Kyosho Lazer ZX-5 4WD off-road buggy

[Ultima Pro XL]

This always makes me laugh. Because a couple of US manufacturers use hex screws as standard you assume that they are worldwide "standard" type of screw used, and you automatically expect everyone to use them ;)

I'm not arguing for or against hex vs other types, just informing you that the world is a big place, and what you consider "standard" may not be standard to others.

The two BIGGEST manufacturers in rc, Tamiya and Kyosho have always used phillips screws - you'd think you would be used to it by now ;)

Corally and Schumacher use torx screws, and Schumacher also use posi drive screws (far worse than phillips IMO). So there is a big variety out there, usually depending upon where the car is made.

They're only screws, I don't think its a big deal, unless you can't work out how to use a screwdriver :p :D

I absolutely agree with you! But I'll say that I HATE Hex screws! I've almost always run Kyosho cars and just a few US cars. I don't find them any easier to use and I think when they do strip out it's much more difficult to remove. I converted my Inferno 777 S1 to Hex just because it was the thing to do and now I can't stand them at all. I can disassemble all of my Kyosho cars with one nice comfortable Mac screw driver. But it takes a $60.00 box of Losi hex drivers to disassemble my other cars.

[oOple]

This always makes me laugh. Because a couple of US manufacturers use hex screws as standard you assume that they are worldwide "standard" type of screw used, and you automatically expect everyone to use them ;)


hehe
im not looking to argue, ive had enough of that, but you are right AND wrong.

in R/C you can say hex is in a minority, easily. Almost all rtr and fun vehicle use posidrive / phillips type because thats what people use and have at home.

but the vast majority of "racing" cars use hex, i can only think of kyosho that doesnt. Im talking tamiya, hpi, ae, losi, yokomo, academy, thunder tiger, the list is endless. In racing it IS the norm, not the exception.

Kyosho doesnt and i guess never has, but you look at the final production zx5 at the worlds, driven by pavidis and screwed together by hirosaka and it uses hex, as does the 2wd prototype.

The advantages / disagvantages give both types of screws a place in RC, one for fun & RTR, one for racing. If you are working on a car all the time, hex screws are simply easier and longer lasting.

Ive said my controversial peice, so am prepared to be shot down as i seem to be on this thread :p , but no matter, have a look around at any "racing" car, and youll see.. im not making it up & im not paid by the hex screw industry :D

I was happy to do the hex screw review for the kyosho, because I know most racers will want this upgrade.

[hardadz]

Well I might as well add my two cents worth. I have been in the hobby business since 1984 and have heard all the complaints about screws that I would ever want to hear, lol. first, you need good tools !!! Tamiya and others have always used phillips screws and I have found that the one of best screwdrivers out there is a snap-0n, in # 1, #2, and at times # 3 size. You also need a 1/8". 3/16th. and 1/4" flat blade screwdriver. If you have these in a quality driver and know how to PROPERLY use them, you should not have a problem. I would also like to point out that some of the tools put out by the "names" in RC are not worth a pot to pee in. You might also want to add two Pozi-drive screwdrivers to your arsenal as they will grip some of the screws that you will inevitably strip out. Hex head are good if you dont overtighten them, ever try to get a flathead hex drive screw out of the chassis bottom? So, by adding my two cents I am saying to buy quality tools and learn how to use them the right way.

[redbaron]

I'll take the hex screws anyday.....save the phillips screws for drywall!

[YR4Dude]

Okay,

Enough about the screws. In all my experience with Kyosho including their gas kits( and I'm talking about the race versions not the RTRs), they've never used hex screws.

But then the phillips screws they used were self tappers which were easier to deal with and also had a better bite into the composite parts. So I am little surprised that the screws in this(ZX-5) kit were machine screws and not self tappers.

Anyways, either junk the screws for a new set of hex screws (see SpeedtechRC for titanium screw set) or deal with it by using a screw bit that is sized properly for the screw plus a ratched handle.

[Kyosho Fan]

In all my experience with Kyosho including their gas kits( and I'm talking about the race versions not the RTRs), they've never used hex screws.

Then your experience might be limited ? My Kyosho Gas Kit does have hex all around out of the box...(it's an "Evolution" Truck Kit)

But honestly, hex isn't hex, as Phillips isn't Phillips. Quality always varies, so please do not blame the "format".

