Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[J_Bone]

Supralative,
You got links to there ebay profiles or stores?

That track looks sweet!!! I like the decision maker! Looks fun!

[hoopdog]

I bought my kit from RC-holics/Cfalco on ebay. Gave me a swinging deal on it,, he even held onto it for me until I decided to buy.

http://stores.ebay.com/RC-HOLICS

[supralative]

Give this one a shot too.
Same guy but his prices are abit cheaper on his own site not the one affiliated with ebay
http://www.rc-holics.com/

I just wish his shock towers had more mounting options.

[eb4flys]

sounds like you had a bummer of a day j-bone, ok the shock tower on ebay you have been looking at, thats the one i usually use, never had a problem with the front one at all, and the back stayed together for a very long time before it bent, i now have rid of the 2 standard ones as the new cnc milled arrived today, any of you guys found any new stuff, i mght have been missing out on while i been so busy, only 8 weeks to go before we are in the USA racing again, so i really have something to look forward to there,
ps: J-bone saw the pic..... looking real smart there, now all we gotta do is start getting some silver wear on the shelf for 1st place...

[SN VipeR]

Hey eb4flys, you can always check my site (http://www.snviper.ch.vu) if you want to know how my racing's going so far. The short story is: It's going very well. :)

[J_Bone]

I guess I will just wait, I got some stock shock toewrs off ebay for $10. I also noticed I had a bent shock shaft, replaced it yesterday at practice. I have to do a fix on my RX power switch. It keeps turning off when I hit hard. I had another run away..aaarrrrggg I'm using a brand new airtronics switch, but doesn't want to stay on. Any tips? I know of a lexan battery switch holder mod, but the rubber boot around my switch will get cut if I do it on it.


SN Viper,
Cool site!! Nice and clean. Not to much junk to filter through. good job!
Looks like your in Germany? What parts? I have family in Hanover.

[eb4flys]

Hi J-bone, ok the switch option, as a rule i dont use a switch under normal race conditions, but when its a EFRA sanctioned event and i have to i go for the KO one, it has never let me down and stands a good bashing and the plus side is water proof and dustproof, might be worth a try.

[J_Bone]

Thanks, I will have to find one! It would be hard for me not to use some kind of switch or maybe I can make a jumper wire so I can plug it in with out unscrewing the RX box.

[supralative]

Mang!!!!!!!!!!!
Throttle servo went out on my buggy again!!!!!!!!
End points are adjusted correctly, no binding, no issues with operation.
Ran about two tanks and then it quits on me after I recharge my receiver pack.
What would you do???? Switch brands???? I am going to send it back to JR Racing, its covered by the 3yr warranty.

On another note, had a blast at that track though. There is a triple then quad section...it cleared it with no issues at all!!!!! All in the landing off the first triple to set up for the quad. The Hyper 21 does lack a bit in the bottom end so you got to carry a bit of corner speed to clear the out of corner jumps.

OH well guys Hitec, Futaba, Airtronics servos...what do you goes recommend for throttle. Also I have heard go with plastic on the throttle to lessen the glitch...is this true?

[eb4flys]

Hi Supra, well i know not all the pros i race with agree, but i have always used the hitec digi servos on my buggy and never had a problem, i use 5945 on steering and throttle/brake, important to set them up before hooking everything up to avoid stalling even for a few seconds, i keep 1 spare and with the 2 year warranty you cant go wrong if one does let go (which it never has) just swap em round. as for plastic, i would never really recommend them as they are not really up to the job. you say your servo packed up after charging your rx pack, just a thought but is your charger working ok, it might be worth checking the battery also, as if its not getting a good charge you steering servo will still work but your throttle tends to stay still and looks like its glitching, i had the same problem when a novak charger had a bad day. hope you get it sorted
michael

[hoopdog]

I've always had good luck with the Airtronics servos. The 357 that I have in my buggy now is a transplant that has gone thru 2 other models. It still sounds good and is as fast as the day I bought it. I had 2 Hitech servos that didn't last very long, it just seems that they cant take any stall whatsoever without popping. Some people have really good luck with them, they just didnt work for me.

[J_Bone]

I Run a Hitec 5945 for steering (It's been in use for over 2 years in a TMaxx then my PCR) and I had a 645 sor throttle. The 645 broke on me too. I'm now running a Hitec 625 and it's been ok for 2 months so far.

[supralative]

alright i will figure out what to do
i am sending these back in today and its abouta 5-7 day turn around

i had these on my 1/10 electric truck and no issues...throw them on the throttle side and they didnt like it all in the 1/8 nitro buggy

i will check the charging system, the current RX pack doesnt hold a charge that long, but i have a new...just need to solder in the charge jumper

thanks

[supralative]

Got the Kyosho light blue springs with the current oil set up and it handled great.
Just put the front sway bar on...no chance to test yet waiting for my servo to come in.
Trying to get a OS RG with a JP1 pipe and we will see how the bottom end is with a new aluminum shoe clutch set up.

Have any of you guys tried like 2 aluminum shoes with one standard shoe to see how it engages and other combos?

[supralative]

OH yea had to go local hardware store to buy some 4-40 x 1inch machine screws with the a phillips head..no hex heads to get the sway bar to mount to the front arms...supplied screws are too short:-(

[Cain]

hello. I am considering purchasing an Ofna 1/8 scale buggy. I have heard great things about the Jammin buggy, but right now I don't want to spend alot as I want to try this type of racing and see.

I like the concept of putting together my own vehicle, which makes me lean towards the hyper 7 TQ . I am also considering the PCR RTR but the info I am getting about the motor isn't good.

Should I go with the Hyper 7 TQ, an OS RB engine, and start from there or would the PCR be more bang for the buck ( maybe sell the hyper 21 and get an OS? ) .

Thanks.

[J_Bone]

Super,
Let me know how the sway bar works. I'm curious.
I like my OS RG with the JP-1 pipe. I'm going to ask someone at the track if they have a JP-2 pipe I can try to test it with and see if it will give me a hair more top end with out too much sacrifice on the bottom.. I'm going to try to get a Callori 3 port for my next engine. My LHS/track has them for $199.
I heard Aluminum shoes wear out the clutch bell faster, but work great! On the RCCA magazine, I have read an article about some pro's using different clutch shoe combos and it work really well!! But it wore out the clutch bell real quick AND they get parts for free!!! lol

Cain,
What sold me on the PCR RTR was the fact that it comes with a starter box and pull start. Minus $50-$80 off the kit just for a starter box. But then again you get RTR electronics too which I removed before I even ran it. But I put it on an old sedan and sold it off on eBay so it was worth it for me.
For the Money, the PCR RTR is a great deal. The Hyper 8 port is a great engine, but the carb doesn't last long for most of us, but not all it seems. Mine lasted about a gallon and the needles started to move on me. I could have just bought a rebuild kit but I wanted to try another engine. What you can do is sell the engine when you get it. Don't break it in or any thing and you can sell it off on eBay or sell it to someone and pay for a OS .21RG with it? It's up to you. What I like now is if I happen to run a longer track, I can take the Carb (OS 20e) off the OS RG engine and put it on the Hyper. It's a strait drop in!

Your best bet is to sit down and write all the prices down for each kit or RTR and what you would like to do with it. The figure out the best price for your budget or maybe get a better engine or radio, servos and see what is the most beneficial for you.


Hyper TQ + $$?
w/ engine $$?
Radio $$??
Starter box = $$?
Glow igniter $$??
tires = $$?
etc.
etc.

PCR RTR $399
new OS = $109
Radio??

and so on.
Hope that helps.

[Cain]

where did you find the PCR for 399?!

[J_Bone]

Ultimate hobbies (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//l136.html)
Call them!!!! the price is cheaper!! plus free shipping.

[Cain]

Thanks for the info. I will definitely have to give them a call.

[hoopdog]

I went with the PCR PRO, no motor or electrics or starter box. My first buggy and I am thourougly impressed. It has taken some pretty vicious tumbles during my learning curve and has held up well, none of the stock pillowball suspension has broke.

Does anybody have a part number or link to the alum uprights for the center diff? I have seen a couple different ones and im not sure wich one is correct for the PCR PRO with the stock Quad brakes.

[J_Bone]

PCR PRO, do you have the extra C-Hubs? The pillow ball IMO is actaully stronger.
The Pro has quad brakes? I want to try these disc's..Cradock brakes (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5935005938&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1)
I haven't had any problems with my brakes yet, but thes are suppose to not fade in a 45 minute or hour long race.

[rshornet]

hi, can anyone give a their shock setup (oil, piston and spring) the track I run is medium in terms of bumpiness and has high jumps, my hyper keeps on bottoming but is still stiff thru the bumpy sections, been watching the xrays and mugens and their shocks works a lot better. I just need a starting point in my setup. thanks.

[J_Bone]

Not sure what you are running? I drilled out my holes with a #54 bit. I run Losi 45wt in front and Losi 35wt in the rear. With the summer temps, it's a bit soft still. I'm thinking of running maybe 40Wt or 45wt in the rear also.

[hoopdog]

PCR PRO, do you have the extra C-Hubs? The pillow ball IMO is actaully stronger.
The Pro has quad brakes? I want to try these disc's..Cradock brakes (http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5935005938&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&rd=1)
I haven't had any problems with my brakes yet, but thes are suppose to not fade in a 45 minute or hour long race.

Yep, the PCR PRO comes with the complete optional setup for C-hub suspension ( arms front & back, springs, extra hinge pins, shock towers, and other assorted goodies to make it work). It comes with the Quad brakes as standard equipment, the thing will stop on a dime, still getting them adjusted right. I seen the those Cradock disks and was wondering about them. From the link that you posted bone, it looks like all of the pros use them. I seem to be getting some flex in the uprights for the center diff from the stopping power of the Quads, thats why I am trying to hunt down the correct alum uprights. Thje uprights seem to be loosening up, even after using red loctite on the screws.

Tower has these, but I dont think they are the right ones
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXNS40&P=0

I went with 45wt front and 40wt rear shock oil (Losi also) with the supplied medium springs. I did not drill out the pistons. It seems to work oK, but then again I am still working with it.

[rshornet]

Not sure what you are running? I drilled out my holes with a #54 bit. I run Losi 45wt in front and Losi 35wt in the rear. With the summer temps, it's a bit soft still. I'm thinking of running maybe 40Wt or 45wt in the rear also.

thanks J_Bone, I am running a hyper 7 pro c-hub. still new to running 1/8th and only beginning to learn. the expert driver here drilled his pistons to 4 holes #55 and uses 60wt and 35wt trinity front and rear. I find it too soft and bottoms alot but he is almost unbeatable with his hyper 7 yannick tq. he is a seasoned driver and the local hobao dealer. just curious which direction to go. :D

[supralative]

hi, can anyone give a their shock setup (oil, piston and spring) the track I run is medium in terms of bumpiness and has high jumps, my hyper keeps on bottoming but is still stiff thru the bumpy sections, been watching the xrays and mugens and their shocks works a lot better. I just need a starting point in my setup. thanks.


Currently
Stock PBS pistons Kyosho blue springs all around with 55wt Trinity oil up front and a mix of 30wt AE and 55wt Trinity in rear...its about a 40/60 mix. Didnt have a heavier oil at the time. Rear was way too soft with the 30wt...guessing 40wt to 45wt range now.
The track I ran sounds similiar to yours so hopefully this will help.
Ride height is the CVD/dogbones are level height.

[J_Bone]

Hoopdog,
I'm not to sure about the Diff supports. I would give Nitro House (http://nitrohouse.com/index.htm) a call and talk to them. They share the same building as OFNA so they can go and pick stuff off OFNA shelves. They are awesome and will work with you. They make special kits that OFNA neglected to make for like Hyper upper hinge pins and other stuff.
Have you used the C-Hub's yet?


rshonet,
I was running 22.5wt oil in the rear of mine for a while. It soaked up the small stuff but it would slap hard on big landings. So I have gone up too. With 4 holes drilled out, yours will get rid of the PACK from real hard hits or sharp edged bumps, but sometimes you want a bit more so you don't slam the chassis all the time. But every person does have there own style and preferences.


Superlative,
I use the Blue(not stock) OFNA springs and they seem to be the exact same as the Kyosho ones. Same color and spring tension. I think Kyosho might sell them cheaper though?

