Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[J_Bone]

all spring ratings as far as can remember are posted on this FORUM (http://p202.ezboard.com/bofnaracingnitrotalkback) you may have to have a good look round but all the info is there, good luck
michael
I've posted the same question there already...I've got more replies and info here.

[J_Bone]

Is there a trick to putting together 1/8th scale wheels. I got the Panther Komoto2's and the foam seems to be to big? Are they suppose to be that way. I don't remeber my T Maxx, RC10 T4 or sedan tires being like that.

I know about cutting the edges of the foam, but do I just cram it in?

[eb4flys]

Is there a trick to putting together 1/8th scale wheels. I got the Panther Komoto2's and the foam seems to be to big? Are they suppose to be that way. I don't remeber my T Maxx, RC10 T4 or sedan tires being like that.

I know about cutting the edges of the foam, but do I just cram it in?

got it in one, just cram it in, you dont want them to soft, good luck

[gotspeed_2000]

Is there a trick to putting together 1/8th scale wheels. I got the Panther Komoto2's and the foam seems to be to big? Are they suppose to be that way. I don't remeber my T Maxx, RC10 T4 or sedan tires being like that.

I know about cutting the edges of the foam, but do I just cram it in?


You'll really like these tires. I run these at my local track and they hook up really well. I've also tried the crime fighters, but I prefer the panther tires more. The inserts are kinda thick, but stuff them in like eb4flys said. They'll make the tire stiffer and less prone to failure. Good luck.

[SN VipeR]

Here's the best method for gluing tyres. Once again from Team TWF8.
Put that page into your favourites, buggy drivers of the planet! ;)

http://www.twf8.ws/new/tech/tip/tyregluing.html

I always make my tyres that way and I've never had one blow up on me.

[J_Bone]

Do you cut the edges of the foam at all?

[SN VipeR]

Nope. The wheels are unbalanced enough without me cutting stuff off. What I do though is make holes into the tyres so the water comes out.

[J_Bone]

Nope. The wheels are unbalanced enough without me cutting stuff off. What I do though is make holes into the tyres so the water comes out.
You drill holes in the rims? if so what size?

[eb4flys]

You drill holes in the rims? if so what size?

i use a small hole punch and make two holes in the tyre, you can actually buy a tyre punch, but a hole in the rim will have the sme effect but the water will go on your drive shafts rather than on your fellow drivers when you spin those wheels, :rolleyes:

[SN VipeR]

As said, I make holes into the tyres, not the rims. I use a belt hole puncher and if the tyre is preglued I heat up an old hex driver and punch through it. (Smells big time though)
I don't see holes in the rim having the same effect as the water obviously won't come out due to centrifugal force pushing it to the outside of the tyre.

[Anemic_SluG]

The reason for putting a hole in the tire is so the water will exit the tire and not stay inside degrading the foam. If the holes are in the rim the water moves to the outside of the tire with no escape route.

[Y2KGTP]

I was thinking of getting a Hyper 7 PBS RTR as an entry into 1/8 scale (have 3 XXX-NT's now)

Is it fairly competitive? I'm not looking for an Xray competition, but just a decent buggy, and it already comes with a legal size engine, and a starter box, which is a huge plus....

[gotspeed_2000]

The hyper series buggies are pretty good and can perform fairly well. Especially considering how inexpensive these buggies are when compared to other kits. The engine is pretty good, and you get a starter box as well. Make sure to upgrade the steering servo and buy a nimh receiver pack and you should be pretty much set to either race or play. Also, a set of tires that work well at your track would be recommended. Another plus is the parts for any of the hyper buggies are easily found on ebay and they are also pretty cheap too. I've bought ton's a spares so far, but haven't broken anything other than a couple of front drive shafts due to driver error. You can also wire the starter box to use a 12 volt battery if you want to also. If you plan on racing, you might want to pick up a racing clutch and engine. But for the most part, you should be able to have a ton of fun with the buggy stock except the steering servo. Good luck.

[Anemic_SluG]

[QUOTE=Y2KGTP]I was thinking of getting a Hyper 7 PBS RTR



I have one and it can be just as fast and fun to drive as any other buggy I have ever driven. It is very durable and parts are readily available. I don't believe at this time you can go wrong with this choice. Also I recommend a set of tires since the ones that come with the buggy are good all purpose but won't handle well on most tracks.

[Y2KGTP]

thanks for the positive input on the Hyper 7 PBS RTR.....Think this will be my next toy... :D

[Aluma]

hey guys, a friend of mine has a hyper 7 buggy(normal edition) that he got as a gift. It seems pretty out of whack. Is there a site I can visit to get racing setups? Do any of you have a good starting setup other than the box setup? Any help will be appreciated.

[Anemic_SluG]

Check out this site it gives some good setup advice for the Hyper

http://www.twf8.ws/new/home.htm

Also tons of info in the ofna message board

www.ofna.com

[Aluma]

thanks... I already tried both, but they just have Blank setup sheets! :P
I need the info that supposed to be IN those sheets for racing on hard/slick/dusty/bumpy race track with all relevant data like shock position/spring color/camber rod positions/caster position/oils/toe/etc.... I know HOW to tune a suspension myself, but dont have a base race setup for that buggy OR the time to do it for my buddy.

[eb4flys]

aluma
see THIS LINK (http://www.cmldistribution.co.uk/car_setup.php) i know that the tracks wont mean much to you, as they are in the UK, but if you let me know your track conditions, i can send you a set-up sheet by email, also i take it you have standard diffs in the buggy, as for starting you might not want to hear this but the box really is the best bet,

[Aluma]

thanks... I think I found one to start with at that link. Oh, the conditions for my track are hard,slick, dusty, bumpy, rutted, broken, big. sometimes they water it, but mostly they dont.

[eb4flys]

thanks... I think I found one to start with at that link. Oh, the conditions for my track are hard,slick, dusty, bumpy, rutted, broken, big. sometimes they water it, but mostly they dont.

what diffs are you using standard, spider,or torsen

[Aluma]

stock box hyper...standard diffs.

[Y2KGTP]

Well, I just ordered a OFNA HYPER 7 PBS 1/8 Buggy....any suggestions for out of the box hop-ups?

The included radio is going first, as I have a MX3-S already

[evild]

Well, I just ordered a OFNA HYPER 7 PBS 1/8 Buggy....any suggestions for out of the box hop-ups? The included radio is going first, as I have a MX3-S already
Be sure to seal the engine first. Get a stronger steering servo. Then an OFNA 053 or 086 tuned pipe. Replace the AA batteries with a 1200 battery pack. Aluminum clutch shoes and stiffer clutch springs will help it take off from the line better.

Other than the above, aluminum/carbon fiber parts can be purchased as you go.

[Mystracing]

Aluma - Here's my base setup it's a pretty nuetral setup. For a slicker track you would probably want to soften it up a bit, but it should get you in the ballpark if your car is a C-Hub.

Hyper 7 Setup (http://www.rc10gthobby.com/~mystracing/h7base.pdf)

[gotspeed_2000]

Well, I just ordered a OFNA HYPER 7 PBS 1/8 Buggy....any suggestions for out of the box hop-ups?

The included radio is going first, as I have a MX3-S already

First and foremost would be a better steering servo. Also some tires that hook up at your local track. Another thing would be turnbuckles for the steering if I'm not mistaken cause the PBS comes with only threaded rods that have to be disassembled in order to make adjustments. Also, if you look on ebay you'll find tons of new parts for cheap. Some sellers will open up kits and sell the parts way cheaper than buying them new in bags. I would highly recommend aluminum chassis braces also. Also, there have been a few sellers opening up the PCR PRO version that comes with thicker machined shock towers that you might want to consider also. those have been selling for around 20-30 for each tower. Also, you might want to consider getting the werks clutch for your buggy. It's way better IMO than any other clutch kit around. You can get them on ebay for around 65 dollars shipped. It will outlast most other clutch systems if not all of them. I've had good success with the carbon shoes. They give good bite and have been holding up very well. But again, the most important are the steering servo, chassis braces, and turnbuckles for the steering are the highest IMO. The next would be the clutch, thicker shock towers, and the Ofna Jammin JP pipe. Good luck.

[dksu]

I have a pcr rtr. My brake does not engage. It was like this ever since i opened the box. Any suggestions as to how I can fix this problem? I have no brake at all. :confused:

[dksu]

I have a pcr rtr. My brake does not engage. It was like this ever since i opened the box. Any suggestions as to how I can fix this problem? I have no brake at all. :confused:

[J_Bone]

I have a pcr rtr. My brake does not engage. It was like this ever since i opened the box. Any suggestions as to how I can fix this problem? I have no brake at all. :confused:
Mine was the same way when I got it.
ADJUST THEM! You can extend the EPA on your Radio or use the locking collars on the rods that pull the brakes. Unscrew the grub screws and slide them closer to the brake.

[dksu]

Can you adjust EPA on stock rtr radio? How do you do it? Can you please be more specific? I"m a newbie sorry. thanks


Mine was the same way when I got it.
ADJUST THEM! You can extend the EPA on your Radio or use the locking collars on the rods that pull the brakes. Unscrew the grub screws and slide them closer to the brake.

[J_Bone]

Can you adjust EPA on stock rtr radio? How do you do it? Can you please be more specific? I"m a newbie sorry. thanks

Oh, sorry, I don't think the stock one has a end point? I could be wrong. I never looked at the stock one, and I sold it.

But to adjust the brake rods, all you have to do is adjust the locking collars.
Here:PCR laydown setup (http://ofna.com/pdf/PCRservos.pdf)
On section 6, there are 3 small collars in the drawing. 2 are for the brake and 1 is for the throttle. Loosen the set screws and slide the collars closer it the servo horn to take up the slack.

[dksu]

I moved the 2 collars towards the brake and I got rid of the slack, to a point that it will almost engage brakes in nuetral. It seems like the brake is now engaging but I don't visually see the brake discs being squeezed hard enough. It seems like the pads are squeezed only a millemeter or two at most. Is this enough to stop the car?


Oh, sorry, I don't think the stock one has a end point? I could be wrong. I never looked at the stock one, and I sold it.

But to adjust the brake rods, all you have to do is adjust the locking collars.
Here:PCR laydown setup (http://ofna.com/pdf/PCRservos.pdf)
On section 6, there are 3 small collars in the drawing. 2 are for the brake and 1 is for the throttle. Loosen the set screws and slide the collars closer it the servo horn to take up the slack.

[J_Bone]

I moved the 2 collars towards the brake and I got rid of the slack, to a point that it will almost engage brakes in nuetral. It seems like the brake is now engaging but I don't visually see the brake discs being squeezed hard enough. It seems like the pads are squeezed only a millemeter or two at most. Is this enough to stop the car?


Well for me, your brakes are too tight. But YOU need to go drive it and see how you like it.

[eb4flys]

dksu, if you cant adjust the brakes any more on the collars, undo the bolts that hold the brake pads to the center diff mount, but not to much, let us know how you get on.

[Karadjas]

I just put a payment down for a Pro-R. I had to, the HS was selling them FAST! Tuesday will be so glorious, I have my engine and radio ready, only have to wait 5 more days.

[gotspeed_2000]

I just started to break in this engine today, and I have to say that it was the easiest start to breaking in a 21 that I've ever had. The engine started right up and it doesn't have excessive pinch that alot of other motors have. I've put 4 tanks through it so far and plan on doing atleast another 6-12 tanks tomorrow. I can already see that this engine is going to be a powerhouse. Makes me also want to pick one up for my mutant maxx as well. I given up on the sirio Kanai 1 engine that I put about 15 tanks though because the pinch was too great and was getting stuck at tdc when I was trying to run it. It looks like that is going to be regulated to back up duties for now. If you're looking for a new engine, you might want to consider this motor. Good luck

[eb4flys]

hey gotspeed, nice to see you got your new motor, let me know how it goes when you finished the break in, unfortunatly i have to have the motors given by the sponsor, would be nice to try somethng different for a change, but saying that i am very happy with the ones i am using, so any more plans for this buggy of yours or i guess you must have done it all now, only thing left is gold plate all round..... :cool:

[gotspeed_2000]

Hey Eb4flys, it must be nice to have motors to run from sponsers though. Yeah, I'm pretty much done with my car. I have just about every aftermarket part for it that I'd want. I just added the PCR rear wing support and picked up a spare 8 gear center spider diff. I'm pretty sure I could build another fully optioned PCR pro from the spares that I've already accumulated. Saw some good deals on ebay last month and picked up another long machined chassis and some PCR parts as well. Now I have 3 sets of PCR shock towers as well a set of Titan tech titanium shock towers as well. Was thinking of making a car and selling it to fund another 1.8th scale buggy I was thinking of getting(TTR S3), but am thinking that I should just race what I have since I have all the parts I'll ever need. So far the werks engine is going well and the first couple of tanks were really easy. I plan on running a couple more tanks on Saturday at the track to break it in a little more and then start running it on the track. The Sirio just had too much pinch and it was a bear to try and get it running. I only put through about 8 tanks on it and it still gets stuck at tdc even with an extra head shim and another shim on the glow plug as well. I guess I'll try to put more tanks through it when I have a chance later.