[Laterilus]

Hey folks, just got done with my first race with the ZX-5. What a great car! This thing drives just like an 1/8! The off-power steering is AMAZING! On-power is ok, but there are two other caster blocks that are available and I was able to pick up so I'll try those out to get the more desired effect I'm looking for. Just as Oople stated, the shocks are definitely set very nicely for American tracks. They soaked up the bumps very well and in-air attitude is very smooth and precise.... just like a 4WD buggy should be. Anyways, I have found the buggy I'll be using for this winter season for sure. I do want to report though my only gripe: The front pivot brace and front bulkhead are super WEAK!!! (Especially the front brace). Not that I'm bothered by a part being weak, but those are the incorrect parts! Breaks in 4WD are inevitable. Where the car breaks is very important. As you all can imagine the front brace and bulkhead are not quick easy fixes and the cost is not cheap. Unfortunately, Kyosho has packed both on the same part tree with many other parts that just won't be used. For those of you out there that aren't breaking the bulkhead and only the brace, you must buy a 7.00$ part tree just for a small plastic brace! I'd much rather pay 2.00$ and pick up 10 of those parts as opposed to clipping off that one brace off a whole tree every time I need that part! Secondly, why not make that part Aluminum? That would fix everything IMO. The aluminum brace would protect the bulkhead from crashes involving clipping pipes with your front wheels. Instead of the brace or bulkhead breaking, an EASY TO FIX and CHEAP A-arm or hub breaks instead! Anyone that races certainly understands this concept. If a break occurs, you want it to be your least costly part that easy to access so that you don't miss your next race! Outside of this problem, Kyosho has a winner with this car.

[Kyosho Fan]

That's another point which fits into the "Kyosho spare parts policy" and I could go on. When I wasted my servo arm from one of my two Kyosho trucks, I had to buy a plastic tree as well, for a 10 cent pce of plastic. However, as Kyosho has the cars appealing to me I swallowed the frog, as others in the past.

BTW: as obviously in the cause of the Kyosho USA branch opening Towerhobbies has thrown out all Kyosho parts and kits, if I'm not mistaken. Does anybody know a good online source that will offer the ZX-5 for a fair price ? I know Tower prices cannot be beat, but if it is a good shop I do not mind to pay some extra !

[hardadz]

I am working with a manufacturer to produce just these parts in an alloy material. I will let you know shortly if we have them or not.



QUOTE=Laterilus]Hey folks, just got done with my first race with the ZX-5. What a great car! This thing drives just like an 1/8! The off-power steering is AMAZING! On-power is ok, but there are two other caster blocks that are available and I was able to pick up so I'll try those out to get the more desired effect I'm looking for. Just as Oople stated, the shocks are definitely set very nicely for American tracks. They soaked up the bumps very well and in-air attitude is very smooth and precise.... just like a 4WD buggy should be. Anyways, I have found the buggy I'll be using for this winter season for sure. I do want to report though my only gripe: The front pivot brace and front bulkhead are super WEAK!!! (Especially the front brace). Not that I'm bothered by a part being weak, but those are the incorrect parts! Breaks in 4WD are inevitable. Where the car breaks is very important. As you all can imagine the front brace and bulkhead are not quick easy fixes and the cost is not cheap. Unfortunately, Kyosho has packed both on the same part tree with many other parts that just won't be used. For those of you out there that aren't breaking the bulkhead and only the brace, you must buy a 7.00$ part tree just for a small plastic brace! I'd much rather pay 2.00$ and pick up 10 of those parts as opposed to clipping off that one brace off a whole tree every time I need that part! Secondly, why not make that part Aluminum? That would fix everything IMO. The aluminum brace would protect the bulkhead from crashes involving clipping pipes with your front wheels. Instead of the brace or bulkhead breaking, an EASY TO FIX and CHEAP A-arm or hub breaks instead! Anyone that races certainly understands this concept. If a break occurs, you want it to be your least costly part that easy to access so that you don't miss your next race! Outside of this problem, Kyosho has a winner with this car.[/QUOTE]

[YR4Dude]

So far, SpeedtechRC is the only online source I have seen that has both the car and spare and hop-up parts. You'll have to call SpeedtechRC directly for them to quote you the special discounted price on the kit. They are required to publish the standard retail of 329.95 on the website.

[hardadz]

YR4DUDE
Speedtechrc is not the only one for ZX-5 kits and parts.Try www.evolutionhobbies.com ,not only do they have parts (and more coming in)they were one of the ONLY shops to have parts when the kits came out.I believe, not even Speedtech had parts when they got there first batch of kits.Just thought you might want to know.

[RCSavage]

YR4DUDE
Speedtechrc is not the only one for ZX-5 kits and parts.Try www.evolutionhobbies.com ,not only do they have parts (and more coming in)they were one of the ONLY shops to have parts when the kits came out.I believe, not even Speedtech had parts when they got there first batch of kits.Just thought you might want to know.


I have an extra ZX5 if anyone needs it!! It's in the box, new!!! $300 takes it including shipping.

Also, I agree that the suspension is awesome, although I agree with oople and thing the dampening is a little light in the car but it is close.

[YR4Dude]

Thanks RCSavage, but I got mine for $289.99 plus tax. For those outside of California, you can get it for the same price free of tax and shipping.

If you are looking to unload one then I would consider it but it would have to be a very sweet deal.

