Gee Bee Model "Y" Senior Sportster

[PipesCS]

Having received such a large amount of input on the first Gee Bee project from the forum I thought I would jump in a little sooner on this new project.

For those of you following the Model D, I am not giving up on it. The last test flight went well and I have new wheel pant covers coming which will need to be painted and installed. With the test flights complete all I need is to get a few flight photos for the record and it will be finished.

Not wanting to be with out a project going I took some of the input I received on the forum and started looking at was to convert the Model D into a Model E which had a five cylinder radial.

I actually started a set of drawings for the new nose but could not get my heart into it.

The solution has been to start completely from scratch with a slightly larger version of the Model “Y” Senior Sportster.

While working on the forum I saw an input from a member that was going to build a half sized model from Mr. Haffke’s qtr scale plans on the model Y as a glow model which would have a 45 inch span. When I looked at the plans I realized it would produce a model in the 5 to 6 pound range which is a little heavy for an electric.


My motivation was once again Mr. Henry Haffke’s book on the Granville brothers.
While I tried not to plagiarize Mr. Haffke’s work, I definitely was influenced by it and give him the credit as his writings and drawings have been a driving factor on this new project.

This time I am starting the forum a little sooner and would hope to get input from interested modelers.

[PipesCS]

The first part of the project was to was to come up with a scale. The Model D had a 431/2” span which gave it no particular scale. This came about as I used the same wing as the PT-19 with different tips and ailerons.

The wing has been the driving factor on the Y also. I scaled the Model D wing up 4 percent which gives is a 45 inch span and a wing area of some were in the neighborhood of 312 sq in. I also moved the servos out into the wing.

The wheel pants while they have a different outline, are built up just as on the Model D. Looking at Mr. Haffke’s plans and a few photos you can see that the wheels are under the leading edge. This should solve a lot of the ground looping problems I had on the first try at the Model D gear.

I spent the last two weeks working in Maryland and this is a JPG of the work to date.

I am trying to clean up my working habbits and complete the drawing prior to having John at Top Notch cut the prototype short kit. With that in mind I hope to cut the first kit near the end of the month.

[PipesCS]

One of the reasons I did not tackle the radial engine versions of the Gee Bees was the engine. I did not want to have to build one up.

I had been looking at the Williams Brothers Cylinders but found the cost a little high as well as heavy.

I got an input from E-Challenged where he mentioned a vacuform radial from Dare Design and Engineering. www.darehobby.com

It turned out to be the right size and weight. I believe I paid 13.00 for it.

It comes as a complete engine with the front, back and intake manifolds. More than I need but nice.

[PipesCS]

Started working on the assembly of the Dare Radial. As I was sanding it out of the sheet it became apparent that my original thinking was not going to work.

I had planned to attach the motor to the firewall and glue the cowl ring to the cylinders. Turns out the Dare vacuformed motor was not meant to be a structural member.

This has caused a design change in that I had to sketch up a box assembly that mounts to the firewall around the motor and at the other end supports the ring.

The cowl ring will be supported by a 1/16” ring that will be centered between the front and back of the dare motor halves. I am doing a tracing of the motor so that the ring will have the same cutouts between the cylinders. This ring will be attached to the above mentioned box and be glued to the inside of the balsa ring.

This should stiffen up the cowl area enough to take my average landings that are not always perfect.

[Gerryy]

Looks good Pipes~ Henry Haffke does indeed inspire! You can see elsewhere on the forum his and my new project, the Howard Ike! Being on vacation now, I won't get back to it for a couple of weeks but the goal is to fly this 1/3-scale model at the upcoming Rhinebeck Jamboree. We'll see if this happens! Good luck with your twin Gee Bee projects
GY

[PipesCS]

This is another shot of the first Model Y

[PipesCS]

As the original plan fell thru on mounting the cowl directly to the vacuformed engine I came up with the idea to mount a plywood disk forward of the firewall. I will be supported by a plywood box structure that screws to the firewall and directs air around the motor and into the battery area.

I cut out the motor and scanned the backside of it. To get a true scale I laid a ruler on the scanner to give me a size reference. Then it was a simple matter to upload the photo, set the scale and then trace around it.

I will now glue the plastic engine halves to the front and back of the plywood which also supports the cowl ring. The box is also glued to a smaller ring that is the mount to screw into the firewall.

The plan is to be able to remove the entire cowl/engine assembly with three screws.