[eb4flys]

hey gotspeed,
sounds like its all going to plan, if it helps on your choice of TTs3, i also used to run 2 different buggies and your right what you say, its always a parts issue, so now i stick to ofna, i think alot of people become buggy fashion slaves, they get great lap times with there buggy but a new one comes out and they have to get it, so there they are at the track doing slower lap times because they are not used to the new buggy and when it breaks...no parts, all that just to have the latest buggy on the market, so i did the same as you got another buggy together and if parts are needed you have everything to hand and you can see what needs to be replaced. by the way have you seen the different color side guards you can get to give your hyper a different look. mine is always covered in mud so i dont bother, but you sound like you look after yours a bit better than me. also a bit of a cheat at the track, some nice big fuel filters that give you an extra 30 secs of run time, which can mean first or second place...not legal in EFRA events. lets see a pic of your buggy now its all sorted out
michael

[gotspeed_2000]

Went to the track today, but got a late start running because I had to finnish breaking in and re-tuning my new engine. Man, that collari LB7 has tons of power. I was clearing the quads and triples pretty easy and was very consistant. And the engine was still making more power as the day went on. Temps were good at around 210 degrees, and it was still a little on the fat side.
I was wondering what airfilters anyone else is running. I'm running the ofna S-tube with a rb airfilter and I'm not that happy with the filter qualities. I was thinking of trying the filter from the MBX5, but not sure how it will fit. Any suggestions? I guess I'm still not completely sold on the RB airfilter and how it fits. It's larger than the stock filter so it is up against the body so if I flip, then the body pushes up against the filter. I'm still weary of the body pushing the filter tube off the carb in hard crashes.
And I will try to take a picture of my car a little later. I just tore the engine down to clean and re-oil it so my car not all together at the moment. But today was sure fun, I was running with 3 other revos at the same time and was driving safe around them trying to find lines around the track, but passed them when we hit the quads and triples in the air. It was a blast today, and I can't wait to run again in couple of weeks.

[eb4flys]

gotspeed, there is a problem with the S bend in the ofna filter tube as it is so thin, it tends to collapse and starve the engine of air, of course you never get to see this as its zooming along at stupid miles an hour, the answer is to put a 1/10 shock spring inside the tube to stop this, other filters i use or have used with no problem are RB, thunder tiger (MTA4) or mugan, apart from that, if you find a better one let me know glad the new motor is doing its job.

[gotspeed_2000]

I think I'm gonna try a Kyosho filter from the kanai Buggy. Maybe it's just the filters I've been getting, but it seems that the RB sponge filters for the primary element are a bit short and seem loose in the filter housing once assemble. I would like to have the foam filter a little longer so that I would need to compress it more for it to fit into the filter housing. I'm thinking that I will either try the kyosho filter or cut one of the inner filter elements in half and use rubber cement to glue it to another element to that it is longer without any seems in the element. Does this sound like a good idea? Thanks.

[eb4flys]

hi gotspeed, i have to say i have never had the problem of the inner filter being to short, one thing i do is put grease on both ends of the inner filter so you get a good seal on the top and bottom of the housing, as you can see from the pic i have the RB and have to say it fits great, and you can also use it on the S shaped bend that came with your buggy, as for the rubber cement i guess if its not going to let any dirt in then why not give it a go, but with your new engine you have a lot to loose if it fails.
http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/Picture%20003.jpg

[eb4flys]

gotspeed forgot to mention i use the proline crowd pleazer shell, more room on the top

[gotspeed_2000]

gotspeed forgot to mention i use the proline crowd pleazer shell, more room on the top

Thanks for the info on the filter. I was wondering what kind of grease you use on the ends of the filter to help seal it better? I was thinking I have a bunch of transmission gear grease I've been using to grease the diff gears and drive pinions, so if this is okay then I'll use it. Also, that's a nice engine you got there. Is that the Picco P7R? If so, that's a great engine! I also bought a crowd pleaser body, but haven't painted it yet. I also picked up a fluorescent yellow proline wing. I was thinking fluorescent yellow, Fluorescent Orange, and Pearl Blue. Not sure on the design yet though. Thanks for the info on the body. I wasn't too sure if the crowd pleaser body had more clearance or not. Maybe I'll need to paint it up sooner. I also ordered some kyosho air filters off ebay. Had a guy selling the entire filter assembly with the pipe holder for only 2.99 plus shipping. I was also wondering if the mugen foam filters fit the RB filter? There's another guy selling packs of 12 foam filters for around 20 dollars. I was thinking of picking this up, but if it doesn't fit, then I'll skip it or pick up a mugen assembly to run. Thanks for the info.

[SN VipeR]

The Mugen filter is great. Its inner element is much bigger than what you find on RB and other filters. (Hence it probably won't fit into the RB) And you can still use an outer element from RB so the inner filter won't need to be replaced so soon.
At the price the inner Mugen elements come it's the safest thing for the engine to replace the inner element after half a Gallon instead of cleaning it and risking pushing residual dirt further into the filter and also expanding the foam pores.

[eb4flys]

ok first off i agree with viper i never clean filters i always throw them, if you buy the mugen filters they will fit at a squeeze, you can use any grease you have lying around, as its only sealing the ends it matters not, as for the engine, our team is lucky enough to be sponsored by the UK importer and tecnician for these engines they are itialian and made by Cipolla, they stopped making engines a few years back after many world and european wins, and have only in the past 2 years started up again i have nothing but praise for them, amazing bottom end, the one on my buggy is the .21 FZR off road they also do the boost version and a .28 freeclimber for the trucks, unsure if they are on sale in the US as yet but will be very soon. our season starts in 13 days so am started to act like a big kid at the moment, yahooo

[gotspeed_2000]

I will try and pick up those foam filters when he auctions them again. I too throw away the filters instead of washing them and trying to reuse them. Thanks for the info on the grease as well. I will try your grease tip and see it that also helps. I've heard a little about the cipolla engines, but that was more of the their older engines. It's good to see good companies making a comeback. I hope you're ready for your season, your car sure looks ready to get dirty. Good luck and get dirty! Thanks again.

[hunta100]

hi i have just put in a linner and piston in mt os 21 engine an now my stater box will not turn it over i have put fuel down the head but the fly wheel is realy tight can any one help me?

[eb4flys]

hi huta, ok what you need to do is, get a hair dryer and heat up the head on your engine, you will have to do this for a while to allow the head to expand, also dont forget to undo the glow plug a quarter turn, the buggy will still start with the glow plug loose, as soon as its heated up with the hair dryer, put it straight on the starter box and it will turn over ok, even if it does not start straight away, keep turning it over to get some heat in the engine, when you have finished running the engine, make sure the piston is at bottom dead center so it does not stick in the liner, you may have to do this a couple of times to wear the piston in, sorry if i went into to much detail but was unsure of how much experience you have with RC, any problems give me a shout, and good luck

[rcdude2711]

Im in the market for a 1/8 buggy and at the moment am leaning towards the hyper pbs. Itll be used for both bashing and racing, from what ive read i know i'd be fine from the racing standpoint im just wondering how durable the buggy is, will it take a pretty sound beating or is it more of a race buggy? Thanks for any help.

[eb4flys]

rc dude, i think you will find the PBS to be a good buggy for your money to both bash and race with,the .21 8 port is a good robust engine (comes with that engine in the UK not sure about US) i prefer C hub but thats only my preference, you will get a good 50/50 split on what people like hub wise, the first thing you will need to change is the stock steering servo, which is a bit usless, keep it for a spare just in case, but if you go for somethng like the hitec 645 or similar you should be fine, if you feel you want to upgrade the PBS at anytime there are plenty of hopups on the market, so go get it, and start having some fun, let us know how you get on. michael

[gotspeed_2000]

Eb4flys is right on the money. The PBS should be fine for bashing and a little racing with the upgraded servo. Also with gas cars, you should think about upgrading the radio in time. Gettting something FM will give you a better signal and more confidence in the car. Also, another thing would be a rechareable receiver pack to power the radio system on the car. You would need a charger, but you'll get more power out of your servos, and save money in the long run by not having to by AA batteries all the time. Good luck.

[rcdude2711]

Thanks guys, im definitely down for a high powered servo and a receiver pack already. Gotta put a high torque servo in pretty much every rtr buggy to make it handle as well as it can. Id heard from a couple places that the starter box that comes with it isnt up to all that much, is this true? Is it possible to buy a shaft start system to fit on the engine cos it wouldnt be a problem having a starter box with me at the track its just having to lug it around the local common/bmx track i bash at might be a bit of a pain.

[eb4flys]

hey rcdude, as far as the starter box goes, it will do nothing more than the job its meant for, its not te best as you say but its not the worst.you will find it hard to start the engine with the standard starter box but we can help you with advice when you get that far, as for a shaft start, you will loose some power due to the one way bearing, also on the subject of the bearing they dont last for ever and are a pretty bad designe to be honest, so i guess imo the starter box is the way to go.

[rcdude2711]

Are there any weak points about this buggy or stuff that seems to cause problems as far as you guys know? I havent heard of anything searching through these forums but i just wanted to be sure so i could buy the stronger parts with the buggy if its the case.

Bit of topic but my friend has a stock lightning and its pretty much a given that whatever happens my buggy MUST destroy him. I think RCCA clocked the Hyper 7 PCR with the same 8 port at 48mph, can i expect a similar speed from the PBS and anyone know if this is faster than the lightning. I plan on buying i think its a jammin jp1 or 2 pipe with the buggy, will this make much of a difference to its speed/acceleration for the $65 theyre charging for it?

Any other hop ups/speed tips appreciated. Thanks again guys.

[eb4flys]

hey dude, to be honest, you will never find that much difference in 1/8 scale speed but for bottom end, make sure you have a good clutch with good springs somethng like the mugen 1.1 springs will give you better bottom end as you can sit with higher revs on the start line, i would also suggest getting a spare set of pivot balls, as they do bend after a big crash and are not expensive, as for other hopups, most of them are for show, i suggest you wait till you break something then replace it with something stronger, and as for beating your buddy...pratice makes perfect, i can only promise you one thing and that is you will have a hell of a lot of fun!!!
michael
WWW.TEAMCRASH.COM (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)

[J_Bone]

eb4fly,
are you hyperprouk on the OFNA boards?

[eb4flys]

sure am j_bone, i used to race thunder tigers hence the name on here, its good to spread yourself about a bit...what gave it away the team crash sig i guess :p

[J_Bone]

sure am j_bone, i used to race thunder tigers hence the name on here, its good to spread yourself about a bit...what gave it away the team crash sig i guess :p

Ya, I remember seeing the buggy posted on the OFNA boards....Cool. ;)

[rcdude2711]

Hey eb4flys from your website i saw you race at 3A raceway, thats right around near Crawley right? I remember it from when i was looking up tracks for my Maxx. I guess i live about 1/2 hour or something away. Thats pretty sweet, ill definitely come down one race day sometime and check it out, hopefully with a new pbs!!! How often do you guys race down there? Do you ever have any days to just come down and bash around on the track?

[eb4flys]

hey dude, i live 10 mins from the track, and spend alot of time working up there with slim the race director, actually been there today laying the blue tube, if you check the site you will see we will be having pratice days this year as well as race days, due to the track being to soft we had to cancel the first week-ends meet, and just hoping that it dries out enough for the first race day on the 20th i am also trying to organise a pratice/bash day on the 19th again check the forum at 3ARACEWAY (http://www.3araceway.com) for up to date info and dont forget to join the forum, if you want to add me to msn you will find my details on the 3A forum
michael

[rcdude2711]

Alright cool, yeah i wont be getting the buggy till some time in the summer holidays. I have family out in the states and we visit them a couple times every year so i always get my rc stuff when im out there, its just so much cheaper especially with the awesome xchange rate right now. Hopefully ill be able to make it down some weekend with my maxx though. Looks like a pretty sweet track you guys have got going on there.

[eb4flys]

try HERE FOR A PBS (http://www.stellamodels.net) the cheapest i have seen
michael

[rcdude2711]

Where on the site exactly, cos i couldnt find one anywhere?

[tgivler]

I am in the mode to buy a starter buggy, I currently run 1/8th scale on road and was thinking of getting a Hyper 7 TQ Sport and upgrading parts as I go, has anyone seen one of these and if so what are your impressions and suggestions?

[Y2KGTP]

Good deal here....tell him Erik sent you :D

http://www.donalds-hobby.com/PROD/Scripts/prodView.asp?idproduct=1387

[rcdude2711]

Thanks alot Y2KGTP that looks like a sweet deal, hope it lasts for a few more days till i have the money though. Do you race down at 3A also?

[Y2KGTP]

Thanks alot Y2KGTP that looks like a sweet deal, hope it lasts for a few more days till i have the money though. Do you race down at 3A also?

If you maybe pay part of it up front, he might hold it for you......I have just made a few practice days at Leisure Raceway in Crest Hill, IL

I think he might have 3 left, so give him a hollar......

Erik

[gotspeed_2000]

If you maybe pay part of it up front, he might hold it for you......I have just made a few practice days at Leisure Raceway in Crest Hill, IL

I think he might have 3 left, so give him a hollar......

Erik

Haven't seen you online or posting for a while. How's the buggy treating you? The last time I saw you post you had just either ordered it or bought it out right. Hope it's going good for you. I just teared down my buggy for preparition for a weekend of practice and then racing the following week.

Also, had a questions for EB4flys or anyone else who races: I was wondering what rear toe plate you are using. I just changed to the PCR 3 degree rear toe plate, but it binds alot against the front suspension arm holder since I don't think it's made for the three degree toe angle. I looked online, but have not been able to find a rear front lower suspension mount to match. Thanks for the time.

[SN VipeR]

It's normal for the suspension pins to bind up when using a lot of toe. Even my Mugen does that. As long as the arms move freely you're fine.

