Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0 [Archive] - Page 8

supralative

08-21-2005, 11:43 AM

J-Bone I had bought some Traxxas diff fluid from another LHS and was told it was 3000, 5000, 1000 weight. The bottles said 30K, 50K, and 10K so I asked are you sure this is 3000, 5000, 1000??? He said yes...needless to say i was running 30000 up front, 50000 in center, and 10000 in rear. Car had the tendency to step out alot and push the front end.

Well after all the changes...its easily a whole lot more manageable now. I am thinking of trying to get some Kyosho shocks to put on the buggy. The LHS that I go to and race with and they help me out alot hehehe...owner has them on his 777. Man those things are good and smooth. My shocks dont dampen and rebound nearly as well as his. I will try to rebleed and possibly rebuild one more time to see if I can get some better response out of them...if not hhhmmmm 777 shocks maybe.

I will go out and get some heat shrink wrap and change it out.

Grant Tokumi

08-21-2005, 01:37 PM

Congrats on your 2nd place finish! I guess the C-hubs made a difference.

I went out to a new track last night too. Its an AWESOME track!! Decent size crossover jump and high speed berms all over the place. I was doing good, I qualified for 3rd place out of I think 9 racers. Had some very exciting head to head races. However, the main was a different story. Ironic how the recent discussions revolved around the C-hub and PBS because I think my PBS messed me up in the main. Things were going good, and then around 5 minutes in I noticed my steering started to seem sluggish. And then around certain turns, I seemed to have lost around 50% of my steering, having to go mega wide, and the kid next to me saying "thanks for letting me pass" hahaha. Then my throttle started to get sluggish too, I was barely able to make the jumps because the throttle was so delayed. Eventually, things got so bad, I had to just give up around 7 minutes in. I assumed it was just a dead battery since I did not charge prior to the main. But back at the pits, I turned my steering with my hand, and the steering was all binded up. AAAHHHH!! PBS!!!!! So apparently, my steering binded up, causing the steering servo to overwork, affecting my throttle servo and eventually killed my battery. I still have to take it apart today to see really what happened, but on quick inspection I'm pretty sure its the front right PBS that is binded up somehow. C-hub might be in my near future too.

I took some video, I hope to make a short video for you all to see. None with me in it but I got some fast 8th scale action after I broke.

Grant Tokumi

08-22-2005, 01:55 AM

8/20/05 Outer Limits Raceway
Sandy Valley, Nevada (around 1 hour drive from Las Vegas)

8th scale buggy video:
8th scale buggy (http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/8thscale.wmv)
9 megs, wmv format
~2 minutes

And I might as well link to the 10th scale gas truck video too since I did them both tonight:
10th scale gas truck (http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/10thscale.wmv)
19 meg, wmv format
~4 minutes

Let me know what you think. :) :)

supralative

08-22-2005, 09:57 PM

Sorry about your PBS problems.
I think you will like C-Hub alot better, I know I did.

Nice vid....seems like a pretty fun track.

Grant Tokumi

08-23-2005, 02:16 AM

Glad you liked the video. It is fun to drive on. Only problem is its a bit far of a drive to get to that track. His track layouts usually flow very well like this one. I love the berms. Sometimes its a slower line, and in race situations, I tend to not use most of the berms and take inside line instead. But the particular berm in the video just before the back straight is a very nice one that I think is a faster line since it can shoot you into the back straight at almost top speed already if you take that berm right.

So I went to clean my buggy Sunday and take a closer look at why the steering was binding, and of course there was no binding anymore. GRRR.... I think when I cleaned it at the track before I came home, I must have blew out whatever was binding it up. So now I don't know for sure exactly what caused it. Oh well, I'm still eyeing out the C-hub. I will do my due diligence later on and research the part #s to buy for the front C-hub conversion, but .... if anyone wants to give it up for me and list the part #s needed as listed on a mailorder site like http://www.nitrohouse.com/
feel free. :)

supralative

08-23-2005, 07:17 AM

All you need is
upper arm mount/hinge pinholder, shock tower, upper arms, lower arms, hubs, steering knuckles, top plate, and chassis brace for the front. You can get by with the PBS top plate and chassis brace but the top plate doesnt sit flush on the diff case. The rear, you need the arms and uprights and that is it I think.

Krasi_5000

08-23-2005, 05:40 PM

hey guys,
I have a ntc3 and i've had it for a while. But i've been thinking i need offroad :cool: . My friend just got a Savage 21 yesterday and today we were driving it, jumping it etc and it was extremly fun.
I myself however would rather get a 1/8 buggy...preferably Ofna so thats why im here. I seen alot of videos of buggys but i really can't tell...can they do as much as a savage or other mt. like here are my questions...
1- Would a stock Ofna Ultra LX be able to beat a savage in a Head to Head straight run race? As far as i know bugguys are much faster.
2- What is the buggys jumping ability like landing on ashfault or something hard lol...with his savage we did like a 4-5 jump and it took it and kept going. Can a buggy do this as well ?
3- How rough can the terrain get before the buggy starts NOT being able to go thru. With his savage we mostly went on reletivly smooth things but what if we started getting into ruts and rocks...could a buggy do that? With his savage we we going in grass and sand without ANY trouble. Is this the same for buggy or would the thinner tires be a setback?
4- He can go up curbs...this is the one thing i think i know...a buggy cant?

I may sound like a want a savage because im comparing everything to it...its the only offroad comparison i can do...unless you want me to compare to a ntc3 lol

The terrain here really doesnt get very rough like its all smooth dirt and pretty hard sand occasionally you get some rougher stuff.. But there are good jumps at skateparks/BMX tracks.

Thanks guys i really want to do offroading now...there are also tracks around here i would like to go eventually.

Edit: I found a Ultra GT LX on ebay for $179 usd Buy it Now...is 179 good or bad for it...the guys claims its like new, the buggy DOES look new, he says engine is good? Its with that Force P4 .21...anyone know anything about it?
I can't seem to find many parts for the "GT" model of the ultra. Are the parts interchangable between GT LX, LX comp, lx pro etc???
Thanks again guys

Grant Tokumi

08-24-2005, 07:33 PM

So hows the racing with your ntc3 going? Have you gone since that first time?

1- Would a stock Ofna Ultra LX be able to beat a savage in a Head to Head straight run race? As far as i know bugguys are much faster.
Both will have close to the same top speed, but the buggy will be able to accelerate quicker so the buggy "should" win a drag race.
2- What is the buggys jumping ability like landing on ashfault or something hard lol...with his savage we did like a 4-5 jump and it took it and kept going. Can a buggy do this as well ?
Most buggies are pretty well engineered and can take the beatings that you are referring to. Landing on its feet should be no problem. I can see where if you land upside down from high jumps, there might be the possibility of snagging the front shock tower on the asphalt and bending it since it does protrude out compared to a savage.
3- How rough can the terrain get before the buggy starts NOT being able to go thru. With his savage we mostly went on reletivly smooth things but what if we started getting into ruts and rocks...could a buggy do that? With his savage we we going in grass and sand without ANY trouble. Is this the same for buggy or would the thinner tires be a setback?
I don't think the thinner tires would be an issue, but the lower CG of a buggy and large flat pan chassis might as it rubs the grass and possible high-centering problems. But a buggy has so much power, it can be quite amazing what it can go through.

4- He can go up curbs...this is the one thing i think i know...a buggy cant?
A buggy can climb curbs no problem. Going diagonal is the key. Even a 2wd stadium truck can climb a curb if you take it right. But even if going at a curb head-on, I think the 4wd buggy can kick the front end up and get the buggy to go up the curb.

Sorry I can't help with the Ultra GT as I only have the Hyper 7.

If you want to see an 8th scale in action, you can check out this video I just made here from an offroad race this past weekend:
http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/8thscale.wmv
9 megs, wmv format
~2 minutes

supralative

08-24-2005, 09:14 PM

wahoo just got a new buggy hehehe
Jammin X1 CR Pro
will still be racing the Hyper 7 on and off though
be awhile before i get the X1 all sorted out to my likings

Krasi_5000

08-24-2005, 09:21 PM

Thanks so much for the help AGAIN Grant Tokumi. This is off topic so sorry but i will keep it quick. Well since the first race I went the next race but it got rained out :mad: i was cycked up, car ready, got up early, i went there and it started pouring before we even got out of the cars. We just went to the shop and talked a bit and i bought a motorsavers filter, then next day i bought a Stratus 2.1 body (pics in ntc3 forum). Also just after that first race i got Hitec 625 MG for a steering servo which is working well, i got a RX battery pack (fits in the ntc3 like a GLOVE) and makes the servos a bit faster with 6V. I also killed my temp guage last week somehow...it wont turn on anymore. OHH yeah and next race is THIS SUNDAY :D :D :D Aug. 28th i will update you how it went.
Sorry for the offtopic ^^

Thanks for the very informative reply again! I think now i will just have to go out and buy one. Would you say the Ultra GT and just the Ultra models overall are not the best? I was reading reviews and some people say they are amazing some say not so good. SHould i get one of the GT's i found for about the $200 usd or should i wait and get a Hyper 7 or higher level buggy?

Tokumi...do you have msn or any messeging program? PM me with info i think i could learn alot from you :p I have every popular messenger pretty much.

Re-Mix

08-24-2005, 11:10 PM

Does anyone know of a plastic spur gear that will work with the hyper 7 series? Thanks

Grant Tokumi

08-25-2005, 08:00 PM

I think now i will just have to go out and buy one. Would you say the Ultra GT and just the Ultra models overall are not the best? I was reading reviews and some people say they are amazing some say not so good. SHould i get one of the GT's i found for about the $200 usd or should i wait and get a Hyper 7 or higher level buggy?

Hopefully someone else in here can help you with that. I haven't seen one on the track before that I know of (all 8th scale buggies pretty much look alike to me so far as I am still fairly new to the 8th scale game). I don't even know what difference it has over the Hyper 7 or the other 20 models that OFNA seems to have. :)

One thing that you might consider before making your decision is looking for spare parts availability now. www.nitrohouse.com is a place that I know of that sells OFNA parts. But so far, I am having much difficulty finding parts that I need as the OFNA part numbers listed on the site do not match my instruction manual and there are no pictures on the site for most of the parts. I personally resorted to buying a new Hyper 7 rolling chassis from ebay so I at least had 2 of everything, and more importantly, I had confidence that the parts would be correct. But now that I am considering buying a C-hub conversion over pillowball, I know from superlative what parts I need, but I do not know or don't have confidence that I would be buying the correct parts if/when I do order them from Nitrohouse.

Anyways. Not sure if I was any help there, but good luck on sunday!

Krasi_5000

08-25-2005, 08:14 PM

thanks for the info again. I notice that too that Ofna has like 10 different buggies yet all very similar or different things like they change engine or whatever and its a whole new buggy lol.

I will do more research on what to get because i now think i should either get a NEW ofna buggy, a NEW monster truck or a new engine + radio + misc. parts for ntc3. I can't quite decide what i want to do since i havent seen a buggy in action and there arent many offroad places here for buggy or mt so i might just buy ntc3 parts since i just started that.

