway.com) we race in any weather, as long as you waterproof everything it goes just fine and is a hell of a lot of fun :)

[SN VipeR]

...but later found out the RB airfilter had started to allow dirt into the engine...

Exactly how did the filter let dirt through? I'm curious as I use two of them myself and they seem to be the state-of-the-art in buggy racing.

I would avoid the 8 port, the carbs are very tricky...

Very true, my carb even adjusted itself! But slap on a Novarossi or RB carb and you'll be pulling even with almost anything the other drivers throw at you. This week-end I gave lots of RBs, Sirios, SHs and other top brands a good run for their money with my 8-Port Race that has more than 6 gallons through.

[gotspeed_2000]

The base of the airfilter itself must have been dislodged by the impact and it was sliding up and down on the metal inner sleave of the filter assembly. I have to admit that it was a pretty hard tumble, but now I am using the Motorsaver airfilter in my buggy instead of in my mutant. I put the rb filter in mutant now. The RB filter design is something that I wouldn't really recommend to others. Allowing the base piece to be able to slide up and down on the shaft even though it does snap into place does have a chance to move around thus allowing dirt to enter the carb. I have used air seal now at the base of the filter itself, but hind sight is 20/20. I honestly think I should've bought the OS airfilter assembly. Might have saved me around $100 in parts I had to use to rebuild my engine. Oh well, just use some air seal or something similiar around the base of the filter both on the outer and along the metal sleave to help prevent what happened to me. Good luck.

[SN VipeR]

By "base", do you mean the inner foam element? That is odd. How can that move around since it's slightly bigger than the place it's supposed to sit in? Was the top (orange round thing) of the filter loose? I assume you used original RB foam elements, inner and outer element oiled?
I've experienced that most of these kind of failures and problems result from the guy operating the product rather than the product itself.
If these filters were so bad then all the race drivers wouldn't use them and we would've heard more about it, so please don't take offense.

The motor saver is even worse in my opinion. I've used it and when the car fell on the roof even slightly, the screen that holds the inner filter would fall off. I was very lucky I didn't loose the inner element itself. Also, it does let lots of dirt in right at the inner element through that screen, when the outer element is actually supposed to take in most of the dirt. I recommend sealing the screen off with glue and somehow makeing sure that it holds its place if you want to continue using the Motor Saver.

[gotspeed_2000]

The orange base piece is the one that poped loose. Once it pops, it loses it's seal and can allow dirt in. The filter elbow stands pretty high and it's up against the body so when I fliped, it landed pretty hard on the body. It's my guess that the impact pop the orange base out. The orange end that is secured using the screw was set tight, it's the other end that can pop loose. I've been racing for quite a while and usually use RB or motor saver filters. You're right about the end cap coming off from time to time on the motor saver one. It's just a short term fix for me. I'm going to order the S tube for the filter from ebay so that the filter itself wont be so high and then give the RB another chance especially since I sealed it up using air seal of both the outer and inner base piece. You can try and pop your rb filter and see what I mean. It's not meant to do that, but I guess it was just bad luck for me. I know I had set it up correctly and that it was secured before I went racing. You can try and see if your's will pop loose. Put the end of the filter with the screw in your palm, then with your fingers on the other orange end you can simply press the two orange halves together to see what happened to me. It didn't take that much pressure to pop it loose. Again, it's just more than likely bad luck for me. I haven't had problems with the RB filters before, but never also had the filter sit up against the body so high before.

[gotspeed_2000]

Here's a picture of the base once it's poped. Keep in mind this was a new airfilter with only two runs on it.

[I_Like_F150s]

This topic caused quite a heated discussion on the Sgrid not too long ago. It seems that some (not all) of the RB filter kits included an instruction sheet stating that the filter base (the orange piece) must be glued. I think it should work correctly right out of the box, and that's why I don't run RB filters (but do run their engines (WS7)). O.S. (nice quality) and Power Racing Products (great price) filters are in my box now.

[gotspeed_2000]

This topic caused quite a heated discussion on the Sgrid not too long ago. It seems that some (not all) of the RB filter kits included an instruction sheet stating that the filter base (the orange piece) must be glued. I think it should work correctly right out of the box, and that's why I don't run RB filters (but do run their engines (WS7)). O.S. (nice quality) and Power Racing Products (great price) filters are in my box now.

Mines didn't come with instructions, neither have the one's I've run before. I knew that it could pop loose from prior experience, but didn't think that the chance of it happening was to high. I guess I was wrong. I'm in the process of resealing the airfilter base to the bottom cap right now. Thanks again for the info, and I agree that when you buy something, it would be nice for it to work out of the package.

[Racin Rev]

rb comes from where? France. nuff said!

[SN VipeR]

Oh my...
I'm really disappointed. I had no Idea that could happen. Luckily, I glued mine with silicone goop so no dirt would get in. In my instructions it did say to glue the filter elbow on, but not the filter itself. I'll check my rb filter rightaway if it has the same weakness.

I've found the Hyper body to be very hard on airfilters. There's just not enough space to mount one. It touches not only the body but gets pressed down to the brake linkage as well. Maybe the new Proline Crowd Pleazer body for the Hyper 7 will fix that. Gotta try this one out.

RB filters are the same as Novarossi filters and therefore not manufactured in France, as the engines. While the engines are from Italy, I guess the air filter's from Taiwan or somewhere.
Let's not get political here. I'm sure you haven't even been to France once.

[gotspeed_2000]

If you get the S tube from the PBS hyper it moves the air filter away from the body and to the side right above the radio box. Hind sight is 20/20 and I should've known better, but just chanced it any way. Hopefully this wont happen you to SNViper now that you also know what to look for. I like RB products, but was just disappointed that it failed me. Oh well, at least I still have a rebuilt S7 and a S5 to play with. Can't wait till next weekend when I go racing again. Hopefully nothing to bad will happen.

[eb4flys]

hi guys do any of you run a different carb on the hyper .21 8 port with the boost chamber, if so do you want to share some info,i find the standard set up does not give enough umph to keep up with the other guys at the track, also pipe choice, at present im using a navorossi 2006 inline, any other suggestions,only other thing i need is upgraded shocks (carbide or titanium) for the pro i keep snapping mine very weak
thanks michael (hyper .21 uk pro)

[Got Speed]

eb4flys- I can't help you with the carb but I know a lot of people are using mp 7.5 shock shafts in their H7 shocks. I am still running the stock ones since I havn't had any problems yet.

[gotspeed_2000]

I'm been using mines for a while and they are fine. Maybe the oil/piston combination are creating too much pack for the shafts to take. What oil/spring/piston combination are you running?
Also, what engines are the other people running at your track that you are comparing to your hyper? Also, what nitro percenatage are you using? More info might be helpful.

[Got Speed]

Does anybody have a good source for just the shock ends? I hate having to buy a pack of a bunch of crap I'll never use. Maybe a different brand has shock ends that will fit?

Thanks

[KyoshoKev]

www.rcmart.com should have

[Got Speed]

They don't have them individually. They only have them in apackage with the other little shock parts.

[gotspeed_2000]

Just bought a bunch of stuff off ebay today. Can't wait to get them in. I ordered a Werks adjustable racing clutch, Ofna JP2 pipe, extended machined chassis, and that darn S tube for the air filter.
Went to play yesterday, and boy was it a blast. My rebuilt engine ran good untill the clutch bearings went. I guess I shouldn't have run those aluminum clutch shoes. Other than that, it was a blast.

[KyoshoKev]

hi anyone know how to put bearings in the steering post? pics appreciated. the size i need are 6x10x3? how many do i need?

cheers
kev :)

[Got Speed]

Kyosho Kev- If you got the right ones all you should need to do is push the bushing out from the other side with something like an allen wrench then pop the new ones in.

So no one has used shock ends from a different vehicle? Something you can buy just the shock ends?

[KyoshoKev]

which part of the shock end do you need? unfortunalty they come with other parts, but still pretty cheap

the part that goes onto the rod and other plastic bits #87010

the part that screws onto the shockbody and shock body #87007

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_586&products_id=9754

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_586&products_id=9127

[Got Speed]

Yeah, the plastic part that screws onto the end of the shock shaft. Too bad you can only get it that way. I'll have a box full of the spring retainers.

[gotspeed_2000]

I can't wait, I'm charging my rec pack, glow igniter, and 12 volt battery right now. Since I've added the werks clutch, the new machined chassis, Jammin JP2 pipe, and that darn intake S-tube. I've gone a bit crazy on ebay also, adding a bunch of spares like two front or rear diffs, gas tank, front hubs, clutch bearings, front knuckles, rear hubs, front and rear arms, pro motor mounts, etc. I now almost have enough spares to build another hyper buggy. Too much time at night to go shopping on ebay at night. Hopefully everything will go well this weekend. Maybe I'll even switch engines and break in my Sirio Kanai engine. See you guys later.

[gotspeed_2000]

Here is a recent picture after I added the parts.

[gotspeed_2000]

Jammin pipe

[gotspeed_2000]

Here's a picture of the S-tube from PBS model. Also, in the picture above, you might be able to see the Werks racing clutch flywheel behind the pipe. Also, I used an assocaited antena mount to mount my antena a little more solidly.

[gotspeed_2000]

Went racing today! It was a blast. Except for some tuning problems I had at the early part of the day, it went well. The Werks Clutch worked without a problem. Actually, it worked great and I highly recommend it. The JP-2 pipe gave awsome mid range without any bending after a few rough crashes. The Extended chassis helps stablize the car a little bit, but I lost some steering though. I also changed plugs from the Odonnell 99 plug to the RB7 plug and the change helped me with my tuning problems. Also, the RB plug showed little wear after today's usage. I guess I'm gonna run the RB plugs from now on. Also, the S-tube from the PBS worked out great and I didn't have a single problem with the airfilter today. I think I'm gonna try running Josh Wheeler's diff set up next. Hopefully that will give me a little more steering. In retrospect, I'm happy with all the parts I bought and installed. I can't wait to go back in two weeks.

[KyoshoKev]

hey fellas,

i'm looking for some cva/cvd to replace my dogbones in my PBS in the rear

anyone know the difference between these two CVA for the rear hyper

HOBAO (#87328) CVD For Rear Shaft For Hyper 7

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_586&products_id=9158

HOBAO (#87354) New CVD/ Rear For Hyper 7

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=595_426_586&products_id=8903

thx & god bless

[Fluke]

hi guys

i got a hyper7 pcr rtr and i'm now looking for more speed.

what do suggest?(pipe,etc)

[KyoshoKev]

new pipe, servos, engine, remote LOL

[gotspeed_2000]

Hey Kev, I think that the one of the two is more like a CVD and is rebuildable. While the other is a swing shaft type. I'm not sure on the part numbers, but the rear drive shafts on the PBS PCR pro are used for both PBS and C hub suspensions that come with the kit.

