Pic's of Hyper 8 conversion

[campbellspurloc]

Here are some pictures of a Hyper 8 that I helped my friend @ Quark do for a test car. We are going to test their 120 amp controller on it next weekend. I tried it in front of my house today and the controller was sweeeet! :027: I am really looking forward to see if the temp is cool enough to run 15+ mins.

Here is the setup
Hyper 8
Quark 120 amp ESC
Neu 1515 1Y Motor
Kyosho plastic spur gear(direct fit on ofna diff)
14:46 gearing
4s 6000mah Lipo's
RPM radio box
Modified Emaxx motor mount

[campbellspurloc]

another

[kawasakirider]

OMG you cruel cruel person how could you do that to such a nice buggy :P

[campbellspurloc]

1 more

[tcolesen]

Nice! I really need to get one of those Kyosho plastic spur gears. You said they're available at Ultimate Hobbies, right? How much do they cost, and how many more do they have?

Is there any velcro under the batteries?

[campbellspurloc]

Nice! I really need to get one of those Kyosho plastic spur gears. You said they're available at Ultimate Hobbies, right? How much do they cost, and how many more do they have?

Is there any velcro under the batteries?
There like $5 or so. Ultimate is out of them, just order them direct from kyosho america, they are in laguna hills. Yes, velcro under batteries.

[Muck]

I was just looking at the Hyper 8's today. I have a converted hyper 7 and I really like it. I started a Ofna MBX conversion too, but it is rather narrow. I'm starting not to like it because fitting 2 battery packs is not going to happen very easily. I'm starting to wish I used a different platform.

Do you know the part # for those spur gears?

[TimisTim]

Whats that second little bit of electronics in the shrink wrap? A telemetry unit?

Thats a cool looking controller. Im sure its still in the beta phase but wouldn't cooling fins on the top increase the surface area and direct air more efficently to cool it?

[tcolesen]

I think the little electronics piece is Quark's BEC unit. The Quark controllers are readily available, and they are not beta units.

Thanks for the info, Campbell. For those that want to know how the plastic spur gear can be ordered, you can call Kyosho America at 800-716-4518.

[campbellspurloc]

I was just looking at the Hyper 8's today. I have a converted hyper 7 and I really like it. I started a Ofna MBX conversion too, but it is rather narrow. I'm starting not to like it because fitting 2 battery packs is not going to happen very easily. I'm starting to wish I used a different platform.

Do you know the part # for those spur gears?
IF148

[campbellspurloc]

Whats that second little bit of electronics in the shrink wrap? A telemetry unit?

Thats a cool looking controller. Im sure its still in the beta phase but wouldn't cooling fins on the top increase the surface area and direct air more efficently to cool it?

Yes fins would be great, all we have to do is talk Quark into putting them on. This is not an easy task. I am going to do it myself once I get my own unti. I am used to having to modify controllers to keep them cool, because I am constantly trying to push these with longer run times. As for the controller the way it sits in the pic's, I mounted it upside down and we added a capacitor on it and that is how we ran it today. We ran it a couple differnt times and got 15min run times out of it. That is race conditions, driving it as fast as we can for 15 minutes straight. The controller is hands down the smoothest controller I have driven(and I have tried Schultze, BK, MGM, Novak). The controller had no bad habbits and the throttle was smooth as silk. Definatley a positive test! We are going to try it again next weekend and see how far we can push it.

[tcolesen]

Sounds like a good test! How much did it heat up in that 15min. run?

Look what I found!:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7378&cPath=595_426_355_365&PHPSESSID=059724fbc4f2a2c4804d260a3442a5b6
Only $3.90! Now it's time to tell the world!

[campbellspurloc]

Sounds like a good test! How much did it heat up in that 15min. run?

Look what I found!:
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=7378&cPath=595_426_355_365&PHPSESSID=059724fbc4f2a2c4804d260a3442a5b6
Only $3.90! Now it's time to tell the world!

Around 140 deg.

On the subject of diffs:
I would recommend to anyone that owns a Hyper 7 or 8 that is planning on using the kyosho spur gear, to just get a kyosho diff and use it. The reason is because the ofna diffs seem to leak and in general I think they are a pain in the Arss. Once you have used a Kyosho diff in your car, I promise you won't go back. I personally pulled out my Ofna diff in my Hyper 7 and replaced it with a Kyosho. The ofna diff with the Kyosho spur gear will work, I just think the Kyosho is a better way to go(IMO).

