Ofna Hyper 7 Forum v2.0

[redcarrot55]

Hi,

Recently I have seen a Hyper 7 Pro with a different box. The box has a dark blue tone and it is also from Ofan. Just wondering if it is a revised Hyper 7 Pro or just a different packaging with everything else the same.

Thanks,

[GTX]

The Black magic has been dyno tested at 2.2 HP instead of the Rossi claimed 2.85 (I think that is what it is).

Now, my question:

Does the H7 Pro include an air filter? Is it a good one? Good enough for a WS7 from RB? How about the wheels and tires, what do they look like in these kits?

[soslo]

Who knows what Ofna is doing with the boxes now. They don't keep us updated very well.
Let's all gang upon Rob (Ofna webmaster) about it. LOL!! :)

GTX..
The air filter, pipe (0511) and manifold, come with the kit. It is the 18060 Ofna filter, and it seems to work well. No problems with it on the Hyper .21 or v01b.
It also comes with the "Hyper" wheels (white or gray) and the "multi-spike" tires (which did not last long). Others have got different tires with their kits. The black foams are way too soft also.
Are the black foams the stiffest Ofna has?

[redcarrot55]

I'm planning to buy the Hyper .21 8 port pull start for warming up and later may convert it to the non-pull start. How hard is it to find the back plate to replace the pull-starter unit? Is the plate expensive? Should I just go for non-pull start and get a good starter box from to begin with? What's the best (fit and price) glow plug for the 8 port?

Also, I bought Hitec 5945 and 5925 servos and I believe they suck battery power big time. Can the HYper 7 Pro battery holder hold 5AA cells inline/humpback? It seems it can only fit the 2/3A size (shorter and fatter ones) and I'm not sure if 1100mAh will cause too many charging cycle.

Thanks!

[soslo]

You may as well bite the bullet, and get a starter box. It would save a lot of frustration.
Not sure for the 8 port, but the Hyper sport takes mccoy 8 or 9 plugs.
I soldered 5 Rayovak AA nimh 1600's together, and put heat shrink around them. They fit ok, and hold up nicely with the Airtronics 94357 and 358 servos.
You can get the heat shrink, and braid for battery bars at most any electrical supply store.
I think the nimh Energizers are 1800mAh. Then Trinity has the 2000's out now too. You can get the Rayovacs or Energizers in 4 packs for $11.00 or $12.00. I am scared to look and see what Trinity wants for theirs! :confused:

The v01b has plenty of power. Gonna' stick with it for now. The rest is up to the driver. :)

[Godspeed]

Hi there people. Sorry to interrupt. I am thinking of getting a 1/8 buggy. This will be my first 1/8 buggy but i am still choosing between a Hyper 7 Pro and a GS Storm Pro. Can anyone please advice me on which to get ( i know that this is a Hyper 7 Thread) and please give honest opinions? In terms of handling, durability, quality and value? Thanks in advance. :confused:

[MAXX 2.5]

where is the cheapest price for the hyper 7 buggy on the internet? by the way this is the RTR

[redcarrot55]

I got my Hyper 7 Pro from speedzone in ebay. $399.99 +$10 UPS ground. The next cheapest is Ultimatehobbies.com. $399.99 + $20 shipping plus $30 sale tax if you live in California.

If I want to get a starter box. What is the best price/quality/vasatility combination out there?

[BurnsDX]

Air filter


I was wondering what people are using for air filters on the H7. The stock one doesn't even fit very well under the body. There was a pic of a H7 on the Ofna web site that had an air filter elbow that pointed the filter straight back.

[soslo]

The elbow # is 18059 and fits the 18060 air filter assembly. I thought you got the Pro kit BurnsDX? It should have come with it.

Godspeed... They are both good buggys, and there are people who do well with either one. My preference is the Hyper 7. I have no complaints about the Hyper. It is durable, and handles very well. Which one is easier for you to get parts for?

redcarrot.. Ofna has a nice 1/8 RTR starter box I am considering. This old Crono box is on it's last leg. Got the 1/10 RTR box about a year and a half ago, and it has been good.
:)

[Godspeed]

Hi there Soslo, both buggies have parts easily available for me. The Hyper 7 Pro is however much cheaper than the Storm Pro...but i am not too sure which buggy has cheaper parts. If both buggies are equally as good...i will prolly go for the Hyper 7 cos it has a better value...torsen diff and a set of wrenches.

[soslo]

Good choice!:)

[Crashbot2001]

Hyper 7 Parts are cheap. Only expensive parts are universals, pinions, chassis, crown gears, spur gear. Good Choice with the Hyper 7

BurnsDX

Even if you got the pro version, the air filter elbow is too tall.. The filter jams into the body. I trimmed the end that attaches to the filter about half an inch. if you look at the elbow, the end has two ridges . I cut my elbow bach to the second ridge. It still hits the body, but not as bad. I think I'll trim the other end next time I have it off. I rarely take it off though. Some folks wire the filter to the battery box. I don;t see it's doing much harm the way it is now. Good Luck

[haittmax]

Hi guys, I raised my body because of the filter issue and the linkage banging the inside, side of the body. I only raised the front though, i put a pretty thick plastic washer under the the front body post............................Mike

[BurnsDX]

Yea I cut both ends of the elbow and it barely hits the body.

[GTX]

Can a Hyper 7 RTR handle the power of the WS7? I might get the RTR so I can have an extra engine and radio system laying around....

[Godspeed]

Hi there, how do the graphite shock towers of the hyper 7 pro hold up against jumps? Are the shock towers compatiable with other buggies like kyosho, mugen or GS? Can anyone list some good aftermarket aluminium shock towers for the hyper 7 pro? Thanks man!!!!! :)

[soslo]

GTX..The Hyper has no problems with any motor that will fit it. You will be fine.

Godspeed.. The graphite towers work great. No problemo here.
Ofna offers aluminum ones, and Kolor Kraft (back a couple of pages) makes titanium towers, if you want to go that route.

[Marciano1969]

Have yall seen the new parts for the hyper 7 they have them listed on Ofna website, I have just got the pro and engine installed. Waiting for the weather to clear up so I can break it in, I was wondering do most of you use the torsen or run the regular center diff. I will post some pics of the car when I get home. Another thing when you roll the car on the groung do the metal gears supposed to make click noises, I have the t maxx and whne the engine is out it roll smooth. I have check the driveline and there is no binding anywhere.

[zuperfastone]

Motorsavers air filter with no elbow---great filter and no body clearance hassles...:)

[Godspeed]

Hey Soslo, thanks for replying. :) Reckon if the optional 7075 front and rear shock towers for the 9.5 are able to fit on the Hyper 7? :confused:

[OldskoolGT]

The shock towers do not interchange between the Hyper 7 and 9.5 (or any other buggy).

I found that the stock aluminum H7 shock towers held up very well, so I don't really think aftermarket ones would be that useful.

[Godspeed]

Yo OldskoolGT, thanks for clearing my doubts. :) Anyway, the optional aluminium shock towers of the 9.5 sure looks cool. Seems to me that there are no companies manufacturing aftermarket parts for the Hyper 7 besides hobao...or are there any others?

Cheers.

[Hobbytown Racer]

How do most of you set up the shocks??? Oil/piston combo and springs?? Also what diffs and oil are you using??


Thanks

[Hobbytown Racer]

I had the opportunity to see the Wheeler boys race at CRCRC yesterday and they really made the car look like no other!! VERY fast. :D

[OldskoolGT]

Yo Soslo,

I have some impressions on my new Rex P5 now after leaning it out some. It has much more bottom end punch than my WS7s. It doesn't seem to pull as hard on the straightaways like the WS7 though. A new pipe might fix that, so I am gonna try an OS T-2050 pipe as soon as I can find one. Overall, I really like the engine. Only cost $230 too.

[windellmc]

There are some optional aluminum shock towers for the Hyper 7 that are CNC machined. They look pretty trick. I think you can get them from Nitrohouse or Pegasus Hobbies.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

just my two cent's were are in the process of completing the titanium towers for the hyper 7 and inner and outer hinge pin plates. couple of more weeks and they will be ready.......

[soslo]

Hobbytown Racer...
Here ya go with the basic setup most used around here. Ofna, Kyosho, Crono.., it doesn't matter.

Front shocks... 40 wt... pistons drilled to 55
Rear shocks.... 35 wt... pistons drilled to 54
5000/7000/1000 with stock diffs.

OldskoolGT...
You threw me off with the Rex P5. www.novarossi.com doesn't show a Rex, but it does show a Nova RX21P5.
This even confuses me more!!
The P5 is rated at 2.1hp and 29,000rpm
The v01b is rated at 2.4hp and 40,000rpm
Why did you go with the ws7 and P5 instead of the v01b?
More confusion to my simple mind.
ok now.. v01b has a shorter stroke (16mm vs. 16.8mm) than the P5, plus more rpms. The longer stroke of the P5 would give it less torque than the v01b, wouldn't it? The bore is about .34mm bigger in the v01b also. There are no torque ratings either. Dang it!!
I GIVE UP!! :confused:
They make these motors too hard to compare on paper. The ws7 was leading in the worlds, until it ran out of fuel.. The numbers just don't add up. The driver matters too.
Someone needs to build a dyno, and make all the manufacturers use it.

Kolor Kraft..
Let me know when you get the hinge pin plates done! :) That is #1 on the list, besides the new designed chassis.

I am going to take a shower now.. and wash the cobwebs from what little mind I have left. LOL!!:cool:

Oh yes..almost forgot. The few that have tried the 2050 pipe around here found the extra fuel mileage (if any) not worth it. They were disappointed, and most put their old pipes back on.:mad:
*this is based on some of the drivers in the houston area, and may not reflect all drivers opinions, or conditions in your area. (so on an so forth.) :p

[coyote660]

whew...:rolleyes:

[OldskoolGT]

KOLOR KRAFT,

Good luck with the titanium stuff. I think reasonably priced shock ti towers should sell like hotcakes since the stock ones eventually get bent. I also think there would be a great market for ti shock towers for the Kyosho Inferno too (hint, hint).