As for Fluke, you might want to focus on getting a better engine and radio. The pipe is decent, but the engine on the RTR is the 4 port hyper which is a bit down on power. You might want to consider the Hyper 8 port since it's fairly cheap. If money is not an object, then you might want to check out engines from Novarossi, RB, or sirio. And since you want to go faster, you might want to upgrade your radio. The Airtronics MX3, Hitec CRX, or Futaba 3PM are all great radios. The MX3 and 3PM are computer radios, with the MX3 having a 3 model memory if I'm not mistaken, and the 3PM having a 10 model memory. Any of these radios should run around 100-150 dollars depending on where you go. Good luck.

[KyoshoKev]

hey, how does people mount their fail safe on the outside like this pic. my fail safe got no room for me to drill hole and make a mount.

http://www.jamminproducts.com/x1cr3.jpg

[gotspeed_2000]

[QUOTE=KyoshoKev]hey, how does people mount their fail safe on the outside like this pic. my fail safe got no room for me to drill hole and make a mount.



The image that you are using shows a AMB personal transponder near the radio box. You can check out the picture of my car on the previous page that shows the air tube from the PBS on my car. I just drilled a hole in the radio box. You do lose the seal however, but since I don't race in the rain it doesn't really create a problem for me. You can also use a servo extension cable instead that will then enable you to run the failsafe outside and with the extension you can route the wires under the radio tray the normal way.

[gotspeed_2000]

Usually they dont come with any way to mount them like the AMB personal transponders. I just used servo tape. I check it after every run. If you wanted to mount it more securely, you could always try and mount it to a piece of lexan. You could use servo tape and also drill two holes and use zip ties to help secure it better to the lexan. Then drill one or two holes into the lexan that match up somewhere on the car so that it's mounted a bit better. When I race long races, I usually take out the fail safe. But for play, I always leave it in.

[Got Speed]

Fluke- Like gotspeed 2000 said look at a better engine, radio, and a pipe suited to your track. The MX-3 is pretty nice and has 5 model memory. I would suggest either the 3pm or the M8 though if you are going to upgrade. For an engine I don't really know alot about the less expensive ones but if you arn't on a strict budget then look at the Novarossi/Rex/Top/Mugen P5, RB WS7, WS7II, S7, or the C5. These seem to be the best of the best. The P5 seems to have a bit punchier of a bottom end than the RB S7 line but the S7s have more on top and have a smoother power band. You can get either one ported to get better characteristics too. For pipes there are lots of options but if you have a tight low speed track then get a bottom end pipe such as the Ofna 063. If you have a more open high speed track then go for a top end pipe. Low end pipes are usually long and skinny and top end pipes short and fat. For servos something like the Hitec 645MG will work but will be slower and not have as much power. If you have the extra cash I have found the Airtronics 94358 to be one of the best buggy servos you can get at 200 oz/in torque with 0.10 transit time.

[Fluke]

thanks for the response.

I already got a 2pl radio and a hitec servo up front.i was considering getting a new motor(which i though was a 8 port btw),i just wanted to know if there was anything else to be upgraded to get power before(i'm not a big fan of the "drop in the baddest motor" attitude,i like to get the best out of what i got)

[eb4flys]

I'm been using mines for a while and they are fine. Maybe the oil/piston combination are creating too much pack for the shafts to take. What oil/spring/piston combination are you running?
Also, what engines are the other people running at your track that you are comparing to your hyper? Also, what nitro percenatage are you using? More info might be helpful.

gotspeed, sorry i been in the US so unable tp reply, just to let you know all is sorted out on the hyper uk pro, got rid of the hyper 8 port with boost and bought a nice new cipolla with a navorossi 2006, now it really flys,shocks have been changed to carbide shafts, nothing wrong with the standard ones i just give it alot of abuse at my local track, as you will see by the state of my thunder tiger HERE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/) but thanks for reply
michael

[eb4flys]

hi anyone know how to put bearings in the steering post? pics appreciated. the size i need are 6x10x3? how many do i need?

cheers
kev :)
kev dont know if you got the bearings sorted, but one of the guys at our local has done it, no pics but you can pm him and im sure he will help try this link (http://www.3araceway.com/forum/index.php?showtopic=397)

[KyoshoKev]

hey eb4flys.

i got the steering post all done. i bought the 6x10x3 bearing. took off bushing and they fit perfect.

i also did the brake cam. the LHS not have flanged bearing for the the brakes, so i put unflanged in there and they work and not fall out. much more free flowing the brakes are now.


p.s how does your eb4 (u had a s2?) compare to your hyper? some guy told me he used to have a eb4s2 then switched to a k3 and was doinf 10second lap times better, with same engine and servos.

[eb4flys]

hey eb4flys.

i got the steering post all done. i bought the 6x10x3 bearing. took off bushing and they fit perfect.

i also did the brake cam. the LHS not have flanged bearing for the the brakes, so i put unflanged in there and they work and not fall out. much more free flowing the brakes are now.


p.s how does your eb4 (u had a s2?) compare to your hyper? some guy told me he used to have a eb4s2 then switched to a k3 and was doinf 10second lap times better, with same engine and servos.

Hi Kev, glad you got all bearings sorted, any difference between the two cars, well i guess its a bit of a mini Vs jag type thing really, but in saying that the eb4 was and still is a great car, cheap parts too, i ran it with a hyper 4 port but have just canged that to the 8port with boost, my hyper (uk pro) now has the copolla .21 in, but as yet have not given it a full days racing due to bad weather, im afraid the eb4 gets all the wet stuff for now. but as soon as i get some lap times down with the hyper i will give you a full report, what hyper do you have mine is the uk version hyper uk pro (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)

[KyoshoKev]

hi have the standard hyper PBS - but i changed the fron the C-Hub

http://au.msnusers.com/_Secure/0TQAAACQXioUcHc!lmBBqzFRoGZEQ9O4EWm36UbjWr57u3M2mU nv8Wrn9P!NAfffoWkNDU68HOi1BNBkrCK03bs8tu96BugYxkaC 0AU2spLs4ZLe8g3HUCQ/hyper%20002_small.JPG

[eb4flys]

Kev good move with the c hub front, how is the steering now? the laydown servo makes a huge difference on response times and turn-in, but the brake /throttle servo is best left the same as you have it, what engine is that, never seen a heatsink like that before.
michael

[KyoshoKev]

since i upgraded servos and controller i have plenty of steering. i gone back to 22deg from 20deg.
thats the ofna/picco comp 21, it sells for only $139.90USD at ace hobbies!!! plenty of power!!!

[KyoshoKev]

oh i also want to change the rear to c-hub, but does ofna have different rear toe plate angles? like -3, -2 or -1

[gotspeed_2000]

Kev, I'm pretty sure they make different inner hinge pin mounts that change the rear toe. But with your rear PBS suspension, you can adjust your rear toe alot easier. Are you having problems with the rear PBS? I would like to hear your experience with the rear PBS. I was thinking about changing it, but not to sure. Thanks

[gotspeed_2000]

Kev, the parts you are looking for are PCR parts:

3 Degree rear mounts: Part #: 19715
2.5 Degree rear mounts: Part #: 19714
2 Degree rear mounts: Part #: 19713

Plus you can use the following rear uprights to alter rear toe:
0 Degree rear upright: Part #: 19719
.5 Degree rear upright: Part #: 19720


Remmber that these are PCR parts. I think you can check with Dinball to see if they have other parts. Hope this helps you.

[KyoshoKev]

Thanks for that gotspeed, i know why ho-bao originally didnt make varios rear plate, coz they used to make the rear A-arm short and then you needed ball extentions that join onto the rear upright, then you can adjust rear toe by adjusting the extensions on the arms.

http://www.hobao.com.tw/images/hyp7rtr-rear-sus.gif

i can just find this on rcmart

http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=hobao+rear+pla te

eb4flys the rear pbs has served me very well, nothing at all has broken there.

the reason why i want to change is that i want to put the setup similar to that of Agioni who tq the worlds. he ran chub front and rear. and i reckon it will be marginally lighter without the pivot balls.

[gotspeed_2000]

Hey Kev, I don't think I would recommend getting that rear end from HoBao. Those rear suspension set-ups are almost as heavy as the PBS that you may be replacing. The weight of the hinge pins, and the ball ends that they pass through are pretty heavy. Plus, you have to remove the hinge pin to change toe angles so I it might be better for you to stick with what you have or change over to the standard rear end. I run mines with 3 degrees rear toe, the standard set up.

[Got Speed]

I was thinking about the PBS and PCR servo plates. Would it be possible to cut your own out of CF that had a laydown steering servo and the normal stand-up throttle?

If anyone is intrested in any alum. hinge pin holders I've got two full sets w/set screws I need to sell. I got three sets new and used one for myself. Here is a pic. I'd like $20 for them.

[eb4flys]

godspeed, i think the lay-down plate is grafite, which is hard to cut with out splinters,but you can do it with the ally one no problem, you just have to file the center out a bit more and drill 4 holes for the servo to fix to, if you want CF parts have a look at THIS (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/fl_modelcars.html) they make to order, splash guards look great, friend has them

[Got Speed]

I don't know if it is any different there or not but in the US the PCR has laydown throttle and steering servos. The PBS has just the standard stand-up servos. I was thinking of making the servo plate out of CF that would let me have a laydown steering servo but not throttle.

[eb4flys]

Hi Godspeed, we dont have the PCR in England, but it sounds like the set-up on my Hyper UK Pro, and i know what you mean about the throttle, it has weak and unessary parts, i would be intrested to know how you get on with ths as i think it would improve response and breaking, have a look at our site and let me know if the set-up is the same on my car as yours, dont forget to sign our guest book talk soon, michael TEAM CRASH WEB SITE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)
there are more pics on the websalbum on the site
michael

[SN VipeR]

Cutting carbon fiber, aka graphite, is no problem if done right. All you need is a dremel with rotary sanding tool and reinforced cutting wheel. What's also important is that there's a vacuum cleaner running right next to where you're cutting as the dust is harmful and will cover the whole room à la "Dante's Peak". You don't even have to seal the edges off with CA as most people recommend.
I made my own Hyper shocktowers out of that stuff and it's stronger (4mm) and a lot lighter than before.
Making a laydown servo tray wouldn't be a problem if you get some plastic servo holders. I might do this to my non-laydown Hyper this winter with a Mugen-style setup meaning the throttle servo upright.

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/buggyworks4.jpg

Before anyone says this breaks easily... - It won't! I've only broken one front shocktower so far and it was because the diff case had broken before and couldn't support it adequately. It was also the prototype which I had cut out much too thin where the two large halves connect.
The only problem I've had was that the front hinge pins wore out the holes of the CF pretty fast so I made them bigger and epoxied some steel bushings in.

[Got Speed]

eb4flys- Yep, that's the same as our PCR. I probably won't get around to actually trying this untill around Christmas time since I have so many other projects going. I do plan on trying it though and I'll let you guys know.

SN Viper- Those look very nicely done. I've never cut CF but I don't think I'll have a problem with since I have cut just about anything you can think of with my dremel. lol

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Just wondering, I did not receive the little washers that hold the wing down on the rear, is there a certain part number for these?