[oOple]

Put up a quick review of some Carbon Fibre top deck and shock towers from Atomic Carbon.

http://www.oople.com/rc/photos/zx5/atomiczx5.html

You can see my Alloy front brace on the photos, but its a one-off, hand machined by a friend.
Car is currently running AE blue springs all round

[YR4Dude]

Now thats what I call "Carbon" fibre!!!

Nice topdeck! However, the shock towers are a bit on the thin side. I would prefer to be at least 5mm. (This is offroad ya' know). 3mm would be okay for onroad.

BTW, what is everyone using for tire combinations F and R? Proline Holeshots all around or something else? Please post it.

[1822]

5mm is a little overkill... no, its a lot of overkill. I run 1/8 buggies with 5mm woven graphite shock towers. 3mm is all you need for an electric 1/10 buggy unless you crash too much. ;)

[YR4Dude]

5mm is a little overkill... no, its a lot of overkill. I run 1/8 buggies with 5mm woven graphite shock towers. 3mm is all you need for an electric 1/10 buggy unless you crash too much. ;)

The shock towers that are used in 1/10 nitro sedans are all 4mm - 5mm thick. Guys in electric sedans sedans run 3mm shock towers. Now this is just onroad!!

You would think that offroad should be more durable because there isn't a full sized body to help protect the chassis. Besides that, the rear shock tower on offroad buggies stick out like an antenae. In a tumble it is one of the first things that makes contact with the track. Do you feel comfortable if its only 3mm and it "might" break or would you rather be comfortable that it "won't" break because its 5mm.

Lets go back to the machined alum. front susp. brace which are also used in 1/8 offroad, isn't that also overkill for 1/10? What do you suggest? Delrin? Nylon?

Also, perhaps 5mm may be too thick but the "L" cut at the rear shock mount looks to be a weak point where a crack could start from the 90deg corner. Perhaps if it were cut differently with more radius in the corner or eliminate the corner altogether by an angle cut from bottom to the mid section of the rear shock tower.

[oOple]

I dont think you are correct in what you say about a crack developing, i dont think you are totally in tune with how carbon fibre is constructed or how it breaks.

If you want 5mm towers, you make them fella, no one is stopping you (just lapping you).

[YR4Dude]

I dont think you are correct in what you say about a crack developing, i dont think you are totally in tune with how carbon fibre is constructed or how it breaks.

If you want 5mm towers, you make them fella, no one is stopping you (just lapping you).

Stress concentration, crack propagation and sheer is common to all materials be it steel or carbon fiber. The only difference is the elasticity modulus and the hardness number plus others I'm not going to go into, but they all eventually fail given the right amount of pressure.

Its just that you may not know where I am talking about in regards to the rear shock tower. What I am talking about is that there is potential for breakage (shear) at the 90deg angle near the shock mount. This can easily be fixed with a radius there rather than the 90deg cut thereby making it more difficult for shear to occur.

In regards to the shock tower, I think the added weight of a few more layers of carbon is not much compared to that alum. "brick" on the front of your car. Also, I run on a rough track with steep jumps, doubles and tabletops so it doesn't help to have all that alum. keeping the nose down. However, due to the "rough" nature of my track there is a lot of load on the shocks and "shock towers" from steep jumping, hard landings, and the occasional tumble from not making the triple (when attempted). ;)

So if you were at my track, who will be passing who?

BTW, I just recently broke the front brace on my ZX5. I plan to replace it with a carbon fiber piece which I will make on my own out of stacked layers of graphite plate. Hopefully, I will have it done in the next few weeks. Will post pics then.

[oOple]

Yr4, you really want to argue about stuff dont you ?
You are totally correct on everything. I am wrong, i admit it.
One ways work like you say, 5mm is the Minimum thickness of tower, etc etc..

Perhaps now you can rest in peace, and stop arguing with absolutely everything i say.



p.s. Please join my forum so i can ban you.

[hardadz]

Do you hear an echo where head is?

[StevePond]

Take it easy gentlemen. Let's just agree to disagree and move on. Oople, have you had a chance to test the car with the different differential options yet? You may have already answered this, but I'm too lazy to read the whole thread. ;)

[Laterilus]

lol. Steve, you work for Kyosho now, right? Wouldn't you have time to run the Kyosho cars all with all the variety of setups all of the time? :D J/K. I know you are probably quite busy throughout your work day and probably don't get much chance to run all the nice cars for 4-6 hours out of your day everyday..... but that would be pretty sweet if you could! :)

I should probably try out all of the different setups with all three front diffs, but I'm one of those drivers that doesn't like to deviate once I find a setup that I really like. For the time being, I've been running the center 1-way shaft with the two ball diffs at both ends. Power transfer is great and very smooth along with excellent off-power and good on-power steering. I think one of my main reasons for not changing to a solid center shaft with both ball diffs is that I like the attitude adjustments in the air with my current setup. I used to get quite frustrated with a XXX4 using both ball diffs. Jumping attitude was far too sensitive whether I needed to stab the gas to nose up or hit the brake to nose down. The setup I have right now with the ZX-5 makes it feel much more like an 1/8 when jumping. It allows me to aggressively throttle up or hit the brakes while in the air and still maintain control for a good landing.
Anyways, I probably won't change until I can't find a way to go any faster with my current setup. No need to fix it if it ain't broken!