[tcolesen]

Where can I get a Kyosho diff for cheap? I looked, but can't find a place. I can get an Ofna diff for $15 shipped, and then the Kyosho gear from RC Mart.

[LaBrother]

ebay.


Are u using the maxamps batteries???
I have two 4S 4000's that would be a great candidate for an 1/8 buggy conversion. I believe the 4000's are the same dimensions as the 3000's that u are using, but they are jsut a little thicker. How do the batteries fit in the hyper 8?

[nicholcgn]

Interested in starting an 1/8th electric buggy. Is there any way you could list the parts you bought that were required to convert it. Also basic mods you had to make?

I am also interested in the durability - Are you chewing up any gears?

Is that 2 6000 lipos you are runnning? What is the max batteries and runtime you think you could install? A 30 min main happens some times.

[tripthreat]

Hey, this is Frank @ Quark.

First off, just want to thank Campbell for all the help.

2nd, he knows more about brushless than anyone I've met not working at a brushless company.

3rd, the test went great. We ran a 4s 6000 set up, so two 2s packs wired in series. Also, we have a pair of 8000s to try next week, to see how far the controller can go. As for cooling fins, that is something we will try sooner than later.

Let me know if you have any questions.

Frank

[adrianderekluna]

how do you order direct from kyosho america? just call? they have a website for orders?

this is interesting. what is the life expectancy of a brushless motor vs. a nitro engine? rpm range?

what was the cost of this project? wondering about the contrast to nitro. about the same with batteries/speed/control? more, less?

There like $5 or so. Ultimate is out of them, just order them direct from kyosho america, they are in laguna hills. Yes, velcro under batteries.

[campbellspurloc]

Where can I get a Kyosho diff for cheap? I looked, but can't find a place. I can get an Ofna diff for $15 shipped, and then the Kyosho gear from RC Mart.
I get the kyosho diffs from Ebay or the local hobby store. NOT CHEAP, but worth the price(IMO).

[tcolesen]

Well, I cheaped out an got an Ofna Hyper 7 diff for $12 (new, unassembled). Turns out that Dinball doesn't actually have the Kyosho spur gear. Seems as if I'll be calling Kyosho directly soon.

adrianderekluna,
I think you can call Kyosho America directly through the toll free number on their website.
Brushless motors can technically last forever, except that the bearings will eventually need oiling/replacing. If the motors are allowed to go over 180 deg. Farenheit, the magnets can lose their strength, which would decrease the motor's performance.

[campbellspurloc]

LaBrother-6000's are Thunder power, 8000's are Max amp. Max amp seem to work as well as the TP's. Batteries fit fine in Hyper. I would not use the 4000's because you will be pulling too many amps for them. I have destroyed one of my 6000's already, due to pulling too many amps. I think the 6000's are fine, just not for extended periods, 4000's might be ok for 5mins or so, but watch to make sure they don't get too hot.
Nicholcgn-Will try to come up with something for you. Spur gears last a long time if proper gear mesh is used. I know we can go 20 min's, trying to get to 30. 8000's might be close.
Travis-Ofna diff will be fine.
Frank-Thanks for the kind words.

Adrian-Call Kyosho America and ask for customer service. They will take care of you. Tcoleson is correct in his post answering you. Figure roughly $900 to do it right.

[campbellspurloc]

Nicholcgn-Here is how I do my cars(Hyper or Kyosho):
strip car of engine, fuel tank, radio box, exhaust, and throttle servo. Cut the servo tray just behind the steering servo and get rid of the rest of the servo tray. get rid of the brakes from the center diff. Now you should have just the center diff and the steering servo. Now you have to make or buy a motor mount. Emaxx mount can be modified, but personally I like to use a piece of angle Iron. Do some searches and you will see lots of threads on motor mounts. Change the center spur gear with a plastic Kyosho one part #IF148. Next mount the motor and I like to build a tray for the speed control that mounts on top of the center diff and extends back to the rear of the motor. I mount the contoller on this. Next I take an RPM GT radio box and mount it where the old radio box went as close to the drive line as possible. Next I mount the batteries using velcro on the mud guards. I slot the mud guards at each end of the batteries and pass a velcro strap under the mud guard and over top the battery. Now mount your electronics and you are ready to go.
Parts needed:
Kyosho center spur gear
Motor
Controller
RPM Radio Box
BEC(if controller needs it)
Batteries
Velcro
Motor mount

Thats a brief description to how I do it. If you get stuck just ask and everybody will help you. There is more than one way to do a conversion, this is just how I do mine.