Thanks for the help and thanks for the luck for sunday

supralative

08-26-2005, 09:31 AM

Grant
Talk to Andy at Nitrohouse
they know what parts you need for C Hub conversion
i have seen kits on ebay that have everything you need also
like in the $30-$40 range

Grant Tokumi

08-26-2005, 02:06 PM

Is this one of em.

http://cgi.ebay.com/OFNA-HYPER-7-PCR-PRO-C-HUB-SUSPENSION-NEW_W0QQitemZ5994729842QQcategoryZ49215QQssPageNam eZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

I call dibs on this if it is. Don't let me see any of you trying to engage in bidding wars with me. :)

supralative

08-26-2005, 11:23 PM

yea that is the good one
last time it went for like $31 I think
he gives you the 17degree hubs there
there is a hub kit that has 17, 20, 22 hubs with the arms for like $18 buy it now
you get that and you are set
with the set you posted you also get rid of the PBS in the rear
dont forget the front shcok tower, top plate and front chassis brace
you can still use the pbs stuff but the c hub top plate fits snug on top and not elevated like the pbs plate
not if you use pbs plate must use pbs brace
rear brace doesnt matter its up to you
good luck

Grant Tokumi

08-26-2005, 11:34 PM

Grant Tokumi

08-28-2005, 02:36 PM

Pictures of my Hyper 7 from the race yesterday. Photos courtesy of Chops with his nice fancy camera. :)

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/ofna01.jpg

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/ofna02.jpg

Tried to redo the shock oils this race, 50 in the rear and 40 up front. Not sure if I liked it. I'll keep it in there for a while though.

The race itself didn't go so well. I hit a wall quite hard in the 1st qualifier. I finished the qualifier unbroken, but there was a clicking sound in the steering servo (Hitec 5925MG) after that. I was surprised the steering still worked. But of course in the 2nd qualifier, it didn't take long for the servo gears to totally give out. I had a crappy servo in my toolbox that I could have swapped out, but I was lazy to do that in the short time I had, and to only have a half decent steering response. So I watched the main instead and took notes on the top racers.

supralative

08-29-2005, 12:05 AM

extra parts are good to have
i like the option of me running different degree hubs

the price is somewhat close but always do what makes you feel best and whats best for the wallet hehehehe

Grant Tokumi

08-31-2005, 09:01 AM

Thanks for the help.
I won these:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5994729842&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=5994730691&rd=1&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWN%3AIT&rd=1

You say I still need a new shock tower too?

supralative

08-31-2005, 06:16 PM

yea shock tower for sure
you can use the a new top plate and brace or just make do with what you got also

for the rear arms to work you need a total of four spacers
two on each arm
i do not know if those are sold seperately
they go in between the up arm and uprights to allow to adjust wheelbase

badboy2

09-09-2005, 10:20 AM

im havin these problems again idk what causes it anyway my buggy stalled so i tried to start it again but it would die right away or when i hit on brakes and now i cant even push or pull it since the brakes are engage (thats how it feels)..even with just the radio and rx on i tried to rev it and its still hard to push and pull like the wheels are locked...
ok i tried to check the linkages while engine is SHUT OFF..the ball end of the linkage gets stucked on the bottom of the top plate when i hit brakes but even if i push it back out still the buggy wont roll i even loosened the screws that holds the brakes..and i also tried to lift front end and rolled it back and forth rear wheels roll with no problem i did the same thing on the other end and theyre ok..
i think im ok as long as i dont run the buggy with 4 wheels on ground lol..what do u think is the problem?

Grant Tokumi

09-09-2005, 02:58 PM

Sounds like its a mechanical problem which is good because those are typically easier to isolate than an electrical problem or engine tuning problem. First thing that comes to mind is one of your diffs might be backwards. Lift up all 4 tires and spin the spur by hand. Does all 4 tires spin the same direction? If 1 diff is backwards, the front tires will spin one way and the rear tires will spin the other way.

If its not that, I don't know what the exact problem is, but the method to find it is to "isolate the problem" as I mentioned above. Example, a good starting point may be to remove the 2 center drive dog bones to the front and rear diff. If it still does not roll with those removed, then you know it can't be the brake because the center diff and brake is no longer even connected to the tires. So it has to be the front end or rear end. Continue to find ways to isolate the problem until you find out what it is.

Hope this helps.

Grant Tokumi

09-09-2005, 03:02 PM

Darn, after rereading your post, doesn't sounds like a backwards diff. Broken clutch spring? Remove engine and see if the clutchbell spins freely.

Grant Tokumi

09-18-2005, 12:19 AM

Another good race day. Well, I had a lot of wrenching all day, but it paid off in the end. Ended up taking 1st place out of 9 racers.

I made the switch to the C-hubs in the front (22 degrees) and rear. I can't say it made a HUGE difference. It does look like the tires can turn more and it is confirmed by the fact that I had to increase my steering end point settings to accomodate the extra steering. I can tell the turning radius is smaller when idling around the track, but during racing, I don't really hit the steering end points too often so I can't say it made a significant difference over pbs. But what does give me piece of mind is that I know the suspension/steering will not bind up on me anymore like how my pbs would on occasion.

Part of the the wrenching was due to a stripped steering servo gear. This was the 2nd set of gears that I've stripped in 2 races. Its my fault as I hit a fence/post at a fairly high speed all on my own in the 1st qualifier, due to some self-admitting 1st heat jitters. I had a spare gear set fortunately. But as its an expensive $90 Hitec 5925 digital metal gear servo (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXUZ82&P=ML) it is a bit disappointing that it can't take a bit more punishment. The servo saver is working properly and not binding up. I now have to go order MORE servo gears at $18 a pop.

Another problem I had today was my clutchbell was not free spinning at idle. It caused my engine to stall as the car rolled to a stop cause it was sort of like the clutch not disengaging. Strange as I never had a problem up til now and I've never had to remove the clutchbell until today. But once it was apart, I was unable to tighten the clutchbell screw all the way down without having it bind up again. Even with new bearings. I had to remove the engine out the vehicle 3 times througout the day scratching my head trying to figure out what was going on. I ended up putting locktite on the screw and just tightening it enough where it did not bind up. It worked well enough for me to take the main, but I still need to figure out whats going on . Its as if I need some shims in there so that the screw does not go so far in.

Anyways, all in all a good day. :)

supralative

09-19-2005, 09:24 AM

Grant you might have to shim the clutch for sure.
I have been having problems with the Ofna Carbon shoes lately. Broke about 8 of them between me and a friend. The have been breaking right around the dowel pin area causing my clutch to drag real bad and this making the engine get pretty hot

i had to use kyosho 1.1 springs and shoes with some cutting and dremel work to get them to work right but no issues so far

real snappy down low now

c0sie

09-19-2005, 11:09 AM

hey, does any one in the know, know what differences id find/feel between the 20' hubs im currently using, and swapping out to 22's??

thanks guys :)

J_Bone

09-20-2005, 01:06 PM

20 degree hubs will have quicker turn in and can make it feel twitchy and create over steering sometimes.

Grant Tokumi

09-22-2005, 09:01 AM

From this site:
http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/setuptipstricks.htm

Less caster (going from 22 degrees to 20 degrees): Less caster increases steering drastically. Steering feels much more direct, the car turns tighter and faster.Less castor

More caster: More caster aids stability, and handling in bumpy sections.

Grant Tokumi

09-23-2005, 02:35 AM

Another problem I had today was my clutchbell was not free spinning at idle. It caused my engine to stall as the car rolled to a stop cause it was sort of like the clutch not disengaging. Strange as I never had a problem up til now and I've never had to remove the clutchbell until today. But once it was apart, I was unable to tighten the clutchbell screw all the way down without having it bind up again. Even with new bearings. I had to remove the engine out the vehicle 3 times througout the day scratching my head trying to figure out what was going on. I ended up putting locktite on the screw and just tightening it enough where it did not bind up. It worked well enough for me to take the main, but I still need to figure out whats going on . Its as if I need some shims in there so that the screw does not go so far in.
So to answer my own question on why I was having this problem:

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/clutchnut01.jpg

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/clutchnut02.jpg

The short shaft was causing the 2 bearings in the clutchbell to squeeze the inner racers together when screwed down and seize up the bearings. Tightening down the clutchnut lengthened the shaft to the correct length. The tricky part of this troublehsooting was that I could not tell that the clutchnut was loose by just removing the clutchbell. The clutch itself was blocking the clutchnut. Only after I removed the clutchshoes, then I could tell that the clutchnut was wayy loose. I'm surprised the flywheels did not also slip its way loose under this condition with the clutch nut backed out so much. So I added some locktite and tightened the clutchnut down, then I could lock down the end screw (end screw not shown in pictures above) and now that clutchbell is free spinning better than ever.

In any case, since this problem was racking my brains at the track, I thought I'd share the solution to my problem to save others from the same misery. Granted there may be other causes of the same problem so this is definitely not a "fix all situations" solution.

Grant Tokumi

09-23-2005, 02:41 AM

Thanks for the help. So if I go the ebay route, for ~$35, I still have to buy shock tower, top plate, chassis brace, 22 deg hub.... maybe $40 more? So $75 total.

And if I go through Nitrohouse, approx. how much would everything be, including shock tower, top plate, front chassis brace, etc? Would that be like $100+ or closer to the $75? If its closer to the $75-85, then I might as well call Nitrohouse and let them send me what I need instead of piecing it together from different sources and having extra stuff I don't need..... just thinking out loud here.
And to answer another of my own questions regarding PBS to C-hub conversion. Ebay is definitely cheaper than ordering specific parts from Nitrohouse for the conversion. Costed me $70 (including shipping on 3 separate ebay auctions). Nitrohouse would have cost ~$180 not including shipping costs.

Grant Tokumi

09-24-2005, 10:38 PM

2nd place today out of around 7 racers. Not bad. No more problems with binding clutchbell.

Today's problem was one of my front CVA slipped out of the outdrive. Happened couple times. Didn't fall all the way out, but seems like 1 side of the bone came out and binded up in the outdrive. Hard to explain, maybe I take picture later. My car was left with that one front side suspension stuck fully compressed and dogbone stuck in the outdrive in a position that it should not be in there at a hard angle. I had to remove the upper link to release the dogbone. After looking at it, if I compress the front shock all the way, one of the drive pins in the dog bone actually comes all the way out of the outdrive! Seems like I have to limit the shock compression so that the drive pin does not come out of the outdrive. Increasing neg camber would help push the dogbone deeper into the outdrive too.

Anyone came across this problem? Its C-hub version, CVA front axles, stock OFNA shocks, 22 degree hubs.

c0sie

09-25-2005, 01:02 AM

Karadjas

09-25-2005, 10:03 AM

My Pro-R
The font on the Hardcore is actually carbon effect, suits the body like halloumi suits trahanas :D

Grant Tokumi

09-25-2005, 10:20 AM

My Hyper 7 is the RTR PBS PCR version (I converted to C-hub) and it came with CVA in front and regular dogbone in rear so I don't think I could have switched the 2 out on my vehicle. However, I will still check for the # of rings etc. to make sure. Or if the rear CVA is a bit longer, I may just go ahead and order those anyways if that will help push the bones deeper into the outdrive.

Karadjas

09-25-2005, 10:21 AM

under the body
Delta Force .21 8P Turbo, Motorsaver, Protech one piece exhaust, JR XR2 radio, 645MG steering and 525BB throttle servos, noname dish wheels, Hobao equals tyres, Venom Failsafe. It's my step up from the Lightning RR I had
before taking a forced break from the hobby, and the two are nothing alike to drive.

Grant Tokumi

09-25-2005, 10:25 AM

BTW cOsie, remember how you were telling me that you Europeans add carrying straps on the starter box to carry the car upright?
over here in england alot of the racers have the same kind of set up as you, but with long carrying handles (like you would find on a normal carrybag,rucksack etc) that coould be bolted to the rails you have made, therefore you can carry your hyper level, rather than by the starterbox handle. hth?

