Engine Break in

[NevNitro]

Hey Everyone, I'm new to the RC world and bought my first truck, Cen MT2. What I need to know is, What is the proper way to break in a new engine, the right way. Is there a site I can go to or can someone out there give me some good advice on this. Looking forward to talking to everyone at any given time. Again thanks for the information.

[ofnaravager9]

well, here u go:
10 steps lol

1. make sure its not cold out
2. make sure its not wet out
3. make sure its primed (lol)
4. set master needle to 2 1/2 turns counterclockwise
5. make sure the wheels arent touching the ground when u turn it on
6. make sure the radio gear is on
7. make sure that noone is by the exhaust (experience....lol)
8. dont run it fast, take it slow the first time, so u dont damage anything
9. as time goes by, youll figure out when to take it to the max when u get used to the engine
10. HAVE FUN!!!!!

good luck with your mt2!!!

-luke

[NevNitro]

well, here u go:
10 steps lol

1. make sure its not cold out
2. make sure its not wet out
3. make sure its primed (lol)
4. set master needle to 2 1/2 turns counterclockwise
5. make sure the wheels arent touching the ground when u turn it on
6. make sure the radio gear is on
7. make sure that noone is by the exhaust (experience....lol)
8. dont run it fast, take it slow the first time, so u dont damage anything
9. as time goes by, youll figure out when to take it to the max when u get used to the engine
10. HAVE FUN!!!!!

good luck with your mt2!!!

-luke
Luke, Thanks for the info on the engine break in. I know that it is important and I'm glad you responded. I did get some more responces also. Great site, and good people. Talk to ya later.
Dan

[ofnaravager9]

k np have fun!!!!!

[tonyt]

Hey Everyone, I'm new to the RC world and bought my first truck, Cen MT2. What I need to know is, What is the proper way to break in a new engine, the right way. Is there a site I can go to or can someone out there give me some good advice on this. Looking forward to talking to everyone at any given time. Again thanks for the information.


umm....it's a little late for me to tell you this, but usually break in is described in the manual....

TT

[NevNitro]

I know that it's in the manual, but it says to have it idle a couple of tanks worth and more and more I hear people (RC people ) say that's kinda the old school way. So I just wanted to hear some more options.
Dan

[tonyt]

I know that it's in the manual, but it says to have it idle a couple of tanks worth and more and more I hear people (RC people ) say that's kinda the old school way. So I just wanted to hear some more options.
Dan

fair enough

[snakecharmer89]

the engine manufacturer usually knows what is best for their own engines. there are a bunch of different methods out there and they all do the same thing just a different way. as long as you do one method correctly, you will have no problems throughout the life of your engine.

[SavageMan21]

I personally would do whatever it says in the manual, like snakecharmer89 said, they ushually know whats best for their engines.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

I find it ironic that the only difference between most engines, as far as materials that they are made from, is if they are ABC or ABN and if they use a brass or aluminum connecting rod. Yet there are no two engines, even though many are made by the same company, which use the same break in procedure. Most advance RC tuners and racers are now recommending that you use the heat cycle method to break in your engine. I just purchased a XTM Mammoth with the 24.7 engine and this is the first one that I have seen to also use this method to break in the engine (it says to run for 3 minutes then cool down for 10 minutes and repeat this 15 times while leaning it out 1/12 turn each time, for a total of 45 minutes of run time). I recently put a new sleeve and piston in my Crusher and used the heat cycle to break that in. I cycled it 10 times and then tuned it for performance. We have now run more then 2.5 gallons through it and it still puts out 80 PSI which is what it pumped just after the rebuild. I have also used this method to break in my Savage .25 but have yet to tune it for performance. 2.5 gallons probably isn’t enough to say that this works out for the long term but I think that if it was going to have problems with wear it would have shown up by now. Just remember that heat kills so never run it hot.

[Tim'sLosi]

I also believe in breaking an engine in at temps near normal operating temperature. Why break parts in at a low temp where piston and sleeve are not fully expanded and then run at a higher temp. There would be an immediate chance for a loss of compression when you tune for performance and the parts expand at normal operating temp. Right? Or am I missing something. I get temps to around 200 degrees F and then heat cycle.