[kawasakirider]

So have you speed tested this thing yet? It would easily outrun nitro h8s wouldn't it dependng on what they were running?

[suckfish]

Wow that is a really cool , any chance of a list of parts that you needed to convert it.. I am thinking of dong it to my Hyper 7 .. duh just saw the list thanks looks awesome

[campbellspurloc]

So have you speed tested this thing yet? It would easily outrun nitro h8s wouldn't it dependng on what they were running?
I have not speed tested it, but I have run it at the track. There is no problem running with any nitro, you just have to gear up for a long straight. Remember, I am running 4s batteries and haven't had any problems with any nitro's, but if I did... I would just have to drop in a 5s and say bye bye! :)

[tumad]

Hi,

Do you have any recomendations for a Brushless system for my Revo, running say 2 x 7,5 v 4000 Mha Lipos's (motor & controller setup)

I need at least the performance of a Revo fitted with a Sirio .23, which I consider as overpowered....

Thinking of the Quark monster controller, but what motor...

Thanks

[Rocksalt]

GReat job! I am looking to convert my 7.5 the same way. It's been a long time since I ran my old MP5 and don't remember the gearing. I did some calculations on that motor's kv and see that it's spinning 36,080rpm @ 16.4V. IIRC, the standard .21 is 30,000-40,000RPM. A high performance .21 is 40,000-60KRPM? What gear ratio would be equivalent in speed to the 60,000RPM motor, and are you using that configuration? If not then it's considerably slower than a .21? Did you do any logging on that setup to see what the nominal amperage is?

I guess what I would like to know is what electric setup would be needed to pull the same or better top speed as a .21 nitro? The electric needs lower RPM to make the same torque so at minimum I would need a 2 speed or a 5 speed :D

Good job dude.

[campbellspurloc]

Tumad,
Don't have any suggestions on a Revo, I don't have any experience with a monster truck. Ask your question in a new post and you will get your answers.

Rocksalt,
I haven't logged the amperage. I do not know the gear ratio to keep up with a 60,000rpm nitro.
We are running a 14\46 combo. It is geared for the track we are running which has a small straight. I have run a 16\46 combo as well and didn't have a problem. I think that you will not have problems running with nitro's with this setup, I haven't and I have run (practice) with some very good nitro racers. Most everyone at my track can't believe how fast it is and no one has mouthed off about it isn't as fast as a nitro. My feeling is that not many people are going to have me covered on the top end, and nobody is going to have me covered out of the hole. I am not worried about having the fastest buggy down the straight, just the fastest around the track. If I want to shut someone up that is mouthing off, I will put my 5s pack in! It is stupid fast with that thing in it. :)

[joeling]

Hi,

I read this thread with interest as I am struggling with esc choice for my 1/8 buggy conversion. I am running 5S lipo with a feigao 10L (suppose to pull max of about 61A under load) with mech brake. I have tried a couple of BK9920 esc & a MGM 160esc rated at 99A & 160A continous. Unfortunately, with only a 13/46 gearing, I am getting overheating problems. In fact the mgm registered an over current event and in a subsequent run, mysteriously just shutdown & I can't get it to run anymore.

Your demonstration of the Quark esc is pretty impressive. With 14/46 gearing & the neu motor combo & 4S you're probably doing around 32000+rpm with theoretical speed of close to 40mph. Also totally agree that getting the round the corners will be quick as well. Try a 5S & you will probably hit 50mph but the tires will balloon & the buggy will be impossible to control even on asphalt. I've tried this with my 10L & found that the tires became the limiting factor at 40k+rpm. Will have to consider to strap some tape in the next set of tires if possible.

I don't know whether this is the right place to ask but anyway, do you know whether :

1) the Quark has a drag brake feature. Can it be turned off as I prefer free wheel under off throttle
2) it it possible to program the esc with forward only no brake no reverse ?

Thanks.

Regards,
Joe Ling
Malaysia

[starluckrc]

Drag brake can be turned off. The esc can be set for forward only with brake strength dialed to 0%. I have a few of the Monster 125B in stock not yet listed on the site.