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/ofna-carryhandle.jpg

Soon after that your post, I made this strap out of rope, and a 5" piece of clear flexible tubing for a handle. I've been using it for a couple months now and I have to say, at this point, I absolutely love it! It makes it much easier to carry the vehicle and starter box in 1 hand. You Europeans have some bright ideas. :) The way I have it, its fast and not cumbersome to connect and remove the handle. But I am a little nervous about the strap in the front slipping off the starter box handle. I've tested and wiggled it around and so far, it has not slipped off yet. I just wanted to thank you for the good idea. :)

Grant Tokumi

09-25-2005, 10:32 AM

nice buggy karadjas. All fancy with the purple nuts. I could not tell the "carbon effect" on the Hardcore font, assuming its the one on the wing, but looks good.

And what the hell is "halloumi" and "trahanas"? :)

Karadjas

09-25-2005, 11:04 AM

Thanks!
Yeah, I was talking about the sticker on the wing. The purple nuts are stock Pro-R. I just can't get good sized or clear pics under 60kb, all my decent ones are over 100kb.

Halloumi is a kind of cheese and trahanas is a kind of soup. I'm Greek :D

evaderstman

09-25-2005, 11:14 AM

Hey i would just like to say that yesterday i made the jump to 1/8 scale buggies by buying a used hyper 7. I got it for 355 with a starter box, a hitec 645, a sportwerks .26, a rd logics .28, 2 sets of buggy tires, 2 sets of mt tires, 1 buggy body, 2 truck bodies, and lots of spare parts. Anyway i should be visiting here quite and figured i would post a pic of it after i cleaned it(it came really dirty). Also i think it has a torsen diff, but am not sure i opened the center diff, and it wasn't a regluar gear diff. Anyway how would you tell if it is a torsen or not it had like sprial cut bars in there and it looked pretty high tech.

Grant Tokumi

09-25-2005, 11:20 AM

Welcome to the Hyper 7 club. Is this something you plan on racing? or bashing around only?

evaderstman

09-25-2005, 11:43 AM

I would like to get into racing it some, but it will mostly be bashed.

Karadjas

09-25-2005, 11:45 AM

spiral cut bars are a torsen trademark

evaderstman

09-25-2005, 12:41 PM

Alright that is pretty cool then.

evaderstman

09-25-2005, 07:29 PM

Got it running decent today but it is still pretty rich, and bogs a lot down low. The problem is if i lean out the sportwerks anymore it will just have too much power for my yard. Anyway i jumped it quite a few times of my jump which is the big 45* one that slapmafro uses. Anyway it survived all the jumps, and on the last one i hit it at about 3/4 throttle and it flew a good 50 feet forward and almost nailed a tree, but it drove away from it fine. Just figured i would share this, and say that this buggy is great it accelerates amazingly, seems really durable, and is fast!!

c0sie

09-26-2005, 03:32 AM

BTW cOsie, remember how you were telling me that you Europeans add carrying straps on the starter box to carry the car upright?

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/ofna-carryhandle.jpg

Soon after that your post, I made this strap out of rope, and a 5" piece of clear flexible tubing for a handle. I've been using it for a couple months now and I have to say, at this point, I absolutely love it! It makes it much easier to carry the vehicle and starter box in 1 hand. You Europeans have some bright ideas. :) The way I have it, its fast and not cumbersome to connect and remove the handle. But I am a little nervous about the strap in the front slipping off the starter box handle. I've tested and wiggled it around and so far, it has not slipped off yet. I just wanted to thank you for the good idea. :)

hey dude that looks wicked :) only too glad to help :)

c0sie

09-26-2005, 03:36 AM

Grant Tokumi

09-26-2005, 08:39 PM

now i need some help lol.

ive been told that you can buy longer shock shafts for the hyper 7 shock bodies?? front and rear? is this true?

or..

are there any DECENT shocks from other buggys that have longer travel than a standard set of hyper 7 shocks?

the track i race at has a surface comparable to the moons surface, or bagdahd after the 'shock and awe' campaign.. UBER rutty and bumpy..
I've heard that Kyosho and Thunder Tiger shocks are good replacements. But I don't know if you can just replace your shafts with longer ones. Keep in mind the a-arms are limited in downtravel as well, so longer shafts will not necessarily result in more downtravel. That is unless you shave the a-arms and/or chassis. I've actually heard of some top racers shaving the arm for longer down travel.

On another topic, I just learned this weekend that I should be changing out my diff oil WAYYYY more often than I've been. I'm being told around once every other race, which I figure is around after 8-10 tanks. I've had the same diff oil in there for around 3 gallons, which I'm guestimating to be 60 tanks. No wonder I can't really feel too much resistance in the diffs anymore. :)

J_Bone

09-26-2005, 09:49 PM

I have noticed my Kyosho shocks have better action than my Hyper shocks. I can't really pin point why since the quality isn't visable.
Newman from the OFNA boards runs the TTR shocks and he likes them a lot.
If you can, I would try to get more down travel on the Hyper. Just like Grant said, you will need to modify the a-arms or chassis and then get longer shocks. I have heard of guys using Mugen shocks as well with good results.

c0sie

09-27-2005, 02:51 AM

kinda in the asme respect here.....but why did ofna/hobao make longer front/rear wishbones? was that a travel issue? as i sure doubt it was specifically for truggy builders lol

J_Bone

09-27-2005, 06:48 AM

kinda in the asme respect here.....but why did ofna/hobao make longer front/rear wishbones? was that a travel issue? as i sure doubt it was specifically for truggy builders lol
I know on my Hyper, the front dog bones were right on the edge of chipping the out drive cups if the PBS wasn't set correctly. I did ruin one when I first got it. They needed to be 3-5mm longer just to have more adjustablility.

c0sie

09-27-2005, 09:46 AM

so the longer wishbones are like noticeably longer then?

not truggy building longer??

J_Bone

09-27-2005, 03:06 PM

Right.

Grant Tokumi

09-28-2005, 09:00 AM

c0sie

09-28-2005, 09:26 AM

i use motor cleaner, the stuff for rc lectric motors to blast it out :D

evaderstman

09-28-2005, 06:26 PM

Does any body know some shock shafts that will fit the hyper that are stronger then the stock ones? I just busted one clean apart, and they are just cast steel so i figured maybe another companies are stronger.

R3VoLuTiOn

09-28-2005, 06:53 PM

whats the advantage/disadvantages for pillow ball vs C hub steering?

Grant Tokumi

09-28-2005, 07:09 PM

whats the advantage/disadvantages for pillow ball vs C hub steering?
check out page 70, around post 1736.

Sorry, I can't help with the a stronger shock shaft.

J_Bone

09-28-2005, 08:31 PM

I just found out firsthand that changing diff oil is a messy messy job. How do you guys get the old oil out? Its more like black grease in there than oil.... I just used a bunch of paper towels to wipe the old oil out. But I'd say I only removed around 90% of the old oil...
You want it all out!!! I poor out all that I can and then I use either Nitro cleaner or Electric motor spray to clean up the grease or un-wanted diff oil.
Wipe and/or let it dry and rebuild. Diff's dont' have to be messy. When filling I just fill the idler gear side and install the other side. For the center spider diff, I installed all the gears adn bolts except for one screw. I filled the diff through the one hole. It took a bit of time to get all the air out, but it was real clean with no mess.

c0sie

09-28-2005, 08:36 PM

Grant Tokumi

09-29-2005, 07:43 PM

You want it all out!!! I poor out all that I can and then I use either Nitro cleaner or Electric motor spray to clean up the grease or un-wanted diff oil.
Wipe and/or let it dry and rebuild. Diff's dont' have to be messy. When filling I just fill the idler gear side and install the other side. For the center spider diff, I installed all the gears adn bolts except for one screw. I filled the diff through the one hole. It took a bit of time to get all the air out, but it was real clean with no mess.
Thanks for the tip. I'll be doing them right next time. I wasn't sure if a spray would ruin anything in there like the o-ring, plastics, etc. That center spider diff is a real pain in the butt as the screw holes at the bottom allow the oil to just flow right on through and onto my table. Even with only 1 screw out, doesn't the oil still come out that screw hole on the bottom? What I was considering doing was to put short screws from the outside, bottom up. Just enough to seal the 6 holes as I filled the diff, and then put the real screws in and remove the smaller temporary ones as I tightened the diff closed.

Thanks again.

I'm racing on this track this weekend: :)

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/bouldercity09-3-05.jpg

I originally wasn't going to enter this race as it required me to take a day off of work to practice tomorrow, but after seeing this picture with the new layout....... I had to do it. Its the same location as the Silver State Nitro Challenge if you guys are familiar.

c0sie

09-30-2005, 04:19 AM

the way i do my spider diffs is to turn the diffs main body a few degrees so thjat the body itself blocks the wholes.

fill up, but then you need a friend to help you get the scrwes in quick and nipped up.

it works though..just :)

J_Bone

09-30-2005, 01:57 PM

Grant Tokumi

09-30-2005, 09:57 PM

Grant,
I use one finger to plug the back hole. Worked for me. Your method sounds like it would work too. The diff oil won't pour out like water so removing one screw at a time just might work.

I just saw that picture a few days ago. A few guys are going over there to race the next race. I can't make it.. :(
Thanks for the help. I'll experiment different ways to fill that diff fluid.

Where are you from? There were a couple guys today from Phoenix... is that where you are? One of them bent a shock tower so he was asking me about Las Vegas hobby stores that might carry jammin parts.

Its a fantastic track!! The crossover isn't as bad as it seems to clear. But if you crash, it can be spectacular. :) I stripped my damn steering servo gears again today. 3rd set in around 6 weeks. I believe I did it when I misaligned the jump and hit something solid. I now have to run the race with my spare Hitec 645MG in place of my digital Hitec 5925MG. Instead of making a sharp turn and lining up for the big jump, the ramp is long so I've been trying to sweep that turn right into the jump. Drawback is that doesn't give you too much room and time to line up the jump before you find yourself airborne. :)

Its too bad you couldn't make it.

evaderstman

10-01-2005, 01:55 PM

Hey quick question i just got a new shock shaft, but the bottom shock ends i bought are not the correct ones they fit, but are about half the size and beefyness of the old ones. Anyway on to my question do any of you guys with a manual know the jpart number for theese?

J_Bone

10-01-2005, 02:01 PM

SOunds like you got the 3mm ones?? The stock PCR shafts should be 3.5mm. I would double check your part numbers.

evaderstman

10-01-2005, 02:24 PM

Well it has 9.5 violator shocks on it, but when i got the new shafts the store had a set of the shocks ends, so i bought them, and they fit but are this and weak looking versus the ones on the buggy.

J_Bone

10-01-2005, 02:31 PM

Oh, I see. The stronger ones you liked were for the Hyper? Bummer man! I don't know the part number for the 9.5's. sorry.

evaderstman

10-01-2005, 06:25 PM

Thanks anyway i think they are the standard rod ends for the 9.5 i will order a set soon the ones i bought were definatly wrong. I have one more thing though i just built a standard center diff with the parts that came with a my buggy to replace my torsen, and there is some slop. Anway does anyone know of the part number for just the shims for the four small gears? I can only find them as a set with the gears. Also on filling them can't you fill them through the hole that the set screw goes into? Or do you take off the spur and just fill them and then put it on? Also should i put some green slime on the o-rings or should i just let the diff oil take care of that?

Grant Tokumi

10-03-2005, 09:00 PM

JBone, so I just looked at your public profile and you are from Arizona. So was the Phoenix crew the people that you were referring to who came
down to race here in Vegas? Trevor, Luke, Aaron....?

Anyways, here's couple pictures and a video from the race.

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/fallclassic01.jpg

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/fallclassictrack.jpg

8 MINUTE VIDEO
http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/fallclassicfin01.wmv
21 megs
wmv format

J_Bone

10-03-2005, 09:32 PM

JBone, so I just looked at your public profile and you are from Arizona. So was the Phoenix crew the people that you were referring to who came
down to race here in Vegas? Trevor, Luke, Aaron....?