[savbugtrg]

oOple, read your review and enjoyed it. You compared some things to a BJ4. My main question is do you like the zx-5 better than the bj4. Just trying to figure out which 4wd buggy I am going to purchase. Want something I can win with...lol

[YR4Dude]

....... Oople, have you had a chance to test the car with the different differential options yet? You may have already answered this, but I'm too lazy to read the whole thread. ;)

OMG, I tried asking this question earliear in the forum and got met with a lot of indifference. Thank you Steve for asking this again. Hopefully someone will give you a straight answer.

Also, I noticed that I am not getting enough steering travel. Someone else at my track also noticed this too and suggested Dremeling out some clearance on the suspension arm where the steering knuckle hits it. I did this mod on the old Lazer for the same problem but I would have expected this to be fixed in this newer design. Can someone comment on this or is this a problem that needs to handled with a new design on suspension arm or steering knuckle?

Okay lastly, I don't want to beat a dead horse but..... I showed the car to several people at my track who also anxious to pick it up in the upcoming second shipment. They asked about what the chassis is made of. Now Oople went at me insisting that it is "carbon" and I eventually accepted it, however everyone who looked at it was skeptical on it being "carbon". So now that you are here in this forum Steve, could you explain what this material is and set the record straight. I'm not trying to doubt Oople but would like a better understanding of the chassis material because there is some flex to the chassis such that it seems a little too flexible for a "carbon" type chassis. :o

[Mr. Schumacher]

Now Oople went at me insisting that it is "carbon" and I eventually accepted it, however everyone who looked at it was skeptical on it being "carbon". So now that you are here in this forum Steve, could you explain what this material is and set the record straight. I'm not trying to doubt Oople but would like a better understanding of the chassis material because there is some flex to the chassis such that it seems a little too flexible for a "carbon" type chassis. :o

YR4Dude,

I'm not Steve but I can answer your questions. :D The stock one is REALLY made of carbon composite, same as the material on Yokomo BC Special buggy or Losi XXX-4 Graphite +. Maybe looks a little bit different on finishing due to different ratio on carbon content. If you look up the chassis spare parts description, it states "KYOLA214 Carbon Composite Chassis". If you still not believe that, then you should send it to some labs to check. :mad:

BTW, the 3mm carbon graphite is good enough on shock towers. 5mm ones can be saved in a big crash but likely will destroy the bulkhead. You wants to replace a shock tower or a bulkhead after a crash? :rolleyes: Of course you would say a carbon graphite shock tower is more expensive than a bulkhead to be replaced but it's wiser just to let the shock towers break instead of the bulkhead because it's so much hassle to dig out the bulkhead in the race days. ;) Don't worry too much on stock form as I raced my complete stock ZX-5 a month already and no single parts broke but I agree that it should come with hex screws... :p

[YR4Dude]

Thank you Mr Schumacher. I appreciate you honest and detailed answer.

Now about the steering issue could you comment on that please? As I said before, the steering travel seem very limited and even with the dual rate cranked up, I have difficulty finding enough steering. Do Dremel the arms to get more travel or is there another way to get more steering?

[Mr. Schumacher]

YR4Dude,

Do not dremel anything. I have no problem on steering (maybe you race at a super tight track? :confused: ) but you can try to tighten the front diff a little bit to make the back loose. Same idea on gas touring. Get more angle on steering knuckles will damage the universal shafts.

Back to the graphite shock tower issue, it's true that radius cut can make the graphite plate stronger (like some old Yokomo YZ-10's shock towers have nice curve)... but people have different preference. Maybe the one who design those carbon graphite towers like to have extreme aerodynamics.

[StevePond]

...everyone who looked at it was skeptical on it being "carbon". So now that you are here in this forum Steve, could you explain what this material is and set the record straight. I'm not trying to doubt Oople but would like a better understanding of the chassis material because there is some flex to the chassis such that it seems a little too flexible for a "carbon" type chassis. :o

I didn't want to answer before confirming with the engineers, but they have confirmed that it is absolutely a molded carbon chassis. It's hard for the poeple at your track to know the composition of the material by looking at it or giving it a mere twist here or there. Many types of fiber can be used to reiforce or modify the properties of molded components, the composition of which is impossible to determine by visual inspection.

Here's a little insight about chassis flex and how it works for you - the composition of the material is often changed dozens of times during the development process (for companies that actually do their own development and testing) to suit the application. The amount of flex can be manipulated via the composition of the material to provide the desired balance of performance and durability. Make it too stiff and it might break more easily and have poor traction on low-bite surfaces. Go too soft on the material and it may flex too much for the suspension to be effective. Everything is a balance, and opinions may vary on the proper composition of the material and the resulting amount of strength and flexibility, but every track is different and there may never be a concensus on exactly what the right combination may be. One thing I can assure you of, however, is that it's most certainly a carbon chassis plate.