Looking at the drawing of the plywood disc I suddenly realize I can cut away alot of wood inside each cylinder outline to cut the weight.

[PipesCS]

I am once again happy with Callie-Graphics

I sent Callie the drawings and photos that are posted above on Monday and she shipped two decal sheets to me this afternoon.

This is the JPEG proofsheet she sent. Total cost with shipping and handling was $18.00 for the first sheet and I called back for a second copy which was $9.00 more.

For a size reference the large N number is 3 inches tall and 14 long

The vinyl she works with is .002 thick. It comes with a backing sheet and a base sheet that you peel off to stick the decal down and then pull the backing sheet to uncover the decal.

[PipesCS]

As the glue is drying on the Model D wheel pants I thought I would take time to talk about the drawing process for preparing your parts for John Valentine to cut at Top Notch Products.

This is a jpeg of the landing gear block mount on rib R-1.

The first thing you will notice is the color green is used for the rib outline. The lazer software uses line color to control the lazer power and cutting speed. In this instance green is for the 1/16" balsa. The lettering has to be done in "simpletext" (Txt) stick characters only and are done in Magenta as this tells the lazer to only mark the wood on its surface and not cut thru.

The breaks in the lines are part retainer breaks and they keep the part attached to the sheet during the cutting process. they are .02 for cross grain breaks and between .03 and .06 with the grain.

One thing the photo does not show is the offset required for the laser kerf.

In areas where two parts are going to be slotted and tabbed such as where bulkheads tab into fuselage sides you will need to off set the line half the width of the laser. In Top Notch's case it is .004 inch toward the inside of a slot and to the outside of the part that fits into it. This .008 in sounds insignificant but really makes difference when you are assembling the parts.

[PipesCS]

Well the Vinyl graphics I ordered Monday came in today

They do not show up well in this photo as they come with a protective paper sheet over the top of the decal that you remove after applying it.

[PipesCS]

When I started this project I had planned to use the Williams Brothers Cylinders for the engine. Due to the cost I switched to the vacuformed version by Dare Design.

While traveling this week in Maryland I stopped into a local hobby shop to find three Williams Brothers kits on the shelf marked at 40.00 each. One was the Pratt and Whitney "Wasp" that I needed for the Gee Bee, a Lerone Rotory I need for a VK Nieuport and a Wright J5 Whirlwind.

Thinking 40.00 was still to high I was headed to the door when the shop owner offered me all three for 60.00 even if I paid cash. Needless to say I will have to carry them home on the plane as my suit case is too full already.

At 20.00 each I had to bite.

This makes me realize I will need to place another part in the short kit so that the modeler can use either set of cylinders

The plywood support ring and cowl ring will be a different diameter.

[PipesCS]

The short kit should be on order this afternoon. I am hoping Top Notch can have the kit cut and at my house by the time I get off this trip.

This is an example of a cut order and how it looks on the computer.

[PipesCS]

Ordered the short kit from John last night. I may not see it for a while as he is on vacation.

[PipesCS]

I am not sure how well this photo will show up as it is a conversion from AutoCAD to PDF and then to JPEG

It is a small drawing I am working up to place within the plans along with the full cowled version with its markings

[PipesCS]

Made it home today.

I am realizing that not everyone likes the Model Y with the Townsend Ring cowl.

I found some photos and drawings showing the second Model Y which had a NACA cowl and a tail wheel.

I checked with Fiberglass Specialties and they offer a cowl with blisters in the right size so I am adding it to the drawing.

Here is the original

Both Model Y aircraft were painted red on white with red markings.

[PipesCS]

This is the top down drawing for the first Model Y.

I am planing on placing these two drawings on the plans to show markings.

I will do them in a smaller scale.

[PipesCS]

The shortkit ordered from John Valentine of Top Notch Product arrived today.

No damage noted and arrived right on time. I recieved a note from him on Monday that he had cut the kit and it was on its way. Arrived UPS this afternoon. Not Bad service as I only ordered the corrections on Friday.

One other thing about the way we do buisiness, If any thing is wrong it is my fault as he only cuts what I draw and order. He has yet to mess up an order. Can't say enough good about the service.

Here is the kit laying on a table. The patterns at the end of the table are to lay up the laminations for the tail and wingtips. I know this is a dated method these days but it still extremly strong. I have yet to break a tail or wingtip. This is a method I learned from the older VK kits offered by Proctor Enterprises.

[PipesCS]

This model will be breaking a lot of new ground for me. The cowl ring is one of the areas that took a lot of thought on how to lay it up and then attach.