8 MINUTE VIDEO
http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/fallclassicfin01.wmv
21 megs
wmv format

Yup!! those are some local guys from my track. Luke and his dad got me into 1/8 scale...revived me from the darkside....lol

Grant Tokumi

10-04-2005, 02:10 PM

I think his name is Todd? Luke's father? Darkside? :) Anyways, Todd was marshalling right after the front straight before the crossover jump and apparently got hit pretty hard with a truggy right into his ankle. I only came to the track after it happened, so I didn't see it, but he was on the ground in pain for a long time. Maybe around 4 minutes. I was happy to see him walking somewhat straight after he got up. Those Phoenix guys are all good drivers. I believe Luke and Trevor was in the A-main. I was in the B-main and had a good run, came in first so I got bumped up into the A-main. With the RTR Hyper 7. :) Eddie, one of the Vegas locals was egging on the A-main drivers about my car. RTR Hyper 7 in the A-main! :) I ran horrible in the A-main and ended up around 6th.

J_Bone

10-05-2005, 06:56 AM

Grant Tokumi

10-06-2005, 12:21 AM

YA, his name is Todd. Darkside = Electric's. WE use to run at SRS (Cactus Classic) and he would show up with his buggy. SRS hated any thing Nitro.

Todd is doing better now...LOL..He had a limp for a few days...lol

From what tey said, Luke had a 13 second lead and then lost some bolts that held the motor on. Loctite it!!! haha I think Trevor and Aaron ended up second and third. They all had fun and liked the new track layout.
When I had my Hyper, the announcer would heckle them when I was laying down some good lap times and getting close.
Well hopefully Todd does not return to the darkside after his leg experience.... :)

I don't remember what was going on in our A-mains placement wise. I was focused on my damn engine crapping out on me in the main so I had to bring it in numerous times to unsuccessfully chase my tuning. I could not even make the crossover at times. That stock Hyper 21 8 port has been a fantastic motor (around 4 gallons) until I got on this big track. Then it started to whine out and started losing my low end. I still have to troubleshoot it this weekend. I know our local guy Randy took first, but I didn't know the rest. I did see Luke down turnmarshalling not too far into the main, so he must have gone out early. I'm glad they all had fun. And you can tell Trevor that he don't need no stinkin new front shock tower for his Jammin to replace the bent one.

As I enjoy beating people with seemingly low rate equipment, I think I will be running this Hyper 7 for a while. If I need a motor, I'll probably buy another Hyper 21 just to maintain the "stock equipment" status. :) No Novarossis for me!!!!

J_Bone

10-06-2005, 06:49 AM

NA, Todd is fine and there are about 6-8 of them heading to the Sidewinder race this weekend.

I know on my Hyper, it ran great for about a gallon and then it seemed like I was chasing a tune. Major PITA..... (PAin in the A...).
The engine is great, it's the carb. It needs to be rebuilt or replaced. I rebuilt mine once and it seemed to work good for a while, then the same thing happened. So I replaced it with a OS 20e carb. Ran great and had no tuning issues since.
I did sell it with my Hyper buggy, but the guy ran it for a while and it ran good while I tuned it. Then I left him on his own, BOOM. He over heated it one hot AZ night. It was smoking good!!

Grant Tokumi

10-06-2005, 07:50 PM

I tried to look on Sgrid for this Sidewinder race but didn't see anything on it. Where is it? I think couple guys from Vegas are also going to a race this weekend, but I don't know where. Thanks for the heads up on the carb.

J_Bone

10-06-2005, 10:09 PM

It's in SoCal some where. Not sure which track.

2fast2slow

10-07-2005, 04:03 PM

How is this buggy.I'm thinking of getting one and putting a 2 speed on it. What speeds should I expect

Grant Tokumi

10-07-2005, 07:27 PM

Check out this video. It shows the speed of these 8th scale buggies. There are no Hyper 7s in there since I was the only Hyper 7 that I know of at the race and I was the cameraman. But my Hyper is just as fast as these with the stock Hyper 21 8 port engine. From a racing lap time standpoint, the Hyper 7 is supposedly not the best handling race worthy car, but if you are going to be just bashing and not racing, then you can expect speeds like shown in the video.

8 MINUTE VIDEO
http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/fallclassicfin01.wmv
21 megs
wmv format

Since there are so many versions of the Hyper 7, I'll provide the link to the one that I have that seems to be the smokin deal IMO:

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGPN8&P=ML
$479.00

I like it because it comes with the good 8 port engine without pull start and it comes with a starter box. Granted not the strongest starter box, but after the engine was broken in, I use that starter box all the time.

I actually got mine from Ultimate Hobbies for cheaper I believe and with free shipping. But doesn't seem like Ultimate sells this same version anymore as the description on their website says pullstart engine and it doesn't seem to come with a starter box.
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p597.html

Grant Tokumi

10-07-2005, 07:30 PM

I should also add that the stock servos are pretty much worthless, so you should budget in changing those servos out. I used mine for break in, and didn't run too many more tanks before replacing those weak servos.

Karadjas

10-12-2005, 12:25 PM

I just had my absolutely worst raceday ever!

The Pro-R handled beautifully, as always, the Delta Force howled on and on and on, I made the A-Main and was leading by not more than a couple of seconds when on a WOT left hander the wheel nut came off!!! The wheel went one way, the buggy went another and God knows where the nut went.

I pulled my Lightning to see if the nuts fitted to atleast run in the B-main, but they're a different thread. I couldn't throw the lightning in the B-Main either cause it's not the buggy I used in the qualifiers.

The absolutely low came when the LHS told me they don't stock purple wheel nuts! Now I'm stuck with purple posts,locknuts,wing stays,axles and servo arms and silver wheel nuts :/

dolphinchamp32

10-12-2005, 07:16 PM

hey im 14 years old and have been in the hobby for three years and i have a small budget and found some buggies. which do you feel are the best out of the three?
GS RACING 1/8 STORM RTR PLUS,OFNA 1/8 ULTRA MBX COMPETITION RTR,OFNA 1/8 ULTRA LX COMP RTR W/.26 ENGINE . YOU CAN LOOK AT THEM ON THIS WEB SITE-http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXGUS1&P=0.

evaderstman

10-12-2005, 08:03 PM

Why may i ask are you asking about three buggies that arn't hyper 7's in a hyper 7 thread?

TucsonRevo

10-12-2005, 08:31 PM

dolphinchamp32

10-12-2005, 08:53 PM

what are you talking about i asked about cars in other threads and they don't have any problems with me. whats the deal!!!

TucsonRevo

10-12-2005, 08:54 PM

sorrry i cant help you out dolphinchamp, but all ive had is the PCR and i love that

evaderstman

10-12-2005, 09:13 PM

Well this thread is meant for discussion related to the ofna hyper 7 buggy, and none of those buggies are hyper 7's so that doesn't fit here. Plus i highly doubt people talking about hyper 7's will know anything about the buggies listed. Your best bet is to start a new thread in the general discussion, or go to the specific threads for those three buggies and ask for pro's and con's of the specific buggy in the thread then compare them.

J_Bone

10-13-2005, 08:02 PM

hey jbone!! whats goin on?? i think im gonna make the long 1 1/2 hour trek to the hobbyaction for the race a week from this saturday. what are the times?? thier homepage wasnt loadin for me :confused: im feelin like i can lose close when i go as i finally got this whole drive a buggy thing down after havin a monster truck. but, back on track, i wondered if anyone knew what the stock shock oil weight was?? im fillin her up with 45 right now. i havent run a gallon through it yet, but my carb seems allright. some yahoo hit me so hard from the side on m tire, he ripppped it off the rim with the bead still there!! have you or anyone had any experience with pro-line cell block 2 tires?? because thats about all i can get locally, without ordering, because i wanna race the "proline western worlds"". thanks and sry for the long post. :D
Oh man, I can't make it. Hobby Action changed the race times to Noon on Saturdays and my son has a 1 PM basketball game. SO no go for me. Maybe Sunday or next weekend?

cell blocks won't work at Hobby Action. I use Panther Komoto 2's and Pro Line crime fighters. Those seem to work the best for the race times. I use Bad Lands for practice since the track isn't groomed or watered as much.

TucsonRevo

10-14-2005, 08:43 AM

oh well, i dont hav enough money to buy anything else right now, because the cell bloks work att hobbytown ill be alright. traction? we dont need no stinkin traction!!!

Grant Tokumi

10-18-2005, 01:34 AM

Well, its a little silent in here so I thought I'd boast my new body I painted this weekend since I could not go racing.

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/hyper7body01.jpg

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/hyper7body02.jpg

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/hyper7body03.jpg

Its about time I replaced the yellow and white body that came with the RTR Hyper 7 as its starting to tear up. :)

This paint job came out much darker than what I was shooting for. I wanted more white showing. I was disgusted with myself for making that error and going too nuts with the black. But its growing on me now and I kind of like it. What do you all think?

TRF-Inferno

10-18-2005, 04:23 AM

Love the paintjob man. I don't have the proper equipment and skills to do such an intriciate paintjob so I envy your work. As you say yourself, I think if the grey areas show up as a more definite white, it would look better.

J_Bone

10-18-2005, 06:56 AM

The body looks good!!!!! The buggy looks like it needs some TLC though....... LOL

I've painted a few bodies and I usually don't spend too much time on them. I will try with the next one. I usually paint them all white so I can seee it when we race at night.

Grant Tokumi

10-18-2005, 08:59 AM

hahha. Darn. I thought the clean body would disguise the horrific buggy underneath. I forgot that I didn't clean the buggy yet after the previous weekends run.

Racin Rev

10-18-2005, 09:54 PM

nice paintjob. since nobody else knows what you envisioned no one will care that you didn't do what you wanted. About midway through just about every paintjob that i have done i have been so disgusted that i wanted to sell my airbrush, and with one exception I have always been pleased with the end result.

Grant Tokumi

10-18-2005, 10:52 PM

Thanks people. :) I hope to get some nice action pics in when this hits the track.
nice paintjob. since nobody else knows what you envisioned no one will care that you didn't do what you wanted. About midway through just about every paintjob that i have done i have been so disgusted that i wanted to sell my airbrush, and with one exception I have always been pleased with the end result.
Yeah, nobody will know. But I know!!! hahaha. Check this out, I even made this beforehand with Photoshop just to have a template for what I "conceptually" wanted to do:

http://www.rcarchive.com/pics/2005/bodytemplate.jpg

Grant Tokumi

10-23-2005, 12:12 AM

Well, it was a fantastic day of racing. I got 2nd place today out of 6 people in the expert 8th scale class. I had some very good head to head racing. At times 2 of us looked like there was a string tied between us for around 4 to 5 full laps. I stayed behind and waited until he cracked up. But being in the expert class, these people don't crash often at all, even when under pressure. So it was a fun time holding the lines and trading positions.

I didn't run the new body yet. I will give my buggy a full cleaning tomorrow and take more "for the record" pictures before I ravage that body. I spent this week doing my body reinforcement with dry wall tape and shoe goo.

My next goal is to try and extend the down travel of this darn buggy. My rear arms are close to horizontal when fully extended. I notice most other buggy's arms I saw can extend down much farther than mine. I think the extended downtravel will help soak up the ruts that my buggy is seeming to fall into sometimes.

Also have to find a front anti-sway bar as I've been running without one.

Anyone else run this weekend?

Grant Tokumi

10-23-2005, 05:13 PM

Anyone else notice that of the 4 screws that hold the rear diff case to the chassis loosens up after repeated use? Mine is loose to the point that I have to tighten it up after every heat, and when I get home, there is usually debris in the diff case. The 2 front screws seem looser than the 2 rear ones. It puzzled me for a while as to why this was happening. I realize now that it must be due to the impacts to the rear wing. If you land upside down, the wing that attaches to the rear diff case acts like a lever arm and so the diff case takes a huge load on it wanting to pull the front 2 screws out.