[joeling]

Hi Jamie,

Been a while. How are you ?

Regards,
Joe Ling

PS : Oops sorry for going off-topic.

[NIC]

Hi Rocksalt,

I was one of the first to convert a a nitrobuggy to electric and have tested out lots of motor, battery and esc combinations.
My resent version of my Kanai 2 is a lipo-powered one. I have a similar set-up to campbellspurloc. I drive a Hacker B50-11L wich is a 2195/V motor with 2 Orion Platinum Lipo packs wired in series for 14,8V and 4800 mAh. The motor is geared 16/46 at the moment and have an Rc-monster clamp-on heatsink. The esc is a Schulze 18.149F.

This set-up is a REALLY good one in that sence that it is easy on the batteries and controller and is REALLY powerful. A B50-11L doesn´t draw thoose huge spikes from a standstill or slowcorners like a 8 or a 9L does wich is good for the batteries and esc. Don´t get me wrong it is seriously punchy and will smoke any nitro in acceleration on tarmac. No nitrobuggy will catch up even on the straights either.
Don´t just look at the overall topspeed when you choose your motor, even if your car is slightly slower on the very topend you will get to your topspeed ALOT faster then a nitro anyway because you have build up a lead from the exit of the last corner because of your acceleration. Because of that you will be quicker around a lap of the track especially if the track has good traction.
The most important thing is the set-up of the car, that it has good traction, the highest possible corneringspeeds and that it handles the jumps and bumpy sections well, then comes the power.

I can really recommend the Platinum packs not only for the power but also for the hard plastic protecting case.

A REALLY simple a and REALLY good way to do a electric conversion of a buggy is to flip the centerdiff around and make a new hole in the bottomplate for the spurgear. Then you make a plate either of carbonfibre or aluminum and mount it to the holes were the brakes normally sits on a nitro. You should also put a fastening screw for your motorplate near the bottom and in the middle of the centerdiff holder, to keep the motorplate from flexing. Then you mount your motor above the front center driveshaft just under the windscreen of the body. It will fit nicely under there and you have even room for a 80mm long motor :) !
You can also cut out a small pice of the front windscreen of the body just like you do for refuling a nitrobuggy but this is for abit of cooling of your motor :) !

Then buy the batteryholders from a Kyosho TwinForce and mount them on each side of the rear centershaft and as close as possible to the centerline.
The TF-batteryholders are REALLY good and protect your batteries well, they will also hold a 7 cell sub-c battery if you solder 6 cells inline with the last cells across the end of the pack. Infact the holders can take a 160X48mm big battery ;) .

Then lay your servo down on the right side of the bottomplate where it normally sits. Put your receiver and a small receiverpack or a Super BEC on the other left side of the bottomplate.
You will then have a perfect 50/50 left and right balanced car :) !
You can then make a simple plate the streches from the rear diffcase to the centerdiff and the mount your esc either above or under that plate, and then you are done, SIMPLE :eek: !

A similar lay-out has been made before by Rotary Rocket I think but he had the motor above the rear center driveshaft and moved the hole centerdiff forward. He had to shorten the front center driveshaft and extend the rear one. With this solution you don`t have the "problem" of changing the lenght of the center driveshafts and you get a little more weight forward, wich seems good, my buggy has abit of a problem keeping the front wheels down from the power :D !

NIC

[vad]

Hi Rocksalt,

I was one of the first to convert a a nitrobuggy to electric and have tested out lots of motor, battery and esc combinations.
My resent version of my Kanai 2 is a lipo-powered one. I have a similar set-up to campbellspurloc. I drive a Hacker B50-11L wich is a 2195/V motor with 2 Orion Platinum Lipo packs wired in series for 14,8V and 4800 mAh. The motor is geared 16/46 at the moment and have an Rc-monster clamp-on heatsink. The esc is a Schulze 18.149F.

This set-up is a REALLY good one in that sence that it is easy on the batteries and controller and is REALLY powerful. A B50-11L doesn´t draw thoose huge spikes from a standstill or slowcorners like a 8 or a 9L does wich is good for the batteries and esc. Don´t get me wrong it is seriously punchy and will smoke any nitro in acceleration on tarmac. No nitrobuggy will catch up even on the straights either.
Don´t just look at the overall topspeed when you choose your motor, even if your car is slightly slower on the very topend you will get to your topspeed ALOT faster then a nitro anyway because you have build up a lead from the exit of the last corner because of your acceleration. Because of that you will be quicker around a lap of the track especially if the track has good traction.
The most important thing is the set-up of the car, that it has good traction, the highest possible corneringspeeds and that it handles the jumps and bumpy sections well, then comes the power.

