10T FLAT LINER V Brushless Motor

[fiat124]

At the moment i am using a D5 10T FLAT LINER wich i use in my 1/10 and 1/12 cars

http://www.kyosho.com/import/import_gif/d5.gif

Which Brushless Motor and ESC Do i need to buy to mach the power of the D5 10T?

[schenck77]

to get the power of a 10t brushed motor you will probably want a 5.5turn brushless. A 5.5t is suppose to be like a 9t brushed but a 6.5 will give you a little less power then what you already have.

[GSMnow]

Keep in mind though that brushless motors have a fatter torque curve. What that means is you can gear it higher and still have more torque at the wheels. Since they are more efficient as well, you will get longer run time for a given performance. Going with a 6.5 and gearing it to go the same top speed will probably result in a little less torque at stall, but harder pull through the midrange. The 5.5 geared for the same top speed would have about the same stall torque but pull much harder in the midrange.

These are general estimates because the internal resistance of a brushless motor is generally much lower so they can run more current for a given rpm/voltage combination where the turns determines the rpm it will turn for a given voltage without load. So a 5.5 will run about the same no load rpm as an 11 turn brushed (assuming Novak etc sensored ) but when you load it, the brushless will hold higher rpm for a given load. That translates into alot more power at speed. Hot racing brush motors are less than 50% efficient, brushless motors are typically over 85%. You have your choice of more power or a longer run, or some of each.

With sensorless motors, the conversion is a little tougher. Most of the (non roar legal) sensorless motors don't have any lamination stack so they pack in a bunch more wire making the internal resistance even lower. peak RPM may be a bit less without load, but they make even more torque and hold rpm even stronger still. Sensorless motors are all rated by KV and you rarely find the number of turns listed. The length of the can/rotor/windings and the strength of the rotor magnet and the air gap will greatly change the KV (rpm at 1 volt) for a given number of turns. So one companies 10 turn may rev higher than another's 8 turn. Use the KV and gear it for the speed you need to hit at the operating voltage. With the current motor tech you will have more torque than you need just about anywhere.

I have now had a chance to race against a few Novak and LRP sensored systems. They are a good dividing point between the brush motors and the sensorless. Think brush motor on steroids. My Mamba Max 5700 KV system rpm wise is only about the equivolent of a 13 turn brush, but it runs so much torque, you can gear it up and it runs with 9 to 10 turn hot mad motors. It has so much torque that you really need to train your trigger finger to not spin the tires. You need to roll the power on as the car accelerates. Unless you have super traction, you can't just yank the trigger. Even at speed, it can spin tires or pull a wheelie. Think Nitro power, but with less lag and a fatter torque curve.

I have mixed feelings. The sensored stuff is "easier" to step into a drive since it runs like a stronger brush motor without the maintenance problems. My brother and his friend both have SS5800 systems (one bonded, one sintered upgraded) now and they love them. My Mamba Max 5700 will out power them at any speed, but it takes much more patience on the trigger to use that power. Heads up I can win except when I spin. And we also ran a very similar car with a 10T brush motor. It could go a tick faster on top end, but it didn't have near the midrange torque, the run time was 1/2 on the same battery, and it was burning hot and needs brushes after about 6 runs. The brushless systems were all just a bit warm and need no service other than cleaning off the dirt and oiling the bearings.