I took Sn Viper's Pic for reference and highlighted in yellow what I'm talking about.. Hope you don't mind :)

[T-EVO RACER]

....is a pbs for a beginners car for my friend. With me and my dads supervision over my friends pbs that he just got when he runs it? My friend has never owned a car over tycos. But has driving my friends rustler, and my crappy rs4. It's not the driving, he's ok. But how good he takes care it. Do hyper 7's hold up good to newbies? :) Or do they need high maintance. :confused:

[gotspeed_2000]

....is a pbs for a beginners car for my friend. With me and my dads supervision over my friends pbs that he just got when he runs it? My friend has never owned a car over tycos. But has driving my friends rustler, and my crappy rs4. It's not the driving, he's ok. But how good he takes care it. Do hyper 7's hold up good to newbies? :) Or do they need high maintance. :confused:

I wouldn't recommend a 1/8th scale buggy to anyone for a 1st car. The power, speed, and weight can create alot of problems for newbies. The hyper buggy is pretty durable, and is fairly cheap considering what features it has. Also, parts should be available at most stores. Also, 1/8 buggies are the most fun at tracks or taking jumps. If your friend doesn't have any plans on racing or taking it to places where there are others who have off road vehicles who are jumping around then I would recommend something else. Maybe getting a on road 10th scale might be better. Or even a rc10gt maybe. Good luck.

[gotspeed_2000]

Went racing yesterday with my new Sirio 21. I installed the werks clutch on this engine with carbon pads and was pretty impressed with it. The engine had some serious torque and made the buggy fly! Compared to the RBS7 I was running, the sirio really made me push the buggy harder. Was a good day and nothing broke. Must have run about 1/2 gallon and had a blast. Even though it rained a bit, it was nice to race with friends! Also got to run my mutant maxx too, it was pretty funny driving that thing after driving the hyper. Well, see you guys later.

[KyoshoKev]

hey sn viper.

can you show us what tools you u used to cut the CF?

also where do you get CF from?

thx

kev :)

[KyoshoKev]

@ Pa|2a|)oX

those wing washers only come with the wing! wings cost around $6USD from RCmart.

[gotspeed_2000]

Went shopping today and picked up a spare set of PCR front and rear shock towers and a new Futabe 3PM synthasized radio set. Went to the lhs and the owner offered me a good price for the package. Now I don't have to worry about bending or breaking my titan tech towers since I have spares. It should be nice to not have to worry about having to change crystals in the transmitter anymore. Hopefully the weather here will be nice this weekend for racing.

[SN VipeR]

KyoshoKev, as said, I mainly use a dremel with a reinforced cutting wheel and round sanding "thing". With the wheel I cut the part out roughly and with the rotary sander I finish it nice and smooth. I drill the holes with a metal drill head (slow) with tape on either side so the carbon doesn't get delaminated.

You can get CF from your local composites factory or specialised RC dealers, such as www.penguinrc.com .
I myself got it from a swiss company (that's where I live) and chose the high quality triple layered (90°/90°/45°) carbon fiber. Even on the most expensive RC car kits available, you'll only find 90°/90° layered CF. If you look closely at the two different parts (stock Hyper CF parts and my parts) you can see the structural difference. With such parts as shock towers, this is very important I think. Graupner, the German distributer of the Hyper 7, has had huge problems with their (cheap) carbon towers. I had none.

[KyoshoKev]

u should start a business. how much would u sell for the front and rear towers?

[eb4flys]

u should start a business. how much would u sell for the front and rear towers?

Hi kev, have you just joined the forum at our local track www.3araceway.com if not then someone has the same name :confused: , i am on the forum as michael

[SN VipeR]

u should start a business. how much would u sell for the front and rear towers?

Yeah I probably should.
I'm out of carbon right now but I've been planning to buy some more for some time. All I'd need would be a little nudge. :)
I don't know about pricing. The carbon is relatively expensive and it's about 2hrs. (the least, more if it has to look good ;) ) work for me. But I'm sure we could work something out. If you're interested, contact me. You'll find my contact info on my site.

[eb4flys]

Yeah I probably should.
I'm out of carbon right now but I've been planning to buy some more for some time. All I'd need would be a little nudge. :)
I don't know about pricing. The carbon is relatively expensive and it's about 2hrs. (the least, more if it has to look good ;) ) work for me. But I'm sure we could work something out. If you're interested, contact me. You'll find my contact info on my site.

Viper this might give you an idea of price CARBON LINKY (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/fl/fl_modelcars.html)

[KyoshoKev]

Hi kev, have you just joined the forum at our local track www.3araceway.com if not then someone has the same name :confused: , i am on the forum as michael


LOL. I havent joined yet. thats a fake kyoshokev :D

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Thanks.. I took some time with a new load of bumpers I got to make up this:

http://www.hiper-enterprise.com/image/public/bumper1.jpg
http://www.hiper-enterprise.com/image/public/bumper2.jpg
http://www.hiper-enterprise.com/image/public/bumper3.jpg
http://www.hiper-enterprise.com/image/public/bumper4.jpg

[Fluke]

How did you make them?

[Pa|2a|)oX]

If you're interested I'll make you one for 8$ plus shipping. Fits snugly without any modification, just take the front bumper off and put this one in.

They're made out of mossdog plastic NMT bumpers, but modified to fit the hyper. My company bought the last batch of his plastic stuff and I'm just testing the waters to see what areas they can be applied, the hyper 7 is a great candidate.

[SN VipeR]

And what exactly is better with them besides that they're not snug with the chassis underside? (Which is actually bad...)

[gotspeed_2000]

SNViper is right, the front bumper should be flush with the bottom of the chassis. If not, then you run the chance of tweaking the front end. The wider front bumper does have an advantage though, it might protect the front lower arms from frontal impacts. Might look a bit different also with the body on too.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

I'll see what I can do in those regards, thanks for the input SN Viper and gotspeed_2000.

[gotspeed_2000]

If you can get it flush with the bottom, it will look pretty good. I think it will give the people who bash extra protection for the front arms. Great idea and hopefully it'll work out for you. btw, nice buggy too, but way too clean! lol

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Thanks, It is too clean, its waiting for a pipe right now, a brand new Jammin JP2..

It's also clean because its 10 below outside right now, and Its out of season for me, I like to keep my extremedies above 20 degrees celsius.

[gotspeed_2000]

I guess I would stay indoors also! I have the JP2 pipe and it's a really good pipe. I got the hard annodized version and I love the power of the pipe.

[eb4flys]

hey fab thats a flat looking track you have there, i suggest you get a jcb nip down there at night and put a few jumps and whoops in :p have a look at our local track there are pics on my team page TEAM CRASH HOME PAGE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/) i guess i am really luck its only 5 mins from home :cool:

[KyoshoKev]

I guess I would stay indoors also! I have the JP2 pipe and it's a really good pipe. I got the hard annodized version and I love the power of the pipe.

i got a 1mm dent in my JP2, is it was my rb pipe, it would of been crushed in half!!! very strong pipe and love the look of it.

[eb4flys]

Thanks, It is too clean, its waiting for a pipe right now, a brand new Jammin JP2..

It's also clean because its 10 below outside right now, and Its out of season for me, I like to keep my extremedies above 20 degrees celsius.

10 below..and i thought i had it bad, but i guess at least you dont have rain all the time.......car does look clean thought, it would look really nice with the hyper uk pro shock towers on, and i have never managed to break any yet, keep wishing for the summer
http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/hyper%20biit%203.JPG
http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/hyper%20bit.JPG
http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/hyper%20bit2.JPG
http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/uk%20pro.jpg
team crash home page (http://www.freewebs.com/mchaelbale/)

[gotspeed_2000]

Nice buggy eb4flys, we here in the US get different parts. I'm running front and rear Titan tech towers. I also picked up a spare set of PCR towers for the front and rear. Your buggy also looks way too clean too! lol. I guess with all the rain out there where you are, it's even more important to keep it clean huh. I posted pictures of my buggy a few pages back in case you wanted to take a look at the towers. I'm also thinking of picking up the New Sirio Kanai Edition 2 for my car. Not sure yet though. I have a brand new Kanai Edition 1 still, as well as a couple of other engines too. Not sure how good the new Sirio is. Anybody with experience with the Sirio Kanai 2 motor?

[eb4flys]

Nice buggy eb4flys, we here in the US get different parts. I'm running front and rear Titan tech towers. I also picked up a spare set of PCR towers for the front and rear. Your buggy also looks way too clean too! lol. I guess with all the rain out there where you are, it's even more important to keep it clean huh. I posted pictures of my buggy a few pages back in case you wanted to take a look at the towers. I'm also thinking of picking up the New Sirio Kanai Edition 2 for my car. Not sure yet though. I have a brand new Kanai Edition 1 still, as well as a couple of other engines too. Not sure how good the new Sirio is. Anybody with experience with the Sirio Kanai 2 motor?

hey gotspeed, saw you buggy looking good there. mine only looked clean in the bottom pic as it was new then, you can see in the other pics i run a cipolla .21 engine now, and trust me it might be raining but that never stops us racing, pic below is my other buggy after a race in the rain, took 6 hours to clean up. ps friend has the kanai2 motor, runs really sweet go get it!!

http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/dirty%20EB4%20S2.jpg

[gotspeed_2000]

Nice picture eb4flys. Now that's what a buggy is supposed to look like! Your buggy must be a couple pounds heavier at the end of the race! And thanks for the info on the Kanai 2. I'm pretty sure I'm going to get it soon.

[Krishnen]

My PCR Pro after some serious bashing.

[eb4flys]

nice to see people actually use there buggys and get em dirty, rather than the ones that look like they just come from "pimp my ride" :p

[Fluke]

hey Krishnen,any news from ebene?

[Krishnen]

Nope, Not yet. But lets keep faith!

[hawkboy65]

Heres my baby all dirty'ed up (pbs)
http://img.villagephotos.com/p/2004-11/895774/DirtyBuggy(small).JPG

[Fluke]

Did you know buggies and carbs don't like each other?

Buggy (http://www.******.net/img/43495 )

[H-Trainer]

... The wider front bumper does have an advantage though, it might protect the front lower arms from frontal impacts. Might look a bit different also with the body on too.

Umm, and how many suspension arms have you broken on the Hyper 7?
Yes, it might look weird and ugly... oh wait, it surely will ;)
just messing with ya

[eb4flys]

hi guys, i need help, i am traveling to vegas very soon with my buggys and need some info on tracks, if anyone could help, then i thank you in advance
michael

[gotspeed_2000]

Went to practice yesterday and I bent two front drive shafts on my Hyper, more than like due to me casing the quads a couple of times. Our local track has a new layout and has a nice quad that most people either double-double, or triple-single. I was able to clear the quad in one jump, but with the new layout and trying to learn it I cased it a few times. But I was wondering if any one else has had this problem also. I'm running the C-Hub front suspension. Also, does anyone know if the front drive shafts from the Kanai 3 will fit our cars? Thanks!