Anyone experience this and found a fix? I'm gonna replace the diff case, and I'm thinking of drilling 2 vertical holes into the aluminum rear arm holder and through the chassis to hold it down with a nut and bolt to help take the load off the 4 screws. Please share if you have another fix to the problem.

Fluke

11-01-2005, 06:52 AM

here's a pic of my bug with new upgrades (still waiting for an engine.probably a SH PT2004-XB)

upgrades include aluminium braces and a 4mm milled chassis
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/dd9a630c.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/b1241113.jpg

Grant Tokumi

11-02-2005, 08:49 AM

did you just acquire this buggy or did you have it for a while? Planning to race it?

Fluke

11-03-2005, 05:02 AM

the buggy is about 1 year old(surprised you didn't saw it before on in this thread).i bought it as a rtr and am slowly upgrading it.after the engine i'll get a new radio(still using the stock one) and i'm also planning to get rear uprights instead of rear pbs but i don't know if it will worth it.
i don't have much decent pics of it running(crappy cheap digital camera)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/rc/d1c6607a.jpg

and here's a pic of it about a year ago(and that was the last time i saw it clean)
boy has he changed.they grow up so fast :D (reminds me its time for a new wing too)
http://www.rc10b4.com/gallery/data/2/1008DSCI00011.JPG

and of course i race!!

Grant Tokumi

11-04-2005, 11:16 PM

Nevada State Championships tomorrow and Sunday. We'll see how I do. Some big gun racers are coming out.
http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/outerlimitspanaflattmb.jpg

Click here for larger image (http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/outerlimitspanaflat.jpg)

Its a fun track, challenging, especially timing the triple doubles on the right side. And the berms and elevations are very niiiiice. :)

http://rcarchive.com/pics/2005/hyper7body04.jpg

Grant Tokumi

11-19-2005, 10:35 PM

Silence in the Hyper 7 forums..... Everyone must have sold theirs. :)

Got 4th place today in expert class. Disappointed in myself. I was running in 4th on the last lap in a 20 minute main, and could have EASILY took 2nd place when 2nd and 3rd tangled in the last turn before the end of the race. But instead of cruising around the mix up, I plowed right into them. That sucks, but my own fault. I'll get em next time.

evaderstman

11-20-2005, 10:16 AM

Fourth isn't half bad. What is the setup you use(diffs, shocks, ect.)? Also that body you painted turned out really sweet.

Grant Tokumi

11-20-2005, 10:42 AM

My setup:

diffs: 3000, 3000, 5000 (F,C,R)
oils: 60 wt front, 40 wt rear, Kyosho light blue springs
stock Hyper 21, 8 port engine (OS #8 plug)
C-hub suspension at all 4 corners. 22 degree hubs in front
Treadz Cross(http://www.amainhobbies.com/product_info.php?manufacturers_id=15&products_id=2281)
Blue Thunder 20% fuel
JR 4131 throttle servo (custom throttle return spring)
Hitec 645 steering servo

So you still have your Hyper 7 and still run it?

Fluke

11-20-2005, 01:56 PM

gotta make an online "hyper7 owners club":D

speaking of H7,mine should be ready to run in 2 weeks.(getting an sh pt2004xb engine or top p5x and in a month either a futaba 3pm or a jr xr3)

evaderstman

11-20-2005, 02:25 PM

Mine still runs, but one of the pins that hold the out drives to the torsen diff came out and ate the diff housing right up, so i am awaiting the part. Other than that the car runs like a dream, and i love it.

Joost

11-22-2005, 04:07 AM

Well guys, here is my question:

When i had a first run with my hyper 7 pro, around my fueltank its all wet coz of fuel. Is the tank leaking standard because my mate has the same problem :eek: :confused:

ps: sry for my freakin' bad english.

Thnx in advance!

Fluke

11-22-2005, 09:56 AM

mine leaked too after a while.had to "redo"the gasket with "teflon tape"(the kind plumbers use).Coz yours is new i guess yours is just too dry.put a bit of grease on the o-ring seal

Grant Tokumi

11-22-2005, 02:08 PM

Welcome to the boards Joost.

I've run my Hyper 7 for around 3-4 gallons before I changed the gas tank because of leaking. So I can't say I've had much problems with a leaky gas tank.

"Waiting for parts", "two more weeks". No wonder no ones been on this forum.. I'll probably be silent as well in the upcoming months cause its a busy time for me so I don't think I'll be getting much racing until late January. Lets hear your experiences when you get those bad boys juiced up.

http://image.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryimages/lg-32216.jpg
I'm the one on the outside being passed by the car on the inside who ended up in 2nd. That bastard. :)

Joost

11-23-2005, 04:30 AM

thnx guys! Well the leaking becomes more less, so i think the tank must get used for some tanks. :)

i have an Picco .26 monster engine in it with a carbon Vantage exhaust and it drives like madness :D

keep up the good work!

evaderstman

11-23-2005, 02:02 PM

Well my parts came today, so i should have it running tomorrow if they have some diff oil.

Joost

11-24-2005, 05:52 AM

Well i have my parts set, but the weather is pretty messed up here. Little bit raining all day long! The broadcaststation says it gonna snow in a few days so thats pretty f*cked up as well :)

Here is my buggy by the way, i havent got the time to paint the body so that comes later:

http://neoghost.gamesserver.net/images/hyper%207%20pro.JPG

Fluke

11-24-2005, 06:26 AM

"Waiting for parts", "two more weeks".

And you have no idea how frustrating it is to wait

Joost

11-24-2005, 08:27 AM

Than why it takes forever to get your parts? Here in Holland i have every part i want in 4 days!

Fluke

11-24-2005, 08:58 AM

cause i live in mauritius and it takes a month to get the parts i need.
Well there are lhs here put they are either super duper pricy,sell only smartech or the owner just plain stupid.so i got 3 alternatives
1.Online order.
2.every 2 months or so a friend of mine goes to hong kong to stock up rc parts for we local RCers.
#.Get my aunt(who lives in holland too.nice coincidence) to send me some stuff.

As you can see,RCers in mauritius have a hard time keeping up with their hobby :(
I haven't run mine for more than a month.(engine broke)

evaderstman

11-24-2005, 09:12 AM

My parts got ordered last week so they only took about a week to get here, and they were supposed to be here even earlier, but the fedex guy got delayed or something so they should have only took about 4-5 days.

Grant Tokumi

11-24-2005, 12:45 PM

And you have no idea how frustrating it is to wait
Ever considered buying a complete new Hyper 7 kit as a roller just for spare parts and screws, etc? I got one off of ebay for around $150 if I remember correctly. It didnt' have motor, radio, but everything else was in there, and new. Big expense upfront, but in the long run as parts wear, I think its a cheaper way to go. And no more waiting, unless it breaks 2 times... :)

Nice buggy Joost. Its all purpled out and race ready with the rechargable receiver pack, C-hub suspension, etc. Just need body.

Fluke

11-24-2005, 01:57 PM

i have all the parts i need.i'm just waiting for my engine now.

btw i don't really see the point of getting a second car for spares other than in hardcore racing where indeed you never know what will happen.but like you said yourself.buying a whole new kit will only supply you with ONE part.and what are the chances you break the center diff brace or wing mounts,etc.what you break(or wear) the most are arms,followed by chassis,then bulkhead,,,etc,, and most of it will be upfront so i would prefere stocking up for those parts.again i understand why pro(sponsored) drivers do it but for the average joe...

Grant Tokumi

11-24-2005, 03:39 PM

To each his own I guess. I was just giving an option to try to help prevent the "And you have no idea how frustrating it is to wait", that I am very familiar with as well. It bugged me to the point where I decided a upfront roller for spares was the way to go for me. Not only the parts, but for me, its the little screws, special pieces that may not come with spares, etc. Just simple wheel nuts can be expensive if you buy it on its own. And can end your day if your wheel falls off and you lose that one little nut.

I get 3 extra diffs, 4 replacement shock shafts, chassis, many screws, and not to mention the extra gas tank (mentioned above) that I would have never purchsed on its own in anticipation of a leak. Which btw, happened to come with an extra fuel filter and fuel line with it. :) If you do the math, in the long run, I think you may conclude as well that a complete roller (even if you end up using only 40% of the parts) would be cheaper than buying part by part (plus shipping) as they broke.

In any case, I can also understand the budget racer who cannot afford to buy spares upfront to keep the vehicle running. The drawback is "waiting 2 weeks for parts", etc.

Fluke

11-25-2005, 02:42 AM

nice point on the tank...

oh well neways for the moment i got no choice other than to wait so in the meantime i stocked and upgraded a bit.milled chassis,braces(mostly for the bling :D) etc..

actually the guy going to purchase parts in hongkong(the one i mentioned earilier) started a small business.when we experianced RCers order parts,he just buys some extra.that is:you order a pin holder,he comes back with 5.that way we noticed the most needed part were the front end.and often,if we don't have the parts,we improvise and we're pretty good at that:D.

again RC is rather young in my island and lots of newbs are getting in the hobby(and lots of them getting out,realising it's not the plug and play type of toy :rolleyes: one dude broke the A-arm of one of his jammin only twice and sold both cars.two three-weeks-old new jammin x1cr).fortunately there are those who stick to it.ONE advantage we have is when considering a new rc we don't care about parts availability.for us,wether AE or smartech,parts availability is just about the same :D

now that i think about it,i may consider the second rolling chassis....
Grant Tokumi you're evil :p

Joost

11-25-2005, 06:31 AM

Nice buggy Joost. Its all purpled out and race ready with the rechargable receiver pack, C-hub suspension, etc. Just need body.

Thnx dude! We allready made a design for the body and there gonna be 6 colors in it! :) Lill' preview: there gonna be flames in it :cool:

Ill keep up the news!

nitro_newguy

11-27-2005, 01:47 PM

question for all u hyper experts shall i say :D lol, well im looking at getting a hyper this week, overall which 1 should i get in you the experts honest opinions? if not a hyper then a few others im looking at, lol i have narrowed it down to these lol i know its a few but these are my 100% final choices i gotta choose between these,

1. HoBao Hyper 7 TQ Sport (RTR)

2. HoBao Hyper 7 Pro UK - (w/o engine) (need to find 1 with engine supplied)

3. HoBao Hyper 7 PBS - RTR

4. kyosho Inferno MP7.5 Sports MKII (RTR)

5. Kyosho Inferno MP7.5 Sports (RTR)

thankyou guys :)

XXXNTMAN

11-27-2005, 02:09 PM

This is evaderstman, but i am on my nieghbors computer. Anyway the pro is the way to go. It is a kit so you can build it, and learn how it works. And since it doesn't have an engine you can get whatever engine you want instead of the cheap rtr one. It also comes with all the hopups in the box, which gives you a much better car.

Grant Tokumi

11-27-2005, 02:51 PM

The pro kit does seem like the way to go. I believe this is it.
http://www.ultimatehobbies.com//p390.html

evaderstman

11-29-2005, 08:02 PM

I have a quick question for christmas i am going to ask for either a vantage or jammin pipe, and was wondering whether a torque pipe or a high end pipe would work better for the hyper 7 with sportworks .26?

Grant Tokumi

11-29-2005, 09:09 PM

Hopefully someone else can answer this because I'm not familiar with various pipe performance. I will say I've seen some jammin pipes at the track before.

evaderstman

11-30-2005, 03:03 PM

Well i know they are both good pipes, but i just was wondering if a torque or rpm pipe would better suit that combo?

evaderstman

12-03-2005, 08:44 PM

I just thought i would share a video with you guys of what the hyper 7 is capable of. This if video is just basically the highlights i pulled from some footage i had so i hope you enjoy. http://www.rc pics.net/view_single.php?medid=69189 You just have to remove the space between the rc and the pics.