In the short kit I have placed the parts to build what appears to be a good start on a paddle wheel for a model boat.

It is actually a mold to lay up laminations of 1/64 plywood and 1/32 balsa in order to build up a ring.

I have a short bolt holding the pieces together but will use a long one so that it can be chucked up in a lathe or drill press to do the final sanding to shape. Then the sides can be knocked out to release the ring. Of course I will be putting scotch tape around the edges to keep the laminations from sticking.

I have to quit at this point as the landing gear for the Model D have to be painted this week end to get closure on that prodject. After the flight photos of the Model D are done I will be free to work on the Model Y.

[PipesCS]

Well I know I said I would be working on the wheel pants for the Model D today, but as I cannot run the compressor in the basement with the kids still asleep I started sticking parts together

This is my first attempt at using lite-ply and building a more complicated aircraft. The fuselage is built around a square box with formers and stringers.

I started by dry fitting the box and have found four mistakes in the first 20 minutes. I have some of the tabs and slots wrong which is causing me to spend time at the computer. On this project I have made the decision to fix each mistake on the drawing as I find it. Needless to say this will slow down the prototype.

Here is the fuselage box along with the firewall back. The anchor nuts are for the motor mount and colwl attachment.

[PipesCS]

As I still can't run the compressor I am still tinkering.

Here is the cowl parts that will support the cowl ring and vacuformed motor.

Access to the mounting screws is between the cylinders using a allen driver.

I am looking into what kind of glue you would use to mount the styrene motor to the plywood with.

[PipesCS]

Well the fuselage got off to a running start today. I was able to put a couple of hours into it and found the usual mistakes.

I am working from the front to the back and managed to get the primary box structure togeher and the first five frames inplace to start running stringers.

I also layed it next to the Model D (Minus its wheels and pants which are in the paint shop) and am concerned at the increase in size. It may take a larger motor than I have for it. I am also probably not going to come in under weight.

[PipesCS]

I started the cowl this morning by first puttig scotch tape on the edges of the former to ensure the part would not stick to it.

I decided to do the first layer out of 1/64" plywood to give it a little strength at the leading and trailing edge.

I am now laying up the layers using 1/32" Balsa.

Decided at the last minute to use carpenters glue to build it up.

I am not trying to make a perfect fit with butt joints but simply lapped the first layer and am starting each new piece butted against the lapped edge.

[PipesCS]

The other side project going on this morning is the laminating of the Tail and wing tips.

I know this is extremely dated but boy are they strong and if you ground loop or nose over like I do there is no beating them.

They are layed up with 1/16" balsa and carpenters glue

[Gerryy]

Laser cutting and CAD design were made for each other! Great work!
GY

[PipesCS]

Gerry I have not forgotten you on the Model D

I am in the process of repainting the new wheel pants and still need to get your 3 air photos.

How is the racer going with Mr. Haffke?

[Gerryy]

not to worry! send in the material once you have the flight shots we spoke about. As for the Howard Ike project, just check the forum in the Inside MAN section, I just added some pix of the covering and graphics from CalliGraphics! Looks great!
GY

[PipesCS]

Boy you can get spoiled dealing with Callie

[PipesCS]

I decided to mount the servos and pushrods as I was not sure how they would route the best.

I am using HS-81 Hitec for the rudder and elevator

[PipesCS]

With the servos and pushrods in I have spent the moring installing the bulkheads and started the stringers.

the stringers are being held up now as I have to install the horiz and vert stabs first.

One thing to watch is to not put a stringer over the push rod outlets.

[PipesCS]

I have tried to explain this method of mounting the ring over the phone to a few modelers and found I can not do it.

Here are some photos to explain the method of mounting it all up to the fire wall around the motor. (Not installed yet)

I am going to use Goop brand glue to mount the styrene motor to the plywood disk. I have the front and back of teh engine to glue to the front and back sides of the disk.

The ring is not built up enough yet as I still have a few layers to laminate up prior to sanding it to shape.

The nose bowl is going to be one more layer thick and then sanded to shape prior to mounting on the front of the motor.

It will be sad if I go in nose first after all this work.


I need to weigh the fusesage soon to see where this is going.

As we all know:

There are three kinds of model airplanes. Those that have crashed, those that will and the ones that hang from the ceiling and are never flown.

[PipesCS]

The original thought when I started this project was to enlarge the Model D to the span of the Model Y in 1/8 scale.

