Help needed with Flair SE5A Covering and Engine

[LWilco]

Hi, I am currently building an SE5A model from a kit that i was given a few years ago and i have got to the point where i need to cover it and install the radio and engine. I will have no problem with the installing but i have no idea what engine to use or what covering to put on it. The guide tells me it should weigh around 6lbs (2.7kg) has a 51" wingspan and suggests a .35-.45 2 stroke engine or a .40-.60 4 stroke engine. I would however like to use a diesel engine in it so an alternative diesel suggestion would be appreciated. The guide suggests that a suitable covering would be antique Polykote or antique Solartex but then goes on to mention a polytex :confused:
N.B. I am 18 and this is the first time i have ever made or seen an RC model aeroplane, I have made a balsa Swordfish powered by an elastic band so i only need help with engine choice and covering please.
Thank you very much for your time.
Laurence.

[dnkehl]

Go to the engine clinic and ask about the diesel motor.The covering I can't help you with. I scratch build all my stuff with foam. Are you getting into RC? Do you have a transmitter and reciever? If you are just starting out this is not a beginner plane.

[Taylorcraft]

LWilco,

First of all, welcome to the forum!

Like dnkehl says, this is not a beginner plane, so I hope you have someone experienced RC pilot to help you fly it until you learn "the tricks" yourself.

When covering your SE5A, it wouldn't look right in anything else than some fabric-based covering. Solartex is great stuff, the olive drab and similiar colors should be perfect for this model. Just remember to apply a thin coating of Balsaloc on the bare wood where the covering should be attached, when ironing down the covering on top of Balsaloc it will stay there "for ever". :)

You should preferably cover all parts (wings, fueslage, stab, elevator, fin and rudder) before attaching them permanently to eachother, this will make the job much easier for you and also give a nicer result. When covering parts, I prefer to start at the bottom and work my way up, (IE when covering the fuselage, start at the bottom, then do the sides and finally the top) making an overlap approx. 6mm (1/4") wide where the pieces meet. This ensures that the seams doesn't come undone with time. Putting the seams at natural corners will make them less visible.

Another of the "secrets" of using Solartex is to stretch the fabric while applying it, it will stretch approx. 10-13% with heat and a good tug. This will ensure that you can cover complex structures such as wingtips without wrinkles. Just start at the middle and iron down like narrow bands, stretching the fabric as you go. Also read the instruction leaflet included with the covering and you'll understand what I mean. The temperature of the covering iron should be approx. 150-160 degrees C, maybe a tad over 170 degrees C (up to 350 degrees F) if you use a Hot Sock on the covering iron. This is highly recommended, since it preserves both the covering itself and your covering iron.

Solartex will accept other layers of Solartex on top of it, along with paints like Solarlac. Consult your local hobby shop for availability. It is naturally fuel proof, unless you use petrol or model diesel fuel...

Take your time and get it right the first time. Then you don't have to get frustrated and waste time and covering.

Finally: If you need more info, the Master Himself of iron-on coverings, Faye Stilley has written a few books on the subject, can be ordered via Airage in the US.

You can also get some info here:
http://www.monokote.com/monoinst1.html
http://www.solarfilm.co.uk/downloads/SOLARFILM%20PAGE%201.pdf
http://www.solarfilm.co.uk/downloads/SOLARFILM%20PAGE%202.pdf

And, if you have more questions, feel free to ask them here. We're here for you! (And PLEASE let us see pictures of your plane!)

Brg

Taylorcraft
_____________________________________
Given enough power even a brick will fly.
But the lighter the brick, the better it flies!