Soslo,

That Nova RX21P5 is the same as the Rex P5. Right now the only P5 engines availiable in the USA are the Rex ones.

I wanted a new engine to go with my new Kyosho buggy so I got the P5 after reading Chad Bradley's (Team Mugen driver) comments about the engine. I originally went with the WS7 due to its race winning heritage and RB's excellent reputation.

I thought that a longer stroke equates to more torque. But there are lots of other factors like # of ports and crankshaft timing that effect engine performance too. So you can't really look at engine dimensions and conclude engine A makes more torque than Engine B.

Manufacturers HP and RPM ratings mean much since they do not say what kinds of conditions the engines are tested at. I could probably make a .21 engine put out 3.5 HP with the right conditions (really high barometric pressure and 95% Nitromethane). :)

Are you in Houston? For some reason I thought you were up in Canada.

[soslo]

No.. You can't tell much by the specs. There are just too many variables to tell anything. You sure can't tell much by what they post as h.p. and rpm ratings. I think they are all full if it.
I like RB's approach to it with the star rating. They don't want to get involved with all the politics either.
Best thing to do is get a good motor, and drive it.
Son's b/day is coming up, and he is wanting a new motor. He is just wanting to try something different besides the v01b.
There are a lot more good motors on the market now, than there used to be, for sure.
He keeps asking about the Ofna/Picco 01bp. I am going to call Angel today, and discuss it with him.
My son can decide between it, the RB or the P5. I can't make it around the track once, without tagging a pipe, so I would be happy with an ol hyper .21. hehe!! :)
You need to come on down and run, OldskoolGT! There are 3 new tracks going in. Should be a good year!:cool:

[Crashbot2001]

KOLORCRAFT, I would be interested in seeing some pics of those towers and hinge pin plates, even prototype pics.

soslo, who makes a new chassis design?

[1tuffRC10]

Hey Crash, bring whats left of that losi to Jacksonville. Bring that 8 scale too. unless you're scared! LOL:D :p :D

[soslo]

Ok folks..
Angel said they like the 01bp (of course) with the O.S. carb. He said it has tons of torque, and flys. (guess so with 8 ports) They also use the aluminum clutch shoes with the siver springs they come with. He promised they wouldn't tear up the clutch bell, as i have heard from other racers. Going to use the our old faithful O.S. 2030 pipe also, and see how things work. I think we shall give this setup a shot, just to be little different. hehe!! :)

The new chassis is the one Paul designed, and drove in the Worlds.
We have a little problem with the motor dieing, when landing from jumps, and this chassis is supossed to solve that problem. (less chassis flex) The Hyper .21 does it pretty bad, but it doesn't do it with the v01b. (maybe more uummmpppff?) Flywheel distances from the bottom of the chassis are the same.
Heard another person talking about the same problem, and the fix was the cnc chassis HoBao has in Japan. Ofna is going to use Paul's design instead of the one in Japan though.
It is in production now, but Ofna hasn't got the paper work on it yet, so Angel did not have a part number. It should be pretty soon though. Just keep an eye on "new products" on the website.
Hey Crashbot2001!! Your Losi falling apart??? Get a GT!! LOL!! :)
I am just long winded!!:cool:

[windellmc]

I've never heard that aluminum clutch shoes tear up the bell but I have heard that you need to file down little things that pop up on the shoes as they wear. Supposedly a lot more maintenance than non-metal shoes. I'm not sure the OS pipe will work very well with the Picco engine. Definitely try it but you might have to buy a Picco or CMB pipe to get the most out of the engine. I hear the Kyosho 512 might work well with Piccos also. You will need some kind of adaptor to get your OS carb to fit the Picco. It's worth it though since the Picco carbs are still inconsistent. I would try the stock carb first to see if you have a good one but the one I saw couldn't hold settings and the engine would lean out or richen up during the race. Anywhere from so rich it wouldn't run to so lean that it would run 300 degrees. The OS carb seems to fix this problem. You guys might also look at the Picco XP. Supposedly OS vo1b bottom end with WS7 or better top end.

I was told that the OS 2050 pipe was a lot quieter than the 086 but put out about the same power. It just sounds weaker but lap times come out the same with either pipe.

[soslo]

Ofna has the adapter sleeve ( they saw that one coming!! LOL! :) ) and suggested the new 10057 pipe (it is replacing the 10077) for bottom end. We shall see how it works with the 2030 first. Gotta' learn sometime! :cool:
Picco is changing their carbs to a single setting. Don't know what to even think about that. www.teampicco.com
It is also on the www.parisracing.com site.

[Herpetologist]

Hobbytown Racer, I was at CRCRC too. Did you race? That was pretty bad luck that Adam broke that right rear are 11 minutes into the A main. He did pretty flawlessly in the 1/8th scales though.
Here is my question for you guys. I have a hyper 7 pro on the way with an O.S .21 rz-v01b engine. I use 20% o'donnell fuel in my drake edition. How many of you run 30% in your .21's? I know most "pro" racers use 30% but I know a lot of people at my local track just run 20%. What do you run?
Thanks

[soslo]

20% Blue Thunder here. Nonrace formula at that. (More oil, the engines last longer.)

[Herpetologist]

Will the short shaft work for the hyper 7?

[coyote660]

20% o'donnell...

[soslo]

Get the pilot shaft version, herpetologist

[Crashbot2001]

soslo, thanks foir the info. I'll watch for the chassis. I have had no problems with my motor shutting down on hard landings, running an RB C-5.

My Losi is just fine, Danny(1stuffedgt..lol) has pen.. er, I mean truck envy.. lol.

Danny, I'm going to Aiken Saturday to run the buggy. Good luck in Jacksonville! Pass out some flyers for Hartsville while you're there and see if you can round up a few new racers! I have a flyer somewhere I can e-mail you if you need.

[windellmc]

Blue Thunder Race and regular both have 10% oil. The Race formula uses mostly Castor oil which will protect the engine better from tuning mistakes. The regular formula is almost all synthetic so it keeps your engine cleaner but will not protect as well from tuning that is a little off.

[1tuffRC10]

Hey ya'll, I got a e mail from DEH0722 and was wondering who it came from before I opened it. Crash, thanks and good luck to you at Aiken. I'm going to have to get there sometime. Are you going to FL in Feb?

[soslo]

Not I, RC10.

My son won a gallon of O'Donnel. We are going to try it when this gallon of Blue Thunder is gone.

[Hobbytown Racer]

herpetoligist, I was there. How did you do??? I'm running the V01B with 30% Trinity Platinum and 5oz of castor oil added. My temp was around 200 and it screamed like it was lean on the straight. :D I have close to 2 gallons through the engine and it still has a very tight pinch at the top. So much that I have to use a screwdriver to turn it past TDC. I was also getting about 8-9 minutes on a tank.

windell is right, the BT RF has more castor blend at 10%, 7% to be exact, and the regular BT has more syn. at 10%.


I asked about the H7 because Josh Wheeler told me the car works better with less pack in the front and more in the rear. I ran my XX-4 like this and handling was of the hook!!! (very fast)

[mercenario27]

Ofna Started a new Message Board

http://ofna.myikonboard.com/viewboard.php

Bob states it still may change.

[windellmc]

What pistons and oil was Josh Wheeler running front and rear? I've been running with pistons drilled out with the #54 bit (1.4mm) front and rear with 35 wt in the front and 25 in the rear. It works pretty well that way on rougher tracks. It seems to work ok on smooth tracks but probably doesn't have enough steering.

[Marciano1969]

I have just been at the track driving my new hyper 7 pro car, the car handle like a dream. My t-maxx 2.5 is not even close to handling anything like the car. I am running the os rg sport engine on a small tight track and it will run with the best of them.

The only mishap was the pin in the center cvd, when the car was order I threw in some spare parts so I had the replacemnt cvd. The only thing is I want to get another pin so there will be another backup. Does anyone know where to order the pin or can I use the steel wire at the hobby shop to to run through there. The pin has a flat space for the set screw, I was thinking would the straight one work?

Any way the thread is nice to talk with other hyper owners to get set up tips and new info. The car had a problem with on power streering, I switch to 5000 in the front from 3000, I bought some dirty hariy for the front will try running the same tires first and the mount the tires to see if it will get more steering on throtle.

[GTX]

Try using some epoxy on that pin and bone...

[soslo]

Marciano...
Call www.nitrohouse.com
1-800-928-0304
There is a cva repair kit, and a cva parts kit.

[Marciano1969]

Hey thanks soslo and gtx

[GTX]

Yep :)

My H7 Pro should be here soon, maybe a week or two. My Kyosho USA - 1's arrived yesterday, so I will have some fun with them and the WS7 next weekend! :D

[OldskoolGT]

Marciano1969,

IIRC, CVD pins are .1" thick (2.5 mm) and you can find music wire in this diameter and cut it to the right length to make spare pins.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

now that is a nice little tip thanks..............

[toddzilla]

i can't seem to find this info anywhere, so i figured one of you guys would know..

what are the differences between the regular hyper 7 and the pro version? i know about the torsen diff, but what else?

i plan on racing one this summer, but i dont care about pretty hop up crap, i just want to know what's different.


thanks.

[Crashbot2001]

Danny, what are you doing on the Hyper 7 Pro board anyway? You gonna buy a buggy? How did you do this weekend? I finished 7th in the A-MAIN! Ha! Not bad for me. I tore something up in the drive line but didn't notice till I pulled it off the track.. Haven;t tore it down yet to see what it was..

[windellmc]

The Pro version has the Torsen diff, machined chassis braces, full CVAs, all 3 castor blocks (17, 20, 22 degree) with upper arms, purple anodized aluminum washers in places, aluminum wing mount parts and servo tray posts, allen driver set (nice), unpainted body, graphite servo tray, graphite center diff top mount, graphite front plate, ball bearing steering, and extra shock springs (junk).