[supralative]

J-Bone I know what springs you are talking about...I got a set too hehehe.
I copied this from the twsf8 site or something like that
Made a print out so I can refer to it at the track if I need it. I still need to add more spring info when I buy them.
I am gonna try the GS Racing dual rate springs down the road too. Got a small spring and a larger spring coupled together. Both have different rates so it might work out good.

Spring Rates for Hyper 7 set up

Measured in N/mm

Color Front Springs Rear Springs

Ofna Springs

Pink/Purple .5766 .4687

Light Blue .7031 .5725

Dark Blue .7490 .6262

Black .7781 .6311

White .8349 .6026


Kyosho Springs

Light blue .7353 .6026

[hoopdog]

Nah, I havent used the C-hub setup yet. It is still in the package. The steering knuckles are still the original cast knuckles and I have heard that they are pretty fragile, so I will hold off on that. I see that PCR makes cnc knuckles now

[J_Bone]

Superlative,
I never seen the Dark Blue OFNA springs. I wonder where the stock ano, blue springs fall in too??

hoopdog,
If you ever want to get rid of the C-hub setup, let me know. I have been wanting to see how they run.

[rshornet]

Currently
Stock PBS pistons Kyosho blue springs all around with 55wt Trinity oil up front and a mix of 30wt AE and 55wt Trinity in rear...its about a 40/60 mix. Didnt have a heavier oil at the time. Rear was way too soft with the 30wt...guessing 40wt to 45wt range now.
The track I ran sounds similiar to yours so hopefully this will help.
Ride height is the CVD/dogbones are level height.

:D Thanks a lot! :D :D

what diff oil setup do you run? I run 3k std, 3k spider, 1k std, F-C-R.

[supralative]

J Bone I mean the dark blue anodised looking springs.

rs hornet
I run 3-5-1 with STD-SPIDER-STD front to rear. First time try and it turned alot better than some grease that was in it.
Doing the shock oil was a huge difference. There is a section of the track where you come out of a 180 degree turn and have to hammer down to clear a section of small whoops...I saw alot of buggies go end up alot from the rear slapping down and bouncing up so hard.

On another note I stepped up to a Futaba 3PM FM radio. It came with the heavy duty 3305 servo. Threw it all in and got rid of the switch and a ran a straight battery to receiver hook up. Got the steering end points adjusted then started to work on the throttle. It was going well and I started to fine tune the brake bias. Out of nowhere the throttle servo goes out again!!!!!!! What do you guys think the problem...it hasnt even seen any gas or anything. Battery was full, everything was doing fine then it craps out. The servo is currently froze now and will not move at all. Help me out....looking at all the linkages and everything, it doesnt look like anything is binding. I dont know what the problem is. All of this in a span of 20minutes.
SUCKS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[J_Bone]

Oh man, you need to http://az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/shoot14.gif
This might be a stretch, but maybe try changing the RX if you got one? I haven't heard of that many servos’ going bad that fast. Maybe there is a short or something wrong with the RX? These are all brand new servos' right?

[SN VipeR]

Was it a 5-cell receiver pack? Some servos don't take too well to those when they're freshly charged. They can put out more than 7 Volts then.
I charge mine the day before racing and if when I have to charge them on the spot, I discharge them a little again so the voltage drops.

[J_Bone]

That's a good point SN vVpeR. Or maybe try charging at a lower amp rate? I usually charge mine at 1 amp and have had no problems.

[supralative]

Rx was brand new as well as the servo, 5cell Traxxas pack...that has sat for about a week.

Funny thing was the buggy ran about a month ago fine...no issues at all then all of this throttle servo problem.

[stormracer]

Replying to comment about friends Storm breaking easily how high was jump I have had a storm 4 years hit trees curbs mailbox post cased jumps damage that always breaks friends 7.5 only broke 2 front a-arms and rear suspension muont screws couple times Iown a Hyper TQ Sport now too. These are 2 of the toughest buggies out there.

[badboy2]

im shopping for a 21engine for my buggy any suggestions ..price ranges is no more than 240

[J_Bone]

im shopping for a 21engine for my buggy any suggestions ..price ranges is no more than 240
There are a few in that price range that are worth it.
OS .21RG no pull start = $109
OS .21RG-x pull start = $139
Hyper 8 port = $139 possible carb issues, OS 20e carb will solve it.
SH .21 pro buggy engine = $229
RB concepts S5 = $225
RB concepts S7 II = $239
RB concepts CE econo = $169
Werks Collari 3 port = $199
Here are lists of a few. but it depends on what you are going to do? It sounds like you are going to race since you stated that you want a .21. IF you can use an engine bigger than a .21 I recommend a Sportwerks .26 for $139.
If not I recommend the Werks Collari (my fav) or the RB S7 II for racing.
For Bashing, I like the OS and you can almost get 2 for the price of one.

[SN VipeR]

Here's a video of my first Swiss championship race:

http://mypage.bluewin.ch/www.snviper.ch.vu/firststrike.jpg (http://www.snviper.ch.vu)

As always you'll find it on my page (http://www.snviper.ch.vu).
Have fun and tell me how you like it!

PS: I know it's not a Hyper, I only use my Hyper for practice, but try to enjoy it anyhow. ;)

[TucsonRevo]

hi. im a noob to buggies. i just got a hyper pbs pcr version. is thiss the right thread for it??? it iiis very pretty. havent broken it in yet. the starter box doesnt seem 2 work. any suggestions?? how would you guys reccomend i break the engine in? the suspension sees to have a lot of toe out in the front. is this normal? thanks and sorry for the questions. :D

[J_Bone]

hi. im a noob to buggies. i just got a hyper pbs pcr version. is thiss the right thread for it??? it iiis very pretty. havent broken it in yet. the starter box doesnt seem 2 work. any suggestions?? how would you guys reccomend i break the engine in? the suspension sees to have a lot of toe out in the front. is this normal? thanks and sorry for the questions. :D
yes, this is the right thread for the Hyper 7 PCR too.
You plug in the batteries? What type of batteries are you using? A little more info would help me help you.

I usually break my engines in by heat cycling them. 1 idle, 4 cycles at 3 minutes and 4 cycles at 4 minutes above 210F.

Front toe, I run 0 to +1 and the rear I run -3. Most RTR's are just put together and not really setup. You will need to fine tune it.

[J_Bone]

SN Viper,
Great video's!!! Top notch! Good win!
Man that track is flat with only one jump, but it looked fun. Great job!

[TucsonRevo]

i am using pihrana 1900's. i just got them and the charger. should be done in about 5 mins, so i will see if they work. it woundnt work with two junk packs. sorry if i sound stupid , but how do you adjust and measure toe???
my lhs told me to do tank 1 idle on ground, tank 2 1/4 throttle, tank three a little more, tank 4 half throttle, thank five 3/4 throttle , then i can start leanin it out. is this right????? i want something surefire and easy as this is my first engine break in. i let the hobbyshop do my revo. i dont need an amazing amount of power if it is hard to break in. i just want it to be easy.

thanks
-jake

[TucsonRevo]

also could you clarify jbone. you do 1 tank idle and what do you do for four three minute cycles?? sorry im stupid

[TucsonRevo]

whew. i fiinally got the starter box to work. after dissassemblin the whole thing i found that the red lead that connects to the switch was disconnected, so i crimped it back on. i read earlier that the starter box that comes with the pcr might have trouble turning it over. how shud i start it for the first time. i am still waiting on break in information. thanks in advance you guys, i am very excited about breakin it in 2morrow :)

[J_Bone]

Hey, no prob!!! I use a 12v lead acid battery in my starter box.
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album03/IMG_1385.sized.jpg
And I use a power panel
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album03/IMG_1386.sized.jpg

I use a RPM toe gauge to measure the toe. It's cheap and easy to use. Your LHS should have one.


Now this is a cycle method I use and I am in no way responsible for any problems that occur during the break in or beyond. I'm not there to verify you are doing this properly or have the engine prepared properly!
Break in: Engine must be above 200F on every cycle. Use a temp gauge!
1 tank at idle, make sure it gets up to 200 degree's, if not you need to lean out the low speed needle. Then when done, make sure the piston is at bottom dead center and put a fan on it. I try to get it as cool as possible but not below 70F degrees.
Now I stop going by how many tanks, just by how many cycles and how long.
Now I run it at 1/4 throttle for 3 minutes, then shut it down and making sure the piston is at bottom dead center and put a fan on it again. I do this 3 times.
Next, I will do the same method(above 200 and cool at BDC), but run it for 4 minutes and at half throttle. I do this 3 times. Now on the 4th one, you can start to open it up more, but I don't.
Now after the 7 cycles I start to run it for 5-6 minutes at 3/4 throttle and the final one I will open it up.
From here is when I start to lean it out and tune it.

[TucsonRevo]

would you reccomend this over the other way, and is it easy to screw up????????

[J_Bone]

Well, its how I do it and it's easy. No it's not hard, but if the engine is not hot enough or it's too hot or run it with out a air filter or with no oil. That's all..CYA

[TucsonRevo]

cool. i guess ill see. the piston sttuck at the top, so i heaed it up, but it wouldnt start on the start box unless i held the gas wiiide open and now the piston is stuck again. the pull start wont even pull. :mad: :confused: oh well im takin it to the lhs either this afternoon or monday, cuz we are goin on a trip tomorrow. its just kinda frustrating to spend 500 dollars on some thing and have so many problems before you even start it. i am confident it will get better though. i hope :o

[J_Bone]

Use a hair dryer to heat up the engine. I ususally would heat it up to 140 or so. It will help start a new engine. Keep it a bottom dead center!! lol

[TucsonRevo]

my flywheel is to hard to turn over by hand, i cant put it at bdc. ill try after i heat it up. what about the fact that it will only start when im holdin the throttle down????

[J_Bone]

It's tough at first because of the tight pinch, but that's why you should heat it up. It will allow the piston and sleeve to expand. Which is the whole purpose of breaking in an engine.
So, it's normal for the engine to only want to run with a high throttle, but not good.

[supralative]

J Bone here are those shock towers I was talking about back then in some previous post. Finally got them on along with the Kyosho Blues up front and Ofna Whites in back. You can also see the front swaybar in one of the pics...still no test though waiting to buy one more Airtronics 94358 servo then I will be good.....hopefully. I got one of those for steering and found the other JR Z650M was jumping teeth so sent it back. Once I get those back, I will let my buddy use them...he just got his Hyper 7!! I will get some pics of it also when we are finished with it.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/ShockTowers2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/ShockTowers3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/ShockTowers1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/ShockTowers4.jpg

[TucsonRevo]

well i took it to the lhs and they helped me get it running. will break in on monday. going to the beach 2 morrow. i will be changing to a new servo and 45 weight shock oil next week. any other relatively inexpensive must-haves? do i need to upgrade the throttle servo 2?? i will be using o'donnel 30% for racing. break in on byron 20%. what about springs. should stock be ok?? thanks for the help :)

-jake

[J_Bone]

superlative,
where did you get that front sway bar? I've been thinking of trying that but we are re building our track and it will have more jumps.
Looking good!!
This is just the start. Pic's from up on the driver stand.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/IMG_1570.JPG
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/IMG_1571.JPG

TucsonRevo,
Glad to hear you got it running. Beach? where you live?
The stock springs should be good for now.

[TucsonRevo]

hey guys . just thought that you guys would like a story of stupidity. i just cut out all the stickers and put them very carefully, only to find out that i forgot to take off the protective wrapping that comes on it at first.:( anyone got some extra window stickers? lol:) oh well ill wait till my body is all messed up then pull it off and figure sumthin out. unless someone has extras;)

[TucsonRevo]

oh i dont live close. goin on a weekend trip to rocky point in mexico. i live in southern arizona. its like a four hour drive. will the stock springs be ok even with 45 weight?? what about the servos?? where u guys live? i like the shok towers superlative!!

[TucsonRevo]

if its like 100 degrees outside, should i still leave the purple thing that comes on the head on?? the lhs told me it would help cooling if i took it off

[TucsonRevo]

hey jbone!! is that hobbyaction in tempe??? that is lookin better :) it would be cool if it was.