Fluke

12-07-2005, 02:14 AM

YAY!! my SH engine arrived today!can't wait to break it in

http://img127.echo.cx/img127/5457/redimensionnementdekif36228up.jpg

Grant Tokumi

12-07-2005, 08:59 AM

Nice video evaderstman.

Never heard of an SH engine. Looks pretty sweet.

Fluke

12-07-2005, 09:17 AM

its a chinese engine.i got a review but in french

same as lrp/gs racing/sportwerks engines

SH PT2004-XB

21 Pro Competition Buggy Engine / two needle carburetor

SG Shaft 14mm / ABC / 8 Ports / Alum Head / Carb. φ8.5㎜、7.5㎜
http://www.shengines.com/

Fluke

12-07-2005, 09:24 AM

pics from the review

http://img25.echo.cx/img25/2109/rotationderedimensionnementdek.jpg
http://img242.echo.cx/img242/6849/redimensionnementdekif36357dg.jpg
http://img244.echo.cx/img244/2889/redimensionnementdekif36310xw.jpg
http://img244.echo.cx/img244/9489/redimensionnementdekif36390nu.jpg
http://img173.echo.cx/img173/2822/redimensionnementdekif36422ri.jpg
http://img147.echo.cx/img147/1250/redimensionnementdekif36367bn.jpg
http://img147.echo.cx/img147/9840/redimensionnementdekif36373mp.jpg
http://img147.echo.cx/img147/8438/redimensionnementdekif36383gc.jpg
http://img125.echo.cx/img125/701/redimensionnementdekif36445qk.jpg
http://img147.echo.cx/img147/2219/redimensionnementdekif36439so.jpg

Fluke

12-07-2005, 09:29 AM

pt2004-xb(offroad) on the left,pt2002-xt(onroad) on the right

http://img341.imageshack.us/img341/4254/image013yn.jpg
http://img131.imageshack.us/img131/1821/image041it.jpg
http://img283.imageshack.us/img283/2523/image060bt.jpg
http://img299.imageshack.us/img299/9109/image050zh.jpg

Joost

12-07-2005, 09:42 AM

aw dude that looks sweet! :cool: It even has an turbo scub in it ;)

J_Bone

12-07-2005, 05:07 PM

J_Bone

12-07-2005, 05:13 PM

Fluke,
Those look nice. I was looking into getting one maybe down the road. How much did you get the Off Road for?

I did a little moding of my OS .21 RG. Sorry the pictures kind of sucks..
http://www.az-rcfreaks.com/modules/gallery/albums/album65/IMG_1820.sized.jpg

Fluke

12-07-2005, 11:21 PM

got it for about $200 shipping included

Karadjas

12-08-2005, 03:47 PM

The offroad track I race at got closed a couple of weeks ago to make more parking spaces for a football (sorry, soccer) field nearby, and the only track that holds races is onroad. I'm joining the 1/10 electric touring and Rally Game classes next season, that starts in late January. This is my Rally Game entry:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0375.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0301.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0311.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0300.jpg

Fluke

12-09-2005, 01:43 AM

what shock oil do you use?

Fluke

12-10-2005, 12:02 AM

good news.i'm back on the road again

http://murc.skyblog.com/pics/296263618.jpg
http://murc.skyblog.com/pics/296263550.jpg

Grant Tokumi

12-10-2005, 10:18 AM

Thats good news. Go break in that new SH engine.

Funny, you're up and going and my Hyper 7 is down for the count. I crossthreaded my head where the glowplug goes in, so now the glowplug can just slide right out. I'll probably pick up another Hyper 21-8 port. To be down at this time is not bad for me because I wasn't gonna be able to race anyways for a couple months.

Hey thats a slick setup karadjas. I don't think I've seen an 8th scale converted to onroad like that. It would be interesting to see some video of that in action. I assume you'd have to gear up some to account for the smaller onroad tires.....

Fluke

12-10-2005, 10:26 AM

that's what eu call "rally games".btw i'm racing onroad next week so i would like to know the setup on it.

for you glowplug thread,a friend of mine did the same but he rethreaded it a bit larger and now uses turbo plugs

evaderstman

12-10-2005, 11:09 AM

Hey j-bone thanks for the recomendation. Also why would you recomend the high end pipe? Is it to balance out the power range or something?

Karadjas

12-10-2005, 01:52 PM

I hit the track today, I ended up with this setup, but it is far from perfect.

17* caster
Bottom hole for front upper arm
Center inner hole for rear upper arm
Technokit 'A' compound tires
Rear purple springs on front shocks with 8mm of spacers
Black springs on rear shocks with 20mm of spacers
Shock Placement:Innermost hole on the top row, outer hole on arm both front and rear
Ride height:Front:Lower arms parallel to the chassis(the driveshafts are a little angled up)
Rear: 13mm
Front brakes a little tighter than rear.
Diffs 5k,Torsen,1k
Front camber: 9mm of turnbuckle showing on upper arm ( I don't have a setup board :o )
Rear Camber: 33mm of turnbuckle showing on upper arm

I see you have PBS, so the turnbuckle measurements won't do you any good, but that's all I have.

The shock oil is a very long story.... I ended up with 1k diff oil in the front shocks and I may need to go up to 3k or 5k. I had protech 600wt before testing, but as I let go of the throttle to ease into the first turn it spun 180* before I even touched the steering. It looked great drifting all around the track, but it was killing my tires and destroying my lap times. At the slightest hint of weight transfer, the rear end would blow past the front. I haven't driven it with the diff oil in the front, but through extensive computer aided simulation(pushing down on it on the computer desk) it feels very solid. I just don't know if it will be solid enough.

The rear is 40wt and it handles very well under throttle.

You will have to play with gearing; my Delta Force tops out at probably under 10 metres with the stock gearing.

I don't have a pitsman and I missed qualifying so I won't be racing tomorrow, but I should be able to shoot some clips of it at the track next weekend.

Fluke

12-10-2005, 11:35 PM

Thanks a lot.

SquirrelNutz

12-10-2005, 11:54 PM

I have a PCR rtr and a Jammin X1 CRT. I used to have a PCR Pro and a Ultra MBX Comp. I love Ofna.

I was messing around today with tires and stuff. Here are some pics of my PCR with the CRT tires on it. Looks pretty good this way I think!!!

http://tinypic.com/iepmy9.jpg
http://tinypic.com/ieq7uf.jpg
http://tinypic.com/ieq895.jpg
http://tinypic.com/ieq8ic.jpg

I have a PBS as well but Im selling it.

Fluke

12-11-2005, 01:13 AM

can't miss those tires:D

SquirrelNutz

12-11-2005, 02:09 AM

i normally run the fire tires and swap out with the black ones for onroad. I run a wasp .28 with custom gearing that gets the buggy around 60 to 65mph. I also utilize a JP-2 pipe that is just insane. I have had a jp-1 in it as well with this setup and liked the results of that too.

I used to own a PCR Pro and a Ultra MBX Comp. Both had 2 speeds and JP-2's. The mbx had a wasp .28 as well and the pro had a sirio .27 monster race. that sirio is now in my jammin x1 crt. I have yet to run the truggy since I just finished building the kit tonight. I expect some great results from that truggy. It also has custom gearing in it simular ot the pcr rtr in the pics above.

one of the great things about the crt is that it is very pcr like. almost identical. if there is anything that you did not like about the pcr, this has it fixed. The radio tray is extremely nice. There is a joined, yet seperate, compartment for the reciever and the battery. the servo stands are nicely laid out. the steering servo faces the side of the truck for easy alignment and removal. everything else is either the same or just imporved upon. if you liked the pcr then you will love this truck as well in terms of design.

EZM

12-11-2005, 06:01 PM

Whats better, im trying to get into 1/8 scale and was woundering whats better between the
hyper 7 pro
hyper 7 pcr pro
hyper 7 pbs
and hyper 7 pcr? which one is the best overall to get? meaning it comes with the best stuff like towers diffs etc.?

evaderstman

12-11-2005, 06:20 PM

The hyper 7 pro is the way to go if you don't mind building it. If you want a rtr then the pcr is the way to go.

EZM

12-11-2005, 06:23 PM

The hyper 7 pro is the way to go if you don't mind building it. If you want a rtr then the pcr is the way to go.

so the pro is better than the pcr rtr? what is the difference between the two and how much better is the pro than pcr rtr? also what would i need to get to get the pcr to pro specs except for the graphite parts cuz i like aluminum parts.

evaderstman

12-11-2005, 06:35 PM

The pcr has a pivot ball system, and the c-hub design of the pro handles much better. So basicaly you would need the c-hub upgrade, and i think you would need the purple chassis braces, the purple servo tray braces, and the wing stays.

Fluke

12-12-2005, 03:41 AM

finally got a chance to break-in my engine and WOW.that thing got power.even during the break-in process..

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/inter/DSCI0004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/inter/DSCI0008.jpg

Joost

12-12-2005, 09:01 AM

as i promised a few pictures of my and a friend's Hyper 7 Pro body ;)

http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums/userpics/10124/IMG_0097.JPG

http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums/userpics/10124/IMG_0095.JPG

http://foto.modelbouwforum.nl/albums/userpics/10124/IMG_0104.JPG

Click here for more pictures: my site... (http://neoghost.gamesserver.net/RC-cars.html)

Jay-r

12-14-2005, 10:08 PM

Joost

12-15-2005, 03:25 AM

Hehe thnx dude. Its my first body ive painted in my life so lets hope its keep getting better.

Its not very hard to do, it just takes some time. So try it and your probable gonna make it ;)

ps: its painted with regular tamiya spraycans....

Dirk Jan

12-15-2005, 07:45 AM

Painting itself is not so hard, but cutting the paintscheme is pretty trickey. Key part is patience and a precise hand :cool:

montrealer

12-16-2005, 05:35 PM

Here's my son's Hyper7 TQ sport:
http://image.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryimages/lg-35095.jpghttp://image.rcuniverse.com/gallery/galleryimages/lg-35096.jpg

Grant Tokumi

12-16-2005, 07:22 PM

Looks very nice. I can't tell if its new or not. It looks new, but appears to have aftermarket items like rims, fuel line. Son should feel lucky.

montrealer

12-16-2005, 08:40 PM

Looks very nice. I can't tell if its new or not. It looks new, but appears to have aftermarket items like rims, fuel line. Son should feel lucky.

You're right,

These are Kyosho rims and wing and the car is spanking new, engine has not even been fired up yet.

Grant Tokumi

12-17-2005, 10:38 AM

Will this be a racing vehicle? I'm guessing you and maybe your boy at least have some racing background.

montrealer

12-17-2005, 11:33 AM

Will this be a racing vehicle? I'm guessing you and maybe your boy at least have some racing background.

Naaahhh. This will be mostly for bashing however he is pretty good at controling the car. He drove my OS .18CVR-X equiped Nitro Mt-2 18SS prior to this one and he was impressive. Also, this thing was the only way I could keep him away from my OS .21Vz-B equiped JamminX1CR. Next spring is really going to be a blast for us two.

J_Bone

12-17-2005, 06:41 PM

Hey j-bone thanks for the recomendation. Also why would you recomend the high end pipe? Is it to balance out the power range or something?
Exactly!! The big blocks need to breath a bit more than the .21's. They have so much bottom end already they need more RPM's as well.
I noticed a huge difference between a JP-1 and JP-2 pipe. I use the JP-2 for most of my engines now.

evaderstman

12-17-2005, 07:56 PM

Well i asked for this pipe instead http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=479 it is still a top end pipe, but i like it more than the jp-2 especially after seeing the video of a vantage pipe beating an aluminum one up.