[eb4flys]

sorry guys been away for a few days to do some testing before the new season, Dude to answer your question on the buggy at stella, you need to email them and they will give you a good price, but i have another option for you, if you call colin at one way modelsport in turners hill, best to call him sat on 01342719190 and tell him michael gave you the number, he is our team sponsor and will beat most prices out there, having said that, i just checked Y2K link and that is a good price from his guy.
Hi gotspeed, i cant remember if you have the PBS or the C hub, mine is also slightly different as i have the extended chassis version, you will as viper said always get a small amount of binding, but if its too much post a pic so we can have a look. hope all is well
michael

[eb4flys]

I am in the mode to buy a starter buggy, I currently run 1/8th scale on road and was thinking of getting a Hyper 7 TQ Sport and upgrading parts as I go, has anyone seen one of these and if so what are your impressions and suggestions?

to answe you question, rather than buy the sport, if you can manage a little more money for the next one up the ladder this will save you money in upgrades in the long run, i am talking about the UK version of the sport. if you are in the US can you post a link for the TQ sport, so we can have a look, whatever you choose hyper is the way to go, they are a great buggy with a good pedigree to there name

[gotspeed_2000]

Hi Michael, thanks for the information. Sorry I omitted the information that would've been helpfull. I'm running the extended machined chassis also, using the Standard C-hub suspension. The hinge pins are binding quite a bit, but the suspension arm is hindered only a little bit. I'm trying to get some steering and stability out of my hyper. It's really fast, but need more steering in the in-field and also need a little more help squaring the buggy up comming out of turns to set up for the quads more consistantly. In addition to adding more rear toe, I also went to the 17 degree front hub carriers. I was using the 20 degree ones, but our track doesn't have alot of areas where you can put down serious power in the turns. Alot of the infield is taken off throttle or under braking while powering out, so the extra caster might not be needed, but I'm not sure. The rear toe change I hope will help the buggy square up better and give more speed coming out of the turns. I was running the stock setting which I think was just about square on the rear. Also, running 5, 7, 3 diff oils with standard diffs. Was thinking of installing the spider 8 gear center, with 5,000 in it, but heard that the result would be similar to running a standard with 7,000 oil in it. Any other ideas? Thanks for the time.

[eb4flys]

hi gotspeed, i gess your track sounds similar to ours, i run 3 spiders, and for a bit more coming out the tight infield, i use 10'000 F 10'000 C and 5000 R sounds like a strange setup but works great, and even better when you get bluegroove, send me your email in a PM and ill send you the setup sheet i use you can check out our TRACK (http://www.3araceway.com) conditions, as for squaring the buggy up out of turns, this might sound strange but as you start to loose it on the turns rather than back off the gas give it more, 90% of the time this will put you back on track. your shock oil will also have a bit affect on keeping the buggy square and on giving you more direct steering, i cant see the 17 degree hubs helping to much on the infield corners, what servo are you using and do you have lay down servo trays. have to say i am still a bit lost on the pins binding. this really should not happen too much . have a look at my setup sheet and see what you think, if it doesnt help i will devise another sheet that might, does your track have a web site i can look at. if you go to my website you can contact me through that and leave your msn messenger ID so i can add you, my site is WWW.TEAMCRASH.COM (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)
michael

[J_Bone]

Hi Michael, thanks for the information. Sorry I omitted the information that would've been helpfull. I'm running the extended machined chassis also, using the Standard C-hub suspension. The hinge pins are binding quite a bit, but the suspension arm is hindered only a little bit. I'm trying to get some steering and stability out of my hyper. It's really fast, but need more steering in the in-field and also need a little more help squaring the buggy up comming out of turns to set up for the quads more consistantly. In addition to adding more rear toe, I also went to the 17 degree front hub carriers. I was using the 20 degree ones, but our track doesn't have alot of areas where you can put down serious power in the turns. Alot of the infield is taken off throttle or under braking while powering out, so the extra caster might not be needed, but I'm not sure. The rear toe change I hope will help the buggy square up better and give more speed coming out of the turns. I was running the stock setting which I think was just about square on the rear. Also, running 5, 7, 3 diff oils with standard diffs. Was thinking of installing the spider 8 gear center, with 5,000 in it, but heard that the result would be similar to running a standard with 7,000 oil in it. Any other ideas? Thanks for the time.


Hey gotspeed,
My track has a few tight 180's and I had a hard time with those corners. I was running 5-7spider-3. I adjusted my caster and it didn't help. So I took out the 3000K in the rear diff and put in 1000K. WOW, that made a huge difference. My next step was to go lower in the front to 3000K. But it's good right where it's at now. My track doesn't get blue groove, so there is no way I would even consider anything higher than 7000K.

I also dialed my brakes to lock up the rear, but just drag a bit in the front. That helped with the late breaking and squaring up the corners.
I'm not sure of your track's dirt, but mine is hard clay with loose stuff on top. It probably would get blue groove, but they don't sweep it, they only water it.

[Y2KGTP]

Haven't seen you online or posting for a while. How's the buggy treating you? The last time I saw you post you had just either ordered it or bought it out right. Hope it's going good for you. I just teared down my buggy for preparition for a weekend of practice and then racing the following week.



Yeah, I bought the Jammin Buggy, it's in a few pieces right now, as I am in the process of swapping in 5/7/3 diff oil.....other than that, it's stock....

I gutted the radio system, and put in my setup from my AD stadium truck, as it is for sale on Ebay.....I just got bored of it, and wanted something bigger.....XTM XLB is on the way, along with 4 Revo's & 4 Hyper 7 PBS RTR's (I part them out on ebay to pay for my hobby :D )

[gotspeed_2000]

Thanks for the help Jbone, I was also thinking about going to the lighter oil in the rear, but decided to try the reduced caster up front. If that doesn't work, I'll try the 1,000 wt oil in the rear and go back to the 20 degree caster blocks. I know our track here is kinda weird with carpet down on the track, but it's because the owner doesn't want to maintain the track as much so the carpet helps keep maintenance down. It's a small track, but the guys who go there to race are easy to get along with and the owner is cool. I'll try and take pictures of it later this week when we go for practice.
Also, thanks Michael for the time. I will send you my email later and would appreciate the help. At practice the other week, my buggy was fast enough to qualify in the A main, but I would've been mid pack and did notice that my car was a bit slower in the infield than I would like. I'm also thinking of changing tires to something with less forward bite. I was running panther komodo's and proline crime fighters, but they both have alot of forward bite especially on the carpet. I was thinking a change to proline knuckles to help get the rear around too.
Anyway, thanks for the time and help guys. Just a few more things I need to do to get my buggy ready for this weekend, and maybe I will do the switch to the lighter oil in the rear before this weekend. Thanks again.

[eb4flys]

im sure j-bone will agree, that if your getting in the A's then your not doing bad at all. good drive

[gotspeed_2000]

im sure j-bone will agree, that if your getting in the A's then your not doing bad at all. good drive

Yeah, it's nice to make the Amain, but I would want to win too:) Maybe I'm just trying to push too hard, but we'll see. I know my buggy is a little slower when off power, so that's why I wanted to reduce the caster. Doesn't reducing caster increase off power steering? I don't really remember too much about the effects of caster. It's been a few years since I raced off road, but in onroad the decrease of caster usually brought more off power steering at the sacrifice of more on power steering. Because there aren't any turns to power through, I'm thinking that it would be a worth while chance to take durring practice. We'll see, but if anyone else knows about the effects of caster, I would appreciate it. Thanks again guys.

[J_Bone]

Here, check this web site. It has some useful information on setups.
http://home.tiscali.be/be067749/58/bug/print.htm

[gotspeed_2000]

Thanks guys for the info. I went back to the 20 degree front hub carriers after some thought and advice. I also removed the 3000 wt oil in the rear and replaced it with 1000 wt so the rear end would push less. If I don't get the steering I'm looking for, then I'll try a little more camber up front. It was kinda a bummer since I had already put together most of my buggy only to take it apart to replace the oil in the rear. Also, I figured out what went wrong with the rear hinge pin binding too much. I was using the aluminum lower rear holder instead and it created a weired angle. I went back to stock plastic one and the binding is gone. Does anyone know if they make an aluminum one for the rear lower front hinge pin holder? I tried looking online at Ofna's website, but there was none available. I also noticed while fixing and replacing parts I noticed a cracked the upper graphite radio plate. Good thing I had the PCR machined piece and replaced it. But the PCR machined plate moves the throttle servo away a little from the center of the chassis. Can't wait for this weekend. Thanks again.

[Y2KGTP]

Just curious, what other Ofna buggys is this car compatable with? Do the shocks\suspension\diffs\chassis fit the other Hyper 7 line, such as the C-Hub?

[gotspeed_2000]

Just curious, what other Ofna buggys is this car compatable with? Do the shocks\suspension\diffs\chassis fit the other Hyper 7 line, such as the C-Hub?


You might want to check with ebay or find someone who lives near you to see about the compatibility issues between the buggies. Usually the shocks are pretty easy to change, but it's hard to say about the other major components of the buggies. Good luck.

[J_Bone]

Thanks guys for the info. I went back to the 20 degree front hub carriers after some thought and advice. I also removed the 3000 wt oil in the rear and replaced it with 1000 wt so the rear end would push less. If I don't get the steering I'm looking for, then I'll try a little more camber up front. It was kinda a bummer since I had already put together most of my buggy only to take it apart to replace the oil in the rear. Also, I figured out what went wrong with the rear hinge pin binding too much. I was using the aluminum lower rear holder instead and it created a weired angle. I went back to stock plastic one and the binding is gone. Does anyone know if they make an aluminum one for the rear lower front hinge pin holder? I tried looking online at Ofna's website, but there was none available. I also noticed while fixing and replacing parts I noticed a cracked the upper graphite radio plate. Good thing I had the PCR machined piece and replaced it. But the PCR machined plate moves the throttle servo away a little from the center of the chassis. Can't wait for this weekend. Thanks again.


If you still are not happy with how it turns after adjusted the camber, try lowering the front diff oil too. There are other options like softer/stiffer springs, shock positions on the front and rear....it's all realitive.

[eb4flys]

Just curious, what other Ofna buggys is this car compatable with? Do the shocks\suspension\diffs\chassis fit the other Hyper 7 line, such as the C-Hub?

Y2K, i thnk you were asking will the PBS bits fit the C hub, well the answer is some will and some wont, the diffs yes, the shocks yes suspension, some of it, are you thinking of changing from PBS to C hub ? then we might be able to help out a bit more
michael

Gotspeed, good luck for the weekend, we start out race season on sunday, so fingers crossed
michael

[gotspeed_2000]

I hope your weather holds up Eb4flys. I know you posted earlier that you guys run no matter what, but it sure would be nice to start the season with a nice weather race. I can't wait to see how the changes I've made will affect the performance on the track. Also, I changed to the crowd pleaser body, but since I'm running the non-laydown servo tray, the throttle servo linkeage hits the body when at full gas or under breaking. Also, the crowd pleaser is made for the shorter chassis, which I didn't know when I cut it. So the body is a little on the short side. I'm thinking of trying the new J-Concepts Illusion body for our buggy. The only real problem is that none of the local shops carry J-Concepts stuff. Also, I tried the Kyosho air filters and they worked pretty well. The inner foam has a very tight cell structure, unlike the RB filters. I'm thinking I'm going to be running the Kyosho inner filter with a RB prefilter for my races. Good luck this weekend Michael.

[eb4flys]

thanks gotspeed, ill try and post some pics from the race, i have to go run a new engine in for my spare buggy now otherwise i wont make it on time, and regarding the weather......its been great :eek:

[J_Bone]

I just got a J-Concepts Illusion body. I haven't painted it yet, but the shape of it looks sweet!!

[eb4flys]

j-bone,
when you get time can you post a pic of it on the buggy, before you paint it would be cool, need to check for clearance, never seen that body in the UK before.

[gotspeed_2000]

Michael, you can check out the body at www.jconcepts.net. They have different shots of the body, and I think that will be my next body.

[J_Bone]

j-bone,
when you get time can you post a pic of it on the buggy, before you paint it would be cool, need to check for clearance, never seen that body in the UK before.

Sure, I will when I get home from work today. gotspeeds link can give you a good idea too.

What area do you need to check clearance???


here's from the site:
http://www.jconcepts.net/shop/images/illuzion_Ofna4.jpg

[rcdude2711]

Sweet paint job on that buggy, Hey eb4flys i was hoping to make it down this weekend too. I havent got much further with that PBS yet cos im still comparing prices and stuff so i hope to maybe speak to you properly on sunday.

I was hoping on bringing my maxx down to race but the thing is that both my diffs are blew so i was just wondering if you have a trackside shop and how well stocked it is. Even if i cant get the parts by the weekend i might just come down and check out the track anyway.

Last thing, I'm only 15 and was just wondering if you get many other guys down at the track racing who are my age? Thanks

[eb4flys]

Sweet paint job on that buggy, Hey eb4flys i was hoping to make it down this weekend too. I havent got much further with that PBS yet cos im still comparing prices and stuff so i hope to maybe speak to you properly on sunday.

I was hoping on bringing my maxx down to race but the thing is that both my diffs are blew so i was just wondering if you have a trackside shop and how well stocked it is. Even if i cant get the parts by the weekend i might just come down and check out the track anyway.