I hope that answers your question. Post your set-up if you need any help getting more steering. I think it might just be an issue of set-up or tire choice. There is no need to grind anything to get more steering.

[Mr. Schumacher]

Here's a little insight about chassis flex and how it works for you - the composition of the material is often changed dozens of times during the development process (for companies that actually do their own development and testing) to suit the application. The amount of flex can be manipulated via the composition of the material to provide the desired balance of performance and durability. Make it too stiff and it might break more easily and have poor traction on low-bite surfaces. Go too soft on the material and it may flex too much for the suspension to be effective. Everything is a balance, and opinions may vary on the proper composition of the material and the resulting amount of strength and flexibility, but every track is different and there may never be a concensus on exactly what the right combination may be. One thing I can assure you of, however, is that it's most certainly a carbon chassis plate.

I totally agree with Steve. A well-engineered car has many reasons behind on its design. A bit of flex on chassis can provide more strength and durablility. Surely, racers want carbon graphite chassis instead of molded chassis but if you look at the results of XX-4, XXX-4 and X-5 then probably you can know what a good EP buggy made of... Of course, BJ4 is good but it's well over $500 mark. Kyosho is selling "quality + quantity".

[oOple]

Wouldnt bother steve, even a pack of cells against the chassis isnt enough for some people.

corners on the towers already are radiused, Im sure Atomic will make them MORE radiused if you like, more material is stronger, they already said they will make them from 4mm if anyone wants. If you are insane you can glue a couple together.

I was told the photos dont do them justice though, as they look a lot more beefy in the flesh.. but then, who can ever say 3mm isnt beefy.

[PaulRotheram]

Stress concentration, crack propagation and sheer is common to all materials be it steel or carbon fiber. The only difference is the elasticity modulus and the hardness number plus others I'm not going to go into, but they all eventually fail given the right amount of pressure.

Its just that you may not know where I am talking about in regards to the rear shock tower. What I am talking about is that there is potential for breakage (shear) at the 90deg angle near the shock mount. This can easily be fixed with a radius there rather than the 90deg cut thereby making it more difficult for shear to occur.

In regards to the shock tower, I think the added weight of a few more layers of carbon is not much compared to that alum. "brick" on the front of your car. Also, I run on a rough track with steep jumps, doubles and tabletops so it doesn't help to have all that alum. keeping the nose down. However, due to the "rough" nature of my track there is a lot of load on the shocks and "shock towers" from steep jumping, hard landings, and the occasional tumble from not making the triple (when attempted). ;)

So if you were at my track, who will be passing who?

BTW, I just recently broke the front brace on my ZX5. I plan to replace it with a carbon fiber piece which I will make on my own out of stacked layers of graphite plate. Hopefully, I will have it done in the next few weeks. Will post pics then.

You do know that these are toy cars right? stop taking it so damn serious! im sure the R+D department have looked in to things whilst testing the car.

just so you know, if you didnt already - some things are actually designed to break, ya know a weakpoint it be called! keep beefing up your car, please. and come back and tell us when you crack your chassis! as the idea of creating weak points is to minimise the breakages, look at any of the other cars - they ALL have weak points and for a reason!

you say o0ple has a brick on the front of his car with the aluminium, why make an assumption when you havent even tested one on your own car? do you REALLY think itl make a huge difference in its handeling??? if you do you need to get out more my friend and stop 'nit picking'.

Oh, it all makes sence now. ive just looked at your propfile and you race at socal, im from across the water and even i know guys there have a bad reputation for being 'know it alls' even though you know jack :rolleyes: :D

[StevePond]

I think we need to get this discussion on a more productive track (no pun intended). Everyone should feel welcome to post their opinion - you don't have to agree with it and you can make you own case, but lets make this discussion a little more civilized pleased.

[PaulRotheram]

i agree steve, but after reading his posts he just seems so ignorant and wont accept any ones advice/answers unless they are as you say 'in the know'.


just a thought, if he needs more steering, maybe he should buy an alloy 'brick' thatl give it more steering surely? :rolleyes:

[StevePond]

Can't we all just... get along? :o :D :D :D

[PaulRotheram]

hehe ill shut up now huh :)

[oOple]

No worries steve, Theres a lot of love in here, i can feel it..


Like paul said, you can also put some weight over the front end of the car for more steering.

tightening the front diff might give you a LITTLE bit more on-power steering, but will TAKE AWAY steering going into a corner.
if you want entry steering you need it looser, not tighter, the "ultimate" in loose is running a front one way.
If you have any sort of tight track i'd run a one way, its not for everyone, but if you can handle it nice.

[Mr. Schumacher]

oOple,

Nice advice. I'll try it if I hit some tight track. Thanks. ;)

[YR4Dude]

Thank you Steve, Mr Schumacher and Oople.

