Kyosho FW-05/FW-06 Nitro Touring Car [Archive]

velix

06-23-2006, 04:35 PM

Just finished 1 lit (0.4 gallons) of fuel. So far it is still running not on max revs, but mannaged to shift into 2nd gear. Can anyone suggest some tips for the set up as the car is badly oversteering. Got the stock tires (slicks 25B) and stock shocks. As it came from the box it was toooooo low. Had to pull it up. I have downloaded the set up for FW05s from the japanese sight
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/setting/data/fw05s_20031207_ishi_e.pdf
and
http://www.kyosho.co.jp/web/download/setting/data/fw05s_20040111_kcup_champ_e.pdf
but I do not know if this is a good starting point. To cut it short what is your experience.
I have to say that I am pretty inexperienced with the on road cars as I was in the past using an off road buggy (7.5 inferno).
Thnx in advance

donny

06-27-2006, 04:27 PM

I´ve haven´t done too much on the car. I´ve change to foam tires 30mm rear and 26mm front. Raised the car also a bit and changed the springs both rear and front. I´m getting this week stabilizer bars (I think their called that) both rear and front. I´m also thinking of changing the shocks. But anyway the car works great.

donny

06-27-2006, 04:30 PM

Velix

I couldn´t open the pdf files with the setups. If you have them could you e-mail them to: peter.erna@kolumbus.fi

velix

06-28-2006, 02:10 PM

Velix

I couldn´t open the pdf files with the setups. If you have them could you e-mail them to: peter.erna@kolumbus.fi

Hi Donny,

I will send the files to you but I think that for reading them you will have to upgrade to Adobe reader 7 (it's free) and then also download the Japanese character upgrade (it will be automatic when you try to open the files). Anyway understanding the files will not be easy as you have to understand the the basics of the things like: Camber, caster, toe angles appart from the oil density and spring stiffness. Once I have stumbled uppon a site which is explaining all that stuff nicely but I haven't bookmarked it :mad: I'll try to find it tonight. It will be nice if some more experienced guys would join in and explain to us what is REALLY written in these files. You will also need some not that cheap tools to be really able to follow the setup of the car. Good luck.
Velix

velix

06-28-2006, 04:52 PM

Found the link: http://www.rctek.com/handling/index.html

velix

06-29-2006, 04:20 PM

Allmost everything is clear from the sheet except couple of things.

Hiroyoshi Ishikawa set up

Front suspension
1. shock piston: pure kit (referring to shocks VZ75?)
2. camber angle: 0G/1G (what does 0G/1G stand for: positive/negative?)
3. stabilizer bar: (regular VZ84 or soft VZ84S)
4. ground clearance: (can the ground clearance be adjusted with some separate screw or is just the result of all the previous settings?)

Rear suspension
1. shock pos: U/L (the holes indicated by japanese letters that resemble upsidedown T and T?)
2. upper arm pos: in (U/L) out (U/L) (to which part n. it is reffering to and which holes?)
3. toe angle: one side 3deg (does it mean IN 3deg?)
4. rear sus holder: H/L (is this the part n. VS25?)

OK and few more questions:
1. How much is the tuned pipe like VSW52R bringing to the performance because I am considering to purchase the kit VSW2006AS which includes shocks VZ75, diff. shafts VSW6, front VSW84S and rear VSW51 stabilizer bars and the a.m. pipe? And is it really worth 200 Eur (source kyosho.de) :confused:

2. Which diff. shafts? the a.m. or VSW7 or VSW15

3. Has anyone tried a 4 stroke kit VSW23?

I feel a little bit :eek: because to bring the car to the specification from the sheet will cost allmost like a new car.

I would really appreciate an answer as I would like to prepare well for my first race ;)

StevePond

07-01-2006, 01:50 AM

They're running the World Cup this weekend in France, so we should have some pretty solid set-ups posted on the Kyosho website in the next week or so.

velix

07-06-2006, 03:51 PM

They're running the World Cup this weekend in France, so we should have some pretty solid set-ups posted on the Kyosho website in the next week or so.