The standard car (same as RTR) has front CVAs, aluminum parts in place of graphite, plastic servo tray mounts, tie-rod chassis braces, 17 degree castor blocks, painted body (maybe not on standard kit) and bushings in the steering.

There is a kit version of the RTR car (no engine or radio) but it isn't available in the US. You can get it overseas but it may cost. The RTR costs about the same as the Pro car but you get a cheap radio and a Hyper engine. If you are strapped for cash or not sure you want to race 1/8 then the RTR makes some sense. All it really needs are universals, 20 or 22 degree hubs, and chassis braces and I'm not sure the tie-rod braces aren't good enough.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

HAS ANYONE SEEN THE NEW HYPER 7 PBS it is in car action this month supposed to come with a starter box and 8 port hyper .21.
the body looks awsome............

[toddzilla]

thanks for the info, now if i can only make up my mind.:rolleyes:

[LouisB]

windellmc, which castor blocks do you run? I've got a standard car with the 17* blocks.

From what I've seen on the track there is very little difference between the standard and pro versions handling wise. Some people at my club prefer the standard version b/c the graphite can snap but the alum just bends (so they can continue racing) but i don't know if there's any truth in this.

[redcarrot55]

Hi I have a few newbie questions and need some help from you experts.

1. No sure if this is only me. I installed a torsen diff in my Hyper 7 Pro and find out the spur gear is hitting the side of the graphite servo tray. Now the center diff cannot rotate. Not sure if I installed it wrong. I can easily fix the problem with a dremel (trim 1-2mm) but it'll be a last resort becasue the inner side of the graphite plate near the throttle servo area is kinda thin already.

2. I forgot to use loctite on the nut that tighten the flywheel. Is it a big deal? I tried to take it out and apply loctite but then the clutch is super hard to take out after I put it in (which is not easy either). Any easy way to take cutch out without breaking it?

3. There is about 0.5-1mm play in the front knuckles on both sides. Is it by design or bad part fitting? I worry about excessive vibration. Should I use some washer?

4. The rods that pushes the break plates is a little bit confusing to me. Should the pointed side (triagular shape) or the round side of the rods touch the plates? The pic in the mannual is different (mirror imaged) from the two rods I have. Looks like both sides works.

5. I have a Hyper 8 ports. How do I adjust the angle of the slide carburator ball that attaches to the throttle linkage? There is a phillip type screw in the slider axis, is it the one to loose? I'm so new to nitro engine!

Thanks in advance!

[1tuffRC10]

WTG Mike. Wish I could have been there and made it 8th. LOL I got lost and ended up here and caught you bragging! My be in Hartsville Sunday not sure yet. Jacksonville is fun, period.

[soslo]

I don't even think the thing is out yet Kolor Kraft. Ofna hasn't posted it on their site yet. Haven't seen it on any of the hobby shop sites either.Everyone keeps asking about it in the Ofna forum, but Ofna will not reply.
You can bet they will tell eveyone when it starts shipping!! LOL!
Best to wait for the Pro version anyway.
If you didn't see the post on th 1/8 thread...
Nang doesn't want to do mail order bodies, but highly recommended BigDog. http://bigdog.rcracing.com/

redcarrot55..

1) I duuunnnooo... Haven't tried the torsen yet. The Hyper works great on the tracks around here, without it. Plus it makes the 7.5s twitchy, so we just haven't gone there.

2) It would be wise to loctite the nut.
et a couple of mini screw drivers. Use one to hold one of the clutch shoes out, and the other one to pop the spring out of the groove, and gently wiggle the shoe out. Once you get the first shoe out of the way, the rest are a piece of cake.
If you use the gold springs,.. have fun!! Those little things are stout!!

3) The play is normal... drive it. It holds up fine. Just be sure to put a little red loktite on the top and bottom screws.

4) Not sure what you are taliking about here. This one uses an eccentric (pushes against the brake) on a shaft, that attaches to the servo linkage.
I would assume the triangle would push against the brake, but... I really have no idea.

5) To move the carb. around, just loosen the screw, and turn the carb. to where you need it. Then snug the screw back down to tighten the carb. Make sure you push down on the carb, when you tighten it, to make sure it seals properly.

wheeeww!!! Hope this helps.! :)

[anothermbdusted]

hey i just wanted to let everyone know about this here.... talks even about the new hyper 7

Ofna adds Hickerson, Kinwald, and other top talent to racing team
Printer Friendly Version
Topic: R/C Cars
Category: News
ArticleID: 879
Date: 2/4/2003 7:44:00 AM
Written By: ***********

With the coming race season, Great Planes/Kyosho has decided to drop sponsoring their racing team. With some top talent made available, Ofna stepped up and took on sponsorship of some top drivers.
Gene "The Machine" Hickerson, Brian Kinwald, Ryan Cavalieri, Josh and Justing Wheeler, and Derrik Furtani have all switched over and are now driving Ofna vehicles. These new drivers along with Paul Coleman, Ray Norte, and Rick Lund will make Ofna one of the biggest teams in 1/8th scale this year.

We took a moment to ask Gene "The Machine" Hickerson a few questions:

WH: Along with Ofna, who are your other current sponsors?
Gene: I am still using Hitec electronics, Pro-Line tires, Sidewinder fuel, and JT Racing Products aftermarket parts.

WH: What vehicle will you be driving for Ofna?
Gene: The car I am driving is a Ofna Hyper 7 Pro. In March, they will be coming out with a new version - the Hyper 7 PBS, which is a pillow ball system suspension. It is not going to replace the Pro version, but rather be a 2nd tuning choice for different tracks and conditions.

WH: What are the next couple of races we will see you at?
Gene: The next race I will attend will probably be the Sidewinder Nitro Explosion and then the Silver State Nitro Challenge.

Congratulations to Ofna for building such a killer racing team and best of luck Gene, Brian, Ryan and the rest of the Ofna racing team.

[soslo]

Alright!!
Goodbye over rated Kyosho!! LOL!! :)

[KOLOR KRAFT]

soslo page 37 in march radio control car action hyper pbs good picture of the new rocket:)

[redcarrot55]

Thanks a lot soslo. You're awesome!

[Marciano1969]

I am having a problem with on power steering I have put 5,000 in the front, torsen in the center, and now have 1,000 in the rear. I have to baby the throttle around the turns or risk losing traction. I have bought a new pair of crimefighters in the rear and dirty hairy for the front, have yet to test the new tires or run the new oil in the rear.

I have read most use 5,000 f, 7,000 c, and 1,000 r . Do any of you use the sway bar the black one or the silver one in the front or rear. It dosen't seems like anyone uses the torsen in the middle. It seems like a waste not to use the torsen.

The track I run at is small with tight turns and very little room to open full throttle, very hard pack dirt but they do wet it down before racing. The track is really made for 1/10 electric but they do plan to expand. The car is getting super traction in the rear running smooth soaking all the jumps but on throttle the front end break lose. The back seems to have to much traction it feels like the car is being pushed around the track. Sorry for the long post but no one is running the hyper and I thought yous guys could help.

P.S. It seems we may have a good upcomming year, Thanks for all the help in advance and thank you anothermbdusted

[soslo]

redcarrot.. I am new to this also (november)

Marciano...
try ditching the torsen, and use crimefighters or knuckles all around.
Use the same tires front and rear, regardless of which ones you get..

I will have to steal the mag from my son, when he comes over this weekend Kolor Kraft! :)

[anothermbdusted]

np i dont got my 9.5 anymore i got a ofna MP that ill be racing but i know soslo from a few boards and wanted to make sure that you all knew about the release time of the new hyper and also the news about the team drivers that are to be with us....I hope to god that it means aftermarket companies are going to be looking into ofna things more seriously like they have for the kyosho and mugen buggies....things are going to start coming out of the wood works soon i hope....when they do all us ofna guy/girls can PARTY HARD!!!!!

[windellmc]

First off ditch the Hyper brake linkage. It's junk. Go get a Kyosho, Mugen, TTR, or Ofna linkage that has the barrel adjusters. Look at any other 1/8 scale to see a better linkage.

For a small track a Torsen is a no no. Your car will push.

I have been running 22 degree hubs for a while. You get a lot of on power steering with them and not a lot of off-power. I ran a Kyosho for a few laps last week with the 20 degree hubs. It had a lot more off-power steering so I may try the 20 soon on the Hyper for our small indoor track. Both 20 and 22 will calm down the steering at high speeds. I found the 17 degree hubs very hard to drive on long straights. Any slight steering input was trouble. I doubt I will ever use them again. I did make a front swaybar out of 2mm piano wire. It's smaller than the stock ones. Then run the thickest bar on the rear.

5k front, 7k center, and 1k rear seems to work well on bigger tracks but my next try for indoor is probably going to be 3k front, 5k center and 5k rear. The heavier rear oil seems to make the Kyosho handle very well on tight tracks so I'll try it since the Hyper is similar. If you ever have trouble with a car being loose under power try going thicker in rear diff oil. If you want it looser under power try going thinner.

[soslo]

My son's Hyper came with the barrel adjuster. If that is what you call it. (no wire) But the kit cam from Japan also.
Ofna does have them though.

[the_swed]

Anyone how knows the pricetag of a hyper 7 pro in China/Japan

[redcarrot55]

I called some Hong Kong and Taiwan hobby stores recently for my Hyper 7 Pro. The price is around $300 USD+shipping.

[redcarrot55]

I'm in the setup stage of the Hyper 7 Pro. I use Trinity 35 weight silicon shock oil for the front and 40 for the rear, purple springs for all shocks, have all piston holes drilled to #44 (around 1.3mm, the stock holes are 1.0mm), and pre-load each spring with 4 inserts (around 15mm).

When I raise the front to vertical position and drop it, the chassis hit the floor. Same for the rear but not as hard as the front. The car and the wheels doesn't bounch up and down, so the dampering effect is working though not strong enough. I guess that means either the oil is not thick enough or the holes are drilled too big. I haven't jump test it, though. Any suggestion guy? Should I get new stock pistons or get thicker oils? Like 45 front and 50 rear to compensate the bigger holes?