Those are the answers I have been looking for. Not only am I further informed about the car's chassis and design but everyone else will be too.

In regards to the shock tower, doubling the two shock towers have already been done before when guys were running the older YR series 4WDs.

On the issue of steering, I am currently running the oneway diff, would I get more if I were to switch to the center oneway in combination with a front diff? a front spool?

Lastly, I never made any mention as to the name of my track or any of the well known names who frequent there. I don't consider that fact to be any credit to my opionions. However now that its been mentioned, many guys from the track have gone onto major venues with great success. So whatever works well there works great in other places.

[Laterilus]

YR4dude, I find it interesting you are having steering issues with this car. It absolutely turns on a dime! That has been my early impression and the impression of everyone around at my local tracks. Anyone that has driven my car for a test instantly noticed the very quick (almost twitchy) response of the steering and how well it turns in. BTW, this is all off-power steering. On-power steering with the kit setup was decent, but I find it to be a bit better with the caster adjustment I made to my car. Currently I'm running the center one-way with the ball diffs on both ends. I switched out the stock 7 degree front hubs for the 10 degree hubs and now the on-power steering has gotten better while the off-power steering is more manageable.

If you are having problems not getting enough off-power steering, I'd suggest either putting in a thicker plastic shim under the front bulkhead (included with the kit) or use the front 4 degree hubs. Either way you are decreasing the angle of caster and it will have the same effect. Having the one-way unit in the center or in the front diff definitely should have made a noticable difference already.

[adam lancia]

hey paul, i don't say this to many people but if you can't say something productive in a conversation, SHUT UP!

to all those that are posting relavant info, thanks for the good info. i'm seriously thinking about getting one of these in the next few months. thanks!

adam

[Skribble]

Yr4, you really want to argue about stuff dont you ?
You are totally correct on everything. I am wrong, i admit it.
One ways work like you say, 5mm is the Minimum thickness of tower, etc etc..

Perhaps now you can rest in peace, and stop arguing with absolutely everything i say.



p.s. Please join my forum so i can ban you.Could I get a link to your forum?

[rcyogi]

I have an extra ZX5 if anyone needs it!! It's in the box, new!!! $300 takes it including shipping.

Also, I agree that the suspension is awesome, although I agree with oople and thing the dampening is a little light in the car but it is close.



If you still have the car I willbuy it from you, let me know thanks.

[fabolousRC]

hmmm...maybe I should just sell my ZX-R as parts and buy myself this ZX5 instead (without the drama though)...hmmm

[RustlerBoy]

Anyone know if Losi rims will fit this... i need to know b4 i buy one...

[Mr. Schumacher]

Anyone know if Losi rims will fit this... i need to know b4 i buy one...

NO, LOSI RIMS WON'T FIT. YOU CAN USE HPI SUPER NITRO RIMS IN THE BACK.

[kawasakirider]

im not into eletric but im definately goin 2 suss this out it looks dope

[StevePond]

This car uses the same 12mm hex hubs that Kyosho has used since the early 80's. Losi wheels will not fit as they chose to use a different hub than the rest of the market when their car was introduced more than 15 years later. ;)

[Ultima Pro XL]

First of all I'm not wanting to come off like I'm bashing the ZX-5. I just got my car over a week ago and I LOVE it! It's fast, handles great, is easy to build and work on and jumps like a dream. But when I was assembling the car I couldn't help but be a little concerned that the lower front bulkhead looked a little thin and possible weak in the area that the lower suspension plate that holds the suspension arm rods in bolted into the bulkhead it. And the first day I had the car out running after about 5 runs I had one little hit that snapped the lower bulkhead exactly at the spot I was concerned about. Have any of you had something similar happen to your Lazer? It wasn't that bad of a hit at all and I don't think the car should have broken. I had one spare and I put the car back together at the track and ran it about 4 more times with no problems. It's just I've owned more than 20 Kyosho cars over the last 20+ years and I've never had one break like that so soon. Other than the rear hubs on my Ultima ST Type R. They would snap like crazy until I replaced them with aluminum ones from Kyosho. But I don't see andy alternative bulkheads for the ZX-5 out now.

[captain america]

Hi Ultima.

Here's a link to an aluminum replacement hinge for the front suspension:

http://www.glowplug.com/zx5braces.jpg/100_0538.JPG

http://www.glowplug.com/YaBB.cgi?board=2;action=display;num=1133992894;sta rt=10#10

Alternately, it has been suggested by some to omit the center screw that bolts part 45 to the bulkhead: the screw going through the center effectively weakens part 45 unnecessarily, and when it eventually snaps under heavy impact (or NOT so heavy impact) it ends up taking a chunk of the bulkhead with it.

Though I don't have my Lazer yet, it seems that there's an extra part 43 or 44 in the kit. The part in question has no center screw hole, and is subsequently a little bit tougher. Perhaps you could try fitting it to the front bulkhead in stead of part 45?

