more top speed

[speedracer911]

hey im a newb and just got a warhead. my first hi tech r/c other then walmart stuff back in the day lol. ive heard that you can make one faster by changing the spur gear but i'm not sure which way you go. do you go for less teeth or more teeth on the spur gear. as far as i know it comes with a 49t spur gear. anyone know which one i should go with?

[kawasakirider]

Less teeth i think cos it will do a full turn faster

[apollo]

lesss teeth but u have to make sure the pinion gear will be able to slide over enough to mesh properly

[LD3Furious]

If you go with a larger spur or smaller clutch bell (CB) it will seem to gain bottom end and will wind out/accellerate to it's given top speed quicker.Going with a larger CB or smaller spur will take away some bottom grunt, take longer to reach it's given top speed and maybe gain a little more on top. Personally though, I would look at your exhaust first. I think you would gain a more profound difference this way. Try the Ofna/Jammin JP-2 pipe. This is designed for top end speed.Im assuming this truck has reverse? If so, look into if Duratrax offers a Forward Only Conversion (F.O.C). This will drastically free up the drivetrain and release a few ponies :).

[speedracer911]

If you go with a larger spur or smaller clutch bell (CB) it will seem to gain bottom end and will wind out/accellerate to it's given top speed quicker.Going with a larger CB or smaller spur will take away some bottom grunt, take longer to reach it's given top speed and maybe gain a little more on top. Personally though, I would look at your exhaust first. I think you would gain a more profound difference this way. Try the Ofna/Jammin JP-2 pipe. This is designed for top end speed.Im assuming this truck has reverse? If so, look into if Duratrax offers a Forward Only Conversion (F.O.C). This will drastically free up the drivetrain and release a few ponies :).

where can i find this pipe? and will it be louder..say like a monster gt?

[apollo]

somebody correct me if i am wrong, but if you are already revving the engine to its highest and still not happy with the speed, a pipe isnt gunna do much without risking ur engines wellbeing, it might help you get to top speed quicker but i doubt it would raise it by much, i would first try different gear ratios before i go into a new pipe

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

Most of these little engines never reach their full potential when it comes to RPM or H.P.. Normally the limiting factors are found in the intake and exhaust designs. This isn’t an oversight on the manufactures part, just the outcome of the mass manufacturing process. Haven’t you noticed that many manufacturers claim to increase H.P. and RPMs on similar engines without changing the CCs? They do this by paying more attention to the small details. Look at the HPI .25 it has undergone 3 different increases in power and RPM levels sense it came out yet still retains the same block, piston and rod, and exhaust header.

If I had to guess I would say that any factory non-race prepped engine is working at about 75% of its true RPM/HP potential. This allows the engine to survive some serious abuse by the, non-savvy, typical user who might run it to lean one day and to rich the next. It also allows for the greatest flexibility in tuning and operational conditions. These are also some of the things you must conceder when seeking out more H.P. and RPMs.

The best mods you can make and still keep it tunable are to the exhaust and intake side of the engine. All engines are nothing more then air pumps, the more air you put the more air you must take out, and the more power you are going to make. With this in mind the best place to start when looking for more performance is on the exhaust side.

Nearly all pipes are better then the short factory “tuned” pipe which are set to work best in the low range because this is what impresses the masses. People love to see their truck wheelie or take off like a bullet, it appeals to the WOW factor. But the novelty of this soon wears thin.

The general rule of thumb is the longer the pipe the more top end speed, the shorter the pipe the more bottom end torque. Of course you got other things to think about such as pipe diameter and chamber design. And the most often overlooked piece of the pipe, the stinger.

Pipe diameter is more important to the smaller .12 thru .18 engines then it is on the big block <.21 sizes. But only is as much that the smaller engines are also more sensitive to all the other factors (proper carb tuning and intake systems). To large of a diameter pipe on a small block can actually cause a loss of power throughout the whole RPM range. To small of a diameter and you will move your torque curve so low that you might pull a wheelie, but then bottom out the engine in its mid-range. Of course you can compensate for some of these by increasing the pipe length but even that has it limitations.

The best thing to do when looking for new pipes is to conceder where you are going to be doing most of your driving. If you are into big tracks with long straights and sweeping curves then go with a big bore long pipe. If you’re a backyard basher or if you run on a short track with sharp turns and want to make those long jumps you’re better off with a big bore midsized pipe. But for best performance never get a pipe that has more then 1.5 times the diameter of your piston or you will be chasing your tune every time you drive.

BTW its best to increase your engine's performance first, then chase your gear ratios. Though changing gears is cheaper you'll never reach your truck's true performance potential until you work on the heart of the beast.

[speedracer911]

thanks dad that explained alot