[J_Bone]

hey jbone!! is that hobbyaction in tempe??? that is lookin better :) it would be cool if it was.
why YES IT IS!! I was just there today helping out.

I live in Quen Creek, AZ. I just moved here 3 years ago from San Diego, CA.
I go dwon to Tucson once a month for work. I wish compittion hobbies would run nitro!!

You can remove the plastic cap. Mine fell off the very first heat race it was in.
I run Hitec 5945 for steering and a hitec 625 for throttle.
TEh stock springs will be ok for now. Put the oil in and test it. You can use as much spring spacers to get the ride hieght you want.

[TucsonRevo]

im just below tucson. red in ur profile that u r in queencreek.not sure where that is. did they get a permit for the drivers stand, and did they get rid of the huge double??? that little roller in front of it was annoying, but i guess it saved a few people from catching buggys unexpectedly:)

[TucsonRevo]

i didnt know they were redoin the track. thats really cool. the new layout looks much better!!

[TucsonRevo]

competition hobbies is nice, i agree about that wish. do you ever race at hobbytown. im currently goin up at least once a week. i would go to hobbyation but its 1 hour and 45 mins:(

[J_Bone]

Queen Creek is 45 minutes South East of Phoenix. Near Coolidge.

From what I last heard,, the driver stand issue is wrapping up in our favor.
Ya, we got rid of the huge double. But there will be more!!! LOL
damn, I can't find the old pic's of the double...

[supralative]

J Bone
I just bought a sway bar off of ebay from that Dinball guy. It takes awhile coming from over seas. I honestly think a rear sway bar set is the same...I just went with the largest diameter he had. I only had to go out and buy those 4x40x1 screws if I remember right to mount them. You can get a sway bar set off of ebay or your LHS and it would work I bet.

Tucson, I have upgraded steering and throttle servos, went to 55wt oil in front a mix of 60/40 of 55wt/30wt in the rear with blue Kyosho springs up front and white Ofna springs in back. According to the TWF8 site the rears are rated the same as the blue Kyosho so I just switched to change up the colors. 1pc Ofna 086 pipe, 3/5/1 diff fluid front to rear, upgraded shock mounts, and whatever free-mod you can see needed. I will do the steering rack upgrade like J Bone did also. Set your buggy up on a HUDY...it will help alot.

[TucsonRevo]

Jbone
did they get rid of pit lane, and do they need help rebuildin? it would give me a chance to meet some of those Phoenix racers, maybe come and actually race! Ive heard some of you guys are on another level, compared to tucson. maybe i will just take tucson by storm and then we'll work on Phoenix. :Dlol:Dwhen are they racing now??and last but not least, did you mean more big doubles like that, or just more doubles????????

Superlative
sorry but could you tell me what exactly a HUDY is:confused:
also, is it hard to change diff fluid??

[TucsonRevo]

wont get to break-in till monday:mad: going to the beach is such a drag;)

[J_Bone]

no, pit lane will still be in the same place. They can always use help. They did more work last night and I will stop by today to look at it.
They are putting more rhythm sections and big jumps, but I don’t' think it's going to have that big of a double again. Definitely more jumps and it will be a lot longer.
Here's the layout. I'm sure it will be a bit different since it's not to scale.
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=75251
http://www.rctech.net/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=75253

Hudy is a setup tool that is accurate. It’s nice but is pricey! And diff oil is easy to change...lol sorry superlative.

[eb4flys]

Hi Guys, looks like its starting to get busy on the forum again, been real busy at the moment, but will return soon with the usual usless info for you all. hope all the racing is going well. :)

[supralative]

hehe J Bone no need to be sorry
thats what these forums are to help each other
thats the only way we learn
I should have some pics of his buggy up by Sunday

[J_Bone]

eb4flys,
Good luck and give us the results!! You always have good info.

Supalative,
pic's are always good!! lol

[TucsonRevo]

wow ! that layout looks better. how do the tracks cross over?? when are they workin on it, as i would probly go help? is a hudy worth it. im gonna finish the other half of the first tank of idle today, and break the rest in 2morra.
-jake

[J_Bone]

The cross over is strait in line with the drivers stand. They are working on it tonight and tomorrow. Help is always welcomed.




Here's the old double
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/Hobbyaction_double_front.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/Hobbyaction_double.jpg

[TucsonRevo]

wow! i hadnt actually seen ne 1 jump it. the roller has been in front since the only time i have been there. well i finished the tank of idle, but when i hit the gas to go, it doesnt engage, unless you hold the throttle in that position for a long time, then it will move, then all of a sudden it will disengage again. when i use the radio the carb oppens all the way and stuff. my dad wants me to idle another tank through. i am idlin at about 125-160. would it hurt the engine if i idled another tank through? (2nd tank) i could probably go to the lhs, but it would piss my dad off, so thats a last resort. i kinda have to do what he says cuz he payed 4 half of it.

[J_Bone]

ya, I use to over jump it with out the roller. Cleared it with the roller but we were not to jump it in a race while we stood on pit lane.
DON'T IDLE IT THAT COOL!!! You are doing more damage than good with it that cool!! Should have it minim of 200. 220 is ideal.
SO, Idle another tank but make sure it's above 200!!!!
It is too rich and you probably aren't getting enough RPM's to engage the clutch?

[TucsonRevo]

thats where hobbytown said to idle it. are they full of sh**??????????????

[J_Bone]

thats where hobbytown said to idle it. are they full of sh**??????????????

IMO...YES! The Hobby Town here in GIlbert are jokers. They don't know S#$t but they think they do. They told a guy to use After run oil as air filter oil..I almost yelled at them! But I waited and walked out with the guy to tell him the truth.
All heat cycles need to be over 200. Never run it under 200 either!!

[TucsonRevo]

they helped mmme start it, but they also told me that i could use afterrun oil as air filter. havent done it yet

[J_Bone]

they helped mmme start it, but they also told me that i could use afterrun oil as air filter. havent done it yet

OMG..dont' use it.http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/Forums/images/smiles/headbangwall.gif ARO is not meant for foam air filters. It will let dirt pass right through. Notice the air filter that came with it, it's not ARO. It foam air filter oil! Use Foam air filter oil! It's designed just for that purpose. I use my air filter oil from my MX bike (foam filter too). So I have a huge can with filter cleaner too.

[TucsonRevo]

ok. they dont even have air filter oil. they just say u can use aro

[TucsonRevo]

what kind do u use. i would like 2 have a big can

[J_Bone]

I use this Air Filter oil (http://www.rockymountainmc.com/Product_Details.atv?pid=00013163) I also have PJ1 Filter oil removers and it works great!!!!!

Go to any Motor cycle shop and look and see what they got. Bel Ray or Maxima would work too!! It's the best price, better than buying online RC oil.

[supralative]

yea i use Belray foam filter oil back from my dirtbike days hehehee big ol' bottle and its alot cheaper and will outlast the small bottles of air filter oil at hobby shops
i just clean it with palmolive air dry it out and drop into a plastic baggy with the filter oil and work it in

have a few extra filters on handy for quick changes i also use a pre filter too

as soon as my buddy's hyper 21 comes in we will drop it in along with his JP1 pipe and shoot some pics for you guys

then start breaking it in
you lean it out pretty good J Bone to get it above the 200 degree area???

[TucsonRevo]

cool. it is interesting how many people in rc are involved in or used to be involved in other offroad sports. like dirtbikes and atvs. i am racing a yfz450 right now.

Jbone
do i need to idle it above 200 degrees even if i dont use the heat cycle break-in method?

[TucsonRevo]

if i have k&n filter oil from the filter on my yamaha, will that work.??? i dont think so, cuz k$n is gauze filter but i just thought i would find out cuz i already have some

[supralative]

i wouldnt use the K&N oil its more of a gauze paper type filter instead of a foam type filter

i never raced or got into anything serious with offroad side of two wheels, but i did roadrace a SV650 shortly and did a bunch of track days on a R6

[TucsonRevo]

cool

[J_Bone]

cool. it is interesting how many people in rc are involved in or used to be involved in other offroad sports. like dirtbikes and atvs. i am racing a yfz450 right now.

Jbone
do i need to idle it above 200 degrees even if i dont use the heat cycle break-in method?

I just sold my YZF450. hehe, I'm too old for all the broken bones these days.
Here's some pictures of me at ET Moto Park.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/Pictures/J_Bone@ET.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/Pictures/J_Bone_side.JPG

The idle method is suppose to be a heat cycle. I would never run my engine under 200. Running under that will wear out the piston and sleeve and break you rod.

[badboy2]

anyone here used the picco omega x3 21 engine?how is it?

[supralative]

anyone here used the picco omega x3 21 engine?how is it?


i havent
thats the one with the purple head and black block correct i have seen them on ebay if that is the one

my only experience is with the hyper 21
probably an os 21 rg next with a JP1 pipe or an RB5 with same 086 pipe i run now hehehehe

[TucsonRevo]

nope. havent seen it.

has anyone used the os V-spec??? i just saw one and thought it looked really cool. wondered if it was good and what the price was.

[TucsonRevo]

Jbone
i just found some air filter oil from before i switched to a k&n for my quad. does it matter what kind of air filter oil it is, as long as it is for foam filters??

Also, does anyone know where i can get spare filter elements

[supralative]

Tucson you should be good if its air filter oil for a foam filter type element.
V-Spec is one the top of the line OS engines.
Ebay, Nitrohouse, TowerHobbies, they are all over...

[TucsonRevo]

cool thanks. what about spare air filterzs

[Ball Racing]

I just installed the Yannick Worlds TQ uprade on my PBS.
The PBS shares the same length chassis as the yannick kit.
So you do not need the center dog bones, and drive cups that the kit comes with. :confused:

The Chassis is milled, but not as much as my Jammin Pro, or my Mayhem Pro. :(

The shock towers WILL work on the PBS, on difference is the upper arm mounting hole for the front is in a slighty differnce location the bottom hole is the same... :)

The rear tower was a direct fit.(just a little dremel flashing removal around gear case screws). :)

I had already put 9.5 shocks on my PBS so the longer 3.5mm yannick shocks are nice, but the chassis limits down travel ,so longer shocks don't seem like a asset. :rolleyes:

So really I think I could have just bought a milled chassis, and PCR or such shock towers and had the same thing.. :o

Is it worth 180.00, I guess it depends on what hop-ups you already have.......

[supralative]

cool thanks. what about spare air filterzs

Ebay
nitrohouse
towerhobbies
local hobby shops
cheap man i usually have like two pre oiled and ready to use if I need
i had two spares and my buddy just got his buggy and new engine so he used one of them

[erik3d]

Hello Friends!
I'm a newbie to this forum but I have read through all 64 pages of this thread! many interesting posts! :)
First of all, sorry if i am repeating topics that have allready been discussed previously, but I still haven't found answers to many of my doubts.
Second, please, forgive my bad english...


My doubts are:

I just got a new Hyper PRO 8P in front of me.. and after trying to get as much info from the forum about break in procedures I still find myself a bit lost... (If any one could point me in the right direction I'd be very grateful!)

Here it goes:
as far as I understand the most common way of breaking in a .21 engine is to start adding a tiny bit of ARO just to make sure it's lubed. (and turn it around a few times) correct?

Then it's just a question of leaving the factory needle settings as they are and just add the normal fuel (In my case I got 20% nitro) and pre-heat the engine a bit with a hairdryer to minimize strain the on it?
then try to fire it up and just run on low RPM through a few tanks (4 or 5 right?) and leave it to cool down between the tanks at the lowest position possible for the piston?
And then.. after the first tanks start trying to adjust the needle settings to get the mixture right (still very rich)...

Now... this is how I would have done it if it wasnt for the little "Instruction note" that came in the Hyper 7 Engine box....:

"Running In: Engine require 2 stages of running in 25-30 min 1st stage, cool break in. By using fuel of content 5% nitro, open the main needle 5-6 turns and with carburetor fully y open and run at low RPM. Engine temperature remains at 35-40 degrees C (that's 95-105 Farenheit): carburetor will turn cool & sweat"

??? never heard of "Cool break in" never heard of 5% nitro, never heard of opening the needle 5-6turns (that's 6X360 degrees???)
the ambient temp in my office is at the moment 30C. will the engine run at all if it's that cool? what does "carburetor fully open" mean?