Thanks!

[Marciano1969]

On the diff what is the average time between the rebuilds, and how do you all build the diff where they don't leak. Mine are pretty good but i want them to be leak tight, thanks for the help on the setup and this post. Have a hyper day.

[soslo]

It should be 40 in the front, and 35 in the rear redcarrot. The holes in my son's are drilled to 55 in front, and 54 in the rear. But I agree... That setup is a little on the soft side. Fixing to try 45 in the front and 40 in the rear and see how that works.
The purple springs are too soft. Got the blue Kyosho springs for this one, and they seem to work ok. Different oil should help stiffen things up also.
How long betwen rebuilds?? hehe!! It has been 4 months since this one was pit together, racing on weekends. The diffs. have never been out. It is probably time.
Get some rtv sealer from the auto parts store, and put a thin line on the mating suraces. Make sure it is clean, so the rtv will stick. Haven'thad any problem with these leaking without it though.

Isn't it nice to learn together??
Happy racing everyone! :)

[OldskoolGT]

For keeping the oil in the diff, it also helps to use a little teflon plumbers tape on the set screw that goes in the service port of the diff housing.

I have never seen any guidelines on rebuilding diffs. The oil does get contaminated with aluminum from the diffs very quickly though (its all silvery after just a few runs). So it might be better to change the oil sooner rather than later to keep performance consistent. I got around 11 gallons through the rear diff on my Hyper before one of the spider gears broke. I think I changed the diff oil 3 or 4 times at random intervals and never re-shimmed.


windellmc,

Do you loose steering when you run # 5000 oil in the rear diff?

[windellmc]

The car I drove with 5000 in the rear was a 7.5 and it had a lot of off-power steering. It seemed like a good setup for a smaller track with tight turns. I'm not sure how it would work on a big outdoor track.

[LouisB]

I'm getting the 22* castor blocks (and arms) to try out, if they don't work then they'll be useful as spares.

I might try some heavier oil in the rear diff, the track is really small so extra off power steering will be good, how's on power steering with 5000?

[Marciano1969]

You guys are here are way better the the lhs, sometimes they have no idea how to answer some of the questions. Thanks you all

[Crashbot2001]

Originally posted by OldskoolGT
For keeping the oil in the diff, it also helps to use a little teflon plumbers tape on the set screw that goes in the service port of the diff housing.

I have never seen any guidelines on rebuilding diffs. The oil does get contaminated with aluminum from the diffs very quickly though (its all silvery after just a few runs). So it might be better to change the oil sooner rather than later to keep performance consistent. I got around 11 gallons through the rear diff on my Hyper before one of the spider gears broke. I think I changed the diff oil 3 or 4 times at random intervals and never re-shimmed.


windellmc,

Do you loose steering when you run # 5000 oil in the rear diff?

You can also use CA glue on the threads of the set screw on the service port. Holds well and breaks loose with a little effort when necessary.

RedCarrot, the purple springs are junk.. Find a use for them.. i tied a spring to one and my cat plays with it. lol. the black set that comes with the kit is a little better and will get you by until you can pick up the blue ones, but do get the blue ones. If you wanna save a few bucks, get the blue ones for the Ofna 9.5 as opposed to the kyoshos. Same spring, just a tad shorter so will need a bit more psacer to set the ride height. They work identical to the Kyoshos and are about 10 bucks cheaper for the 4 springs. Tower has them in stock.

If anyone is having problems with their back-ends in the bumps, you might be interested in this tip. Take the lower rear hinge pin block from the front diff case and put it on the lower front side of the rear diff case. This removes some of the antisquat and helps dramatically with the bumps. The part number is 19030. They also make this in aluminum, but I don;t know the part number and the aluminum is not necessary. The plastic is thick and plenty strong.

[Crashbot2001]

hey guys, in case you haven't heard or seen, Ofna will soon be releasing these for the hyper 7.. Sweet Stuff. i believe PCR stands for Paul Coleman Racing.. Black CNC alum. Not sure if other colors will be available or not.. Supposed to be info on the ofna page soon..


http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19701.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19703.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19706.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19708.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19709.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19710.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19711.jpg

http://www.ofna.com/rayspics/pcr/19712.jpg

[coyote660]

wow...signiture series...those oughta be inexpensive eh...:rolleyes:

[windellmc]

Our indoor track is sticky clay and the setup above worked well on a 7.5. I think 5000 wt in the rear diff will take away a lot of onpower steering because it will keep the rear end from sliding as much. The 3000 in the front probably also takes away the onpower steering. You can run the front ride height lower with this setup though because the rear end won't try to slide around on you as much. I thought the 7.5 drove great with this setup but I didn't time it to know if it was faster than my Hyper. I'll probably try a similar setup this weekend and if I do I'll let you all know how it went.

[redcarrot55]

Hi,

What kind/brand of glow fuel should I use for breaking in the hyper 8 ports? What should I use after the break-in? My LHS tried to sell me 30% O'donnell race fuel for break-in, but that doesn't sound right to me.


Thanks,

[soslo]

Use the same fuel you will normally run, for break in.
I want the chassis!! And it ain't out yet. :mad:

[p.n.e]

hey guys, i heard a rumor that some of the kanai 2 parts will fit onto a hyper 7. is this true? can anyone validate this? thanks.

[windellmc]

Kyosho shocks will pretty much fit any 1/8. They are all similar. The K2 front and rear universals will probably fit the Hyper unless the fronts are too long. The K1 rears will fit Hyper front and the K1 fronts will fit Hyper rear. The diffs will fit but you need the Kyosho pinion to run Kyosho front or rear diffs. The center diff should drop right in. The hub carriers should fit either car although they are basically identical and the Ofna parts cost less. The Kyosho upper arms will not fit the Ofna but the Ofnas will fit the Kyosho with a little shimming. The steering knuckles will fit also.

[kreidel1]

What diff oil weights are you running in your Hyper 7's? And what size tracks do you run it on?

[soslo]

We use..
5000 front
7000 rear
1000 rear
Works well on small/medium size tracks.

Anyone have any nice weather they want to get rid of, and shove down here?? :)

[Marciano1969]

I have rebulit the diff and yet to test them out, ever since a rebuit them it has rained. I am running 5000,7000,1000 to try it, will tell you how it works when the rain stops.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

soslo you want 109 inches of snow and 10 degree days for the last :( i can't even remember what higher temps are now that i think about it ,please bring spring soon and green grass even brown grass is ok........................i will even take rain as long as it isn't cold freezing rain:(

[soslo]

It isn't quite freezing cold rain, but close enough. You may keep the snow Kolor Kraft! :)
109 inches of snow in Texas??? It ain't never gonna happen in this life time! Guess we are lucky. January and February are our worst months here.

Hey OldSkoolGT..
Finally saw a P5 run. It looked sweet. Much bottom end!
I don't think those 2 WS7's we saw were tuned right. They looked like dogs, compared to what is said in here about them.
Everyone mainly runs the v01b around here, so it makes decisions a litle difficult, until you can see something run properly.
Thanks for all the input everyone.
Put the P5 on order today.
Now he is wanting a Collari he saw in a Losi, for his GT. I only "thought" I could save some money because of the weather! LOL!!

Can't believe they came out with all those parts, and NO chassis!! :mad:
Called Ofna about the chassis, but Paul was not in. Chris didn't know and said to call back Monday. I will let ya'll know what they say then.

[GTX]

It snowed last night down here in San Antonio...of course I was still sleeping when all of it melted, so I saw nothing, lol.

[LouisB]

The weather's not too bad over here:) It hasn't snowed for about 5 years!
http://www.grccc.supanet.com/sky.jpg
The pink stuff in the sky is a lens problem (or weird jet planes)
If you're wondering what the hell it is then the big white tent is yurt from Turkmenistan.

[Marciano1969]

GTX i am in san antonio, I run at toys for big boys. If you run the hyper maybe someday we can run the same day.

[baneonrt]

Does anybody happen to know the part number for the engine backplate to replace the pull start assembly. A friend of mine has a Hyper 7 RTR with the Hyper .21 engine and he's tired of replacing the starter assembly due to broken return springs. We've looked all over but can not find a part number breakdown for this engine.

Edit: Ok, as soon as I posted this we did one last search and of course found it. The part number we found is 54030. Can anybody confirm that this is the part we need and maybe make a suggestion on who would carry it (TH does not list it)? The list we got that number from did not have a detailed description or picture associated with it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Steve

[coyote660]

hey steve....since you're looking for a backplate.."rear crankcase cover" that means you have a starter box...just leave the pullstart on it and forget about it...if you're really set on a backplate call nitrohouse...some weather eh?...;)

[GTX]

I have put my H7 on hold for a while since I want to wait and see how the PBS version is. For the meantime, I am using a new Dom I ordered.

Marciano1969 - you are here too, huh? SWEET! Where are you located at? I go to Toys 4 Big Boys also. Cool shop, huh? I think the track should be bigger though. What setup are you running? I would race ya :p

[baneonrt]

Thanks for the advice coyote. I guess he just wants it to have a clean look and since the pull start is broken it's gotta go.

I assume you're in the Sacramento area from your comment on the weather? :)

Nevermind, just looked at your profile. We're expecting rain tomorrow, how much longer of good weather are you guys down there expected to have?

Steve

Originally posted by coyote660
hey steve....since you're looking for a backplate.."rear crankcase cover" that means you have a starter box...just leave the pullstart on it and forget about it...if you're really set on a backplate call nitrohouse...some weather eh?...;)

[coyote660]

bane...we got a little rain last night...i just feel sorry for some of the brethren who are bogged down in snow, ice and freezing rain...i'd hate to see their carpet cleaning bill when winter is finally gone...:D

[KOLOR KRAFT]

update since last visit 115 in and still counting can some one tell me if the sun is still burning or did it burn out!!!!!!!:(

forget carpet cleaning what about new roads in the spring because they are all cracked and potholed and everbodys cars are either white with salt goo or brown with sand goo and all beeten up now that really sucks. we learned a long time ago to have hardwood floors instead of carpet.

can someone download sum nitro fumes or sounds PLEASE:)
i am haveing withdrawels.............