Have you found some set-ups? If you have, can you plase post a link.

I have mannaged to answer most of my questions so if anyone if interested I can post answers.
The only question still unanswerred is what does 0G/1G stands for( +/- or -/+)

Also one more important difference between 05S and 05T, except the 2 speed transmission, is the impossibillity to change the toe in/out angle on FS and camber angle on the RS on the 05T. This can be easily solved by ordering the parts for 05S.

I am still not happy with the handling of my car, it is still to oversteering. Any one mannaged something interesting with the stock car? Most probably I will have to order the rear stabilizer bar to improve the handling at the back.

StevePond

07-15-2006, 01:34 PM

Sorry, I haven't received any information from the drivers yet, but as soon as we do, I'll be sure to post it. I'm not sure that it will solve your problem, however, because racers tend to prefer a car that oversteers.

The 0g/1g reference relates to suspension settings with the car on the ground (1g) or suspensed on set-up blocks (0g). For example, if a set-up sheet tells you to set front camber at +2 degrees at 0g, that means you should be setting camber while the car is on set-up blocks with the tires off the ground and the suspension at full droop.

Do you have the "Plus" version of the FW-05T or the standard version? I'm assuming the standard version because the Plus has all the adjustable linkages. You might want to try giving the car a little more rear toe angle. I find that adding a little more rear toe will settle the car down if it oversteers too much. use a 2.5mm hex driver and twist the rear-most pivot ball counterclockwise about 1/2 turn on each side of the car and see if it improves handling. Try another 1/2 turn if you think it needs more. Beyond that, I would suggest changing spring pre-load a little. Reduce spring pre-load slightly in the rear, and/or increase it in the front. You can also back out the "droop" screws to give the car a little more suspension travel in the rear, which should also increase rear traction - they're the long set screws in the suspension arms that limit the suspension travel. Back them out a turn or two and see what happens.

velix

07-22-2006, 04:06 PM

Thnx Steve for the suggestions,
In the past I was racing go karts (to much weight today :o ) the camber would always be negative. May be that is why I have had a problem because my car was set with -2deg camber at the rear. Also on go karts to increase the stabillity at the rear the front width had to be lower than the one at the rear. Will the trick also work on the RC cars? What I see from the setting sheets is that front width is always equal to the rear width!
So far I have made the rear really soft (only 1mm preload and shock position as from the setting sheet, otherwise it is toching the ground), and I will add 1mm more (total of 3mm) at the front. I also prefer to have the car little bit over steering but this one, so far, at every touch of the gas if the wheels are not straight is making a 360 turn.

It would be nice that some other guys join in, and tell their experience with the stock car and stock parts.

stonely0

08-30-2006, 08:09 AM

Mine out of box had a slight toe out on the front wheels... and is oversteering as well but i find it better control at higher speed the problem is when you come out of a corner or when you reduce your speed the oversteering problem will be more there & is difficuit to keep straight. I figure the only way to solve it is to use a better TX and RX that had EPA and stuff for the steering adjustment. But then that will mean you'll have to change all the original Preflex servo & receiver.

It's a nice bashing car. my only complain out of box is that the front & Rear shocks are too soft and the chasis is set way too low. I think the chasis plate is one of a few heavy version i had ever seen in RC on road.

Anyway to raise the chasis clearance without spending money on parts? Mine had scratch all under it.

MattRX

09-19-2006, 07:13 PM

Hi Guys

I bought a second hand FW-05s recently and have been slowly working on making the car perform as it should.

One thing I am not sure of in the setup sheet is the differential setup. The setup sheet specifies the weight of diff oil, but does anyone know if they have two or four spider gears fitted?

My last outing was cut short by the exhaust manifold falling off. What I found was that the manifold port opening is significantly smaller than the engine port. I have tried shaping it a little. It will be interesting to see how it goes.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/mattrx8/FW-05/Unportedmanifold.jpg
Manifold port. You can see the carbon deposits where the manifold port is smaller.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/mattrx8/FW-05/Unportedmanifold1.jpg
Same again

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d93/mattrx8/FW-05/portedmanidild1.jpg
Ported manifold. Still untested.