It continues....
"and after 3-4 tanks proceed with stage 2 hot break in.
Run on the ground with low RPM for another 2 tanks. After break in use the fuel you desire up to 25% nitro and close the main needle 1/8th of a turn at a time to get top performance. engine temp should not exceed 140-150 C (285-305 Farenheit)"

Second part sounds more like what I have heard around on the forums.... but 285-305 seems like very hot for max temp? (It kind of implies that you should be fine running at 270F (132C), doesn't it?

Heeelp.... :)

Need all your advice/opinions/suggestions!

Best regards,

Erik.

[J_Bone]

cool thanks. what about spare air filterzs
I got my extras at Hobby Action.

There is a guy in Casa Grande who has a OS V-spec in his Revo. IMO, it's too much for the Revo but they haul butt in buggies. I have heard a few horror stories about them. Never witnessed it.

Ball Racing,
What all is in the TQ kit? I've heard of it, just not sure exactly what is in it.

erik3d,
Yes, add a drop or two of ARO.

I'm not sure how to explain the heat cycle method any more than I posted already. It's simple and basic.

As far as needle positions, mine was way off from the factory set points. I had to adjust the needle before I could get it to start. It was way too rich and flooded it. It's relative to what it needs. I have read of so many different positions it makes my head spin.

I've never heard of the cool break in. Doesn't sound right to me. Looking to snap the rod.

Break in an engine with the fuel you plan to run. Don't get a 5% Nitro junk. What ever you plan to use, use it to break it in. You can still change fuels down the road but you might have to re-tune it is all.

Hyper's are good engines but keep an eye out on the carb. Mine only lasted about a gallon and the needles started moving all over. Some have had good luck, but not most of us. I use my OS 20e carb when I run my hyper, which I might do with the new track layout.
Make sure you keep some extra glow plugs!

[TucsonRevo]

hey jbone
im not gonna make it to hobbyaction this weekend.:( i have to race hobbytown. is the new crossover jump cool??? do you have pics???????

Anyone
is a 645mg servo too slow for steering?? is it slower than stock??
i can get one for 39.95.

[J_Bone]

hey jbone
im not gonna make it to hobbyaction this weekend.:( i have to race hobbytown. is the new crossover jump cool??? do you have pics???????

Anyone
is a 645mg servo too slow for steering?? is it slower than stock??
i can get one for 39.95.
No biggie! The cross over is sweet, but the dirt and the rest of the track is even better

Go to the azfreaks boards I linked you, it has pictures of the track.

645 is too slow for me, but is better than stock. I ran it for my throttle servo and it was too slow there too and it stopped working after about gallon of fuel.
You can find cheaper ones off eBay. I just got a Hitec 925 off eBay and it works great!! $48 with shipping.. :D

[xxrcbuggy]

How can I get more steering(turn) from my PBS steering? Having hard time to go in tight trun, There is no more room to push the Upper arm forward.

[TucsonRevo]

cool. maybe after showing my rents pics of the track i can convince someone to take me. :lol:

i still have to get her all tuned up. havent touched her after breakin

[J_Bone]

How can I get more steering(turn) from my PBS steering? Having hard time to go in tight trun, There is no more room to push the Upper arm forward.
PBS doesn't turn as tight as a C-hub, but it can come close.
Tire selection, Oil weight, shock position and ride height are all factors. Where are you at?

[supralative]

Du Ma!!!!!!!!!!
Hyper 7 is working but got a radio glitch I have to figure out. WOT it makes the servos geek out and twitch. Gonna redo my wire routing for the servos and failsafe to see if it helps. Battery is secure and not touching the chassis. BUMMER...its back in action though.

Got my buddies motor broke in now actually working on tuning it. HSN is almost fullout but it keeps temping up...any clues...go in with to see if it will help.
Its quick as hell though...Hyper 21 8Port with 12T clutch bell and JP1 make this thing have some bottem for sure and it screams pretty well up top!!!
I plan on taking pics tomorrow of the two buggies.

J Bone remember the steering rack mod you did, countersink the rack, flip the hex screw and put the locking nut on the bottom???
You know what I just found out hehehe. My buddies PBS didnt rub the upper arms at all...took a closer and found out why. Near the lower hinge pins on there is a hex head set screw...same size as the large ones on the chassis. Well you can turn those down and it allows the arms to travel so far down...no more rubing!!!!. You can also set the rear too, as they have them also.

[J_Bone]

HSN is almost fullout but it keeps temping up...any clues...go in with to see if it will help.
Superlative,
Sounds like a air leak some where!!

J Bone remember the steering rack mod you did, countersink the rack, flip the hex screw and put the locking nut on the bottom???
yes, I'm trying to see what you are describing. The lower hinge pins aren't adjustable on my PCR. Only the top. Plus the bottom would make a difference in handling and ride hieght. But the head hits the top a-arm, so dropping the bottom would make it worse?? Or am I lost??? LMAO

[supralative]

Superlative,
Sounds like a air leak some where!!


yes, I'm trying to see what you are describing. The lower hinge pins aren't adjustable on my PCR. Only the top. Plus the bottom would make a difference in handling and ride hieght. But the head hits the top a-arm, so dropping the bottom would make it worse?? Or am I lost??? LMAO

alright i will check for an airleak...reseal some things if needed

look on the lower suspension arm
toward the hinge pin...not on it
right next to it is a big hex head set screw a little bit lower then half way down the side of the arm that is held in by the hingepin not the side that holds the pillowballs
if you had some hex head drivers you could put it through the opening of the tap arm and go straight down to it to tighten it
if you tighten that hex screw it will go lower and not allow the arms to drop so much when the car is elevated or actually jumping in the air

let me know if you see it and if not i will take some pics for you

[J_Bone]

OOOHHHH, the droop screws? The vertical ones that actually screw into the a-arm and limit droop or ride height. Ya, I go all the way out for more travel for jumping. That's why I did the bolt reversal mod instead of limiting the droop.


Here's a better picture. It was only $4 for a bag of nuts which I use else where too.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/steeringmod.jpg

[supralative]

yea hehehee
i learn more and more everyday LOL
now how do you have your servo wires, power wires, failsafe(if you run one) all ran?
new FM radio and its glitching hate this stuff hehehe

[eb4flys]

Hi Guys, hope your all ok, nice to see J-Bone keeping up the good advice, anything i can do to help just ask, now im back home for a couple of months
:)

[supralative]

Alright here pics of me and my buddies Hyper 7.
We are both running the Airtronics 94358's for steering and throttle, Hyper 21 8Ports with a Ofna 086 pipe in mine and Jammin JP1 in his, and the basics as usual hehehe.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7s1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7s2.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7s3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7s4.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7s5.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7s6.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Sang.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Son.jpg

[J_Bone]

yea hehehee
i learn more and more everyday LOL
now how do you have your servo wires, power wires, failsafe(if you run one) all ran?
new FM radio and its glitching hate this stuff hehehe
I run mine under the servos, to the box. And inside the box I wrap all the wires up. I run a fail safe too.
Check the switch too!! My stock one glitched on me and now I run a Airtronics one. The best way to find the problem is to swap one thing out at a time. That way you can isolate the problem.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/Side.jpg





HEY eb4flys!!!!
How was the trip/races?? I was just wondering if you were going to make it back. lol..


Here's some new pic's of mine from yesterday.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/01ofna.jpg
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/OFNA/OS_novahead.jpg

[supralative]

NICE AND CLEAN heheheheh

cool springs...LOL

J Bone I am running a direct connection to the receiver no switch...just plug the battery into the receiver pig tail and its on. I have switched radios, connections to the receiver, battery, and routing of failsafe. Gonna switch battery first, then failsafe routing, and lastly connections.
My buddy is running my old radio, routed just like mine currently and its all good...so hopefully its the battery pack or failsafe routing for me though.

Finally got his on a decent tune. Got it to the point were it was too rich and lost power...then leaned out from there and the power started to come back with good temps.

Me and him will start racing in about 3wks...got two weddings in a row to attend then its free time!!!!

[TucsonRevo]

well i got theee 645mg servo today. not super fast but it is a helluva lot better than stock and the price was right:Dnot sure if you guys are like that (bad experience on another forum) but please dont tell me the 645 is ssuper slow or i am going to hate it because i am just glad to have a new relatively good servo. not meaning to accuse you guys or anything :o

my baby is all tuned up and man is this thing faster than my revos stock motor :lol:
i have it tuned for low end and it would spin the tires and throw rocks on pavement so i am excited. first race 2morrow. you guys probably dont care but ill let you know how it went anyways. i have to race at hobbytown:mad: the track is too small.

my next upgrade will be a rechargeable receiver pack(8 aa's a race night is insane)
then some tires. what do you guys reccomend for a smooth tight track, with a tiny bit of loose dirt on top.

how do you adjust the brake bias:confused:

awesome buggys Jbone and Supralative. i would post picks of mine, but its nothing special and i dont know how lol

whew tired of asking questions
thanks in advance and for all the help you guys have already given me

-JAKE

[TucsonRevo]

i also noticed that my airfilter rubs the body. normal????? how can i fix

[eb4flys]

Hey J-Bone,
trip was fantastic, racing was some of the worst conditions i have seen but, we did ok, and are now ready for the main international race of the season at our home track, also have another trip to the good old USA on august 4th. have to say your buggy is looking like a proper racing buggy now all those different color rims and stuff, good to see people going for performance rather than showroom conditions, nice shinny nova heatsink too. have you done anywork to your track, im sure i read it somewhere you were doing some.

tuscon revo,
are you running the extention S pipe on your air filter? you will always find that it rubs a bit, but just put a bit of masking tape on tape on the inside of the body and it will stop the paint comming off. also if you are using the S pipe, its worth putting a 1/10 shock spring inside the pipe to stop it collapsing when its sucking air. as for your servos, why would we want to say they are slow, the first servos i had were all plastic and had a reaction time of about 2 hours :) :) so your starting better than me. dont worry about getting crap on this forum, you will find a great bunch of guys with top advice, if your bottom end is spinning the tires alot you might want to go for a higher tooth clutch bell or richen up the bottom, as to much bottom is a bad as not enough when your racing, but the main thing is, have fun

[J_Bone]

Superlative,
What new parts have you installed? Was it just the RX? What new Radio was it again? Sorry, just got up...lol


TucsonRevo,
645 is 100% better than the stock one!!
A rechargeable pack is a must!! Especially now that you got a good servo. I run these cheapies..Batterspace.com (http://www.batteryspace.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=78)
It's almost $20 for 2 shipped to your house. I've been running them for over 7 months and no problems. Just a minor trim to the plug and it's ready to go.

As for tires, I'm not to sure of how the track is @ Hobby Town but you can try Pro Line crime fighters, Panther Komoto 1's or 2's and maybe even Pro Line cell blocks which are for indoor smooth tracks. Look at some of the other buggies racing watch the guy who is winning and ask him what he runs.
Good Luck and remember. Have fun!!!

Brake Bias. It's the small collars with the tiny grub screws. Look at my picture above that shows the servos. There is 2 adjusters, ones for the front and the other is for the rear.

Air filter, eb4flys advise is great!! I forgot about the spring inside the air filter boot/pipe. That works great!!


eb4flys,
What race are you coming over here for?
thanks for the complements! I'm anti bling bling...I do everything for performance, not looks!! hehehe..

[eb4flys]

Hi J_bone,
not coming there for any race really, just spending a couple of weeks, trying tracks round Vegas and Cali. bit of a vacation bit of racing, but hey who needs an excuse to get on a plane and spend time in Vegas.. :cool:

[J_Bone]

eb4flys,
Sounds like fun!! If you happen to come to Arizona, let me know. We get all kinds of racers coming into town who show up.
Ya, the time you come out here, there is a big race. I forgot off hand which one, since I only race locally because of my family and kids but the sponcered guys go to them all.

