Grenaded my velociti 5.5r, need replacement...

[MikeBusch2]

My XXX-T constantly thermalled, and finally, the rotor blew up. What's the likelihood that the motor is damaged from the magnet shrapnel? Why did this thing overheat all the time? I ran a 12t pinion. I've heard people using the 5.5 in the xxx-4, I'd think half the drive wheels would have less of a load on the motor. Also, what brushless sensored motors are compatible with the GTB other than the velociti and SS line? I believe I read in a magazine somewhere of some other brand making GTB compatible brushless motors. Would going to a higher turn motor (6.5, 7.5) alleviate the thermalling problem? My tranny is silky smooth, and I keep my bearings clean and lubed, so there was no binding in the drive line. Thanks in advance guys.

-Mike

[SpEEdyBL]

My guess is that there was something wrong with the motor from the start. I've never heard of a novak rotor exploding like that. You can run a reedy neo motor, but I've heard bad things about them.

[ElectricThunder]

What was your spur gear? Maybe it's possible you could have undergeared it. :confused:

[MikeBusch2]

I now run an 86t kevlar spur gear. The regular plastic one didn't last very long. I've run this thing for a couple months, and it's always been quirky, with strange glitching, and then the overheating.

[ElectricThunder]

Weird. Maybe email novak and see if they'll replace it for you for free if it was defective?

Just a heads up; 12/86 with the XXXT is a 17.415:1 FDR (I think the transmission ratio is 2.43 for the XXXT). Novak reccomends a 14-15 tooth pinion (around a 13.xx:1 ratio). Maybe that could have contributed to heat issues.

[CharlieS]

If a motor overheats (I'm more speaking of Novak Motors on this one) it's trying to tell you something is wrong.

Running it more and having it overheat again is a sign that something is wrong. What exactly is wrong is always hard to tell with out more equipment to test with. Use the temperature of the motor as your gearing guide and NOTHING else.

If the motor stays around 150-160F it should last virtually for ever. The main thing I see problems with is heating of the motor. If you get it very close to the thermal protection, that is almost the same as activating the thermal protection.

The Gearing Recomendations we give are just startring points because you have to give some number. The TEMPERATURE of the motor is a far better indicator of what the right gearing for a motor is.

When a motor gets overheated again and again the magnet gets weaker and weaker. This causes excessive current draw. This will make everything simply get hotter sooner each time it's run.

With in reason, we have not encountered to many "under gearing" problems. I think most of that is because we encountered lots of "over Gear" problems. I would see excessive RPM causing some problems, but the motor has to be very hot for this to effect it "exploding".

I've had a lot of customers "free rev" motors at the end of a run. This will "pop" the rotor almost always.

If you want a Bullet Proof Jacket for your motor, install the new Sintered Rotor.

Thanks
Charlie

[MikeBusch2]

Thanks for the help guys. I intend to get the new sintered rotor regardless. How much of an effect do tires play in these things? I'm currently running dirt hawgs, which have a slightly large diameter than stock tires. I will soon be running speed hawgs, which are smaller than stock. Other than that, what can I do about the overheating issues?

[bigair78]

So if I have thermaled my 5.5r a few times then I might need a new rotor? Or will that help. Also, is the sinister rotor avaliable for the 5.5r yet?


If a motor overheats (I'm more speaking of Novak Motors on this one) it's trying to tell you something is wrong.

Running it more and having it overheat again is a sign that something is wrong. What exactly is wrong is always hard to tell with out more equipment to test with. Use the temperature of the motor as your gearing guide and NOTHING else.

If the motor stays around 150-160F it should last virtually for ever. The main thing I see problems with is heating of the motor. If you get it very close to the thermal protection, that is almost the same as activating the thermal protection.

The Gearing Recomendations we give are just startring points because you have to give some number. The TEMPERATURE of the motor is a far better indicator of what the right gearing for a motor is.

When a motor gets overheated again and again the magnet gets weaker and weaker. This causes excessive current draw. This will make everything simply get hotter sooner each time it's run.

With in reason, we have not encountered to many "under gearing" problems. I think most of that is because we encountered lots of "over Gear" problems. I would see excessive RPM causing some problems, but the motor has to be very hot for this to effect it "exploding".

I've had a lot of customers "free rev" motors at the end of a run. This will "pop" the rotor almost always.

If you want a Bullet Proof Jacket for your motor, install the new Sintered Rotor.

Thanks
Charlie

[TunaCan Charlie]

Web sites report arrival of the new "Sintered" Rotor by late August. Tower does not have them yet.

[schenck77]

tower had some but ran out. I got two from them last week.

[MikeBusch2]

I found them on tower a couple of hours ago, but it said there was a limited quantity.

[TunaCan Charlie]

tower had some but ran out. I got two from them last week.

You have a spare? Friend? :p

[MikeBusch2]

The GTB does work really well as a brushed ESC, I have no glitching whatsoever. This, of course, leads me to believe there really was something wrong with my original 5.5r, as that thing would glitch left and right.