This on the computer screen did not look too drastic and I planned on using the same motor and battery sizes for power.

I may have to re think this. I have now glued up the fuselage and set it next to the Gee Bee Model D fuselage.

I believe I will start looking into changing to the next size up in motor and battery.

On the other hand I am starting to like the Model Y more than the D

[tandemairbike]

Absolutely cool stuff your doing, Charlie.

I cant wait for you to start thr R-1

Tandy:p:D

[PipesCS]

Here is one place laser cutting pays off. It would have taken me an afternoon to prepare all the ribs for this wing.

As it is, I was able to glue up the majority of the wing in about 2 hours. This was not a dedicated task as it is also my day to help out around the house, get a haircut, pick up the car at the shop, etc....

If you look close at a couple of the photos you will see I am working over an early draft of the plans that showed the aileron servo in the center section of the plans. This was changed early on to having two small servos out in the wings.

The photo of the started Y wing is next to a almost completed wing for the Gee Bee II that is still coming along. It is slightly larger.

As much as I hate to build wings, it is going well.

[PipesCS]

The patterns are on the plans and the parts included in the short kit to mount the ailerons flush into the bottom of the wing. I decided to do this after have too much trouble with linkage clearance on the Model D in the wing mount area.


To ease the pushing the wires thru to the servos from the center section I took the advise of Bob Somers and used the plastic from the back of Monocote covering to make the tube. It is light and the wires slip thru better than a paper tube.

[PipesCS]

The landing gear blocks are once again built up from 1/8 in AC Ply.

I did simplify the glue up process by making the two lower pieces into one so that made the alignment easier.

I also widened them out the entire length to give you more room to mount the straps and screws.

I have been asked why I carried them out one more rib than was needed.

I only did this for strength as there is not much glue area and it carries the landing stress further out into the wing.

Looking at these photos I realize I have forgotten the shear webbing. That will be next.

[PipesCS]

One thing about scratch builders .

We all seem to have a need to stop and put is all together to plan the next move.

[tandemairbike]

It seems to me you forgot the shear webs on the first "D" and had to go back and do it. Are you a chronic shear web forgeter? or were they just "senior moments" like I always have?LOL.

It's all looking good. Keep up the great work.

Tandy:D

[PipesCS]

I was recently going thru a checkout line at a cafetiria and the girl with out asking, gave me a senior discount on my lunch.

Being only 53 I asked her if I looked old enough to rate the 55 year old discount.

With a quick look up her response was OH YEAH!!!!! Boy that hurt.

Shear webs tomorrow along with installing the tip bows that are drying

[PipesCS]

Had to make a trip to Ft Hood with my work

Here is how the shear webbing looks on the Model D and PT 19. I cut the webs to go between the two spars making a true I beam. I use a small table saw to cut the webs so they are a good tight press fit.

Bob Sommers taught me to do it this way and is now thinking he wants to actually notch the faces of the spars to accept the webbing prior to gluing the top spar down


Not sure I want to go there.

[tandemairbike]

Life gets tough for us old guys, Charlie, and it gets worse the older we get.

When that sort of episode first started happening to me I got a little upset but now I just ignore it.

Tandy

[PipesCS]

Actually the alternative to growing old is not all that great...

[Clipwing]

Young Mister Charles, the model Y is growing more excellent all the time. noted back ashort ways that you said you liked the Y a bit more than the d now that you were progressing on it---all I can say is round engines can affect you that way!!! (my fav. was the model E!!)
Looking great Charlie keep at it !!!
Cheers

[PipesCS]

The wing shear webs are installed and the wing is pretty well finished exept the final sanding and and covering.

In the process of mounting it to the fuselage it has become apparent the wing fillets were not going to work. Decided to cut and fit till it worked and go back to correct the plans.

This required setting the wing into the fuselage deeper and cutting away frame number 5 along with the stringers going aft.

[PipesCS]

Next step will be to plank the fuselage sides to give the fillet something to glue to.

I have never built a kit with a fillet so I am out on a ledge feeling my way along on this.

[PipesCS]

Every once in a while I take and pin everything together to see how it is looking.

Every modeler should have a overstuffed chair in the shop to just sit back in and look at the progress.

I am pretty happy at this point as I started out to do a stand off scale with strip ailerons.

I am hopeing it flies as well as the Model D

With the heat and my travel not much flying is going on.

I flew in from Maryland last night and tomorrow head west to Ft Huachuca in AZ Work is the pits.