Hobby Action (http://www.hobbyaction.com/)
Here's the new layout of Action Raceway. I tried to water it so the jumps were more defined but it was too hard by myself in the 105 temps to keep it wet.
http://users.cableaz.com/~jdembones/RC/hobbyaction/Hobbyaction-track.jpg

[eb4flys]

Tracks looking good J-Bone, lots of hard work there, would love to get to Arizona, prehaps on the next trip we will get a flight there and have a look, which reminds me i met a fantastic girl from Arizona when i was in Vegas one time.....man she was cute..dream dream dream

[Turboduck]

:eek: That track is huge!

[TucsonRevo]

i love the new HA layout. thanks for the advicce. i will use the masking tape.i dont think i am using the s pipe thing mine looks like a L.

i love the bottom end right now. the track i am running is miniscule. for 1/18s is what it looks like:D lol i will need it. i guess if not i will find out tooooday. it is my fist race!!!!!!! i am xcited even though it is hobbytown.

i guess i will have to use trial and error for tires, since most of (not all ) of the people in the buggy class seem to be running stock tires:confused:

i am worried. i lost my transmitter and am praying it is in the carr when my dad gets back. keep your fingers crossed for me

im not quite sure i understand about the brake bias thing so i will try that later. i will also switch to 4Dwt shock oil. i noticed everyone is running lighter weight oil in the back. why is that????

[supralative]

[QUOTE=J_Bone]Superlative,
What new parts have you installed? Was it just the RX? What new Radio was it again? Sorry, just got up...lolQUOTE]

New Futaba 3PM with the R133F receiver, Airtronics 95348 servos for throttle and steering, bypassed the switch and ran a straight pigtail from the receiver to the battery for easy disconnect and recharge, and ran the failsafe inside the receiver box this time. Tried a few different wiringways and it still glitches at WOT. I dont think its the switch at all. This stuff really sucks!!!! :mad: When the car is off smooth but hey thats the way it should be but when running at WOT only it geeks out bad.

[J_Bone]

[QUOTE=J_Bone]Superlative,
What new parts have you installed? Was it just the RX? What new Radio was it again? Sorry, just got up...lolQUOTE]

New Futaba 3PM with the R133F receiver, Airtronics 95348 servos for throttle and steering, bypassed the switch and ran a straight pigtail from the receiver to the battery for easy disconnect and recharge, and ran the failsafe inside the receiver box this time. Tried a few different wiringways and it still glitches at WOT. I dont think its the switch at all. This stuff really sucks!!!! :mad: When the car is off smooth but hey thats the way it should be but when running at WOT only it geeks out bad.

You try to switch out servo's?? I can't run Hitec's in my T4, only JR's seem to work. But in my buggy I run Hitec servo's and they work fine. Try swithcing one servo at a time. Also check your pipe connections. It the rubber boots are worn and there is metal on metal contact, you might get some engine noise thar will cause glitching it too. Happened on my old T MAxx.
If none of that works, keep the servos in and swap out the RX. This sucks, I know. I've been through it before and I just did one swap out at a time. RX, battery, servo, other servo, failsafe and so on. just go down the line.
Now, can you re-create the glitching with out the enigne running??


eb4flys,
The track is 10-15 minutes away from the airport in Tempe, which Tempe is where Arizona state college is. SO if it's ladies you are looking for, you are in the area!!! lol.

[supralative]

EDIT

[supralative]

[QUOTE=supralative]

You try to switch out servo's?? I can't run Hitec's in my T4, only JR's seem to work. But in my buggy I run Hitec servo's and they work fine. Try swithcing one servo at a time. Also check your pipe connections. It the rubber boots are worn and there is metal on metal contact, you might get some engine noise thar will cause glitching it too. Happened on my old T MAxx.
If none of that works, keep the servos in and swap out the RX. This sucks, I know. I've been through it before and I just did one swap out at a time. RX, battery, servo, other servo, failsafe and so on. just go down the line.
Now, can you re-create the glitching with out the engine runing

engine off no glitch super smooth
no switching out of servos i just got these actually is the first time to run them
i like them alot 200+oz of torque at a pretty quick speed
i can check the pipe connection...it only happens at full WOT when the engine wants to start screaming but it cant cuz of the glitch...so it makes me believe it has something to do with the upper RPM range buzz or vibration
i am gonna look at FM receivers and see what I can swap out there
then down the line but i am gonna try to keep these servos for sure hehee

[J_Bone]

ya, new doesn't always mean good. lol But Airtronics are pretty much good quality stuff!!

It does sound like some kind of metal on metal rubbing creating noise. Check for loose bolts on motor mounts and even checkl to see how the pipe springs are.
Or the brake linkage in the brake actuator arms may be causing a resonance.

[hoopdog]

I am having one heck of a time trying to find a good air filter elbow to replace the S-tube on my buggy. The factory S-tube elbow is creating tuning issues with my WS7 II. Anybody have any ideas on a filter tube? I have tried all 10 of my elbows and none of them allow the filter to sit in the right spot without rubbing the body or causing the filter to smash down on the brake/throt linkage.

How about the Crowd pleaser body or Jconcepts body, do these give you more room for a proper air filter elbow? It seems that the roofline on the crowd pleaser is a bit taller and would allow more room.

Anybody with experience on this subject or any ideas are appreciated!!

[supralative]

J Bone...I wish new was always good...LOL.
I am thinking of selling both my radios the 2PL and the 3PM and getting that DSM Spektrum radio that is coming out for $250...built in DSM is a huge plus!!!
I agree though onthe noise...lower rpm's it is fine...WOT up top...no good. I think its radio to be honest. My buddy is using my old 2PL and his is glitch free...as was I when I was using it.

hoopdog...I think all filters with the prefilter will probably touch the body somewhere. My buddy is running just the regular 90degree bend elbow and it doesnt touch anything linkage wise. I will be switching over to this set up shortly also.

[hoopdog]

Thanks Supralative, I have the reg 90 deg elbow and after the stock body is pinned down it actually kinks the elbow,, once you switch on the radio and pull/push the trigger a couple times it drags the prefilter off of the cage, exposing the final filter,,so none of that is good and I will have to find something else to fix the problem.

Anybody have any problems with using the PCR engine mounts with a RB motor? I couldn't get mine to fit correctly. After I mount the engine to the PCR mounts I cant get the holes on the bottom to line up with the holes on the lowered engine mounting plates (OFN19234). It says on the ofna site that the mounts will fit a Nova based motor,,I dunno, probably my mistake in thinking that the RB would line up since Novarossi makes the motor for RB. The problem being that Novarossi builds the engine to RB specs, and the specs being different,,DOH!! :eek:

[J_Bone]

hoopdog,
I use the stock OS filter and it fit good under my J-concepts body. It does rub if I don't have it just perfect, nature of the Buggy...get as close of tolerance as possible.


Superlative,
That sounds like a good radio! But I don't like JR radio (fit, not performance!!) so I will get the spektrum for my M8. My buddies love the JR's and are getting that same radio when it comes out. For the price you can't go wrong.




Well I raced last night and it just was NOT a good day for my buggy. I got a 3rd in the first heat, but then in the second heat I got like 5th and was 30 seconds slower so I ended up qualifying 3rd in the B main.
In the B main I was leading when some other guy crossed the track and crashed me. Then when the marshal placed my buggy down he placed this guy next to me, which he was a whole strait behind...aaarrggg. Well the next corner he took me out again while the marshal took a while to get me back up and when he threw my buggy down it landed on its side and rolled over on the top. Then he walks back to his spot while I sit there upside down. Finally he realized he didn't get me back up he runs over to turn me over and he points me the wrong way on the track....What the #@$% ??? So now I was way behind from the leaders and knowing I'm better than them, I started to push too hard and crashing myself. I finished 5th in the B main which I wasn't to happy about. But oh well.

I also raced my AE RC10 GT, which I TQ'ed and won. For the main they put us in with Monster Trucks and I Won the Stadium truck class but I almost wont the whole race against the Monsters. It came down the last rhythm section and I over jumped the second part and hit my nose in it to slow my momentum and he won. But it was that close to a Raced prepped Revo. SO it all wasn't to bad..

[TucsonRevo]

well first race night was fun......at least
they fooled me and they changed the track layout. even more resembling a 1/18th scale track.

first heat
way too rich (wierd, it was perfect the other day) i popped my left front driveshaft out halfway through the first lap of practice:mad:

second heat
tightened ball cups
and leaned out more. top end was perfect, bottom a little rich and i never should have touched the mid-range needle. finished tho.

main.
i finished with no problems, a better tune and i had a great time getting my a$$ kicked. lol

i need to figure out where the stock midrange needle setting s are.

[hoopdog]

Thanks J-bone,,forgot I had a big OS filter on my CVR 18, that one did the trick, just got done running the buggy a bit to try it out and it ran fine with plenty of power and snap. After trying a gazillion different combos with all of the filters and elbows I have, that one fit the stock body the best without crunching the elbow or smashing down on the linkage or pushing the body up into a crooked fashion.
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXFFA5&P=0
I ditched the o-ring attachment and used Z-ties, dont want no dirt sneaking around some loose fitting o-rings and wasting my RB. Also greased the base of the element with some WB grease to stop any dirt from entering around the base, (Moto-X trick) Had to grease my YZ-250 filter good or that High Mojave desert sand would eat cylinders.



Supralative, the pics of you and your buddys buggys (say that 5 times fast) the red white and blue painted,,is that a crowd pleaser body? anybody?

Congrats on the Racing TucsonRevo!!

[supralative]

Supralative, the pics of you and your buddys buggys (say that 5 times fast) the red white and blue painted,,is that a crowd pleaser body? anybody?

I believe its a bady from the 9.5 models, possibly the X1 also since they share similiar stuff.

I think he might be selling the body hehehhee.

[J_Bone]

hoopdog,
That is the same one I use and I zip tie it and use grease on the ends of the filter like my YZF 450 (just sold) too.


TucsonRevo,
As long as you had fun, that's what it's about!!

[hoopdog]

hoopdog,
That is the same one I use and I zip tie it and use grease on the ends of the filter like my YZF 450 (just sold) too.


TucsonRevo,
As long as you had fun, that's what it's about!!

Yep, I had to sell the YZ due to the fact that it was riding me more than I was riding it,,LOL Had enough of that thing kicking me off and kicking my A$$, breaking bones,,tearing out Kneecaps and ripping out rotator cuffs,,but it was fun while it lasted (12+ yrs). I have relegated myself to a Polaris 450 4X4 quad and mud/snow running with it, and of course my RC hobby that I have messed with since the age of 10.


I really like the swoop to the Jconcepts body,,probably will go with that one.
Back to searching for airtronics gearsets.

[RobWis]

I will be purchasing a Hyper 7 PBS RTR. It will be for yard-games/some track. Can anyone recomnd a fair priced steering servo??

Thanks

[hoopdog]

RobWis, what would be your price range?

[supralative]

OH YEA!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
switched radios back to the old one and let my buddy try the new one
all is good

wierd though huh????

looks like we will be doing our frist race this weekend...wish us luck cuz we are gonna get smoked...LOL

[J_Bone]

Good to hear you are back up and running!!

Have fun racing!! That's what it's all about. Even a bad day racing is fun. Frustrating when you are in a hurry, but I wouldn't trade it!! Like my last buggy race, it was a nightmare. LOL
Let us know how you did.

[supralative]

me too hehehe
might not be able to race
we might have to install a few items to a customer's Supra this Friday and Saturday

question though
I am running McCoy MC8 plugs in my Hyper 21
got some OS8 plugs but they are shorter
what do you guys run along with what engine too
is it ok to run these i know they wont hit the piston for sure but being such a far gap it might loose fire and so forth

[TucsonRevo]

thanks for the support guys. it was too rich cuz we tuned it at like 3:30 and it was 110 with the concreate being 150-160. i use the os 8 and to me its great so far with the stock engine. goodluck racing

[J_Bone]

Superlative,
I have found the McCoy 8 works better in the Hyper than the OS 8. It is shorter and that gives you a bigger compression area which is more suited for 30% Nitro. Even then the OS isn't the best for the Hyper. It will run, not at it's best.

I use OS 8's, but I have OS engines. In my Hyper it's McCoy 8's.

[Ball Racing]

Take the head off,
put a plug in and see where it seats in.
You want no threads showing, this keeps away hot spots, and improves flow, and burn pattern..

You may need a add a washer, or change the type plug, you have been using.