Last thing, I'm only 15 and was just wondering if you get many other guys down at the track racing who are my age? Thanks

hi Dude, as for the trackside shop he wont be there for the first meeting, but you can go and see mark at trackside supplies at station road in horley he has eveything for trucks, hes not open sunday so you will need to go to him sat if poss tell hime michael from team crash sent you, you question on age, we do have guys your age and there are more expected this new season, the only thing i will say is you are supposed to be 16 to marshall for insurance reasons, but if you have a bit of sence on dealing with runaways ect then you will be ok, as for coming to watch, good idea you will get a feel for the track, come and say hello, you cant miss our pit it has a big team crash banner over it. hope to see you there
michael

[eb4flys]

What area do you need to check clearance???

sorry j-bone i meant the length not the clearance, i have the 4mm extended chassis and some shells dont fit very well they tend to be to far forward and as such the air filter touched both the RX box and the shell and i need extra air in this engine. looked at the jconcept shell and it looks like there might be a little more hight at the back, but what about the length??

[J_Bone]

What area do you need to check clearance???

sorry j-bone i meant the length not the clearance, i have the 4mm extended chassis and some shells dont fit very well they tend to be to far forward and as such the air filter touched both the RX box and the shell and i need extra air in this engine. looked at the jconcept shell and it looks like there might be a little more hight at the back, but what about the length??

I think you will be alright with length. 4mm isn't too much and you could just leave 4mm of extra trim on the rear?? The hole wouldn't align up, but that's easy enough to adjust.

[gotspeed_2000]

Does anyone know if Ofna makes an aluminum front lower mount for the rear of the C-Hub suspension with 3 Degree rear toe in? Thanks.

[hoopdog]

Hey guys! Im a newbie to the RC Zone forum, thanks for letting me in!

I am looking to buy a buggy for the first time and are leaning twoards the Ofna Hyper 7 pcr RTR. I like the idea that it gives you almost everything you need to get started. I have a couple questions about the pricing and the buggy. First, I am seing a huge price fluctuation on the net, Anywhere from $480 to $540 for the kit. Are some dealers selling the standard Hyper 7 pcr kit, but marking it as the RTR? hence the $480 price. Then some dealers selling the actual RTR kit for around $540.

(example) Tower hobbies sells the Hy-7 pcr RTR at $539, Nitrohouse sells the same kit for $474. So, apparently Nitrohhouse does alot more business with Ofna than Tower does. You would think with Tower being the Model mogul that it is that they would be able to undercut everybody else. I know Tower will match a price if you call them. Is Nitrohouse selling the non-rtr kit but marketing it as a RTR on there site? Maybe they are pulling the starter box out of the kit and selling the kit for 474? I have been burned by a couple items on ebay, so I'm not going to buy from there.

I am thinking of getting the kit and running it for awhile, then maybe do a truggy conversion (JT racing) how easy is it to convert a Hyper 7 to a truggy?

I apologize if the questions were answered earlier in the thread, that was alot of reading and maybe I missed it.

Thanks for any help!

[gotspeed_2000]

Hey guys! Im a newbie to the RC Zone forum, thanks for letting me in!

I am looking to buy a buggy for the first time and are leaning twoards the Ofna Hyper 7 pcr RTR. I like the idea that it gives you almost everything you need to get started. I have a couple questions about the pricing and the buggy. First, I am seing a huge price fluctuation on the net, Anywhere from $480 to $540 for the kit. Are some dealers selling the standard Hyper 7 pcr kit, but marking it as the RTR? hence the $480 price. Then some dealers selling the actual RTR kit for around $540.

(example) Tower hobbies sells the Hy-7 pcr RTR at $539, Nitrohouse sells the same kit for $474. So, apparently Nitrohhouse does alot more business with Ofna than Tower does. You would think with Tower being the Model mogul that it is that they would be able to undercut everybody else. I know Tower will match a price if you call them. Is Nitrohouse selling the non-rtr kit but marketing it as a RTR on there site? Maybe they are pulling the starter box out of the kit and selling the kit for 474? I have been burned by a couple items on ebay, so I'm not going to buy from there.

I am thinking of getting the kit and running it for awhile, then maybe do a truggy conversion (JT racing) how easy is it to convert a Hyper 7 to a truggy?

I apologize if the questions were answered earlier in the thread, that was alot of reading and maybe I missed it.

Thanks for any help!

There are two hyper PCR buggies: One is the pro version that comes with option parts as a kit without the engine or electronics, the other is the PCR RTR. In your case, going with the PCR rtr might be a better choice. It comes with a better engine(Hyper 8 port), and with a starter box as well as a entry level transmitter and servos. The starter box isn't the greatest, but it will do. If I'm not mistaken, JT makes a conversion to convert the hyper series into a truggy, but you will end up with a truggy with a short wheel base. If you want to run a truggy, then you might want to look at the hot bodies lightning stadium pro. It's based on a buggy drive train with with a longer chassis and suspension arms. You might want to check out www.acehardwarehobbies.com for pricing as well. They might be a bit lower than tower hobbies. Also, you can check out ebay as well. good luck.

[hoopdog]

Thanks gotspeed

[J_Bone]

I've posted this a few time here, but I'll do it again!!
I paid $399 shipped to my house....Check this web page, and call them!!! If you call, you can get great pricing!!! Ultimate hobbies (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//l136.html)

[J_Bone]

Does anyone know if Ofna makes an aluminum front lower mount for the rear of the C-Hub suspension with 3 Degree rear toe in? Thanks.
Would some of these work?? OFNA performance parts (http://www.ofna.com/teampcr/)

[gotspeed_2000]

I got to run my buggy this weekend for some testing before next weeks race and the switch to the 3 degree rear toe blocks and the switch to 1,000 wt oil in the rear was too much. At the begining, the rear was coming around really fast in the high traction area. But a switch back to the 2 degree rear blocks seemed to help alot. I can now take the corners alot faster and the car turns in better too. Was wondering what front drive shafts you guys are running? I'm using the CVD with 4 rings in the front, but it seems long and I've bent a few. Should I be using the 3 ring ones instead? I can't remember which it should be. Other than that, I burnt a throttle servo too, and had to switch to a standard for the rest of the day. It made a huge difference and I'm ready to install a new high torque/speed throttle servo. Thanks for everyone's help.

[eb4flys]

hi gotspeed, i think you have the longer chassis if i remember, but i do understand there is a 2mm longer and the 4mm longer version that i run, and to make it even worse, my uj's dont have any rings on but they are the longer version, and they came from ofna, there are however two seperate part numbers for the reg chassis and long chassis, and to even further confuse the issue we have different numbers to you :p so there this time i have been no help what so ever :confused:
as for the servo did you have your EPA adjusted right or did you just give it to much grunt on the day, on your subject of racing i have been to ashamed to post about mine, as usually being very organised i only took one buggy got half way round the second lap in front and then there was that awfull sound of piston saying hello to bearings and just about everything else made of metal inside my engine, i did have a spare whch i had told the guys we race for that it had been run in....the only problem was i lied i actually spent the week-end before with a girl, so i got a good telling off from the team sponsor and sent home from the days race.. :( felt and looked like a complete idiot, and all my own fault, but hey there is always next time to redeem myself.

[gotspeed_2000]

hi gotspeed, i think you have the longer chassis if i remember, but i do understand there is a 2mm longer and the 4mm longer version that i run, and to make it even worse, my uj's dont have any rings on but they are the longer version, and they came from ofna, there are however two seperate part numbers for the reg chassis and long chassis, and to even further confuse the issue we have different numbers to you :p so there this time i have been no help what so ever :confused:
as for the servo did you have your EPA adjusted right or did you just give it to much grunt on the day, on your subject of racing i have been to ashamed to post about mine, as usually being very organised i only took one buggy got half way round the second lap in front and then there was that awfull sound of piston saying hello to bearings and just about everything else made of metal inside my engine, i did have a spare whch i had told the guys we race for that it had been run in....the only problem was i lied i actually spent the week-end before with a girl, so i got a good telling off from the team sponsor and sent home from the days race.. :( felt and looked like a complete idiot, and all my own fault, but hey there is always next time to redeem myself.

We've all had days like that Michael. I'm currently using the 4mm extended chassis and like the current set up. It's kinda wierd since I thought adding rear toe would increase forward bite, but it works well so I'm sticking to it for now. Also, the length of the chassis only affects the rear center drive shaft on our cars. I also try to keep a couple of motors as a spare, but mines are not up to speed like my primary engine. I wish I had a sponser, though at times I'm sure you wish you didn't:). We're going to run this Friday, to see if my set up is what I really want. I also went to 40 wt oil all the way around down from the 50wt I was using earlier. Hope your next race goes better. See you later.

[eb4flys]

hi gotspeed, so we have the same chassis,loads of milling and 4mm longer at the back, i think to really get more front end down you might be better with a torsen front only, have you ever tried one? any way, you sound pretty much set up, so give em hell and have a good race, we are going to germany to race on sunday so lets see if i acutally start this time :)

[eb4flys]

where has everyone gone :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:

[gotspeed_2000]

Went racing today, but ran into tons of problems. In the first qualifier, I was running in second until a broken front steering knuckle allowed everyone to pass me. It must have taken me over 50 seconds to finish my last lap(average lap times are around 30 seconds for me), but I still managed to finish with 9 laps. Before I broke, the leader had already put a lap on me, but I'm pretty sure I had a pretty good lead on the 3rd place runner until my problems. In my second qualifier, I tried to change tires, but that was a big mistake. I should've stuck with my Komodo 2's, but I tried Knuckles 2.0 and had NO traction. I ended up 5 seconds out of the B main. In my main, I accidently pinched my fuel line with my body and my engine was running like crap. I managed to run in second for around 4 minutes just behind 1st, but pulled my car off the track due to the motor problems. Oh well, I guess it was a learning experience. Will route my fuel line differently next time. It was fun though.
Michael, how did you do this weekend?

[eb4flys]

hi gotspeed, sorry to hear about your problems, i had a great weekend racing in germany,2nd in the A;s and 1st in the team race, will be back racing at our home track sunday so looking forward to seeing the regular guys and having a good days racing.
michael

[J_Bone]

I haven't been able to get to the track lately.
Good to hear some racing news!!

Well I guess it gives me time to put in my new OS. it's only the RG but my track only has one strait and the rest is switch backs and jumps.

[eb4flys]

hi j-bone, sounds like you have the right engine for the job there, perfect for those nasty switchbacks plenty of low down grunt,with the right clutch set-up, one of our local guys swears by the RG over the V-spec, and he doesnt have to pay for his engines, so it must be good. :)

[J_Bone]

Wow, he runs the RG over the V spec?? I never would have thought. I got it becausre I only paid $60 for it NIB. Still sealed up.
All the local sponcered guys run Rossi's and other high end motors. Well one of our guys runs the Collari 3 port with good results at the "Silver State Nitro ". Of cource he doesn't run a OFNA but is fast. He flamed out at the start and was almost 2 laps down before he even got started.

-- SPORTSMAN 1/8 - A Main --
Pos Car Laps time name
1 14 46 30:34.72 Greg McGlothlin
2 2 45 30:27.17 Robbie Damico
3 3 45 30:38.78 Jason Sams
4 1 45 31:05.26 Levi Jackson
5 9 44 30:08.32 Jay Krug
6 13 44 30:13.82 Dylan Rodriguez
7 5 44 30:16.07 Peter Anselmo
8 11 43 30:11.56 Luke Jonas <-------
9 7 43 30:22.13 Danny Greco
10 8 42 29:43.38 Mike Panganiban
11 10 42 30:16.77 Gus Primm
12 6 40 28:07.83 Dave Wentz
13 12 23 17:06.62 Bryan Goyette
14 4 17 11:32.20 Josh Ford
15 15 17 30:19.06 Blade Luna

[suckfish]

hey guys, i have a quick question, will this engine drop in a hyper 7 PCR rtr.. meaning will i be able to use the flywheel and clutch?

[J_Bone]

hey guys, i have a quick question, will this engine drop in a hyper 7 PCR rtr.. meaning will i be able to use the flywheel and clutch?
This one?? (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPF0&P=0)

IF so, the flywheel and clutch should work fine. But as for the engine mount, I'm not sure if you will need a different one.


here from the OFNA forum:
The OS Max engines are exactly the same dementions as any other standard buggy engine. The crankshaft size and diameter are standardized and the motor mount hole spacing is standarized as well.

You just might have to re shim the clutch and flywheel?

[eb4flys]

[QUOTE=J_Bone]Wow, he runs the RG over the V spec?? I never would have thought. I got it becausre I only paid $60 for it NIB. Still sealed up.
All the local sponcered guys run Rossi's and other high end motors. Well one of our guys runs the Collari 3 port with good results at the "Silver State Nitro ". Of cource he doesn't run a OFNA but is fast. He flamed out at the start and was almost 2 laps down before he even got started.

$60 now thats a good price on that engine, sad as it is, the guy who sponsors our engine (cipolla) is no longer the UK distruibutor, he has just taken over the import right to bergonzoni in its place, so im left with a tough choice, do i buy my own :mad: or wait and see wht this new buggy is like, so i have been told the engine with the bergonzoni is actually a novorossi 421b thats been restamped and fettled, and as i run a P5 in my spare buggy this could look good for the team in general, regarding your RG if you check the total spec there is not a lot of difference between that and the novarossi or even the cipolla which i used to run :( and that has the highest bhp figures of any engine in its class. i might try and get a couple when i come over for that price you can almost use them like disposables, when you consider we pay aprox $400 for a top spec engine in the uk

[eb4flys]

just had a look and the price in the UK for your engine would be at the current excange rate $230. so now you feel like you really got a deal :rolleyes:

[suckfish]

thanks guys

[J_Bone]

$60 now thats a good price on that engine, sad as it is, the guy who sponsors our engine (cipolla) is no longer the UK distruibutor, he has just taken over the import right to bergonzoni in its place, so im left with a tough choice, do i buy my own :mad: or wait and see wht this new buggy is like, so i have been told the engine with the bergonzoni is actually a novorossi 421b thats been restamped and fettled, and as i run a P5 in my spare buggy this could look good for the team in general, regarding your RG if you check the total spec there is not a lot of difference between that and the novarossi or even the cipolla which i used to run :( and that has the highest bhp figures of any engine in its class. i might try and get a couple when i come over for that price you can almost use them like disposables, when you consider we pay aprox $400 for a top spec engine in the uk

OMG, would some of the Nova Rossi and Rossi engines be cheaper for you?