Grant Tokumi

12-18-2005, 11:12 AM

I just bought one of these engines to replace the one that came with my Hyper 7. CHEAP!!! :) :)
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=6023662361&category=34062&ssPageName=STORE:PROMOBOX:NEWLIST

I actually paid $119 for my auction, but now the sucker is selling it for $109. My loss, oh well, but you can get it for $109 or supposedly even $99 if you use paypal. There are 3 more availalbe and 2 days left if you want to jump on it.

I've been racing with this engine and its been really strong and reliable for me for maybe 8 gallons before I started to have to chase down the tune. So I figure I'd stay with it.

Fluke

12-19-2005, 06:54 AM

i finally raced my SH engine and that thing is a dream.but i'm sooo pissed off cause i lost a wheel nut during the race and ended on a dnf :mad:

other than that,what's new in the hyper world?

evaderstman

12-19-2005, 09:14 AM

Well i have been doing some work on mine. I just installed some slapmafro screws, and redid the brake linkage, which still needs a little work. I also filled the diffs with 5,5,3, and a while ago i added that splash guard so i could get to the diff easier, and clean easier. I also finally got around to converting it to a truggy last night. Here is a pic from 2 days ago.

J_Bone

12-20-2005, 10:26 PM

got it for about $200 shipping included
Who or where did you buy your SH 2004 ??

J_Bone

12-20-2005, 10:29 PM

Grant Tokumi

12-20-2005, 10:41 PM

Jbone. I'm one of those "set it and forget it" types when it comes to engines. Probably because I don't feel I'm good at tuning them yet. I try not to fiddle with it at all once its all set right. We'll see how this next engine goes. I'll note your experience with it. I've heard it before with those Hyper 21 carbs.

Evaderst, i'm not all that sure what the conversion consists of, but I do not see a rear conversion, only the front extended hubs. That is one massive lookin engine in it though. :) I know 5,5,3 is a recommendation for Hyper 7 buggy, but I think that might be light for truggy. Different animal. And GO CLEAN THAT AIR FILTER!!!!!!

Grant Tokumi

12-20-2005, 10:45 PM

i finally raced my SH engine and that thing is a dream.but i'm sooo pissed off cause i lost a wheel nut during the race and ended on a dnf :mad:

other than that,what's new in the hyper world?
Forgot to respond to this one. Did you lose the tire in the main? What about the qualifier? I see it once in a while, but I fortunately (cross fingers) have not lost a wheel in a race yet. I put some thread lock on there every so often.

evaderstman

12-21-2005, 08:55 AM

The conversion is really just some offset monster truck wheels, and some extended body mounts for a truck body. As for the engine it is a .26, but has a rather large cooling head. Also the front hubs are stock not extended, and i have cleaning that filter on my to do list.

evaderstman

12-21-2005, 09:00 AM

Alright here are some pics. First one shows the overall stance.

evaderstman

12-21-2005, 09:04 AM

And this one show the wheel offset, and the body mounts up close.

Fluke

12-21-2005, 10:10 AM

i got the engine from a friend.

Gran T:yeah lost it in the main but in qualifier that thing was incredible.i had to re-learn to drive cause i was used to my old hyper 4 port(on a side note,having a smaller engine than others helped me alot in my driving.i knew only that might give me a chance to win so i tried as hard as possible to make clean races.now that i'm on par with the big boys i can really feel my driving experiance helping me master the throttle.)

evaderstman,think about getting a new pipe too.the stock hyper one ain't the best

Fluke

12-21-2005, 10:18 AM

one last word on SH.even tho i say its great,i did had a bad experiance with it

was entirely my fault tho.the flywheel nut got loose,sticked to the clutch bell,heard a "PAK" noise on the long straight,car refused to move and opened the engine
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/inter/8cc7dddd.jpg

but i still love that engine.

evaderstman

12-21-2005, 10:22 AM

A new pipe is on my christmas list as well as a new steering servo. I asked for a airtronics 358, and a vantage top end pipe. http://www.carolinasrc.com/Webstore/Scripts/prodView.asp?idProduct=479
If i don't get the pipe i will probably buy it with my christmas money, but either way a new one is in order.

evaderstman

12-21-2005, 02:48 PM

Well i just busted a steering knuckle, and found that they are kyosho's not ofna's, so i was wondering who makes the strongest steering knuckles for the hyper 7 or kyosho.

Grant Tokumi

12-21-2005, 07:43 PM

<Fluke's picture of piston>

DAMN!!!! You sure nothing else got in there got strained with that incident? For every action there is a reaction. The bent conrod is one part of the action, but better make sure the reaction component did not get messed up as well. Like a bearing, or the crank itself.

Fluke

12-21-2005, 11:19 PM

quite suprisingly no.the piston was busted too but the sleave didn't have a scratch.i ran the engine sunday and seemed normal.

i'm suprised too but its a good suprise :D

Joost

12-22-2005, 03:55 AM

Hi guys,

I have searched my ass off to find carbon (fibre) side guards for hyper 7 (pro)
but i cant find the darn things!

I found a brandname: fibre lyte: fibre lyte (http://www.fibre-lyte.co.uk/)

Can anyone find me some side guards?!?! :)

Thnx!

Fluke

12-22-2005, 06:52 AM

i *think* KFactory makes them.you must be aware that they don't last long especially offroad

evaderstman

12-22-2005, 09:55 AM

Mugen makes a set for there mbx-5, and you might be able to get them to fit the hyper 7. If not you could contact a member on here known as outfrontframes. He owns a machine shop specializing in rc carbon fiber, and might be able to make you set.

alexrckid

12-26-2005, 11:43 PM

any advise for a race hyper 7 pbs/pcr as far as the camber/caster/toe settings......front and rear....??....thanks.

evaderstman

12-27-2005, 01:33 PM

Well i just broke another steering knuckle, so i really need to get a good set. So far i have busted an ofna cnc one, and a stock kyosho one. The one i put on now is a stock hyper 7 one, and i don't see it lasting long. Any ideas for what to use?

Fluke

12-27-2005, 03:07 PM

pbs :D

try a fioroni option part for kyosho

evaderstman

12-27-2005, 04:15 PM

The fioroni set is 100 dollars, and i was looking for something cheaper.

Fluke

12-31-2005, 09:02 AM

pcr part?

btw i just wanted to show my new play m8
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/DSCI0010.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/DSCI0008.jpg

evaderstman

12-31-2005, 10:20 AM

Nice, and cool guitar how long have you played?

nitro_n00b

12-31-2005, 01:42 PM

off topic stuff like questions about his guitar really should be in a PM rather than cluttering this already huge thread. Please guys, stay focused. :)

Fluke

12-31-2005, 01:45 PM

the guitare's for my dad.i play drums.got a premier drum set and a roland electronic one for training at home

kawasakirider

01-01-2006, 07:46 AM

um what is the engine that comes stock with the hyper 7 tq? it has a black cooling head and what is the hp of it?

evaderstman

01-01-2006, 10:47 AM

I think it is a hyper .21 8 port, and it has more than enough horsepower.

nitro_n00b

01-01-2006, 01:39 PM

it's a hyper 21 4 port. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=11890

this is what I ordered and should be here today or tomorrow. :)

kawasakirider

01-02-2006, 09:53 AM

it's a hyper 21 4 port. http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?cPath=420_328&products_id=11890

this is what I ordered and should be here today or tomorrow. :)

You will love it i got mine it goes about 75 kmh the guy at my shop told me it is awesome i love mine i was just wondering the hjp of it mine is exactly the same as yours except in australia the body is white with red green purpke and yellow flames :D

nitro_n00b

01-02-2006, 01:55 PM

dunno. ordered mine from Hong Kong. but just realised that today is another public holiday here in NZ, so I probably won't get it until tomorrow now :(

kawasakirider

01-03-2006, 08:30 AM

oh ok kool are you getting the HoBao version or the ofna version?

nitro_n00b

01-03-2006, 01:30 PM

ofna. that link I posted above was the one I bought from. It still hasn't arrived, but the last two days have been public holidays, so maybe the posties are catching up to all the stuff being delivered. :(

kawasakirider

01-04-2006, 12:17 AM

Oh ok well they are both the same buggies anyway. That sucks that you have to wait so long for it , hope it arrives soon.

nitro_n00b

01-04-2006, 01:41 AM

the hyper tq just arrived this afternoon. :) Turns out it is a Ho Bao version, even tho their site said Ofna.. oh well.

tried quickly to start the breakin and found that the accelerator and steering have been wired back to front, so one of the first things that happened was the the idle was set too high from factory. I tried to brake, and just accelerated more for a second until I backed it off.

I had to stop tho cos I had to go to a BBQ with the missus.

so tomorrow I'll have another go.

Some things that bothered me about the kit tho.... first, there was no glow plug in the motor, and second, the only manual that came with it was the kit building manual. No engine manual, no instruction manual with break-in and default setting instructions.

Should I have got them, or is that standard?

kawasakirider

01-04-2006, 01:44 AM

nah m8 just dont touch your servos there is a thing on your controller that reverses it or not just flick them

kawasakirider

01-04-2006, 01:45 AM

oh is your hyper got the white gody with the red and purple and yellow flames? they look bvetter than the yellow and black flames

nitro_n00b

01-04-2006, 01:57 AM

thanks dude. I've been into electric RCs for about 7 years, so the radio is where I changed it instantly :)

and mine has the yellow and black flames. doesn't look too bad. but the body sits askew. I had to cut a bigger hole for the pipe vent so it sat a bit straighter.

kawasakirider

01-04-2006, 02:28 AM

oh ok mine didn't have you drilled the hole in the back of the body?

nitro_n00b

01-04-2006, 02:30 AM

not yet

kawasakirider

01-04-2006, 02:32 AM

it will probably sit better when you do

jaysta1

01-06-2006, 03:36 AM

Hey racers and bashers

Hey have anyone tried the Fironi air filter for their 1/8 scale buggies??? I hear that they huge, but Fironi states that it will give more power and speed because more air flows to the carb. I ordered one and can't wait to try it on my Hyper 7 with the RB C5 engine. :D

kawasakirider

01-06-2006, 03:45 AM

nice hyper but i would have gone blue rims and black tired but thats just imo but very nice oh and how many hp does the c5 have?

jaysta1

01-06-2006, 04:07 AM

nice hyper but i would have gone blue rims and black tired but thats just imo but very nice oh and how many hp does the c5 have?
It states massive horse power only on the web site but for sure it's almost too much power to handle. Thanks I was looking for blue rims but could not find any to match the color.

kawasakirider

01-06-2006, 05:07 AM

definately a fabulous looking machine what sort of hyper 7 was it? mine is a hyper 7 tq

J_Bone

01-06-2006, 09:06 AM

Fluke,
How's the Sh running..now? I'm looking for an engine and was considering a SH. But the NovaRossi P5 is had to pass up.

Fluke

01-06-2006, 02:02 PM

running good.very good.

nitro_n00b

01-06-2006, 02:19 PM

I've had my TQ Sport up and going, and boy does it scream :)

A friend broke the engine in for me, and I've put a couple of tanks in it since then. Just after the break in, I somehow ended up stripping the screw thread holding one of the front wheel hubs, so a quick re-thread and a new screw, and I was good to go again.

The grub screw which holds the wire connecting to the pipe came off somewhere, so now it has a screw holding that in.

One of the screws on the wing came off at one point, but managed to find it.

The one thing that gets me is that the car dips when I'm going over jumps, which causes it to roll a lot. But I'm taking it easy and I've been told to just put on more power before the jump.

The tires that came with it are apparently grass tires, but when I run it in the grass it has way too much grip and rolls a lot when cornering.