I doubt any of this will make a huge difference to perfomance as the rest of the manifold is such a horrible shape. One day I intend to replace the manifold and pipe with a better model, but at this point in time I also have some handeling issues and the last thing I need is more power.

Matt

pleaseletmeon34

09-19-2006, 08:54 PM

Hi Guys
One thing I am not sure of in the setup sheet is the differential setup. The setup sheet specifies the weight of diff oil, but does anyone know if they have two or four spider gears fitted?

I doubt any of this will make a huge difference to perfomance as the rest of the manifold is such a horrible shape. One day I intend to replace the manifold and pipe with a better model, but at this point in time I also have some handeling issues and the last thing I need is more power.

Matt

Not sure what setup sheet you used but if it was for the 05S or 05T, I would say their was only 2. If the sheet was for an 05R or 05RR Its probably 4
As for the manifold, I'm sure it helps but will you see any difference?????

BALISTC

11-22-2006, 10:10 PM

Well I've just gotten an FW-05T for fairly cheap.

I've done a comparison between the parts explosions for the FW05T and FW05R, and the only differences are:

upper deck and the chassis plate are different on R
different shocks on the R
centax clutch vs shoe type clutch
adjustable turnbuckles, steering links and sway bars on the R
Vented brake disc and dogbone centre shafts on the R
Fuel tank is different on the R

Apart from that, the front and rear assemblies, including the diffs, are identical! The chassis plate even looks the same apart from a bigger cut out on the R chassis.

I'm tempted to get myself a 3 Racing FW05R chassis, CF shock towers and CF upper deck, buy the few left over bits i.e. fuel tank, shocks, etc...and then fit up a pull start O.S. .18 engine.

It'll be like a "RTR" FW05R :)

MattRX

11-22-2006, 11:17 PM

As for the manifold, I'm sure it helps but will you see any difference?????

No, I could not see any difference, but I was happier.

That manifold was warped when I started to play with it, so I machined the face flat so it would seal against the engine and it warped again. I re-machined and on my race debut it cracked. I was lucky as it caused a minor lean out but not enough to do any damage. I didn't realise until after the race (and my victory!!).

I have since bought an 'Eagle' brand manifold, but have not had time to fit it yet.

Matt

skylineTT

07-17-2007, 04:36 PM

i just got one in a trade. im going to a tube header and a diff pipe. ill see if it helps.

ev1er

07-31-2007, 04:35 AM

I am going to go at my LHS and buy this supercar today!:D:D:D:D:p

edwagon

08-10-2007, 03:54 AM

I have a fw05T plus and am interested in upgrading it

I have found that with foam tyres its actually pretty capable around a track even in stock form, but I want more!!

I have ported the gxr15 and its goes well, but more power is always good!
Im not racing it officially so I don't have any class rules to follow, what would be a good engine to upgrade to? Its been suggested that a .18 os engine (18tx or tz?) would wake it up a bit. I know its not a straight fit, does ayone ACTUALLY KNOW whats involved in fitting a more powerful engine, and which would be a good upgrade?

If I stay with the gxr15, which header and pipe is recommended? what diameter pipe? How much better do they go with an am exhaust system? Do they dull midrange power at all to get the better top end?

At the moment my chassis is absolutly stock standard - what are the first things I should be upgrading? Is the spool front diff and open rear a reasonable setup?

Any comments?
Cheers!

StevePond

08-12-2007, 11:38 AM

You can install an 18TZ, you'd just need to find a good rear exhaust system for the right side of the car. Both O.S. and Kyosho make good competition exhaust systems specifically for this car, so that shouldn't be a problem. I would suggest a good competition .12 engine such as Sirio, Novarossi, O.S., etc. While they are a little smaller in displacement, they get all the development because they're a racing class engine. The better competition engines put out much more power than the standard engine. The next best upgrade after the engine would be the clutch. The standard clutch is heavy and engages very early. A racing centax-type clutch is adjustable (and higher maintenance), but it allows the clutch to engage when the engine is in a more suitable rpm range, which makes it seem like you've got even more horsepower. You can also try the 1/8 buggy-type clutch shoes and springs as a lower maintenance alternative. The weight of the clutch shoes is lighter and there’s a range of springs to “adjust” when the clutch engages.