[J_Bone]

thanks guys

No problem. :cool:

[eb4flys]

OMG, would some of the Nova Rossi and Rossi engines be cheaper for you?

to give you another idea, i just as i said got a P5 for my spare buggy and in dollars it comes in at $420, this is why i spend lots when im in the US because of the great exchange rate

[J_Bone]

It must be the UK import taxes. They are imported to here to, with less travel time?? lol
I did sale a HPI RS4 to a kid in the UK and he had to pay just as much in taxes as the car was sold for. He did get a discount since it was used. No wonder he didn't care how much, it was still cheaper than buying it there. :eek:

Why don't you run your sponcered engines?

[eb4flys]

i do run my sponsors engines, the Cipolla, but i have a spare buggy i just mess around with at the track sometimes, so i got myself a P5 to put in it, and matched up with a spm sliding clutch i have to say i am very impressed with it.

[J_Bone]

Well today was the official removal of my Hyper .21 8 port. It didn't want to run at all. I found the MSN had moved, so I adjusted it and found it moved again after one tank. After that it didn't want to run again. It would start and idle fine till I gave it half to full throttle. When I did that it would die. It was like that the whole day. I think the hyper carb has issues. I had fuel spitting out the pipe but it was running hot. Breaking in the OS this week!! :D

[Racin Rev]

bone, common problem. there used to be a recomended fix of using an os carb as a replacement. a rocket block with an adjustable carb. this didn't even work for me i went with the os engine and all was happy.

[J_Bone]

Everyone I have come across that has used a OS .21 RG has nothing but good things to say about it. Tired of the Hyper issues. I have never had so many problems, even with my 2.5 engine that I bought brand new in Oct. 2002 and still runs today with 6 gallons through it. Well I just sold it too..

[flnsx]

Looking to by a non cut pre-painted Hyper 7 body for my electric conversion.

PM me!

[J_Bone]

Maybe check tower hobbies or Nitrohouse??

[gotspeed_2000]

Looking to by a non cut pre-painted Hyper 7 body for my electric conversion.

PM me!


You can also check out Jconcepts at www.jconcepts.net for a new body and they also have painting services available too. Also, you can check out other painters here at this website. Some of them do work for fees. Also, there's a guy at a shop called crispy critters(www.crispycrittershobbyshop.com) that does some real nice work. Good luck.

[gotspeed_2000]

Just picked up a brand new Futaba 3PK along with a Spektrum DSM system today from the LHS. Was using the 3PM, but wanted the DSM system. Can't wait to program the 3PK and the spektrum.

[supralative]

J Bone, Racin Rev

The high speed needle adjustment moving alot issue. How old were the motors. I got a used Hyper7 and the same things was happening on it. Are the new motors doing it also? I am replacing it, but was gonna go with the Hyper 8Port again...but hearing this from you guys...not sure if I should even if its a good deal.

Would buying a new high speed needle fix it with the new o-ring that comes with it?

[flnsx]

I just bought a new hyper 7 rtr and gutted it.

I am going to sell the motor and the clutch tank et. It's going to be a Brushless setup.

[J_Bone]

I'm not happy with my hyper!! It has been a PITA since day one! I got a OS RG. It's going to work great for my track. I've seen a few guys running it and it's easy to tune and have no problems.

My MSN keeps moving on the hyper. It moved so much my buggy wouldn't even run. So I will keep it for a spare, but I think I'm going to sale it off.
You can try to repace the o-rings. That would be worth a try.

[supralative]

I'm not happy with my hyper!! It has been a PITA since day one! I got a OS RG. It's going to work great for my track. I've seen a few guys running it and it's easy to tune and have no problems.

My MSN keeps moving on the hyper. It moved so much my buggy wouldn't even run. So I will keep it for a spare, but I think I'm going to sale it off.
You can try to repace the o-rings. That would be worth a try.

I feel you on that needle moving for sure. Seems like common occurance with the Hyper engine. I had to use RVT silicone to get it to hold. Local buddies here told me to get an RB engine.

[J_Bone]

Rb are good engines!! Rossi's, Novarossi's....they are all good, but will cost you. But for the price, the OS RG was to hard to pass up.

[Racin Rev]

My 8 port was brand new (last spring) and I spent hours trying to get it to work. I don't think that it was just about the needles moving either. It would start and idle just fine, it would even work through the midrange too but as i slowly squeezed the throttle (and i mean slowly) it would reach a point and just shut off. I could go too rich or too lean (rather quickly) I could adjust the high end or low end or idle it didn't make any difference. Funny though, i tried the os carb on it and it didn't seem to help, so i must conclude that it wasn't just the carb that had problems, it must have been sucking air somewhere through the bearing or elsewhere. I even went through the engine with gasket sealant no better.

coinsidently, when rc car did a shoot out they very diplomatically said the the engine was garbage on the jammin which i would guess was an 8 port.

I knew people who had old hyper engines (three port?) in their mbx's and old hyper 7's and they ran and ran, were only lacking in power.

[gotspeed_2000]

The carbs on the Hyper series of motors aren't the most stable. I've heard that changing the O-Rings helped alot. I guess that's why it's not an expensive motor due to how they put it together. I have the Hyper Race 8 Port and it has the same problems. I changed the carb, but have not had a chance to run it since. Some engines are fine, but there are alot of these engines with similar problems. The OS 21RG is a good motor for the price and for small tracks is fine. I tried the collari engines, and they have tons of power and they aren't as expensive as some of the other high output engines.

[J_Bone]

I forgot to mention collari engines. They are good too!! If I move to a higher end motor, that would be my first. I'm on a budget...

[supralative]

I think I am gonna drop in another Hyper 8Port for ease of installation and lining things up. Hopefully the needle stays put.

When I do go to a different engine, do I need different spacers or engine mounts to get it to work?

[J_Bone]

I think I am gonna drop in another Hyper 8Port for ease of installation and lining things up. Hopefully the needle stays put.

When I do go to a different engine, do I need different spacers or engine mounts to get it to work?

My OS was a strait drop in. All I had to adjust was the throttle link from the servo!! That's it. I have the PCR..

[gotspeed_2000]

I think I am gonna drop in another Hyper 8Port for ease of installation and lining things up. Hopefully the needle stays put.

When I do go to a different engine, do I need different spacers or engine mounts to get it to work?

Most engines use the same mounting pattern, so it should be a drop in unless you go with a pull start. Then you have to worry about the pull start clearing the chassis and the mounts. As long as you stay with a non pull start, you should be fine. One good thing about the Hyper pull start is that it doesn't hang low like some of the other brands. Good luck.

[ronin8451]

I have run the Hyper 8 ports a lot and have done quite a few mods to them too and they run great. They are a real good copy of a RB C-5 internally ( Race version with gold head ) and thus run best on a Nova/RB 086 pipe . If you try to run them on the crappy Ofna RTR pipes or monster pirate pipes, then they will not tune and have no mid to top power ( most just cough and die after half throttle on the pirate pipe). I actually think they have awesome off-road power running a Picco 69 pipe with a long header. I did my "max tune" port job a couple of years ago to a 8 port race version for a guy to run in his Picco 1/8 scale on-road car and it was faster than his Queller TQ Mod Novarossi 11 port ! Poor Will just couldn't run as fast as the pros though at the Texas Biggie !

Rick

[supralative]

Thanks alot for the info giuys...big help.

Ronin...what pipe manifold combo would you recommend then? I need to tune two Hyper 7's here shortly and need a different pipe set up according to you.

DOH... the Nova RB pipe set up if i would have paid attention hehehe

ok where is a good place to purchase this set up online

[eb4flys]

hey guys not been around for a few weeks, hows things, gotspeed, hows your racing season going ?

[gotspeed_2000]

Sorry, it's been a busy couple of weeks. So far this season, my racing is not going as well as I wished. A pinched fuel line in one race final put me out, then the next race final I blown clutch bell put me out as well. It's been rough, but I'm ready for next weekend's race. I also picked up a new toy. Ordered it tonight in fact. I picked up a lightning stadium pro to race in outlaw monster truck. I'll be racing two classes once I have things worked out. It's been pretty funny at the track cause I have these weird problems only on race day, but not on practice days. I also learned the hard way to pack "all" my tires. They changed the track surface to a soft loamy type and had the wrong tires for the surface. I left my knuckles at home that day. It was pretty funny and some of the other racers offered to loan me theirs, but I told them it was okay. How's your racing going? Let me know. See you later.

[eb4flys]

racing is going ok, same as you had a strange race this sunday, i squashed a new novarossi pipe almost flat, but i dont know how, then in the final, one of my clutch bearings had a fit and died, i was half a lap in front, so when i had a fuel stop my pit man had to throw my buggy to keep the wheels moving and i had to not use the breaks to avoid stalling, some how and i dont know how !! i managed to finish first but only 2 seconds in front of my buddy in the same final, but it was a great day, and the track was perfect. need lots of pratice as in september i will be racing in a big international event 125 guys racing, held at my local track (home advantage) 6 or 7 guys from the USA will be making the long round trip and from what i understand they are serious top names, also yannick will be there, i think the only way i may end up getting placed is if i glue there tires to the track. but looking forward to it,
regarding the stadium truck, i had a play with one of thoes last week, man your going to love it, that think goes like a rocket and handles like a buggy in the air, great bit of kit , keep us informed on how it goes
michael

[Phil7847]

Just recently bought a used Hyper 7 PBS and I am very impressed. My 10 year old son raced it for the first time on Sunday and got into the main.

In the last heat I noticed a bent front shock shaft. With some help I rebuilt it and someone gave me some 30 weight shock oil. I probably should have rebuilt both shocks, but did not have time. Now I plan to rebuild all the shocks, but I don't know what weight oil to use. The buggy came with 35 & 50...shall I go with that?

The track we run is pretty bumpy with a large jump.

I appreciate anyone providing some guidance here.

[supralative]

Finally got mine running!!! What a blast. Gonna play with it for now and get use to the new power of nitro.

[gotspeed_2000]

Just recently bought a used Hyper 7 PBS and I am very impressed. My 10 year old son raced it for the first time on Sunday and got into the main.

In the last heat I noticed a bent front shock shaft. With some help I rebuilt it and someone gave me some 30 weight shock oil. I probably should have rebuilt both shocks, but did not have time. Now I plan to rebuild all the shocks, but I don't know what weight oil to use. The buggy came with 35 & 50...shall I go with that?

The track we run is pretty bumpy with a large jump.

I appreciate anyone providing some guidance here.

Right now I'm running 40wt in the front and 30wt in the rear. I'm using black springs upfront, while using kyosho kanai blues in the rear. It's possible to use 50wt, but that would be more for smoother tracks with more small jumps, so going by what you said, you should maybe go with something around 30-40wt. Once done, you'll have to test it to see if that's how you want your buggy to handle. Oil changes does affect the handling of the buggy through the rough stuff as well as how the buggy jumps. Good luck.

[gotspeed_2000]

Hey Eb4flys, have you tried the newer JP pipes from ofna? I'm runing the JP2 pipe which is for enhanced mid to high end and like it alot. It's tough, plus it gives good power. They have a JP1 pipe, but it's extra long and is to enhance low to mid end performance. As for the lightning, it's been kicking everything's butt at the track I race at. It's super smooth and can put crazy power down if you want it to. I can't wait to get it from the guy in brown on Wednesday. Spoke to the place that I ordered it from and they said it went out today. Thinking of throwing in either the Collari Werks LC30MT engine or a Collari LB21B7 engine. I also have that stubborn Sirio Kanai 1 that I still haven't gotten broke in yet because it's too tight. So, I'm not sure what engine I'm gonna use. see you later.

[eb4flys]

hi gotspeed, the jp pipes your talking about are they EFRA stamped, and do you have a link for them, i think im going to need somethng a bit stronger, we dont see much jp stuff in the Uk need a pipe with bottom to mid,
re: your kanai, that really is a top engine, i think your going to be supprised when you get round to using it, we have just had an engine change from the sponsor gone is my fav cipolla we now run the tried and tested P5 which has been around a while but still a force to be reckoned with, also on to the SPM sliding clutch now, took me a while to get used to it, but have to say its growing on me at last, good luck in the next race, talk to you soon
michael

[gotspeed_2000]

hi gotspeed, the jp pipes your talking about are they EFRA stamped, and do you have a link for them, i think im going to need somethng a bit stronger, we dont see much jp stuff in the Uk need a pipe with bottom to mid,
re: your kanai, that really is a top engine, i think your going to be supprised when you get round to using it, we have just had an engine change from the sponsor gone is my fav cipolla we now run the tried and tested P5 which has been around a while but still a force to be reckoned with, also on to the SPM sliding clutch now, took me a while to get used to it, but have to say its growing on me at last, good luck in the next race, talk to you soon
michael

The ofna JP pipes do not carry a effra #, so would that make them illegal for use outside the usa? For more info, you can goto www.ofna.com and look for their exhaust systems there. The wall of the JP series of pipes is much thicker and also have a crush resistant stinger. They were the ones who came out with it first. I wish I had a chance to break the sirio kanai engine in, but it's just so tight even with heating that it doesn't want to stay started. Hopefully I'll be able to have use of that engine soon, but for now I'm sticking with the Werks collari line of engines. I now have two LB21B7's and a LC30Mt. Can't decide on which to use for the stadium pro, but I know I'll figure it out in the end. good luck to you too in your races upcoming.