[NevNitro]

Thanks guys for the reply. I guess I'm going to have to figure out the best way that will work for me. I am at this point, not a racer but who knows what the future will bring. I will figure it out, but again thanks for the replys.

[dodesrc]

Thanks guys for the reply. I guess I'm going to have to figure out the best way that will work for me. I am at this point, not a racer but who knows what the future will bring. I will figure it out, but again thanks for the replys.
I've had the best luck breaking my engines in on the track...under actual driving conditions. Most manuals will tell you to idle through one to three tanks of fuel before actually operating the engine under load. I tried this twice and it did not work for me! New Fantom engines as well as new Picco and OS engine manuals now tell you to get the engine up to operating temperature as soon as possible. They say that this is to eliminate pinch zone wear by expanding the sleeve to it's operating diameter right away. I now break in all my engines this way and usually get tired of them before they wear out. I usually add raw castor oil to my fuel for the first couple of tanks since the castor coats the internal parts (makes them a gold color) and protects them during a too-lean condition - like at the end of a tank. If you choose this method of break-in, be sure not to exceed 1/2 the engine's max RPM for the first two tanks; 3/4 RPM for the third and forth tanks and limited full speed for the fifth tank. Most engines require a 5-tank break-in.

[Duffil]

Where do you find raw castor oil?

[NevNitro]

I've had the best luck breaking my engines in on the track...under actual driving conditions. Most manuals will tell you to idle through one to three tanks of fuel before actually operating the engine under load. I tried this twice and it did not work for me! New Fantom engines as well as new Picco and OS engine manuals now tell you to get the engine up to operating temperature as soon as possible. They say that this is to eliminate pinch zone wear by expanding the sleeve to it's operating diameter right away. I now break in all my engines this way and usually get tired of them before they wear out. I usually add raw castor oil to my fuel for the first couple of tanks since the castor coats the internal parts (makes them a gold color) and protects them during a too-lean condition - like at the end of a tank. If you choose this method of break-in, be sure not to exceed 1/2 the engine's max RPM for the first two tanks; 3/4 RPM for the third and forth tanks and limited full speed for the fifth tank. Most engines require a 5-tank break-in.

Is this Castrol oil or castor oil. And are you adding to the first couple of tanks or are you adding it to your gallon of fuel, and if so how much of an % in the gallon or tank? Thanks for the responce. I'm just hesitve on how to go about it for the first time...I guess I should just go out and get it done, and be over it, but just want to do it right. I don't like rushing it if you know what I mean. Thanks again. Dan

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

Yep, the whole idea is to get them upto operationla temp as fast as possible and then cool them off. Just be sure you put the piston in bottom dead center each time. Once you have done this enough times the sleeve will have expanded out to its normal running size and the piston will have lapped into the cylinder. The XTM manual says to get the engine up to temp by blipping the throttle between idel and half throttle during the process. When I broke in my crusher's new p/s I used 5 minutes on at 210* then off until the temp was back down into 80* range. I did this for 10 heat cycles then drove it at half throttle for 1 tank and then tuned it for performane. It is running 80psi with 2.5 gallons through it so I guess it worked.

[NevNitro]

Just to be specific about my engine, it is a .16 2.7cc It's not one of those big motors or those OS motors. It's just a small motor compared to the race motors so I don't know if this makes a difference or not.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

Engines (motors are electric) don't have to be big blocks to be "race" engines. My T-Maxx is only a .15 (2.5cc) and the engine in my Crusher is only a .18 (3.0cc). Though size is the easiest way to gain power many of the smaller engines can get near the same levels of performance through the way they are designed. Take a look at the new 3.3cc (.20) Maxx engine. It is still a "small block" but with its high compression and advance port design it makes nearly the same HP as the Savage .25. The Epic .18 (3.0) is suppose to make nearly 2.0hp@42,500rpms which should push it pass the HPI .21 (3.5) "big block" in performance.