Thats why the "turbo" plug is so great, it seats in the same place every time,
it sets fluch in the combustion shamber for great flow, and burn rate.

and with the taper cut, there are no threads there to hinder performance..

[supralative]

thanks guys
great info

my buddy was jumping his infront of my house and bent the chassis...LOL
bent the rear brace in half almost hehehe and it was the upgraded PCR one..i think it was weaker than stock but lighter hehehe. body wouldnt even fit anymore cuz the chassis was bent so bad hehehhe
it was sailing about 50ft easy wish i could get some pics for you guys but my camera is so slow and getting good action shots hehehe

[J_Bone]

OMG..I've tumbled mine all over. I bent my front shock mount and shock shaft. But that's it!!

Well I used the Nova cooling head for my last race and bash. I didn't care for it. I'm going back to the stock head.

[badboy2]

anyone tried the piccox3 21?im not satisfied with it...i might put wasp26 on mine

[badboy2]

what gearing is good on a small track?not too much straights..

[badboy2]

I will be purchasing a Hyper 7 PBS RTR. It will be for yard-games/some track. Can anyone recomnd a fair priced steering servo??

Thanks


try balsaproducts blue bird servo http://www.balsapr.com/catalog/Servos/bluebirdStandardServosView.asp?ProductId=U569935
unfortunately its out of stock idk who else carry this product ...i just bought one for me the other week..its pretty good

[Ball Racing]

12 tooth bell ,small track.

[badboy2]

12/47 is that good?

[J_Bone]

Well guys, I sold out to the dark side and got another buggy and it's not an OFNA. Loved my PCR, but it was sacraficed for funds for the next one. Take care and GODSPEED!!
I'll be around!!

[sugs]

Hey guys, I was wondering if one of you with a PCR or Hyper 7 pro could do me a favor. I would like to know the height in mm of the heat sink motor mount, with and without the lower mounting plate. I'm looking to see if it will fit OK in my Storm Pro. I already know that the holes line up perfectly, I just don't know where my flywheel will line up with the Hyper mounts. Thanks for your help!

[supralative]

Well guys, I sold out to the dark side and got another buggy and it's not an OFNA. Loved my PCR, but it was sacraficed for funds for the next one. Take care and GODSPEED!!
I'll be around!!


WWWWWWWWWWWWWWWhaT!!!!
HEHEHEHEHE :eek:
its all good
i am looking into the Jammin X1 CR Pro :D
what did you get mang and yea keep in touch for sure

[J_Bone]

I got a Kyosho 777 sp-1. I wanted to keep te PCR and turn it into a truggy, but I needed extra money to pay for the 777.

Oh ya!! I'll be coming in here and see what's going on.

[superchamp]

Hi All

Its been about 20 years since I last got an RC buggy (Tamiya SuperChamp) and I have finally gotten around to getting another one. After reading through the forum, I decided on the Hyper7 pure competition kit as I thought it was better that I built from scratch to get back into the swing of things. I haven't decided on the motor or radio gear yet. What are your thoughts on the OS V spec, Is this years version significantly better than the previous, or is it just black with a distinctive head? Is it worth the money for a 3PK with HRS?
I doubt I will have the time to devote to racing, but I want quality in my buggy without going overboard.
God this game was cheaper when parents paid the bills!!
Thanks in advance for any advice.

[gotspeed_2000]

Hi All

Its been about 20 years since I last got an RC buggy (Tamiya SuperChamp) and I have finally gotten around to getting another one. After reading through the forum, I decided on the Hyper7 pure competition kit as I thought it was better that I built from scratch to get back into the swing of things. I haven't decided on the motor or radio gear yet. What are your thoughts on the OS V spec, Is this years version significantly better than the previous, or is it just black with a distinctive head? Is it worth the money for a 3PK with HRS?
I doubt I will have the time to devote to racing, but I want quality in my buggy without going overboard.
God this game was cheaper when parents paid the bills!!
Thanks in advance for any advice.


The Ofna kit a good kit to start out with. Come with alot of goodies that other cars don't or would have to pay extra for. The Vspec runs strong, and I've seen a few in action at our track so it's pretty good. The differnce is more than just the head, but you may also want to look at a few other engines as well. RB makes some good engines and the new up and comer is Werks collari. They have 7 Port that I run and it works well. Also, another good choice would be the Werks Picco 7R engine. As for the radio, you might want to consider getting the airtronics M8 transmitter alone. This will usually run around 160 or so. Then get the Spektrum DSM system for it for another 160 and you'll have a radio system that you wont have to worry about glitches or frequency clashes. Also, don't forget that you'll have to get a starter box for this buggy. Get the one from Ofna with the high torque 12 volt motor. Good luck.

[gs_storm2003]

does anyone know if the drive shaft (from center diff to front diff)from a 9.5 will fit the hyper pbs the regular hyper shaft is to short

[superchamp]

Thanks Gotspeed. I have only seen the M8 for $610AUD at shops in Sydney (Australia).But that did include servos. I will look around for the Werks and see how it is priced here.

[Turboduck]

I just recently got a hyper 7 and am trying to start it with my duratrax dual 550 motor 1/10th scale starter box. i havent had very good luck gettin that baby to turn over before my batteries (pretty old... like 4-5 years old tower hobbies 1500's) die. Any suggestions, i'm okay with the obvious ones. First off, if done right, it should handle this right? its a .21 hyper engine

[gotspeed_2000]

Thanks Gotspeed. I have only seen the M8 for $610AUD at shops in Sydney (Australia).But that did include servos. I will look around for the Werks and see how it is priced here.

Try and check out with the hobby stores. They might even give you a good price since the new M11 just came out. If you get the radio alone, don't forget about the DSM system. Keep in mind also that with the DSM system, you have to use a rechargeable receiver pack. Also, you might want to check out Stormer hobbies or Tower hobbies too since they have airtronics and most likely would be willing to ship to you. Be sure to check on the shipping charges as well. Good luck.

[gotspeed_2000]

I just recently got a hyper 7 and am trying to start it with my duratrax dual 550 motor 1/10th scale starter box. i havent had very good luck gettin that baby to turn over before my batteries (pretty old... like 4-5 years old tower hobbies 1500's) die. Any suggestions, i'm okay with the obvious ones. First off, if done right, it should handle this right? its a .21 hyper engine

The starter box you have may need new batteries and the motors might benefit from some cleaning. Spray some electric motor cleaner into the motors and then turn it on and start it for a few short burst then rinse it out again using the motor spray. Changing the batteries might also help since the ones you are using are fairly old. You might want to make some clips so that you can use a 12 volt battery and see if you are able to start it then. Also, when you set up the box, you would want it to start to spin up and reach max RPM's before the flywheel hits the starter wheel. This will help it turn over. If all this fails, then maybe it's time to pick up a new starter box. Ofna makes one with a high torque 12 volt motor that turns over most engines fairly well. Good luck.

[Turboduck]

I realized it's hard as hell to start a motor in the dark on a starter box with no allignment screws :-P Today i went outside with the sun shining... no problem, I will probably pick up some new batteries though. This morning was the first time running my Hyper 7...... this thing is going to be sick! can't wait to get some track time.

[supralative]

Racing is a blast!!!!
Didnt do o well in the Heats but when the Main came down I held on to 2nd for about half the race and faded back to 5th in the end. Dropped to 3rd got it back in the pits and battled it out for a bit then us started losing concentration and ended up 5th.

Not to bad for my first race ever.

Now got to clean up the buggy:(.

[J_Bone]

NICE!! It's all about the fun!! Glad to hear you had a good time. As long as you have no car troubles and do the best you can, it's fun no matter how well you do.
Cleaning is the only bad part...lol

[supralative]

heck yea J Bone it was fun
got to get a personal transponder though its no fun going back and forth hehehe

started out running 50's as my best and got down to a 41sec pass
the good guys are doing mid 30's so i was pretty stoked for a first timer hehehe

[c0sie]

hey guys. im c0sie, and your resident n00b of the day..as far as 1/8ths go.

ive got a hyper 7 which ive kinda built myself. im running normal - spider - normal as far as diffs go, and blue springs all round.

im just a measily basher who wants to get into racing and am hoping someone can give me a 'ball-park' figure for diff oils, and shock oil weights just to get me going along smoothly.

anyon able to help out??

thanks in advance,

c0s

[J_Bone]

hey guys. im c0sie, and your resident n00b of the day..as far as 1/8ths go.

ive got a hyper 7 which ive kinda built myself. im running normal - spider - normal as far as diffs go, and blue springs all round.

im just a measily basher who wants to get into racing and am hoping someone can give me a 'ball-park' figure for diff oils, and shock oil weights just to get me going along smoothly.

anyon able to help out??

thanks in advance,

c0s

Hey welcome!
Diff oils. I ran a 5-7spider-1 , you can try that even though you have normal diffs all around. Just watch how it transfer the weight fornt to back.
Shock oil, I ran Front 45 wt. and rear 35wt. The rear seemed a bit soft while the front was ok. so you can try a 45 - 40 and go from there. It's just a starting point and you can adjust as needed and as you wish.

Good luck!!

[c0sie]

Hey welcome!
Diff oils. I ran a 5-7spider-1 , you can try that even though you have normal diffs all around. Just watch how it transfer the weight fornt to back.
Shock oil, I ran Front 45 wt. and rear 35wt. The rear seemed a bit soft while the front was ok. so you can try a 45 - 40 and go from there. It's just a starting point and you can adjust as needed and as you wish.

Good luck!!
J Bone,

hey man, thanks for the reply! ill give that a try as soon as my laydown servo tray arrives and will no doubt be back picking your brains again :)

thanks!

[supralative]

i am running 3-5-1 fluid with normal-spider-normal diffs
55wt in front with Kyosho blue springs and 45wt in rear with Kyosho blue springs
ride height is set to about level on the universals
i might go up a bit in the back diff hopefully it will help bring the rear end around a bit

i will be running 9.5 style shocks with a lighter weight oil all round for more bumpy tracks

i might possibly bump the current shocks to 60wt up front and 50wt in rear

[c0sie]

hey guys. it turns out i havent got a centre spider diff. the bloke who sold me the car said it did, when in fact it has a normal centre diff with the four gears, and to topit all off, the internal gears are kanckered :mad:

my question though is this. do i:

just replce the internals and run a std 4-bevel-gear centre diff?
buy s centre spider and run that?
buy a centre torsen and run that?

i know spider and torsen are meant to be very good diffs, but why? can someone please explin qickly, but in easy terms lol, what the differences are between the 3 types of diff please?

bear in mind im not currently racing. i may do next year but for the time being this will be a 'racing against a few friends playfully' basher.

thanks as always :)

[Grant Tokumi]

I haven't been here a while. I'm slowly getting the Hyper 7 back into shape. Started by buying a couple 12volt gel cel
float charger (http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=42292) from Harbor Freight. Soldered a 12 awg jumper cable together so I can easily hook up a 12v gel cel from another starterbox to my ofna box if need be. Bought a old school JR 756 radio from ebay to match my RC10GTs 756 controller. Looking for a JR-4131 coreless throttle servo today at the LHS, and hopefully win a spare on ebay.

But now the question. I'm looking for a good way to mount a throttle return spring on my Hyper 7. I preach the importance of it all the time in other threads, but admit I haven't installed one yet in this Hyper 7. :) For those who have installed a TRS, can you post some pictures of its installation? I'd like to hook it right onto the engines throttle arm ball instead of on the servo linkage, but can't find a good method so far to accomplish that.

Thanks

[Grant Tokumi]

I guess I beat myself to it on the TRS. I found whats called a "stand-off" at the electronics store. Its made of aluminum, one side is threaded female 8-32, and the other side is threaded male 8-32. So i used a 1" tall standoff and a 0.5" tall standoff (a 1" by itself wasn't quite tall enough) to make a mount as shown in the lower right picture. Wrapped the spring around the top and added a 8-32 lock nut just to keep the spring from sliding off the top.

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/ofnatrs.jpg

Built it today. Works good with my coreless servo. The spring I used in the picture is not ideal since it is really a compression spring, not a tension spring. Its funtional and all, but its tight in tension and strains the servo a little bit. But thats the best one that worked out of around 4 different types of springs I bought at Home Depot. Now that I know what I need, I have to order the correct tension spring or try another hardware store like Lowes.