Today I was able to plank one side of the fuselage and the photos were taken sitting on the original Model D landing gear.

[tandemairbike]

Charlie;
You just have to install a sound system so you can enjoy the throb of that big radial.

Great work. Keep it up.

Tandy:)

[PipesCS]

Thought it was time to get it up on its own wheels and pants. These show the work just prior to soldering up the joint. I am still sanding the pants to the final shape.

Also started work on the fillets. I am using a light filler
although I wanted to use balsa. Looking at the photos of the model Y fillets I realized that they don't look like the ones on a Spitfire or P-40

[PipesCS]

Took a little time off from painting the house today to mount the E Flite 480.

I am still not sure if this is the motor I will end up using as the E Flite .10 is the same diameter and mounting system, only having a slightly longer case. It would pull higher Amps and require a different battery. All adding weight.

I will probably fly the first tests with the 480.

The motor mounted as planned (Drawn on the Plans) and the cowl fit nicely over it.

I will have to open up the holes on the front of the engine to allow cooling air. The nose bowl is cut from balsa and is in the short kit. I am still working out how to best mount it.

[PipesCS]

Last night I came to the realization that the train is almost to the station as far as getting it built.

I worked a little on the fillets and managed to get the wheel pants sanded and the first coat of Dope on them. I will be putting a layer of .5 oz glass on them using nitrate dope and sanding sealer to smooth them up

Managed to weigh the model with everything in it, Still need to add the right side wing fillet and cover the model. Right now it is weighing 34 oz. With luck I can keep it under 40 oz.

[Clipwing]

Look-in GOOD Charlie !-Excellent !!!
Cheers

[PipesCS]

Managed to cover the wing today but also took out all the work I had done on the wing fillets.

I could not make myself happy with the light filler.

Tomorrow I am going to start with a balsa fillet.

I also need to start closing out the work on the tail section. I need to add filler pieces between some of the stringers to give the covering something to land on around the rudder.

[PipesCS]

After looking at photos till I am blue in the face, I am jumping in again on the fillets. The fillets on the model Y covered to large brace tubes that were part of the wing attachment points. It is a trait on all their early work. They do not have the classic P-40 or Spitfire sweep to them.

I managed to get the base made of 1/64 ply and started the actual fillet out of 1/16in balsa. Looks like a lot of filler may come into play here

[PipesCS]

The fillet is going better than planned.

Now I understand why no one details this on their drawings. The pieces are more complicated than I origially thought. It is amazing how easy something looks in the books and turns out to be a bear.


Now all I have to do is make the front look good and then make the other side match.

I have decided to try a new Spread Spectrum reciever/Transmitter module that I purchased for my 8U Futaba on this model. Has anyone had anyexperiance with this unit yet?

[PipesCS]

My work and a church project have gotten in the way of my modeling and I am making an attempt to jump back in.

Today I am cleaning shop and trying to get myself motivated to work on the Model Y.

I must admit some of the distraction has been finishing up the flight testing on the Model D Gee Bee. It has worked out better than I had hoped and Has over 20 flights on it now.

Today I started out putting the rear portion of the plastic cylinders on the ply cowl ring. They are adding a lot of stiffness to the piece

the plan is to paint them with plastic model paints. The Joys of electrics is not having to use fuel proof paint.

[CalmAir]

It is looking really good PipesCS.

Some fillets can really be tricky especially when you are trying to make both sides look the same. Once they are in place they sure will make-the-model.

I am with you in the fact that I do not miss fuel proof dope and the cleanup after flying. Electrics will spoil you fast as far as ease of going to the field, flying, putting it right back in the car and heading home.

Keep the progress pics coming.

Dale

[PipesCS]

I am having to work up to getting back on the fillets. They really are the last hurdle as all I will have left at that point is to cover and paint it. That task is not too bad as I have pretty well followed the path I did on the Model D as to covering and paint. It is heavier than the lite coats but looks much better. After all the testing on the Model D the paint has proven tough and touch up is easy.

With the early gear on the Model D I would have had to recover the tips alot with all the ground looping I did.

The ring is now glued to the engine and I have shaped the nose bowl. The nose bowl parts are in the short kit but I had to add a spacer ring to the inside so that it would clear the electric motor. I will be adding these to the short kit.

I need to start painting the plastic engine and plan on putting a .5 oz glass cloth on the ring and nose bowl using nitrate dope and sanding sealer. Final paint will be Sherwin Williams latex house paint.

Bowl will be red and ring is white.

