380-8s damage?

[Rtsbasic]

I was trying to run my B3 eariler, and encountered a pretty serious problem with the motor (Feigao 380-8s). It stutters a lot when trying to pull away, no matter how much throttle you give it. Its not the ESC or vehicle - I dropped a 540 6s in there and it flew, no cogging problems at all. Using a Mtroniks Pro 1.07.

What I was thinking is maybe the windings have become damaged. I ran this motor in an RC10T and T2 a lot - and on 8-9 cells quite a lot. This ment the car spent a lot of time bouncing off the rear bumper, and sometimes if it flipped the windings coming out the end would get caught a bit and moved around. One of them (yellow one) is a lot eaiser to move than the other two, and I suspect this is the problem. I've tried taping it to the other two windings to stop it moving around, but its not helped its cogging problem. Surely if the winding was damaged though it'd be putting out a reduced power? It still feels faster than my 380-9s so i dont think the powers dropped. Once the motors going its fine, no excessive heat either.

[ElectricThunder]

I was trying to run my B3 eariler, and encountered a pretty serious problem with the motor (Feigao 380-8s). It stutters a lot when trying to pull away, no matter how much throttle you give it. Its not the ESC or vehicle - I dropped a 540 6s in there and it flew, no cogging problems at all. Using a Mtroniks Pro 1.07.

What I was thinking is maybe the windings have become damaged. I ran this motor in an RC10T and T2 a lot - and on 8-9 cells quite a lot. This ment the car spent a lot of time bouncing off the rear bumper, and sometimes if it flipped the windings coming out the end would get caught a bit and moved around. One of them (yellow one) is a lot eaiser to move than the other two, and I suspect this is the problem. I've tried taping it to the other two windings to stop it moving around, but its not helped its cogging problem. Surely if the winding was damaged though it'd be putting out a reduced power? It still feels faster than my 380-9s so i dont think the powers dropped. Once the motors going its fine, no excessive heat either.
Maybe the fact that the wire is movable/easily moved means that the ESC isn't getting accurate readings from that phase when it tries to determine where the rotor is? It can't be shorting out, because that would probably mean much bigger problems. That sucks though. :(

[chilledoutuk]

it sounds like its nackeered mate it could be a winding as you suspect.

I dont understand why they continue to make motors with the winding wire coming out when these is a major point of weakness.

In Most models they dont get bent very often its the only thing i dont like about the hacker c40 but that will change when they release there roar legal motor someday.

[starluckrc]

The stuttering does sound like it's having trouble in a phase. It will do the same with a bad solder joint but run fine without a load.

[Rtsbasic]

The soldering joints are all fine - no dry joints.

I guess there's no way to fix the damaged winding. Sucks a bit. Problem is its too easy for the windings to become damaged in a RWD truck. Its not been a problem for any of my other motors, but the windings on them are all a lot thicker, the 8s ones are very thin.

Wonder if it has any warranty :D I purchased it from Starluckrc 6 months ago, somehow I don't think so.

[ElectricThunder]

The soldering joints are all fine - no dry joints.

I guess there's no way to fix the damaged winding. Sucks a bit. Problem is its too easy for the windings to become damaged in a RWD truck. Its not been a problem for any of my other motors, but the windings on them are all a lot thicker, the 8s ones are very thin.

Wonder if it has any warranty :D I purchased it from Starluckrc 6 months ago, somehow I don't think so.
Have you tried reconfiguring the motor can so that the motor wires come out of the front of the motor instead of the rear? I know the 380C motors can do that, as can the 540C motors. If/when you get a new one, try that instead. That should cure your problems of having motor wires getting banged around in RWD vehicles.:D

[Rtsbasic]

Its a 380, not a 380C, thus the windings can't really come out the other end.

[ElectricThunder]

Its a 380, not a 380C, thus the windings can't really come out the other end.
Ahhhh.... nevermind. :o

[Rtsbasic]

Guess there's not many people that run straight 380's these days..only reason I still do is because my 9s was free and the 8s was so cheap from Jamie I thought why not :) Maybe i'll be forced into buying a 380C now..wonder if a 380C-6t will be faster than my 540 6s on 7 cells in a B3, with the right gearing and my new gp3700's its got some very impressive performance.

[tcolesen]

Have you tried reconfiguring the motor can so that the motor wires come out of the front of the motor instead of the rear? I know the 380C motors can do that, as can the 540C motors. If/when you get a new one, try that instead. That should cure your problems of having motor wires getting banged around in RWD vehicles.:D

The 540C motors have a fixed front endbell, so they can't be switched around. :p

[ElectricThunder]

The 540C motors have a fixed front endbell, so they can't be switched around. :p
:eek: Oops. Maybe it's just the 380Cs then. Heh! :o

RTS- That'd be interesting. I would bet the 380C6t would spool up quicker and reach top speed faster. You have the mtroniks version of the 540 6s right (which, by your reports, is a better motor than the feigao 540 6s?)? :confused:

[Rtsbasic]

Actually, I have a Mtroniks branded one, and a regular Feigao branded one. They seem to run the same - I did a back to back comparison a few months ago with my T2. I don't get why people knock it so much, as long as you take time to find good gearing and most importantly use batteries that can handle the amp bursts, its a strong motor. My B3 with one in right now on 7 cells must be 50mph+, by the numbers its only 48mph, but the tyres are ballooning like crazy at them speeds, wheelies aren't uncommon either. Must borrow a mates GPS and get a vid sometime.

[ElectricThunder]

Actually, I have a Mtroniks branded one, and a regular Feigao branded one. They seem to run the same - I did a back to back comparison a few months ago with my T2. I don't get why people knock it so much, as long as you take time to find good gearing and most importantly use batteries that can handle the amp bursts, its a strong motor. My B3 with one in right now on 7 cells must be 50mph+, by the numbers its only 48mph, but the tyres are ballooning like crazy at them speeds, wheelies aren't uncommon either. Must borrow a mates GPS and get a vid sometime.
That's pretty good for 7 cells. Definitely not bad. How're the temps when you run it like that, and gearing? Conservative gearing or overgearing or what? :confused:

[Rtsbasic]

Temps are fine - controller comes off warm to hot, but no thermal yet. With this setup last summer I used to have to run a fan due to the amount of amps it'll pull. Motor temp is always only warm, only times its gotten hot was in my RC10GT conversion, which weighed quite a lot.

Gearing is 22/81, FDR 8.84. Quite steep for a high revving motor, but if I gear any lower ironically it seems to accelerate not as good. With this gearing it runs very nice and claims my mates 1/8 buggy on top speed. Runtime is a bit short but meh.

[ElectricThunder]

Gearing is 22/81, FDR 8.84. Quite steep for a high revving motor, but if I gear any lower ironically it seems to accelerate not as good. With this gearing it runs very nice and claims my mates 1/8 buggy on top speed. Runtime is a bit short but meh.
Wow, definitely taller gearing. Sounds good, but would suck here in Florida temps wise... :rolleyes:. Must be an amp-hungry motor if you can't gear it any lower without acceleration suffering. :eek: