View Full Version : Burnt phase?
TimisTim
11-28-2005, 02:19 PM
I know it is possible to burn up a phase by having the motor screws short out on the inernal windings of a motor, but how would I tell if one had?
One of my motor wires let out a little poof of smoke yesterday nothing major at all just a tiny puff and there is a small hole in the covering of the wire where it had melted.
I shimmed out the motor screws a little more just incase they were to deep. It still runs fine and doesn't cogg even at low speed, but does seem a little slower than usual. I have to do another run on it because the battery I was using is an older 3S lipo and may be having a hard time with voltage drop. Also I snapped a rear hub carrier. :o
TimisTim
11-30-2005, 12:36 AM
Anyone......oh well I just took a photo of my setup. Its an updated version.....
Hpi MT2 with heavy duty chassis
MGM16016 with polyvinyloxiane coating the openings to waterproof it (never overheats by the way)
Feigao 540C 9L wish starluck had a 7L or 8L in the "C" motors
I usually run a 3S lipo on an 8S motor but have to run 4S on the "C" can the one in the truck is an older 6300 3S.
Airtronics FM super micro receiver.
Bluebird metal geared high speed/torque servo.
Aluminum hubs and "C" clips all the way around, the only parts on the whole truck I have ever broken by the way.
And thank god for Gorilla straps and industrial strength velcro it can hold anything in place. I had a huge crash that bent my aluminum motor mount like a pretzel, and pulled one of my gold plugs clean out of controller (which I soldered back in). Nothing else in the whole truck budged or bent.
cart213
11-30-2005, 12:35 PM
Sorry to go off topic, but how fast is your MT2 with that setup? Did you snap an aluminum hub carrier in your crash?
kufman
11-30-2005, 01:00 PM
Normally if you short out a winding the motor will not want to turn well at all. Where is the hole in the wire? Where it exits the motor? If you can get a picture of the suspect area it would help.
TimisTim
11-30-2005, 02:22 PM
@cart....I would say it will hit mid fourties on the gearing I have in it now (12/49) on 4S, but the amount of power it puts to the ground is awesome. Takes no time at all to get up to speed and is very controllable with the 4wd. The hub carrier is the stock plastic that I was just driving until it broke so I could put my aluminum one on. This truck is bulletproof with a stronger chassis (titanium from f4iracing would be ideal $80), and aluminum hub carriers. I am going to try to get a spine milled for a top deck to help with chassis flex since I bent the stocker on a LARGE jump and a bad landing.
@kufman...I will have some pics shortly that are of alot better quality once my camera battery charges. The burn is in the middle of the bottom red wire, nothing to major at all but the copper inside is a little black as well. It did this on the last install when I put the cold fusion motor plate in while I was testing the car and setting the gear mesh.
Well I am hoping that I didnt weaken one phase it if that is possible.
Cold Fusion
11-30-2005, 02:29 PM
The puff of smoke was probably from the lacquer that the wires are coated in. If this gets melted and the wires short, then it will weaken the phase. Depending how bad the damage is, you may or may not see a difference in power.
TimisTim
11-30-2005, 03:08 PM
pic of my wires
TimisTim
11-30-2005, 03:13 PM
andrew....heres one for you.......
TimisTim
11-30-2005, 03:18 PM
sorry guys last one, but who the hell has dial-up nowadays........
kufman
11-30-2005, 09:23 PM
Looks like the wire is broken inside the insulation on that wire. I had the same thing on my Avoex. I ended up cutting it back and reterminating it. It might be weak right now since you can't get as much current in that phase. With all the little strands connected it is like a piece of 14AWg wire. With it partially broken you might be getting something more like 18 or 20AWG ampacity. It is fixable, but it might take while.
TimisTim
11-30-2005, 11:44 PM
Its just the one wire that is broken in the bundle so I dont think it would hurt the current carrying capacity.
kufman
12-01-2005, 03:14 PM
It isn't just one burnt strand of wire, it is a strand of actual winding that is not getting energized.
TimisTim
12-01-2005, 03:24 PM
Ahhhhhh, I get what your saying....I wasn't thinking of it like that. Makes alot of sense now. I guess I can just cut the wire down to the point of the break and resolder my plug.
kufman
12-01-2005, 04:02 PM
That is what I did on my aveox.
starluckrc
12-01-2005, 06:50 PM
If you don't get the lacquer coating off every single strand though, you may be headed in the opposite direction.
TimisTim
12-01-2005, 11:11 PM
So the laquer will interfere with the electrical conductivity of the wires? So basically Im screwed.
OptimaMan
12-01-2005, 11:59 PM
No, you have to scrape off the epoxy or lacquer of each and every strand and then solder them. Just take your time and do it slowly taking care not to bend the wires around too much or else you'll create "hot spots" in the wiring.
That's what I did to my B508s and 6s which were my FIRST brushless motors in order to shorten the leads coming out of the motor.
TimisTim
12-02-2005, 02:01 AM
Oh I see! Well it doesn't sound to hard just time consuming. Guess I know what I'm doing this Sunday. :rolleyes:
kufman
12-02-2005, 08:13 AM
If you don't get the lacquer coating off every single strand though, you may be headed in the opposite direction.
ya, that takes a while. If you take your time and do it right, the motor is good as new.