I changed the ring and pinion gears in mine from the stock 40/13 setup to 37/13. The stock gearing is very similar to the belt car, but the FW-05 gets out of the corners so quickly that engine seems to run out of rpm before the end of the straightaway. The 37T ring gears give the car more top speed and it’s doesn’t need all the punch it’s got anyway, so that’s a good racing upgrade. Anti-roll bars would probably help the handling quite a bit on a racetrack, but they’re not much help in a dirty parking lot. A spool front differential may help in certain racing conditions, but like the anti-roll bars, it’s not very practical unless you have the high traction of a prepared racing surface.

edwagon

08-12-2007, 08:25 PM

Thanks for your comments!

With regards to the engine conversion, I understand that the gxr15 in the car at the moment uses a non standard pattern for the crankshaft 'output'.
I know that kyosho produce flywheels for 'os' engines, but am not sure exactly how the interchangability works. What type of crankshaft does the replacement engine need to have and what conversion parts will I need to use to make it all work? Will I still be able to use my clutch bell and 2 speed etc, and just change the flywheel/clutch etc etc?
Is mounting the engine a problem? what needs to happen here?

I have read these questions a dozen times on different foums but have never seen a straight answer!! :confused:

donny

08-27-2007, 06:32 PM

I´m getting a lot of understeering with the car. I´ve tried a lot of different things but I can´t get rid of it. What to do???

edwagon

08-28-2007, 08:18 AM

ITs very likely that your understeering is caused by tyres. The kit tyres are hopeless for anything other than skids, and cause horrendous understeer as soon as speed starts building up.
The understeer on mine was cured by running good foam tyres (im using GRP foams). They will make it handle like the guns, with almost zero understeer - just lots of grip!

One thing to watch is that the rear tyres tend to wear faster than the fronts. On foams, this can cause quite a large difference in tyre diameter. If the front tyres have a larger diameter than the rear, it will cause horrible, 'sticky' understeer, which won;t go away even when you slow right down. Having larger rears causes the opposite, where the car will just want to spin all the time.

Of course there are other things which could be causing your understeer, like broken parts or totally wrong alignment settings, but having played around with my fw05T quite alot now, the one thing which made the most dramatic difference to the under/oversteer balance is the tyres.

donny

08-28-2007, 05:11 PM

I´m using foam tires. I´ve also noticed the wearing of the tires but I´m still getting understeer. I´ve tried different settings with the front camber and caster angles but I´m not getting to the right settings. What kind of angles do you run with??

edwagon

08-29-2007, 03:13 AM

I'm running zero toe at the front with around 2 degrees of negative camber.
At the rear, Im running some toe in (not sure how much exactly - quite alot according to my eyecrometer) and around 2 degrees of negative camber. I havn't tried playing with the castor.

When I said 'zero understeer' maybe I should have said 'minimal understeer'. It certainly doesn't plough off the track, but if my entry speeds are too high then it will understeer a bit rather than oversteer. Exiting corners under power makes it go into a satisfying four wheel drift.

It tends towards understeer in the faster corners and oversteers in the slower corners, but is basically very neutral.

I try to take corners 'slow in, fast out' which seems to work pretty well, and
I have been told that this is basically what is to be expected when running a spool front axle as the fw05t does- You lose a lot of turn-in but gain in corner exit. You can use the excellent braking ability to try and shift the weight foward and help get into the corner.

What about aerodynamics? what body are you running? do you have an enormous rear wing which creating lots of rear downforce?

What type of corners make it understeer? fast, open corners or tight corners? Has anyone else had a drive of your car?

donny

08-29-2007, 05:46 AM

What about aerodynamics? what body are you running? do you have an enormous rear wing which creating lots of rear downforce?

What type of corners make it understeer? fast, open corners or tight corners? Has anyone else had a drive of your car?