All in all tho, it goes really well, and I'm surprised at how easy it is to start with the pull starter. i don't think I'll waste the money for a starter box. It'll also just add weight to all the stuff I already take to the track.

What sort of tires does everyone run on their Hypers? Our local track is pretty hard and rough, and some of the locals prefer Jollys.

Karadjas

01-06-2006, 02:38 PM

Welcome to the Hyper club!

You can adjust 'flight' characteristics while on the air. Throttle will bring the nose up, letting go will bring it down. Brake is a last second panic function for when you're vertical 6 inches from the ground.

A starter box is invaluable! It is not only cool to say 'I have a starter box', all top end engines are bump start. Your hyper may have sufficient power for now, but you will want more.

When I ran my Pro-R as a buggy I used Proline Crimefighters for swept tracks and HoBao Equals on unprepared, rutty, dusty tracks that were the norm. Now I run rally-game and use either Technokit or Ellegi and looking for foams. Just see what the faster people run, it must mean something.

Enjoy your Hyper, I know I do!

Karadjas

01-06-2006, 02:43 PM

I was wondering... Does the Ofna Pro come with a Torsen center and carbon towers?
My HoBao Pro-R did, and I'm still trying to figure out the -R part...

evaderstman

01-06-2006, 03:05 PM

It comes with a torsen, but has aluminum shock towers.

kawasakirider

01-07-2006, 02:38 AM

i agree with kardjas you will want a new engine soon they will get faster and faster as ive found with mine but they are still fairly slow i want a hyper 8 port race engine apparently they got 2.7 hp the stock hyper four port that comes with the tq is only 1.8 to 2 hp

kawasakirider

01-07-2006, 02:41 AM

I havn't had any problems with my nose going down but if it does happen throttle it hard until it is level but the jump i use is a fairly steep so the problem i have is bringin the front end down but i can i have landed a few backflips with mine and nothing on mine has broken ive just lost screws on the wing

kawasakirider

01-07-2006, 05:40 AM

What is everyone talking about when they say the hyper carbs don't hold their tune i have spoken to other hyper owners and they havn't had a problem nor have i

J_Bone

01-07-2006, 08:38 AM

What is everyone talking about when they say the hyper carbs don't hold their tune i have spoken to other hyper owners and they havn't had a problem nor have i
How many gallons through it? Mine went screwy after 1 gallon. The o-rings in them wear/dry out and that is to problem. They use o-rings that don't like Nitro.. :p or they just have been sitting so long they dry out.
I got tired of replacing o-rings so I installed a OS 20e carb and never looked back, till I sold it.

kawasakirider

01-07-2006, 09:02 AM

Well mine has had about 8 litres through it and there is 6 litres to a gallon i think and i have never had a rpblem and i know fluke never had a problem with his and he had his for ages

Fluke

01-07-2006, 11:42 AM

i got about 20 litres (probably more actually) and never had a carb problem.i know two other hyper users who don't have problems either.maybe the ofna carb is different than the hobao ones(all hypers i know were bought in hong kong)

(night shot just for fun :D)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v695/gaelv/2f6e4b19.jpg

and kawasakirider,i won't say i had mine for ages...i'm not that old :p

J_Bone

01-08-2006, 09:45 AM

I race with a guy who has had more Hyper’s than all of us combined and he says this has been an issue. Not all of them have had problems while some have had problems.
You two are not the only ones who have had good luck either. I'm not the only one that has had this problem too!
I would reset all my needles and I could watch the MSN and HSN move while I revved it on the starter box. :mad:

The reason I tell people this is to warn them so if they have a problem, they know what's going on and they have an idea on how to fix it. The Hyper is a good engine and would never say it's a POS. They like to scream and can take some abuse.

eb4flys

01-08-2006, 02:17 PM

hey j-bone
how the hell are you, been real busy so not been around for a while, just got back from an international in belgium, not a good race for me, but a couple of the other lads did well in a fantastic line up, hows your racing going ? still a hyper driver i hope
mchael

kawasakirider

01-08-2006, 08:37 PM

my hyper

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d64/kawaskirider/Picture026.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d64/kawaskirider/Picture057.jpg

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d64/kawaskirider/Picture052.jpg

kawasakirider

01-08-2006, 08:40 PM

Sorry about the dodgy camera phone pics

Fluke

01-09-2006, 01:12 AM

just got back from an international in belgium,

could it be the neo race?

eb4flys

01-09-2006, 12:20 PM

it sure could be Fluke were you there? was a great track, but the drivers were of amazing standard. what did you think?

Fluke

01-09-2006, 12:26 PM

i wasn't there but i followed it closely.i heard that the organisation sucked but heard only good things about the track and drivers.

what are your impressions?got any pics of the event?

eb4flys

01-09-2006, 12:50 PM

Fluke
i have to say about the organisation, the booking in process could have not been better. granted there were the odd problem but with the amount of drivers, i think they did an overall good job.as you say the driving standard was out of this world and although i was in the bottom third i felt no shame whatsoever. the track again was fantastic, we need more indoor tracks around. as for pics some of the other lads i went with will be loading them on to there site in the near future, i will post link as soon as this happens. where do you race (home track) fluke. Europe or US ?

Fluke

01-09-2006, 01:01 PM

neither.i'm from mauritius and there's no big events here :(

btw do you know when the indoor holland starts?i'm going to the netherlands this year so i'll try book my trip so that i can go there as spectator

eb4flys

01-09-2006, 01:42 PM

Fluke i have not managed to get any dates as yet i assume you are talking about the dirt challenge in Holland. is that the only place you are visiting or are you having a tour round europe? there are lots of great tracks around, 1/8 rallycross has to be one of the fastest growing hobbies in europe at the moment. ouple of pics of our home track

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/119.jpg

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/owens035.jpg

Fluke

01-09-2006, 02:09 PM

i'll be in the netherland but plan to visit belgium and germany.where do you race?

eb4flys

01-09-2006, 02:20 PM

i race in the UK, well thats where my home track is, but i try to travel when i get the time. i go to the US a few times a year,and anywhere else my $$ will allow, as we are posting buggy pics, i thought id have a go.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v685/hyperprouk/PICT0012.jpg

nitro_n00b

01-10-2006, 12:01 AM

couple of pics of our home track

I'm moving there.

eb4flys

01-10-2006, 01:46 PM

pack your bags nitro_noob plenty of track to go around :p

kawasakirider

01-11-2006, 03:11 AM

eb4 flys what engine do you have in that hyper it looks good how many hp is it?

kawasakirider

01-11-2006, 03:13 AM

oh and what sort of h7 is that mine is a tq

eb4flys

01-11-2006, 12:28 PM

to answer your question kawasakirider, the engine is a
novarossi 421B T
Maximum Power : 2.75cv
R.P.M. : 34,500g/min
Bore & Stroke : 16.26mm x 16.80mm
Ports : 8
By pass Ports : 5
Plug Type : Turbo
Carb : 8mm (4 x interchangeable inserts)
Carb type : Slide

the buggy is a hyper 7 pro uk edition, been using it for a while now and have to say it has great balance and flys very well in the air, it has the longer milled chassis, with an extra 4mm at the back, how you getting on with your TQ

Karadjas

01-11-2006, 04:39 PM

After messing with the suspension on my Rally Game Hyper without managing to get rid of its lift off oversteer tendencies, I decided to try a body with more downforce than the Peugeot 206. Just compare the rear ground effects on the two bodies:

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0388.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0389.jpg

http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a78/Karadjas/HPIM0391.jpg

Have you figured out what it is yet? Hint: Note the wing colours, do they remind you of a certain airline? :D

kawasakirider

01-11-2006, 08:19 PM

my tq is nice im buying a hyper 8 port race engine ( silver cooling head one ) after i buy a new steering servo and i will be set i love it

eb4flys

01-12-2006, 03:50 AM

kawa
, i notice you have the four port hyper engine in at the moment, as for getting the 8 port, a bit of advice, and its ony my opnion, i think you would be better keeping your $$ and using the four port till it gives up, im not sure how long you have been into nitro, but the difference you will see between the 2 engines will be so small its hardler worth the money, i have ran most engines over the last 14/15 years and for the first couple of them i would never notice the difference, why not invest your money into a better clutch set-up where you will notice more difference,another good mod for you is to get rid of the pull start, change the back plate and get yourself a starter box and of course some allways needed spares., as for the 8 port both the standard and the boost, do suffer from the odd problem, this is not to say they are not good engines, but the carb leaves a bit to be desired, the O rings wear very quickly and need to be replaced and if you dont replace them it means re-tuning every couple of laps, i hope this info helps. also if you need any advice on tuning or set-up please have a look at my SITE (http://www.freewebs.com/michaelbale/) . But the most important thing is have fun

kawasakirider

01-12-2006, 04:40 AM

Awesome site mate. So you don't think i will notice the power difference? Well what engine would i notice it with ???

Trent

eb4flys

01-12-2006, 07:54 AM

to be honest Trent, unless you are racing at least at club level, i really would wait for the engine, the top speed between a $100 and a $800 engine are really not that different in everyday running, the bottom end would be the difference you would notice more than anything. if you really do want that extra bit of top and bottom end speed sure you could go with any number of engines OS rehab, RB C5, Cipolla FZX, JP 8 port T, Novarossi 421 BT,Crono, Bergonzoni, (the last 5 in the list are all made by novarossi) out of all the different engines on the market, there are only about 8 true manufactures, all te others use another companies engines but mix and match parts or add tweaks. but again if you keep your 4 port, remove the back plate for a non pull start one (less resistance more speed and bottom end) add a good pipe somethng like a RB 2020, or any good mid-range pipe, there are many out there,then change the clutch and use mugen 1.0 or 1.1 springs and lightend kyosho blue clutch shoes, you will then see some real change in the bottom end, and as we dont often get to top speed on a track it;s more important to get off the line and out of courners quicker, which brings me on to set-up but thats a whole new ball game, if you do need set-up sheets, let me know what surface you are running on and what conditions the track is ( blue groove, jumps, long straights etc) and i will make one up for you and post on my site, you will have to bear with me at the moment as am not home very often, so dont get alot of time to spend on the forums anymore. you could always email me on my site address, there is a link at the bottom of the home page. Hope this helps you decide on what to do.
michael

kawasakirider

01-12-2006, 08:02 AM

yeah i think i will stick with my engine and when it goes i may just stick an 8 port sleeve in it but before it goes i allready had intentions of a starter box and back plate it is just i could buy one of the 8 ports of tower extremely cheap and everyone said my engine is 1.8 to 2 hp and the hyper 8 port race is 2.7 that seems like a big difference to me but im only a mug i don't know much thanx for the help i havn't been to the track yet so im not sure what it is like i will tell you soon

Trent

eb4flys

01-12-2006, 08:39 AM

your engine has 1.9
the 8 port has 2.25
picco pro has 2.25
novarossi 421b 2.75
novarossi p5 2.6
jp fx 2.25
so really there is not much difference, apart from price and of course quality,and when you think these engines range in price from (english money)
£100 to £400, so what would i do, well we all need to learn how to tune and run an engine so what better place to start than on a £100 engine, better than trashing a £400. also you will still have money for new parts and everyone else will be selling there sole to the devil for a new set of tyres :D
and my honest opnion, your not a mug your the smart one.......mugs dont ask for advice....they make up there own

kawasakirider

01-12-2006, 08:45 AM

Yeah you are right i will wait for a while until it dies but i need a spare engine according to my grandpa he is very into it lol he drives me every where and lends me money for spare parts and i pay him back when we get home i don't like carrying money he wants to get one of those venom indoor helis but he is affraid he wont have the co-ordination to fly one because he has an electric 1:10 scale car goes about 20 kmh and he crashes lol they are fun inside though

Trent