View Full Version : GTB flat?
Is it normal for the novak Gtb brushless systems to feel a little less torque ish than a brushed motor. I am runnig a 6.5 motor in my Losi MF1 and I switched motors to a 19t and it has alot more torque than my brushless. Has anyone else noticed this?
glassdoctor
01-29-2007, 01:52 PM
If could be a simple as the gearing beign too tall on the 6.5 or the speedo settings. I actually like to take away some punch to get that nice smooth feel, for racing in the dirt.
Brushless have plenty of power and torque but a 19T probably feels more punchy relative to the overall speed and power it has. But a 6.5 will blow away a 19T if geared right.
Mangokiwi
01-29-2007, 02:00 PM
Maybe you should re-adjust your diff and slipper.
I have it geared right, and the diff and slipper are fine. Could it just be the way the GTB is made?
evst 360
01-29-2007, 02:52 PM
I think (I may be wrong) the 19t is punchier because brushed motors have 100% torque at zero rpms, whereas brushless motors have little torque at zero rpm's. That is why they can cog sometimes when starting from zero rpm's. :cool:
TheSteve
01-29-2007, 03:50 PM
I think (I may be wrong) the 19t is punchier because brushed motors have 100% torque at zero rpms, whereas brushless motors have little torque at zero rpm's. That is why they can cog sometimes when starting from zero rpm's. :cool:
Yep, you're wrong :)
A brushless motor has full torque from a dead stop, the cogging(if any) is simply related to the controller.
There could be several things going on. The DC controller you're using may have a high start power, the Novak has a very soft power curve. The Novak motor may have been overheated and the magnet may be weakened. Your batteries may not be able to supply the current the 6.5 wants from a dead stop, its going want double what the 19 turn wants easy if you punch it from a dead stop. As mentioned before gearing is also very important. A brushless motor can be geared much more aggressively if you have the batteries to support it.
try using a new batteries. i used to use my gtb with a very old ugly nicd pack and my truck felt very underpowered. then i switched to intellect cell 4200, and the truck exploded of power!!!
BoysToys
01-29-2007, 04:58 PM
try using a new batteries. i used to use my gtb with a very old ugly nicd pack and my truck felt very underpowered. then i switched to intellect cell 4200, and the truck exploded of power!!!
Brushless motors are able to deliver full torque from a dead stop if your batteries are able to handle the amp draw. When these systems pull major amps in the 150amp range the voltage provided by your NIMH cells will drop dramatically. I have done a battery comparison using both a Novak 5.5 and a Mamba 5700. Then switch from a Venom 3000 to a GP3300 to an IB4200 are all noticeable. Especially when moving from the GP to the IB. I noticed just as big of a difference from the IB to a lipo. The lipo is able to provide a higer voltage under load than the cheap nimh cells.
IMO-The IB4200wc are the best NIMH cells available right now for running with high power brushless system. With that being said I have an IB pack that has not been run in almost 2 weeks, since my lipo arrived at my door.
If you can afford it I would reccomend a quality lipo or Lion pack to get the most out of your brushless system.
You spent some big dollars on the system don't skimp out on the batteries to power it.
I have been using a thunder power 8000. I am running a 16/86 for gearing. I recently replace the rotor and it has not thermalled yet. Should I try Novaks new rotor that came out? The truck that had the 19t in it is MF1, and I was running team scream 3800's in it. It just seams like it has a lot more rip than my bl does on the track.
ElectricThunder
01-29-2007, 07:39 PM
Try gearing up a tooth or two and see if that "wakes it up" (it's all well and good to stay within manufacturer's specs, but it all boils down to finding the "sweet spot", which takes some experimentation). The sintered rotor should give it a nice kick in the pants if that fails. The down side...the rotor costs 30 bucks! :eek:
BoysToys
01-29-2007, 08:34 PM
I used the nickle plated stintered rotor in my 5.5 and only noticed a slight improvement in performance. I was running 14/86 with my 5.5. I tightened the diff all the way down. I tightened the slipper all the way down and then backed it off about 1/4-1/2 of a turn. I ran it that way for about 3 months and the only damage I did was to wear down a rear set of Masher 2ks and strip and idler gear.
Could the cap be damaged?
ElectricThunder
01-30-2007, 06:09 PM
Could the cap be damaged?
The transcap module tends to be the first thing to go bad in the GTBs to prevent the rest of the ESC from dying. So yeah; does it look fried, smell burnt, get hot, or function abnormally?
No it doesn't smell burnt, but lately when ever I accelerate up a jump or get on the throttle hard it shutters and sometimes my spektrum shuts off. I know the spektrum is not the problem because I ran all summer with it and had no problems.
Thanks,
David
CharlieS
01-30-2007, 07:52 PM
Your rotor might need to be replaced. WHen the rotors go off, they draw more current, have less punch.
THis can also cause the main battery to dip below what your spektrum works with. Many spektrum setups seem to have these low voltage issues under heavy loads. Your Rotor loosing some edge likely has caused it to draw a bit extra current.
You can always email us directly
Tech@teamnovak.com
ElectricThunder
01-30-2007, 08:47 PM
Your rotor might need to be replaced. WHen the rotors go off, they draw more current, have less punch.
THis can also cause the main battery to dip below what your spektrum works with. Many spektrum setups seem to have these low voltage issues under heavy loads. Your Rotor loosing some edge likely has caused it to draw a bit extra current.
You can always email us directly
Tech@teamnovak.com
Charlie's a good guy to deal with. He'll get you rollin' again cola.:D
Should the cap on the GTB read 10v with a volt meter? On the label it says it 10v's but its no were near that when I hook up a meter to it.
you should read the same voltage that you have on your batery. if not, you must check the wire from the gtb to the cap
CharlieS
01-31-2007, 07:21 PM
The cap runs in parallel with the pack, so yes, the voltage's should match. It's like connecting wires to the pack and reading the voltage from them.