On a side note, I bought the compression spring thinking maybe the way to go was to try and "push" the carb closed with a compression spring rather than try and squeeze a tension spring in there to "pull" the carb closed. But I ended up with this setup instead.

I'm still curious on how all of you have mounted TRS on your Hyper 7s, so post your TRS pictures if you have them.

[Turboduck]

tada

[Turboduck]

here's a pic of a used hyper 7 i recently bought. The paint job is nothing to brag about, that's why i've bought a new body and wing to make this baby look way sick... she runs like a charm. i'll post pics of my new paint job and all that later this week

[Ball Racing]

I just use the sportwerks return spring that fits on the carb body.

[eb4flys]

hey guys, im back again, so the question on diffs, i would start with a standard diff in the center, unless you are at a pretty good level you wont notice the difference with a spider, as for torsen save your money and invest in some spares as for diff oil a good starting point as j-bone said is 5 front 7 center and 1 at the rear, as you improve more let us know you track conditions and we can guide you in the right directions, if you need any explainations on what the different oils and springs/ or toe in or out will do check out my SITE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/) and go to the set up tips and tricks page, or just ask away, as i am spending alot of time racing international events i dont get on here all the time but promise to answer any questions as soon as i can

J-bone hows the racing going?

[c0sie]

hey guys, im back again, so the question on diffs, i would start with a standard diff in the center, unless you are at a pretty good level you wont notice the difference with a spider, as for torsen save your money and invest in some spares as for diff oil a good starting point as j-bone said is 5 front 7 center and 1 at the rear, as you improve more let us know you track conditions and we can guide you in the right directions, if you need any explainations on what the different oils and springs/ or toe in or out will do check out my SITE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/) and go to the set up tips and tricks page, or just ask away, as i am spending alot of time racing international events i dont get on here all the time but promise to answer any questions as soon as i can

J-bone hows the racing going?

thanks for your help, much appreciated :)

[Grant Tokumi]

I just use the sportwerks return spring that fits on the carb body.

Can someone post a picture of one of these installed and/or by itself? I'm kind of curious to see how it works. Sounds like a good way to go and simple to add. Thanks Ball Racing. I found a post on it on this link:
http://www.rc-racing.com/cgi-bin/backtalk/abalone/read?conf=offroad6&csel=&isel=364,365-$&rsel=new&noskip=1

quote from that link:
"Sportwerks makes a throttle return spring that fits on most .21 slide
carbs. I have started using those. It connects the slide to the base
of the high speed needle assembly and seems to work very well. It also
stays on the engine and doesn't get in the way when you pull the
engine out of the car. The part number is SWK 3233. I never used a
throttle return spring before finding these."


I found a link to a site selling it at $2.49 but no picture
http://www.horizonhobby.com/Shop/ByBrand/BrandDetail.aspx?OverallBrandID=SWK&CatID=CS&SearchType=Standard&SortBy=SellingPrice&SortDirection=ASC

Turboduck's method is straight forward too. Although the spring does connect to the servo arm instead of right to the carb so that introduces some situations open for runaway (ball cup pops off, throttle arms break or pops off the servo when you forget to screws the arm onto the servo, etc.).

[elkhorn98]

What does everyone think of the Hyper TQ Sport Kit? Is it the same as the Hyper 7 RTR or Hyper 7 Pro RTR? I have seen it listed both ways. I have seen it for $239. so for about $500 total I can get the kit, a decent radio, and engine. Thanks.

[supralative]

RTR radios are not that good and the servos are really not that good
TQ Sport is for people that like the Hyper 7 already but want their own radio, servo, and engine set up. Sometimes they already have those items and just need the buggy and not all the extra stuff as listed.
I bought a RTR to start, but I have changed it alot. Radio set up, pipes, shock mounts, CVD's in center and rear, shock set up, and other items. Knowing what I know now, I will buy a kit next time and add whatever items I like.

Only plus I see in the RTR is the starter box and ignitor hehehee but those are cheap.

[c0sie]

[n00b question]

whats the BEST BEST airfilter you can buy for buggys???

preferably one i can get on ebay though, cos its easier for me to get it delivered to the uk that way.

thanks :)

[/n00b question]

[supralative]

i just run the factory filters they sell on ebay and anywhere else
i use my old 2 stroke foam filter oil and have about 3 ready on hand
i run the pre filter around those

[Turboduck]

after going to the open track tonight, and not being able to tune my engine correctly (went from 0 humidity and 110 degree outside temp to 40% humidity and 85 degree weather in 4 days) i was just about getting it tuned right... when i went on the abandoned old track that sits to the side of the new one... was working it out.. then wam! ..... the piping was taken off the track but the spikes remained....

[Turboduck]

i havent been able to race this thing yet! : (

[Grant Tokumi]

ittai ne (that hurts doesn't it)

[Turboduck]

can you guys help me out, i didnt get a manual to come with my car so im having a hard time verifying what parts i need. I know I need a new hinge pin for that side, and the brace that goes in front of the diff (the thing that is broken) and possibly a new purple back brace. Does anyone have links to a manual (that's better then the crap on ofna's site) or some part numbers for me? where would you buy replacement parts online?

[Grant Tokumi]

I scanned 2 pages in my manual
page 12 (http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/ofnapg12.jpg)
page 14 (http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/ofnapg12.jpg)

As far as ordering online, I'd start here:
http://www.nitrohouse.com/ofna_hyper_7.htm

[Grant Tokumi]

For some reason, the part # on my manual don't seem to match the Nitrohouse part #.

This page also has parts blowups that might have consistant part #s.
http://www.nitrohouse.com/parts,_hyper_7.htm

On a side note, I kind of went through the same exercise a while back when I busted my front end. My solution was to go on ebay, found the parts/upgrades that I needed. And then I went ahead and looked for and won another auction for a whole new Hyper 7 that was stripped to be just a roller. I took that apart and now use it for spare parts.

[c0sie]

what version of the hyper 7 are you after the manual for??

[Turboduck]

i appreciate all the help... it is very nice of ya. My hyper 7 (bought used) seems to be a lil bit of everything. I'd say it's PBS more so than anything else.

[Turboduck]

nevermind, i found the info :)

[c0sie]

Hey guys, need a lil more help.

can someone tell me what the handling differences are between the 19', 20' and 22' c-hubs please???

thanks!

[Grant Tokumi]

I just use the sportwerks return spring that fits on the carb body.
Thanks for the help Ball Racing. I now have a TRS based on the Sportswerks design. Works great!

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/trs8th01.jpg


http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/trs8th02.jpg

[gotspeed_2000]

Grant, just be sure to keep an eye on the slide carb boot. The spring may rub a hole through the carb boot and that could ruin the slide. Getting ready for racing tomorrow. Good luck.

[Grant Tokumi]

I'll keep an eye out on the carb boot. I am little bummed because I did manage to poke a little hole in it already with the spring end as I was installing it. Its not visible so hopefully dirt won't get in through there.

I hit the track for some racing too. Yesterday, right after I posted that picture. Stopped by the track at 3pm and it was empty, gates locked. Found out at the LHS that racing was at 7pm, so I headed to another track (onroad) which was always open. Went through 5 tanks there and wasted my stock tires on that asphalt. I was very rusty in the driving department so those 5 tanks helped me get my game back together. I could have went home satisfied at that point, but I decided to go back to the offroad track to see what was going on. Gates were now open, a bunch of people there. I thought might as well stick around for the race.

After having this buggy for around 10 months, this was the first time I got to race an 8th scale. What a blast! 8 people in the 8th scale class and I came in 5th. I thought I did better but there were some excellent racers in that class so I guess thats around right. I was just thrilled that I could complete all 2 qualifiers and the main without breaking and/or flaming out. That to me was a victory on its own. I forgot how fun it was to race, flying down the straight neck and neck, trading inside/outside in the turns. Much more stable than my 10th scale and I could control my lines better. Now I just have to get used to the track since it was the first time I ran on that layout.

If there was any mishaps, I noticed after the 2nd that I had lost that wire that holds the exhaust in place. So I had to replace that with my own wire. I think the manifold gasket at the engine might be torn too. And my starter box seemed pretty weak at times. Sometimes I had to loosen the glow plug to get the engine turning.

[Grant Tokumi]

Hey guys, need a lil more help.

can someone tell me what the handling differences are between the 19', 20' and 22' c-hubs please???

thanks!
I not 100% sure on this, but I believe the larger the degrees, the more the car wants to track straight (even in the turns).

[J_Bone]

Hey guys, need a lil more help.

can someone tell me what the handling differences are between the 19', 20' and 22' c-hubs please???

thanks!
It's the angle of each hub. the less angle (19') will have a quicker turn in than a 22' hub. But you will lose on power steering. So a 20' or 22' is preferred. You will get tighter turning radius with C-hubs too.

[J_Bone]

J-bone hows the racing going?

It's going slow. I've only been racing my 1/10 2WD Stadium Truck (RC10 GT 4). I've sold my Hyper and got a Kyosho SP-1. But it will be built soon.
Man, Your site rocks! Very good! I like the videos and want to try some of that grass racing. Looks fun. Here in the States we got tons of jumps and bumps. Kinda to ruff for the Hyper at my local track. It was getting bounced around no matter what shock oil/sping/setup I tried. But it's still a good buggy. My buddy bought it and I will help him out.

later..

[Turboduck]

hey guys, I have the PPS version of the hyper, and since my accident, I have decided to strip down everything and take a look at it, I've noticed the steering system seems to be somewhat stiff. Is this a usual thing? I'm use to my 1/10th scale gas truck where basically everything is really smooth and fast, however on my car it feels real... "heavy" and slow, what should i do to free up the binding and make things smoother?

[J_Bone]

hey guys, I have the PPS version of the hyper, and since my accident, I have decided to strip down everything and take a look at it, I've noticed the steering system seems to be somewhat stiff. Is this a usual thing? I'm use to my 1/10th scale gas truck where basically everything is really smooth and fast, however on my car it feels real... "heavy" and slow, what should i do to free up the binding and make things smoother?

PBS? If so, the outter pillow ball cups might be to tight. It happens a lot. I had mine just a hair loose. Just enough to maybe fit a hair in it. You don't want dirt getting in the balls and cups and grind them up. So, not to loose or to tight.

[Grant Tokumi]

PBS? If so, the outter pillow ball cups might be to tight. It happens a lot. I had mine just a hair loose. Just enough to maybe fit a hair in it. You don't want dirt getting in the balls and cups and grind them up. So, not to loose or to tight.
I found the samething. My pillow balls are loose enough that there is even a little play in it. Thats the only I could get the steering to not bind up. That and a nice strong steering servo.

[Turboduck]

Thanks for the lil tip, that's exactly what the problem was, they were set too tight and were essentially binding up the steering. case closed. :D

[supralative]

Check out the new set up!!
New top plate, chassis braces, and of course engine and pipe.
SH .21 with Sportwerks 1pc 053 pipe in black. Just got through running the 3rd tank through it. Got a few more after work tomorrow then...slowly starting getting on it. Break-in tires are already on and ready to get to work.
I changed out the front shocks to X1/9.5 version shocks and will do so on the back tomorrow also. Need to go back in and change the shock weight and spring combo.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/SH2.jpg

[Turboduck]

sweet

[c0sie]

http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/1197/hyper70052qk.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70052qk.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/9044/hyper70066cc.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70066cc.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/2230/hyper70070te.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70070te.jpg)
http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/7425/hyper70082lc.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70082lc.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/2405/hyper70093tv.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70093tv.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/6672/hyper70109ry.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70109ry.jpg)
http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/8981/hyper70116yk.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70116yk.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/7759/hyper70123jn.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70123jn.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/3346/hyper70134rl.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70134rl.jpg)
http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/3103/hyper70147jd.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70147jd.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/7759/hyper70153qk.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70153qk.jpg)http://img347.imageshack.us/img347/4804/hyper70162oj.th.jpg (http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70162oj.jpg)

[GOT]
hard anodised alloy steering knuckles
front and rear CVD's
20' c-hubs
front and rear anti roll bars
adjustable turnbuckles
carbon brake and steering covers
front and rear alloy chassis braces
quad brakes
99% of screws in stainless steel
4mm hard anodised 7075 CNC'd chassis
7075 CNC'd 'Pro' front and rear shock towers
hyper .21 4-port (simple..yet effective lol)
HongNor 056 tuned pipe
95% new parts through out

[GETTING]
Carbon laydown servo tray
HS645MG steering servo
hard anodised alloy rear hub carriers
front torsen diff
new engine (when i finally get a job!)
Angled Spikes
'Pro' hard anodised shocks front and rear.

umm..i think thats it lol

**breaking news**..just bought a front torsen diff lol..

hope you all like.. :)

[Hessian1427]

Looking for some advice. I want to race 1/8 buggies on a local level, and I don't need to have the best buggy (Just not the worst) I like the Hyper 7 TQ kit, but what do you all think of it? I was also was wondering what I should get in terms of the:
Radio and servos
Starter box ( that will also work on an NTC3+)
engine
hopups for that kit.