[coyote660]

look on the bright side kraft...you'll have tons o work after it all passes...$$$;)

[Herpetologist]

Just thought I would post a pic of my H7 pro. Just put it together over the weekend.
Dustin

[Marciano1969]

I was able to run my car out at the track fianaly, i did move to the 5000f, 7000c, and 1000r, and the car is handling alot better. The front end push is the thing of the past, I did put on the heavy black sway bar on the back. I think I am going to go with the 20 degre hubs in the front and try that out a want more cornering speed, then i might try the silver sway bar out front.

[ezequiel]

towerhobbies has the wing set, but do not have the
pullstart for the hyper 21. Where do you buy your
hyper 7 parts online?

[windellmc]

Marciano1969 - Make a new front swaybar out of 2.0 mm piano wire. Just use an existing swaybar as a pattern. Run the heaviest swaybar you have in the rear. I think it is the black. Run some blue Kyosho or Ofna springs if you haven't. That will also quicken up the handling compared to the black springs.

[soslo]

It'll get better Kolor Kraft.
What is bad too, is having a new track to run at, and they can't even have a grand opening race because of the weather. This will be the 2nd weekend they have tried, and it don't look good. :mad:
So don't feel like the Lone Stranger when it comes to not being able to race this time of year. Just think of all the broken parts you are not having to buy!! hehe! :)

ezequiel
Call www.nitrohouse.com
They have the backplate and whatever parts you need. They also have a 1-800 number at the top of their website.

Glad you got it criusn' Marciano!

Time to get it dirty now Dustin! LOL!!

Ofna as a new, PERMANENT, ezboard up now.
"0" posts in the Hyper 7 forum..
It needs to be filled it up dudes! (and dudetts if we have any?) :cool:

[redcarrot55]

Does anyone know if the stock Hyper 8 port engine can use 30% nitro fuel? The engine mannual says I need to add shim to get the right timing for the 25% nitro and up, but Ofna tech support says no shim is needed.

Also, I'm breaking in my engine with the factory needle setting and 1/16" carb gap. It idles ok, but as soon as I throttle it up, it stops immediately. I tried to lean it out a bit thinking it could be too rich but didn't help much. I don't want to lean it too much during early break-in. Aany idea what I should do?

Thanks!

[redcarrot55]

Originally posted by windellmc
Marciano1969 - Make a new front swaybar out of 2.0 mm piano wire. Just use an existing swaybar as a pattern. Run the heaviest swaybar you have in the rear. I think it is the black. Run some blue Kyosho or Ofna springs if you haven't. That will also quicken up the handling compared to the black springs.

What's the spring tensions for the following spring set from the weakest to the strongest?

hyper 7stock purple
hyper 7 stock black
ofna blue (9.5)
ofna white (9.5)
ofna green (9.5)
ofna yellow
ofna red

I just bought the white set but feel like the tension is similar to the blue or black.

Thanks!

[HyperActive]

[QUOTE]Originally posted by soslo
[B]It should be 40 in the front, and 35 in the rear redcarrot. The holes in my son's are drilled to 55 in front, and 54 in the rear. But I agree... That setup is a little on the soft side.



You guys talk about drilling the piston in the shock to 55-54
What size is that you are refering to??

Does Ofna make differnt size pistions ??

Thanks

[redcarrot55]

Originally posted by HyperActive
[QUOTE]Originally posted by soslo
[B]It should be 40 in the front, and 35 in the rear redcarrot. The holes in my son's are drilled to 55 in front, and 54 in the rear. But I agree... That setup is a little on the soft side.



You guys talk about drilling the piston in the shock to 55-54
What size is that you are refering to??

Does Ofna make differnt size pistions ??

Thanks

http://www.wwforum.com/faqs_articles/DrillChart.html

I think they have only one size for Hyper 7 Pro.

[soslo]

Whites ar supossed to be stiffer than the blue or black, I thought. Haven't looked at the green, yellow, or reds yet.
Post the head shim question on the Ofna board, and put "Head shims for Hyper 8 port??... Rob, Angel, Paul ???" in the subject line.
That should get their attention. Chris gets confused sometimes, and does not always have a good explanation.
Found it is simpler to post things like that. You usually get a better answer.

Sounds like it may be too lean also. What temp. are you breaking it in at?

Just picked up a P5 for son's Hyper. (b/day time)
He kept wanting more bottom end out of the v01b, and I couldn't give him any more, even with the gold clutch springs.
Hopefully this will give him what he desires! LOL!!

Haven't seen any piston options for the shocks. Need to check on that.

Go away rain!!

[windellmc]

If you want stupid bottom end try a Novarossi SBK 01(short stroke 5 port) with drilled out clutch shoes, gold springs, and an 086 pipe with Waller power adaptor. Mine is set up that way and will spin all 4 on damp, sticky clay. Top end isn't as good though. There is supposed to be a 48 tooth spur gear coming out too. The standard is 46.

[glacierdust38]

Okay... one question I have... what's the difference between the Hyper 7 Pro and the Ultra LX Pro that was featured in the March '03 editon of RC Car Action magazine (which I read all about and that this forum was about until I cheched the names and realized it wasn't the same).

[OldskoolGT]

redcarrot55,

It sounds kinda like your engine is loaded up with fuel. While the engine is idling, pinch the fuel line until the engine revs up from being lean and then stop pinching the fuel line. That will get rid of the excess fuel.

glacierdust38,

The Ultra LX is an older buggy made by Hong Hor, It's not competitive with the current crop of high performance buggies. The Hyper 7 is the latest and greatest buggy by HoBao.


soslo,

Let us know how the P5 compares to the VO1B. I am not sure if the P5 is gonna give your son more bottom end than a V01B, but the top end is gonna be way better for that 175' straghtaway.

I am really begining to like my P5 now. It actually has too much low end torque for my track. I was getting too much wheelspin with even the smallest throttle inputs. Maybe a less grippy clutch would help out. And the top end is pretty sweet now that I have leaned it out a bit. I out motored a WS7 powered buggy on the straightaway at my local track the other day.

[soslo]

He should like it OldskoolGT. But he ain't getting it until his b/day!
Also got a Mugen for his GT.
We were considering the Collari or Wasp, but don't know how dependable they are. They are stupid fast though! hehe!!
Found a set of the Ofna ratchet metric allen drivers. Those things are neat!
He shoud have a good b/day, and be set for the Nats. too. Even if he finishes in the F main. LOL!! The main thing is to have fun.

Now if this rain would go away, we may be able to break a new track in this weekend.
(wishful thinking)

[mercenario27]

The New Ofna Board is up Click Here (http://pub77.ezboard.com/bofnaracingnitrotalkback)

[Marciano1969]

I love this car i have got it to hook up pretty good, I am going to crimefighters at all four corners on the car, the car has been out at the track about 7 seven times since built. Never broke anything on it lost the set screw on the center cva but no biggie had a spare, the car is nice out there hooks up in the turn, level flight in the jumps.

Have fun racing everyone!!

[fab]

Finally went out and bought me this damn car (and spend all my money :-( ) It's the french version though, distributed by T2M and called Pirate RS2 pro. 90% the same I guess but came with -front- torsen, new hardened suspension arms and such, 4mm carbon at the front, and a couple of others things I don't remember.

Haven't driven it yet (work work work :-( ) but I should get it on track next weekend :-))

Oh btw:

http://users.pandora.be/fab/RC/112-1272_IMG.JPG

:-))))

(more pics at http://users.pandora.be/fab/RC/ if you want, some are pretty big, be warned)

Can't wait to try it :-)

[LouisB]

Nice car Fab:D

I was down at the track today for practice and my H7 was flying. I had a good race with a Novarossi equipped H7 and a 7.5 K2 with a RB S7, my Hyper 8 port could keep up easily, and had as much if not more punch.

Go here (http://www.grccc.supanet.com/videos.htm) to see a couple of very short AVIs of my car (and the K2) the track is very small but it levels the playing field between people with sport and competition engines. Maybe I should get a P5 for some real punch?

[fab]

Thanks :)

I think once you get at the level of these engines (S7, RZ, ...) it's more how you drive the car then how powerfull your engine is ...

Anyway I'm quite happy with the OS RZ on my hyper 7 (ran it in another car before), I just need a competition pipe :-/

Looks like a fun track, I wish I had a track like that closer to my home. This is the track i go to :

But I have to drive 1 hour to get there so it's only good for the weekends :-(

[fab]

another one

[LouisB]

Nice track! My local track is really small, just like the island I live on. It's difficult to find space to set out a track. On the up side you never have to travel for more than 15mins to get to a track, the island is only square 60km, that track only takes 5 mins to get to.

[Marciano1969]

I have heard everyone say how ofna is not that durable, my friend just got a storm and one the first day he lost the dogbone and broke the rear bulkhead when he landed upside down hard. The hyper pro has been at the track min 7 times, and this is the first time driving offroad in about 5 years first 1/8 owned. The car is very durable for me.

[LouisB]

Mine seems very durable, I did manage to crack the cast knuckle where the screw threads in when I clipped a tire (it was at high speed) but that's the only breakage.

[Marciano1969]

It seems the weather knows when my day off is so it starts raining, during the early part in the week when work and daycare is a issue nice and sunny then when it is my days off rain, rain,rain all day. Maybe next week

[KOLOR KRAFT]

hang in there it will stop the sun is out today it has been about two months since i seen it so i wiil go look directly in it to see what that feels like again.:) :cool:

[RCFAN]

look's like you all like the hyper7.I have been looking at it i think my next rc will be a buggy. what is the difference in the rtr hyper7 and the pro i know one is rtr and all but most if not all the time they change something in a rtr car. i dont mind building it but the rtr cost less that's the thing. and if i do get the rtr should i get a new pipe or is the stock pipe ok .