[Got Speed]

gotspeed_2000- Sorry I don't know if the K3 shafts will fit. I can't see how the shafts could get bent. That's really weird since they should just slide out of the outdrives.

Once I got the alum. bulks I couldn't believe how durable this thing is. Much more durable than the storm and IMO more durable than the Mugen too. I don't know about the Kyosho though. My nastiest crash yet was last week. At this track there is a metal fence all the way around(not a chain link fence either). I was coming off the straight away into a big sweeper with a small berm. I was going about 3/4 of full speed(maybe 35mph?) and I waited a little too long to start turning and hit the berm acted like a ramp. The left front suspension arm took the whole impact straight into one of the metal bars. It fell back to the ground upright and amazing it didn't break or bend anything. I couldn't believe it. You could hear the ringing of the metal bar on the other side of the track with 10 other buggys going during the race.

[gotspeed_2000]

I'm pretty sure that they bent not from being pulled away from the diff, but from being pushed into the diff itself. Clearing the quads is about 10-15 ft long and there's a sharp left hand turn right after the landing. That's why if you can clear the quad in a single jump you can set up for the turn as well as keep some speed. People who triple-single the jump have to slow down for the last jump to make sure they don't overshoot the turn. People who double-double have to slow down and not carry as much speed to make sure that they do the double-double and not end up too long on the first jump.

[nmting]

Hi guys, started looking into getting a Hyper 7, just wanting to know some more details. I've seen this advertised the Hyper 7 PBS Pro advertised here:
Radio Models (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=rmshyperpbsrtrpro_detail::rms,d:rmshyperpbsrtrp ro.txt,p:,s:,i:rmshyperpbsrtrpro.jpg,t:rmshyperpbs rtrpro.gif&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=prdetail&us=1102402462-27&kn=cat.brand-595&**)
After reading through the posts here I see lots about the PCR but not the PBS, just wondering what the difference is?? And is it better to go one than the other??
Also are there any recommended options parts to fit straight away to fix known issues??
Thanks :D

[Fluke]

Both are the same except the pcr has laydown servos and different arms.not really an upgrade,just different.i'll go for what is cheaper

[Pa|2a|)oX]

I got my New Jammin JP-2 Pipe and It seems like it will hold up to anything but I will have to wait a while to test it out with the crappy weather and snow and such.

Check it out :)

[gotspeed_2000]

Pa|2a|)oX: you'll going to love that pipe! I've been running mines of a couple of months now and I really like it alot! Very tough, but also gives good mid range. The bottom end is no slouch either! Good luck and I hope the weather clears up for you.

[KyoshoKev]

Hi guys, started looking into getting a Hyper 7, just wanting to know some more details. I've seen this advertised the Hyper 7 PBS Pro advertised here:
Radio Models (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=rmshyperpbsrtrpro_detail::rms,d:rmshyperpbsrtrp ro.txt,p:,s:,i:rmshyperpbsrtrpro.jpg,t:rmshyperpbs rtrpro.gif&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=prdetail&us=1102402462-27&kn=cat.brand-595&**)
After reading through the posts here I see lots about the PCR but not the PBS, just wondering what the difference is?? And is it better to go one than the other??
Also are there any recommended options parts to fit straight away to fix known issues??
Thanks :D


that is a the PRO kit in RTR format. lots of hop-ups already on it, not much you need to change. radio models is the cheapest place to get it locally.

the only thing i would get later on as an option is a torsen diff on the front. :cool:

[nmting]

that is a the PRO kit in RTR format. lots of hop-ups already on it, not much you need to change. radio models is the cheapest place to get it locally.

the only thing i would get later on as an option is a torsen diff on the front. :cool:

cool thanks Kev :D

[view002]

hi guys~
where can i buy the jammin JP2 pipe? who could help me that price and website can sell to other country because here is S.korea.
cheapest price!!!

thanks~

[Pa|2a|)oX]

eBay man, eBay.

http://search.ebay.com/JP-2_Toys-Hobbies_W0QQcatrefZC12QQfromZR40QQsacategoryZ220QQ sojsZ1QQsomorecategoriesZ1QQsosortorderZ1QQsosortp ropertyZ1

[gotspeed_2000]

Saw a new Collari 7 port mod engine on ebay last week so I bought it! Was a great deal and now have two competion level engines. Also saw PDL racing selling a piston and sleave set for $60 dollars for the werks engine. Bought that too. I love ebay! Can't wait to get a chance to break this engine in and see if it's really that good. Anyone with any experience with the new Werks Collari 7 port engine yet? Thanks and happy holidays to all.

[Pa|2a|)oX]

Check out this link guys. Ace is selling OFNA premounts for 10 bucks a pair :)
Great find, i ordered my two sets.

http://acehardwarehobbies.com/2.2/catalog/default.php?cPath=57_38_53_54

[chevy_94]

i am definetly getting this buggy. i have looked at the MP777 and other kyosho buggies and they are to much race bred to me. yeah the Ofna Hyper 7 pro is race bred but i look at it as not as race bred as kyosho buggies....get what i am saying? well the reason i am wanting it is because htey have a well detailed layout under the ofna forum about how to build that buggy and you have to be a dumba$$ to mess something up.how does everyone like it? and would i have to to change motor mounts to put a WS7II on it???? thanx any feedback would be appreciated.

[SN VipeR]

Nope, any non pullstart .21-.28 engine should drop right in.

That layout is actually from www.twf8.ws and is also available for the Kyosho, Mugen and some other cars. :) There's not much to be done wrong with any good 1/8th buggy if the manual is being looked at every now and then when building it. From my experience, the more race-bred a car is, the higher is its quality and building comfort.

Personally, I'd base my decision which buggy to get on the following aspects:

-How is spare parts support where I live? (Shouldn't be a problem if you're from the US)
-Do many other drivers drive this buggy on my track? (Setup and other experience from other drivers is very important)
-Will this buggy have a future? (They just announced the new Hyper 8 to replace the Hyper 7 next year, parts support should go on for a long time though)

The thing is, I bought a Hyper, and it's a great buggy, no question about it. (Was even top qualifier at the worlds!)
But other Hyper drivers around here and parts support are close to nonexistant. So I ended up buying another Hyper for parts so I wouldn't have to wait two weeks whenever something broke. Also, I was pretty much lost at races in terms of setup advice because nobody else had a Hyper.
So better check out your local situation and speak to the drivers where you want to race your buggy. That's the best thing to do whenever someone wants to buy a new racecar.

That's why I got a Mugen MBX5. And I'm not even starting on how that was a complete dream to assemble, this being a Hyper forum after all... :p

[chevy_94]

yeah thats the site where they had that layout but it was still on ofna's site. thats good to know that engine will fit in there. and mainly there is one lhs around here and they mainly deal with kyosho. i mean an A$$ of S*** there. three of there walls has nothing but kyosho parts on them. and another thing i won't be racing at all. and there will be a great future for it later on in time(next year).

[KyoshoKev]

hi guys.

i did this neat mod.

for more nimble turning, shorten the wheelbase by trimming the rear lower arms by 2mm and sliding it forward and put a castor clip between the rear toe plate and the arm.

[gotspeed_2000]

yeah thats the site where they had that layout but it was still on ofna's site. thats good to know that engine will fit in there. and mainly there is one lhs around here and they mainly deal with kyosho. i mean an A$$ of S*** there. three of there walls has nothing but kyosho parts on them. and another thing i won't be racing at all. and there will be a great future for it later on in time(next year).

Actually, if you need spares, just go to ebay and look for a couple of sellers there. I bought tons of spares from ebay and now have just about enough parts to build another car. Mostly, you would need the front knuckles, c-hubs, and suspension arms. You might also want to pick up some spare universals and maybe one diff. The good thing about the Hyper series is that there are a couple of sellers who open kits and sell the parts individually. In most cases, the set up of a Kyosho Kanai 2 or 3 can be used as a baseline for the hyper series of cars especially if you use the C-hub suspension. If you have questions, please let me know. Good luck

[gotspeed_2000]

Just wanted to wish all the other Hyper pilots a Merry Christmas!

[chevy_94]

hey gotspeed thanx for the info and i will let you know if i need any help or have any questions on this buggy. and i am seriously going with this buggy cause i am sure i can getthe spare parts for it at a lhs around here.

[Jacoby]

Hi everybody... You might remember me from such forums as....

Anywho.. I just ordered the Hyper 7 PCR from towerhobbies.com and I have a few Qs.

#1. Does the filter oil come with? TH didn't have it listed as required.

#2. Where can I buy Byron's 2000 online?

#3. What should I look for when checking out the car when it arrives today?

#4. Tower Hobbies reccommended a 10% fuel. Can I run this or will it damage the engine? I realized after ordering OFNA reccommends 20%..

[Fluke]

#1 the filter is oiled but no additional oil is included

#2 dunno

#3 check if the suspension doesn't bind(mine did) and look for a better steering servo

#4 10% instead of 20% won't harm

[Jacoby]

#1 the filter is oiled but no additional oil is included

#2 dunno

#3 check if the suspension doesn't bind(mine did) and look for a better steering servo

#4 10% instead of 20% won't harm

Thanks dude!

20% will obviously provide more performance though right?

Can I use KNN filter oil or should I buy specific oil for the car?

[J_Bone]

I just order mine too, should be here today so I can break it in before the race this weekend. $403 shipped to my house!! :eek: :D
I already have a Hitec 5945 steering and a 645 for throttle, servos.

Use foam filter oil. It's designed for foam, the other oils are not. Unless it's K&N foam filer oil, then it's ok.
I use Foam filter oil and cleaner that I bought from a Motorcycle store. for $12 I got both a big can of oil and cleaner. It's over 2 years old and still have plenty left.

[Jacoby]

I just order mine too, should be here today so I can break it in before the race this weekend. $403 shipped to my house!! :eek: :D
I already have a Hitec 5945 steering and a 645 for throttle, servos.

Use foam filter oil. It's designed for foam, the other oils are not. Unless it's K&N foam filer oil, then it's ok.
I use Foam filter oil and cleaner that I bought from a Motorcycle store. for $12 I got both a big can of oil and cleaner. It's over 2 years old and still have plenty left.


where did you order it from at $403 shipped? :eek:

[madweazl]

The RTR PCR is $399 shipped from Ultimate Hobbies if thats what you were asking about. Not sure what the Pro runs.

[J_Bone]

Yup, Ultamite Hobbies. PCR rtr & extra glow plug...$403. I almost went through Tower too, but my budddy got his Revo from them and told me about them.
First thing I did was add my Airtronics RX and Hitec 5945 steering and 645 throttle servos. I have a hump 5cell pack, but need a flat pack. On it's way!

OFNA Hyper 7 PCR rtr (http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album03/OFNA_PCR.sized.jpg)

[gotspeed_2000]

Yup, Ultamite Hobbies. PCR rtr & extra glow plug...$403. I almost went through Tower too, but my budddy got his Revo from them and told me about them.
First thing I did was add my Airtronics RX and Hitec 5945 steering and 645 throttle servos. I have a hump 5cell pack, but need a flat pack. On it's way!

