5800+sintered rotor+Mamba Max=?

[ElectricThunder]

Ok, so I finally got around to ordering a sintered rotor for my original SS5800. The motor was hitting 160-170 (at one point, it was in the low 180s!) after a full run on IB4200WCs, and consindering that the velociti rotor that's in it is about a year and a half to two years old, I decided it was time for a new rotor (terrible brake fade was becoming a problem, as was a lack of acceleration).

Anyways, has anyone run any of the higher turn Novak motors (like the 7.5, 8.5, or 10.5) with a mamba max ESC? I'm curious as to whether or not I can get away with it using the new sintered rotor, or if I need to really wait for that elusive update Castle said they'd have out sooner or later. I'm guessing that if it runs well (minimal cogging), the Novak should really come alive with the Mamba ESC (hopefully?). I'm antsy to run 12 cells on this thing with a sintered rotor....ya know...for fun.:D

[chilledoutuk]

I read somewhere the reason sensored motors were hard to drive was that they did not have sintered rotors plus the airgap.

The sintered rotor should make it easier for sensorless controllers to drive it but i am sure someone has tried a velocity with a sintered rotor on a mamba max.

[ElectricThunder]

Excellent.

I've read that the Orion Vortex motors run just fine on the mamba (they all come with sintered rotors), but I wasn't exactly sure how the Novaks faired (I remember reading they had some trouble on the mamba, but I'm not sure if that was with the sintered; like you said, the sintered rotor should defintiely help).

Hopefully I get the rotor some time this week.

[vaderbxman]

Does the Mamba run the Orion velociti with no problem? Just curious as how a sensorless ESC runs a sensored motor with the sensor loop disconnected.


Sorry, I'm out of the brushless loop! :)

[ElectricThunder]

Does the Mamba run the Orion velociti with no problem? Just curious as how a sensorless ESC runs a sensored motor with the sensor loop disconnected.


Sorry, I'm out of the brushless loop! :)

Orion Velociti....? It's either the Orion Vortex or the Novak Velociti. Anyways, I was asking a member at URC/RC-monster named skellyo, and he said his Vortex ran well on the mamba ESC. I'm trying to find out how the Novak Velociti motors run with a sintered rotor.:)

I just ran my HV4400 btw; it cogged a little bit, but overall, not too bad. My mamba's settings were as follows:

50% brake
50% reverse throttle (cogged a lot when I tried to reverse; forward was fine though)
0% punch control
0% drag brake
Start power: Low
Motor Timing: High
Cutoff Voltage: 5.4v

Throttle and brake curves were just a y=x type of graph (diagonal line), and firmware is v1.09. I think I'll test the HV4400 with start power set to highest, and timing set to highest.

Ah....forgot to mention that my aluminum idler is on its way out, so that could also be a problem with my little test. I need a steel idler! AHHHH!

[SpEEdyBL]

You read my thread. The HV4.5 on the MM would not start on an incline, no matter what. Not only that but running it on the mm was not at all fun. Sometimes the brakes would blip during full throttle and the car would spin out. I haven't tried high timing, but with timing on lowest, the HV4.5 wasn't very fast even with the 11 tooth pinion. I once tried the original ss5800 motor on my MGM Compro 120 esc with 10* timing and it was just a tad slower than with the Super Sport esc, but it also ran better than the MM with the HV4.5, in fact much better. I just get the impression that the sintered rotor doesn't actually reduce cogging, and only makes it worse. I could be wrong though. After all, the capacitors on the MM are not nearly big enough for the big HV4.5 motor, which makes it tougher on the batteries, especially with start power on high. Castle only recommends using high start power for very low powered setups such as crawlers, and now I see why. It took about 10 seconds of very violent cogging and not moving to get the esc to 140 degrees, which to me means do not run. Not that im trying to discourage you from trying this. I do think it is important for more than one person to do the same test, for more reliable results, but in the back of my mind, it seems like something could be getting damaged by going through these tests. After all, a steel stack puts a lot more stress on the magnet than a coreless stator, and sometimes the polarity of the weaker magnets is temporarily reversed as the sensorless controller sends a pulse to find the position of the rotor, which doesn't sound good to me.

[kufman]

I have found that the lower timing settings on the MambaMax controller greatly reduce cogging. In my e-maxx with a 10L, I have no startup problems. My u-force has similiar results. More cogging with higher timing. My settings are the following.


100% brake (can turn it down with the transmitter)
50% reverse throttle
0% punch control
0% drag brake
Start power: Medium
Motor Timing: 1 step lower than default
Cutoff Voltage: 0


The higher timing modes will probably work better for 4 and 6 pole motors, but for 2 pole motors I would try the lower timing settings.

[ElectricThunder]

You read my thread. The HV4.5 on the MM would not start on an incline, no matter what. Not only that but running it on the mm was not at all fun. Sometimes the brakes would blip during full throttle and the car would spin out. I haven't tried high timing, but with timing on lowest, the HV4.5 wasn't very fast even with the 11 tooth pinion. I once tried the original ss5800 motor on my MGM Compro 120 esc with 10* timing and it was just a tad slower than with the Super Sport esc, but it also ran better than the MM with the HV4.5, in fact much better. I just get the impression that the sintered rotor doesn't actually reduce cogging, and only makes it worse. I could be wrong though. After all, the capacitors on the MM are not nearly big enough for the big HV4.5 motor, which makes it tougher on the batteries, especially with start power on high. Castle only recommends using high start power for very low powered setups such as crawlers, and now I see why. It took about 10 seconds of very violent cogging and not moving to get the esc to 140 degrees, which to me means do not run. Not that im trying to discourage you from trying this. I do think it is important for more than one person to do the same test, for more reliable results, but in the back of my mind, it seems like something could be getting damaged by going through these tests. After all, a steel stack puts a lot more stress on the magnet than a coreless stator, and sometimes the polarity of the weaker magnets is temporarily reversed as the sensorless controller sends a pulse to find the position of the rotor, which doesn't sound good to me.

I noticed that the MM ESC got much warmer than it usually does running the 5700 or the 540 8s. I think I'll just stick to the 540 8s for now, or put the entire HV Maxx system back in the Rustler....ha!

Anyways, I can definitely confirm your results Speedy (though I didn't have the brake problem).