.21 tmaxx front and rear end

[kountryboy]

Well i finally got my .21 tmaxx ready to go played with it about 20 mins and i heard the death click outta the front and rear end.I took both of them apart and the gears on both pinions were gone it has or had the stock front and rearend in it what do i need to keep this from happening again thanks :confused:

[RrR]

Losen your slipper might help or get 1/8 scale diffs and cases

[kountryboy]

Which ones will fit where can i find them i was thinking of getting the maximizer ultra front and rear end are they any good????

[Duster_360]

Don't know anyone running Maxximizer's ultra diffs, matter of fact, just went to Maxximizer and read about them. If they last and work like advertised, nifty concept.

I went with FLM alum diff cups and a set of cheapy integy alum housings and alum diff collars for the FR18 and then the OS 18TM I'm currently running. Behind a full set of RD Logics CVDs I've had no drive line probs.

Stock plastic diff housings twist under the load a stronger motor puts thru them. When it does, it lets ring and pinion come out of mesh - bingo, which ever is weaker, gets teeth stripped. Only thing with FLM kit - includes no shims and shimming is crucial for diffs life. I bought shims from McMaster Carr. Mine were a little tight initially, but now are smooth and ready for a lot more use and abuse. The integy cases I got from a Hong Kong shop (RCX) when they were half what they cost today. Just putting alum diff cup and new gears back in stock housings will get you more stripped gears. Gotta have some kind of metal diff housing to provide some extra support and strength.

http://www.fastlanemachine.com/PublicPortal/TMaxxDiffCupandModifiedGears/tabid/78/Default.aspx

The only other option is to go UE 6 or 8 gear diffs in their ultralite cases, but that requires regearing and is expensive. I'm building a supermaxx, gathering parts right now and its going to be well over a grand before its over. But I want to do it right and will take my time buying a little here and there. It'll have a 27Picco 1st and then an OS30, so its needs to be strong.

[kountryboy]

Do the flm's come with spider gears and all minus the diff housings

[3115ultima]

how old was your original gears? You could look into RRP hardened steel gears but the stock gears are hardened too. I think maybe your original gears were worn out or not shimmed right. Also check you bearings in your housings cause they could be sloppy and causeing the gears to spread.

[kountryboy]

The gears looked good they werent shimmed and the bearings were good i think its just the power of the .21 motor that ate them up because the gears on my stock maxx arent shimmed and i havent had any trouble out of them and i give that truck a very hard time.

[Duster_360]

Do the flm's come with spider gears and all minus the diff housings

No, just new ring and pinion gears, screws and the diff cup. The ring gear has been drilled for the larger 3mm screws that the alum diff cups enables you to use. Its hardened steel and unless you've got carbide countersink tool, you'll have a heck of a time getting a stock one drilled out for the new screws.

[RespirologyRC]

Kountryboy, don't waste your money on the RRP stuff. What your experiencing with your diffs has happened to all of us. Like Duster said you will NEED A ALUMINUM DIFF housing!!!!!!!! Just go out and buy a new Traxxas Ring and pinion $10.00, and your done. The spider gears should be fine; these rarely break but by adding shims to them you will never break them again. Lastly when I firsted experience this problem I immediately went out and bought RRP's ring and pinion set (comes with shims and grease), but it cost me $45.00, I blew these in 10minutes. So then I sent them back to RRP because they are guaranteed for like, and also replaced my Diff housing. I have yet to install this RRP kit because my stock gears have not stripped or acted funny at all.