[Mephisto]

Is it possible to get these plans. i am looking in www since some weeks to get a drawning, or 3 sight view, but nothing. I want to increase the plan for my OS FT300 engine and love the Gee Bee sportster Y
There are no commercial ideas, only for me.
Have a nice advent time(in Austria the time waiting to Christmas)
Loveley greetings from Austria

Roman

[Clipwing]

Mephisto,
perhaps this will help you in your search: 3view of GB-Y from Henry Haffke's book; Gee Bee;the real story of the Granvlle Brothers/
Happy Holidays !

[PipesCS]

I find it interesting that you would want to scale up drawings from mine after most of my work envolved scalling down from other quarter scale models.

The plans you want to buy are available at the AMA web site

http://www.modelaircraft.org/plans/pdfs/g-plans.pdf

for a cost of 44.00 american dollars plus shipping

[PipesCS]

You will need to scroll down a few pages to find the Gee Bee.

[Mephisto]

@PipesCS
Thank you for the ama link that´s i am looking for some weeks.

Roman

[PipesCS]

Mephisto

Where are you located in Austria?

[PipesCS]

I am back trying to work on the fuselage to get it ready to cover. Wife left on her job making me a single parent for 2 weeks which shut down the model shop.

[Mephisto]

@PipesCS
Location is about 40 kilometres from Linz(Upper Austria) near Gmunden a town at the Lake "Traunsee
Position: 48 00 56.096 N
-13 49 28.156 E
Roman

[Mephisto]

@PipesCS
A question, I hope this is the last question to you. The link you wrote http://www.modelaircraft.org/plans/pdfs/g-plans.pdf
I tried 2 times a mail to the "AMA" to get the cost of shipping. No answer of my mails, I know you are not responsible for Ama, but have this group troubles with foreign visitors. Therefore it is a far way from Austria to communicate with this kind of peoples, especially if they don´t answer. I hope there is a idea to get information within USA, with this group.
We above mentioned, not your problem, but perhaps you can help me. You are the only contact.
I only want to know the shipping costs, but if I have now answer, it is difficult for me to fax an order with mastercredit card# and did not get any informations.
Perhaps I order an the plan would never me arrive,because they are not interested.
Roman

[PipesCS]

Mephisto.

Send me an E mail to charliepipes@bellsouth.net

I have some plans to send you that may help.

[PipesCS]

Try this link for the AMA

If no luck I will see what I can do on Monday to contact them by phone for you.

[Mephisto]

@pipescs
which link for the ama you left it blank
Roman

[PipesCS]

My mail seems to be down. did you get the Model D drawings I sent.

[PipesCS]

Started covering the fuselage and tail surfaces. Photos to come.

[PipesCS]

Managed to get a little covering done.

Life and work have continued to be in the way. Trying to make myself work on it a little each evening.

The fillet is still an issue I have not totally found acceptible. It is my first attempt at one and the Gee Bee does not have the classic P-40 style.

I have started the final review of the drawings and parts layout to order a second prototype.

[PipesCS]

Still struggling.

This week end is travel basketball with the son and getting the Cub Scout Pine Wood Derby cars ready for next week.

Managed to get a few more pieces of covering on.

I am also when I can working on the drawings to clean them up.

[tandemairbike]

Fine looking bird, Charlie.
Hat's off to ya.

Tandy:)

[PipesCS]

Getting a little more time in the shop

Son won the Pinewood Derby so now we go to district.

His team won the regionals for fifth graders and are playing for the state top four this weekend

On the modeling front as usual I am unsatisfied with my work.

I need to find a person to build with who can cover a model and not make it look like a blind man with a chain saw did it.

I am closing in on the painting stage.

This also shows the battery compartment with a 2000ma 15C battery by Common Sense RC.

[PipesCS]

Have a little catching up to do here.

Decided that I had dawdled too long on this project so I threw it together for the test hop. I decided to fly it all white prior to putting all the work into the final paint scheme.

I used the .10 eflite motor and a 2000 ma 15C battery with the motor set to pull 30 amps static at full power swinging a 11x7 APC prop.

First Hop went really wrong with a tight snap to the left on take off. At first I though I had put the power to it too soon and the torque and P factor had caused it to snap. Well in the post mortem it turned out to be a simple fact that having at the last minute switched to a spread spectrum radio I had reversed the ailerons.