I can really recommend the Platinum packs not only for the power but also for the hard plastic protecting case.

A REALLY simple a and REALLY good way to do a electric conversion of a buggy is to flip the centerdiff around and make a new hole in the bottomplate for the spurgear. Then you make a plate either of carbonfibre or aluminum and mount it to the holes were the brakes normally sits on a nitro. You should also put a fastening screw for your motorplate near the bottom and in the middle of the centerdiff holder, to keep the motorplate from flexing. Then you mount your motor above the front center driveshaft just under the windscreen of the body. It will fit nicely under there and you have even room for a 80mm long motor :) !
You can also cut out a small pice of the front windscreen of the body just like you do for refuling a nitrobuggy but this is for abit of cooling of your motor :) !

Then buy the batteryholders from a Kyosho TwinForce and mount them on each side of the rear centershaft and as close as possible to the centerline.
The TF-batteryholders are REALLY good and protect your batteries well, they will also hold a 7 cell sub-c battery if you solder 6 cells inline with the last cells across the end of the pack. Infact the holders can take a 160X48mm big battery ;) .

Then lay your servo down on the right side of the bottomplate where it normally sits. Put your receiver and a small receiverpack or a Super BEC on the other left side of the bottomplate.
You will then have a perfect 50/50 left and right balanced car :) !
You can then make a simple plate the streches from the rear diffcase to the centerdiff and the mount your esc either above or under that plate, and then you are done, SIMPLE :eek: !

A similar lay-out has been made before by Rotary Rocket I think but he had the motor above the rear center driveshaft and moved the hole centerdiff forward. He had to shorten the front center driveshaft and extend the rear one. With this solution you don`t have the "problem" of changing the lenght of the center driveshafts and you get a little more weight forward, wich seems good, my buggy has abit of a problem keeping the front wheels down from the power :D !

NIC


Nic,
do you have any pictures of your current set up?

[campbellspurloc]

Nic
I totally agree with your opinion on your post. I too have tried the schultze, but mine eventually blew up so it is in Germany for repair. I have found the Quark to have a much better car profile, as the schultze is really a boat\airplane controller so I found the throttle and brake to not be so lineal. None the less it certainly worked. I found the same conclusion as you with the motor, but if you think yours has torque, try the NEU. I promise it will have more torque and run cooler. Can't say enough about this motor, the only problem is to find a controller that works with it. Schultze & Quark are the only controllers that have no problems with it.

I would love to see pic's of your conversion as I too have a K3 that I have converted.

Campbell

[socalBash]

Campbell ....

Hello there - great to see your thread and buggies on here. This is Steve ... from the Hot Box - the other 1/2 of the Tazer Guys, and the dude who comes out to Santa Ana with Bender ...

Folks I ve seen these buggies run, and let me tell you they are siiiick fast and have awesome run times. The torque these things have On Command is impressive .. any section of the track - they can leap over it ... with like zero run up. Amazing. They give all us nitro foolz all we can handle and then some.

Keep up the great work campbell and friends ... great stuff ...

Oh and folks if these guys are running and your turn marshalling ... keep your eyes open, these things run quiet, fast and stealth .. dont do like I did and walk in front of these things whilst airborn .. they'll leave a mark :-) Im still paying for that dumb move :-)

See ya out at Hot Box

PS - Brushless Tazer Truggy ... would be sick.

[starluckrc]

I used the same concept when doing my NMT conversion a while back. The motor up front and a saddle pack in the rear made perfect sense to me. Unfortunatel not enough room for my Twin Force trays. I have the same plans for my 1/8 buggy if I can ever get around to finishing it.

P.S. Hey joeling. Good to see you around!

[NIC]

Hi,

I will try to take some pics, it may take awile I´m moving right now and have alot to do. The conversion is a little bit in its early stages still with some "rough" edges and not that super clean wirering. I have had such a good time driving it and have left the final touch to be done later.
I think you have a basic idèa of how the lay-out is and looks.

campbellspurloc,
I just looked at the NEU motors and yours is more like my B50-7XL with the same weight and similar Kv. It didn´t look that big at first when I saw your pics. I haven´t tried the 7XL with my new layout yet but I bet it will pull alot more amps and be harder for the esc and batteries.
The motor run alot cooler though as I remembered from my previous lay-out.