OFNA Hyper 7 PCR rtr (http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album03/OFNA_PCR.sized.jpg)

Don't forget to get some diff oil. From the factory the Hyper's and most other RTR buggies come with grease filled diffs. Alot of guys run 3-3-5 but it depends on you. Sounds like you have most of your bases covered. Good luck and have fun.

[J_Bone]

Ya, I din't mention it. I'm going to add Diff oil and new shock oil.
The local guys are running 5-5-3 and 3-5-3. But I'm going to try 3-5-1.
The stock shock oil seem like junk.

[Grant Tokumi]

Crosspost from another thread:
The other day, I took couple friends to an open street to play around with my Hyper 7 and RC10GT since they never seen these types of rc cars in action before. I set 4 melon sized rocks down to make a small track. They are crashing here and there, flipping over, into the curb (not full speed). No problems, around 4 tanks. And then I see the Hyper go coasting mid speed into one of the rocks. The rocks aren't that heavy and its sitting freely right on the asphalt. Wasn't a hard hit at all, but I see a front wheel cocked. Find out the back of the front bulkhead busted, and one of the shock shafts sheared in half. Wow. Huge crashes at a track, cartwheeling, landing upsidedown, and nothing. Then one little mid speed hit into a rock sitting on an open street, and bulkheads and shock shafts break. Go figure. They apologize and all, but I was just happy that they were having fun with it, and both vehicles (Hyper and a RC10GT) actually lasted for 4 tanks without incident. And then I just ordered me a spare vehicle (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5945552063&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT) for parts and a replacement aluminum bulkheads (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&rd=1&item=5944985313&ssPageName=STRK:MEWN:IT) to replace the plastic one.

Question: Are the stock plastic bulkheads a weak point in the Hyper 7? And if so, is it strong enough where I should just keep that the weak point, or make it aluminum and hope the arms break before something deeper?

[gotspeed_2000]

Grant, those bulkheads a bit weak. They allow a bit a give, but if you are planning on racing install the aluminum set you bought. If you plan on bashing more, then maybe sticking to the plastic ones could be better since changing to the aluminum will cause the suspension arms, drive shafts, upper arms to take the majority of the hit. When it comes down to hitting things, if you hit things at the wrong angle, it can cause breakeage easily on any vehicle. I'm thinking the hit th car took was with the front suspention a little compressed due to slowing in the turn. The rock must have hit the front arm that broke and must have been about 90 degrees to the arm itself. In that angle, the suspension would have no way to deal with the impact other than to sheer off or break. Without suspension movement, the impact that our cars take can easily break the arms and such. Good luck and nice pick up as a spare buggy. Nice to see you around.

[chevy_94]

hey well i looked into that buggy more and now i thought about it and i like the pcr pro cause the money i spend on just the pro i could have the pcr pro with already with the pcr stuff. get what i am saying gotspeed. know anything about this buggy.

[gotspeed_2000]

hey well i looked into that buggy more and now i thought about it and i like the pcr pro cause the money i spend on just the pro i could have the pcr pro with already with the pcr stuff. get what i am saying gotspeed. know anything about this buggy.

This is a great buggy at the cost that they sell it for. You get both suspensions in package and you get alot of parts you wont have to upgrade. I have to burst your bubble, but the PCR Pro doesn't come with PCR parts on it. The parts that PCR Pro are alot better than the stock parts on the other Hyper buggies. The PCR Pro towers are thicker and they have some machine work done to them to reduce weight. The aftermarket PCR towers are a bit thicker and have even more machine work done to them. But don't get me wrong, the stock PCR Pro towers are awesome and should be more than up to whatever challenges you put your buggy through. Also, this buggy comes with the longer chassis that is also machined. This chassis is about 4mm longer and should help provide a little more stability through the rough stuff. I'm running this chassis and like it alot. I ran the standard chassis for a while, but like how the longer chassis jumps and how it helps stay more composed. If you go with this buggy, you'll end up with a great car with alot of tuning options. You can even use the PBS set up in the rear to gain easier adjustablility and keep the Chub front so that it's more consistant up front. Good luck and if I can help you out, let me know.

[chevy_94]

well thats cool..i still like that buggy i am gonna try to order it pretty soon. and i didn't know it didn't come with the pcr parts..but from the way everyone talks they love they buggy. at least i will have something worth jumping and not worrying about it not breakin cause that is what i want is something that won't break cause my evader i used to have was a pos and the maxx wasn't to great at jumping either.

[gotspeed_2000]

well thats cool..i still like that buggy i am gonna try to order it pretty soon. and i didn't know it didn't come with the pcr parts..but from the way everyone talks they love they buggy. at least i will have something worth jumping and not worrying about it not breakin cause that is what i want is something that won't break cause my evader i used to have was a pos and the maxx wasn't to great at jumping either.

The parts the PCR Pro comes with is top notch. I wouldn't hesistate running those towers. I didn't get a PCR Pro to start with, so I had to upgrade to the optional PCR parts myself. Spent 200 dollars on two set of front and rear towers. Only thing if anything you might want to add is the PCR aluminum rear wing support. I've bent a few of these really long screws that support the rear wing. I've changed to stainless so maybe it'll be a bit stronger, but that's one of the things I plan on upgrading in the near future. All hyper buggies come with the plastic wing support piece. And now, there are even sellers on ebay selling the parts from PCR Pro Kits at really good prices. The towers sell for around 25 dollars each, which isn't bad for a thick tower that has some machine work to it in case you break or bend your towers that come with the kit. Also of note was that I just saw one of the sellers that broke a kit down selling the exhaust and it looks way better than the stock one I got. The newer one is polished, though 2 piece is good as a spare. It even has the hyper logo etched on it too. That kit is a great buy. The cheapest I've seen it was at lightning hobbies(www.lightninghobby.com). Should sell for around 480-500 online. Good luck and let us know when you get it.

[chevy_94]

yeah thats what another guy told me to do get the PCR aluminum wing support and i talked to a guy on ebay that sells alot of pcr parts and he says he runs nothing but pcr of course and he said its all from pro kits and he is running by them all the time or he has them some. so he told meto keep in touch on the wing support and he'll hook me up with one. yeah lightning or nitrohouse prolly has them at the cheapest. and if my lhs tries to sell them any more than what lightning or nitrohouse has them for he said he will beat the price. oh nitrohuse has them for 474.99 and the lhs said i will pay that with no shipping so i am getting it from the lhs in a few weeks...know how the jobs go...gotta wait till i have enough.

[gotspeed_2000]

That sounds like a good deal especially cause you're getting it from a local source. The stock PCR Pro parts are really good stuff like I said and the only hop up I would get would be that wing support. Hopefully you'll be able to work things out so you can get one. What motor are you planning on using. Also, don't forget that you'll need a servo for steering. Good luck and let us know.

[chevy_94]

i had a dude on here get on to me cause i was lookin at a kyosho and i stated before they were to much race-bred for me....and he was like why did you ask all those questions and then not even say thank you...i guess you'll have ppl like that oh well...kanaidude.....thats him.....yeah i am getting a 625 for throttle and 645 for steering is that good.....and i am gonna run the RB concept C5...everyone says thats overkill....is it???....will the diffs hold up to the power???

[gotspeed_2000]

i had a dude on here get on to me cause i was lookin at a kyosho and i stated before they were to much race-bred for me....and he was like why did you ask all those questions and then not even say thank you...i guess you'll have ppl like that oh well...kanaidude.....thats him.....yeah i am getting a 625 for throttle and 645 for steering is that good.....and i am gonna run the RB concept C5...everyone says thats overkill....is it???....will the diffs hold up to the power???

For the steering, you'd want something with atleast 120oz's of torque. Also, if you a digital servo, they usually have more holding power than standard servo's. If possible, I would say maybe pick up a Hitec 5645 digital servo. It has I think 160oz's of torque with 480oz's of holding power. Not sure what specs the 625 has, but if it's around what I think is neccessary it's up to you. The Hitec digital servo has a pretty good price of around 50 bucks or so. The C5 could be overkill, but it'll also depend on what pipe you decide to run. The pipe will also dictate the power band and total power of the engine. The C5 is a great engine. Seen a couple run and they are really good engines. Lots of bottom end while still being able to scream on the higher rpm's. As for the diffs holding up, they should easily hold the power of almost any engine. Only thing you may want to do is pick up a sliding clutch from either fioroni or werks. These clutches are more reliable and are more consistent in my opinion. Also, may want to pick up a kyosho large volume fuel filter. I run mines after the stock one. I trust this filter with my best engines and they have always worked for me. They run about 20 bucks, but it's a small price to pay for additional security when you are running a 300 dollar engine. The stock airfilter is something you might want to change as well. I run the RB filter and as long as you glue the base it's been good to me. Maybe an aluminum servo horn for steering, and that's about all I can think of off the top of my head. If you have any questions, let me know. Good luck.

[chevy_94]

yeah i was goin with all hitec stuff.....now i have to a out a remote maybe in the 200 dollar range...can i get a 3 channel fm for that..... and how hard is it to build diffs...i might just get my friend to do that thats gonna help me with the buggy.....im glad the diffs will hold up to the c5....cause i want insane power....whats the life expantancy off that engine gallons wise.... and what is the name of the clutch i should get that is best in your opinion...i thought about getting the motorsaver airfilter...is that a good one???....oh yeah i am not ever gonna run that engine without a fuel filter.

[gotspeed_2000]

yeah i was goin with all hitec stuff.....now i have to a out a remote maybe in the 200 dollar range...can i get a 3 channel fm for that..... and how hard is it to build diffs...i might just get my friend to do that thats gonna help me with the buggy.....im glad the diffs will hold up to the c5....cause i want insane power....whats the life expantancy off that engine gallons wise.... and what is the name of the clutch i should get that is best in your opinion...i thought about getting the motorsaver airfilter...is that a good one???....oh yeah i am not ever gonna run that engine without a fuel filter.

I'm running a Futaba 3PM radio. The transmitter is synthesized so it doesn't use crystalls. The receiver uses crystalls, but the transmitter doesn't. It works well, it's FM, with 10 models memory and a really good receiver. The radio system didn't come with servo's, but it sold for 120 at a local hobby store so I would assume it should be around that price at shops near you. The Diffs are easy to build, just need to buy some fluid for them. RB motor's are well known for good power and good life span as well. I think one of the guys who is running a C5 is on his 3rd gallon and it still has good power. Just be sure to break it in good. The motorsavers airfilter is a good filter, but you need to keep an eye on it to make sure the lid doesn't pop off. I've had problems with the RB filter before, but after gluing the base to the tube, it's been working well since. I cut one of the inner filters in half and use one and a half inner filters around the base and one outer filter to protect my motor. The werks sliding clutch retails for around 90 dollars, but you can get them on ebay for around 65 shipped. Get the one with the carbon shoes, and use the medium spring. This set up provides a ton of forward bite. Also, maybe some kyosho Blue Kanai Blue springs for the shocks and 50wt oil for the front, and 40wt oil for the rear. Some blue loctite, and that's about it. Hope this helps.