[coyote660]

rtr means ready to run not ready to rip...if you build the pro you will have some up-grades you'll probably want later...you can choose your own engine, pipe, servos etc...plus you'll know the whole car from building which is half the fun...just my opinion...rtr stock pipe is ok...just ugly.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

The pro does come with all the good hop-ups that is about the only difference. like the tosen diff and all the graphite stuff the rtr stuff you wont like the motor the radio the servos and so forth then you will upgrade anyways you might as well do it now in my opinion so you dont end up with stuff you dont want or isn't any good.:)

[coyote660]

yup...

[KOLOR KRAFT]

EXACTLY..........................:) can you tell what a boring day it is here in ny.

[coyote660]

enjoy the boredom there kraft...from what i hear you poor guys are lookin at gators and rowboats comin up here soon...hang in there bruh...

[rc4me2]

how does the pro stack up against mugens and kyoshos

definately dont see them around as much

don't see why it wouldnt be just as competitive

asking b/c about to make decision on purchase

thanks

[Marciano1969]

I have the pro and it is very durable and fast, all the car handle about the same in the pro level, but some are easier to set up. For the price I think the hyper pro can't be beat, in the 7.5 post there is someone that has driven them both and recomends the hyper pro. When looking to buy a kit, look at what is running at the track and make sure you have some parts available at the local hobby shop, you don't want to send off for small parts that you can get localy. My car has been to the loacal track numerous times with only lossing a set pin in the cva because I didn't use lock tight, my friend just got a pro storm and on the third run at the track broke the rear bulkhead on a roll over, my car has seen alot worse and never skips a beat.

[HyperActive]

Anyone know of any replacement clutch bells for the Ofna Hyper 8 Port for my Hyper 7....
Any part #'s or where to buy on line??
Or any other manufactures compatible with them.....

I would like to get an assortment of smaller clutch bells maybe a 12 or 12 tooth.......

[soslo]

I duunoo if Ofna has a 12 tooth. We got a Mugen bell that works fine. Not sure what they have to offer though.
www.NitroHouse.com carries both. They show 13 thru 18 for the Hyper 7, and 14 - 15 tooth for the Mugen buggy.
You can call and find out for sure. 1-800-928-0304

Aaawwww KolorKraft.!!
It seems to rain every weekend around here. This time of year just plain s----!
Hang in there... It'll be better soon! :)

BTW... These dang universals (they had a shock tower part number on the bag) we got along with the kit when it came over here from Japan do not fit the rear as we were told, but they do fit the front. Don't want universals in the front, only the rear! Ofna said the new universals that are coming out (19348) will fit front or rear. Not so. They need more than one part number if that is the case, as the rear axles are longer.
We will figure this out in time. If and whenever the 19348's finally make it over here we can figure out what they fit.
In the meantime, it is back to cvd's front and rear. Just have a little push we are trying to get rid of, and hopefully universals in the rear will fix that problem.

Get the aluminum rear front suspension plate, #19307, for your buggys also. The plastic one showed itself to be a weak spot. This thing is about as bulletproof as the GT now!

If it wouldn't rain so much, we wouldn't have as much time to dwell on things like this. LOL!!
I be bored too Kolor Kraft! :cool:

[tc3punk]

well hello everyone :)

since I now own a hyper 7 pro, I figure I should post here....

but, I'm making mine electric (brushless)

check out the brushless forum, for info;)

[windellmc]

soslo - Are you using the new rear arms without the adjusters or are you still using the original arms?

[soslo]

The original rear arms with adjusters.
Is there a difference in length between the 2?? :confused:

[soslo]

Just ordered the new rear arms and rear universals from NitroHouse. They just got the rear universals in, and they aren't even in the book yet, but they have em! :)
Lengths are still the same. Short axles up front and long axles in the rear.

Love talking to the people at NitroHouse. They are very, very informative!

windellmc..
Do the new rear arms make a difference in handleing?

Anyone else around Houston running the Hyper?? There have been a couple of rtr's but that is about it.

[rc4me2]

how many people have changed to aluminum or other shock towers?

do the stock graphite ones hold up pretty well, or are they somewhat brittle?

thanks

[soslo]

This Hyper has gone through endless endoes, upside down landings, and collisions. It has bent a front cva, bent a shock shaft, and broken the rear front (plastic) suspension plate.
But never have the graphite towers broken or splintered. They are holding up very well. :)

[haittmax]

soslo, whats the part number on those arms? what are they made of? what color? :D :D thanx man....p.s. how much? got a pic?.....................thanx man, Mike

[soslo]

They are the same numbers as the old arms. They just got upgraded in production. Stronger, thicker plastic, and still black.
The fronts are 19024 ($9.95)
The buggy and manual are at my son's, (he is putting the P5 in) but the rears should have the same number as the old ones also. Ofna just made them stouter, and did away with the adjusters.(less problems) I didn't get the part number when I ordered them today.
You can call NitroHouse and double check though.

[windellmc]

The new front and rear arms narrow the car a little. That makes the CVAs fit perfectly. They would almost fall out with the old arms. The new arms are about the stiffest, toughest arms available in 1/8.

[soslo]

We have had the front arms for a few weeks, just never put them on. Didn't know they were shorter though, or else they would have already been on.
Had a very slight bend in the left front axle, and it kept popping out. Had to set the camber way in to keep it in place until the new axles came. Also put limiters on the outside shock shafts
to limit the upward travel.
Glad to hear the axles fit better now!
Thank you very much windellmc! :)

[Marciano1969]

Soslo you run the front axles instead of the cva's ? My hyper runs cva's allthe way around is there any benfit to running axle's instead of the cva's. Do you run the cva's in the rear and center ?

[soslo]

Marciano.. This one has full cva's all through it also.
We drug out the old XX4 and were looking at it, and remembered that we did not put cvd's in the rear of it because they caused the car to push.

The Hyper 7 has a slight push in it. When Ofna posted the new universals in the "new products" section, we thought we would give them a try in the rear to see if it would get rid of the push.

We have had some ordered for a while, and the lhs finally said they could not get them yet. NitroHouse just got them in stock yesterday, so I ordered a set to try on the rear.
After trying to get them forever, I hope they stop the pushing! LOL!!

I also noticed the new rtr pbs Hyper has universals for the rear axles, and cva's up front.. Wonder why? Think they figured something out also?
Just keeping my fingers crossed! :)

The Hyper is a great buggy anyway, but by the time Ofna gets done with it, the 7.5 is in for some very stiff competition.
The Hyper ain't weak no more!
This one surely won't be! :)
The 7.5 gang was dogging us when I got the Hyper Pro for my son. We are going to make them eat those 7.5's! LOL!! It's all for fun! Just had to be different! :cool:

You gonna' make it to Round 1 of the Central Division RC Pro Series in a couple of weeks?? Come on down!
www.teamhoustonrc.com
www.rcproseries.com

[Marciano1969]

Keep us posted if the push is gone mine seems to do the same, made some changes but they have not been track tested yet. The weather down here just did a 180 and don't know when the rain will stop or freezing weather, Texas go figure.

[soslo]

I heard on the weather ya'll are getting it pretty bad up there.
Houston, and the crazy drivers we have, is bad enough. I would sure hate to see them try to drive on ice! LOL!! Seems like the worse the weather is, the faster they drive.
Just a lot of cold rain now.

The rear arms and rear universals should be in this week. If the weather ever improves, we will try them out.

Bring your buggy's down here for the Pro Series race! It should be a blast!

[HyperActive]

My hyper 7 pro came with 17, 20, 22 degre c hub carriers, what is the benift in theses differnt size's?

What should I see in performance??

[windellmc]

soslo - How much was Nitrohouse charging for the new universals? I hear they are almost indestructible.

HyperActive - You should try the 20 and 22 degree hubs. They make the car easier to drive and faster. I like the 22 best but some like the 20. I think the 22 are more stable at high speed but the 20 might have more low speed steering. I have only used the 20 for one race so far. I have used the 22 a lot so that might be why I like them more.

[soslo]

The universals are around $45.00, give or take. I forget exactly what it was. I ordered more things also, so I was mainly after the total. The PCR chassis braces are $45.00 each, so we decided the stock aluminum braces work pretty good afeter all! :)

[Marciano1969]

Those pcr parts look real nice, but the aren't cheap over 200 for all the parts. I will use the stock pro parts untill they wear out or break and then see how much the parts being made by kolor kraft go for.

[HyperActive]

Thanks for the Hub info....

Goodbye Hyper 8 port, I have had enough of that engine.....

So RB concepts semms to be the talk of the town......
S7 or WS7
Any suggestions on which is a better engine?

My Track is kind of short and lots of turns and 4 or 5 jumps...
I want some bottom end so I can get out of the turns fast.....

Or is there any other motors besides the RB?
I dont want to spend more than 300.00 to 350.00 for one.

Thanks guys , you have been great on here helping me out..

[OldskoolGT]

The rear universals for a Kyosho 7.5 will also drop right into the rear of the Hyper 7.


Ofna is way out of touch with reality with their PCR parts pricing IMHO. People don't buy Hyper 7s so they can slap the most expensive aftermarket parts on them. That stuff is more expensive than Racer's Edge, Hardcore, Fioroni, etc. And much of it really isn't needed because the parts that come on the Hyper 7 are pretty good. Many of those parts actually look inferior in strength compared to the stock parts. Sorry, just had to rant there.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

Originally posted by HyperActive
Thanks for the Hub info....

Goodbye Hyper 8 port, I have had enough of that engine.....

So RB concepts semms to be the talk of the town......
S7 or WS7
Any suggestions on which is a better engine?

My Track is kind of short and lots of turns and 4 or 5 jumps...
I want some bottom end so I can get out of the turns fast.....

Or is there any other motors besides the RB?
I dont want to spend more than 300.00 to 350.00 for one.

Thanks guys , you have been great on here helping me out..

IMHO i like the S7 but i have both the WS7 is the race motor so they say the S7 is my back-up and the track is medium in length with alot of big double jumps (if you can meke them) WS has a little more power but can't use it all and some people make a big deal about the coating on it but really i should have bought two S7 and saved about 70.00 dollars i think is the difference now. so i like the S7 excellant price and awsome power i feel you cant beat it for just over 200.00 in my opinion. the os is supposed to be really good too i think you have to ask soslo i thought he had one?