I get the understeering in slow tight turns. Fast turns aren´t such a problem. Nobody else has driven my car but people at the local track was asking if I get understeer because I had a bigger wing than the standard. But the wing isn´t the problem because it does the same with or without the wing. The problem is in low speed tight corners where the wing doesn´t have any effect. I´m going to try to change the front toe in and camber. I´ll see what happens....

edwagon

08-30-2007, 03:40 AM

Without being there its hard to diagnose, but here are a few things that I would be trying and checking if I had a similar problem.
Firstly, are you definanly getting enough steering lock? I found that its easy to accidentally bump the dual rate adjustment wheel and end up turning the "lockstops" in so far that the car hardly steers!
Is your steering servo in good shape?
Have you tried running without your body - ie: is your body somehow interfering with the wheels and tyres so you don;t get full lock?
Can you put bigger diameter rear tyres on the back (or worn fronts and new rears) and make the car oversteer badly? or does it still understeer?
You do have a fw05Tplus with the solid front diff? what about trying to stiffen the rear diff with heavy oil to try and help the rear swing around a bit more at lower speeds? Or try out a front one-way? or maybe even just for an experiment, swap the solid diff to the rear and put the gear diff in the front. It will probably make it oversteer like crazy but that might suit your driving style :cool:

I tried going back to some toe-out on the front (thats how it came out of the box) and it hasn't made much of a difference to how it drives generally, but it is much easier to hold a drift when i start throwing it around! so a little toe-out might be worth a try?

StevePond

08-30-2007, 11:54 AM

Ed - sorry I haven't been back in a while. Did you get an answer to your clutch questions?

edwagon

08-31-2007, 05:42 AM

Hi - no, I didn't really get an answer!
Since that post, my gxr15 died (long story) and after doing some research and some shopping around, ended up just buying another gxr15.
I looked at an OS engine and realised that apart from the clutch and engine mounts, I'd also need a new exhaust manifold and either a pull starter or a starter box, and it all suddenly started looking like too much expense and hassle. I also read in the fw05r thread that the stock cast ring gear and pinions don't survive very well with high power, and upgrading them to steel was just going to end up costing too much for a toy car!!

I did get 'special' clutch shoes (graphite type material?) for the gxr15 and that seems to have helped it along a little with later engagment (as you suggested!) - the shoes came with a second spring but im not sure if its a different tension or just a spare, but its going well for the moment so I'll leave it alone!

KTP

09-11-2007, 12:32 PM

i fixed my understeer by running an "LSD" in the rear, used fuel tubing to tighten the diffs a bit, its has an oversteer effect but doesnt understeer as much. otheralternative is to change the diffs around which will give massive oversteer effects :P

ev1er

09-11-2007, 01:55 PM

I do think that i have the most hop-uped FW-05T:D
What do you think of it?:D

MattRX

09-11-2007, 06:08 PM

I´m getting a lot of understeering with the car. I´ve tried a lot of different things but I can´t get rid of it. What to do???

Hi Donny

What car do you have?

Some versions of the FW-05T have a locked front diff. This causes massive understeer on corner entry, but you get fantastic acceleration on corner exit. This sounds bad I know, but when bashing it is a real PITA, but when on a track it does make the car quite quick and good at overtaking.

Otherwise the only times I have had chronic understeer are when I had a massive rear wing (a quick trim with some scissors fixed it) or had the car running on a very low traction track. My FW-05S was almost undriveable until the tyres had warmed up and then she was glued to the track.

I would recommend some 27 or close to compound tyres. I have used both 'Take Off' and Kyosho brand tires and happily recommend them.

Good Luck

Matt

KTP

09-12-2007, 12:35 AM

is that a custom upper deck ev1er?

ev1er

09-12-2007, 03:35 PM

What do you guys think about my car?:)

MattRX

09-12-2007, 10:16 PM

What do you guys think about my car?:)

Custom fiberglass upper deck, threaded alloy shocks (Yeah racing) and painted black expansion chamber. What have I missed? It looks good, but I would not be calling it heavily modified yet.

Why did you make a new upper deck? I have issues with how the standard upper deck attaches to the lower deck and provides almost no additional torsional stiffness, but the deck itself is ok.