I think you can get away with just the 1509/1.5Y and still leave the nitros in the dust.
I´ve heard from the airplane guys also that Neu-motors are very efficient and runs cool. It´s abit tempting to try one out.

NIC

[Rotary Rocket]

Loveing this thread...great job. Keep up the good work.

This made me want to dust off my converted buggy and use it again. :D

I do have to replace my Hacker controller though. It kept on overheating. Of course it didn't help that I ran 4S 8000.

Look forward to your 30 minute run time attempt.

Cheers.

[NIC]

Hi Rotary Rocket !

Good to hear from you again ! Thank you for your conversion you made, your idèa of the layout really helped me make my new lay-out.

I wanted to test the Orion Platinum packs in the 1/8 buggy and come to remember your lay-out you had on your buggy.

I had bought material for extending the driveshaft and all and was ready to start cutting the center driveshaft when I just happend to flipp the centerdiff around and saw that it would work ! Then after I saw that it only took a few hours and I had reconfigured the car to the new lay-out.

I will see if I`m going to race the buggy later this summer. I was at the track today and 1/8 buggy is a pretty fun class to run. But I just remembered why I haven´t run 1/8 buggy for awile. I just can´t stand how dirty the buggy becomes after a race on the tracks I drive at ! You have spent so much time making sure everything is in top condition only to see it beeing destroyed after a day of running.
Running electric though is a big improvement over nitro but still very dirty. Then you have all the maintence you have to put down on a dirttrack to keep in decent drivable shape. So alot of the time is spent NOT driving.

Maybe 1/8 off-road isn´t my game but if you want an adrenalin boost you can´t find a better vehicle then a 1/8 buggy for some bashing around your home that´s for sure.

NIC

[tripthreat]

Campbell and I are only a few weeks away from seeing how the Hyper 8 stacks up against real nitro competition. I am really looking forward to it. We have a few things to iron out this weekend, then we are clear for launch!

[Rotary Rocket]

Would this Quark controller be good to replace my old Hacker Comp controller?

I would be running it with a Pletti Max motor on 4S 8000 in a 1/8 buggy.

My goal is to run the full 25 minutes run time of the batts without thermaling the controller.

[campbellspurloc]

Would this Quark controller be good to replace my old Hacker Comp controller?

I would be running it with a Pletti Max motor on 4S 8000 in a 1/8 buggy.

My goal is to run the full 25 minutes run time of the batts without thermaling the controller.

This is a great controller, but I don't think it will go 25 minutes (maybe15-20) unless you are just bashing around or are on your lid alot. Just to clarify, I don't think there is a better controller out there, I just don't think anything will go 25mins in a fullout race condition with a driver that is driving hard and not flipping over.

[tripthreat]

Well stated.
Frank

[Rocksalt]

I think to go fast on a 1/10 scale is demanding enough.. let alone 1/8th scale! Question is, what controller will handle 30 minute race running, with what motor, and be able to hit 55mph?

Pipe dream?

[tripthreat]

I think to go fast on a 1/10 scale is demanding enough.. let alone 1/8th scale! Question is, what controller will handle 30 minute race running, with what motor, and be able to hit 55mph?

Pipe dream?


I don't think it's possible at this point, but it isn't far away. The batteries won't go 30 minutes at this point, and as for the 55mph, we gear according to track speed, if you tried to gear higher to hit a number like 55mph, the motor could be over geared, and thus cause overheating.

Frank

[Rocksalt]

I don't think it's possible at this point, but it isn't far away. The batteries won't go 30 minutes at this point, and as for the 55mph, we gear according to track speed, if you tried to gear higher to hit a number like 55mph, the motor could be over geared, and thus cause overheating.

Frank


I better go back to nitro, this is costing me a fortune!

I know you can't race 55mph, but it sure would be one fun buggy!

[Muck]

spurloc, nice, nice conversion. I like how clean the install is. I have bundles of wires on mine. I'm trying to find more reasons to buy a Quark for myself.

While I was studying your pictures and noticed something that might help. You need a little space under your fan (or air slots) so the air has some place to go otherwise, the fan spins with no air flow and no cooling. You probably fixed that already but, I thought might mention it.