[c0sie]

hey guys,,im currently running 5-7-1 in my diffs (std 4 bevel geared) but have just bought a torsen for the front.

what would you recommend oil wise now to go in that torsen? and will running the torsen mean ill have to change oils in the centre and rear diffs?

cheers for all your help so far :)

[J_Bone]

hey guys,,im currently running 5-7-1 in my diffs (std 4 bevel geared) but have just bought a torsen for the front.

what would you recommend oil wise now to go in that torsen? and will running the torsen mean ill have to change oils in the centre and rear diffs?

cheers for all your help so far :)
Torsen's have there own oil/grease. Don't use regular diff oil. It shouldn't affect the others too much. But you can balance it out more by changing the center diff oil if it's too much for the front.

[davetexas22]

I was thinking about getting a new buggy but could not decide between the Hyper 7 PBS rtr or the Jammin 1 rtr.

[J_Bone]

I was thinking about getting a new buggy but could not decide between the Hyper 7 PBS rtr or the Jammin 1 rtr.

Depends on what you want to do....
Race.- Jammin all the way.
Bash - I would spend less and get the Hyper.

The Funny thing is the Hyper has the more race engine, but the chassis of the Jammin better for racing. You do get more for your money with the Hyper RTR.

[Ball Racing]

You get roto start and a car carrying case, and a rechargable receiver pack with the jammin rtr...
you get the "good" shocks on the jammin rtr also.

draw back force 26 engine

[davetexas22]

Thanks for the info

[Grant Tokumi]

After having this buggy for around 10 months, this was the first time I got to race an 8th scale. What a blast! 8 people in the 8th scale class and I came in 5th.
Well, tonight was another good night with the Hyper 7. I ended up taking 1ST PLACE out of around 11 racers in 8th scale buggy!

This 8th scale stuff handles GREAT!!!!! I'm actually hitting my lines that I intend to take, as compared to my RC10GT where the squirrliness makes it kind of a hit or miss sometimes. I had some good head to head battles, and also took some crashes, but this Hyper 7 is one strong bugger.

After maybe around 1 gallon through the stock engine (including break in), my glowplug, an OS #8, failed on me while starting for the 2nd qualifier. I had to start the qualifier late because of it. Seems a little early for the glow plug to go. I would hope the glow plugs last longer than 1 gallon. Fortunately, switched the glowplug and the engine was back to reliable as ever. I'll just have to watch for when it might fail again. Does a glow plug lifespan of 1 gallon sound around right for the stock Hyper 7 engine?

[Ball Racing]

If you have a powerful tune in the engine you may get 1/2 gallon on a plug.

If you get over gallon out of a plug you are not getting all the power from your engine.....

[badboy2]

i kno this will sound dumb but which is the steering brace?is it the part where the tierods are screwed?

[Grant Tokumi]

If you have a powerful tune in the engine you may get 1/2 gallon on a plug.

If you get over gallon out of a plug you are not getting all the power from your engine.....
1/2 a gallon??!! Wow. I'm used to multiple gallons through my OS .12 before a glowplug failure. Thanks for the heads up. I'll be keeping an eye after my next half gallon. My tune was powerful enough to pull some wheelies every so often in the straights and keep up with the rest of the pack so I'm not complaining one bit about this stock engine. :)

[Grant Tokumi]

i kno this will sound dumb but which is the steering brace?is it the part where the tierods are screwed?

If I'm not mistaken, the steering brace is the top plate that is shown in this picture below made out of what appears to be carbon fiber and held down by the 5 screws and purple washers.
http://img347.imageshack.us/my.php?image=hyper70109ry.jpg

[c0sie]

please help me settle a bet with a friend over the .21 hyper engines.

can you tel me what the differences are between he 8-port hyper .21 and the Pro verison please?

is the pro loaded with thicker and stronger parts?? or is it a 8 port hyper .21 with a pretty black paint job and a boost chamber?

thanks!

[Ball Racing]

Hpyer 8 port does not have as larger of a crank shaft and the 8 port Race.
The 8 port race has a differnt color, and differnt head.
Same sleeve in both.
Same piston
Same rod

[supralative]

Got a couple of new bodies painted.
Still need to get a set of green wheels, yellow wheels, green wing, and a yellow wing. Had to use a buddies buggy as a test vehicle.

http://members.cox.net/hyperspeedmotorsports/Hyper7s9.jpg
http://members.cox.net/hyperspeedmotorsports/Hyper7s8.jpg
http://members.cox.net/hyperspeedmotorsports/Hyper7s10.jpg
http://members.cox.net/hyperspeedmotorsports/Hyper7s13.jpg
http://members.cox.net/hyperspeedmotorsports/Hyper7s15.jpg

[Grant Tokumi]

very nice bodies!. I like the green flames with the green wheels. Looks very Kyosho MPxxxxish. And how the flames go into the windows too.

[Grant Tokumi]

So who's going racing or bashing this weekend? I'll be heading out to the track in around an hour for another night of racing.

Spent the morning brainstorming ways to bungee my car to the starter box for easy 1 handed carrying. I ended up adding these side rails to the box.

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/startboxsiderails01.jpg
http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/startboxsiderails02.jpg

Its funny that since this Hyper 7 seems to be so good already without much modifications, and I haven't had to fix anything recently, I've been taking out my wrenching cravings and energy on customizing the accessories. :)

[J_Bone]

oh, never mind...lol. With all the pictures I dind't read the post.. :confused:

[Racin Rev]

as my 1-2yr old son used to say when he picked up something too heavy for him to carry (he forgot that he could put it down) "too big, too big!". try to make your pics smaller please.

[Grant Tokumi]

as my 1-2yr old son used to say when he picked up something too heavy for him to carry (he forgot that he could put it down) "too big, too big!". try to make your pics smaller please.
Pictures have been resized per request. Can't speak to Superlatives pics though. They do go off my screen a bit, but since its mostly 2 cars in each picture, I like it that size so I can see more detail.

Well, another good night of racing. Came in 2nd this time out of 9 racers. Not too shabby. Didn't break anything again on the car. However, after a practice round, I found a small puddle of fuel on my truck bed. So the fuel bottle broke, found a small hair line crack in the side. Good thing I had a spare.

Now that I'm getting comfortable with this Hyper 7, I can feel that I'm pushing some. May try some heavier oil in the rears. I believe I have 30 wt at all 4 corners right now. I'm thinking of trying around 40 or 50 wt in the rears. I'm using Kyosho light blue springs all around and stock pistons. Diff oils are 5K-7K-1K (front-center-rear).

No one else running this weekend?

[c0sie]

grant tokumi,

over here in england alot of the racers have the same kind of set up as you, but with long carrying handles (like you would find on a normal carrybag,rucksack etc) that coould be bolted to the rails you have made, therefore you can carry your hyper level, rather than by the starterbox handle. hth?

[Grant Tokumi]

I see. Interesting idea. Not sure if I have a need for a shoulder strap, but I'll keep it in the back of my mind if the need shall come. Maybe shoulder straps to make it like a backpack? :) I have considered strapping my monster truck to my backpack before for some rockcrawling opportunities when I go hiking. hahaha.

[c0sie]

not shoulder straps, more of a 'handbag' style carrying arrangement?
shopping carrier bag etc etc? hth :)

[Grant Tokumi]

oh oh oh. I see what you are saying now. Hmmm. That is a good way to carry it, and might actually be useful to me. Thanks.

[supralative]

Sorry about the large size hehehee
Didnt switch back to the smaller size but here the finals of my green body with wing and new wheels. I will be using the drip paint for a later buggy.
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Green1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Green3.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/Hyper7Green6.jpg

[supralative]

What happen to the Hyper7 guys????? Where is everyone at???
I took first in my race in Dallas hehehe...battle of attrition but I came out on top.

Kyosho wings are very flimsy though...LOL...gonna stick with a Proline or the factory Ofna stuff from now on.
C-Hub will be on shortly for the front half of the buggy and possibly the back half...not sure yet.

[Grant Tokumi]

Well, I'm still around. Congrats on your 1st place finish. I didn't know you raced it. What kind of engine and servos are you running in it?

[J_Bone]

Im still around...lol I just lurk since I don't have the Hyper any more.

[supralative]

SH.21 Pro Just put a XTM cooling head on it to help it out...drop the temps a but so I can lean it out for some more punch and longer run times
Airtronics 94358 on both ends
C Hub very shortly so it will turn alot better
probably going to buy some Kyosho shocks also and sell these X1 shocks

[Grant Tokumi]

C-hubs are supposed to turn better than pillow ball system? I was unaware of that. Why is C-hub better?

[supralative]

I cant tell you the ins and outs of it...I can just say from personal experience it does. I am not sure why though.
It has been a general consensus among the Hyper7 crew since I started researching more. I used to think pillowball as better but I didnt know back then.

[Grant Tokumi]

"Personal experience" meaning on another vehicle I assume? As you say, you have not replaced your Hyper 7 PBS with C-hub yet. I'd like to know more about PBS vs C-hub. I'll have to search in this thread a bit.

BTW, you've got some mega servos going on there. Nice! :)

[supralative]

"personal" meaning my buddy did the C-Hub up front on his former PBS and mine hasnt been done yet
i drove both buggies back to back and it was a big difference in making tighter turns
i didnt think it was going to be that big but is was

thanks
i learned the lesson on buying lesser servos already hehehee
from here on out its just mainly trying different engines
so far the .21 SH is great
i might try the .21 OS RG next and finally an RB S5

[Ball Racing]

I don't think you would want to step down to the OS RG..

[nitrohouse]

The c-hub cars turn more because the steering knuckle is able to articulate more. The PBS knuckle can only allow for so much due to its design.

As a rule the PBS is easier to drive, and the c-hub is capable of being faster, but a little more twitchy.

Have Fun...Burn Nitro...

[supralative]

cool nitrohouse over here again hehehe

almost through with the conversion
swap some diffs out and a few other items and its on again racing hehehe

also those running C Hub what hubs are you guys/girls running 17, 19, 22????

[nitrohouse]

I like the 22 degree the best. Lots of on-power steering. And not quite as twitchy...

[supralative]

sounds good
looks like i will switch out the 17's then

i saw that post on the OFNA forum about C Hubs
guess its true about how much throw you have with the higher degree hubs compared to the 17 with that stop

[supralative]

C-Hub swap complete front to back. First run tomorrow with it and 5-7-2 in the diffs front to back. Hope it goes well hehehe.
New XTM cooling head, braces front/back, and carbon top plate.

http://members.cox.net/supralative2/CHub1.jpg
http://members.cox.net/supralative2/CHub2.jpg

[nitrohouse]

Looks good, one sugestion though...On your battery, get away from using zip ties, because they can damage the battery. Use strapping tape (the kind with string in it) its very strong and light weight, and most importantly it won't hurt the battery...

Have Fun...Burn Nitro...

[Grant Tokumi]

How does the use of zip ties damage the battery?

[supralative]

will do nitro
i had been looking at that and have thought about it
i would like to find some heat shrink large enough to go around to use that also

[supralative]

wahoo!!!!!!!!!!!
just placed 2nd
had 1st covered till i wrecked and flamed the engine out
got back in and held on to 2nd...working on the elusive 1st
C-Hub helped out a bunch along with the correct diff fluids in the buggy!!!!!

Racing is addictive hehehheee...