[chevy_94]

that helps alot....that will be prolly be a good radio choice then...i didn't know synthesized radios don't use crystals..thats cool to know...and if i go with hitec stuff will the futaba system work with it...oh i am getting someone around here to break my engine in i am not about to mess up a 300 and some odd dollar engine....so ill get that clutch too...i have looked at everything i need and its gonna cost me a good bit....but at least ill have a nice buggy....thanx for all your help and i am gonna start getting the servos and start buying the lil stuff so when i buy the buggy ill have everything....

[J_Bone]

yeah thats what another guy told me to do get the PCR aluminum wing support and i talked to a guy on ebay that sells alot of pcr parts and he says he runs nothing but pcr of course and he said its all from pro kits and he is running by them all the time or he has them some. so he told meto keep in touch on the wing support and he'll hook me up with one. yeah lightning or nitrohouse prolly has them at the cheapest. and if my lhs tries to sell them any more than what lightning or nitrohouse has them for he said he will beat the price. oh nitrohuse has them for 474.99 and the lhs said i will pay that with no shipping so i am getting it from the lhs in a few weeks...know how the jobs go...gotta wait till i have enough.

:eek: :eek: If you look back on the previous page, I got mine delivered to my door for $399!!! It was there in 2 days!!

One thing to remember about the PCR, it has smaller holes in the shock pistons. So the oil you use should be a little lighter than normal or it will bounc all over the place. I'm using 35(Losi) in the front and 22.5(Losi) oil in the rear. My local track has a 5 foot lip jump and they fly about 8-10 feet in the air! Of cource there is a landing but there is alot of force coming down that high!!

[gotspeed_2000]

:eek: :eek: If you look back on the previous page, I got mine delivered to my door for $399!!! It was there in 2 days!!

One thing to remember about the PCR, it has smaller holes in the shock pistons. So the oil you use should be a little lighter than normal or it will bounc all over the place. I'm using 35(Losi) in the front and 22.5(Losi) oil in the rear. My local track has a 5 foot lip jump and they fly about 8-10 feet in the air! Of cource there is a landing but there is alot of force coming down that high!!


The PCR RTR is very different than the model we were talking about which is the PCR PRO version. The RTR is a pivot ball suspension only with dogbones rear and center. Also it has thinner shock towers and a aluminum upper radio plate. It does however come with the hyper 8 port, starter box and a radio. The Pro kit comes with two different suspension types(pivot ball and C-Hub), universals drive shafts all around, thicker machined shock towers, Different machined motor mounts, machined chassis braces, Graphite radio tray, graphite front plate, and a longer machined chassis. The cheapest I've seen a PCR Pro kit online was 480. Both version are good, but VERY different.

Most 1/8th buggies will run thicker oil. I run 50/40 with kyosho blue springs. The car handles well and we have a nasty quad jump. The jump spans about 20ft or so, and it's right after a hairpin turn. Many other drivers will slow and take a double-double approach or triple-single on this area of the track. The set up for this jump is more important and determines how you take the quad. I take as a quad on a regular basis with no problems. We fly about 8 to 10 ft high, and the landing area is just before a hard left turn that has a double. It's hard on the suspension, but if you look at the pro's cars, you'll see that most of them are running somewhere between 40 and 60 wt oil in their buggies. Also the spring combinations vary too. Running oil to thin will cause the suspension to bounce too much and rebound to quickly when running through the rough stuff. It'll be like a pogo stick, with the shock spring working too much. Also, running oil too thin will also allow the suspension to compress too quickly when landing off jumps too. Given the additional weight and power of 1.8th buggies, it's usually better to go with something a little thicker to slow the suspension speeds down. The relationship between oil and shock spring are very important. Good luck.

[eb4flys]

Hi Guys, how have you all been hope you had a good xmas and stuff, just got back to the UK from racing in vegas and managed to break just about every part on the planet but had a good time, hows your buggy going godspeed and chevy did you get the pro and join the dark side with the rest of use, and how are you getting along with it.
TEAM CRASH HOMEPAGE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale)

[gotspeed_2000]

Hi Guys, how have you all been hope you had a good xmas and stuff, just got back to the UK from racing in vegas and managed to break just about every part on the planet but had a good time, hows your buggy going godspeed and chevy did you get the pro and join the dark side with the rest of use, and how are you getting along with it.
TEAM CRASH HOMEPAGE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale)

Good to see you on again. That's hardcore going to another country to race. I'm sure it was worth the experience though. European tracks tend to be a bit different than tracks here in the US, but I'm sure you were aware of that already. It's really not how you finish, but if you enjoyed yourself that counts in my opinion. Just what did you break in Vegas? Believe it or not, I haven't been able to run my buggy the last month or so. With the christmas season, most racers tend to spend the time shopping and doing other stuff so most of the tracks here close for the holidays. Plus I was kinda sick the last three weeks. Got to stay home from work for two weeks with a doctors note though. How was your christmas? I got a new engine from "Santa". I saw the Werks Collari LB7 on ebay and just had to have it even though I still have a bunch of motors. Plan on going to play next week though. I think I'll still be using my sirio kanai 1 though for now. From what I know, I think Chevy is going for the "dark side" as soon as he has everything lined up. Well, good to hear from you. Got to go sleep now.

[J_Bone]

The PCR RTR is very different than the model we were talking about which is the PCR PRO version. The RTR is a pivot ball suspension only with dogbones rear and center. Also it has thinner shock towers and a aluminum upper radio plate. It does however come with the hyper 8 port, starter box and a radio. The Pro kit comes with two different suspension types(pivot ball and C-Hub), universals drive shafts all around, thicker machined shock towers, Different machined motor mounts, machined chassis braces, Graphite radio tray, graphite front plate, and a longer machined chassis. The cheapest I've seen a PCR Pro kit online was 480. Both version are good, but VERY different.

Most 1/8th buggies will run thicker oil. I run 50/40 with kyosho blue springs. The car handles well and we have a nasty quad jump. The jump spans about 20ft or so, and it's right after a hairpin turn. Many other drivers will slow and take a double-double approach or triple-single on this area of the track. The set up for this jump is more important and determines how you take the quad. I take as a quad on a regular basis with no problems. We fly about 8 to 10 ft high, and the landing area is just before a hard left turn that has a double. It's hard on the suspension, but if you look at the pro's cars, you'll see that most of them are running somewhere between 40 and 60 wt oil in their buggies. Also the spring combinations vary too. Running oil to thin will cause the suspension to bounce too much and rebound to quickly when running through the rough stuff. It'll be like a pogo stick, with the shock spring working too much. Also, running oil too thin will also allow the suspension to compress too quickly when landing off jumps too. Given the additional weight and power of 1.8th buggies, it's usually better to go with something a little thicker to slow the suspension speeds down. The relationship between oil and shock spring are very important. Good luck.

Sorry to interfere on your conversation..
But..
The pistons in the RTR are different than the ones in a Pro??
I didn't know that. All the setup sheets I've seen of UK drivers with the C-hub PCR pro drill out there pistons to a bigger size because they are small too. Some will drill them out to 1.2 -1.6, now doesn't the PCR have a size 1 in them? That's what I thought. But since I didn't drill mine, running 35wt. in the front is like running 45 with a bigger size piston? Even with the holes drilled out Ive read a setup sheet with Neil Craigg (Euro) drilled his holes out to 1.5 and is only running 40wt. Steve Haynes used 20wt. oil with the holes drilled out to 1.4 on a bumpy track but had less traction so i know why the oil weight was low, but 20 wt. seemed real low to me??
Don't you want to have more rebound in the rear to keep traction? That is how I've always setup my MX bikes and Rc's. It' seems to work good and I've never bounced around. I actually like a stiff suspension, which allows you to run it harder into corners or jumps.

thanks

[Grant Tokumi]

EB4Flys,
Where did you race in Vegas? I live in Las Vegas. Was it a big national race that I didn't know about or a club level race at Danseys? I would not be surprised if it was a big race because I haven't really been keeping up with whats been going on here. I'm curious to know what broke too.

[gotspeed_2000]

Sorry to interfere on your conversation..
But..
The pistons in the RTR are different than the ones in a Pro??
I didn't know that. All the setup sheets I've seen of UK drivers with the C-hub PCR pro drill out there pistons to a bigger size because they are small too. Some will drill them out to 1.2 -1.6, now doesn't the PCR have a size 1 in them? That's what I thought. But since I didn't drill mine, running 35wt. in the front is like running 45 with a bigger size piston? Even with the holes drilled out Ive read a setup sheet with Neil Craigg (Euro) drilled his holes out to 1.5 and is only running 40wt. Steve Haynes used 20wt. oil with the holes drilled out to 1.4 on a bumpy track but had less traction so i know why the oil weight was low, but 20 wt. seemed real low to me??
Don't you want to have more rebound in the rear to keep traction? That is how I've always setup my MX bikes and Rc's. It' seems to work good and I've never bounced around. I actually like a stiff suspension, which allows you to run it harder into corners or jumps.

