durable buggy

[white sox1]

im kind of new to rc's, but i've driven friend's cars before

i'm looking to get a nitro buggy that is relatively cheap and very durable, ill spend the extra buck if it's going to be really durable, but it's hard to look through all the buggy because of false advertising

and can a nitro car actually blow up or cause a fire?

[Fluke]

i'll go for whatever your lhs stocks.you'll need parts and these days almost every buggy are rock-solid so the lhs should be your guide.however if you have a choice,[flamesuit=on]well i would recomand an ofna buggy.they are very strong and cheap.parts availability is good too[flamesuit=off]

and no a nitro car can't blow up and cause fire like that.the worst that could happen is stripping the glow plug thread and shoot the plug into orbit(saw it happened a few times :D)

[white sox1]

i've been looking through these forums and i've seen a lot of things about 'truggy's' and that they're the best of monster trucks and buggies

i've always wanted a monster truck, but they're not as durable as buggies, and im not the best driver

would a truggy be close to as durable as a buggy?
and are truggies really all that good in all categories

[Deadhead]

truggys are generally alot more money then buggys/trucks because to make them right, you start w/ a truck of buggy and then make it into a truggy....
get the OFNA lx comp, cheap and fun...mostly all buggies as fluke said are bullet proof. They will go end over end and keep going, very strong and relible...

[white sox1]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXLTL4&P=7
(Ofna Ultra GT LX RTR)
is that like the new lx comp?
because it looks pretty similar, and just had some minor changes to it

and yeah, it is cheap and looks like some fun

[Fluke]

that's the new comp indeed

have a look at ofna hyper7 too.

[Cain]

Keep in mind that with the new ultra comp, you will probably want to buy at a least a different steering servo right away as I believe the stock unit is very very weak.

Another buggy you may want to read up on is the CEN Matrix 1/8 buggy. There is a review on rcuniverse about this buggy and it looks like a good choice.

Also, you can find this buggy NIB on ebay right now for $400 shipped.

it includes 144oz high torque servos and an MX3 FM radio. The buggy also is doing quite well racing wise from what I read and CEN is now being carried by Horizon so getting parts shouldn't be a problem at most hobby shops.

I actually will have this buggy monday in my hands, the exact one used in the reviews with the upgrades as well.

As a noob to buggies myself, after reading all I could, this seemed like the best choice for me.

As for truggies and such, they can be fun, just expect to pay more than say a buggy just on tires alone. I think thats what I got a kick out of most when I had an LST, how much getting a set of tires was going to run me. 1/8 scales aren't too much cheaper, but every little bit helps.

[dirtguy90]

is spending the extra 200 for the matrix or the hyper 7 really worth it?
i probably won't be racing it, just bashing around my house
and how fast are the matrix, hyper 7, and the ultra comp?

and does anybody have a link to a wedsite where i can look at like how the buggy works and what all of the parts do

[Cain]

I guess it really depends on what you want to spend.

I say estimate what you believe you would spend for a better servo, add that to the cost of the ultra and then compare. do the same for a radio too if necessary.

I say for bashing you will be happy with the ultra comp, especially when you get a better steering servo in there.

[white sox1]

ok, how many oz/inch should the servo have?
does the buggy only have 1 servo? because i know that mt's have 2 or 3

[white sox1]

http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXAXV1&P=ML
(Ofna 1/8 Ultra MBX Competition RTR w/Powerstart)
is that a good buggy, because i've seen a lot of stuff about it and it's still in my price range

and is the 'powerstart' the way that the motor starts with an electric starter?

how do i break buggies in? what kind of fuel, driving slow/fast...thing like that?
what parts on this buggy would wear out or need to be raplaced quickly, beside the front + rear suspension arms?

thanks

[LD3Furious]

http://toys.search.ebay.com/matrix_Radio-Control-Vehicles_W0QQbsZSearchQQcatrefZC6QQcoactionZcompar eQQcoentrypageZsearchQQcopagenumZ1QQfgtpZQQfposZQ5 AIPQ2fPostalQQfromZR2QQfsooZ2QQfsopZ2QQftrtZ1QQftr vZ1QQlopgZQQsacatZ117015QQsadisZ200QQsaprchiZQQsap rcloZQQsargnZQ2d1QQsaslcZ2QQsbrftogZ1QQsofocusZbs


Is it worth $80 extra for a Matrix? I think so...Ive heard some real good comments on the buggy itself, and the RTR comes with a very good FM radio. Right now, I feel this is probably the best RTR buggy available. Especially for a n0ob who probably won't be racing anytime soon.

