First Electric: RC10B4

[HPI_freak]

so this is a LOT of firsts for me. 1st electric car, 1st Kit i have ever built (not by choice, but for nitro cars, RTR is cheaper) and this will be my first Brushless powered car. i LOVE this kit so far. almost done with the build. just got to do the shocks and glue the front tires. i got what you see in the pics built in about 5 hours. i found out that i LOVE kits. they are SO much fun!!!

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00002.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00003.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00004.jpg
front half done
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00005.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00006.jpg

[highroller]

Yes that's why I like kits and Associated, although I have raced other brands. From the RC10 to B4 all have provided excellent use, although the only problem I ever encountered was with the B2 first batches of kits had problems with the shock caps not sealing properly but Associated sent me replacements. For racing I do spend a longer periods test fitting parts, also trimming and polishing the metal parts (reduces friction) with transmission and shock assembly taking up a majority of assembly time. Usually I do tires first as it takes 24 hours for the CA to properly cure, trimming the inner form so it fits correctly then test fit it so there are no high or uneven areas before gluing once the fit is correct glue it, place on a piece of plastic (to prevent tires from sticking to work surface then while waiting for glue to cure start assembly next day glue the other side while continuing with assembly (test fitting, polishing parts) so tires are ready when you get to the final stages.
What I do as a final step after installation of electronic gear and adjusting tie rods is break in the tranny by hooking motor directly to a power source of 2-5 volts and running it for about 15 minutes so internal gears have a chance to seat themselves. Diff, slipper are checked after breakin to ensure everthing is working correcting then it off to race.
For bashing or recreational racers this extra work may sound unnecessary but for the experienced racer the little extra time spent in assembly go a long way in how much you reduce friction and suspension binding problems.

[CarbonMadness]

Wow, you got rc feet :D

Glad you like the kit, and fun at the track.

You have whent to the dark side of rc :) (kits or old school)

[HPI_freak]

got it all done, now all i need to do is get a (better) battery pack and my Brushless system

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00007.jpg

[z-man280]

looks good, pretty rewarding doing a kit, isnt it? even tho alost everything is rtr, it still is nice to tear into those bags for the first time~

my first kit was the old kyosho sandmaster, then a RC10 gold tub,then a kyosho tracker, then a clod, then a.......lost count, love building them, its a "feeling" i guess, like building an engine, and hearing it fire the first time. VERY rewarding....

[ErikRC10]

A B4 was also my fist kit. Yesterday I finished my brand new FT B4. The threaded shocks are really a pain though, I ripped a couple of O rings putting them together. I could have had it done on tuesday but the shocks where so annoying I just let it sit there until friday.

I would have and went and raced it today but I don't have the body painted and it rained so it doesn't matter.

What brushless system are you planning on running and what type of batteries are you planning on getting?

[HPI_freak]

Novak Brushless 5.5 and for the batteries, i still dont know wether i am going to get Lipo or NiMH. if i go NiMH, MaxAmps had a GP4300 matched pack, pre-assembled with Deans connectors. if i go Lipo, ill get cheaper ones.

[Peterbilt]

Looks great. Ive always wanted to build a kit, but I dunno what kit I want to buy...

[HPI_freak]

my buddy fz1 hooked me ups with some vintage electronics to borrow. he lent me an old TEKIN speed control and a Speed Works Joel "Magic" Johnson motor. it RIPPS with that motor. man is so smooth. is so easy to control because its so light. only problem is the only batteries i have right now are 1500mAH NiCD duratrax stick pack that i use for my roto-starts, run time is about 2-3 minutes ;) fun wile it lasts though.

[HPI_freak]

its all done. its running nd now has a fully painted body!!!

http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00016.jpg
http://i25.photobucket.com/albums/c86/HPI_Freak/DSC00015.jpg

now what Novak Brushless should i get? i see alot of people with the Novak Super Sport Plus (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKUX5&P=7) is the Novak Velocity Racing 5.5 (http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXKSW0&P=7) too much for a B4? or should i just get the super sport?

[z-man280]

looks good man! isnt it amazing how quick they are with just a stock motor in them? gotta love that "about 3 lb" running wieght!!
Mine was a missle with a mild 15t in it and 1700's....great, now i have to go look for ANOTHER buggy..........THANKS ALOT!

lol,
~Ron

[ErikRC10]

Whoa! Great looking body! Did you do that yourself?

I think the Super Sport Plus would be to slow but the 5.5 would also be to fast. I would say go with the 6.5 or 7.5. I've ran a 7.5 in my B4 before and it was insanely fast (no problem doing wheelys). I was scared to go full throttle for long seeing that I was running it on a narrow bumpy street with cars on one side and a side walk and houses and what not on the other.

[HPI_freak]

i washed, masked, cut, and stickered the body. but my friend ( Revomaster ) and I painted it. well actually he did most of it. all i painted was the blue ducts on the sides of the windows