[dodesrc]

Is this Castrol oil or castor oil. And are you adding to the first couple of tanks or are you adding it to your gallon of fuel, and if so how much of an % in the gallon or tank? Thanks for the responce. I'm just hesitve on how to go about it for the first time...I guess I should just go out and get it done, and be over it, but just want to do it right. I don't like rushing it if you know what I mean. Thanks again. Dan
It's castor oil: from the castor bean. Castrol is a motor oil with castor oil in it - but still a motor oil for full-sized cars. I am using White Lighting fuel which contains 8% oil by volume. I add 20 cc's (or ml - they are the same thing) to each 500 ml fuel bottle. This fuel contains roughly 12% oil by volume (500ml X 4% = 20ml (cc)). If you are using a fuel that contains 12% oil then don't add any or very little. Most engines break-in best using between 12 - 16% oil in the fuel. The higher percentage of oil will cause your engine to run hotter, generally. I would make sure that you have a good temperature gauge so that you can keep your engine operating between 220 - 240 degrees F. This is purely up to you what temperature you should maintain, your manual should give you some clue as to what your operating temperature should be. Try to break-in your engine on a 50 - 60 degree day so that your engine temp readings are accurate.

[NevNitro]

It's castor oil: from the castor bean. Castrol is a motor oil with castor oil in it - but still a motor oil for full-sized cars. I am using White Lighting fuel which contains 8% oil by volume. I add 20 cc's (or ml - they are the same thing) to each 500 ml fuel bottle. This fuel contains roughly 12% oil by volume (500ml X 4% = 20ml (cc)). If you are using a fuel that contains 12% oil then don't add any or very little. Most engines break-in best using between 12 - 16% oil in the fuel. The higher percentage of oil will cause your engine to run hotter, generally. I would make sure that you have a good temperature gauge so that you can keep your engine operating between 220 - 240 degrees F. This is purely up to you what temperature you should maintain, your manual should give you some clue as to what your operating temperature should be. Try to break-in your engine on a 50 - 60 degree day so that your engine temp readings are accurate.

dodesrc,
I am running Byron 20% 1 gal with 16% lubrication. So do I take that as 16% oil in the fuel, and if so I should just leave it be and not add to that..Correct. Am I reading this the right way? I have also heard of 1 squirt of Armorall to 1gal of fuel to keep frothing or air bubbles out, what is your take on this.

[Dad-to-a-Marine]

DO NOT ADD ARMORALL to your fuel. All blends have some kind of anti-foaming agent already in the blend. Adding Armorall is not going to help out with anything and could hurt your engine.

You're correct in reading the numbers. The way they break down is that the nitro percent is listed first followed by the oil. The remaining is alcohol and antifoaming agents. The nitro in these fuels is used to increase the burn rate of the alcohol which is why when you increase the nitro percent you have to decrease the compression ratio as nitro does not have the anti-denotation properties of alcohol.

[dodesrc]

dad-to-a-marine is correct about armour all in your fuel. Armour all is a polymer and could leave a nasty residue on your engine. It might also react with your fuel in some horrific way. He is also correct about the various properties of nitro fuel and thier effect on combustion. The only thing that I would add is that it is the nitromethane in the fuel that reacts with the platinum in your glow plug so cause combustion. That's why the higher the nitro, the cooler the plug. Since you intend to use 20% nitro with about 16% oil by volume, I would suggest a medium plug for a warm day or a hot plug for a cold day. I would not add any castor oil to your fuel as 16% oil in good for most conditions. My racing fuel contains 8% oil by volume so I'm sure that your fuel should lubricate your new engine nicely. Watch for the trail of smoke coming out of your pipe under acceleration. Check your head temp every lap or 30 seconds. No extended full throttle running until after the 5th tank. Let us know that you won!

[NevNitro]

Thanks for the feedback on those two items that I was asking about. I will also let you know how the break in process goes. As it's still alittle chilli to break in I think. 30 degres out. I'm sure I could do it, but I think I'll wait for alittle warmer weather.

[mt2_power]

i did all that to my new mt2 and when i first turn the engine with the rottor start i brake the engine down
now i have a new pull start engine
no more rotor start

[tonyt]

ok, i'm (hopefully) getting a new engine soon for my MGT. anyone have a good breakin procedure besides what the directions say?

Tony T.

YAY! THIS THREAD IS BACK OPEN!