[OldskoolGT]

HyperActive,

for a small tight track you are probably gonna want a motor with lots of low end torque, which is where the S7/WS7 is lacking.

The new talk of the town is the Rex P5. It has a lot of low end power and a respectable top end as well. Its $230 at Nitrohouse.

[HyperActive]

As far as pipes and headers go , is the stock pirate pipe that came in my Hyper 7 pro good enough for those engines?
Or should I look in to a new tuned pipe or what???

What are you guys running on yours??

[Marciano1969]

I am runing the ofna one piece pipe 063, it seems to give me low end on the track. Hey oldskoolgt did you ever get the pm I sent you ?

[Stormxxxnt]

I would like to put a truck body on my 1/8 buggy, does anyone make one large enough. Have any of you done this?

The track I race at puts me in the monster truck class because
I am the only one with 1/8 buggy. I would like to make my buggy
look more appropriate for the class I have to run in.

[soslo]

Keep the front cva's in for better steering. The universals wouldn't steer as well.
The buggy steers great, just tring to get rid of the push.

Yep.. Those PCR parts ain't cheap.
The sad thing is also.. There isn't even a rear front suspension plate listed for the PCR parts. That is what is needed most. The rest is just expensive eye candy, IMO.
This buggy will keep the purple braces and suspension plates also.

The O.S. RZ-V01b is great. Easy to tune and very dependable. Just looking for something with a little more fuel mileage now.
Therfore the P5. From what we saw of it in a Storm, it has awsome bottom end, and top speed both. We shall see. :)
We are still using the O.S. 2030 pipe. People we know that have tried the new 2050 weren't all that impressed with it.
We are waiting for the rest of the parts (they should be here tomorrow) before we drop the P5 in, so we should get it going this weekend, and I will let ya'll know how it goes.

Kolor Kraft.. Don't get uptight about Noob! hehe! He is harmless.

So those plates and things should be reasonably priced? I gotta keep these graphite towers :) , but the plates are a good possibility.
Any braces on the horizon?

Opinions?
Would the hinge pins wear the aluminum or titanium plates worse?

[KOLOR KRAFT]

soslo we are working on hinge pins with the plates i think that is the only way they will work right now you wear the little plates with the pins that are in there don't you.

ya i now noob or boob is harmless but the dude doesn't even have a 7 yet just thought he should no about the uprades.

hey i still have the graphite stuff one there also the is nothing wrong with them but you can't beet the ti i will be changing them when they are done though at least with alunimun stuff you can still finish the race with them a little bent the graphite ones usually snap and you are done you no what i meen.:D :D

[windellmc]

soslo - If you want to change rear toe in the PCR rear hinge plate will let you do it at 2, 2.5, and 3 degrees. The stock setting is 3. Are you running the hinge pin holder from the front end or rear end in your car? You know the rear end one gives about 8 degrees of antisquat which can make the car a little squirelly on rough tracks. You can use the one from the front end of the car to get antisquat down to a reasonable level.

[soslo]

windellmc..
Are you talking about the front rear holder (plastic) or the very front plate (aluminum) when you say to put the front on the rear?
My simple mind gets confused! hehe!!
:confused:
My driver says he wants to stay with the 3 degree because he said he gets enough traction the way it is. I may get the PCR plates to try anyway.

Kolor Kraft..
You make a great salesman! You were already prepared for my hinge pin question. :cool:
Let us know when you get the parts ready, and we will see what he wants to do then. I am just his sponsor and pit b---- and have no say so about what he wants to modify. He is the driver! :)
Noob always has something to say about everything. He is just Noob. Take him with a grain of salt. I think he is trying for the most posts. He is like a kid in a candy store.

Storm..
Contact www.nitrohouse.com 1-800-928-0304 and see if they can help you. Or check out www.prolineracing.com They may have something also.

[KOLOR KRAFT]

i try soslo O and thanks for sending another snowstorm my way and another one right behind it you are the MAN:)

[soslo]

LMAO!! hehe!! I was wondering why it was clearing up around here?
It has been cold and raining here, as usual.
Rain is supossed to be back Saturday night or Sunday. It's just that time of year.
Hang in there! :cool:

[Marciano1969]

I was fianally able to run at the track today, the cloud has lifted around me, We went down to victoria and ran on there track, was alot better than the track here in S.A. way to small for 1/8 scale. The setup given in here worked great all I need to do is get a new set of crimefighters for the back, and more practice. The car was handleing great just my driving that hampered me car. So far very happy with the hyper 7.

[windellmc]

Use the stock plastic lower hinge pin holder that is on the front diff case (back of the case) to replace the stock rear plastic lower hinge pin holder (on the front of the rear diff case). Or you can get the aluminum version. Try the plastic first and see if you like it.

[Crashbot2001]

soslo, you will like it! I wouldn't bother with the aluminum one though, unless you got money you don't need. You won;t hurt the plastic one.

I have also heard of people useing the one they removed from the rear to replace the one they removed from the front. Changes the kisck-up angle of the front arms slightly. So, basically a swap between the diffs. I haven;t tried this second tuning option yet, but you might try it. Don;t even need to buy any parts!

[LouisB]

Sounds interesting, is this f/r r/f swap a good idea on very bumpy tracks? My sort of mod, free:D

[windellmc]

Putting the front mount on the rear diff case will help out rear traction going through bumps. Putting the rear mount on the front diff case will give more steering but take away rough track handling. It will also decrease the castor angle. So you might be running 17 degrees of castor with the 20 degree front hub carriers (That's just a guess on numbers but it will be less castor). I think running the rear mount on the front diff is similar to Kyosho's B block on the 7.5. However, Kyosho also supplies a new upper arm mount to go with this lower mount.

[LouisB]

I've changed from the 17* to 22* blocks recently and I don't know if it'll work as well on the tight track so less caster won't be a problem. I'll try it and see how it goes:)

[HyperActive]

Originally posted by soslo

The O.S. RZ-V01b is great. Easy to tune and very dependable. Just looking for something with a little more fuel mileage now.
Therfore the P5. From what we saw of it in a Storm, it has awsome bottom end, and top speed both. We shall see. :)



Are you replacing the Os with the P5??

if so how is the P-5 compared to the WS7 or S7 or OS RZ
Not sure which one would be good in Hyper 7 pro on a Med track.....
Need some bottom end for getting out of the turns.
Anything that is better than my 8 port Hyper .21

I'm just not sure what to get.....I just have 400.00 burning a hole in my pocket!!

[Marciano1969]

I have seen where someone has drilled there piston out to a number size ie: 54,55. What is the size drill bit used on the sizes, I have seen a chart in a thread but now don't know where it was any help you can give would be apperatied. Thank you

[Marciano1969]

I found it thanks guys, did a goggle search for it and printed out serval lists .

[tarvymoto]

Marciano , Racers Edge makes a set of hands drill bits for pistons....sizes 59-54

[tarvymoto]

triple post

[tarvymoto]

triple post

[soslo]

The shock pistons, #19014, have been changed in production. They have #55 holes now.

The universals, #19347, are for the c-hub version, and fit nicely with the new arms.
They are also shorter than longer original cva's on the rear, and fit both the front and rear nicely. The originals rear cva's (longer) with the new arms semed like they wanted to bind in upward travel, with the new arms. They were too far in on the outdrive cup.
The uniersals will not fit with the old longer rear arms either.
We are just using the 19347's on the rear.

The new shorter arms make the buggy steer a lot quicker also. (it was already quick enough!) May have to change those front/rear blocks, if it gets too twitchy on the tracks.

We found out if you grind the chassis at the tweek screw plates downward into a "V", it will give the arms longer down travel, to help on rough tracks also.
The new arms are somewhat cut out for that purpose anyway.

Universals #19348 are for the pivot ball suspension.
The person we bought this kit (Japan....HoBao..not Ofna) from is hopefully getting the pivot ball version of the HoBao Pro kit from Japan today. (if his co-worker picked one up for him) It should be sweet! :)

Got 5 tanks through the P5 yesterday. It is very easy to tune, and shows promise of being every bit as dependable as the the v01b. It is also a veerrry perky lil' motor. It wants to gooooo!! hehe!! My driver (son) was grinning from ear to ear. We are going to put it on the track and see how it does today. (weather permitting)

Happy Racing All! :cool:

[rc4me2]

this year...

what wheels and tires does the buggy come with?

and the pipe that is included...is it designed for high or low-rpm output?

thanks

[rc4me2]

also...does this kit still include the set of 4 metric hex wrenches and a torsen (as well as std.) diff?

what about diff fluid...included?

thanks

[Marciano1969]

The kits seem to come with different tires and rims, the kit will include the torsen diff, bag, and the meteric wrenches you will need to pick up some diff oil or greese.

[rc4me2]

what seems to work well on this buggy for diff fluid weight....front, center, and rear?

will be running on relatively high-bite tracks, from hard packed to semi-loamy

thanks

[Marciano1969]

I use 5k front, 7k, center and the 1k rear. You can use 5k or 3k in the front and 10k or 7k center and then 1k or light greese in the rear, I think you have to set the car up to how you like it to drive, mine has crimefighters at all four and it seems to work i run the black sway bar in the rear and made one out of 2mm wire for the front (got that idea from a racer in here).

[HyperActive]

Torsen Differential

[HyperActive]

Newbie question here.....

On the center Torsen Differential part #145075 that comes in the Hyper 7 pro kit.

Do you or can you fill it with the regular diff oil.
Not sure because it looks like it has grease in on the gears.

Thanks

[Marciano1969]

On the torsen diff you only fill the diff with grease, on the thread most use the regular diff for all three, I had the torsen diff in the center that made the car have a problem with on power push, moved to regular diff all around and hooking up great.

[HyperActive]

I have it in the middle and havent had any problems.