Hopefully one of the above suggestions will be able to help you out.

Just out of curiosity, can we expect a formal review of the ZX-5 anytime soon?

[Cain]

Academy SB Rims Front and rear may fit this vehicle as the hex I believe is the Same. The SB Rims are quite good so if you have someone running an SB with you, see if they fit.

By they way, how durable is the wing that comes with the vehicle and can anyone shoot me a picture of the spur gear itself? I am curious if it will work on the SB and can you also provide the tooth count as well?

[captain america]

NO, LOSI RIMS WON'T FIT. YOU CAN USE HPI SUPER NITRO RIMS IN THE BACK.

HPI makes some absolutely splendid rims, but do they also make narrower equivalents for the front? If not, mught there be any way of modifying a rear set to fit narrower tires?

[Dyingslow]

Quick question:
Does anyone know what the width is, pivot to pivot, between the front inner hinge pins (rear inner hinge pins too)?

I am interested to know how different the front is from the rear and how similar it is to other vehicles on the market.

Thanks, Dyingslow

[ALJR]

not much action in here? is there another more active thread that covers the new kyosho zx-5?

[fabolousRC]

HPI makes some absolutely splendid rims, but do they also make narrower equivalents for the front? If not, mught there be any way of modifying a rear set to fit narrower tires?

All the HPI are narrows only. Tamiya wheels are also a good option since they just release a dish version for the 4wd racers. Also, although weaker, Super Ten Wheels fits perfectly. I remember matching these SuperTen wheels diameter to diameter and width to width that they are either equal or at least close to it. Although they might be Touring Wheels, they might be decent alternative to sport on.

Steve, any news when all those SuperTen parts are going to be available again or at least let us know how to order them from our LHS?

[bakabaka]

All the HPI are narrows only. Tamiya wheels are also a good option since they just release a dish version for the 4wd racers....

I just picked up a set of those dish wheels for my DF-02, I'm very happy with them. I like the look of them better than the HPI super nitro wheels I was using, and I can now use the Dirt Hawg III tires I picked up. Tamiya actually has another wheel style and some nice new pin spike tires in their coming soon section, but they'll be more expensive.

A set of four of the 53728 dish wheels is about $10, but of course you need to pay shipping. The price is still great for what you get though, buy two and it's easily worth it. Here's a link to Tamiya's site where you can buy them online:

http://www.tamiyausa.com/product/item.php?product-id=53728

FWIW, the HPI wheels I picked up are the same size as the rears on the DF-02. If they're as wide as the narrows on your buggy that might be an issue. You could try taking a look at the DF-02 FAQ entries I have for compatible wheels and tires, since at least the 12mm hex connector is shared:

http://xyzzy.dyn.dhs.org/df02/index.php?action=show&cat=3

Have fun! :)

[aus jd 2703]

hey how have u guys found this buggy?? what are it weak points and were does it break ie spare parts?? thanks all
btw why are there 2 forums??

[ALJR]

hey how have u guys found this buggy?? what are it weak points and were does it break ie spare parts?? thanks all
btw why are there 2 forums??

check out rctech.net
there is a more active thread over there

[Funkymojo]

Guys check out this new converison kit for the ZX5...sure looks a lot like the BJ4 WE...

ZX5 Conversion Kit (http://www.km-rc.com/oscommerce/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=79&osCsid=f57544be89057cb89ec8fb1787599179)

[702nitro]

Whats going on guys! I just bought my ZX-5 yesterday and it should be coming in a day or two. So how is your guys ZX-5's running??

[tt-01_projex]

this is the only shop so far i can find to get hop ups for this kit.
http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebcategory.asp?id=476

do you any other shops i can get hop ups...

is it true that this kit is less hop ups because its a realy good kit.

[702nitro]

$329 is usually the going price for the ZX-5. However, I found this link

Kyosho ZX-5 (http://www.rcplanet.com/kyosho_lazer_zx5_electric_71821_prd1.htm)

[tt-01_projex]

is the drive shaft aluminum that comes with the kit?

i just want to know what hop ups i need to buy first then i will get the kit.

[702nitro]

Yes! Another thing you might want to look into getting is a set of
Tony Screws for the Lazer ZX-5. This Hopup will replace the phillips screws that come stock with the kit, and replace it with hardened hex screws instead. A very wise upgrade to prevent any stripping.

[tt-01_projex]

yhea that's on my list..
I'm going to start with the hop ups first then the the kit in 3 weeks.

have you seen this site? http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/

Where i can get this Chassis in North America

[ALJR]

don't wast your money on a cf chassis. the stock chassis works great! try and get your self a front aluminum lower hing-pin brace.. glowplug.com has them as does speedtech.com... kyosho also started to make them, but they have not made it to the states yet.. some people upgrade there shock tower mounts with the shooters mounts (on ebay, search zx-5), but I never had and serious issues with them, I only broke the rear mount once.. Corbon works also makes some very nice cf parts for the zx-5 as well. there allot cheaper than the atomic stuff... the buggy is great out of the box and kyosho already addressed the front lower brace issue (the original one was like glass). Not too sure if the updates parts tree made it way into the kits, but any replacement trees you buy are updated with the stronger parts..