thanks

Depending on the track conditions, going to a lighter oil can be beneficial. But with all setups, you have to give something to get something. Alot of european tracks are set up differently, so different oils, shock pistons, spring combinations, and shock angles, and mounting points that work there, may not work here. Also, the weather and type of dirt that they use provide different traction and track conditions. You also experienced what having shock oil that is too light will do. The shock oil you are using may be too light for the jumping you are doing, or atleast on that one jump you were talking about. Also, the spring maybe also too light. Your suspension may feel stiff and be able to rebound well, but without having a thicker oil in the shock to slow the piston speed, the spring will compress and decompress too quickly. Having oil that is too thin along with a spring that is too light will have the effect of having the car come down off landing very hard especially with the power and weight of 1/8th scale buggies unsettling the chassis as it bottoms out hard. Run oil too thin along with a stiff spring and you will not only land hard, but the buggy will get unsettled as the suspension rebounds too quickly thus losing traction and or contact with the track. The suspension moves too freely and doesn't absorb the landing very well. You can test it by dropping your buggy fully fueled and ready to race from aboutn 4 ft high. Does your buggy slap the ground hard? If so, then maybe you have a good set up for running in some slight uneven ground, but not for jumping. I can drop my car from about 4ft and the chassis does hit, but it's fairly soft and it does hop or pogo up and down. It squats, then settles with the arms even with the chassis. Having lighter fluid also makes the suspension move faster and tends to heat up the shock oil, thus changing the viscosity to even a thinner oil. But you do gain suspension reaction speed if you were to compare the oils alone and not change the springs, pistons, or angle of the shock. You can write a huge book about suspension angles, shock oils, and springs, but the bottom line is it really depends on where you want to be good on the track and can you be consistant. If you want to jump high and long, then having a suspension too light will transfer most of the impact to the buggy increasing the chances of breaking. By going to a heavier oil set up with more pack(slower suspension speeds), your car will land better, and will skate over most of the rough stuff without trying to work through it. When I encounter track conditions that are pretty bad and rutted, then I usually blip the throttle through the extremely rough sections or try to find a area that I can drive through pinned. Although having a very light suspension setup on your mx worked well, it's only two wheels with the suspension action only going fore and aft. On a 4 wheel vehicle, suspension energy is not only going fore to aft, but also side to side and diagonally as well. Usually on bumpy tracks, I've had better results with a stiffer suspension and having the buggy skate over the ruts than having all four wheels pumping and trying to maintain ground contact and traction. Having your suspension pogoing on all four corners makes for a very interesting and intense race that you could make easier by not only increasing the oil wt, but also going to little harder spring. Factory backed Josh Wheeler tends to run 50/40 wt oil and kyosho blue springs in his shocks on his Hyper pro. Jared Tebo usually has his oils start at around 60/40 wt. Mark Pavidis usually also starts around 60/40wt(in his old Kanai buggies). When I jump my buggy, using the 50/40 wt with the same kyosho blue springs, not only is the take off good, but the landing is easy as well. I've tried the Ofna purple springs which were okay, but I decided to go with what works and haven't tried anything else yet. We don't land on the back side of a jump, I land of the flat of the turn. Also, in addition to the quad jump we have, there is a huge triple and table top jump that you have to be able to take. The track gets rutted, especially when you've got tons of buggies and MT's running, but I've had good success with the heavier wt oil using Wheeler's suspension set up. I've not broken one suspension arm, or part. I've bent a few universals, but that was due to me using the wrong front hingepin holder. Again, finding the right shock oil has more to do with just the feel, but the track layout, track conditions, shock angles, shock springs too. I also like to have the rear of my buggy a little softer, but not too the point where you like it. Also, I've read that earlier this year Ofna changed the piston size from around 1mm to about 1.3 mm(55 drill hole). This could be also why you are running thinner oil and why it works for you, but not for me. Also, the use of thinner oil is to gain some chassis roll in low traction so that you can bet some side bit as the chassis leans and transfers weight from the inside to outside wheels. Again, it's my preference and works well for me at the tracks I've been too as well as for hitting some jumps while bashing around or just testing. Keep in mind also that the springs and pistons you use can also affect what oils to run. The key is a balance of shock springs, shock oil, shock piston, and shock angles. Again, use what works for you.

[eb4flys]

SO MANY QUESTIONS :D i was at outer limits raceway, no big event i had arranged to meet eddy feaks there but had left his contact details in the UK, i spend alot of time there, so as i was there for christmas thought i would take advantage of it, what did i manage to break....2 fuel tanks, one wishbone, 2 shock shafts, and i did a huge front ender so i had to replace both diff case braces at the front which on the uk pro version are pretty solid, godspeed sorry to hear you have been sick, i think its lack of nitro in your lungs that has caused it.you mentione that the tracks are different in the Uk and you are right...apart from my LOCAL TRACK (http://www.3araceway.com) which is 5 mins from my house. we based it on many US tracks and came up with a great place and what we consider to be the best track in the UK at the moment. good to be back and next time i am in Vegas i will give you a shout Grant and we can go and break something
michael

[gotspeed_2000]

Hey Micheal,
Sorry to hear about all the parts you broke. If you ever come to Hawaii, maybe I can take out to our little track in the middle of the Pacific. You are hard on your equipment, how did you ship it there? Were you there for work or for play? I guess I'm pretty lucky that I don't break more parts, but we'll see. Maybe I'll catch you up with our new track layout. The quad is a killer, but so far I've survived. But I only did get to run it once so far, so next week we'll see. I'm also surprised that your chassis didn't need to be replaced as well. I just won an auction for a brand new spare Hyper pro long chassis with the center universals on ebay for around 40 bucks. Now all I need to build another PCR Pro is. . . nothing :). I think I'm going to need another hauler bag pretty soon. Anyways, good to hear from you. I took a look at the lay out of your local track and have to say that's a really nice track layout with great options. I think your local track makes alot of other tracks even here in the US look boring. I like how you guys can change the layout and especially layouts one and two. I would love to run those two layouts. Looks very challenging but fun. I envy you cause it looks like it can truly test your driving skills. Our local track is nothing like yours. Only really one layout possible. I'll try and take some pictures of our local track here later and you'll see what I mean. Land prices here are pretty steep and the track owner got a lease from the government to allow him to make the track, but the size of the lot is not that big. But it's still somehwere we can play atleast and most of the guys who go there are pretty cool. No drama's as to who has the fastest car or best car. Just a bunch of guys having a good time. Again, good to hear from you. Bruce

[KyoshoKev]

I saw the Werks Collari LB7 on ebay and just had to have it even though I still have a bunch of motors. Plan on going to play next week though. I think I'll still be using my sirio kanai 1 though for now. From what I know, I think Chevy is going for the "dark side" as soon as he has everything lined up. Well, good to hear from you. Got to go sleep now.


hey mate,

i was looking at the collari 7port aswell.... let us know how she goes.

i have tried a few engines (m2k, Picco, S7, and WS7) and the best so far is the ws7

[J_Bone]

Gotsspeed_200,
Good reading and thanks for the info. I had my T Maxx setup fpr track and I used 80wt oil with trinity blue springs, but I only ran 1 shock on each corner and it felt real good or my style.

Ya, for my track I feel my setup is working good. But might not work for other tracks. As I actually tend to like stiff setups! But I have the 1mm holes in my pistons, so that's why the lighter weight. I plan on drilling them out a trying new setups.

Is there any setup sheets on the OFNA drivers here in the states?? If so can I get a link?

thanks :D

[gotspeed_2000]

Gotsspeed_200,
Good reading and thanks for the info. I had my T Maxx setup fpr track and I used 80wt oil with trinity blue springs, but I only ran 1 shock on each corner and it felt real good or my style.

Ya, for my track I feel my setup is working good. But might not work for other tracks. As I actually tend to like stiff setups! But I have the 1mm holes in my pistons, so that's why the lighter weight. I plan on drilling them out a trying new setups.

Is there any setup sheets on the OFNA drivers here in the states?? If so can I get a link?

thanks :D

I haven't seen too much information printed on susupension set ups for the very reason we have such different set ups. I've seen alot of information on the Ofna board regarding people who tried different diff combinations, and there are a bunch of post from people who posted here in the past. If you do try thicker oil, also try at to compensate with a stronger spring to help speed the action as well. All the variables can alter the setup in very small amounts. Good luck.

[gotspeed_2000]

hey mate,

i was looking at the collari 7port aswell.... let us know how she goes.

i have tried a few engines (m2k, Picco, S7, and WS7) and the best so far is the ws7


We'll see how practice next week goes. If I'm not running well, maybe I'll pull my Sirio Kanai out and break in the werks engine. I have to set up the mounts and werks clutch though, but I should have time this week to prep this engine as my back up. Will let you know.

[eb4flys]

[QUOTE=gotspeed_2000]Hey Micheal,
Sorry to hear about all the parts you broke.
Well i think you know from my own web site i also run the longer milled chassis on my pro UK version and trust me its as tough as old boots good move getting the center CV too make a bit difference the standard dogbones are a nightmare after a hard landing they just give up and die, as you said i do run them pretty hard, but as i have a full sponsorship deal i guess i am lucky, about shipping the parts over well to my supprise i took my best buggy on as hand luggage, just had to take out rx, and prove there was no fuel in the tank, the other bits just go in a dirty big case, things like starter box, i borrowed one when i got there, so you dont really need that much apart from a bucket of spares in my case, glad you like our track, its our first year of running and we have big plans for the new season, new drainage and extending the track down the front and back straight, so roll on march when we start the racing again, like you said your track might be small but with high land cost you are really lucky to have one.....and the weather to go with it, let me know what you break first :p i hear you are looking for set-up sheets THESE (http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/car_setup.php) might help, the ludlow track is like ours

[Grant Tokumi]

i was at outer limits raceway, no big event i had arranged to meet eddy feaks there but had left his contact details in the UK, i spend alot of time there
Ah, Outer Limits. They have an awesome track out there, its worth the 1.5 hour drive from Vegas. I can see why you may have broken things. I'm surprised you had all the spare parts to fix it all while out here. I haven't seen their recent track, but on page 41 of this thread
http://forums.radiocontrolzone.com/showthread.php?t=135718&page=41&pp=25
I posted a picture of the Outer Limits track from last time I went. Here it is again:
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/DSC00021sm.jpg
It was their "supercross" layout, with some mega jumps. If you time all the jumps right, man, its a great track to drive, and very cool to watch other good drivers run around too. But if you are out of sync and take those jumps kind of off, then man it can be a task to get around the track. I'm assuming the layout is different now as the owner said they were going to redo it around november or December before the nationals.

[gotspeed_2000]

Just picked up even more PCR parts off ebay today. I know for sure I'll be a Hyper Pilot for a long time to come. Maybe when I take a vacation to vegas, I'll take my hyper with me. That track looks killer and I think I'd be spending some time there. That track looks alot larger than ours here in Hawaii. I also think I'd break some parts there getting used to the layout, but I'm sure it'd be fun. Think I'd better bring my hauler bags full of spares though :).

[gotspeed_2000]

Did you get your spare buggy yet? That seller on ebay is selling another buggy that looks new too. Hope you got it when you closed the deal with that seller.

[Grant Tokumi]

Did you get your spare buggy yet? That seller on ebay is selling another buggy that looks new too. Hope you got it when you closed the deal with that seller.
Yup, got the spare buggy the other day. Nice! Now I get to take it apart. My little room is quite a mess so I want to clean up a bit before I start wrenching. I also have to get a plastic fishing container type thing to put the screws and small parts into. Not sure where the larger parts will go.... I probably need a larger container too.

I also got the aluminum bulkheads too. I just hope they are the right ones. I think they are but I'm always skeptical. Let me know if/when you come to Vegas. You won't be able to fly your fuel over, so if you give me enough notice, I can pick some up for you and/or you can mailorder and ship to my address here so I can hold it for you....

[gotspeed_2000]

Hey guys, I was wondering how different are the front shock tower, front upper plate, and front chassis brace between the two suspensions. I can't figure out how the different suspensions would require the use of two different front chassis braces and top plate especially. I kinda figured out that the front upper mounts are different thus they position the mounting point for the upper arm in different place when comparing the two suspensions. Please help me out. Thanks

[eb4flys]

Godspeed
PBS shock tower
http://www.microtechracing.com/images/H87221.JPG

C Hub shock tower
http://www.microtechracing.com/images/H87341.JPG

PBS upper torque plate
http://www.microtechracing.com/images/H87362.JPG

C Hub upper torque plate
http://www.microtechracing.com/images/H87071.JPG

many more pics of the different parts for both C hub and PBS HERE (http://www.microtechracing.com/code/products.asp?subcatid=72&catid=4)

[SN VipeR]

When I switched my Hyper to PBS front suspension, I could still use the same shock tower (upper mounting hole) and front plate. I'm not running a traditional front brace though so that's probably the cause.