[Phil7847]

Thanks for the reply. I'll try 35 and see how it handles. I also hear that drilling the holes to 1.3 and running heavier oil is an alternative, but I am not sure I am ready for that!

[gotspeed_2000]

Thanks for the reply. I'll try 35 and see how it handles. I also hear that drilling the holes to 1.3 and running heavier oil is an alternative, but I am not sure I am ready for that!

If you are thinking of drilling the pistons to a larger size, then using thicker oil it would amount to somethine similar to running the stock pistons with thicker oil. It's just a way to fine tune it into smaller increments. If you are unsure or do not have extra pistons, I would play with the oil alone for now until someone at the track you race at gives you more insights as to what may work in your conditions. good luck and have fun.

[J_Bone]

I drilled mine out to 1.4. I use Losi 35 in front and Losi 22.5 in the rear. I'm using the OFNA Light Blue springs. It seems to work well for my track. And yes we have jumps, a huge double and rythm sections.


http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/images/Hobbyaction_double_front.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/images/Hobbyaction_double.jpg

[eb4flys]

[QUOTE=J_Bone]I drilled mine out to 1.4. I use Losi 35 in front and Losi 22.5 in the rear. I'm using the OFNA Light Blue springs. It seems to work well for my track. And yes we have jumps, a huge double and rythm sections.


my track is very similar to j-bones and i use ofna whites , drilled to 1.4 and 40 F and 25 R so there you have it a few million miles away and a very close set-up, the ouside temp will make a slight difference to your oils even though they are silicon, on a cold morning i start with a thinner oil and then as the day goes on revert back to my normal set-up.

Gootspeed, we are not permitted to use any pipe without EFRA markings, in any national,or international race, that kani sounds like it needs a lump hammer to get it started :cool: did you get the stadium truck with the .26 RTR version as i know they do 2 different ones in the UK

[gotspeed_2000]

The model I'm getting the pro rtr kit. Both models come as rtr's but the pro version gets different parts. It comes with all the goodies such as aluminum suspension arms, front and center universals, hardened gears, etc. It's coming in on Wednesday according to UPS. I've been checking the site and it's already here in Hawaii. Can't wait, though I have to strip it down and take out the motor, exhaust, servo's, and radio. I'm gonna use the Spektrum DSM system with it along with my Hitec servo's I'm raiding from my Mutant Maxx. I'm gonna put the stock radio system into the Mutant maxx and then it's off to ebay to be sold. A friend of mines already wants the stock engine, exhaust, shaft start, and clutch from the stadium pro setup, so that's already sold too. Can't wait to run this truggy, but also to race my buggy this weekend. Hopefully I can sort out my buggy so that I can focus on setting up the truggy for the next race.
The JP pipes do not carry EFRA #'s, so I guess it would be considered illegal for your use. That's too bad cause they are great pipes and provide good power. See you around michael.

[gotspeed_2000]

Those are nice action shots with some good air time. Our track is a bit on the smaller side, with only a couple of jumps where we can catch some nice air. Maybe you should get a pilot's license instead:) Anyways, nice pix.

[eb4flys]

couple of pics from our track, you can get a general idea what the tracks like. the first thunder tiger international challenge will be held there in sept, a few big names from the USA will be there, i think im going to need a miracle to get placed in this one.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/119.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/owens035.jpg

and a last pic trying to jump over the football center at the local park

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/owens027.jpg

[J_Bone]

That track looks AWESOME!!! Better than the one I race on, escept for the tunnel. Another track out here has one and I hate it.

[SN VipeR]

Awesome track!

Here's my latest Hyper modification. I was tired of changing out the hinge pin holder plate every few litres because of wear so I made this:

http://home.tiscalinet.ch/snviper/hypermod1.jpg

It's made from 4mm carbon fiber and I put some Mugen plastic inserts in to keep the pins from wearing out the carbon. When they're worn I can simply replace them.
I'll check it out for crashworthyness this weekend. :)

[eb4flys]

That track looks AWESOME!!! Better than the one I race on, escept for the tunnel. Another track out here has one and I hate it.

thanks for you vote j-bone, the tunnel is not so bad as we have see through mesh on top, i have been to so many tracks where you cant see your buggy through the top of it, very lucky here as the track is only 5 mins from my house and as i am a key holder i can go for a pratice whenever i like, lap times are aprox 45 sec, in the pic you cant see the 2 banked areas (thats the ones i went over the top of two weeks ago and landed in the pit area shearing off the top of my new engine) i think you guys should get on a plane and come and race in the international event in sept... :D

[eb4flys]

Awesome track!

It's made from 4mm carbon fiber and I put some Mugen plastic inserts in to keep the pins from wearing out the carbon. When they're worn I can simply replace them.
I'll check it out for crashworthyness this weekend. :)

let us know how it works viper, which one did you have on there to start with, i have been running a 5mm 7075 on there for a long time with no problems, hey dont forget your copyright if it stands up to a bashing, we might all want one. :p

[SN VipeR]

I went driving today and the newly made carbon part broke at the first bad landing from the jump. It broke where it holds the pin at the right side, and as you may or may not able to see, it's pretty thin there compared to the left side.

I'm going to make one that's thicker around the hinge pins now and if that doesn't work out as well I'm getting a 7075 one too. Which one exactly do you use eb4flys? Can you clamp down the pins with set screws so they don't rub against the aluminium?
I just had the stock 3mm alum plate before, and now again...

[rcguruguru]

does anyone know anything about the hyper 7 pro SE? i hear it has 3 spider diffs and some other cool stuff

[eb4flys]

Which one exactly do you use eb4flys? Can you clamp down the pins with set screws so they don't rub against the aluminium?
I just had the stock 3mm alum plate before, and now again...

hi viper, i use the same one on the front that you find on the back of the pro version, you will need to get longer pins and you will have to trim the front bumper, or fit a dominator one, and on the UK pro the back one has holes in for set screws already, so just buy anothr put it on the front and there you go.

[eb4flys]

does anyone know anything about the hyper 7 pro SE? i hear it has 3 spider diffs and some other cool stuff

Hi guru, do you have a link to the pro SE, i think its the same edition as one of my UK hypers, 3 spiders, longer milled and lightend chassis, purple wing mounts and lightend wheel hexs and wheel nuts, if you do have a link post it up lets have a look.

[rcguruguru]

Hi guru, do you have a link to the pro SE, i think its the same edition as one of my UK hypers, 3 spiders, longer milled and lightend chassis, purple wing mounts and lightend wheel hexs and wheel nuts, if you do have a link post it up lets have a look.

no i don't have a link. i've seen one so if you post a picture of the UK edition, I can tell you if they're the same model.

[eb4flys]

rcguruguru, here is a pic of the pro uk spec, Viper this was before the front hinge pin holder was changed, to the back one.



http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/Picture007.jpg

[J_Bone]

rcguruguru, here is a pic of the pro uk spec, Viper this was before the front hinge pin holder was changed, to the back one.

Do you race with the Bad Lands? I finally bent my front shock tower, now I'll be looking for some stronger ones.

[eb4flys]

Hi j-bone, i only use the badlands when the track is a bit on the wet side, and also only in a club meeting, they are not a sanctioned tyre here for nationals, my usual tyre choice for my home track when dry (pic above) is crime fighters or hobao angle spikes i cut off the inner and outer row of spikes. as for the shock shafts, they are not the strongest and at least you bent yours, i used to snap therm off at the thread where they go in to the ball joint. i now use the thunder tiger EB4-S2 carbide upgrade ones they fit straight on and i have never had a problem since..and the good news, they are the same price as the standard hobao ones. might be worth a try unless you are moving up to 3.5mm. how is your racing going so far this season

[Turbo B]

is this the same buggy as the Ofna Ultra LX Comp RTR w/.26 PS ?? this will b my frist buggy and i want it to be sumthing that is fast and with a two speed maybe.. i jus bush

[J_Bone]

No, we are talking about Hyper 7's. Completely different form the Ultra's.

eb4fly,
I will have to look in to the TT EB4-s2 shock towers. For the price it sounds like it will be worth it.
I use Knuckles when the track dries out and all other times I use Panther Komoto 2's. They have just a bit more bit than the crime fighters. I use the Bad lands when I'm out bashing or playing around the house.
I haven't raced in 2 month's and I'm itching bad. We have a big state race this Saturday and it should be fun. I got my buggy tuned pretty well and the new OS Rg actually works good on the tight track. It should be tough since most of the guys here made A mains at "THe Dirt" and the "Silver state challenge" and have sponcers. 2 of them just got picked up by X ray and seem to be doing really welll with only 2 days of testing. Oh well, it's still fun!!

[2mcgrath]

anyone know where to find front body mount for hyper 7 pro?tower says they are discontinued

[eb4flys]

j-bone you got it in one "oh well its all fun" nice to know someone has the same attiude as me, even in a national. have a good race, i have heard good reports on the panthers.

[gotspeed_2000]

How was your weekend? Mines went 50/50. My hyper buggy was not tuned very well in the first qualifier, then in the second my air filter went again! Killed the engine in the 3rd minute. I don't know how long I ran without the filter, but the damage is done and I now have a collari 21 as a paper weight. I was so pissed with my buggy that I didn't even want to run the main with my back up collari either. I've decided I'm gonna run the S-Tube and secure it to the chassis. I didn't want to run this cause the tube is a bit on the softer side, but this losing the filter thing is getting old.
As for my new lightning stadium pro, with NO track time for testing or getting used to it, I ran the first qualifier and won. I put in a pretty good time, so in the second qualifier I took it easy. I just tried to find a faster line around the track when possible. I qualified 5th in the A, and finished 5th even after a flame out durring refueling. I was making up time, but it was hard since most of the other trucks in the A were also Lightnings. I was lucky cause alot of the fast guys who run lightings are my freinds, and they gave me setups for the truck so I didn't have to search for one. All in all, the weekend of racing was pretty good. I got some ideas on my Hyper on tuning and shocks setups, so we'll see how testing goes this weekend.

[SN VipeR]

eb4fly,
I will have to look in to the TT EB4-s2 shock towers.

As I understand it you're misunderstanding each other. ;) eb4flys was talking about shock shafts if I read correctly. Can't imagine the EB4 shock towers to fit the Hyper.

I'll get some EB4 shock shafts too if I can get a hold of them. My Hyper and Kyosho shock shafts bend all the time.

[eb4flys]

As I understand it you're misunderstanding each other. ;) eb4flys was talking about shock shafts if I read correctly. Can't imagine the EB4 shock towers to fit the Hyper.

I'll get some EB4 shock shafts too if I can get a hold of them. My Hyper and Kyosho shock shafts bend all the time.


sorry j-bone, i misread the post.
thanks viper, i was talking about the shock shafts and just to recap they are the upgrade carbide ones from the EB4 S2, standard ones dont fit as they have no thread on the ends just a crap circlip.

If you want shock towers why not go for the pro spec, when i first started racing my hyper i had 2 spare towers....i still have them and if you ever see my driving you will know they must be strong :) :)

[eb4flys]

I've decided I'm gonna run the S-Tube and secure it to the chassis. I didn't want to run this cause the tube is a bit on the softer side,

ok pro tip: i use the S-tube also, i put a better filter on the end and then ..... .....put a 1/10 shock spring inside the tube, this will (a) stop it collapsing and (b) it traps tiny bits of dust and dirt if they ever get as far as the tube, also worth smearing some light grease round the top and bottom of the inner filter to make a nice dirt tight fit.
Sounds like you did well to get to the A final,its so frustrating when things go wrong, but i guess as they say "thats racing" i never raced this week-end but will be racing sunday, and on monday (public holiday) i will be at the track helping out the younger noobies which is always fun.
you can just see the spring inside the S-tube




http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/air001.jpg

[gotspeed_2000]

I will try the shock spring trick you shown. Yeah, in buggy so far this year it's been nothing but headaches. The engine I was running is toast, the rear bearing has slop and the piston is now missing the top oil groove. Atleast I still have another to run in the next race, but now no more back up. I did install a better end filter on the s-tube already. I have one with the RB filter, and another with a kyosho filter end already all glued up. Will grease the spring like you recommend to help as well as the filter ends too. Thanks again for the tips and I hope your racing goes well too.

[J_Bone]

AH, I've have yet to bend the shock shaft. Yet, being the key word...lol

The race got cancelled....aaaaarrrggggg... A city inspector came by and noticed the new driver stand. Well the owner didn't file for a permit..SO it's a no go. Oh man...This was my only weekend free for a few months and the new time schedule is not suitable for either...aarrrgg..
I'm so frustrated.
I finally got this POS, oh I mean PCR dialed in and it handles how I like it. It took a bit of work too.
I guess I will just have to race my ST instead. :eek: Not the same!

[eb4flys]

The race got cancelled....aaaaarrrggggg...