Most run either the front diff and center shaft one-way, or the front one-way diff.. other than that, running it box-stock it a VERY good starting point

http://www.rctech.net has a nice thread with lots of zx-5 information in it..

direct link (you may need to be a member to view it) ~~~> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=85386

[tt-01_projex]

ok debate on screws

which Screw kit for the Kyosho ZX-5 is better?

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebproductdetail.asp?catmainid=391&id=5495

https://www.tonysscrews.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=234&categoryId=2

[702nitro]

yhea that's on my list..
I'm going to start with the hop ups first then the the kit in 3 weeks.

have you seen this site? http://atomic-carbon.gforceimages.net/

Where i can get this Chassis in North America

Yes! I've actually seen it several places. One place is at oOple.com (http://www.oople.com) . They have a basic review there, but personally i'm not really sure on how it will increase the driveability benefet factor. If you do decide to get it, you'll probably looking at over $100 for an upgrade that may or may not, or even be detrimental to handling.

????

[702nitro]

ok debate on screws

which Screw kit for the Kyosho ZX-5 is better?

http://www.speedtechrc.com/store/ebproductdetail.asp?catmainid=391&id=5495

https://www.tonysscrews.com/displayProductDocument.hg?productId=234&categoryId=2

Not trying to promote Tony's Screws or anything, but I personally have experience with their screws with my other off road nitro trucks, and have found them to be very durable and best of all, you get a tons of extra screws. The titanium kit looks very appealing, because of the weight factor, but the price of it just makes it disgusting.
The weight issue between the two will be very negligable, but the price will definitely leave your pockets several dollars short.

[tt-01_projex]

don't wast your money on a cf chassis. the stock chassis works great! try and get your self a front aluminum lower hing-pin brace.. glowplug.com has them as does speedtech.com... kyosho also started to make them, but they have not made it to the states yet.. some people upgrade there shock tower mounts with the shooters mounts (on ebay, search zx-5), but I never had and serious issues with them, I only broke the rear mount once.. Corbon works also makes some very nice cf parts for the zx-5 as well. there allot cheaper than the atomic stuff... the buggy is great out of the box and kyosho already addressed the front lower brace issue (the original one was like glass). Not too sure if the updates parts tree made it way into the kits, but any replacement trees you buy are updated with the stronger parts..

Most run either the front diff and center shaft one-way, or the front one-way diff.. other than that, running it box-stock it a VERY good starting point

http://www.rctech.net has a nice thread with lots of zx-5 information in it..

direct link (you may need to be a member to view it) ~~~> http://www.rctech.net/forum/showthread.php?t=85386

yhea..i was kinda thinking of that.. i might just stick with the stock chassis. save the money for better motor and esc for the kit.

BTW..what motor do you guys use and esc for the kit. I read that kyosho.jp recommends a 10T motor.. but what brand do you is better for the kit?

[tt-01_projex]

yhea i might get the screw from Tony.. he has a better price or more screws to offer.

[702nitro]

So far i've got a
Team Orion V2 Revolution 10 Turn Double
Team Orion V2 Rev 14T Double

I'll probably start of with 14Turn with the stock pinion and see what kind of run times I get, and how the car handles around the track with it.

I've been looking at the ZX-5 manual, and does anybody know of a chart for
recommended motor & pinion setup??????

[ALJR]

I use tony's screws myself and am very happy w/ them..

I am using the Novak GTB 6.5 system on an indoor track.. May get the 5.5 or 4.5 once the out door track is open..

I used the stock pinion and spur..

BTW, the curancy conversion for the atomic cf chassis is about $180 (thats for the whole package, not too sure what it would be for just the chassis)...

[tt-01_projex]

I got my hop ups ordered last night.

I got the kit ordered at local hobby store..which takes about 2 weeks..
that's ok.. i can wait.. NOT!..

[702nitro]

I got my hop ups ordered last night.

I got the kit ordered at local hobby store..which takes about 2 weeks..
that's ok.. i can wait.. NOT!..

Aww Shoot! I just got my Lazer ZX-5 from Ultimate Hobbies (http://www.ultimatehobbies.com) today, and they charged me $289.95 according to the invoice, with shipping.

[tt-01_projex]

thats a good price..

i made a deal with my local hobby store for the kit and esc and motor.
just to buy everything from them ..they gave me a deal.

the esc is LRP Sphere Comp and the motor is VECTOR 2-STAR for $525 US.

[702nitro]

Nice~ Thats a sweet deal !!! I'll probably go that route later down the road, but the price of a brushless setup is what makes me turn the other way around. Anyways, I'm gonna try and squeeze a couple of minutes tonight and get started on the building process.