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/hyperspill1.jpg

[J_Bone]

I have the PCR rtr. Can I use the steering turnbuckles from the PRO? The stock one on the PCR are POS..

[eb4flys]

I have the PCR rtr. Can I use the steering turnbuckles from the PRO? The stock one on the PCR are POS..
would love to help you on that one but here in the UK we have different versions, but if you can post a pic i can tell you straight away
michael

[gotspeed_2000]

When I switched my Hyper to PBS front suspension, I could still use the same shock tower (upper mounting hole) and front plate. I'm not running a traditional front brace though so that's probably the cause.

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/hyperspill1.jpg

When you changed the suspensions, did you notice that the camber gain or loss was changed significantly when you went to the PBS setup. The reason why I ask is cause it looks like you would lower the inner upper mount using the C-Hub suspension front tower versus the PBS front tower. Please let me know how well your front end is working like that. I won an auction that included some PBS Paul Coleman parts, but I run the Chub instead. Was a good deal, but was just wondering incase I can use it. Maybe I'll end up selling the front tower, front top plate, and front chassis brace instead. We'll see when I get it though. Thanks for the info.

[gotspeed_2000]

I have the PCR rtr. Can I use the steering turnbuckles from the PRO? The stock one on the PCR are POS..

You should be able to use the PCR Pro rods. These would be more like turnbuckles that you can adjust without taking them apart. You can check ebay for these as some sellers open up kits and sell the parts fairly cheap. Good luck.

[KyoshoKev]

just to let you know pbs shock towers and torque plate - fit on C-hub and vice versa.
i.e if change from pbs to chub you do NOT have to buy shock tower and torque plate.

cheers

[J_Bone]

Will 9.5 shocks fit on a PCR??

[SN VipeR]

When you changed the suspensions, did you notice that the camber gain or loss was changed significantly when you went to the PBS setup. The reason why I ask is cause it looks like you would lower the inner upper mount using the C-Hub suspension front tower versus the PBS front tower. Please let me know how well your front end is working like that.

What do you mean exactly? That when the suspension is depressed the camber won't change as much because of the lower front mounting of the upper arm? Or do you mean caster?
Well it's just a bit lower on the front of the arm, shouldn't make too much of a difference to the normal PBS. I do have a PBS shock tower, but I didn't put that on as I wanted to use my carbon tower.
I'll make a pic of the front suspension for you next time I'm in the hobby room.

What I also have to do on the car is file the chassis ears so I'll have more downtravel. I'm using the normal chassis. On my long chassis Hyper, those are already machined at the edge so they have an angle, and it's got much more downtravel.

[gotspeed_2000]

What do you mean exactly? That when the suspension is depressed the camber won't change as much because of the lower front mounting of the upper arm? Or do you mean caster?
Well it's just a bit lower on the front of the arm, shouldn't make too much of a difference to the normal PBS. I do have a PBS shock tower, but I didn't put that on as I wanted to use my carbon tower.
I'll make a pic of the front suspension for you next time I'm in the hobby room.

What I also have to do on the car is file the chassis ears so I'll have more downtravel. I'm using the normal chassis. On my long chassis Hyper, those are already machined at the edge so they have an angle, and it's got much more downtravel.


When you alter the distance between the upper and lower mounting points, you can introduce a change in camber as the suspension moves through stroke. The only time the camber stays the same is if distance between the upper and lower inner suspension mounts are the same as the lower and upper mounts on the chub. Once you change the distance so that they are no longer identical you introduce camber changes as the suspension moves up and down. I was just wondering you as you compress the suspension does your camber change? If so, it is alot. Off road electric cars and trucks use different mounting points to alter roll centers as well as to alter the camber changes as well.

[Anemic_SluG]

ANyone have any pointers, my Hyper kits plastic is a pain to thread ex. turnbuckles into arms, ball ends etc. always semi strip out even though I am very carefull. Just thought if someone had some pointers it could help a few. Thanks

[eb4flys]

ANyone have any pointers, my Hyper kits plastic is a pain to thread ex. turnbuckles into arms, ball ends etc. always semi strip out even though I am very carefull. Just thought if someone had some pointers it could help a few. Thanks

hi slug, before you thread them just heat the plastis parts up with a hair dryer this will stop it being so brittle, hope this helps
michael

[Anemic_SluG]

thanks... could be that I was out in the garage and it was very cold. So great idea. Also does anyone know if OFNA or anyone else sells the 6.8 mm rod ends and balls seperate or do you always have to buy them in the 17 degree arm kit?

[J_Bone]

Will 9.5 shocks fit on a PCR??

YES? NO? Maybe I should just get some Mugen shocks...

[gotspeed_2000]

YES? NO? Maybe I should just get some Mugen shocks...

Just about any shock can be adapted to fit any car if their dimensions are similar. If you are choosing the 9.5 shocks cause they are threaded, then you can go that route. MBX5 shocks are good, but the stock shocks usually work well enough on the hyper. They already have 3.5mm shock shafts on them already. The one thing you have to be aware of is the upper mounting inserts on the shock caps. Usually most shocks have a insert that you have to use. Also, you might want to pick up the lower mounting shocks ends from the hyper to be sure that what ever shocks you buy will be mounted on the suspension are properly. Because the MBX5 and hyper shock shafts are both 3.5mm, they should fit. I'm not sure on the 9.5's shock shaft diameter. Be sure to pick up the upper insert as well for the appropriate shock you buy. Threaded shocks are kinda over rated for off road use in 1.8th buggies. On road cars where they are very sensitive to the smallest changes you will gain in the use of the threaded shocks. I guess that's why most 1/8th scale buggies do not use threaded bodies.

[KyoshoKev]

my K3 shocks the shaft never broke, the o-ring wore out though after 6months/50litres of use.

i think the mbx5 shafts are a bit weaker, i have seen some snap.

i got the 9.5 shocks aswell... just make sure you get the shock tower shock holder that come with them, otherwise you will have to use a 3mm washer nut to secure them.

[SN VipeR]

They already have 3.5mm shock shafts on them already.

Do they? All my Hyper shocks are 3mm. I've measured them and I've got a Mugen sitting right here to tell the difference. :o
The only 3.5mm Hyper shocks I've heard of come with the Yannick TQ upgrade.
Oh how many times I wish I had 3.5mm...

[J_Bone]

Well I traded some old tires that I had laying around for the 9.5's. But I was talking to some guys at the track and they are running Mugen shocks on theirs. The PCR ones seem to have small holes in them. I might try to drill them out and give that a try before I spend $80+ dollars for another set.
I don't like threaded shocks at all!! I prefer the snap on spacers. Even my buddy uses the spacers over his threaded shock housings.

I'm bouncing on the whoops and in the rythm section. I'm only running 35wt in front and 22.5wt in the rear.

[eb4flys]

ofna in the uk have just started a 3.5 mm upgrade set for the hyper shocks

[gotspeed_2000]

yeah, I forgot that the stock hyper shocks come with only 3mm shafts. Sorry about that. Changing to the Mugens or getting the newer Hyper shocks will help strengthen your shocks, but that's about it. You might want to drill the hole or change the shock oil to get what you want. Just remember that when you change your suspension to be better suit to one area, you may give up a little in other areas of the track. You may need to decide whether you want the suspension to try and soak up the track on those sections, or whether you want it the suspension to "float" over it more. I usually choose to have it float, because although you may have to slow down a little and not take it full throttle, you will still be able to jump and absorb landings well. If you want to try a thicker oil, you may find that it will slow suspension speeds and allow it to float a little more. Also, another by product of this, is that it will absorb more of the landing better too.

[J_Bone]

I have the anadized blue stock springs on my PCR. I also have 9.5 shocks with the Black springs. I just bought the medium blue springs.
What are the spring rates of these stock springs??
Blue PCR?
Black 9.5?

[SN VipeR]

You can find a lot about spring rates here:

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/shocks/springratefront.html

(9.5 is Hong Nor , Hyper is HoBao)

[J_Bone]

You can find a lot about spring rates here:

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/shocks/springratefront.html

(9.5 is Hong Nor , Hyper is HoBao)

Thanks,
HoBao has 2 blue shocks, one is powder coated blue and the other is anodized blue. They only listed one on there so I don't know which one. Also, Nong Nor did not show any Black springs on the list.???

[Mystracing]

J-Bone - I did an exhaustive search trying to find out what the spring rates are and came up pretty much empty. I also ran into the issue with not knowing what springs were on the twf8 page. I e-mailed and asked and Carlos said it was the Metallic Blue ones.

I built a spring guage, basically copied the one that twf8 is using. I was unable to reproduce thier results with the OFNA springs. Of course I also wasn't sure which springs were which on thier site. From the results I got the Metallic Blue, Metallic Purple, and Black springs are basically the same just different colors. The rears were within 0.04 pounds of the same rate, the fronts were within 0.10 pounds of the same rate, according to my results. I assumed, as I'm sure you are, that I was doing something wrong in the way I was measuring or calculating the rates. I measured the wire and calculated the spring rate based on the wire size and torsion modulas and using that method the three OFNA springs also calculated to the same rate. Wasn't quite enough to convince myself so I tested three Associated springs and the results of all the Associated springs came out within 0.01 pounds of the advertised rate. After a little consideration I decided it wasn't out of the question that Hoa-Bao used the same stock springs on all of the Hyper 7's. The Black are stock on the PBS, The Metallic Purple on the Pro, and the Metallic Blue on the PCR Pro. More than likely IMO the same spring with different finishes.

I got a set of the light powder blue springs with a new set of Hyper 7 Shocks off ebay and they tested considerably softer than the metallic blue etc, unfortunately I don't know what company they are from for sure. I assumed they were Hoa Bao Light blue springs because they were supposedly taken from a H7 pro kit.

At any rate here's a PDF file of the results I got with the springs I actually had, I've also tested a second set of Metallic Purple and Metallic Blue springs from a new PCR Pro kit a friend bought about a month ago and got the same results.

PDF of my spring rates. (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/~mystracing/springrate.pdf)

None the less I just started running a combination of the springs in the table above and Mugen Springs because I have the rates. Unfortunately I don't have the Mugen rates in a table here, there at home.

The real problem is there's no way to figure out who to beleive. I'm confident in my results, but understand there's no reason for you to be. Any way, I just thought I might save you chasing your tail on the ofna springs, you will likely be better off just running a different companies springs if you tune using the springs. I don't really know whose springs to run, but I expect there are companies out there that can at least tell you which are stiffer or softer for sure. One other note that's just one of my observations. It's no wonder people rarely discuss what springs when asked for a setup on the OFNA site given they don't even know which springs are stiffer or softer.

[eb4flys]

all spring ratings as far as can remember are posted on this FORUM (http://p202.ezboard.com/bofnaracingnitrotalkback) you may have to have a good look round but all the info is there, good luck
michael