Matt

ev1er

09-13-2007, 02:47 PM

:D:D
Someone else who wants to post a comment to my car?:P
What else should I upgrade the car with?

MattRX

09-13-2007, 06:42 PM

:D:D
What else should I upgrade the car with?

Stiffer lower plate
Front and rear sway bars
Engine
Upgrade chassis to FW-05R

It all depends on what you are trying to achieve. Are you trying to change the compromises the manufacturer made when designing and in what way or are your modifications more aesthetic based?

Matt

StevePond

10-08-2007, 12:24 PM

I do think that i have the most hop-uped FW-05T:D
What do you think of it?:D

I posted this ealier but it was lost in the server change. Unfortunately you don't have a geniune Kyosho FW-05. That's a cheap Chinese copy. I don't say that to be mean - it's unfortunate that we have to deal with these type of junk vendors that just make poor quality copies and trick unsuspecting buyers into thinking they're getting a genuine product.

StevePond

10-17-2007, 10:24 AM

FYI - there's a new version of this car coming out soon - the FW-06! It's a very similar car with a lot of the same great features, but it's got a few revisions and upgrades that should make it even better. The front upper suspension mounts are lighter, strong and allow more adjustment, a few fuel tank eliminates the sometimes troublesome primer pump, and there's a new design for the protective radio box, just to name a few. Here's a link:

http://www.kyoshoamerica.com/carsandtrucks/onroadcars/31368B.asp

BTW, the first version will come with the sharp-looking Aston Martin DBR9 body. ;)

ev1er

10-23-2007, 05:44 PM

****!
I knew it!
That bastard sold me a cheap chinese copy!
The car sucks, and its broken:(

KTP

10-26-2007, 01:43 AM

the fw06 doesnt look much different to the fw05t plus.

never knew they could make cheap copies of these things....did you get it like that ev1er?

i've got the old school ones (they accidently sent 5 to my local hobby shop) so i got it when it pretty much first came to australia. mine doesnt have adjustable shocks and turnbuckles?

wondering how many times have you guys changed your piston and sleeve and how much fuel did you run in each of them.

pleaseletmeon34

11-16-2007, 02:01 AM

Steve,

Will there be a conversion kit to the 06? I know I want a few of the gas tanks.

"Kyosho is the Key" ;)

StevePond

11-16-2007, 12:24 PM

I don't believe there will be a conversion kit, but the parts will certainly be available. BTW - that's the funniest song I've heard in the while. ;)

pleaseletmeon34

11-16-2007, 12:55 PM

I hope so.... I tried to PM you about that a few times..... but PMs to you don't work.

JollyRoger

01-02-2008, 06:18 PM

The sad thing is I've a FW-05T and know very little about setups. I bought mine second had (obviously hardly used) but it is like glue on the track. No other car I've tried matches it. It is weak on hairpins and total speed is low compared to other sedans but thus far the superior handling makes up for most of the speed lack.

I've a NovaRossi 12 that I want to install but I've little experience as for dealing with the differences. I know there is a shaft issue and I also understand that I will need an engine mount. I've no local stores so if anyone has some of the answers as to what parts I will need to make the conversion I'd appriciate them. I've also an old .15 Pro 4Tec and I just piced up a NTC3 but that is not on the road yet as it needs servos and a reciever still. The 4Tec even being one of the older versions is far faster than the FW-05T but the handling is so far below that racing it is a risky proposition as parts are not easily obtainable. The only damage I've done the FW-05T is a blown exhast gasket when a screw came loose so I'm not too worried about it for parts as yet. I Hope to have the cash to eventually upgrade to a newer model but if the Novarossi does as expected it may very well be a while.

ngeronikolos

01-22-2008, 02:53 PM

Hello to everyboby,

I had broken the spring of the CLUTCH SHOE ASSY. So,I fix it but the length of the spring now is smaller(I cut a small piece).Do you thing that this can be problem??

Please suggest me a better CLUTCH SHOE ASSY(exept of the IF204)compatible with the FW-05T!!!