NOOOOooooo, thats the last thing you want to hear when you have spent the last few months setting up and getting ready, i guess the only plus side is you wont have to clean your buggy ths week.. well lets hope you get some racing in soon, keep us updated with your progress

[nmting]

Guys, just after some advise on what may be the better purchase of the 2 links below. I am looking to get into racing so want something strong and reliable but not something that is going to require heaps of hop ups to get running well.
So is the kit (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=ohbh7sd_detail::ohb,d:ohbh7sd.txt,p:,s:,i:ohbh7 sd.jpg,t:ohbh7sd.gif&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=prdetail&us=1114920655-66&kn=cat.brand-ohb-land-203-7-255&**) a better purchase than the RTR Pro (http://www.ozshops.com/cgi-bin/RT_Resp.cgi?1.IL&mt=na&re=h&nt=dynamic&ta=rmshyperpcrpro_detail::rms,d:rmshyperpcrpro.txt ,p:,s:,i:rmshyperpcrpro.jpg,t:rmshyperpcrpro.gif&ip={mt=da&it=n&ap=radio&co=prdetail&us=1114920655-66&kn=cat.brand-595&**) for someone just starting out?
What are the pros and cons of each car? And is there anything I should be looking out for before buying?? Thanks

[eb4flys]

hi mnting, ok well there is lots of info there, i started writing all the pros and cons but i would be here all day, PCR good rtr but alot of money and that radio is a bit poor, also do you want the hyper engine ? nothing wrong with it, but you can get better(hyper do have a needle problem on the carb) pro kit, its good to build what you intend to race, you get to understand the buggy better, you have your own radio and engine choice, only downside to the pro has no laydown servos, but thats a personal choice and inexpensive to change, me i love em, some people dont. also PBS on both buggys, do you want that or C hub???. i cant stay long as its 6am and i have to race soon, but something to think about, we should all look after our LHS, but in saying that dinball have an ebay shop service is fantastic and very cheap,(more money for engine and servos etc) check out there 2 pro spec cars, one with torsen diff, and one without and see what you think, if you need more info just ask, also on here are gotspeed, j-bone and viper they are all seasoned hyper users too, so lets see what they think, over to you guys
michael TEAM CRASH RACING (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)

[eb4flys]

bad day at the track, hi guys, well what can i say, in the A final going like crazy, 1st prehaps 2nd at the end of the race, i went to race control to check my final position and .....what did he say, "you never started the race" he messed up the personnal transponder settings and cleaned mine off the system, so i got no points for the final at all, and to say the least i am so ****** off its unreal :mad: :mad: , i could have stayed in bed this morning, and the points count towards the championship...ok i have had my say now i feel better, so tomorrow is a public holiday so we are going to open the track for pratice and ill just spend the whole day setting up. hope you all had a good week-end.

[gotspeed_2000]

bad day at the track, hi guys, well what can i say, in the A final going like crazy, 1st prehaps 2nd at the end of the race, i went to race control to check my final position and .....what did he say, "you never started the race" he messed up the personnal transponder settings and cleaned mine off the system, so i got no points for the final at all, and to say the least i am so ****** off its unreal :mad: :mad: , i could have stayed in bed this morning, and the points count towards the championship...ok i have had my say now i feel better, so tomorrow is a public holiday so we are going to open the track for pratice and ill just spend the whole day setting up. hope you all had a good week-end.

I would protest the final race standings michael. If it wasn't your fault, then they should not penalize you by not awarding the points you would've won. That's not right, especially when you consider that the race points is what is really at stake. I know this is a hobby, but you shouldn't be penalized if it's not your mistake. Glad though you got over it, but still you should look into it. good luck in your next race.

[eb4flys]

hi gotspeed,
well i have to practice what i preach, and thats to keep it fun, but the plus side is the championship is 10 from 15 so i can afford to loose a couple of rounds, but the thing was i could have really got a good start this season with todays result. so did you race this weekend if so how did you do

[gotspeed_2000]

Went to the track to pick up my sirio Kanai 1 from a friend who was trying to break it in. The piston/sleeve has too much pinch so I made a break in stand using my spare chassis, fuel tank, laydown servo tray and exhaust to help out. I ended up breaking in a friends motor instead of focusing on mines, but it's all cool. I got to run two tanks through the motor and now cause i have the stand, I can try later to put a few more tanks through it so I can try and use it in my lightning. Also, going to pull my ebmods collari out of the buggy for a pinch job by rayaracing. Hopefully that will go well. See you around eb4flys.

[nmting]

hi mnting, ok well there is lots of info there, i started writing all the pros and cons but i would be here all day, PCR good rtr but alot of money and that radio is a bit poor, also do you want the hyper engine ? nothing wrong with it, but you can get better(hyper do have a needle problem on the carb) pro kit, its good to build what you intend to race, you get to understand the buggy better, you have your own radio and engine choice, only downside to the pro has no laydown servos, but thats a personal choice and inexpensive to change, me i love em, some people dont. also PBS on both buggys, do you want that or C hub???. i cant stay long as its 6am and i have to race soon, but something to think about, we should all look after our LHS, but in saying that dinball have an ebay shop service is fantastic and very cheap,(more money for engine and servos etc) check out there 2 pro spec cars, one with torsen diff, and one without and see what you think, if you need more info just ask, also on here are gotspeed, j-bone and viper they are all seasoned hyper users too, so lets see what they think, over to you guys
michael TEAM CRASH RACING (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/)

Thanks for the info eb4flys, I've already got a decent radio and would be looking at replacing the hyper 7 engine in the short term if I went the RTR, so as I thought the kit is the better prospect.

[eb4flys]

Thanks for the info eb4flys, I've already got a decent radio and would be looking at replacing the hyper 7 engine in the short term if I went the RTR, so as I thought the kit is the better prospect.

in that case, if you like PBS sounds like the kit is the one for you, good strong buggy, and solid parts all round, let us know how you get on with it
michael

[SN VipeR]

Here's a little something for the eye:

A good friend of mine milled out a hyper chassis for me. It's about 45 grams lighter but still very rigid. The engine, middle diff and radio gear are lowered 1mm. I also put the 5-cell flat battery pack into the RC box and added the laydown servo tray I had sitting here for some time. All of this should give a nice low CG.

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/hyperchassis1.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/hyperchassis2.jpg

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/hyperchassis3.jpg

[eb4flys]

hi viper,
now that must have taken some doing, i also have a lightend and milled chassis but, not to that degree, let us know how it goes in the air, you should also find a difference on th turns with a lower C of G
michael

[Got Speed]

It's been a while since I've posted here. I've been trying to sort out some problems with my P5. I knew it was an air leak but I didn't know where it was untill I found a small hairline crack running down the side of the case. It must have been there since I bought it because it has had this air leak from day one. It has just gotten worse every time I run it. At first it would stall every 2 or 3 tanks. Now it stalls 4 or 5 times in just one tank. Obviously it tunes real erratic too. One minute it runs at 170 the next it is over 300. Now that I found the problem I think I'm going to send it in to Novarossi.

Should I email fusionmotorsports about this? If not who else would I contact?
Thanks

[KyoshoKev]

hey viper that looks nice man. i got the factory milled out chasis. which is milled out under the diffs, battery tray, fuel tank

it has a fair bit less milling than yours

what i found is that on that chasis there is heaps of flex in it

[eb4flys]

Should I email fusionmotorsports about this? If not who else would I contact?
Thanks

hi gotspeed, sorry to hear about the engine, not sure where you should send it, as in the UK we send them to novarossi in italy or ted longshaw uk distrubition. there service is usually second to none with novarossi, so let us know how you get on.

[Got Speed]

eb4flys- Well, I think I got it sorted out now. I went ahead and emailed fusionmotorsports who is supposed to be the new distributer for Novarossi in the US. They emailed me back within a couple hours and said just to send it in. Hopefully they will have the same kind of service as Novarossis and the UK dist.

[hirme]

Hi all, I'm new to this world of RC car...yesterday, my brother came in with his new Ofna Hyper 7 PBS. So now, I'm looking to buy one...I'd like to know if its a good choice or I can get something more powerful for less!

Thanks guys

[J_Bone]

The OFNA's are the best for the $$$$$. Sure there are better ones, but you will have to pay for it! :cool:

[eb4flys]

Hi all, I'm new to this world of RC car...yesterday, my brother came in with his new Ofna Hyper 7 PBS. So now, I'm looking to buy one...I'd like to know if its a good choice or I can get something more powerful for less!

Thanks guys

hirme, i go with j-bone on the $$ but imo, i also think the hyper is a perfect buggy for a first timer, as you can upgrade as you go along if you need to, as for something more powerful, there are hundreds of engines out there, but very few people who actually make engines, if that makes sence, the hyper engine that comes with the PBS will do you proud if looked after, rather than spend more $$ on a bigger name engine, start off buying a better clutch and better steering servo, and a good cell pack for your RX,and the most important thing a failsafe. one other great thing getting the PBS, when you break something (which we all do) you can take it off your brothers :p :p

[KyoshoKev]

since your brother already has one... he should be able to help you build a kit

if you can find, try getting the Pure Competition Kit. it's a kit ,unbuilt (no engine no elctronics) but has all the good stuff.. milled chasis, aluminum stuff, carbn fibre, extra springs, extra spare bits, comes with c-hub with an extra PBS parts aswell!!!

[T-EVO RACER]

whats a good price for an all stock hyper7pbs except a futaba 150 in/oz servo, it comes with the starter box and radio equipment, I offered him 100 to 150 buckls for it, is that a good price for it??? thanx for the help!!!

[2mcgrath]

thats a steal for a hyper 7

[eb4flys]

sounds good to me evo, go get it

[T-EVO RACER]

so is that pretty much the highest price a buggy in that shape can go??

[supralative]

Just a stock body with some graphics applied. I plan on buying another body and doing some type bright neon colored paint on it. The last two pics are the larger version ones. Thanks guys.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer4.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer5.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer6.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer1S.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer2S.jpg

[J_Bone]

Superlative,
That looks close to mine. I have Panther Komoto 2's with black dish wheels. The only difference is the springs. Looking good!!

[supralative]

Thanks J Bone
just broke in the engine
did a few pulls up and down the street but couldnt get it to reach over 150 in temps heehee
so i got a little more ways to learn on tuning now

[J_Bone]

I had problems with my Hyper 8 port. Actually it was the carb that gave me the problems. My MSN and LSN keep moving on me and would lean or richen it out. On man was I frustrated. I got a whole new engine....but I would recomend (if you plan on keeping it) to keep an eye out for a OS 20E carb for it. It will make it run so much better and more consistant.

[supralative]

Yea we talked about that last time earlier in this thread
my other Hyper7 with the same engine the needles stayed put
so far this one has stayed put though
its consistent but i just haven been able to get the temps high enough on it
i know what you mean on it
i plan on learning still with this one and then getting an RB

[supralative]

Here are the under the body shots. I finally got it tuned!!! The lowspeed needle was way rich and I didnt realize I had not leaned it out enough. Runs like a champ now and holds a good idle with a pretty decent punch on the bottom end for a Hyper .21.


http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer7.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer8.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Racer9.jpg

[Ball Racing]

With the subject of needles moving about,
I just put a TINY amount of blue loctite on the threads, and put them back in.
No problems, and yes they will move for tuning.....

[supralative]

How do you guys have your braking set up. My brake set up is alot of front with the rear dragging in behind a little bit less.
I am used to a 1/10 truck were there are no front brakes and the rear can be slide around with a tap of the brakes to square off corners hehe. I thought about throwing in more rear bias to achieve this effect.

[J_Bone]

Superlative,
I noticed your steering servo is standing up. my PCR came with it laying down. Did you get a different servo tray?? I would like to have my steering laid down, but my throttle standing up.

I too have a RC10 GT and I like rear brake bias. I set up mine so the rear will skid while the front will only slow me down. So if I have to brake slide it I can. But it's not my preferred method of cornering.

[supralative]

J-Bone
I had a PCR version with the laydown servo tray and didnt like it. I actually sold that whole buggy set up. This is my second Hyper7 which is just the PBS version. I like the stand up version for adjustability and its easy to do that situated like this. I have noticed a few of the other OFNA buggies using the laydown steering with the upright throttle.

[J_Bone]

I will have to keep an eye out for that tray or just buy an extra one and modify it.

I'll try to get some pictures of mine to post up. It's dirty but oh well...lol

[supralative]

I know the Jammin X1 uses it and I think the Ultra MBX model does also.

Is there such and upgrade as a captured hinge pin holder? I am asking because my RC10 T4 had this on it and got rid of the E clips that hold the hing pins from backing out.
Has anyone drilled a hole and used a set screw to hold the hing pin also?

[J_Bone]

I haven't seen any captured hinge pin holders on OFNA's but something like a X Ray might??
I though about doing it to mine since I did it to my GT after the T4 mod. It shouldn't be to hard to do. Just find the right hole size to drill and buy extra screw that the T4 uses. hhhhmmmm maybe i'll tr it with my extra gearbox set.

[supralative]

sounds good J-Bone!!!

What are you running for a steering servo. Right now I got two JR Z590M doing the job but need to upgrade the steering...probably a JR Z650M just to match.

Man I really like this buggy alot more than my previous one...guess it has more of my personal preferences on it.

[J_Bone]

I use a Hitec 5945 for steering and a Hitec 625 for throttle. The JR 650 is a good servo too! It would do just fine.
I'm happy with mine, but I'm considering changing the front to the C hub setup. Might have to wait a while for the funds.


Here's my OS at break in..
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/OS@breakin.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/Side.jpg


Here is a mod I did to the steering bar and installed turnbuckles for easier adjustments. First I removed the bolt and counter sunk the hole on the plate for the bolt. Then I dropped it in from top and installed a Nylon nut to hold it on instead of using lock tite on the stock nut. It's kind of a blurry picture....sorry my camera is a POS.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/Steering.jpg

[supralative]

I have been wanting to try C-Hub up front too!!!
PBS is super durable though.

[Ball Racing]

Jammin has captured pins for their buggy,
they may work on the hyper..

[J_Bone]

Jammin has captured pins for their buggy,
they may work on the hyper..

I couldn't find captured hinge pins..But I found the screw in hinge pins.
http://www.ofna.com/teamjammin/images/jp-40581-armpins-big.jpg


Where can I look for them?? I tried the OFNA web page but the PDF is having issues.
Thanks

[supralative]

Nice
those would work
I need an E clip here pretty soon for one of my front hinge pins
do you guys know the size of the hinge pin or a part number for the e clip off hand

also is there a front sway bar available for these Hyper7 PBS's
i checked the ofna site and didnt see anything

[J_Bone]

I don't know what the part number is for just an e clip. I have so many laying around form all the Gear box and hinge pin kits I have purchased in the last few months.

I would check with Nitro House (http://nitrohouse.com/index.htm) .
They share the same Building as OFNA in the US. The sell kits that are not even real kits but have been created by Nitro house because there is a need for them. Give them a call and they will help you with any thing OFNA!!

[Ball Racing]

Those are what I'm talking about.
I considered the nut bolt deal to be the "captured" hinge pin.

[supralative]

I just ordered a bunch of spring sets, front sway bar, an extra set of hinge pins with the clips.
Gonna try to win a set of LX/MBX threaded shocks if I can. I will probably swich out the rear dog bones and put some universals in along with the centers also soon or when they get bent.

[J_Bone]

Here's my new J-Concepts body.
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album03/jconcepts.sized.jpg
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album03/jconcepts_3.sized.jpg

[supralative]

Looks good J Bone
I just swithed to 55 wt up front and 30wt in rear
You can tell a huge difference in front just pushing the buggy down. Rear seems the same. Just need to get my springs in and play with preload and set the ride height. Need to get that e clip and I will be able to take it to the track finally.

[J_Bone]

Thanks..
I'm running Losi 35wt up front and Losi 22.5 in rear. I think I'm going to run Losi 45 up fornt and Losi 35 in the rear this summer.

[supralative]

The local track here is pretty dry and dusty and somewhat smooth in general. Only major bumps and stuff are what they throw in. In the Dallas area the tracks are indoor so the hole the moisture a bit better but are still hard packed. I might need to up the weight in the rear after a test run.

[supralative]

hehehe
meant to say they hold moisture better

I just killed my throttle servo which was a JR Z590M...dont know how either???
Ran it, took it all apart to clean, put it back...nothing...turned a couple of times then dead
had all the end points adjusted and it was fine...then kaput
time to get the JR Z650M for steering and switch the current steering JR Z590M for throttle.

[J_Bone]

ah bummer... My Hitec 645 that I had on my throttle died after about a gallon through. a JR 650 would be sweet for the steering and 590 on throttle.
I now run a Hitec 5945 for steering and a 625 for throttle. It seems to work good.

[supralative]

Alright got the Z650M in...will set it up tomorrow when there is daylight. Next question is....is there a good/quick/efficient way to pull the diffs out to change out diff fluid?
Any help hints pointers would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

[J_Bone]

For the front and rears, I remove the skid plate(front) and loosen the screws on the bottom. remove the 4 gearbox bolts and e-clip for hinge pin and pull the side cover off. it's easy once you do it.

[supralative]

Alright looked at the instructions...think I know where you are coming from. If I dont head down to Dallas to roadrace tonight, I will try to switch it out.
Plan on running 3K front, 5K middle, 1K rear. What are you and anyone else running.

[J_Bone]

Alright looked at the instructions...think I know where you are coming from. If I dont head down to Dallas to roadrace tonight, I will try to switch it out.
Plan on running 3K front, 5K middle, 1K rear. What are you and anyone else running.

5K, 7K, 1K

[supralative]

Thanks J Bone
just did the whole swap
it was a breeze like you said
first time and no problems at all heehe
just hate putting those e clips back on...LOL
you can really tell a difference with the fluid compared to grease....want to see how this things runs now!!!!!

only other problem
how often are you guys running the buggy and changing gas tanks
i just put a new one on this and it already leaks around the cap....its not a even a gallon old and it leaks already

any tricks

[J_Bone]

I've run 2 gallons through mine with no problems.

[supralative]

wierd
it was working fine when I would use my other buggy like once a day
well this one i used it to break the motor in, and then it sat for like a week...then this time out it was leaking

[hoopdog]

Well guys,,I dropped the coin and picked up a Pro kit. I went with a RB WS7 II with RB manifold and 086 pipe. Airtronics 94258 for steering and a 357 for throt/brake.

After a complete dissasembly to check things out and to load the diffs with lock lube, I was amazed at how well everything was loctited. A few things caught my eye though.

Do I need to Sglue the brake pads to the backing plates?

The plastic shock caps look to be a weak point, is there a replacement cap that will fit the bodies on a pro?

What springs will work on these shocks, ( they come with a medium spring, I was looking for a stiffer spring).

The buggy droops when I set it on the workbench, not enough preload?. I went with 45 WT shock oil in the fronts and 40 WT in the back ( its what I had at the time).

After a few tanks, the center diff looks to be leaking its fluid out, maybe filled it to much and blew the seals.

Sorry for the list, maybe someone has the answers.

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL829/3603211/7416559/96989879.jpg

The pic shows the Ofna header and pipe,it has since been replaced

http://pic17.picturetrail.com/VOL829/3603211/7416559/96989860.jpg

[J_Bone]

Well guys,,I dropped the coin and picked up a Pro kit. I went with a RB WS7 II with RB manifold and 086 pipe. Airtronics 94258 for steering and a 357 for throt/brake.

After a complete dissasembly to check things out and to load the diffs with lock lube, I was amazed at how well everything was loctited. A few things caught my eye though.

Do I need to Sglue the brake pads to the backing plates?

The plastic shock caps look to be a weak point, is there a replacement cap that will fit the bodies on a pro?

What springs will work on these shocks, ( they come with a medium spring, I was looking for a stiffer spring).

The buggy droops when I set it on the workbench, not enough preload?. I went with 45 WT shock oil in the fronts and 40 WT in the back ( its what I had at the time).

After a few tanks, the center diff looks to be leaking its fluid out, maybe filled it to much and blew the seals.

Sorry for the list, maybe someone has the answers.

Great motor and Pipe combo!! That thing should run real well.

I haven’t lock tite my brake pads.

Mine don’t have Plastic shock caps either, weird. Post a pic of them if you can. Well I guess they are plastic with a metal collar that holds them on. I have had no problems with mine. I’ve bent my shock towers too!

You can use multiple types of springs, but you might have to use more or less shock spacers. For stiff springs I use these.. OFNA White (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWV4&P=0)

For droop, add shock spring spacers till you get the ride height you are looking for. If you use the white springs, that should raise the ride height a bit too, but you might still have to add extra spacers.

The O rings on the Center spider diff is a tricky one. Mine leaked after I replaced the Diff oil the second time. I ended up buying a new diff kit and used the new o-ring on the spur gear side. Then I noticed on the other end the o-ring popped out. Well it hasn’t’ leaked so I left it. You can use some Oil resistant Silicone and let it set then use it as a gasket.
A easy way to fill the Spider diff is to remove only one bolt and fill it through the one bolt. That way it doesn’t leak out all the other holes.

Hope that helps.. :D

[J_Bone]

Here's mine....see the Blue springs, those are the 9.5 mediums.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/PCRside.jpg


My OS .21 RG with JP-1 pipe at Break in.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/OS@breakin.jpg

[Ball Racing]

Whats the part number for the laydown servo tray in carbon fiber??

[hoopdog]

Great motor and Pipe combo!! That thing should run real well.

I haven’t lock tite my brake pads.

Mine don’t have Plastic shock caps either, weird. Post a pic of them if you can. Well I guess they are plastic with a metal collar that holds them on. I have had no problems with mine. I’ve bent my shock towers too!

You can use multiple types of springs, but you might have to use more or less shock spacers. For stiff springs I use these.. OFNA White (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXCWV4&P=0)

For droop, add shock spring spacers till you get the ride height you are looking for. If you use the white springs, that should raise the ride height a bit too, but you might still have to add extra spacers.

The O rings on the Center spider diff is a tricky one. Mine leaked after I replaced the Diff oil the second time. I ended up buying a new diff kit and used the new o-ring on the spur gear side. Then I noticed on the other end the o-ring popped out. Well it hasn’t’ leaked so I left it. You can use some Oil resistant Silicone and let it set then use it as a gasket.
A easy way to fill the Spider diff is to remove only one bolt and fill it through the one bolt. That way it doesn’t leak out all the other holes.

Hope that helps.. :D

thanks J_Bone!

Yep, the shock caps are the ones with the plastic insert, metal collar setup. If they hold up, then I wont worry about them. The springs in my pics are both mediums, ( or so they say) the blue ones go with the Pillowball setup, and the purple ones are supposed to go with the C-hub suspension. I dont think there is a difference between the two tho' ( other than color)

Thanks for the springs and spacers advice.

I did the "one bolt fill" on the center diff,,till it oozed out the opposing hole, then I stopped right there. I think it might be filling to much doing it that way, but I dont know. the whole fluid expansion thing might be going on doing it that way (to much). Those 22mm X .9mm orings are a pain in the butt to keep seated on the diff case, and hard to find after they launch like a flea across the shop! LOL. I was thinking about the silicone sealant trick during the initial filling, Im guess you could seal the outside of the diff around the orange orings, then around where the spur gets close to the diff body, ( dont know if nitro will affect that, probably not since the motor is sealed with Perm ultra copper)

The brake pad thing, Some people have advised me to superglue the brake pads to the floater plates, I have noticed that the holes are starting to elogate on the pads.


Ball Racing, your part number is #19790 ( laydown servo conversion kit)

[Ball Racing]

Is that the aluminum lay down
or carbon fiber(graphite) one??
Thanks

[hoopdog]

Is that the aluminum lay down
or carbon fiber(graphite) one??
Thanks

Thats the PCR carbon fiber one. you also get the linkages and servo blocks,,everything is there.

[Ball Racing]

Thank You.

[J_Bone]

Who knows of a strong shock tower?
I bent my stock real good. I didn't realize till I was messing with it and noticed one side felt stiffer. So I took apart the front end and found the shock tower not just bent on the top, but twisted. The left side was bent where the shock mounted and then the other side was twisted so it binded the upper a-arm. The hinge pins are still strait and you can see the twist.

[eb4flys]

Hi Guys....Im back been to the euro warm ups, and have to say did not do so well, but hey thats racing, wow looks like this forum is really moving at the moment, Hi J-bone, hows things? the shock tower if it helps i broke mine the other day i had the cnc billet one on there nice and strong, but after a huge crash it let go at last, never had a spare so i put 2 of the standard ones together, that should last a while, bit of a tight fit but it will go, same with the rear you have to push the wing mount forward but again it will fit. hows everyones racing going so far this season ?

[J_Bone]

Hey eb4flys,
It's going ok I guess. I haven't raced in a few weeks and I'm itching again..lol
I got a ST to race with too, so I can get more track time!!
My last race kind of bummed me out. I got ripped by the lap counter. It missed my first lap completely and said I was a lap down from First place. But I was on the same lap and should have qualified for the "A" main. But "oh well" I said and prepared or the second heat. Well things got even worse. I got the one lap more, but was 30 seconds slower which qualified me for the 3rd spot in the "B" main. Then optimistic of how I will do, I thought "no biggie, I'll just bump up to the A". Well that didn’t work so good as some guy rammed me from behind on the start and spun me into the wall and I flipped up side down. The Corner marshal kind of just stared at it for a few seconds. So I yelled "HEY, FLIP ME OVER". That finally got his attention and off I went already 2/3rds of a lap down on the first lap! So I started catching back up and every time I went to pass someone, I would do a stupid move or some one would do some thing stupid to me. Then I had the misfortune of crashing in a spot where the marshal was running away from my buggy to flip another buggy. Then he would walk back and finally notice me. It wasn’t' his fault, I shouldn't have crashed! But it was frustrating, but "FUN" all in the same time. Man I love racing!!

2 stock shock towers seems a bit thick and heavy? But I'm sure it's tougher!! I just got a Front and rear set of stockers for $10 + $3 to ship. I’ll make do with those for now. I was going to get the PCR ones, but for $38 I couldn’t see it. If I were to crash on those it would make me sick to see them break! LMAO

You see the J-concepts body I painted?

[supralative]

J Bone
I thought about buying the ones on ebay from that mmurray guy I think.
his feedback is decent
they are thicker and cnc'd out where the shocks actually mount...so stronger on the outer edges with the weight savings of the thinner inner parts
hopefully they are strong enough...as with any when it breaks or bends I will upgrade it
cfalco guy has some also, but his have less mounting options but seem extremely light
I think I am going down to DFW this weekend for a 50 ride and play on the SRHobby track down there, here is a link to it:

http://srhobby.com/images/media/newtrack

pretty cool layout hehee
hopefully the diff fluid change will make a difference...then I can start to experiment with diff weights and see how it reacts...I already think I need heavier oil in the rear but it maybe just right for a bumpy track who knows...got to get started in the racing thing also