After pulling the .10 out with a bent shaft and putting the cowl ring back on I put the original 480 EFlite back in. and set it up for 24 amps max which is what the motor will take. The next flight went well even though I had the elevator throws to high. Managed to settle down enough to make a few high speed passes. Trouble was that it did not have enough power with the 480. While it was fast it did not have a lot of verticle performance. If you pulled it into a tight turn you could tell it had fallen off the speed curve and had to put the nose down to get the speed up. It definitly flies like a warbird. With its higher wing loading it is definitly not light and fluffy.

Landing was uneventfull and in fact really nice. Long and flat without a bounce. Also kept it straight on the asphalt without a ground loop. If you fly short coupled models you will understant said statement.

Next flight was a downer. I put in a 2000ma 10C pack and definitly was in trouble from the word go. Tried to climb but ended up cartwheeling in the grass next to the field.

Damage was nill to the fuselage but I could tell the balsa spar was snapped inside the fabric.

Having to pull the fabric made me decide to completely recover the model in ultracoat to see if I could actually do a multi colored paint scheme.

The photo of the cowl and red nose bowl was after I repaired it. The first flight with the reversed ailerons was tough on it.

That is where I am at today. I have almost finished the fuselage and have made the repairs to the wing by completly replacing the top right spar.

Tonight I put the decals on the fuselage. They are from Callie's Graphics and I cannot say enough about her work.

[tandemairbike]

This hobby can be called anything but boring, can't it Charlie?

Tandy

[PipesCS]

Managed to finish covering the fuselage. Need to get on the wing and landing gear.

[tandemairbike]

COOL!!!!!!!!!!!

Tandy

[PipesCS]

Headed off on a road trip for a week so the little time I get is cut off again.

The covering is coming along better than I hoped. This is my first attempt at at two colored model with ultracoat and I must say I am happy with the results so far.

[Gerryy]

Pipes, the new GeeBee is looking great! Nice work! Love those CallieGraphics markings.

Also, remember if you would ever like to publish your model in MAN. Please let me know! Your photos always look great! Just need high res images!
Cheers,
GY

[PipesCS]

Hi Gery

Thanks for the kind words on the Gee Bee. I have yet to send you an article on the Model D or Y as I am not ready to walk away from the design. I called it quits the other day on the PT-19 after it grew to over 200 parts in the short kit. John may go ahead and add the few strips and sheets it needs to become a full kit and offer it.

I am in the process of redoing the drawings on the Model D adding an inch to the tail and increasing the size of the stab and elevators.

Also am simplifing the design the way I did the PT 19 but also making it a little more scale

Trying to improve its take off and landings with the longer tail

I love the airplane but am not sure it would be for the average flier today.

[tandemairbike]

Plane's looking good Charlie,
Which CAD program do you use and where does one aquire it?

Tandy

[PipesCS]

I use a copy of AutoCAD 2002 that was acquired on EBAY but don't know that I would recommend it.

I believe there are some CAD programs for modelers that are a lot less expensive.

[tandemairbike]

I need a program with extensive tutorial as I've never used CAD and don't know the first thing about using it.

Alot of accompanying software that came with most of my computer hardware assumes that you know and understand a lot of things that I didn't know at the time of installation. I don't need any more of that.

Tandy

[PipesCS]

AutoCAD is in this catagory. I used a book called "AutoCAD-No Experiance Required" to learn the basics and then dove in.

I have had to be on travel last week but managed to get a little done today on the Model Y.

This model continues to take me past what I have done in the past. Covering the one wheel pant took most of my day.

Still quite a bit of work to be done.

I have the other wheel pant to cover, make and mount new ailerons, mount the rudder and elevator. finish the decals and set up the radio again.

In the plans department I am makeing a new kit for the Model D Gee Bee covered in another thread in this forum

[PipesCS]

The end is in site. Well I hope not the real end.

I managed to hang the flight controls and put a few more of Callies Graphics on.

Still have the one wheel pant to cover. Yes they are a !@##@! to cover and I am putting it off

Weight came to three pounds with two 2000ma battery packs in parallel

At 32 amps on the motor thay will be pulling somewere in the neighbor hood of 8C each. The batteries alone weigh in at 12 oz.

[PipesCS]

I have been asked more than once why I have used the female figures in the Model D and Model Y

Both planes were flown by Maude Tait and Mae Haizlip in the 1932 races.

Maude tried to set a world speed record for women in the Model Y but failed. She would get married shortly after that and it is said never flew again. Mae Haizlip (Jimmy Haizlip her husband flew the R-2 along side Jimmy Doolittle in the R-1 during the 1932 National Air Races ) was asked to race the Model D having never flown it before during the same races.