When I built the kit I didnt have the right oil for the front and rear.
So im rebuilding them tonight with the correct oil and was wondering about the center one, it being a differnt Diff I wasnt sure if it required oil like the Reg diffs......

When you said diff grease? do you mean like diff oil the 5000 7000 10000
Not sure what you meant????

Sorry to be newbie but we were all newbies at one time. thats why were on here, huh

Oh and what is power push...????

[LouisB]

HyperActive, I think you can only use special Torsen diff oil in the Torsen diff, the standard silicone diff oil is bad for it:confused:

"On power push" is under-steering when accelerating, it’s caused by the front not getting enough grip and ploughing on through the corners.

I tried the front/rear block swap, it worked well. The rear end was much more controllable under acceleration through the bumps, but I prefer the standard front blocks so I’ll pick up some more:)
I was running light oil and standard pistons but I think I’ll drill out the pistons and use some heavier oil.

[soslo]

The new pistons are already 55, in case you want to save the original ones. (back a few posts)
Since your kit is new, it may have the 55's already.

Part #19100
PBS upgrade kit for Hyper 7
www.nitrohouse.com
1-800-928-0304
Rob (Ofna webmaster) just posted they were in. Thought ya'll may like to know.
:cool: :)

[HyperActive]

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
My Hyper 7 pro came with a 46 tooth spur gear.

Do you thin that the 50 tooth 9.5 RTR gear will work on mine?

[soslo]

Just left you HyperActive!! LOL!!
Check out your post on the Ofna board. :)

[HyperActive]

I'm all over the place!!!!! LOL


Nitro House doesn't seem that helpful to me. I get more info on the boards than from them. They are always hesitant when asked a question, usually they answer a question with a question.

Does Ofna make a 48?

I think I will try a few different ones if I can find them...
Maybe a 50 with a 14 or 15 clutch bell.

Do you use the Ofna Clutch?
I seen these from Option Team 3 & 4 Shoe clutches from GS silicones. Not sure how they work.http://www.generalsilicones.com/optteamparts.html

I'm use to 1/10 stuff/ My HPi had a nice adjustable racing clutch.

T minus 1 day to my Rex P-5

[OldskoolGT]

Ofna does not make any other size spur gears for the Hyper 7 right now. If you want a 48 tooth spur gear, you will need the entire Kyosho center diff assembly. You will also need to add some washers underneath the center diff mount and trim some material off of the radio tray for gear clearance with the 48 tooth spur.

[windellmc]

I don't think you will need a 48 unless you are running an S7. Most other engines have good torque with the 46.

[soslo]

Just posted on the Ofna board..
Ofna is coming out with a 48 spur for the Hyper, but you will have to shim the diff.

[soslo]

Forgot.. The 3 shoe Ofna clutch, with the gold (stiff) springs, works great.

[tarvymoto]

HyperActive , did you get the P5 today? How does it look? Blue head or purple?
I ordered one from NitroHouse myself...should be here Tuesday.

:cool:

[HyperActive]

Got it today!!!!


Blue Head.....

Break in tomorrow!!

Will let you know how it does!!

Cant wait.....

[soslo]

The P5 is a dog.
You may as well go ahead and give it to me to save yourself the frustration of trying to make it run! j/k :)

You may want to richen the top screw about a turn or so for break-in.
We broke in this one, and turned the top screw in maybe 3/8 of a turn, and the thing was screaming! Haven't even touched the bottom screw.
It seems like a pretty sweet little motor. Going to a track tomorrow with a 200' straight to let it stretch it's legs, and see what it is really capable of.

Good luck! Hope yours goes as easily as this one did! :cool:

What is the deal about a purple head?
This one has a blue head also.

[tarvymoto]

solso , when I went on Novarossi's sight the P5 was picture with a blue head , but the description said purple. So I just wanted to ask. I prefer the blue.

[HyperActive]

Originally posted by LouisB


I tried the front/rear block swap, it worked well. The rear end was much more controllable under acceleration through the bumps, but I prefer the standard front blocks so I’ll pick up some more:)

Can you explain the Block Swap to me??

Is it these part #'s you swap??

Front 19038 & 1940

[LouisB]

Nearly;)

You swap the plastic part #19038 with the similar plastic part in the front. The part behind the front diff with the part in front of the rear diff.

I think it is better to buy the part for the front and put it on the back as the font kick-up is about right with the stock set-up, part #19030

http://www.ofna.com/images/man-hyp7pro-4.jpg

[kreidel1]

Louis B....So you are going to run the front blocks on both ends instead of running the front in back and back in the front?

[LouisB]

Yep

[HyperActive]

Originally posted by tarvymoto
HyperActive , did you get the P5 today? How does it look? Blue head or purple?
I ordered one from NitroHouse myself...should be here Tuesday.

:cool:


THE P 5 ROCKS!!!!

I see whatcha ya mean Soslo it wants to gooooooooooo.
Lots of bottom end and plenty of power.
I should of bought this one before I wasted all my time on that 8 port Hyper .21

So after 4 tanks and a parking block I need a Lower front arm.
Hit it just right and it snapped at the hinge pin!!
And nobody stocks these parts, only Tmaxx stuff @ my LHS.

[HyperActive]

You guys talk about useing the Kyosho Blue springs on you buggys.........


What about the Ofna Blue springs or the Black ones.....

Or the White ones, green,
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/WTI0096p?&N=N&C=&F=OFNC3229&L=OFNC4253&S1=OFNA&S2=SHOCKS&S3=&S4=

[OldskoolGT]

HyperActive,

The blue Ofna springs are very similar in spring rate to the Kyosho blue springs. If you race, they should work well for you.

[HyperActive]

What should a normal run time be with a NIMH Receiver Battery?
I have a 1100mah Trinity Receiver Pack, it is about 6 months old.

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXVG14&P=7
Seems to me my Nimh is not keeping up with my buggy, I am only getting about 4 tanks of run time out of the battery.

Has anyone have any suggestions?
How about a 6 Cell 2150mAh NiMH Flat pack that are used in Airplanes???

Check them out.....
http://www.hobby-lobby.com/hydride.htm
scroll to the Bottom of the page
Or here http://www.superbatterypacks.com/orderform.htm

[LouisB]

I get about 2 hours run time with a OFNA 1000mAh pack and a digital steering servo. Actually I've never managed to flatten it, I top it up after every couple of hours. I have a failsafe with low battery cut-off in my H7 and it has never cut off.

What are you using to charge it? One thing that could help would be to discharge it fully and recharge (cycle) it few times as it should help revive the pack. I use the same charger that I use for charging my electric race packs, at 0.7-0.9 A charge current with a 20-30mV peak cut-off and it gets around 1150mAh every time.

[HyperActive]

I was using a over night charger until my battery died at the track and I had no way of charging it....
So I got a MRC Superbrain 959.
I charged the pack 3 times now with it.
I charged it at .05
Maybe the pack has a bad cell....

I might try the 6 Cell 2150mAh NiMH Flat pack from Hobby Lobby.

Or this one from Tower
http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLX50&P=7

[Marciano1969]

Was able to get at the track today the car ran great, went to cellblock tires and they seem to work when the track got a blue groove on it. Had a part break on me first part so far the front a arm split where the hinge pin slides through it, had a spare so no biggie. The car handles nice just need to get out there and practice more. Sure is fun trying to drive.......lol

[OldskoolGT]

HyperActive,

Even if you have 2 digital servos, you should probably be getting at least 40 minutes of run time before your battery back is too low. Nitrohouse has really cheap 1000 mah NiMh packs if you are interested.

[dlandsv]

I don't think you want to use a six pack battery pack unless the receiver and servos can handle 7.2 volts. In addition, the voltage from a pack of 6 1.2 cells will actually be more than 7.2 volts.

4 batteries at 1.2 volts = 4.8 volts
5 batteries at 1.2 volts = 6.0 volts
6 batteries at 1.2 volts = 7.2 volts

If you are not getting enough run time from the 1000 mAh 5 cell pack then I suggest you get some 5 cell 1.2 1800 or higher packs. The total mAh from a 5 pack of 1800s is equal to 9000mAh compared to a 1000mAh (5000mAh) pack.

The 1800mAh/2000mAh pack has early twice capacity and should give you nearly twice the run time.

[Marciano1969]

Went to the track yesterday, made sme changes to the front diff noe running 3k it seems to had made the difference the rear end was getting a little more traction than before. I had 5k in the front and it was just pulling the car all over the place now it handles great. I also used a dremal to open up the front graphite brace a little the steering linkage was hitting it just a tad.

[soslo]

Originally posted by HyperActive
THE P 5 ROCKS!!!!

I see whatcha ya mean Soslo it wants to gooooooooooo.
Lots of bottom end and plenty of power.
I should of bought this one before I wasted all my time on that 8 port Hyper .21

So after 4 tanks and a parking block I need a Lower front arm.
Hit it just right and it snapped at the hinge pin!!
And nobody stocks these parts, only Tmaxx stuff @ my LHS.

Hyper...
If you experience a loss of bottom end when the P5 gets good and hot, it is not the clutch. The bottom end is too lean, no matter what the temp. says. (this one runs around 230, give or take)
It is a lean condiion. Richen the bottom screw about 1/4 to 1/2 a turn. You will notice MUCH improvement!
Sometimes it would pull the V01b's just a little down the straight, and other times not. Just hard to tell on top speed. But definately more on the bottom end! :)

On another note..
I temp'd a v01b at 282 (with the raytek gun) and the guy came unglued.
We compared mine to 2 others. His read around 240, mine read around 260, and the other one read it as around 280.
Has anyone else run into this difference with the raytec guns?

[HyperActive]

I was getting a little sputter after I would release the gas after being full on throttle....so I played with the 2 screws untill I t was running with out the sputter.

Not sure of factory screw settings, the manual dosent say much!!

It is running pretty fast now. I have been breaking the engine in on asphalt with some sticky on road tires, I will try it at the track this weekend.

It has tons of bottom end and still running around 230 - 240 and that is wide open on the asphalt.