[LD3Furious]

Power Start/Roto Start/Drill Start/Tiger Drive...etc.etc.etc....they are all basically the same. And yes, this is how you can start the buggy. You insert the shaft of the hand held unit into a slot on the engine...kind of difficult to describe w/o pics.

Break-In. There are farrrr too many different methods. I personally choose this...
1) Buy a temp gun...you can find em for $50 or a little less...
2)Put the buggy on something so the tires are off the ground and not touching anything. Fill tank. If you have a hair drier or heat gun, use that to heat the engine ( measured by pointing the temp gun into the head, at the top of the glo-plug ) to approx. 200F. You can either operate the throttle manually by hand, or simply turn your Tx/Rx on and use that. Now start the buggy up...Slowly ease the throttle all the way open...maybe over a period of 10 seconds or more...keep it at WOT (Wide Open Throttle ) until there is a tiny little bit of fuel left in the tank...don't let it run completely dry. You can stall the engine by a few different methods. Some will use a rag and plug the exhaust stinger and others will use their shoe or something rubber to stop the flywheel.While doing this, keep an eye on the temps...it should stay around 200...no higher than 220. The purpose of this first tank run at WOT is twofold. One, it helps to clean out any junk that may be in the engine from the manufacturing process. Two, doing the break-in in the buggy "trains" the engine under the actual loads it will see while running.
2) Now after the first tank is done and the engine has been stalled, bring the piston down to BDC (Bottom Dead Center) and let it cool completely. Now, fill the tank again and get it started, put it on the ground and drive it around some, carefully throttling up and down. Don't stab or blip the throttle...run it like this for approx 3 minutes, stall it, bring piston to BDC and let it cool again. Do this for two full tanks...running it for three minutes at a time, letting it cool completely in between runs with the piston at BDC. This is called heat cycling. During this time, always keep an eye on your temps...generally they should keep around 200-220F. You may have to fiddle with the HSN(High Speed Needle ) some...just be careful. One, do not touch it until the engine is up to temp, whatever temp that may be.Two, do not touch the LSN (Low Speed Needle ) or the idle during this time. Three, when you do adjust the HSN, remember this...Clockwise = lean...which closes off the fuel and Counter Clock Wise = rich...which opens up or brings more fuel in. When you do make adjustments...try to picture the HSN like a clock...and only make one our at a time adjustments.
Now you're about to begin tank 4. Basically, no different than what you have been doing...but you can start driving for a full tank at a time now. Just be careful, very smooth on and off the throttle and do not hold it at WOT for more than 2-3 seconds at a time. Also, don't let the tank run compltely dry..always stall it, bring piston to BDC and let it cool completely between tanks. Generally...most engines nowadays need more than a gallon of fuel run through them before they are fully broken in and ready to be race tuned. Just follow these guidelines ( also search the threads and throughout the net ) for other people's suggestions for break in procedure and you should be in good shape.

[adrianderekluna]

kyosho sp1 is $450 on ebay right now. very strong kit. replacement parts, if they even break will be affordable at amainhobbies.com.

[Cain]

For servos, I was told a minimum of 100oz+ for steering.

The MX-3 is a favorite radio of mine. If that MX3S didn't have its receivers cost so much I would probably have bought that to use.

The Matrix is also a newer design than say the Ofna MBX buggy or Ultra Comp. You will probably get more race level stuff in the Matrix than those too.

As for the powerstart, is that a start system similar to what traxxas does with an electric motor? If so, I would prefer a rotostyle start system.

[LD3Furious]

Yes, Cain...it is an electric, not roto style for the Ofna Ultra. As for the Cen, it has a pullstart...I don't think it has any other start options, though one could still use a starterbox.

[Cain]

The CEN matrix right now I am confirming if a tigerdrive can be adapted to it. You can use CENs rotostart setup however , just an additional cost.