Thought it only fitting to remember them

this is Maude in the Model Y. I have the racing number 54 for behind the cockpit and on the wing but do not know if I will use them. I have photos of the plane with and without it.

[PipesCS]

Took a little artistic license on the windscreen. I liked the look of the one Henry Hafke had on his qtr scale plans better than the one in the photo above of Maude tate.

I made the windscreen out of a piece of plastic packaging from something the wife got in the mail. The framing is Sig qtr inch white trim tape.

Still working on the one wheel pant left.

Started getting the drawing in shape and starting the changes for the cut order to Top Notch for another prototype to proof out the changes. Trying to lighten the beast.

Decided to leave the racing numbers off and put them on the next one to tell them apart

[PipesCS]

:):):) The covering is finished and most of the radio installed. I have to hook the pushrods back up and get all the throws set.

Sitting here looking at it I may never fly it again. With all its wrinkles it is still the prettiest thing Ive ever built.

I have to give most of the credit to Callie of Callie's Graphics. The decals took less than an hour over all to install.

Weight is up to 3 pounds 3 oz.

I am still hammering away at the plans for this one and the model D. Both will be available for free as soon as they are done and I will post them when finished.:wave::wave::wave::wave:

[Clipwing]

Hey Mr P.
am following along on both threads----your Y looks EXCELLENT great job on the covering--and the over all look of the airframe.!!!...
looks like a winner to me !!! & Henry H . would be pleased that you've done your GB up in a quality way!
Cheers
A.L.Lockrow/aka Clipwing

[PipesCS]

While setting up the control throws last night I had put in a new Castle Creations 54 amp speed control only to have it quit after about an hour. The controls work but it will not spin up the motor. Tried another speed control so I know it is not the reciever or the motor.

Plan to go by the Hobby Shop to see if there is any chance to exchange it. Problem is that I bought it last year and this is the first I have used it. May have to purchase another.

Here are the two Gee Bee Prototypes together.

Currently putting the cut order together to order the new improved Model D which will be an inch longer in the tail and a little easer to build making better use of laser cut parts. Also adding stringer and rounding over the bottom of the fuselage to make some friends happy.

[PipesCS]

Well I realize there are no more photos to be posted until I test fly it.

I pulled out the bad speed control but to be honest don't know when I will make the fifty mile treck to the hobby shop.

I have hope my dealer will give me a break and accept it as warrenty as it has not been used yet and there is no evidence of it getting hot.

[PipesCS]

Received the New Speed Control and was concerned with the heat it generates at 35 amps static. It is currently mounted inside the fuselage where air flow is limited.:confused::confused:

Decided tonight to mount it on the back side of the fake radial above the .10 E Flite Outrunner. That way the air flow thru the cylinders will give it plenty of cooling. :D:D I may try to mount it underneath the motor come to think of it as it would be less visable but still run cooler.

I am contemplating cutting in air holes in the bottom of the wing leading air up thru the batterys with the air exiting the cockpit opening. I may put a small scoop on the lower wing surface to help with the air flow.

[PipesCS]

Managed to overcome my fears and took it to the field today.

Managed to fly it three times with another modeler showing up to take the photos of the last flight. Turned out blurry and will need to do it again with a dedicated photographer

Will calm down and check the throws and do a flight report later today.

[Clipwing]

Blurry or not -looks excellent !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Congrats !!!!

[PipesCS]

I believe my photographer was more nervous than I was.

The model weighed 53 1/2 oz with two 2000ma 3s lipo batteries in parallel

On the first flight at my local gravel strip I hit a rock and flipped it on its back. Ended up with a broken 11x7 prop and replaced it with a 10x7. Should have gone home and got the right one but was not going to quit.

Next flight went great. Had to put in a small amount of nose up trim and it flew like it was on rails. I made my landing fast and flat landing on the mains. Second flight better but on landing I hit the only patch of weeds on the whole field and flipped on its back again. As I didnt have anyone to photograph it, I took it to the flying field at Huntsville Al which is 50 miles from the house.

Made another flight there but stalled a little high and it was my worst landing of the day.

Throws were half inch on the rudder and elevator with three eighths on the ailerons.

With the 10x7 it was pulling 19 amps on the right battery and 16 from the left. all the flights were between 6 and 7 min. The batteries used on the short 6 min flight needed a little over 1000ma to recharge.