Can I use upgrade parts for a better performace-reffering to the PARTS
VS057 FLY WHEEL
IF204 CLUTCH SHOE ASSY
VS058 CLUTCH BELL

Please suggest
Regards
Nikos

glodera1

02-13-2008, 10:26 PM

I just bought a fw-05t+ and love the car,but the first thing i noticed is the nasty looking header. I have been looking for a tuned pipe and manifold. I found a pipe on ebay. Its by THS Racing. It looks like it has a smooth flow and nice finish.

Is this this THS pipe a good pipe for the gx15r or should I spend the extra money for the Kyosho tuned pipe? Thanx

StevePond

02-15-2008, 06:46 PM

I'm not familiar with the THS header and pipe, but if it's designed to work with a side exhaust engine and a right side installation, then you should be good to go. The Kyosho pipes and headers are always available of course.

miguelrod

04-08-2008, 07:53 PM

Hi i also got on of those:driving: FW-05t plus'S at fist i was really mad and didn't know what i was doing with the car so a blow my piston (while running it in):mad: thats the wosts thing that you have to do when you get your car but once you have run it in it run's like a charm. Makes you think your a :winner: :D Well my car is just very ill i snaped the clutch spring and broke my clutch bell so im waiting to get that part?:D

:teacher:hi just want to know witch side should my diff's be cause one of my dift has diff lock but witch side should the locked diff be

miguelrod

04-08-2008, 08:09 PM

:wave: so hers my cars :D i like :D

miguelrod

04-10-2008, 05:42 PM

Dam ordered the part will take 2/3 week ow well no on road car for a while so will have to use my savage x

sperring

06-21-2008, 03:54 AM

I had a bit of a crash which caused the engine to move thus threading the gears of my car. Iv'e got the spare part but am having trouble finishing the disasembly of the centre gearbox, there are two little screws which im affraid to thread in either side. Can anyone help me please?

MattRX

06-23-2008, 07:06 PM

sperring

06-24-2008, 06:51 AM

Can you post some pics. I have had my FW-05 in parts many times and can probably help.

Matt

ive managed to get everything together now. my only trouble now is that it wont get into second gear! Would u be able to help me with this?

MattRX

06-24-2008, 05:44 PM

ive managed to get everything together now. my only trouble now is that it wont get into second gear! Would u be able to help me with this?

Sorry, I only have a single speed gearbox in mine. I have played with a V1S two speed. They use a one-way bearing on low gear and a centrifugal hook to grab second gear. If the FW is the same I can probably help.

Good Luck

Matt

sperring

06-25-2008, 03:58 AM

Sorry, I only have a single speed gearbox in mine. I have played with a V1S two speed. They use a one-way bearing on low gear and a centrifugal hook to grab second gear. If the FW is the same I can probably help.

Good Luck

Matt

ive got no idea, would it be that the engine is in the wrong spot or that i didnt put the gearbox back together properly?

pleaseletmeon34

06-25-2008, 07:05 AM

This might help

redeyez69

08-04-2008, 06:55 PM

hello noob here to this hobby but i just invested in this.......Kyosho PureTen GP FW-05T 4wd Race Tuned saloon racing nitro car with a 2 speed box. Fast Fast Fast!!!!!!!!

Here for auction is an absolute ballistic car with the tuned pipe and 2 speed gearbox this thing is ready to race 80 KMH+

listed is few spec's for you

4 Wheel drive

Brand new Clutch, clutch bell, hoped up 1st and 2nd gears.

GXR 15 Pull Start Nitro Engine Race Version.

CPV Racing Air Filter

CPV Racing Tuned Pipe

Running on foam tyres

3 body shells all in good used condition BMW M3 ferrari and subaru impreza

Extra set of rubber tyres on rims

Glow Starter

Controller (Kyosho Perfex)

Full set of manuals.

Excellent runner, usual running scratches on the underside of the chassis
(its for my son honest :D )
whats the best fuel % to run this baby ? at the moment seller sugested 16% is this ok??
oh i got lots of questions will pick your brains later,when i need help
cheers guys